ZetecShearer1987 Posted June 22, 2016 Share Posted June 22, 2016 I need some more advice, seem to be running into brick wall here, the car once again feels flat and with no power. Please watch this video and let me know if everything sounds ok the injectors sound ok but there is another noise you can here like a low whiring noise. The cabin inside is vibrating and I've not had any power and I couldn't hear the turbo whistle, normally I can but when the car feels like this I don't. im running out of things to check now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artscot79 Posted June 22, 2016 Share Posted June 22, 2016 doesn't sound too healthy to be honest I can only just hear the noise you describe sounds low down in the engine so its not overly clear I'm assuming its a diesel by the noise if its a petrol you've got issues in sure I heard a knock from the bottom of the engine hard to tell from a video Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZetecShearer1987 Posted June 22, 2016 Author Share Posted June 22, 2016 It's a 1.6 ecoboost petrol not a diesel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZetecShearer1987 Posted June 22, 2016 Author Share Posted June 22, 2016 Sometimes the car runs a smooth as anything pulls well etc and other times it's like this no power, rough idle, possible engine knock. its running on v power and has been for 2000 miles recent oil change with she'll helix ultra. New spark plugs. You name it it's been looked at. help me please anyone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexp999 Posted June 22, 2016 Share Posted June 22, 2016 Sounds like normal ecoboost high pressure injector noise to me. Can't hear anything alarming, noise on the video might just be the belts going round, I can't tell. So I'm assuming there are no fault codes logged, so it is not limp mode that's causing the power loss? I'm thinking maybe a boost leak or sticky turbo actuator maybe? I can't think of anything else which would cause power loss without an error code, other than an induction issue. What does it sound like when you rev it up? Is the turbo spooling and then re-circulating okay when you lift off? What sort of vibration are you feeling? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artscot79 Posted June 22, 2016 Share Posted June 22, 2016 even the mk2 was more refined and quiet than that that cant be a normal engine noise surely it sounds like a diesel im afraid its clearly not running right at all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexp999 Posted June 22, 2016 Share Posted June 22, 2016 4 minutes ago, artscot79 said: even the mk2 was more refined and quiet than that that cant be a normal engine noise surely it sounds like a diesel im afraid its clearly not running right at all It is supposed to sound like that. Ecoboost engines have high pressure injectors. Mine sounds like a diesel from the front. That's why there is so much NVH insulation on the modern Fords, and then they put a symposer in on the STs instead. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZetecShearer1987 Posted June 22, 2016 Author Share Posted June 22, 2016 I'll do a video of the car revving up in a bit. the car vibrates in the cabin like its struggling to tick over I can feel it more though the pedals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexp999 Posted June 22, 2016 Share Posted June 22, 2016 Not just "auto choke" being a bit optimistic with getting revs as low as possible? (Mine shudders a bit when stationary) Or does it only vibrate when the power is down? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZetecShearer1987 Posted June 22, 2016 Author Share Posted June 22, 2016 Only hobbles at idle sometimes, but when it does the power is down to Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexp999 Posted June 22, 2016 Share Posted June 22, 2016 Have you got a bluetooth OBD reader, or some way of logging boost/intake manifold pressures when it is down on power? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZetecShearer1987 Posted June 22, 2016 Author Share Posted June 22, 2016 I've not no. as you look at the engine the left hand side there is a low whiring noise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexp999 Posted June 22, 2016 Share Posted June 22, 2016 The alternator, water pump, etc. all make a whirring noise as they are belt driven. It's difficult to tell if the noise in your video is abnormal. Have you been to a Ford dealer with it? They can often pull more diagnostic data than standard equipment. Might be possible to have a data logger hooked up so it can see what's happening when it looses power. Have you found any way to make it do it or is it random? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZetecShearer1987 Posted June 22, 2016 Author Share Posted June 22, 2016 Completely random, was dog rough this afternoon. Then tonight the car felt a lot better on way home from work, pulled well and I could here the turbo whistle. i have a feeling it's the alternator, went to a specialist last week who thought after a test there was a possible alternator issue but couldn't pin point if it was the alternator or the smart charge of something linked to it. Ford had had it before that and said everything was OK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZetecShearer1987 Posted June 23, 2016 Author Share Posted June 23, 2016 This was recorded this morning. The car was horribly rough and the cabin was vibrating like the engine was going to stall. As you can see and hear the whiring noise gets worse when the car is struggling and the voltage from the alternator to the battery was stuck around 11.9v at idle even when revving the car. Also the car feels so flat when its like this, no whoosh from the engine. when the car runs normal you get an engine whooosh which the air mixture and blow off. There is also no power when you put your foot down either feels awful to drive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biff55 Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 11.9v at tick-over aint right , a healthy alternator should kick out a good 13v + with engine running. borrow a decent multi meter (ie a fluke ) and check voltage properly without relying on the on-board display. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artscot79 Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 I hate to say it but it will need to go to fords you'll need to explain it all to them its an ecoboost so uses variable cam timing if this is faulty you'll get engine issues with all the live data it'll need to be thoroughly looked through the voltage is an issue but doesn't mean alternator smart charge or battery it can be a sensor and since the ecu uses the same sensors to gather info it would effect engine running as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon84 Posted June 24, 2016 Share Posted June 24, 2016 On 22 June 2016 at 9:52 PM, alexp999 said: Have you got a bluetooth OBD reader, or some way of logging boost/intake manifold pressures when it is down on power? Sorry to Hijack, are these any good? (seen plenty on eBay for a less than £10, and can you clear codes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexp999 Posted June 24, 2016 Share Posted June 24, 2016 21 minutes ago, Jon84 said: Sorry to Hijack, are these any good? (seen plenty on eBay for a less than £10, and can you clear codes? It's ok for things like torque pro app. But I can get more info from a modified elm and forscan. Still not a patch on the info IDS and FDRS can give you. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZetecShearer1987 Posted June 25, 2016 Author Share Posted June 25, 2016 I have finally had the issue found and is being fixed on Tuesday, it's the alternator. had a local specialist check it and he found only 7v was coming from the back of the alternator into the bcm. so this was the reason the car has been running crap and he also said the battery wasn't being charged either. ive got warranty cover so should be a free fix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iantt Posted June 25, 2016 Share Posted June 25, 2016 lets hope he meant pcm and not bcm! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexp999 Posted June 25, 2016 Share Posted June 25, 2016 I wonder why it would cause the engine to run rough without error codes though? Surely battery is providing 12v so the engines system can function? Or does the engines electrics run directly off the alternator and not filter through the battery? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iantt Posted June 25, 2016 Share Posted June 25, 2016 he certainly has got a problem somewhere, im no electronics expert but alot of lin bus operate at anthing from 3v upwards so 7v may or maynot be correct operating voltage. the pcm is the master lin and alternator is slave lin if there was less than 12v then for sure there would be lots of dtcs showing up, first to have a wobbler(technical term ) would be abs module from my experience. alot of the electrical systems run through a dc to dc convertor to give a steady voltage while alternator voltage varies from 12.2 to 15.2v Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZetecShearer1987 Posted June 25, 2016 Author Share Posted June 25, 2016 I may have misheard, he could have said pcm. They reckon they know what it is anyway so it's a relief that it will get sorted and no more hassle with trying to find out what it is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iantt Posted June 28, 2016 Share Posted June 28, 2016 any update on the poor running / charging issue now the alternator has been replaced? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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