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ForTim

How to take off EGR for cleaning in Mk2 1,8 TDCI

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How do we take off EGR part to clean it in Mk2 1,8 TDCI? I can't figure out how to take off 4th bolt, as on image. Is there some technique or tool?

What's this cable hub on the right? Seems like it's the obstacle for screwdriver. Can it be split or moved aside? How?

 

It seems cleaning should be done from time to time. When I saw YT video "Czysczenie sterownika zaworu EGR // FORD FOCUS MK2 1.8 TDCI 10R", I opted for that, before using some decarb sprays. I would really like to know how it looks inside and whether this kind of cleaning will erase P0490.

 

I tried to see in Haynes, but it didn't help me. It mentions removing wipers and windscreen cowl panel, but seems like it's done for complete EGR removeal.

Sorry for asking in separate topic, but it's not noticed in

 

20170129_EGR bolt.jpg

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It seems the EGR valve on the 1.8 is part of the intake manifold so a much bigger job than the EGR valve clean/replacement on the 1.6.

Seems a rather daft design to be honest but as I have never had a 1.8 I have never done one, quite expensive if it needs replacing, personally I would see about getting it cleaned and if it's faulty see about getting it mapped out.

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11 hours ago, ForTim said:

How do we take off EGR part to clean it in Mk2 1,8 TDCI? I can't figure out how to take off 4th bolt, as on image.

I think you need to remove the plastic panels under the wipers. It is really dead easy (at least after doing it once!), and makes a huge difference to access. . A couple of hints: Remove wipers by pulling the ratchet handle towards the wiper arm, avoiding putting force on the wiper drive mechanism. The clips along the front of the plastic cover are a pig, I flattened out the spikes on one side of all of them so they are still secure but much easier to remove now.

The giant connector is held together by an M6 bolt (10mm a/f socket, if I recall) through the middle. It does make access a bit better, but I left it in place on later removals of the valve.

I managed to use a Torx bit with a couple of extension bars fitted to get at that 4th bolt, there is just about a straight access behind the EGR. The photo shows the tool, I think it also did the back one.

The removable part is not the actual valve, and there is no access into the inlet manifold from there, but you will be able to get at the valve spindle, and see if it moves freely. I had no problems with that on my car. All the problems (3 different ones) were in the actuator unit which you can remove. I have had that off 3 or 4 times now. I had the P0490, and it was the actuator each time.

I did a pdf on my repair, with pics showing inside the actuator, and the linkage: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=38763

The actuator unit can be replaced for a moderate cost (under £100). The Inlet manifold with the built-in valve is a pig of a job.

CAR-EGRE.JPG

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8 hours ago, Tdci-Peter said:

I did a pdf on my repair, with pics showing inside the actuator, and the linkage: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=38763

Thanks. I can try to remove the plastic panels as you did.

You also wrote: "It  may be useful to release the large electrical connector near the EGR, and maybe a hose support clamp behind it, for better access.

I guess it's the one I marked with "?" on image. If I could release that one, they might be no need to remove the panels. I'd use the Torx with extension as you did.

But I tried and didn't see how. That's why I asked "Can it be split or moved aside? How?" Any help?

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2 hours ago, ForTim said:

Can it be split or moved aside? How?"

Yes, it is the "giant connector" I mentioned in the reply, with an M6 bolt through the middle. The bolt head is on the side towards the valve, and undoing it jacks the connector apart. In my photo it is hidden by the arc of loom going to the EGR connector. Getting at that bolt is not easy with the wiper plastic cowl in place though!

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First to say that I opened the EGR, without removing the plastic panels. Key point was to remove the connector, once bolt was unscrewed (thanks Peter!). So i'ts either panels or connector, no need for both. Just Torx with extension.

Just one more thing: to remove the left side of the connector and slide it to the left, I used screwdriver from behind, direction like an arrow on image (but below front cable), between connector hub and support plate. I couldn't loose it from below with my hand.

It wasn't really dirty, just a few black spots.

20170204_connector.jpg

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1 hour ago, ForTim said:

Mine gear doesn't return (when t u r n e d  w i t h  p o i n t  n o s e  p l i e r s), looks like it's broken. I guess that's the real cause of mine P0490.

