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doriangh

Rear speakers not working

18 posts in this topic

Hi there! I just bought a used focus hatchback 2010 that has the navigation multimedia system, but not the one with the touchscreen, just buttons. After leaving the sellers city, 350km later in my home town, I brought in a friend I the back seats, and he immediately notices that the rear Speakers do not make a sound. I didn't notice that when buying it. I contacted the seller and he said it should've worked. I tried resetting the audio/radio settings but to no avail. I didn't yet reset to factory settings.

So what should I do? I'm hoping it's nothing electrical and it's just maybe software. Factory reset and it's working. I've also read that some users have the same problem while cold outside. It's -5C. 

 

Thanks! 

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Are you sure the car even came with rear Speakers from the factory my mates Focus doesn't, just has the speaker grille in the door card. If it does adjust the balance settings. 

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11 minutes ago, Ryan_Tango said:

Are you sure the car even came with rear Speakers from the factory my mates Focus doesn't, just has the speaker grille in the door card. If it does adjust the balance settings. 

To be honest, no. It does have the speaker grille, though. I will and post back

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It can be hard to tell, shining a light through the grille can sometimes help but taking the door card off will be best way to tell but can be a pain, @Lenny might be able to help with the door card removal if you need help since he's probably stripped his car more times than Ford have built them lol.  

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3 hours ago, Ryan_Tango said:

It can be hard to tell, shining a light through the grille can sometimes help but taking the door card off will be best way to tell but can be a pain, @Lenny might be able to help with the door card removal if you need help since he's probably stripped his car more times than Ford have built them lol.  

Before removing the door, could a factory reset do it? And also, could something bad happen if I factory reset it? 

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And I just checked, it does actually have speakers in the back doors. 

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I'm guessing it had to have Speakers in the back since it has the fader option. 

image.jpg

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3 hours ago, doriangh said:

I'm guessing it had to have Speakers in the back since it has the fader option. 

image.jpg

Hi,

Sorry for delayed response I was in work earlier, all focus have front and rear Speakers

What happens when you set the Fader to full Rear? 

I assume you lose all audio? 

Factory reset won't do anything for you if the Fader isint working, 

And before we go further; do you have access to a speaker such as one from another vehicle or from an in house hifi system? 

If you do then this can be used to check the loom at the rear of the headunit to probe the terminals with the speaker cable and this will tell you if the headunit is actually sending audio to the rear; before you go taking door cards off which I can also coach you through as I've stripped the entire focus and fitted a 4,500euro JL audio system across a bank holiday weekend 

IMG_20141016_200047_zpsbb1snprl.jpg

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IMG_20150327_180704_zpsd7epex1y.jpg

IMG_20150327_180704_zpsd7epex1y_edit_147

IMG_20150327_115334_zpsrhrs1o7p.jpg

IMG_20150329_183034_zps9y05u7ox.jpg

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1 hour ago, Lenny said:

Hi,

Sorry for delayed response I was in work earlier, all focus have front and rear Speakers

What happens when you set the Fader to full Rear? 

I assume you lose all audio? 

Factory reset won't do anything for you if the Fader isint working, 

And before we go further; do you have access to a speaker such as one from another vehicle or from an in house hifi system? 

If you do then this can be used to check the loom at the rear of the headunit to probe the terminals with the speaker cable and this will tell you if the headunit is actually sending audio to the rear; before you go taking door cards off which I can also coach you through as I've stripped the entire focus and fitted a 4,500euro JL audio system across a bank holiday weekend 

IMG_20141016_200047_zpsbb1snprl.jpg

IMG_20150616_131244_zpsauluthau.jpg

IMG_20150327_180704_zpsd7epex1y.jpg

IMG_20150327_180704_zpsd7epex1y_edit_147

IMG_20150327_115334_zpsrhrs1o7p.jpg

IMG_20150329_183034_zps9y05u7ox.jpg

Hi! Thanks for the detailed response. When I put the fader to all back, the front ones still play. That's the weird part.

