Mk 2.5 Focus 2.0 TDCi P010L Error

[Quint]

Hi everyone, 

If I drive "normally" and don't rev too high (below 3k RPM), the error does not appear. However, when I step on it and RPM reaches over 3k, the error will be triggered and the code  P010L appears, which points to the MAP sensor. I've tried cleaning it once by spraying carb cleaner on it, but the error just keeps coming back. I've also noticed that there's more black smoke that comes of the exhaust, and at times, the car goes on limp mode. Is it just a MAP sensor replacement, or do you think there is still a fix available for it? If there's anyone who can provide correct ampere rating values to check if the MAP is really a goner or not, I'd really appreciate it. If you also have the exact part number, I would also appreciate it because the local shops, including the dealer(s) do not have the part in stock and I might be able to source from UK and ship to Asia. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you. 

[Tdci-Peter]

19 hours ago, Quint said:

provide correct ampere rating values to check if the MAP is really a goner

The 3 pins are 0v (ground), +5v (reference) & signal.

According to the eBay reference, the signal calibration is 0.95v = 0.1 Bar abs, 4.71v = 2.5 Bar abs

So at 1 Bar (normal atmospheric), the signal is 2.36v

I am making a couple of assumptions here, 1) The eBay data is right, 2) The pressures given are absolute.

For comparison, on my 1.8TDCI, The signal calibration is 0v = 0 Bar abs, 5v = 3.105 Bar abs (=45 PSI abs).

With a 5v supply, a multimeter & a hand pump & pressure gauge, it is quite easy to test one of these sensors.

The eBay ref I used was:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-FOCUS-II-SALOON-2-0-TDCI-FROM-2005-AIR-MANIFOLD-PRESSURE-MAP-SENSOR-FACET-/171818879234?fits=Car+Make%3AFord|Model%3AFocus|Cars+Year%3A2009|Cars+Type%3A2.0+TDCi&hash=item2801340902:g:puIAAOSwNSxVdIny

They claim to ship to most of the world. But in view of the shipping cost & time, it would be wise to test the unit first.

There are many causes of black smoke. Make sure you thoroughly check all the intake hoses & pipes for leaks first.

And I am not sure what the error code actually is, P0105 to P0109 are various MAP errors.

[Quint]

Thanks, Peter. I had it scanned by a shop and it pointed to the same thing, MAP lambda sensor. 

[Quint]

Should voltmeter settings be at 12v?  Should the negative battery terminal be disconnected? 
1. If there is not 5 Volts on the reference circuit, then check for the reference voltage at the PCM connector. If it is present at the PCM connector but not the MAP connector, repair the open in the reference circuit between the PCM and MAP harness connector. If 5 Volt reference is NOT present at the PCM connector, check powers and grounds of PCM and repair/replace as needed. (NOTE: On Chrysler products, a shorted Crank sensor, Vehicle speed sensor or any other sensor that utilizes the 5 Volt reference from the PCM can short out the 5 Volt reference. To fix simply unplug each sensor one at a time until the 5 Volt reference reappears. The last sensor unplugged is the shorted sensor.) 2. If you have a 5 Volt reference at the MAP connector, jumper the 5 volt reference circuit to the signal circuit. Now check the MAP voltage on the scan tool. It should be 4.5 to 5 Volts. If it is, replace MAP sensor. If not, repair open/short in the signal circuit wiring and re-check. 3. If all appears okay, perform a wiggle test. Start engine and manipulate the harness, connector and tap on the MAP sensor. Note any changes in voltage or engine speed. Repair connector, harness, or sensor as needed. 4. If the wiggle test checks out, use a vacuum pump (or just use your lungs) to draw a vacuum on the MAP sensor vacuum port. As you add vacuum the voltage should decrease. With no vacuum, the MAP sensor should read approximately 4.5 volts. If there is no change in MAP sensor reading on the scan tool, replace MAP sensor.

Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/p0107
Copyright OBD-Codes.com

[Tdci-Peter]

4 hours ago, Quint said:

use a vacuum pump (or just use your lungs) to draw a vacuum on the MAP sensor vacuum port. As you add vacuum the voltage should decrease. With no vacuum, the MAP sensor should read approximately 4.5 volts.

That would be for a normally aspirated (eg petrol) engine.

The MAP in a turbo engine has to measure up to 2.5 Bar abs (1.5 bar of boost).

 

[Quint]

Thanks, for validating, Peter. Much appreciated.

[Quint]

The culprit. What to do? I need a new or used airbox / air filter housing. I wonder if I can source from there in any of the used parts dealers? If I seal it, would you recommend rubber, or silicone gasket? A friend that its potentially damaging to a turbo if debris get sucked in. Yikes!

[Tdci-Peter]

On 21/10/2016 at 9:16 PM, Quint said:

If I seal it, would you recommend rubber, or silicone gasket? A friend that its potentially damaging to a turbo if debris get sucked in.

Yeah, anything going in there will go to the turbo. If it gets past that and the intercooler, then inlet valves, exhaust valves and another go at the turbo could follow!

