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Why can I not find the procedure in my manual for replacing the track rods ?


Fastlife91
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They were only replaced in December by some guy I know, now they need replacing already !

 

I am a novice atm when it comes to cars but I wish to tackle this job myself as I want to learn, I have a repair manual and access to a friends garage of tools. However upon looking in my car repair manual I cannot find the repair procedure to replace the track rods !  it gives  a very brief and not so helpful detail how to replace track rod ends but I cannot see the procedure for replacing the track r0ods themselves !

 

are they under a different name or something ?

 

thanks

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You only replace the track rod ends. Simple easy job once you know how to get the nuts off. Problem comes with the Allen bolt hole on top when they are rusty never holds the ball joint to undo the nut. Nut splitter or cut the bolt off with a hacksaw or grinder is the easiest way to get them off.

It's rare for the whole track rod to need replacing.

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On ‎13‎/‎07‎/‎2016 at 9:23 AM, simcor said:

You only replace the track rod ends. Simple easy job once you know how to get the nuts off. Problem comes with the Allen bolt hole on top when they are rusty never holds the ball joint to undo the nut. Nut splitter or cut the bolt off with a hacksaw or grinder is the easiest way to get them off.

It's rare for the whole track rod to need replacing.

It has been to 2 different garages , both of whom have said the tie rods and tie rod ends need replacing, I am !Removed! off because they were only replaced in December.

 

So how can  I find the procedure to replace the tie rods themselves ?

 

 

Also it does not state what the specified torque for the track rod ends are, it just says to specify to the specified torque but does not say what the specified torque is . where can I find this information ?

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Outer tie rod or outer track rod ends, inner tie rod or inner track rod.

Can't say I have ever needed to replace both inner and outer track rods on any car I have ever owned, only ever needed to replace outer track rod ends.

http://www.focushacks.com/mod/Inner_Tie_Rod_Replacement

From a site called focushacks, no pictures though but gives an idea how difficult the job is.

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On ‎16‎/‎07‎/‎2016 at 0:10 AM, simcor said:

Outer tie rod or outer track rod ends, inner tie rod or inner track rod.

Can't say I have ever needed to replace both inner and outer track rods on any car I have ever owned, only ever needed to replace outer track rod ends.

http://www.focushacks.com/mod/Inner_Tie_Rod_Replacement

From a site called focushacks, no pictures though but gives an idea how difficult the job is.

Okay, thank you for your help

 

Is it still important to count the number of turns when removing/replacing the track rod ends if I am going to take it straight to a garage 3 miles away right after replacing the parts ? I mean, if I don't count the number of turns it takes to remove the T.R. E  and I get the tracking done,  could the tracking still be out if I did not count the number of turns to remove the track end or is it only necessary to count the turns as a temporary measure to get you to he garage to get the tracking done ?

 

 

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Hasn't this already been answered in your 'other' forum posts?

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23 minutes ago, Fastlife91 said:

Okay, thank you for your help

 

Is it still important to count the number of turns when removing/replacing the track rod ends if I am going to take it straight to a garage 3 miles away right after replacing the parts ? I mean, if I don't count the number of turns it takes to remove the T.R. E  and I get the tracking done,  could the tracking still be out if I did not count the number of turns to remove the track end or is it only necessary to count the turns as a temporary measure to get you to he garage to get the tracking done ?

 

 

It still needs to be roughly right, so yes count (or preferably measure) the TRE.

It's hardly difficult to do it anyway, not really sure why you'd want to give the garage unnecessary work.  Plus after a large adjustment, they recommend you go back after about a week to have it 'fine tuned' so it's in your interest to get it as close as you can.

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13 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

It still needs to be roughly right, so yes count (or preferably measure) the TRE.

It's hardly difficult to do it anyway, not really sure why you'd want to give the garage unnecessary work.  Plus after a large adjustment, they recommend you go back after about a week to have it 'fine tuned' so it's in your interest to get it as close as you can.