The quadrant gear return spring is in the actuator section that you have removed. There is a circlip down where the flattened shaft comes out of the top of the actuator (in the photo). Removing this should allow the shaft with the quadrant gear to be removed, to access the return spring. It was a bit fiddly getting that clip out, as I recall, but I have done it.

However, if the spring is broken, and a replacement can not be sourced or improvised, a new actuator may be needed. This is under £100, and no problem to fit. So it is not too disastrous.

Check that the valve spindle moves freely in the valve part still in the manifold, though. But I had no problems with this part. (Note: There is no return spring on the valve part, this should stay where ever it is put.)

CIRCLIP.JPG

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OK, I wanted to split posts in order to make it clear, and Peter replied in the meantime.

I was confused because of this:

On 31. 1. 2017. at 0:50 AM, Tdci-Peter said:

T h e  q u a d r a n t  g e a r  h a s  a  r e t u r n  s p r i n g .  C h e c k  t h i s  is  f i t t e d  a n d  n o t  b r o k e n.  T h e  g e a r  s h o u l d  r e t u r n  to  its  c l o s e d  p o s i t i o n  w h e n  t u r n e d  &  r e l e a s e d .

I mixed that with valve in the manifold that moved freely but without spring, like in video: How to check EGR Valve on a Euro 4 engine in a Ford Focus or Transit Connect

On 31. 1. 2017. at 0:50 AM, Tdci-Peter said:

 S a d l y ,  if  t h e r e  a r e s e r i o u s  p r o b l e m s  h e r e ,  a  n e w  m a n i f o l d  a s s e m b l y  m a y  b e  t h e  o n l y  a n s w e r .  T h i s  a s s e m b l y  l o o k s  l i k e  it  is  p r e s s  f i t t e d  in t h e  m a n i f o l d .

Peter explained that "The quadrant gear return spring is in the actuator section that you have removed" so OK, it's a relief. thank you very much.

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6 minutes ago, ForTim said:

Mine gear doesn't return (when t u r n e d  w i t h  p o i n t  n o s e  p l i e r s or with fingers), it would be broken then.

The end of the return spring is just visible in this photo, wrapped round the edge of the quadrant gear.

CAR-EGR6.JPG

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OK, I think it's clear now.

You may wish to update the PDF on EGR repair, to separate with numbers or sections, to avoid confusion. When I read "T h e  q u a d r a n t  g e a r  h a s  a  r e t u r n  s p r i n g " I didn't realize you are in the next section. And I spent some time thinking first how to split the connector and then how to remove it's left part. It's all important for amateurs.

Is this simple testing method OK? I'm sorry I didn't do it. You seem to test all at once with this. Praca silniczka EGR S-max 1.8TDCi

And you may keep that link in signature, like simcor. THANK YOU Tdci-Peter.

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32 minutes ago, ForTim said:

Is this simple testing method OK? I'm sorry I didn't do it.

I was able to test mine on the workbench with power supplies and multimeters. That gives much more detailed information on which bit is wrong, like is it the electric motor, or the feedback sensor. It is quite difficult to see what is happening when it is connected to a running engine. I could see something odd was going on when it seemed to stop working halfway through, but hard to tell just what was wrong. The valve looked to be moving freely as it responded to changes in pressure as the engine was revved. And it was probably a good enough test to simply say the actuator is faulty, replace it. But not good enough to repair it. I don't like spending cash on a rather annoying bit of kit that has little value to me, especially as I live in a rural area where a little NOx does no significant harm. But I guess that for many people, repair of an electrical item like that actuator would be impractical, and they would just replace it.

I have been meaning to update that PDF for a while now, as I have more photos and extra information since it was written. Apologies if it is a bit confusing in places. It is on my "ought to do" list! The trouble is, quite a lot of stuff is on that list, and the "must do or you'll have hell to pay" list always seems to get in the way!

Example of replacement actuator:http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-MONDEO-1-8-TDCi-EGR-VALVE-2007-ON-O-E-QUALITY-FITS-ALL-MK4-BRAND-NEW-/252458371603

Note that it does not include the manifold, and despite saying EGR valve, this is not true, it is just the actuator. Same for most of the advertised ones.

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