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Focus engine will not turn off


Sonny5656
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Got a call from my daughter panicking that the engine wouldn't turn off on her 15 reg diesel focus,when i reached her the only way to stop it was to stall it,the start stop button would only work when starting up. So we drove to the nearest ford garage,when I explained what was happening he didn't seem at all surprised he took the car away and returned 15 minutes later and said all fixed, i asked him what was wrong he said it was a software problem that they knew about, and there was no charge, great. wouldn't give me any more information just said cars around a 15 plate were affected.

when we got home i went on the internet and found out that 250,000 cars have been recalled in America for this very same problem,but there is no recall here they are just going to fix the problem when it occurs.

hope this helps.

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No doubt that will be featured on Watchdog soon then. Rather poor attitude from Ford!

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There could well be an outstanding field service action out on it.

So they won't actively recall you, but the next time it is serviced by Ford, they'll apply the update.

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I heard about a similar issue with a guy with an Octavia VRS. His engine stuck on and cruise wouldn't click off at 70mph... it didn't end well for him and now Skoda are under scrutiny.
Skoda advised it was a software update on that model, however that doesn't help matters.



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37 minutes ago, clarkeehull said:

I heard about a similar issue with a guy with an Octavia VRS. His engine stuck on and cruise wouldn't click off at 70mph... it didn't end well for him and now Skoda are under scrutiny.
Skoda advised it was a software update on that model, however that doesn't help matters.



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If it's the same one I read about he went into the back of a lorry at 113mph?

That guy must of just been really really stupid. All the sensors reported the last time brakes were touched were something like 4 minutes before the crash and at the time of impact the throttle pedal was at 78%ish

 

Might be a different guy though

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If it's the same one I read about he went into the back of a lorry at 113mph?
That guy must of just been really really stupid. All the sensors reported the last time brakes were touched were something like 4 minutes before the crash and at the time of impact the throttle pedal was at 78%ish
 
Might be a different guy though


Nah that seems like the chap. Although I didn't hear the outcome of the diagnostics so that throws all sorts into the mix.

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Yeah was an odd one that. All the sensors had data stored up until, and including the impact, but from what VW and independent investigators found, the guy was manually at full throttle when it happened and hadn't attempted to slow down. 

 

i mean come on, if your cruise was genuinely stuck at 113mph you'd just lightly pull handbrake / downshift / neutral / turn the car off and leave in gear. Failing that you'd try and slow yourself using the barriers I'd of thought. 

 

also, may be of interest, he hit the back of a 40 tonne lorry so hard that the woman who drove it, who was on the bunk bed at the time, was thrown into the windscreen and had to be treated for minor injuries. That's one hell of a smash. 

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I'm wondering if mine is doing this occasionally. I'll hit the stop button, and then all of a sudden the dashboard is alive again and the engine hasn't fully stopped.

I'll keep an eye on this now I've seen this topic.

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  • 1 year later...

Hello, I'm new here but should like to add my experiences.

Car is 2014 1.6 TDCI Estate, 30,000 mls. Problems - occasional '1/2' crank when start button pressed. Second press starts engine. Occasional failure to stop engine when button pressed. Display indicates ignition circuit off (ie pixelated with no text). Lights, indicators, a/c, radio not operating. The car can be driven, but the Speedo and tachometer do not work. Steering and brakes seem ok (only drove on driveway). Engine can be stopped by opening drivers door (did not try other doors). If the start button is pressed wth the engine running in this 'limbo' state, the ignition circuit is reinstated and everything operates normally, press again - back to limbo mode! In addition to (and in the same timescale as) this fault, the alarm has started to activate randomly when the car is locked. All door and bonnet switches seem to operate ok according to the dash mimic and the problem persists with the interior scan disabled. Alarm intervals vary between 15 mins and several days.

I too have read about the body control module problems, mainly in the USA and I suspect this may be a related issue. The car is currently with the main Ford dealer - they claim to have no knowledge of body control module problems, software bugs or the need for updates. I'll keep you posted on the outcome.

