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Throttle position problem


Stokelad1989
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Hi everyone I have been having a problem with my accelerator so I had it on the diagnostics and it come up with the code P2125 which is the throttle position sensor problem so I had the pedal replaced and still the problem persists so I thought a throttle body so I got a second hand one and I just can't 're learn the throttle body! Wireing maybe? Any help would be much appreciated!!Thanks 2006 Ford focus mk2 1.6 petrol

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6 minutes ago, F0CUE said:

Did you disconnect the minus battery connector?

Yeh for a good half hour, I'm at my wits end with it 

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3 minutes ago, F0CUE said:

What is it doing?

A light on the dash is coming on its a explanation Mark with a red cog around it and when It comes on there is a massive delay when I press the accelerator or even no response from it so I have to turn the engine of and back on again and the light will stay off for a little while but it returns sooner or later! It's very dangerous when it completely goes as it sometimes gives me no warning! 

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On the Focus MK2/MK2.5 TPS related DTC codes can also be caused by a defective instrument cluster.

All Focus MK2/MK2.5 versions have a drive by wire throttle pedal. The throttle pedal has a position sensor (basically just a potentiometer) which is directly connected to the instrument cluster. The instrument cluster converts the analog sensor signal to a digital CANbus signal and communicates this signal to the PCM. The PCM controls the electronic throttle body. Bad soldering connections of the instrument cluster circuit board can result in a bad connection (or no connection at all). This can generate the DTC code and even put the car in limp mode.

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I may be wrong but does the  New throttle body have to be programed into the computer ?

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11 minutes ago, JW1982 said:

On the Focus MK2/MK2.5 TPS related DTC codes can also be caused by a defective instrument cluster.

All Focus MK2/MK2.5 versions have a drive by wire throttle pedal. The throttle pedal has a position sensor (basically just a potentiometer) which is directly connected to the instrument cluster. The instrument cluster converts the analog sensor signal to a digital CANbus signal and communicates this signal to the PCM. The PCM controls the electronic throttle body. Bad soldering connections of the instrument cluster circuit board can result in a bad connection (or no connection at all). This can generate the DTC code and even put the car in limp mode.

This is one thing i hope its not as im guessing it's a costly job to do! Will an auto electrition be able to tell me if this is the problem? Also if this was the case wouldnt the problem be all the time and not intemittent? Thanks

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7 minutes ago, Gizza11 said:

I may be wrong but does the  New throttle body have to be programed into the computer ?

I heard just put the new one on and disconnect the battery for Alf hour and let the ecu figure its self out with the idle and stuff, could be wrong tho

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1 minute ago, Gizza11 said:

I may be wrong but does the  New throttle body have to be programed into the computer ?

No, it does not.

The throttle body electronics basically consist of the Throttle Position Sensor (which measures the actual position of the throttle plate) and a small electric motor (that drives the throttle plate). The PCM uses the Throttle Position Sensor to measure the actual position of the throttle plate and uses this information to control the electic motor that drives the throttle plate. This is basically a self learning system. You can only reset the KAM (Keep Alive Memory). Resetting the KAM Forces the PCM to run a standard mode with pre-programmed parameters. During a longer drive the PCM starts to adapt these parameters by using its self learning capabilities.

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I agree with JW the TP sensor on the tb you got must be broken 

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Going go garage tomorrow get it pluged in and see if he can pin point the problem, he says he can as he does electrics, we shall see and I'll update 2moz 

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"This is one thing i hope its not as im guessing it's a costly job to do! Will an auto electrition be able to tell me if this is the problem? Also if this was the case wouldnt the problem be all the time and not intemittent? Thanks"

The defective soldering can be intermittent. it could make and break the connection intermittently by heat (expansion) cold (contraction) vibration and also probably by the amount of current going through the defective joint.

My understand is that in modern consumer electronics a lot of problems are caused by the phasing out of solder with lead in. Lead makes the solder have a lower melting point and keeps the joint more flexible to cope with heat/cold. Solder without lead in it is more brittle and fails much more easily.

This affects many things, cars , computers, laptops, televisions etc etc.

