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I do like the idea of an 'accent' on one of the bars like your blue ones. 

Not sure what colour would go with candy red and the gloss black though.

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I do like the idea of an 'accent' on one of the bars like your blue ones. 
Not sure what colour would go with candy red and the gloss black though.


Maybe a yellow of some kind ? Or just go subtle and make the accents matte/gloss carbon ?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191723084638

I found this stuff I was going to re wrap my centre console with. Looks cool.

Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk

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22 hours ago, kpg said:


 

 


Maybe a yellow of some kind ? Or just go subtle and make the accents matte/gloss carbon ?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191723084638

I found this stuff I was going to re wrap my centre console with. Looks cool.

Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk
 

 

Yellow would be a statement!  Think subtle might be the way to go.  I just know I'd screw it up - although at least I can hide the rough edge at the back on the fins :)

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Niice! I assume this is a proper mk3 one? Is the silver bit actually metal? It looks shinier than mine...

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk



[nosey] what's the white wire for??
[/nosey]

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On 8/11/2017 at 10:26 PM, Phil21185 said:

Niice! I assume this is a proper mk3 one? Is the silver bit actually metal? It looks shinier than mine...

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
 

 


[nosey] what's the white wire for??
[/nosey]

 

It's proper mk3 yeah.  £75 off amazon (with a £5 off voucher).  Mental expensive but it just matches better with the handbrake etc.  Love it!

Not sure if its metal but it feels like it.  Feels quality, and obviously love the fact it's wired straight in and you can adjust the glow with the dash buttons :D

The wite cable is just an apple lightning cable with a sticky cable holder thing.  Works with my phone on a Quadlock thing.

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2 minutes ago, vibeone said:

It's proper mk3 yeah.  £75 off amazon (with a £5 off voucher).  Mental expensive but it just matches better with the handbrake etc.  Love it!

Not sure if its metal but it feels like it.  Feels quality, and obviously love the fact it's wired straight in and you can adjust the glow with the dash buttons :D

The wite cable is just an apple lightning cable with a sticky cable holder thing.  Works with my phone on a Quadlock thing.

Why does my car have to be a 5 speed !!! 

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It's proper mk3 yeah.  £75 off amazon (with a £5 off voucher).  Mental expensive but it just matches better with the handbrake etc.  Love it!
Not sure if its metal but it feels like it.  Feels quality, and obviously love the fact it's wired straight in and you can adjust the glow with the dash buttons :D
The wite cable is just an apple lightning cable with a sticky cable holder thing.  Works with my phone on a Quadlock thing.
Ah that's something I didn't think about, the dimming function... mine didn't come with any wiring and I couldn't find the loose loom in the centre console that others have said they wired into...

I've only had my car since may and have so far not driven it at night so time will tell if this will be a problem...

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36 minutes ago, Phil21185 said:

Ah that's something I didn't think about, the dimming function... mine didn't come with any wiring and I couldn't find the loose loom in the centre console that others have said they wired into...

I've only had my car since may and have so far not driven it at night so time will tell if this will be a problem...

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
 

I couldn't find the loom plug and got very very close to giving up and cutting.  It is there, it's just helpfully hidden by black tape (well it was for me anyway).

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Thanks for that. I might have another look tonight. Right near the left front seat behind the centre console side panel, right?

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Ahhh. Found it. It's not as far back as I thought. It's a 10 pin connector, taped up to the loom around where the aircon controls are.

I rewired mine into this but I don't really notice any dimming. It is daytime though...

For those looking, this is what it looks like.126cd5cd98549aa2fbc879ce111b2860.jpg

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I just bought cheap leds and a controller separately to fiddle about before installing on the car.  The controller has 5 wires, + V  and 0V input from battery (not ignition live),  +V and 0V output to leds and 5th wire to sides or headlights to dim.  The controller also has a timer which switches the leds off after 10secs.   Connecting to a 9V battery on the bench, the dimming function works by touching the 5th lead on the batt +ve.  Remove it and the leds time out. If this were imitated on the car, with no sidelights on, the timer would switch off after 10 secs.  How can connecting the 5th wire to a sidelight circuit that is not switched on keep the leds full on.  Or am I in age-related thick mode and missing something?