 

 

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  • 2 years later...

Hi, COcars 54

This sounds like my 14 plate focus at the moment and have had to have the battery replaced! What was the outcome of this please? Thanks

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  • 1 month later...

my car is a 2014 focus titanium 1.6 diesel, 82000 miles.
I’ve had issues with my car of a similar nature.... so 

The car alarm has started going off... as mentioned above can be every 15 mins or can be every 7 days, I disconnected the battery to ensure a good nights sleep. 
I have had a new battery and parasitic testing, the car bonnet switch has since been bridged as this was showing a drain. The diagnostic test  did show ignition sequence activation, possibly due to the drop in battery volt, the technician at the time was not convinced he had fixed the problem. 
 

I thought I was all good as ive had no further issues untill I started the car last night ( about -3 degrees) 

It struggled a little bit but aside from that it was all good until I returned home, the car engine would not turn off. The electronics turned off and the alarm activated as you would expect with a shut down. But the engine did not. 
the start stop button selection button would not disengage and the ignition start stop would not work. It took a couple of attempts to stall it, finally it stopped. 
I restarted the car, it started fine and turned off fine.

After about 30 mins the alarm went off, I disconnected the battery yet again. 
 

I have reconnected the battery this morning abs the car starts abs stops fine so far....,. 

any ideas? 


 


 

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Just now, KRH

my car is a 2014 focus titanium 1.6 diesel, 82000 miles.
I’ve had issues with my car of a similar nature.... so 

The car alarm has started going off... as mentioned above can be every 15 mins or can be every 7 days, I disconnected the battery to ensure a good nights sleep. 
I have had a new battery and parasitic testing, the car bonnet switch has since been bridged as this was showing a drain. The diagnostic test  did show ignition sequence activation, possibly due to the drop in battery volt, the technician at the time was not convinced he had fixed the problem. 
 

I thought I was all good as ive had no further issues untill I started the car last night ( about -3 degrees) 

It struggled a little bit but aside from that it was all good until I returned home, the car engine would not turn off. The electronics turned off and the alarm activated as you would expect with a shut down. But the engine did not. 
the start stop button selection button would not disengage and the ignition start stop would not work. It took a couple of attempts to stall it, finally it stopped. 
I restarted the car, it started fine and turned off fine.

After about 30 mins the alarm went off, I disconnected the battery yet again. 
 

I have reconnected the battery this morning abs the car starts abs stops fine so far....,. 

any ideas? 


 


 

Everything you describe is exactly the issues I had with my 14 plate focus ST. I had to stall my car to switch off the engine!! Was ridiculous! All electronics went off though.

it honestly sounds like the BCM is fried (body control module). And this would probably be down to the known fault of a faulty washer fluid pump and the fluid leaking through the harness and back to the BCM.

mine started off with the car alarm randomly going off throughout the night. Plugged the laptop in to see that the ignition process had kicked in and with the car locked this therefore triggered the alarm.

passengers side, below the glove box right at the back, check your BCM and pop the connectors. I guarantee you will found how mine looked!

see attached:

 

C352649D-FFC4-4902-918A-80C6A18054AA.jpg

DE685989-3523-4A3C-BF65-C1D7DE7344AC.jpg

CBBE0D20-067C-44F1-9A81-12A59EEFAB1D.jpg

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Thank you so much, not to sure how much damage has been done.

Going to clean the plug and pins up and hope for the best, hopefully it’s just corrosion and I’ve caught it early on. 
 

If not it’s going to be expensive ish! 
 

Just to sort the new DPF fault codes.... hopefully i can force regen and take it for a much needed burn out 

 

thanks again 

 

BA7DCF86-5BB9-4757-BE7D-999BC34F2C2B.jpeg

10E90AF6-C2BA-406C-8D80-509EF0C7FFAF.jpeg

057CA5EC-DCF4-4AE4-ABAC-54AEA7AE6934.jpeg

Edited by KRH
Added images abs a longer message due to confirming the fault
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I’ve had exactly the same problem on my 2014 ford st estate. Faulty BCM changed by ford Hartwell at a cost of £647.00 .

