forscan injector test

[ajzetecs]

Yesterday i ran live date on the injectors 

cylinder 1- 1.1

cylinder 2- 0.6

cylinder 3- 1.1

cylinder 4- 0.7

based on these figure something is not right, can these figure be caused by a dodgy fuel filter or just injectors itself, not to worried as have warranty cover but not sure if they will pay out full wack

[Tdci-Peter]

3 hours ago, ajzetecs said:

based on these figure something is not right, can these figure be caused by a dodgy fuel filter or just injectors itself

There was a seriously bad batch of injectors for all 1.8TDCIs in 2008, may extend into 2009. I think they had code numbers ending in 3. If you have these, get them done under warranty most definitely!

See:

PS: What was the name of the PID for those readings, or was it a test? I was looking for that sort of info myself recently.

If it was cylinder balance, mine read the same value for all 4

 

[ajzetecs]

On 9/10/2016 at 1:10 AM, Tdci-Peter said:

There was a seriously bad batch of injectors for all 1.8TDCIs in 2008, may extend into 2009. I think they had code numbers ending in 3. If you have these, get them done under warranty most definitely!

See:

PS: What was the name of the PID for those readings, or was it a test? I was looking for that sort of info myself recently.

If it was cylinder balance, mine read the same value for all 4

 

Was through forscan, livedate then dashboard, really sick of the noisy 1,8 tdci and the whole injector scandal, currently have RAC warranty but not to confident will pay out full amount if all 4 need changing.

[Tdci-Peter]

37 minutes ago, ajzetecs said:

really sick of the noisy 1,8 tdci and the whole injector scandal

Sad to hear that.

The injector problem was not even Ford's fault, it looks like Siemens / VDO were to blame, big names in the corporate world.

But it is not certain the you have the faulty ones, have you been able to check the date codes, or do have the critical symptoms. Rough running when fully warmed up seems to be the key one.

Though as they may have lasted 7 years, "faulty" is a relative word. No injector will last forever. There are many causes of injector failure.  Fuel contaminated by water and other liquids. Faulty fuel filter.  Dirt ingress during fuel filter changes. These are all common ones.

I still like the 1.8, ok it can be a bit noisy in lower gears, with a pronounced diesel "tick", but I don't mind that. To me, the roar of a petrol exhaust is just wasted fuel. Hot gas escaping under high pressure doing nothing useful. The tick of a diesel is rapid combustion near top dead centre, that then has a big expansion ratio to do useful work ramming the car forwards. The sound of fuel doing useful work, and I like that!

A euro 4 engine with no DPF has significant advantage. Though, I do agree that a lot of that advantage may be lost if the injectors pack up early.

I think I would:

Double check the injectors. The diagnostics are only a guide. Leak off tests are more specific, also the date code and any real symptoms.

If there is real grounds to change them, investigate how much cover you have. Remember they are 7 years old, maybe halfway though a life even for the best injectors.

If you can find the money, and if it really is needed, change them.

If you have still lost faith & enjoyment in the car, sell it in good working condition.

[ajzetecs]

totally agree like you say could be caused by anything or may not even be the injectors, just bought a ford fuel filter so hopefully its just that, cheap things first is a must, too be honest its not a major problem just something i notice quite easy, the noise and jerking is bearable but the issue is always there and has to be investigated incase becomes a major problem.

[Tdci-Peter]

22 minutes ago, ajzetecs said:

could be caused by anything or may not even be the injectors,

The internet has many benefits, but it has down sides.

Things that go wrong are magnified. Obviously, few folk write in just to say how well their car is running, and how few problems they have had. So sites like this present a distorted view. It is just the nature of the media. It gets to me sometimes, I keep hearing about things, and then thinking, is that happening to me?

If you have some intermittent little power dips, it could be the EGR valve. A simple blanking plate can be used to verifiy if this is a problem. (Note: If the valve is badly faulty, then it will light the EML (warning light), and there will be an error code, but I can blank the EGR on my car without any problems, provided the valve still operates.)

If you can still read the codes on the injectors, that may be worth checking.

Priming the fuel filter on these cars is not easy. It took me two stressful days to get it re-started, four years ago. Did it this year, differently, it started with no problem at all. I intend to make a proper guide to this.

There is usually no tank fuel pump. The main pump will not suck air. Any air on the inlet side will prevent starting. So it needs a priming bulb. The high pressure side is self priming, and is not a problem.

To be able to remove the bulb without letting a load of air in, I fitted a non-return valve before the filter. After changing the filter, I did not bother part filling the housing, but put it on empty. Then:

Partially release the filter outlet pipe (being very careful not to get any dirt whatsoever into the pump side of the filter), undo the filter air vent, and use the priming pump to fill the filter. Once only fuel & no air comes out of the filter outlet port, re-connect it, and pump some more, quite hard. There must be no leaks from the filter. Then try starting.

Once it starts & runs ok (I got a little air in, so it stopped once, then re-started easily after I primed it some more), stop & remove the bulb. By holding the pipes pointing up until the last moment, you can refit the input connector without any air getting in.

The non-return valve I used was the 8mm version of: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291512397207

Forscan is a very powerful tool, but in many cases its results should be treated with some caution, looking for real symptoms, and for trends or changes. It is an aid, not a cure-all!

It can be used while driving, to view data under real conditions. Start recording, ensure the cable and computer are safely located, drive for 5 to 20 minutes over a range of conditions. Stop, stop recording & save the data. (Do not look at the computer while moving!). A run I took is below, showing Fuel rail pressure & turbo boost (MAP). The FRP scale is 28,060 to 14,6660 kPa (1466 Bar). It all looks ok, I can use this as a reference for later comparison if I need.