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Here are mine on mk2.5 .first the illumenated gear knob with 2 colours.
Red & green.
The drls dim when lights are on. I also fitted a switch to switch off when dont want it on.
Yunii
d914454d6f3da041534dadf2bbda8758.jpg
c4c9684c66458655afd9ad83909ad210.jpgb2bc003bd2a71b9142d296498d2fd40b.jpg0ca2921bd62ec82d7bf263168a92539c.jpgdefc6009f85200e5e5e6e144483f193d.jpg25e6b835cd2b9a4a973ed74049a105da.jpgbd7ff6223fecf006dccd2e3025ad7666.jpgfe25d8693518776e5c19dbefed111324.jpgeb5b3537b8b0c67936e28df049caa1aa.jpg

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15 hours ago, Freddy42 said:

I just bought cheap leds and a controller separately to fiddle about before installing on the car.  The controller has 5 wires, + V  and 0V input from battery (not ignition live),  +V and 0V output to leds and 5th wire to sides or headlights to dim.  The controller also has a timer which switches the leds off after 10secs.   Connecting to a 9V battery on the bench, the dimming function works by touching the 5th lead on the batt +ve.  Remove it and the leds time out. If this were imitated on the car, with no sidelights on, the timer would switch off after 10 secs.  How can connecting the 5th wire to a sidelight circuit that is not switched on keep the leds full on.  Or am I in age-related thick mode and missing something?

Hmm not certain as my DRLs came with their own controller.

I'm assuming that the timeout function is like a function for after locking your car and walking up to your house. It makes sense for them to be battery connected instead of ignition live so they stay on after the engine turns off.

The problem I see is that I don't understand how the controller is told that it should start counting as the 5th wire is for dimming you say?

If you hook them up on the bench but leave the dimming wire off, do they still timeout?

 

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Just plumped for led brake, reverse, indicator and fog bulbs. Got some ballasts already for the indicators but it wasn't clear in the listings if I'll need resistors for the others.

Listing said no canbus errors on 80% of modern European cars...

I'm not having 3 resistors on each rear light cluster!!

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9 hours ago, Phil21185 said:

Hmm not certain as my DRLs came with their own controller.

I'm assuming that the timeout function is like a function for after locking your car and walking up to your house. It makes sense for them to be battery connected instead of ignition live so they stay on after the engine turns off.

The problem I see is that I don't understand how the controller is told that it should start counting as the 5th wire is for dimming you say?

If you hook them up on the bench but leave the dimming wire off, do they still timeout?

 

On the bench - connect battery pos and neg, leds come on full.  Do nothing and leds time out (the equivalent of leaving the vehicle).  If the 5th wire is connected before time is up, the leds dim and stay on indefinitely (as when on the road).  Removing the 5th wire puts the leds out with no time delay.

  So, on the car the 5th wire would be connected to the sidelights and would somehow send a signal to start the leds when the ignition is turned on, although how this could be done with the sidelights off is a bit of a mystery. 

There are lots of controllers of this configuration on Ebay, therefore the next step, I think, is to temporarily connect to the car and see what happens. 

Just one of life's little adventures, innit?

How is your controller connected?

 

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Mine is simply 3 wire (though with a pair of wires for for each DRLs separately). Red to fuse box (with a fuse tap to f42) black to earthing point of the car and white I've hooked up to the main beam wire.

My DRLs stay on full with sidelights only but dim with dipped beams.

I wonder what happens if you swap your pos wire and your 5th wire? There must be a wiring configuration which keeps the DRLs on without the dimming wire present??

As a side note, that's a nice electronic organ you have there! I'm actually a pipe organ builder by trade but I do have a few cinema organs on the books with similar horseshoe consoles to yours!

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5 minutes ago, Phil21185 said:

Mine is simply 3 wire (though with a pair of wires for for each DRLs separately). Red to fuse box (with a fuse tap to f42) black to earthing point of the car and white I've hooked up to the main beam wire.

My DRLs stay on full with sidelights only but dim with dipped beams.

I wonder what happens if you swap your pos wire and your 5th wire? There must be a wiring configuration which keeps the DRLs on without the dimming wire present??

As a side note, that's a nice electronic organ you have there! I'm actually a pipe organ builder by trade but I do have a few cinema organs on the books with similar horseshoe consoles to yours!