Thanks, please answer each question using the number sequence as follows, it might be a hassle to you but will be a big help to me if you do and I may be able to sleep better tonight without the stress of it all

1. So if I for some reason miscount the number of turns when removing/replacing the T.R.E.'s , is it possible or not that the tracking could still be out after getting it tracked ?  or is counting the turns just a temporary precaution to get you to the garage to have it tracked ?

2. Why in many tutorials does it say to measure the  old TRE'S ?  does it matter as long as the new pair are the same size as one another ?

3. do you recommend laser tracking ( got that last time )  or tracking by the garage using a computer ?

 (think I did have more questions regarding this but whatever they may have been have now slipped my mind )

 

much appreciated if you decide to help me

 

Regards - your brother

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1 - When removing the TRE, you only need to back off the locking nut a very small amount - This means the track road end will go back in a similar position and will just require a little nip up on the lock nut. 

2 - They advise to measure the TREs because different brands can and do vary in size. Thus would be the only complication to question number one that i've answered already. By shortening or lengthening the TR/TRE you are altering the amount of toe out or toe in. So by taking a measurement you can get the length close enough to be good enough until you get it in for alignment. 

3 - standard 'laser' tracking is fine and cheaper. The fancy computer or '4 wheel alignment' as some call it will do an equally good job but you'll pay more for it, more can be adjusted using that kind of equipment but usually isn't included in the standard price. 

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1 - Yes, if it needs a large adjustment (so if you get it slightly wrong by accident) the tracking can still be slightly out after it's been adjusted.  The less adjustment that needs to be made, the more accurate it will be.

2 - I've already answered in the other thread, unless you have bought exactly the same brand of TRE, most aftermarket ones are slightly different sizes around the ball joint, so need to be measured instead of just counted.

3 - With tracking it depends on the person doing it...unfortunately the computers and lasers are only as good as the technicians!  I've had laser alignment done several times by idiots that can't get it right.  Have only had computer alignment done once but that was spot on.

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3 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

1 - Yes, if it needs a large adjustment (so if you get it slightly wrong by accident) the tracking can still be slightly out after it's been adjusted.  The less adjustment that needs to be made, the more accurate it will be.

2 - I've already answered in the other thread, unless you have bought exactly the same brand of TRE, most aftermarket ones are slightly different sizes around the ball joint, so need to be measured instead of just counted.

3 - With tracking it depends on the person doing it...unfortunately the computers and lasers are only as good as the technicians!  I've had laser alignment done several times by idiots that can't get it right.  Have only had computer alignment done once but that was spot on.

The track rods and track rod ends were replaced in December. I got the tracking done right after. since then my steering wheel has had a pull to the left, even took it back to tracker who re-tested it and said the tracking was fine .

How do I know when the parts were replaced in December that they were not fitted incorrectly ( that maybe he did not count the turns ) ?  if so would it still be wrong if when I replace it this time if I count the same number of turns he did last time if he did it wrong ?

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Sounds like whoever did the tracking can't do it properly, even the second time, see point number 3 above.

Yes you're right, if it's wrong already then counting the threads will still leave it wrong, however if it was that badly wrong you wouldn't be able to drive it - I got one really wrong once (by counting the turns instead of measuring!) and the car was basically uncontrollable, when I got the garage the mechanic was amazed I'd driven it there without crashing...so it must be fairly close on yours currently.

Have you checked for a brake binding to cause the pull?  Does the steering wheel sit straight on a straight road or does it slightly one way?  Is there any excess edge wear on the front tyres?

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On ‎17‎/‎07‎/‎2016 at 7:57 PM, Russ said:

Hasn't this already been answered in your 'other' forum posts?

Nope !

 

If it has then please be my guest and guide me to the answers.  lol

 

 

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have you not finished this job yet lol. 

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1 hour ago, Fastlife91 said:

Nope !

 

If it has then please be my guest and guide me to the answers.  lol

 

umpteen people have gave you the same answer, rather than ignoring the advice why not take it to a garage and have done with it!

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