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Known rust problems on mk2 Focus front wheel arches


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All repaired - looking sweet again!

:)

yes looking nice Moe, back to how it was when it was new.That said, I would have also gone for the "Stonechip" coating whilst it was in the paint shop prior to applying the top coat finish. But now you have the mudflaps on just see how it goes on.

I applied a single coat of Hammerite under seal with added waxoyl six months back [because I had an un used tin of the stuff in the garage. And I've just applied another thicker coat on top of it on Saturday. Because I thought sod it I'm not spending any extra cash on it, nor I'm I over coating it with undercoat and top coat. The coat I applied six months ago has held up very well, just one little dink out of it down to the sill paint [but un marked] Must admit the major damaged that went down to the metal was that bottom underside of the front wings and the leading front edge of the sills, where they butt up to the front wings. And fitting the front mudflaps appears to have sorted that problem out. I'll revisit it in a year and see how its fairing. And as I'm not over coating it with the top coat [not seen] its not a big job applying another coat [ plenty left in the tin]

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So shouldn't Ford be retro-fitting this to everyone's Focus? Forgive my numptiness and all that :lol:

apparently not, when I asked two Ford garages about "the fix" as Honest John put it in his review of the MK2. Both denied any knowledge of it.Obviously it was not seen as a safety fix, or a component fix, so it must have been deemed to be an upgrade [

at owners expense I presume] :rolleyes:

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apparently not, when I asked two Ford garages about "the fix" as Honest John put it in his review of the MK2. Both denied any knowledge of it.Obviously it was not seen as a safety fix, or a component fix, so it must have been deemed to be an upgrade [

at owners expense I presume] :rolleyes:

Does ETIS have any outstanding recalls on your particular car (i.e. the washer jets for petrol et al)? Seems a little outrageous to me! Has anyone else got this 'fix' as well, or is it quite hard to come by? And are Ford asking silly money?

I'd be tempted to question it with Ford head office to be honest!

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Does ETIS have any outstanding recalls on your particular car (i.e. the washer jets for petrol et al)? Seems a little outrageous to me! Has anyone else got this 'fix' as well, or is it quite hard to come by? And are Ford asking silly money?

I'd be tempted to question it with Ford head office to be honest!

"Outstanding Field service Actions

No Campaign Message(s) found"

So there's the answer. One of the Ford garages I asked about it was the main dealer I bought it from prior to I picked it up. Like I say as far as Ford it's a none issue. Yes I'm sure they would retro fit at customer expense. With the four bits needed [2x wing 2 x sill] plus fixings your looking at just over £100 in parts + fitting

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"Outstanding Field Service Actions

No Campaign Message(s) found"

So there's the answer. One of the Ford garages I asked about it was the main dealer I bought it from prior to I picked it up. Like I say as far as Ford it's a none issue. Yes I'm sure they would retro fit at customer expense. With the four bits needed [2x wing 2 x sill] plus fixings your looking at just over £100 in parts + fitting

That's a bit naughty in my personal opinion. It seems slightly contrary to me that some models received the protection and others didn't - almost like Ford recognised the issue but are not acknowledging it! Poor effort.

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That's a bit naughty in my personal opinion. It seems slightly contrary to me that some models received the protection and others didn't - almost like Ford recognised the issue but are not acknowledging it! Poor effort.

Totally agree mate, but that's how it works. I suppose that's the risk you take buying the first couple of builds of a new model. But it's not rocket science is it, road grit being fired at the underside of the sills........Anyhow sunny morning here, so whacked another coat of underseal on the sills, five minutes masking tape, five minutes applying seal, couple of minutes cleaning brush....sorted :)

Ps: nice wheels mate where they on the motor when you bought it ? what have you got again ?

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Thanks! Yes, they were on there when I bought it. It's a 2007 MKII 1.8 TDCi Titanium, but with pretty much all option packs, including the touch screen satnav, heated leather etc - it was a Ford demonstrator unit!

The wheels are Ford 18/225/40 7-spokes; anthracite with a diamond cut rim, manufactured by Ronal (who make arguably some of the best alloys in the world). Annoyingly though, these are scuffed and a repair estimate for diamond cut alloys is enough to make your eyes water.

So I am happy to have scuffs and a £470 fatter wallet ... !

Glad you've got yours sealed again - hopefully it will do the trick. Annoying that Ford paint is now quite thin and weak. I added mud-flaps to mine on top of the sill protection, simply because I was fed up of spraying dirt :)

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Silverfox, thanks to your picture of your wheel, I put the photo on my phone, took it out, and found I seem to have the same fix!

Should I trust they have fixed it or should I check for rust?

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Silverfox, thanks to your picture of your wheel, I put the photo on my phone, took it out, and found I seem to have the same fix!

Should I trust they have fixed it or should I check for rust?

Still have a check - it could have been put on afterwards, i.e., over a repair/rust. It's unlikely, but it would give you piece of mind. I would also consider the fitting of mudflaps, depending of course, on how long you intend to keep the car etc. That photo was before I bought the car - it's now got the flaps on it. It looks quite smart on my car, but that's mainly because the grey trims offset Sea Grey nicely imo!

img0010pj.jpg

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Yeah my car came with the same mudflaps, but I am looking to change them to the rally flap types, so its always had them, I will have to try and wait for the time and the dry weather to take it apart...