That hole could upset the MAF readings a little, as it will distort the airflow pattern in the duct there. It will still work, just be out of calibration. As the MAP & MAF are compared to each other (rpm, engine displacement & inlet manifold pressure are used to predict air flow), this could generate MAP error codes.

Without seeing the assembly in detail, I can't give a good fix. But I would try tape first, just to see if it cured the problem.

Silicone filler or "liquid gasket" could break up with time, temperature & dirt, and bits could get sucked in. I do not think it needs a fully airtight seal, just enough so the flow profile is not badly distorted, and to keep out dirt.

[Quint]

I actually did try tape and it worked! Got me some duct tape and just covered the hole completely. Voila! Took it out for a test drive, switched to manual, drove it hard over 3k RPM, and the error didn't come back. Even better, no more black smoke due to rich fuel mixture. I hope I didn't bring in too much of dust into the system to  build up the gunk in the turbo. Is this something that I should be worried about? Is there any way of 'cleaning' what has gone into the intake? Or do they just eventually get burnt with all the air? If there's something preventive that I can do just to spare me a potentially expensive turbo fix?

[Tdci-Peter]

2 hours ago, Quint said:

Is there any way of 'cleaning' what has gone into the intake?

I would clean some of the hoses. First, if possible remove the hose from the airbox to the turbo. The turbo compressor itself is unlikely to get a lot of muck on it, it spins too fast. The bearing should be ok as it is pressure lubricated by engine oil. There is usually a tee in the inlet hose that connects to the crankcase breather oil separator. Where this joins, and from there down, is a likely place for muck to collect, as it can mix with oil to make a sticky mess. Wipe round inside the turbo inlet fitting.

If this area is oily or dirty, then it would be worth taking off the hose from turbo to intercooler, to clean that and the fittings it joins to.

Whether it is worth using one of the many magic cleaning potions available, is a matter of choice. One thing to bear in mind is that they don't make any dirt vanish, they just loosen it so it can pass through the engine and turbo, and into the DPF if you have one.

Hopefully it will not be too dirty. There is always some build up of oily gunk in there anyway.

[Quint]

Thanks! I'll have to study especially the turbo clamping first or bring it to some experts, both mechanical and detailers. :-) I don't think I can DIY this.

[Quint]

For the life of me I can't find any used parts back home, so may I ask who are the good ones in UK who have good quality used parts? Any link or help would be much appreciated. The tape tends to wear off after long use, and the error re-appears. 

Thanks in advance, and Happy New Year to all!

[Tdci-Peter]

3 hours ago, Quint said:

UK who have good quality used parts?

I have no knowledge of any particular supplier, all I can go by is published reputations.

One supplier who will ship overseas is:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-FOCUS-C-MAX-DIESEL-AIR-FILTER-BOX-ASSEMBLEY-7M51-9600-BF-2007-2011-/162129284973?fits=Car+Make%3AFord|Model%3AFocus|Cars+Year%3A2009|Plat_Gen%3AMK+II|Cars+Type%3A2.0+TDCi&hash=item25bfa88f6d:g:Fr0AAOSwZ1BXfncX

The search link I followed was:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=air box Ford Focus 2009 MK II 2.0 TDCi&rt=nc&LH_PrefLoc=2&_trksid=p2045573.m1684

It is always more difficult & worrying buying at a distance, with higher postage etc, but sometimes has to be done, I guess.

[Quint]

I actually tried many options and ended up going to the dealer to check whether the airbox or the intake tube was the culprit. We took an airbox from the parts department and compared it to mine only to find out that the gap was actually "normal." Yes, that picture above is a normal gap even in a brand new airbox, so I was stomped. Anyway, so when I got home, I decided to clean the MAF sensor thoroughly. I had electric contact cleaner and liberally sprayed it on the MAF sensor, left it there til it dried up. I also noticed an oil leak under the intake manifold and I thought that it just spilled from the oil cap or the dipstick area. Anyway, I cleaned the oil leak after cleaning the MAF sensor, and when I finished, went for a test drive to see whether it was still going to trigger the same P010L error, smoke really bad as before, and if it was going to go on limp mode. I drove it in manual mode so I could rev it above 3-4.5k RPMs to see if it was going to trigger the error. But there was none. So I figured the MAF sensor cleaning actually did the job. But when I opened the hood, I saw an oil leak in the same place again, so I tried to find it and I cleaned it up again. I put some clean tissue on the spot where the oil leaks were, and started the engine, revved it to 3k, and saw some little black oil spots on it coming from the charger intake hose. Bought a hose today, replaced it, and saw that the old one had a huge gash on it. Weird thing was, it wasn't giving any hissing or whistling sound just like what I saw on youtube. 

Anyway, I have a question. I know its a different topic altogether, but I wonder if anyone knows the torque figures (if any) on these two hose clamp screws that hold the charger intake hose. 

Steps I took: (30 minutes)

1. Removed dust cover.

2. Removed upper hose clamp using a flat screw driver or #6 socket. 

3. Removed right headlight to access lower hose clamp.

4. Removed lower hose clamp using the same tools as #2. 

5.  Removed hose clamp holder using a star screwdriver (don't know what size). 

6. Cleaned both intake and intercooler ends with carb cleaner before installing the new hose.