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Focus mk2 suspension + head unit


Jordan99
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Hi guys, just a quick one here.

Can I use suspension off a st170 or st 2 on my 2005 Ford focus 3dr? If not, what would people recommend on how far I should drop mine. Want it to look like nice but still be able to cope with speed bumps. I will be fitting St 17" alloys when I find some! 

Second, are there any head units that I can fit which have USB and ports for a sub? I was thinking a head unit out of a St model...can anyone recommend anything? (PS.my wiring skills are average enough to wire a sound system!) thanks in advance guys! 

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1 hour ago, Jordan99 said:

Hi guys, just a quick one here.

Can I use suspension off a st170 or st 2 on my 2005 Ford focus 3dr? If not, what would people recommend on how far I should drop mine. Want it to look like nice but still be able to cope with speed bumps. I will be fitting St 17" alloys when I find some! 

Second, are there any head units that I can fit which have USB and ports for a sub? I was thinking a head unit out of a St model...can anyone recommend anything? (PS.my wiring skills are average enough to wire a sound system!) thanks in advance guys! 

Hi,

The ST170 is a Mk1.5 focus and basically it's a completely different vehicle. The ST220 is a Mk2 which shared the same chassis as your focus but the springs are different, parts to fit your focus are mk2 and mk2.5 model from 2005-2011

You need a set of Eibach pro lowering spring they drop the car by 35mm available as an optional extra from ford or through eBay.

a Sony factory fitted headunit does offer usb compatability but only when its connected with a specific factory fitted bluetooth module which all requires ford to programme it on computer, the Sony unit doesn't have a usb socket it's on the bluetooth module.

It won't have any RCA outputs for an amplifier to fit a sub neither, your much better off fitting an aftermarket headunit the range of extra options are much better and easier.

Here's some guides to help: 

Guide to Fitting Aftermarket headunit focus Mk2 & Mk2.5 Click Here

Guide To fitting 10" HD Flip Down Monitor Focus Mk2 & Mk2.5 Click Here

Custom 10" Sub enclosure & Amp panel Focus Mk2 & Mk2.5Click Here

Guide Installing Reverse Camera Focus Mk2.5 2008 - 2011Click Here

Guide Fitting Dual Camera DVR System Focus Mk2 & Mk2.5Click Here 

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Six year build thread here same focus as yours just different exterior panels 

 Full list of guides here: 

 

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Hi guys the info on the head unit was great, I've been to Halford today and picked up a jvc for £89! Bargain, got all the wires and a remote adapter for I can use my steering controls. I plan on fitting this tomorrow. 

The suspension, I'm still a little unsure what to do. Can I lower it using springs from ford parts UK, but keep my original shock? Or do I need different shocks? 

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Depends on state of the shocks.. mileage etc.. I dropped my mk2.5 using the ebach shocks that r ford approves but I'd recently replaced the rear shocks n the fronts were in gd condition still. 

But the lowering springs will work with stock shocks though if they r past it u would be better replacing them as well

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I'll take a look at them tomorrow. I've not owned the car long so I'm not sure if they've been replaced at any point. It's done 119000 but from what I've looked at, it all looks in pretty good condition. Do you know how easy it is to change the springs? Is it a job I can do on the driveway with hand tools? 

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3 hours ago, Jordan99 said:

I'll take a look at them tomorrow. I've not owned the car long so I'm not sure if they've been replaced at any point. It's done 119000 but from what I've looked at, it all looks in pretty good condition. Do you know how easy it is to change the springs? Is it a job I can do on the driveway with hand tools? 

The most important tool when changing springs is to use spring compression clamps otherwise the existing spring will expand at a lightening speed when you unbolt it potentially causing serious injury to you or the fenders of the vehicle 

there's a video here shows it well 

 

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Agree 100% with above post. It's a job that can be easily done by a competent home mechanic but you need a decent set of spring compressors. Fronts took longer only cause you need to remove the entire shock assembly. Took me bout 3hr start to finish but i took my time and cleaned everything up while it as apart etc.. 

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thanks for the replies, the video was a great help, i may actually attempt it myself.

however, back to the headunit subject. Its not ***** working for me!

Ive got a jvc double din from Halfords, i got all the wiring from incartec.com (very helpful people). I've connected everything up (seemed really easy) went to test it, no power. nothing at all, have i missed something? ive read and re-read the instructions. also, ive now put the original stereo back in till i find a solution, started the car up, for about 30 seconds the engine management light came on and the needles wouldnt move. but then theyll come on and everything will be fine. have i broken something?  

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Does the harness you've purchased have the ability to swap the red and yellow wires?

Some head units use a different pin out. If you provide the exact model and cable harness you've bought we'll be able to tell youl.

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On 10/02/2017 at 8:33 PM, Jordan99 said:

Hi guys the info on the head unit was great, I've been to Halford today and picked up a jvc for £89! Bargain, got all the wires and a remote adapter for I can use my steering controls. I plan on fitting this tomorrow. 

The suspension, I'm still a little unsure what to do. Can I lower it using springs from ford parts UK, but keep my original shock? Or do I need different shocks? 

A 35mm drop should be fine on standard shocks, speaking from experience I wouldn't go any lower though as it might put extra stress on your existing shocks, coilovers would be a better option if you wanted to do that.

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On 12/02/2017 at 9:14 PM, Micro said:

Does the harness you've purchased have the ability to swap the red and yellow wires?

Some head units use a different pin out. If you provide the exact model and cable harness you've bought we'll be able to tell youl.

I managed to get the stereo working, turn out the car doesn't supply a 12v to the stereo, I had to find one elsewhere. Only thing is I have to turn the unit off manually. Do you know of any wires near the head unit which turns on with the ignition? It's currently connected to my cigarette lighter with is constantly on. Thanks 

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22 hours ago, Commencal24 said:

A 35mm drop should be fine on standard shocks, speaking from experience I wouldn't go any lower though as it might put extra stress on your existing shocks, coilovers would be a better option if you wanted to do that.

