Help! Sump plug / in the middle of oil filter change

[trailertrash]

Maybe there's a case for a bit of clever bodging i.e. drill a hole in the right place to drain the sludge, tap and flush and put another sump plug in. On second thoughts, probably a no go though as it's probably thicker around the real sump plug?

[iantt]

 stop fussing and either use repair kit or new sump, soon be time for another oil change by the time the decision is made!! lol

[Albert27]

7 hours ago, isetta said:

7; going by the pic of the kit, it does not include a handle for the tap. Because they probably assume every workshop has a tap handle from a general tap and die set they already have. you could use a spanner on the end of it but it's not that good doing that. with the proper handle it's like a T so you can hold both ends and keep in straight and even. bearing in mind how crucial doing this right is with no problems I think you need a proper handle

Thanks for noticing that.  Can anyone give me a link to a tap handle that would fit that kit?

[stef123]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tap-Wrench-M4-M12-Bar-Type-3-16-to-1-2-TP119-NEW-/162494674959?hash=item25d56ff80f:g:zNYAAOSwEppUSCnM

you want something like that. 

[mjt]

Before shelling out good cash on something like that, though, it would be worth making sure there is room to turn it.

[Albert27]

50 minutes ago, mjt said:

Before shelling out good cash on something like that, though, it would be worth making sure there is room to turn it.

How do you mean Mike?

[mjt]

I don't know where the sump plug is positioned on the 1.6TDCi but I just meant to make sure that the tap handle can be turned without hitting on any surrounding structures.

[Albert27]

1 minute ago, mjt said:

I don't know where the sump plug is positioned on the 1.6TDCi but I just meant to make sure that the tap handle can be turned without hitting on any surrounding structures.

I think it should be fine .  It's right underneath the sump so nothing around to obstruct it.

[Albert27]

On 30/04/2017 at 7:08 AM, stef123 said:

If you go down the route of using one of those kits, I'd recommend some cutting compound of sorts on the tap - Trefolex is my preferred compound but not really available to the diy market in small quantities. Because it's a paste means the material cut away by the tap tends to stick to it in the flutes meaning less of it will end up in the sump.

Stef, is Trefolex needed as well as Silicone grease as Ian has suggested?  I only have multipurpose silicone grease in the garage and seems a bit of a pain to get hold of Trefolex as you said.  Halfords do a rubbing compound but that seems to be for paint work. 

[stef123]

7 hours ago, Albert27 said:

Stef, is Trefolex needed as well as Silicone grease as Ian has suggested?  I only have multipurpose silicone grease in the garage and seems a bit of a pain to get hold of Trefolex as you said.  Halfords do a rubbing compound but that seems to be for paint work. 

Either multi purpose grease or a tapping compound. I'm not sure what like a silicone grease would be like to tap a thread with, i have never tried it lol. 

Something like this is what Ian is referring to http://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-fluids/grease/comma-multi-purpose-grease-500g

[Albert27]

12 hours ago, stef123 said:

Either multi purpose grease or a tapping compound. I'm not sure what like a silicone grease would be like to tap a thread with, i have never tried it lol. 

Something like this is what Ian is referring to http://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-fluids/grease/comma-multi-purpose-grease-500g

ok thanks Stef, I will pick some of that up today.

[south_bound]

I have had this happen from the very first oil change I did when the car came out of warranty about 7 years ago - not sure if the main dealers did the damage or if it was down to me that first time?  Anyway, I was pretty sure it was the bolt thread which stripped near the bolt head so since then I have been stacking a few washers to get the thread to grip further down towards its end. I am careful not to tighten it up too much and check the oil level regularly to make sure there are no leaks (the under engine tray means I can't check underneath directly without taking it off).  Only once had a bit of a drip when it came to the next oil change.

 

Now I can't open the bonnet to check, and the oil will need changing again soon so need to get that sorted first 

[stef123]

1 hour ago, Albert27 said:

ok thanks Stef, I will pick some of that up today.

