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jocojohn

Focus overcharging

10 posts in this topic

Hi, new member, Ist post.

My son has a 1999 T reg Focus 1.6 lx. yesterday the battery charge light came on intermitantly and also the speedo dropped to zero. The dashboard diagnostics gave a code stating regulator overcharge and this was confirmed with a multimeter at about 16 volts. My questions are..

1 would a straight alternator swop fix things and is the speedo fault connected to this.

2 I assume the voltage regulator is all part of the alternator and cannot be replaced separately.

3 I have read recently of problems with the instument panel of pre 2001 focus models. Coud this be

linked to the problems with my sons car.

Any help would be great, thanks in advance, John

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Hi, Just an update. I have replaced the alternator but the problem remains, its charging at about 13.5 volts but after about 15 seconds of starting the car the ignition light will come on. Am I correct to assume its the dreaded ford dashboard problem or could something else be to blame.

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Hi, Just an update. I have replaced the alternator but the problem remains, its charging at about 13.5 volts but after about 15 seconds of starting the car the ignition light will come on. Am I correct to assume its the dreaded ford dashboard problem or could something else be to blame.

Have you tried another battery on it as the one on there might have been cooked as it were!

Cheers Pete

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Hi, I was going to put my spare battery on but that was found to have only 10.5 volts, so will need a charge first. By the way, the 16 volt reading was done by my sons friend, when I checked, the highest was about 14 volts. I also checked some of the earth connections but they seemed ok.

If the dash was faulty why is there about a 15 second delay before the ignition light comes on?.

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Hi, I was going to put my spare battery on but that was found to have only 10.5 volts, so will need a charge first. By the way, the 16 volt reading was done by my sons friend, when I checked, the highest was about 14 volts. I also checked some of the earth connections but they seemed ok.

If the dash was faulty why is there about a 15 second delay before the ignition light comes on?.

Doesn't sound to me like the dash problem as I'm sure it was that all dials etc on the dash would die, I would still fit the other battery on it and see what happens as the old battery could be applying some excess loading onto the charging system so to speak and hence causing the light to come on and as the voltage tends to drop somewhat overnight, then you start the car , the volts build up etc and this could only take a few seconds and hence the light on.

Cheers pete

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Thanks again,

I`ve now got the spare battery on charge and my son should be over at the weekend so I will update you then,

John

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Thanks again,

I`ve now got the spare battery on charge and my son should be over at the weekend so I will update you then,

John

Ok John , good luck

Cheers Pete

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Hi

We have now tried another battery but the problem remains, namely about 15 seconds after starting the car the ignition/charging light will ccome on and stay on. I m now inclined to think there may be a bad connection in the 3 wires from the alternator, 2 of which I believe go to the ECU or a problem with the ECU itself or even a bad earth we have missed.

Can anyone suggest what test we can try next?.

One thing we have discovered, although not related to the above is the PCV pipework is very badly split and we will replace this along with the PCV valve tomorrow. Is this a straightforward job or will the inlet manifold need to be removed first.

Thanks again. John

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Hi

We have now tried another battery but the problem remains, namely about 15 seconds after starting the car the ignition/charging light will ccome on and stay on. I m now inclined to think there may be a bad connection in the 3 wires from the alternator, 2 of which I believe go to the ECU or a problem with the ECU itself or even a bad earth we have missed.

Can anyone suggest what test we can try next?.

One thing we have discovered, although not related to the above is the PCV pipework is very badly split and we will replace this along with the PCV valve tomorrow. Is this a straightforward job or will the inlet manifold need to be removed first.

Thanks again. John

Bad earth is certainly a possibility, is the earth wire from the battery terminal in good shape and secured correctly to the chassis or engine block?

Cheers Pete

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Hi

just an update about the battery warning light coming on....

double checked wiring in loom to alternator and found a split in the red wire about 3 inches from alternators 3 pin plug. Inside the split, the copper had corroded away leaving a very blatent open circuit. Spliced and soldered this together and all is working again! YAY!

Hope this helps anyone with a similar problem

John

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