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1 hour ago, Dan62 said:

Just gone through the posts again.
Looks like the black plug with wires going through the bulkhead is the one I thought we were still searching for :confused1:.

Leave the Black plug disconnected and now working under the bonnet check the CAN BUS resistance at the ABS connector, it should be 120 ohms with the PCM connector plugged in.
Forget about the BCM and obd end, you have verified that is ok.
If the above test is 120 ohms the break is between the black plug and the ABS connector. If its high resistance or open circuit the break is in the engine bay.
 

 

I have 120 ohms on abs conector and black plug end

i though there was a resistor in the ecu so it should be 120ohms 

I have 2 lots of blue/white wires in foot well on different plugs 

the other side of that black plug I have open circuit 

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2 hours ago, Dan62 said:

Just gone through the posts again.
Looks like the black plug with wires going through the bulkhead is the one I thought we were still searching for :confused1:.

Leave the Black plug disconnected and now working under the bonnet check the CAN BUS resistance at the ABS connector, it should be 120 ohms with the PCM connector plugged in.
Forget about the BCM and obd end, you have verified that is ok.
If the above test is 120 ohms the break is between the black plug and the ABS connector. If its high resistance or open circuit the break is in the engine bay.
 

 

Hi I’ve done the check on the abs and black plug 124ohms with the pcm plugged in

the other side of that black plug is open circuit that were not the same wires I was checking before there seams to be two sets

on the other white plug 

 

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Just now, waynes had enough with it said:

Hi I’ve done the check on the abs and black plug 124ohms with the pcm plugged in

the other side of that black plug is open circuit that were not the same wires I was checking before there seams to be two sets

on the other white plug 

 

There is another pair of wires on on the other end of the plug in the picture 

A599D7BD-4893-4D5E-A39C-D46E9C4574B0.png

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The problem not working with an accurate wiring diagram.
Looks like you'll have to check wire continuity from plug to plug for each wire to check you're on the right BUS.


 

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1 hour ago, Dan62 said:

The problem not working with an accurate wiring diagram.
Looks like you'll have to check wire continuity from plug to plug for each wire to check you're on the right BUS.


 

I’ve now plugged everything back in and checked pins 6-14 obd plug now have 26 ohms only ,so  I’ve reconnected the battery to see if it will start , and now I have no ignition 

the stereo and dash lights up and the remote key locking all work, maybe the can bus is to low on resistance I can’t get ignition or there is more then 1 broken wire ? 

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You'll need to go through the process again. Very odd that the resistance is now so low.  At least you know your way around the connectors now. 

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42 minutes ago, Dan62 said:

You'll need to go through the process again. Very odd that the resistance is now so low.  At least you know your way around the connectors now. 

Found the blue plug on the BCM wasn’t connected properly 

I have ignition and same faults and 133 ohms still on obd plug

im thinking the BCM could be the fault

as it all passé through it

is there any way off checking certain terminals to check the resistance through it 

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16 hours ago, waynes had enough with it said:

im thinking the BCM could be the fault

as it all passé through it

is there any way off checking certain terminals to check the resistance through it 

The BCM and PCM are end points for the BUS, the BUS is terminated at the end points with 120 ohm resistors.

Without a wiring diagram you would have to reverse engineer the circuit, starting at the obd port which is the only connector you know for sure is the right BUS, pins 6 & 14

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As Dan62 says without an accurate wiring diagram it is going to be a slow process of going plug to plug wire to wire. The fact things have now changed and nothing has been done other than disconnecting and reconnecting plugs makes me think that you have disturbed something. I still think you have a bad connector, so go back to each of the connectores you have been checking and disconect them. When you were testing the female contacts could you have maybe stretched the contact open a little so that it is now making a poor contact ?

The fact you now have only 23 ohms on the OBDII port would mean that you have a part short circuit on the CAN. Again go back and disconnect the connectors you have been working on and keep rechecking the resistance on the OBDII.

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2 hours ago, unofix said:

As Dan62 says without an accurate wiring diagram it is going to be a slow process of going plug to plug wire to wire. The fact things have now changed and nothing has been done other than disconnecting and reconnecting plugs makes me think that you have disturbed something. I still think you have a bad connector, so go back to each of the connectores you have been checking and disconect them. When you were testing the female contacts could you have maybe stretched the contact open a little so that it is now making a poor contact ?

The fact you now have only 23 ohms on the OBDII port would mean that you have a part short circuit on the CAN. Again go back and disconnect the connectors you have been working on and keep rechecking the resistance on the OBDII.

