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2010 1.6tdci focus 5 days 4 faults


Eddie78
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Thanks for looking for me, Ive got the injector seals now so will have a good root about while I am in there. to be honest the fault the car has doesnt bother me its the lack of customer service that is causing me a pain in the left pod

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well not a great deal to report, not had a great of time to spend on the car but I have replaced injector seals as number 2 was leaking, the dpf low pressure fault was down to the hose been split at the dpf end so that fault is sorted. However I still have the 2 orig faults, I can drive around the faults if I drive real steady until the engine is fully warmed then fault codes dont appear they only seem to flag up when the engine is tepid and I accelerate  upto speed. however another thing I have noticed with the car when starting from cold it fires up first time and idles smooth but doesnt rev cleanly feels like its over fueling when you try to rev it (no big clouds of smoke though) and when driving on a light throttle in lowish 15mph (leaving the works car park) it hunts once warmed up it revs fine and drives fine, I was pulling a trailer with it the other day probs about 800kg and she drove fine plenty of power did a brim tank and the start brim at the finish got 52.7mpg which I thought was quite good.

The cold start feels like a temp sensor reading to cold so over fueling.

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1 hour ago, Eddie78 said:

However I still have the 2 orig faults, I can drive around the faults if I drive real steady until the engine is fully warmed then fault codes dont appear they only seem to flag up when the engine is tepid and I accelerate  upto speed.

"DPF below efficiency", I wonder what that means. The car does not measure smoke, so I guess it means the DP is higher than expected. Could be faulty sensor, perhaps faulty EGTs (exhaust temp. sensors), or too much ash in the DPF.

"O2 out of range during decelleration". Another odd one. With the injectors shut down, the gas should be air (21% O2), and there is not much can change that. Leaking injectors seem unlikely since the mpg is so good. Just leaves an O2 sensor calibration error really. And that may have an effect at other times on performance, maybe limiting the fuelling, or overfuelling, if it reads wrong.

You did say this, about the garage, some time ago:

"the finance company leant on them a little bit, they are replacing the dpf, o2 sensor, and injector seals "

I am guessing the dpf & O2 sensor were not actually replaced?

I would look at the O2 one first, as that could affect the dpf, possibly. I don't see how the dpf can alter the O2 reading when pure air is going through.

A diagnostic system like Forscan can read the values of the DP sensor, O2 sensor, EGT sensors, etc, while driving. If the O2 sensor was giving odd readings with the throttle shut, then it would point fairly clearly to a faulty sensor.

Those mpg figures sound really good, it makes spending a little money on the car worth while. Especially with the price of fuel on the up again.

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The garage didnt do anything other than a forced regen. I did the injector seals knew it wouldnt fix the prob but needed doing anyways as number was leaking,

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Well had a quick poke about and checked the air filter, It was serviced by ford  less than 5k ago they didnt bother to change the air filter by the looks of it, apart from the state of the filter the air box had 4 tab ends and birds wing in it, when the car was static rev'd it was trying to suck the filter into the turbo, put a new filter in and from a cold start the car revs a lot cleaner, yet to drive the car will find out on the way to work if she runs better from cold

 

20170208_105534.jpg

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Well the car drives a lot better still not a 100% but runs alot better from cold no more hunting or surging on light throttle, turbo spools up alot quicker and better and generally the car feels a lot cleaner to drive and if the the mpg on the dash is anything to go by its gone up by 1.2 mpg on a my run to work and back (same roads and driving style.

Dont think it will fix the engine light issue (not cleared the codes yet to see if they will flag up again) but I am chipping away and the car is getting better next step is clean the MAF as it is oily then clean the egr as I am sure it will be clogged I am only doing 1 thing at a time just to see which has the biggest impact.

on the plus side only spent £20 on injector seals and £7 on air filter and the car is a lot better

 

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***** hell, what a state that filter is. 

Sorry to hear about your problems, but sounds like you know what your doing. 

Quite an interesting thread this, glad it's coming good.

You need to show the garage what you done and show them the parts you changed and see if they reimburse you ! 

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Well so far the car is driving better than ever power is more punchy, mpg seems to of increased, and have managed 65miles without engine lights which is a record so far LOL

Before I could get the engine management to flag up within 1 mile of driving always did it in the same circumstances cold start drive less than a mile accelerate up to speed and the light would come on and with a hard static rev the lambda sensor fault would flag up. I did a mix of driving tonight coming home from work had the engine labouring. high reving. accelerating hard etc..... and not one fault code. so looks like its all been caused by the engine been choked by the air filter

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I don't know whether the same applies to the Focus but I used to have a Mondeo TDCi and it was often recommended that after curing a major, longstanding fault or owner change that the main ECU should be reset by disconnecting the battery for 15 mins. The ECU will then relearn all its inputs including those from the (new) driver. Check that you have your radio code before doing this!

Crazy that all this was apparently caused by an air filter that, by the look of it, should have been changed 2 services ago!!

Well done for sorting it and good luck

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5 minutes ago, trailertrash said:

I don't know whether the same applies to the Focus but I used to have a Mondeo TDCi and it was often recommended that after curing a major, longstanding fault or owner change that the main ECU should be reset by disconnecting the battery for 15 mins. The ECU will then relearn all its inputs including those from the (new) driver. Check that you have your radio code before doing this!

Crazy that all this was apparently caused by an air filter that, by the look of it, should have been changed 2 services ago!!

Well done for sorting it and good luck

well its looking promising so far fingers crossed

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On 1/10/2017 at 4:43 PM, Eddie78 said:

Hi Guys n Gals

I have bought a 2010 focus 1.6tdci one owner full service history, I have only owned it for 5 days and have had the engine management light on 4 times now.

Its the same 2 fault codes that get thrown up, clear the codes light goes out etc.... The light has come on in the same circumstances started from cold ran about 5 mins as I accelerate up to speed the light comes on and I think there is a ever so slight exhaust smel through the heater vents

The codes are

P2297- O2Sensor Out of Range During Deceleration Bank1, Sensor1
- Present
P2002- Diesel Particulate filter Efficiency Below Threshold
- Intermittent
 

No mate, dont have any of it! Take it back to where you got it from and DEMAND your money back. Whoever sold this to you knew it was *****d before selling it to you.

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  • 1 month later...

Well done well over a 1000miles now and not one fault code plugged it in this morning a nothing so all good

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