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Rusty Suspension


HeadShoT2009
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 Hiya, long time since I've been on here. 

 I need some serious advice, I had my 2001 Ford Focus Zetec of the road for around a year and a half, but got it up and running again a couple of years ago and has been running fine until the other week when the front drivers side coil spring broke. I finally had time this weekend so went out yesterday and got a set for coil springs, a coil spring compressor and when I got home put it on axle stands and soaked it in WD40. However this doesn't seem to have helped as when I went to do it this morning I have had serious issues and I'm now stuck not knowing how to proceed. I eventually got the nuts to move by using a friends plumbers torch to heat the nuts and break there rust seal to the surface but as soon as I tried to undo the ball joints I ended up stripping the inner(were you use the hex key to stop it from spinning).

 I know I'm now going to need to replace the track rod end and the roll bar linkage, but I have no idea how to proceed to get them off in the first place, as the locking nut for the track rod end is a complete mess with rust as well? I haven't even tried to undo the main bolt yet that holds the strut into the hub. The only saving grace is the top mounts for the strut are completely rust free. Can somebody please help me, I have no idea what to do now, I've never seen a car this bad and I'm doing my head in as I cannot afford to just scrap it.

 Thanks in advance for any help.

Car 1.jpg

Car 2.jpg

Car 3.jpg

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2 hours ago, HeadShoT2009 said:

locking nut for the track rod end is a complete mess with rust as well?

I know what it is like, seized threads are a nightmare. WD40 is almost useless (as is any "penetrating spray") against a sealed up, rusted thread. It helps once the nut/bolt starts to move, but not much initially.

Unfortunately there is no one magic cure: Special gripping tools, heavy duty, close tolerance sockets & spanners, impact drivers, knowing how to use blow torches & cooling sprays, angle grinders, even oxy-acetylene cutting stuff. A decent, small, local garage would be the best bet, they should have this sort of kit. Even if they can just do some of the undoing & loosening, then you can do the re-fitting & fiddly bits.

Persistence can pay. Use a good socket/spanner with the longest possible extension handle. A long handle (or tee bar) converts your effort into torque with the minimum of side force. Apply a reasonable amount of force (you will have to learn to judge the limit before nuts round, or things break, it is experience), then tap firmly (but not violently!) with a hammer while keeping up the force. And be prepared to keep at it. I have spent an hour or more trying to loosen one bolt before.

Sorry if that has not made your day, but it is the best I have to offer, I am afraid.

Peter.

 

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Are you replacing the track rod ends anyway?

as you don't need to remove them to get the strut out. 

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 I was following the haynes manual as it's been some time since last time I done it, which instructs you to disconnect the track rod end aswell, which is why I now need to replace it as the ball joint seal/gaiter is messed up as in my frustration with striping the hex key in the middle I thought it was a good idea to try and use vice grips to stop is spinning but just split the gaiter:rolleyes:.

 Sorry I didn't get back yesterday, but I was ill most the day(never drink when your in a bad mood).

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2 hours ago, HeadShoT2009 said:

 I was following the haynes manual as it's been some time since last time I done it, which instructs you to disconnect the track rod end aswell, which is why I now need to replace it as the ball joint seal/gaiter is messed up as in my frustration with striping the hex key in the middle I thought it was a good idea to try and use vice grips to stop is spinning but just split the gaiter:rolleyes:.

 Sorry I didn't get back yesterday, but I was ill most the day(never drink when your in a bad mood).

Sometimes the Haynes manual can go a few extra steps that are not really required but can make the task a little easier so I suppose if your following it you keep yourself right also. 

Anytime I came across stuff like this I tried everything but always ended up with pulling out the grinder. I would try to slacken the track rod on there steering arm part (the alignment nut) first and then just cut the nut off with a thin disc on the grinder and use a punch to top it out of the hub. After that its only a matter of unscrewing it of the steering arm and sticking on a new track rod with a new nut.

I know what your thinking but sometimes you have to go with the flow lol! To prevent this sort of thing I always the underside of my focus with underseal and the suspension, then every time I do a service I always wd40 over the bolts and nuts to keep them from getting sized. This have saved me a lot of hassle over the years and might not work for all but works for me.

 

Hope you get all sorted ok

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Get a small jnr hacksaw and cut down the side of the nut cos that track rod end is knackered anyways, its time consuming but        i find its the easiest way to do it if you haven't got access to an angle grinder

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as mentioned, either a hacksaw or get hold of a nut splitter or grinder. try putting a jack under the track rod end and put some pressure on it, then heat that nut red hot - every chance it will come off. 

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 I may try getting a nut splitter to get the anti roll bar linkage and track rod end off.  I might try heating the locking nut on the track rod end and see if that will budge, but don't want to knacker the steering rack in the process, going to cost enough anyway.

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You're no where near the rack for removing a track rod end, the is a track rod in between them. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

 Sorry it's been a while, but been busy with work(luckily I've got a car that I can borrow) so haven't had time to try, til today.

On 7/15/2016 at 5:45 AM, stef123 said:

You're no where near the rack for removing a track rod end, the is a track rod in between them.

I was under the impression that the steering rack and track rod end were a complete unit, so if you damaged the track rods then the steering rack was also done for?

 Anyway I've got the track rod end off but I went slightly too deep with the grinder(first time using an angle grinder that needs precision), but the track rod end that came off seems to go on and off fine, so do you think that a new track rod end and lock nut will go on fine?

Track Rod(01).jpg

Track Rod(02).jpg

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Ideally, you should replace the inner tie rod end ( the bit that screws onto the threaded end of the steering rack) but can require special tools to get them off. Looking at the threaded end that you have nicked with grinder I wouldn't worry too much. Just as long as the new track rod end is a good fit and not sloppy then just put a bit of thread lock on when you assemble it and make sure the lock nut is up tight. 

Oh the joys of owning a car!

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4 hours ago, HeadShoT2009 said:

I went slightly too deep with the grinder

If the damage does not extend below the thread root ( the bottom of the thread valleys), there will be no loss of strength.

If stiff in the new fitting, run a die down it, or use a fine needle file to gently remove any burrs.

Not sure if these were zinc plated, looking at my Focus steering & suspension, I would say not. But put a good coat of a rust inhibiting coating all over it, any way.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

 My track rod ends and anti roll bar linkages arrived yesterday(were suppose to be here Friday so I could do it over the weekend, but DHL decided to ship them to the wrong depo, even after arriving at the correct one in the first place:wallbash:), but the track rod ends do not have the lock nuts, anybody know where the best place is to get them?

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  • 5 weeks later...

 I want to thank everyone for the help. I got nuts/lock nuts from a place in Cambridge called  Mackays of Cambridge. The car has been tracked, but have discovered a new problem.

 

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