The plot thickens.  Just connected to the car on a temp basis and, lo and behold, the leds come on full when the engine fires up so swapping pos and 5th isn't the answer.  Connected the fifth wire to the sidelights and now the leds don't dim although there is definitely 12V going back to the controller when the sides are on.  Dab the 5th wire on the battery pos and the leds dim.  Time to admit defeat.

The organ is a Conn 580 from the early 70s, ridiculously expensive when new but now nobody wants them.  Conn managed to give these organs a very mellow tone and the tibias are fantastic with the Leslie. The nearest Wurlitzer is in Burton Town Hall and I've had a go on that on a few occasions; the Council charges £12 for an hour's practice. The organ tuner is a friend of mine and he keeps the instrument in impeccable condition.  Fortunately, the Council don't object to paying out for maintenance and upgrades. 

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Very strange. Especially since you can get the dimming to work from a 9v battery...

Well there are 2 Compton organs close by me, one actually in a cinema, one in a private house. I've also looked after a Christie at Haworth in recent years!

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Well as I mentioned, there are now in the post on their way to me a full set of LED bulbs for all my external lights apart from side, dipped and main beam for less than £70 (not bad for 4 indicators, 2 brake and tails, 2 rear fogs, 2 reverse and 2 front fog bulbs - less than £6 per bulb).  I did make a thread listing all the bulb types a while ago, but I struggled to find it so I'm just gonna repost that list in this thread for my own convenience as well as others::

 

Front & Rear Indicator - 581 (PY21W)

Headlamp Main Beam - H1

Headlamp Dipped Beam - H7

Cornering Lamp - H1

Front Fog Lamp - H11

Side Lamp - 501 (W5W)

Side Repeater - 501 (WY5W) == Stephen (MadMole) has a great guide to removing the wing mirror panels HERE which gives access to these and puddle lights if fitted.

Approach Lamp - 501 (W5W)

Brake and Tail Lamp - 380 (P21/5W)

Tail Lamp - 501 (W5W) == My Titanium has LED already in these...

Rear Fog Lamp - 382 (P21W)

Reversing Lamp - 955 (W16W)

Luggage Compartment Lamp 501 (W5W) - 5w - P&P == My Ti has one either side, not sure if only one in Zetecs.  There's no reflector in these lights so a COB LED (panel type) or a bulb with lots of SMD's on the sides will throw the light out better.  Remove the lens with a small screwdriver on the short side nearest the back seats.  I found it helpful to drop the back seats to get at them.

Glovebox Lamp - 501 (W5W) - 5w - P&P == This is a bit of a git to get to as you have to remove the glovebox and quite frankly even an LED here doesn't cast much light into the glovebox so what I've done is got a bit of copper project board to act as a plug (so I can put it all back to stock if needed) and wired a self adhesive LED strip to it, stuck to the very back of the 'roof' of the glovebox.  I might take some pics of tis as its a huuuuuge difference!

Dome Lights - ?? - ?? - ?? == Already LED's in mine so need some info here.  Are there also rear domes in Zetecs?

It'll be time for a new profile pic when this lot is fitted.

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Hmm half time update.

If you have a mk3 with the led rear light cluster (the two red led bars) then your brake light is a single filament 382 bulb the same as the rear fogs, not a twin 380 like it says in the manual.

Ask me how I know...

 

...[sigh]....bum.

On the upside, indicators, front fogs and reverse lights all fitted and working beautifully. Pics and write ups when my replacement bulbs and rear fogs are done 😊

 

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Hmm half time update.
If you have a mk3 with the led rear light cluster (the two red led bars) then your brake light is a single filament 382 bulb the same as the rear fogs, not a twin 380 like it says in the manual.
Ask me how I know...
 
...[sigh]....bum.
On the upside, indicators, front fogs and reverse lights all fitted and working beautifully. Pics and write ups when my replacement bulbs and rear fogs are done
 

Oooo photos please. I've been thinking on doing this too.

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They're a-comin! I'll also put up links to the items I used. They seem decent quality but time will tell...

They're mostly plug and play apart from the indicators but I'll include pinouts for them so you know where to scotch block your resistors onto 😎

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On 05/08/2017 at 1:07 PM, kpg said:


1501934853975.jpg

@kpg Keifer, can I ask what bulbs you have in your front clusters please?

I really like that they match your DRLs but I really don't want the hassle of swapping them for warmer ones when the MOT rolls around.

I take it you've never had problems in that respect? Though I know there's a different test where you are?

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