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125 hp Ecoboost MY14 wont start - fault P053F


Jolah
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Hi,

Was giving my Fiesta a spin and after starting the engine normally after short drive to head back home it stopped during acceleration. Was about to change from 2nd gear to 3rd right in the first acc. after start the engine started to lose power and shake. So I drove it with neutral to parking space and tried to restart.

The engine started running for like 2 seconds and after restarting 5 times did not ran just start. I noticed that the fuel pump buzz could not be heard (when driver door is opened after being parked ~10 min or more). So checked the fuse and relay all ok. I used a wire to replace the relay but no fuel pump running. I read the fault codes. The were 3 but one remained after clearing them which is P053F. Engine was cold after night which explains this code. Another code was there but warm start fuel pressure.

Now I ordered new fuel pump yesterday. This whole thing happened friday  :) Fuel tank needs to be dropped down to replace it. I'm pretty sure thats the thing with my Fiesta. I red about those 500 miles 5 days old fuel pump problems..  I have 84500 km.

I'll keep you posted whats going on if someone has this problem too. Pic in Finnish. Here's the translation: P053F Engine cold start fuel pressure, performance. Signal amplitude too low. Active.20170429_102216.thumb.jpg.5c95080a19cb4c402ec61ee2cdfb9dc7.jpg

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10 hours ago, Jolah said:

I noticed that the fuel pump buzz could not be heard (when driver door is opened after being parked ~10 min or more).

Aha - so *that's* what the whirring noise is I sometimes hear. I was racking my brains wondering what it might be and the fuel pump never even crossed my mind as the priming on all other cars I've had has always occured immediately on startup. I suppose with the high-pressure fuel requirements of the Ecoboost the HP pump needs as good/early a supply as it can get from the LP pump so triggering this from the driver's door makes sense. Thank you! (And apologies I can't help with your issue)

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I thought it was the fuel pump priming too but then I noticed if I unplug the throttle body I don't get the buzz when I open the door so are we sure that isnt it? There's so many sounds on them it's hard to tell haha!

 

@iantt have you had any in with this issue?

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Not noticed any noises myself, explain when you hear it?

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I hear the whirring/buzzing noise of a pump coming from the rear just after I've opened the drivers door and am getting settled into seat. Only lasts for a few seconds. Was the same on my old Citroen, always assumed it was just a fuel pump priming up as others have suggested. I only notice it from a cold start.

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I hear a buzzing/wurring when I open my driver door. If I leave the car unlocked I also hear a different buzz from the rear of the car every few minutes (pretty irritating, especially in the garage) 

 

As I say though when I accidentally left the throttle body unplugged I didn't notice the buzz with the door open 

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Its definetly fuel pump buzz since mine is not running even when current is plugged to it with piece of wire to the pump relay socket. If there is a fault code active from throttle body maybe the motor ECU won't give the initial priming signal to the fp relay.

 

I'm still waiting for the pump/tank assembly to arrive...

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  • 3 weeks later...

Fuel tank removed and fuel pump replaced today. Its running again \o/ 

Fairly easy to replace no special tools are needed. For the fuel pump tightener I used piece of wood and a hammer to screw it open. Special tool is much faster though.

20170522_125508.jpg

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is that the photo of the old pump ?

 

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Good work Jouni!

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On ‎5‎/‎3‎/‎2017 at 10:39 AM, Jolah said:

Its definetly fuel pump buzz since mine is not running even when current is plugged to it with piece of wire to the pump relay socket. If there is a fault code active from throttle body maybe the motor ECU won't give the initial priming signal to the fp relay.

 

I'm still waiting for the pump/tank assembly to arrive...

What was the mileage of your car when this pump failed ?

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6 minutes ago, 540itouring said:

What was the mileage of your car when this pump failed ?

first post says 84500km

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2 hours ago, iantt said:

is that the photo of the old pump ?

 

Its the new one there with yellow protection cap in it. 

It was 85400 kilometers approx.

I said in my previous post that its easy... I have to correct that its easy  mechanical work. Just takes a lot of time. My work was completed in just under 4 hours.

Heres all other pics I took. So tank without the fuel pump and old (dirty) and new pump next to each other.

Here's a short instruction.

1) Lift vehicle up (jacks do well if you cannot use proper lifter)

2) From the rear side loose the filling pipe and the ventilation pipe. They rubber hose part is easiest, its tightened with onetime usable tightener whoch I afterwards replaced one with 7 mm screw in it (sorry for the wrong terms). From these two you can remove all fuel from the tank with pipe to lower the weight.

3) Tank is strapped with 2 straps which are tightened with common bolt in the front end. So start loosening these bolts but leave at least one finger tight. I say that this one should be the common bolt in front. In the starps there are heat cover attached and in front cable for handbrake remove these too. Bend the heat covers carefully out of way (can be bend back easily).

4) When backend bolts are loose ask a help from a friend to hold the tank for you and release the fuel pump fuel line and the electric connector.

5) Loosen the front bolt. There is still one fuel line for the fume canister (LHDriven front left side) coming from front. There is a second one too but it goes in top of the tank so just remove the one coming from front (motor). To do this you have propably lower the tank 10-15 cm (1/2 feet...? :) so again extra pair of hands are recommended.

6) Twist, turn, curse the fuel in your hands, lower and tadaa... tank in the floor.

7) Plastic tightener (huge nut badically) is verrrry tight. Use special tool for this or use hammer and wood clap like I or something similar to knock the nut slowly.

Thats it. Then just turn the old pump out (I had new seal too) and replace it. Mark carefully where the fuel connector points. First tighten the nut by hand and keep the connector in right place. Then use the tool or knock :P There is a arrow in the nut and text "min" & "max" in the tank. Tighten the rest between those two and start planning how to get tank back to the vehicle....

IMG-20170522-WA0000.jpeg

IMG-20170522-WA0002.jpeg

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What was the date on the old one?

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7 hours ago, iantt said:

What was the date on the old one?

Dont remember exactly but 2013 was the year. Engineering number was C1B19H307AC new was C1B19H307AE.

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Well done that man.   Not a job I would fancy tackling. 

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Just to add about the noise I mentioned so people know what I was referring to 

 

Was sat in the car earlier and thus happened every 10-15seconds https://goo.gl/photos/Fvj7C5ChMzGY2A278

It's extremely loud, the phone didn't really pick it up 

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On 24.5.2017 at 1:17 AM, GingerFlame said:

Just to add about the noise I mentioned so people know what I was referring to 

 

Was sat in the car earlier and thus happened every 10-15seconds https://goo.gl/photos/Fvj7C5ChMzGY2A278

It's extremely loud, the phone didn't really pick it up 

I hear only the "ching" noise there in the beginning but I have my laptop Speakers only available at the moment...

I have auto-HVAC which makes sounds when it's moving the flaps inside the dash. I see you have manual but it still can have some electronic control from the HVAC panel.

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It's in the last 5 or 6 seconds, you have to turn it up :( 

 

It's repetitive whenever the car is unlocked so I can't understand why it would be the flaps.. Although knowing ford it could be 

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The external air vent is closed up whenever the car is locked (and opened on unlock once inside). It sounds like other servos may be cycled/reset in a similar fashion.

That aside though, this isn't the sound I am hearing when I open the driver's door - I must post a video to illustrate better.

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