And yes, I do have Speakers to try out, I will open the console, but in the morning. Some hints to go along would be greatly appreciated! 

Thanks! 

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10 hours ago, doriangh said:

Hi! Thanks for the detailed response. When I put the fader to all back, the front ones still play. That's the weird part.

And yes, I do have Speakers to try out, I will open the console, but in the morning. Some hints to go along would be greatly appreciated! 

Thanks! 

I'm off to sleep now as I'm in work tomorrow, I should be online tomorrow evening to advise.

before removing the headunit ensure you have the user manual in the glovebox because it will have a specific "stereo code" written on the first page or within it somewhere because if you unplug the headunit it will then ask for the code.

personally thinking here; since you have located the Fader setting and it's not putting audio to the rear Speakers as it should, instead it's making the front louder, 

I reckon it's the headunit itself which is at fault and nothing to do with the wiring atall. 

but here's the schematics for the wiring at the rear of the headunit;

If you  put a cushion on the gear stick area to prevent scratching and take out the stereo from the dash but dont unplug it.

turn theignition to power it on, then probe the outputs on the top corner of the cable block; they are the speaker outputs to front and rear; 

Quadlocklayout110913owndoc_zps0ggj0lua.j

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18 hours ago, Lenny said:

I'm off to sleep now as I'm in work tomorrow, I should be online tomorrow evening to advise.

before removing the headunit ensure you have the user manual in the glovebox because it will have a specific "stereo code" written on the first page or within it somewhere because if you unplug the headunit it will then ask for the code.

personally thinking here; since you have located the Fader setting and it's not putting audio to the rear Speakers as it should, instead it's making the front louder, 

I reckon it's the headunit itself which is at fault and nothing to do with the wiring atall. 

but here's the schematics for the wiring at the rear of the headunit;

If you  put a cushion on the gear stick area to prevent scratching and take out the stereo from the dash but dont unplug it.

turn theignition to power it on, then probe the outputs on the top corner of the cable block; they are the speaker outputs to front and rear; 

Quadlocklayout110913owndoc_zps0ggj0lua.j

Hello again! I have just opened the head unit, and removed the connector. I've checked the Speakers terminals from the loom, and the center terminals are between 10-14ohms, but the upper and lower one are interrupted. 

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16 hours ago, doriangh said:

Hello again! I have just opened the head unit, and removed the connector. I've checked the Speakers terminals from the loom, and the center terminals are between 10-14ohms, but the upper and lower one are interrupted. 

Hi mate,

Im not too well educated on the multimeter😅 ive used one to calibrate the amplifiers output once but that was following instructions in manual

IMG_20150419_175430_zpss6piqfsv.jpg

IMG_20150419_182307_zpsayz9m7md.jpg

So for my understanding mate; Interrupted would indicate a shorting somewhere correct?

And while we're here; are your rear Windows manual or electric?  

Easier to remove door cards if there electric.

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On 2/18/2017 at 7:15 PM, Lenny said:

Hi mate,

Im not too well educated on the multimeter😅 ive used one to calibrate the amplifiers output once but that was following instructions in manual

IMG_20150419_175430_zpss6piqfsv.jpg

IMG_20150419_182307_zpsayz9m7md.jpg

So for my understanding mate; Interrupted would indicate a shorting somewhere correct?

And while we're here; are your rear Windows manual or electric?  

Easier to remove door cards if there electric.

They are electric. Is there no intermediate way to do it, but to take away the door card? You think there's a real possibility of both breaking at the same time? And isn't there a place under the left doormat where all the cables pass? 

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34 minutes ago, doriangh said:

They are electric. Is there no intermediate way to do it, but to take away the door card? You think there's a real possibility of both breaking at the same time? And isn't there a place under the left doormat where all the cables pass? 