Not like the good old days when we used tallow (made from animal fat if you didn't know)  @iantt probably still does  

[Albert27]

7 hours ago, stef123 said:

Not like the good old days when we used tallow (made from animal fat if you didn't know)  @iantt probably still does  

I'm not that old mate to remember 

[Albert27]

7 hours ago, south_bound said:

I have had this happen from the very first oil change I did when the car came out of warranty about 7 years ago - not sure if the main dealers did the damage or if it was down to me that first time?  Anyway, I was pretty sure it was the bolt thread which stripped near the bolt head so since then I have been stacking a few washers to get the thread to grip further down towards its end. I am careful not to tighten it up too much and check the oil level regularly to make sure there are no leaks (the under engine tray means I can't check underneath directly without taking it off).  Only once had a bit of a drip when it came to the next oil change.

 

Now I can't open the bonnet to check, and the oil will need changing again soon so need to get that sorted first 

I'm almost certain that I caused my own downfall on this.  My first oil change i tightened it as hard as i could (i'm not a weak bloke ), fearing if i didn't it would come out. I think that did it!  

I just want someone's opinion on a video i watched on youtube though.  The mechanic suggests getting a longer bolt (my orginial sump plug is M10x12.5), and reckons it will take hold on the thread further up and solve the issue.  I have all the re tapping stuff coming in the post but have bought some M10 x 25mm bolts and am going to try that first.  Any thoughts from you more experienced guys if this will work? How much thread is actually there?  

[sonic113]

Just read through the thread here, sorry to hear about the sump threads going,

Nothing as bad as finishing a job and tightening up to feel to slip on the tension and you knowing the threads have give way. I have been using the same sump plug on a few of our ford card for the past 4 years of services. If they ever leak I will replace them but as a tip for anyone doing an oil change I just slack the sump plug with the socket the unwind by hand. When oil is drained I clean the sump plug and the sump threads with a cloth and then wind it back in full by hand and just slightly tighten up with socket making sure not to over tighten. when I fill up with oil and run the engine for a bit I always check it for leaks but usually its grand.

Its simple to work with but one of those things that can cause a lot of hassle, work and money if rushed to be honest, like many have said the sump is soft where as the plug is hard steel so taker her easy fellas lol! 

 

Hope you get all sorted out soon. Keep up posted.

[Dee_82]

Torque it up, jobs a good-un

 

[iantt]

34nm

[Albert27]

Here's the video for anyone who's interested.  I'll let y'all know how i get on...

 

[stef123]

That would only work if the sump is fairly thick and the original sump plug is quite short..

Get the kit and go for it. 

[isetta]

It's not an alloy sump. It's a steel sump. the thread goes up vertical and it's not that long (the threaded bit in the sump)

[JONATHAN_11_80]

On my previous oil change on my petrol focus with an alloy sump I noted a few metal rings come out with the sump plug.  On checking the threads in the sump it looked ok I couldn't see where the metal rings had come from so I popped the old plug in carefully with a new sealing ring and it it tightened up ok although it felt sticky going back in.

Out of interest how many metal rings came out with the sump plug?  If the whole lot came out I would either replace the sump or get the thread repaired.  But if it was only a few with no sign of the other coming away I would leave it alone and just be careful next time.

[stef123]

Have you done this job yet  

[Albert27]

2 hours ago, JONATHAN_11_80 said:

Out of interest how many metal rings came out with the sump plug?

Probably 3 or 4 but i can't take the risk just in case!

 

2 hours ago, stef123 said:

Have you done this job yet  

Nope, still waiting on snail mail..... 

[Albert27]

Ok guys the job is done.  Before trying to re tap it, I used the longer bolts i bought (m10 x 25mm), original was m10 x 12.5 and to my surprise it worked.  Tightened it up and it's as snug as a bug in a rug!  Been for a run and no leaks.  Will keep an eye on it for the next week or so but looks as though it's done the trick.  Only difference is my sump socket is now 17mm and not 21mm.

Thanks for all the advice -  Next time anything like this happens, I'm well prepared with all the extra tools and info I've got so it's all good.