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2005 Ford Focus ''Reduced Acceleration''


Banty123
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Hello everyone, I'm hoping somebody can help me with a problem that I am having with my car. The car is a 2005 Ford Focus, 1.6 petrol which I purchased last December. 

In the last two weeks a warning message saying Engine Systems Fault and reduced acceleration comes on sometimes when I'm driving. In addition to the warning message all the warning lights will come on like the ABS, Fuel, seat belt and battery light. Also the speedometer will not work while the warning lights are on. Normally the warning lights will go away after 3 to 5 minutes of driving but the reduced acceleration warning stays on. I should also mention that the reduced acceleration warning does not come on every time I drive, if I had to estimate I would say it comes on in about 1/3 of journeys I make which are usually short distance town driving. The acceleration is reduced and I'm not sure how to explain it but when I go up a gear e.g. from 2nd to 3rd or 3rd to 4th their is a strange thing happening, like its not accelerating at all. 

When I research this issue it says it could be a faulty instrument cluster or some problem in the gear box, could anyone give me their best guess at what the issue is?
I’ll attach a picture of the speedometer in case it could help somebody identify the problem. http://imgur.com/1ixvmny 

 

Thanks in advance.

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classic signs of a dash cluster fault you'll need to get it looked at to say for sure but all of a sudden 10 yr old focuses are throwing cluster faults ive seen so many recently its ridiculous

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Yes I was nearly sure that was the problem just wanted confirmation from someone else, I'll be getting it looked at today or tomorrow and I'll update this thread when I find out. Thanks for the reply Artscot.

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I agree with Arthur, looks like IC, throws up all sorts of peculiar errors. The "all warning lights" is a classic.

A new IC is very expensive, and a 2nd hand one may not be a good investment (& it needs programming).

Check out eBay for people offering to repair ICs with a warranty. About £80 to £100 plus your postage.

I have uploaded a pdf about a repair I did to my IC.

See:

http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=38633

Peter.

 

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I have read your guide when searching before I posted, it's very detailed but I wouldnt be able to carry out a job like that, I'd mess it up :sad: I brought it to a mechanic today and he told me he'll have a look at it on Friday. 

Would a regular mechanic be able to fix the problem or does it take a specialist? I was quoted €120 + postage to repair it by a different company but I would be without the car for a couple of days which isn't ideal this week so I'm hoping to get it repaired locally if possible.

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I think an auto electrician or similar specialist would be a better bet than a regular garage mechanic.

The 60 ohms bus test (in my pdf) is very simple, and is part of the standard Ford workshop procedure. If it fails this test then the fix should be relatively easy, but if it passes this test, then some more complex internal fault in the IC, or just possibly in another module, is indicated.

The full list of DTCs stored in the car will help, though they can still be rather confusing when bus problems prevent the modules from communicating properly.

Hope this resolves quickly without too much pain!

Peter.

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Just to update this thread in case anybody has the same issue and comes upon sees this. I brought it to an auto electrician and said there's nothing he can do so I decided I would remove it and send it off to a specialist to be repaired. 

I successfully took out the cluster the night before I was going to send it and I left it plugged out. I plugged the cluster back in the next day before I was going to send it and none of the warning lights or warning messages appeared so I decided not to send it to the specialist. It has been 10 days since I put it back in and the issue has not returned thankfully.

If there is a change in situation I will update the thread again. 

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The most likely place for the faulty solder joints is right on the connector, and un-plugging it will have fixed the bad connections, at least for a while.

I suspect it will happen again at some time, but at least you know what to do now!

Good news for the present:smile:

Thanks for the feedback

Peter.

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