The car symptoms started with the alarm randomly going off before the  battery drained . I changed the battery and the car was fine for a couple of days. 

 Then I had an information message that a head light bulb was out . I checked the lights and know bulbs were blown. I then pressed the stop start switch to turn the car off . All the electrics shut down but I couldn’t switch the engine off . I had to stall the car to shut down the engines .

fault codes displayed were 

DTC 26DE unknown

B1026 steering column lock

B10E7 ignition on relay - short circuit to positive 

The car hasn’t only done 44000 miles so I’m disappointed that this has happened and will be writing to ford with a complaint . 

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I have stripped my glove box out with and it’s not going to be a quick fix, 

I’m going to an auto electric garage tomorrow, I’m hoping they can fix it. 
The plug has been fried, we had the module out and cleaned the pins, but the way my luck is at the moment it will end up being both. 
 

I think I’ll write to Ford customer service, see if I get anywhere. There is clearly an issue. 
 

E864266D-D794-4B05-9454-45EBB058D8F0.thumb.jpeg.ea4c500a97b0439668d2e28cdd94c2a1.jpegA7F5A0D9-684F-420F-9A44-EBDA01C8CC62.thumb.jpeg.1d97657ed1adc546f70e7e52cd341810.jpegA89EC90E-31EB-4ED3-BC5C-BE6F3DCB441C.thumb.jpeg.4cdc528a2c82945983a095e0c0ae9a3d.jpeg

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On 2/10/2021 at 3:41 PM, Monks600 said:

Everything you describe is exactly the issues I had with my 14 plate focus ST. I had to stall my car to switch off the engine!! Was ridiculous! All electronics went off though.

it honestly sounds like the BCM is fried (body control module). And this would probably be down to the known fault of a faulty washer fluid pump and the fluid leaking through the harness and back to the BCM.

I have been following this topic with great interest.

There have not been any occurrences of this sort of failure on my cars so far, and I would be prepared to put some effort into protecting my electrics so that it didn't happen to me. When I have been fumbling round down there doing the pollen filter and fitting my Dash Cam it's all been dry but since I am a fair weather fixer this might be just what you would expect.

So, what action can I take to protect myself?

Do I need to carefully fit a sturdy plastic bag over the BCM/fuse box thingy?

Do I need to fit a new washer fluid pump just to be sure it doesn't fail?

Should the washer pipe be re-routed away from above the BCM?

How does the leak gets into the wire bundle running through the harness into the BCM connector?

Any details of what "the known fault of a faulty washer fluid pump" is?

Your advice would be gratefully received.

I must say that I will not be rushing out to my sub-zero garage or driveway to implement your advice straight away but as soon as it warms up a bit, I will be on the job putting in the fix you recommend.

Thanks in anticipation,

ScaniaPBman.

 

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Just now, KRH

I have stripped my glove box out with and it’s not going to be a quick fix, 

I’m going to an auto electric garage tomorrow, I’m hoping they can fix it. 
The plug has been fried, we had the module out and cleaned the pins, but the way my luck is at the moment it will end up being both. 
 

I think I’ll write to Ford customer service, see if I get anywhere. There is clearly an issue. 
 

E864266D-D794-4B05-9454-45EBB058D8F0.thumb.jpeg.ea4c500a97b0439668d2e28cdd94c2a1.jpegA7F5A0D9-684F-420F-9A44-EBDA01C8CC62.thumb.jpeg.1d97657ed1adc546f70e7e52cd341810.jpegA89EC90E-31EB-4ED3-BC5C-BE6F3DCB441C.thumb.jpeg.4cdc528a2c82945983a095e0c0ae9a3d.jpeg

Unfortunately, yours looks a lot worse than mine did. Regardless off cleaning the contacts on the BCM, the internals will be fried. The BCM is pretty much useless at this point.

so all in all, it’s going to be a new BCM and someone will have to replace the connector end on that harness will a new one.

also, to prevent this, you should be looking to replace the washer fluid pump itself and the connector. Through capillary action the fluid travels up the harness and back to the BCM. I believe the harness is the engine wiring harness, I don’t think there’s a separate one that connects to the engine wiring harness for the washer fluid pump.

hope you get this sorted and it doesn’t cost you too much! Was a nightmare and massive in expected bill for me! Wasn’t happy one bit.