The cables can be accessed under the carpet next to the door sill inside the chassis, but to lift the carpet and get at them you need to take out the rear seat using a TX40 Torx to allow you lift the carpet 
 
IMG_20150327_113108_zps5n89sbvl.jpg
 
IMG_20150327_142711_zpsfq21gquz.jpg
 
Rear Left Speaker Cables:
IMG_20150327_141211_zpsieabl1vi.jpg
 
IMG_20150327_141905_zpsajv2ttiv.jpg
 
Rear Right Speaker Cables:
IMG_20150327_132613_zpssdvvdngj.jpg
 
If it was my focus;
I'd purchase some insulated crimp spade connectors such as these in motorfactors for few pennys👇
 
IMG_20130803_003810_zps0c9ce2da.jpg
 
now working at the rear of the headunit I'd leave 2" inches from the headunit connector and snip the audio feeds to the rear Speakers and crimp them in to male spade connectors along with the front Speakers
 
That would be 
"+ positive" front left & "+ positive" Rear left joined in one male crimp connector.
 
Again for "- Negative" Front right & "- Negative" Front right joined in one male crimp connector.
 
Basically your pairing up the left side of the car in to two crimps and the right side of the car in to another two crimps.
 
Then crimp female insulated crimps to the front audio outputs from the headunit.
I'm 90% sure all Speakers will work without any issuses as the problem is within the headunit itself.
 
This method using crimps is the easiest solution to the current problem and can easily be reversed if you were to change the headunit at a later date. 
 
 

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As you recommended, and as our mechanic said too, we removed the door cover from the inside to reveal the speaker unit. We first removed the left side and tested the speaker connector from the unit itself and it didn't show a reading. So it must've been busted and the cause too all problems. By before removing the right one, we tested once again the fader option to see if anything changed, and, to our surprise, it did! The right one played just right, and I could set the audio to just the right rear one! So we put the speaker in the trunk and went to see a electrician that specialises in speaker. We're waiting for his response.

 

Thank you so much for the guidance and the help offered! And in case here can't repair it, can you recommend a site where I can find an original speaker? 

 

Thanks again!!

IMG_1208.JPG

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Oh, and this was the speaker connector if you're wondering.

IMG_1209.JPG

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Hi there, again! The speaker just came back, and it's working perfectly. The guy managed to do a perfect job. 

But, a couple of hours before, I was listening to music, and had a friend sit in the back. He knew about my problem, and moved to the right part of the car to see if the right one was working. Apparently, it was not. Seems like the other one had died aswell. How could that happen? One day it was perfectly working, the other not. It's really scary, and potentially expensive if it keeps on happening. I will remove the other door card tomorrow, and try to move the connector a bit, and see if it fixes the problem. If not, I will send it in to get fixed. But it's really worring me though.

Maybe you have some answers to why they stop working? The right one didn't work before taking out the left one. And once the left one was out, it started working for the rest of the day. The next day, it stopped. Maybe it just doesn't want to have only one speaker in the back? I have no idea. I will update tomorrow.


And as a separate question, if I get the right door card, could I potentially have some tweeters in the back? Right now they didn't come with the car. But I saw my cousin's car, a Ford Focus 2008 mk2, that has the tweeters.  

Thank you!

IMG_1215.JPG

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On Wednesday, March 01, 2017 at 5:53 PM, doriangh said:

Hi there, again! The speaker just came back, and it's working perfectly. The guy managed to do a perfect job. 

But, a couple of hours before, I was listening to music, and had a friend sit in the back. He knew about my problem, and moved to the right part of the car to see if the right one was working. Apparently, it was not. Seems like the other one had died aswell. How could that happen? One day it was perfectly working, the other not. It's really scary, and potentially expensive if it keeps on happening. I will remove the other door card tomorrow, and try to move the connector a bit, and see if it fixes the problem. If not, I will send it in to get fixed. But it's really worring me though.

Maybe you have some answers to why they stop working? The right one didn't work before taking out the left one. And once the left one was out, it started working for the rest of the day. The next day, it stopped. Maybe it just doesn't want to have only one speaker in the back? I have no idea. I will update tomorrow.


