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Is this normal, idle tick over


ZetecShearer1987
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I need some more advice, seem to be running into brick wall here, the car once again feels flat and with no power. 

Please watch this video and let me know if everything sounds ok

the injectors sound ok but there is another noise you can here like a low whiring noise. 

The cabin inside is vibrating and I've not had any power and I couldn't hear the turbo whistle, normally I can but when the car feels like this I don't.

im running out of things to check now.

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doesn't sound too healthy to be honest I can only just hear the noise you describe sounds low down in the engine so its not overly clear I'm assuming its a diesel by the noise if its a petrol you've got issues in sure I heard a knock from the bottom of the engine hard to tell from a video

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It's a 1.6 ecoboost petrol not a diesel 

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Sometimes the car runs a smooth as anything pulls well etc and other times it's like this no power, rough idle, possible engine knock.

its running on v power and has been for 2000 miles recent oil change with she'll helix ultra. New spark plugs. You name it it's been looked at.

 

help me please anyone

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Sounds like normal ecoboost high pressure injector noise to me. Can't hear anything alarming, noise on the video might just be the belts going round, I can't tell.

So I'm assuming there are no fault codes logged, so it is not limp mode that's causing the power loss?

I'm thinking maybe a boost leak or sticky turbo actuator maybe? I can't think of anything else which would cause power loss without an error code, other than an induction issue.

What does it sound like when you rev it up? Is the turbo spooling and then re-circulating okay when you lift off?

What sort of vibration are you feeling?

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even the mk2 was more refined and quiet than that that cant be a normal engine noise surely it sounds like a diesel im afraid its clearly not running right at all

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4 minutes ago, artscot79 said:

even the mk2 was more refined and quiet than that that cant be a normal engine noise surely it sounds like a diesel im afraid its clearly not running right at all

It is supposed to sound like that.

Ecoboost engines have high pressure injectors. Mine sounds like a diesel from the front.

That's why there is so much NVH insulation on the modern Fords, and then they put a symposer in on the STs instead.

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I'll do a video of the car revving up in a bit.

the car vibrates in the cabin like its struggling to tick over I can feel it more though the pedals.

 

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Not just "auto choke" being a bit optimistic with getting revs as low as possible? (Mine shudders a bit when stationary)

Or does it only vibrate when the power is down?

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Only hobbles at idle sometimes, but when it does the power is down to

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Have you got a bluetooth OBD reader, or some way of logging boost/intake manifold pressures when it is down on power?

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I've not no.

as you look at the engine the left hand side there is a low whiring noise. 

 

 

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The alternator, water pump, etc. all make a whirring noise as they are belt driven. It's difficult to tell if the noise in your video is abnormal.

Have you been to a Ford dealer with it? They can often pull more diagnostic data than standard equipment.

Might be possible to have a data logger hooked up so it can see what's happening when it looses power.

Have you found any way to make it do it or is it random?

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Completely random, was dog rough this afternoon. Then tonight the car felt a lot better on way home from work, pulled well and I could here the turbo whistle.

i have a feeling it's the alternator, went to a specialist last week who thought after a test there was a possible alternator issue but couldn't pin point if it was the alternator or the smart charge of something linked to it. 

 

Ford had had it before that and said everything was OK

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This was recorded this morning.

 

The car was horribly rough and the cabin was vibrating like the engine was going to stall.

 

As you can see and hear the whiring noise gets worse when the car is struggling and the voltage from the alternator to the battery was stuck around 11.9v at idle even when revving the car. Also the car feels so flat when its like this, no whoosh from the engine. when the car runs normal you get an engine whooosh which the air mixture and blow off.

 

There is also no power when you put your foot down either feels awful to drive

 

 

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11.9v at tick-over aint right , a healthy alternator should kick out a good 13v + with engine running.

borrow a decent multi meter (ie a fluke ) and check voltage properly without relying on the on-board display.

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I hate to say it but it will need to go to fords you'll need to explain it all to them its an ecoboost so uses variable cam timing if this is faulty you'll get engine issues with all the live data it'll need to be thoroughly looked through the voltage is an issue but doesn't mean alternator smart charge or battery it can be a sensor and since the ecu uses the same sensors to gather info it would effect engine running as well

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On 22 June 2016 at 9:52 PM, alexp999 said:

Have you got a bluetooth OBD reader, or some way of logging boost/intake manifold pressures when it is down on power?

Sorry to Hijack, are these any good? (seen plenty on eBay for a less than £10, and can you clear codes?

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21 minutes ago, Jon84 said:

Sorry to Hijack, are these any good? (seen plenty on eBay for a less than £10, and can you clear codes?

It's ok for things like torque pro app. But I can get more info from a modified elm and forscan.

Still not a patch on the info IDS and FDRS can give you.

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I have finally had the issue found and is being fixed on Tuesday, it's the alternator.

had a local specialist check it and he found only 7v was coming from the back of the alternator into the bcm.

 

so this was the reason the car has been running crap and he also said the battery wasn't being charged either.

 

ive got warranty cover so should be a free fix 

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lets hope he meant pcm and not bcm!

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I wonder why it would cause the engine to run rough without error codes though?

Surely battery is providing 12v so the engines system can function? Or does the engines electrics run directly off the alternator and not filter through the battery?

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he certainly has got a problem somewhere, im no electronics expert but alot of lin bus operate at anthing from 3v upwards so 7v may or maynot be correct operating voltage. the pcm is the master lin and alternator is slave lin

if there was less than 12v then for sure there would be lots of dtcs showing up, first to have a wobbler(technical term ) would be abs module from my experience.

alot of the electrical systems run through a dc to dc convertor to give a steady voltage while alternator voltage varies from 12.2 to 15.2v

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I may have misheard, he could have said pcm. They reckon they know what it is anyway so it's a relief that it will get sorted and no more hassle with trying to find out what it is

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any update on the poor running / charging  issue now the alternator has been replaced?

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