 

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21 minutes ago, JW1982 said:

The throttle body electronics basically consist of the Throttle Position Sensor (which measures the actual position of the throttle plate) and a small electric motor (that drives the throttle plate). The PCM uses the Throttle Position Sensor to measure the actual position of the throttle plate and uses this information to control the electic motor that drives the throttle plate. This is basically a self learning system. You can only reset the KAM (Keep Alive Memory). Resetting the KAM Forces the PCM to run a standard mode with pre-programmed parameters. During a longer drive the PCM starts to adapt these parameters by using its self learni

Very interesting and nice to know. As on my car a MK2 ST I was thinking of fitting a reworked larger throttle body but was put off as I thought it may need programing but as you say it self learns. So that is good news to me .

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10 minutes ago, isetta said:

"This is one thing i hope its not as im guessing it's a costly job to do! Will an auto electrition be able to tell me if this is the problem? Also if this was the case wouldnt the problem be all the time and not intemittent? Thanks"

The defective soldering can be intermittent. it could make and break the connection intermittently by heat (expansion) cold (contraction) vibration and also probably by the amount of current going through the defective joint.

My understand is that in modern consumer electronics a lot of problems are caused by the phasing out of solder with lead in. Lead makes the solder have a lower melting point and keeps the joint more flexible to cope with heat/cold. Solder without lead in it is more brittle and fails much more easily.

This affects many things, cars , computers, laptops, televisions etc etc.

 

Thank you for that info I'm going take it garage tomorrow see what he says. Fingers crossed its not a big job!

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  • 1 year later...
On 5/14/2017 at 6:02 PM, Stokelad1989 said:

Hi everyone I have been having a problem with my accelerator so I had it on the diagnostics and it come up with the code P2125 which is the throttle position sensor problem so I had the pedal replaced and still the problem persists so I thought a throttle body so I got a second hand one and I just can't 're learn the throttle body! Wireing maybe? Any help would be much appreciated!!Thanks 2006 Ford focus mk2 1.6 petrol

Did you ever resolve this? What was the fix? Thanks

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  • 1 year later...

I'm having same problems with my 57 plate st3 .had a slight missfire under load.so got set of new plugs .changes all of them now it wont rev over 3k and getting speed limited mode/ and  engine systems fault.  Any ideas 💡 

Edited by h4rr15st
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  • 2 months later...

The same problem was solved by programming the car using a device that was connected to the car
The problem was caused by the battery being disconnected for a long time

WhatsApp Image 2020-07-17 at 6.35.19 PM (1).jpeg

WhatsApp Image 2020-07-17 at 6.35.19 PM.jpeg

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  • 9 months later...

Re Ford Focus hback 56 plate 1.6 petrol, Okay if this helps anyone, I had a problem with the throttle postion sensor.

Symptoms were; get in car and its okay for a while then traction light comes on, losing power intermittently, all warning lights and dials coming and going off like a xmas tree, car still runs but maybe 25% power down having to stamp on the accelerator.

Could not reset it taking the battery off.

Ended up buying a new pedal and sensor off Ebay, £57, checked my reg with them and it's a 6 point connector for me.

My local AA man fitted it for a tenner, its three bolts!

Seems to have fixed it, touch wood.

 

 

 

 

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On 5/2/2021 at 3:59 PM, Paul Buxton said:

Re Ford Focus hback 56 plate 1.6 petrol, Okay if this helps anyone, I had a problem with the throttle postion sensor.

Symptoms were; get in car and its okay for a while then traction light comes on, losing power intermittently, all warning lights and dials coming and going off like a xmas tree, car still runs but maybe 25% power down having to stamp on the accelerator.

Could not reset it taking the battery off.

Ended up buying a new pedal and sensor off Ebay, £57, checked my reg with them and it's a 6 point connector for me.

My local AA man fitted it for a tenner, its three bolts!

Seems to have fixed it, touch wood.

 

 

 

 

BTW local garage scanned it and it had no faults?

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On 5/2/2021 at 3:59 PM, Paul Buxton said:

My local AA man fitted it for a tenner, its three bolts!

 

Out of this thread, this is the bit that caught my eye. Never knew you could employ an AA man outside of a 'breakdown' call... 😁

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  • 10 months later...

Have a manual 1.6 tdci focus hatchback, the last week I noticed the pedal position has dropped. No error codes on the display and it seems to be driving fine except for the extra acceleration. Mechanic I use is away for 2 weeks and it will be going in for it's usual service when he's back. It's just 1000km over the service mileage.  I read it could be battery or sensor. 

I use a car cover with straps under it and it would have been after the bad weather and the cover getting blown up to the front and under the front wheels.  It was about the same time also I hoovered the inside and was hovering under the driver footwell. I've also have the heading directed under there recently. 

Just wondering what it might be. 

 

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