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I fitted mine over the weekend. Cost me £48 for the 4.

Looks much nicer in my opinion, and practical too (although not quite as important to fit them on mine as I have the 2006 model which have the plastic trims along the sills)

Thanks for the heads up on this catch. I wouldn't have done this if I hadn't seen this thread ;) although the missus is not best pleased with me spending another £48! :lol:

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I fitted mine over the weekend. Cost me £48 for the 4.

Looks much nicer in my opinion, and practical too (although not quite as important to fit them on mine as I have the 2006 model which have the plastic trims along the sills)

Thanks for the heads up on this catch. I wouldn't have done this if I hadn't seen this thread ;) although the missus is not best pleased with me spending another £48! :lol:

Women what are they like ;)..........to be honest mine doesn't mind what I spend on the car [within reason]

Yes your motor is post "the fix" mentioned in the Honest John review, but that said adding the mudflaps can only make it better regards grit being thrown up. Besides any remedial work undertaken by a body shop on rusting, that is prevented by the mudflaps, would cost hundreds of pounds, so just tell her that........... :rolleyes:

Glad to be of assistance mate.

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  • 6 months later...

Hi all

Thank you so much for this thread and the advise, I will be getting the mud flaps fitted and looking in to the skirts too

Love my Focus and would like to not lose it to rust

Suz

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  • 2 months later...

Well worth it Suz, even if you just opt for the flaps.

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  • 1 year later...

Hi just stumbled upon this searching for this issue and am horrified to find it such a common problem, yet when I went down the ford dealership and contronted them they said i was crazy! It this an easy fix? I need to do it myself. I also have a little rust on the rear wheel arch where the bumber meets the arch. Im disgusted with ford but love my focus. I hope I can get this done for a reasonable price, my cars also sea grey, seeing that I think ill be getting the flaps too.

I just noticed this threads dead! Maybe if i bring it back to life?!

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Easy to do DIY fix once you realise there is that problem with the early Mk2 builds [2005 possibly early 2006 registered motors]

Here we are over two years on from when I did the fix, now I did give it another coat of underseal a year on [10 minute job, after you have masked of the top edge with decorators masking tape, to ensure you have a nice straight edge finish] That way it just built up the thickness of the underseal coat meaning it withstands impact better from stones being fired up on to it by the tyres.

So a time proven fix costing little money. Think on the important bit is to make sure you have killed the rust prior to coating it with the underseal or what ever you decide on using as the protective coating.

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If you dont want to lose it to rust then in addition remove the rear wheel arch liners and get the metal coated in underseal then get some thin rubber tube slice it down the middle on one side and feed it over the arch liner where it touches the metal around the arch this stops the soakin wet carpet stuff siting against the metal and rotting it

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Is killing the rust as simple as getting some wet and dry and rust kill paint? The rear im going to get done by a body shop as i simply dont have the expertise to key in the paint, the wheel arches i will do myself if its as simple as this. I removed a load of wet dirt yesterday from the rear of the front wing. fun times!

Thank you so much for the replies, this thread even though old it may be, was a fantastic help and glad (in some respects anyway) to find out im not alone with this.

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All u need is hammeritmd kurust and the wet and dry curust will turn the rust back to solid metal fords are the worst galvanised cars i had a ten year old punto that was galvanised and had no rust

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Guessing you was a little bit drunk there ^^

So.

- Wet and dry

- Hammerite Kurust

- 2 coats of Hammerite

Then fit mud guards?

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Nah nightshift had 11 hours sleep in the last 3 days. Wet and dry the area then apply the kurust and allow half an hour to dry it will turn from white to black prime then paint.

Theres various methods to doing this if youre going to laquer the area its best to do it before the top coats fully dry

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Xenoous,

I used Hammeright Kurust, and all I will say to you is this, do not be tempted to rush the job. Neutralisation of the rust is the most important part of the process. Everything else is reliant on that part of the process being done correctly.

Read and follow to the letter the instructions written on the tin. Manufactures do much research into application of their products, and nobody knows it better than them. Total satisfaction is their aim, because if it fails to do what it says on the tin, you are less likely to trust any of their products ever again, and hence less likely to support their brands in the future.

If it says : Leave 24 hours after application prior to applying under or top coats, then do as it says.

On a side note, I've just retired and as the wife is still working, I've taken over the cooking duties. The wife says she is amazed at how I've taken to it and how good my cooking is..........

Like the theme of this thread, cooking like most things in life, it's all about ingredients, timings and temperatures. And once again recipe book instructions and manufactures product preparation instructions are the result of many hours of testing to come up with the best results for the job in hand.........ignore at you peril.

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Haha thank you Catch & artscot. Nice comparison there ^^ I shall get the kurust and follow everything step by step. I want to save my wallet not watch money fly away. I was gutted when a bodyshop quoted me £1000 and I will do anything to get out of paying anything near that amount.

I'll upload pictures later of both front arches and the slight bubbling on the rear, see what you think.

On a (kind of) sidenot, the comments from your wife did make me chuckle!

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