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Just now, ScaniaPBman
On 2/10/2021 at 3:41 PM, Monks600 said:

Everything you describe is exactly the issues I had with my 14 plate focus ST. I had to stall my car to switch off the engine!! Was ridiculous! All electronics went off though.

it honestly sounds like the BCM is fried (body control module). And this would probably be down to the known fault of a faulty washer fluid pump and the fluid leaking through the harness and back to the BCM.

I have been following this topic with great interest.

There have not been any occurrences of this sort of failure on my cars so far, and I would be prepared to put some effort into protecting my electrics so that it didn't happen to me. When I have been fumbling round down there doing the pollen filter and fitting my Dash Cam it's all been dry but since I am a fair weather fixer this might be just what you would expect.

So, what action can I take to protect myself?

Do I need to carefully fit a sturdy plastic bag over the BCM/fuse box thingy?

Do I need to fit a new washer fluid pump just to be sure it doesn't fail?

Should the washer pipe be re-routed away from above the BCM?

How does the leak gets into the wire bundle running through the harness into the BCM connector?

Any details of what "the known fault of a faulty washer fluid pump" is?

Your advice would be gratefully received.

I must say that I will not be rushing out to my sub-zero garage or driveway to implement your advice straight away but as soon as it warms up a bit, I will be on the job putting in the fix you recommend.

Thanks in anticipation,

ScaniaPBman.

 

Hey!

id start by checking your connector and confirming whether or not you actually have this issue. If you do, clean the block connector and pins on the BCM. You may have just caught it in the nick of time.

As mentioned above, if you do have this fault, replacing the washer fluid pump and harness connector for the pump is the only way your going to prevent this.

washer fluid travels the entire length of the harness via capillary action. Even a basic drip loop does nothing to help. Once it hits the BCM, you’ll start experiencing lots of random issues with your alarm, wipers, and tail lights.

I spent some time to map the pins to each and every individual component and in the above photos, one of them pins does indeed lead back to the washer pump connector. Another one of the pins next to it controls your ignition relay. The reason your alarm goes off randomly is because the always live pin shorts with the ignition relay pin, this causing the ignition to turn on, therefor setting off your alarm as the car thinks it’s being stolen..

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When I’ve got chance and back at a computer. I’ll do a write up above the whole issue.
Mods, once done could we get the new thread pinned?

the amount of people in the recent weeks with this issue is quite a lot.

thanks!

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Just now, Llimah

I’ve had exactly the same problem on my 2014 ford st estate. Faulty BCM changed by ford Hartwell at a cost of £647.00 .

The car symptoms started with the alarm randomly going off before the  battery drained . I changed the battery and the car was fine for a couple of days. 

 Then I had an information message that a head light bulb was out . I checked the lights and know bulbs were blown. I then pressed the stop start switch to turn the car off . All the electrics shut down but I couldn’t switch the engine off . I had to stall the car to shut down the engines .

fault codes displayed were 

DTC 26DE unknown

B1026 steering column lock

B10E7 ignition on relay - short circuit to positive 

The car hasn’t only done 44000 miles so I’m disappointed that this has happened and will be writing to ford with a complaint . 

See for me, I had all of what you described too. But it took me a while to get the B10E7 code. Seemed to clear itself and then on the off chance I managed to capture it. After lots of research and digging, finally lead me to the BCM. Oh what a fun week that was!

had to disconnect my battery and manually lock all the doors overnight.

best part is, I could have re-flashed the BCM myself but unfortunately you need two original keys to programs the PATS system and then marry them to the BCM. That part requires a lovely ford subscription and IDS. They don’t make it easy do they?

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