Thank you for the info, finally a straight answer haha, I think I'll keep my current shock, I've read that coilovers make for a stiff ride 

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Thank you for the info, finally a straight answer haha, I think I'll keep my current shock, I've read that coilovers make for a stiff ride 


Trust me they do [emoji23] I'd never go for a set again on a car that's used on a daily basis, I went through top mounts every 8 months [emoji15]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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8 hours ago, Jordan99 said:

I managed to get the stereo working, turn out the car doesn't supply a 12v to the stereo, I had to find one elsewhere. Only thing is I have to turn the unit off manually. Do you know of any wires near the head unit which turns on with the ignition? It's currently connected to my cigarette lighter with is constantly on. Thanks 

The car should provide a permanent 12V (if not, check the fuse), and a switched 12v (some more modern cars just have a canbus link, but I think your Ford is probably old enough that it has the 12v accessory sense line).

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Do you have any information on that? It doesn't have a permanent live through the stereo wires...i had to use the live wire from the cigarette lighter to power the stereo. 

 

& sod the coil overs then lol I'll take my chances with springs. 

 

Also, the car has developed an issue with the gauges (mentioned earlier but no one replied) since fitting the head unit, when I start the car for the first 30seconds the needles don't move, with an engine management light on. Once around 30seconds has passed needles move, engine management light goes and everything is fine. Any got any ideas? 

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1 hour ago, Jordan99 said:

Do you have any information on that? It doesn't have a permanent live through the stereo wires...i had to use the live wire from the cigarette lighter to power the stereo. 

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You should see 12v on the battery live pin regardless of your ignition status - it must stay live for some radios to keep their programming. The ignition live should come on when you turn the key. If either of those aren't working then you probably have a fuse issue.

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4 hours ago, Micro said:

You should see 12v on the battery live pin regardless of your ignition status - it must stay live for some radios to keep their programming. The ignition live should come on when you turn the key. If either of those aren't working then you probably have a fuse issue.

Okay thanks, I'll take another look at it at the weekend, do you have any idea why my gauges are doing what they're doing? 

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1 hour ago, Jordan99 said:

Okay thanks, I'll take another look at it at the weekend, do you have any idea why my gauges are doing what they're doing? 

Could be a loose connection at the rear of the Speedo unit,

If it's removed the car won't rev above 2,000rpm.

I reckon most id not all of your problems experienced are due to a wrongly wired headunit patch cable.

try purchasing a patch cable from Connects2 instead because you don't need to source power from a cigarete lighter unit or anything mate should be plug & play,

I wired mine up directly using spade connectors and the Haynes manual and never any Speedo issues but also never needed to source power from elsewhere.

IMG_20141122_122751_zps8a8kdmq1.jpg

IMG_20150328_203140_zpsiqxzsona.jpg

IMG_20150328_203131_zpslc0c7edh.jpg

IMG_20150328_142212_zps1xvvkyqh.jpg

 

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44 minutes ago, Lenny said:

Could be a loose connection at the rear of the Speedo unit,

If it's removed the car won't rev above 2,000rpm.

I reckon most id not all of your problems experienced are due to a wrongly wired headunit patch cable.

try purchasing a patch cable from Connects2 instead because you don't need to source power from a cigarete lighter unit or anything mate should be plug & play,

I wired mine up directly using spade connectors and the Haynes manual and never any Speedo issues but also never needed to source power from elsewhere.

IMG_20141122_122751_zps8a8kdmq1.jpg

IMG_20150328_203140_zpsiqxzsona.jpg

IMG_20150328_203131_zpslc0c7edh.jpg

IMG_20150328_142212_zps1xvvkyqh.jpg

 

I really didn't want to cut up any of the original wires if I could help it. With the speedo issue, will it get worse if left alone? I don't mind waiting that 30seconds before I drive. My dad had a simular issue with his c-max (56). Execpt his would come back on, and the car wouldn't start. 

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18 minutes ago, Jordan99 said:

I really didn't want to cut up any of the original wires if I could help it. With the speedo issue, will it get worse if left alone? I don't mind waiting that 30seconds before I drive. My dad had a simular issue with his c-max (56). Execpt his would come back on, and the car wouldn't start. 

I'm not saying you should cut the loom mate the point I was trying to make is that the loom adaptor you have fitted is most likely wired incorrectly, 

And by you introducing an additional power supply from the 12v socket; it is most likely sending power to cables which shouldn't be getting power in such a way.

which could be the root cause of the Speedo issue aswell.

basically swap out the patch cable with a reliable one from connects2 and see if problems still occour,

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5 minutes ago, Lenny said:

I'm not saying you should cut the loom mate the point I was trying to make is that the loom adaptor you have fitted is most likely wired incorrectly, 

And by you introducing an additional power supply from the 12v socket; it is most likely sending power to cables which shouldn't be getting power in such a way.

which could be the root cause of the Speedo issue aswell.

basically swap out the patch cable with a reliable one from connects2 and see if problems still occour,

Oh okay sorry. That makes sense. Does the patch leads from connect 2 have the steerinh control feature? I got mine from incartec.com. Rang them up and they talked me through it to fit it. 

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By the way, just been reading your post on your focus, very nice work. 

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3 minutes ago, Jordan99 said:

Oh okay sorry. That makes sense. Does the patch leads from connect 2 have the steerinh control feature? I got mine from incartec.com. Rang them up and they talked me through it to fit it. 

The steering stalk loom kit is separate to the Iso adaptor cable, so it won't affect that atall I'll source one on eBay for you to see 

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