The 23 ohms is gone it as a plug on the BCM 

im back to 133 ohms on 6-14 can 

the white plug in the picture seam to have double the can bus Same  wires 

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On 4/11/2021 at 12:31 PM, waynes had enough with it said:

The 23 ohms is gone it as a plug on the BCM 

im back to 133 ohms on 6-14 can 

the white plug in the picture seam to have double the can bus Same  wires 

Ok I’ve checked the can bus wiring 

and all checks out ok 

from the DLC to blue plug on BCM I stuck a loop in pins 6-7 on BCM plug and then checked resistance at the DLC pin 6-14 and 2.5 ohms

the 2 lots off can wires on the white plug

what was confusing me , loop back to the plug after running  off up the door puller and back again

431A6D1F-02B0-45BF-BF9D-F4E93AE41862.jpeg

D5EBE56E-853F-4CE2-8F9E-E3A453B34144.jpeg

D166D42D-C76C-4668-80DD-6C2C88ED2A2C.jpeg

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Just now, waynes had enough with it said:

Ok I’ve checked the can bus wiring 

and all checks out ok 

from the DLC to blue plug on BCM I stuck a loop in pins 6-7 on BCM plug and then checked resistance at the DLC pin 6-14 and 2.5 ohms

the 2 lots off can wires on the white plug

what was confusing me , loop back to the plug after running  off up the door puller and back again

431A6D1F-02B0-45BF-BF9D-F4E93AE41862.jpeg

D5EBE56E-853F-4CE2-8F9E-E3A453B34144.jpeg

D166D42D-C76C-4668-80DD-6C2C88ED2A2C.jpeg

I’ve checked pins 6-7 on the BCM an I get 120 ohms where the blue plug connects 

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Just now, waynes had enough with it said:

I’ve checked pins 6-7 on the BCM an I get 120 ohms where the blue plug connects 

The only bit I’m stuck with is finding the other end off the can link from the engine plug blue/white wires runs into a loom and goes under the carpet 

image.jpg

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25 minutes ago, waynes had enough with it said:

The only bit I’m stuck with is finding the other end off the can link from the engine plug blue/white wires runs into a loom and goes under the carpet 

image.jpg

I need to locate where this runs to

it goes in loom down passenger floor and some splits across to centre console 

I need to find the other end without stripping the car air to locate it 

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Hi Wayne you have done an excellent job of testing the CAN wires. As you say you need to find the other end of that lead since it would seem that the problem could well be at that end

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8 hours ago, unofix said:

Hi Wayne you have done an excellent job of testing the CAN wires. As you say you need to find the other end of that lead since it would seem that the problem could well be at that end

Would these run through the clock spring under the steering wheel and break the circuit  SASM 

the original fault wile driving was the traction control light fault came up first

then engine malfunction 

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I don't know sorry. I think Dan62 has a better idea of the harness route

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On 4/14/2021 at 11:08 PM, unofix said:

I don't know sorry. I think Dan62 has a better idea of the harness route

Finally found the broken wire

runs across the centre console to a small plug 

cut it out and fitted me link wire

thanks for all you help and time much appreciated 

now to put it all back together 

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Congratulations Wayne - So your off to the pub to celebrate 🤣

I hope it all goes well and your problem is now fixed

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  • 2 years later...

Mám problém s chybovými kódmi U010E a U0074, na Fode transit custom 2020 viete mi poradiť kde ich hľadať. Ďakujem

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  • 9 months later...

Üdv mindenkinek! Magyarországról származom. Elnézést a helyesírásomért. Nekem nagyon hasonló problémám van, mint a frenchspannerrel.
Sokáig nem parkolt az autóm, csak két napig nem használtam és mikor indulni készültem, kiírta az "indításgátló aktív" üzenetet.
A műszercsoportban is volt forrasztási törés, amit kijavítottak, mert szerintük ez jelzi a hibát.
Ezt követően a diagnosztikai programmal már nem lehetett törölni a hibát, mert a rendszer nem kapott információt az ABS-től.
Lehet, hogy ugyanazt kell tennem, amit a megjegyzésekben olvastam. Ez komoly munka lesz.
Remélem tudsz nekem segíteni!

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Hi everybody! I come from Hungary. Sorry for my spelling. I have a very similar problem to the french spanner.
My car wasn't parked for a long time, I didn't use it for two days and when I was about to leave, it displayed the message "immobilizer active".
There was also a solder break in the instrument cluster, which was repaired because they think this indicates the fault.
After that, the diagnostic program could no longer delete the error because the system did not receive information from the ABS.
I might have to do the same thing I read in the comments. This will be serious work.
I hope you can help me!

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