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Quote for timing belt change (100BHP, 1.6)


briscaF1
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Hi,

This relates to an earlier post regarding timing belt intervals etc on 1.6 100BHP Focus Mk 2.5.

Ford dealer has quoted £460 for timing belt+water pump+crank bolt

For parts. I guess water pump is ~£60 and timing belt kit is about £80 then maybe £20 for coolant....so that's some markup for half a days' work ?

Without water pump, it's £360.

Does this sound horrendous? I guess there will be some kind of guarantee with a main dealer doing the work....?

Cheers,

D

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24 minutes ago, briscaF1 said:

Hi,

This relates to an earlier post regarding timing belt intervals etc on 1.6 100BHP Focus Mk 2.5.

Ford dealer has quoted £460 for timing belt+water pump+crank bolt

For parts. I guess water pump is ~£60 and timing belt kit is about £80 then maybe £20 for coolant....so that's some markup for half a days' work ?

Without water pump, it's £360.

Does this sound horrendous? I guess there will be some kind of guarantee with a main dealer doing the work....?

Cheers,

D

they must wear gold plated gloves to do the job wow. i might try myself if my hands dont let me down to much before hand no pun intended lol

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parts are usually £170 then labour at £35_45 an hour so for a dealer its about right

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half a days work?? more like 3 hrs or so. so if you break it all down thats about £ 86 an hour before vat, thats about the right labour rate for a ford dealer with genuine ford parts fitted. etc. that quoted price should also include aux belts as they have to be cut off and new fitted as they are streatchy belts

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Well steep for the £/hr, I thought.

The other option I have is that a friend of mine can do them. I hear the crank bolt is a pain but he has an electric torque gun jobbie but not sure about a locking kit for the cams. He reckons its better to do them with tippex anyway ;)

At an independent garage, should I expect the labour cost to halve?

Cheers,

D

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dont let him loose on it if he says use tippex. or you wont have an engine that works , doesnt work that way when the crank is not keyed.

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Exactly as Ian says, you cannot do the job correctly by the old tippex method.

I have the correct tools for the job, but on the last belt job a few days ago (1.6 L 100 BHP) I had a go at marking each pulley up and trying to do the job quicker.

IT DOES NOT WORK.

The problem is that, as Ian says, the crank pulley is not keyed to the crank. When you are heaving on the crank bolt to get the correct tightness, the pulley moves and you cannot get it to the position it was in before you removed it.

If anyone has a way of replacing the crank pulley in precisely the same position please let me know.

ScaniaPBman.

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independent garage will no doubt be lower labour rate as they will have lower running costs, and will source parts from there local motor factor.

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