And as a separate question, if I get the right door card, could I potentially have some tweeters in the back? Right now they didn't come with the car. But I saw my cousin's car, a Ford Focus 2008 mk2, that has the tweeters.  

Thank you!

IMG_1215.JPG

Hi mate, thanks for the feedback and Sorry for my delayed response, been a bit busy at work and started playing cards on my lunch breaks.

Unfortunately I'm not aware of particular common weak point in the speaker wiring system; perhaps water is getting in to the goose neck connection between door and chassis.

The stock Speakers in general are pretty low build quality despite the sound being fairly sufficent, If I was replacing them id go for an aftermarket set instead, 

The size of aftermarket Speakers you would be looking for are 6.5" 

Along with the Speakers you would need a set of model specific aftermarket speaker adaptors, here's a link to the ones for the rear doors: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Focus-MKII-Speaker-Adaptor-Ring-Spacers-Rear-Upgrade-165mm-6-5-/151012053132?hash=item232905108c:g:jMEAAOSwmfhX67P0 

IMG_20150327_130555_zpsgbsj7ecp.jpg

IMG_20150327_131630_zpspt6cq055.jpg

IMG_20150327_131635_zpsaeljzl52.jpg

There just a plastic ring which fills the factory gap giving you a perfectly sized hole for the 6.5" speaker to fit in to.

focal-k2-power165kr_enl_zpsvgamonsk.jpg

Now regarding tweeters; there are two types of Speakers available on the market, your front Speakers are known as a set of "component Speakers" because the tweeter is separate to the sub, both units are controlled by a box called a "crossover" the crossover takes in full range audio from the headunit basically all sounds; the crossover then splits the audio sending highs to the tweeter and lows to the sub for a clearer sound compared to "coaxial Speakers"

165kr-1_zps3uwr7ws0.jpg

The Speakers you currently have fitted in the rear are known as "coaxial Speakers" they have a small tweeter in the centre of the sub which is good enough for low levels of listening but the hi tones can become muffled or distorted.

Regarding Tweeter fitment: The door cards you currently have; will have a crosshair marking scribed on the inside of the door card to be drilled out for fitting tweeters.

you wouldn't need to change to New door cards or anything just purchase a small wholesaw drill bit and fit the tweeters.

The reason the tweeters are positioned up higher in the door is to be closer to the person's ear compared to the sub, this gives better acoustics and the illusion of a broader spectrum as if your in a large room.

The aftermarket component Speakers will come with a crossover box, i used some Velcro pads to secure mine to the door without drilling.

IMG_20150325_180441_zpsclob3nci_edit_147

IMG_20150221_100437_zpsm7iu6pco.jpg

Now with all that explained we need to solve the intermitting issue with audio to the rear.

I reckon it's a problem with the existing cables or connection between the door and chassis.

The easiest and cheapest way to fix the issue would be to run new cables from the rear of the headunit to the doors, that would be one continues cable from left speaker to the headunit without any connections in the middle or at the door, headunit at one side and speaker at the other side. With the same for the back right speaker.

this process is easily done up to the point where it needs to go from the chassis in to the door; because the goose neck is the only passage way through and it can be a nightmare to get through well takes a bit of faffing and time.

overall it would be the cheapest solution instead of tracing through the existing loom, so you would be looking at purchasing a set of 6.5" component Speakers and ford focus aftermarket rear speaker adaptors. The cost of the Speakers all depends on how much you want to throw at them; if your not planning to put in an amplifier then a set for around 50 pounds would be sufficient that works out at 25 pounds in each door.

there are also speaker baffles which can be fitted in the doors before the speaker goes in; they protect the speaker from moisture aswell as contain volcanic ash which acts as a reflector keeping bass in the car and preventing hum from panels. i do recommend them as I have fitted in all doors but all depends on how much your wanting to spend overall.

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