gianluca212 Posted May 16, 2016 Share Posted May 16, 2016 Hi all, I'm Gianluca from Italy and I drive a 2002 Ford Fiesta 1.4 Zetec 80hp. 4 days ago I experienced, for the second time (first time was 5 years ago, throttle body replaced), the EAC FAIL error with all the consequences. I checked the throttle body and it's dead.. I mean, the butterfly (in italian "farfalla") doesn't opens when I press the throttle, so the car doesn't accelerate. Now, my throttle body's part numer is 2S6U-DC and on eBay I found dozens of second hand parts (new costs 489 euros, about 350 pounds) that are identical to mine but the majority of these have the last two letters different than mine. Eg. 2S6U-FA, 26SU-CC and excetera. But I read in a website that the throttle body that doesn't match exactly the part number won't work. So mine is 2S6U-DC. If I replace it with a 2S6U-FA (which is absolutely the same, even the engine code [FXJA]) the car won't work. And, worst of all, I read that the 2S6U-DC units ARE ALL DEFECTIVE. Is that true? Please tell me that is not! Thanks in advance. Greetings from Italy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russ Posted May 16, 2016 Share Posted May 16, 2016 I'm assuming you mean you checked the throttle body while the engine was running? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gianluca212 Posted May 16, 2016 Author Share Posted May 16, 2016 Absolutely, the engine was running and the throttle body was dead even when the gas was fully opened. This situation stress' me. Tomorrow I'll try to disassemble the body in order to clean it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gianluca212 Posted May 17, 2016 Author Share Posted May 17, 2016 So, this is what I discovered today. The throttle body's mechanism is functional: I tested it with a 12v battery and the body just opens fine. So I assume that a sensor, or something else, in the black plastic body is gone. The PCM doesn't recognise the throttle body and this generates the EAC FAIL error. So, the only thing to do is replace it. Now I'm looking for a spare part but they are quite rare to find. So, wish me good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gianluca212 Posted May 17, 2016 Author Share Posted May 17, 2016 I found a replacement but the part number doesn't exactly match and in fact the problem persists. Tomorrow I'll throw the throttle body back to the owner, hoping he'll refound me. God I'm exausted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gianluca212 Posted May 18, 2016 Author Share Posted May 18, 2016 This is incredible. Got the money and the original throttle body back, installed and... it works. I'm going to a car electrician this afternoon in order to know what is going on in this damn car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gianluca212 Posted May 20, 2016 Author Share Posted May 20, 2016 Morning fellas. I've got some bad news for me and for whom has a Fiesta 1.4 Duratec Zetec 59kW, 80HP up to 2003. PCM is defective and cause the EAC Fail error. Throttle body may be also defective, so go to a Ford dealer and do a check of the PCM and all wires. There is a contact on the PCM board that sometimes fail and causes the error. Here it is a bullettin by Ford: http://www.fordstownerssa.co.za/forums/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=131 Some people that solved the problem: http://www.fordforums.com/f527/eac-fail-2003-fiesta-ghia-1-4-a-159988/index2.html There is an article in italian that talks about the defective PCM: http://put.edidomus.it/auto/mondoauto/attualita/pdf/QRT0703_DIFETTOMESE.pdf Now the car is running fine but when the error will come back I'll bring the car to a Ford dealer and I'll replace the damn PCM. A second hand spare part is worth about 50-60 pounds (70€ ca.) and obviously needs to be compatible to your vehicle (ask someone who knows this things before buying). Hope this will help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victor jones Posted May 31, 2016 Share Posted May 31, 2016 hi i have a 2003 1.4 tdci and when i bough it in newcastle it had been sitting in a car dealers yard for who knows how long. i drove it back to edinburgh picked up my freind and on the motorway i got the EAC FAIL the steering went stiff and i pulled up on the hard sholder. turned ignition off restarted car and off i went. that was ayear ago and never had a problem again. i read that if the the battery runs down and then the car is diven to recharge the battery fully the pcm will reset it's self. once the reset happens you will get the EAC FAIL restart the car and hope it never happens again. i am am not 100% if this is true but maybe be the battery needs a full charge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gianluca212 Posted August 9, 2016 Author Share Posted August 9, 2016 Three months have passed since last failure. Now the car is running just fine, maybe the problem was an oxyded connector. Who knows... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gianluca212 Posted August 23, 2016 Author Share Posted August 23, 2016 Well, EAC FAIL came back three hours ago. Tomorrow I'll superclean all connectors involved, I hope it's a wiring problem. Anyway, I'll sell the car very soon, I's tired of that !Removed! error Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tdci-Peter Posted August 24, 2016 Share Posted August 24, 2016 On 20/05/2016 at 9:55 AM, gianluca212 said: PCM is defective and cause the EAC Fail error. Throttle body may be also defective, I do not know if this is relevant, but there was a case here of a throttle body failure linked to a pcm failure: (Though it was a Focus) Sometimes the pcm can be repaired, there are placed in the UK offering to do it, any in Italy? But recheck the wiring & throttle body 1st. The sensor(s) can usually be checked with a multimeter, if they are just potentiometers (variable resistors). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gianluca212 Posted August 24, 2016 Author Share Posted August 24, 2016 The EAC Fail, that came back yesterday afternoon, disappeared when I turned the engine off. Today the car ran just fine. This morning I cleaned the throttle body's connector with contact cleaner and a sort of toothbrush (I don't know how it's called in english that thing). I also cleaned the H bridge connector that was kinda dirty: as you can see form the photo below, I found some greasy stuff on the connectors. I managed to clean male and female part of the connector. And, finally, I took off the PCM's wiring cover, and inside I found some dirt, probably due to the water infiltration. This is a goddamn mistery, I hope I finally solved the problem. Anyway I'm gonna change car in the next year. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kernul Posted October 25, 2016 Share Posted October 25, 2016 Something really strange is happening with my Ford Fiesta 2002 (1.4 petrol). It starts fine, but if I drive it around for more than 10 minutes and turn it off, it won't start again and flashes EAC FAIL message. All I have to do is sit in the car and wait 10-15 min and then it starts again. It seems like it needs time to get its breath to start again... it can't be throttle body or a central wiring fault, right? Any idea what to do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tdci-Peter Posted October 25, 2016 Share Posted October 25, 2016 1 hour ago, kernul said: it can't be throttle body or a central wiring fault, Hi, From what you say it sounds like it is temperature sensitive. Electrical bad connections can easily be temperature sensitive, due to expansion. Mechanical faults like a sticky butterfly valve, can also be temperature sensitive.The throttle body itself is probably in a fairly warm location, up on the engine. So it could be that. Either a fault inside it, or its connector, or just possibly in the wiring. The throttle body is just a motorised valve, driven by a simple little electric motor, with a couple of pots (variable resistors) that sense the position of the valve. The exact DTCs might help to locate it, most diagnostic scanners should read them. A basic U480 is under £10, these days. If you can reach it, remove the connector, clean with alcohol (eg meths) or contact cleaner, and replace. See if it makes any difference. Peter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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