Jump to content
Do Not Sell My Personal Information


Phil's Build Thread


Phil21185
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi, all, I'm just following the guide to upgrade my SYNC1.1 (Focus facelit 2015) to SYNC 2, but I have some doubts. As my Car has two USB connections that actually connects to the SYNC1 APIM module, I know, one of them will be connected to the USB port in the SYNC2 APIM module, but, the second USB port will be lost? I see in the guide, the SD-Card connection from the Media Hub is rewired to the SYNC2 APIM module, so, as no additional connection for USB I suppose I will lost it. I don't want to use both USB ports at the same time, so, it could be possible to splice both into one??

TIA

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Thought I replied to this on mobile, but maybe didn't submit it.

Not entirely certain, but SYNC 3 can have a twin USB port in the armrest, but only uses one data cable to connect it.  Both ports work ok so it might be possible with SYNC 2.  I thought all facelifts came with Sync 2 - you learn something new everyday!

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quick update as to some things:

Yonks ago when I upgraded to Sync 3, I had an annoying problem where the turn-by-turn instructions on the dash would be out of sync with the main display by a factor of 256 - I would frequently have 9999 yards to go to the next turn.

I spent a freaking long time trying to plumb the AsBuilt Data (.abt) of the APIM to try and find the setting would sort it.  My progress so far is here:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/19oroStPr5WlZD-sKa2VZzHZiV2_nc0R4yM2ylRnsuVU/edit?usp=sharing

The only way I could do this was to enter the APIM diagnositc menu (hold next track and eject until a speaker test starts).  Inside one of those menus is a text list of the APIM configuration which correlates to the bytes in the .abt.  By changing the .abt a bit at a time, then rechecking the diagnostic screen I could see what was changing.

Well, in the end I had tweaked every setting to do with 'nav' I could find to no avail, so I then thought the problem might be in the IPC .abt.  Problem was I couldn't find a text-list configuration to compare setting changes to.

Thankfully, @Luke_Anderson very kindly sent me his .abt files for APIM and IPC and I had another fiddle.

After making backups (for those following!) I wrote his IPC config over mine.  No change.  I then did the same with his APIM.  Viola, turn data was showing correctly!!  Thanks Luke.

However, that's not the end of this.  I restored my IPC over the top, to see if it was a combination of settings across the modules that was required but no, everything stayed fine.

 

But Luke's APIM settings weren't completely compatible with mine - I haven't got a reverse camera (yet!), for instance.  Out of interest I restored my own APIM backup, expecting to see the turn by turn go crazy again, but it stayed fine?!  Not only that, but a couple of other options I know Luke hasn't got enabled (eg, the climate repeater onscreen) remained disabled after I restored my own data!!?

I fully cycled the ignition (locking the car, waiting 2 minutes, etc) after changing the data to see if some settings don't apply immediately, but that's also not the case.

I did find when 'decoding' the APIM data, that even Ford got some of the settings backwards, for instance, the settings to enable/disable the door keypad and the ambient light menus onscreen are controlled by the same bit (digit) in the .abt.  Changing the bit tallies with the text description in the hidden configuration menu, but the actual effect is the opposite, as though the functions have been crossed over in the programming.

Anyway, I have the Nav fixed now, I've lost the climate repeater (not too bothered as it didnt work properly anyway) and I can;t get rid of the Sirius Travel Link menu in Mobile Apps, but I couldn't care less.

 

Luke, I owe you a pint!

 

P.S.  Theres a thread I resurrected about the 9999yds problem - I'm going to post (some of) my findings there too.  I know other forums have threads on the same problem so hopefully It will help? 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just a little mod today:

Snorkel Delete (why isn't it just called 'removal'??)

Crap you will need:

Tools:: 

  • A small flat-bladed screwdriver (electrical or similar)

Materials::

  • None

Skills::

  • Ability to hold a screwdriver the right way round

Time::

  • About 10-15 minutes

 

So this mod 'deletes' the air snorkel which channels air from the intake at the front of the car, to the air filter.  On many cars, this ensures that cold air from outside the engine bay is drawn in, rather than air heated by the engine.  In the case of the Mk3 Focus, the snorkel is already seperated from the engine bay and its only function is to slightly reduce induction noise.  Apparently on the ST, the snorkel has already been removed.  This mod is reported to give a few more horses on the dyno.  Whether this is accurate or not remains a point for discussion, but I have certainly noticed a slightly quicker throttle response, and take-up from low speeds in high gears is significantly quicker and smoother.

 

Anyway. On to it.

 

Pop the hood.  We will be working underneath this panel:

20190917_095130.thumb.jpg.7d4b21841e0c34c81c8c6ed00dd9e002.jpg

There are 4 plastic bolts holding this down.  The bolts have an outper part, and an inner part to splay the bolt when pushed home.  Lever the inner part of each bolt up with a screwdriver in the notch:

20190917_095229.thumb.jpg.a82058eb059f98bb1d6a1743aafd8af2.jpg

These inners should lift up, but not necessarily all the way out.  Make sure you keep them safe and don't lose any.

Unclip the bonnet release cable from the two anchor points, and also remove the end from the yellow release lever:

20190917_095250.thumb.jpg.f5f1ea910c8cd967f1d6de93d455a3a6.jpg20190917_095318.thumb.jpg.24afb2e6d628d899cb16d67f033d0f35.jpg

From this point:  DO NOT CLOSE THE BONNET.  Or you will be stuffed!

Now prise up the outers of the 4 bolts:

20190917_095344.thumb.jpg.7fe496587edc08a83a1202b287a49188.jpg

and remove:

20190917_095347.thumb.jpg.f8faedfcbef863c634797719f59e0259.jpg

Now this doesn't allow the whole front panel to be removed, but allows enough access to get the snorkel.  Take care, but flex the panel upwards to gain access:

20190917_095445.thumb.jpg.42c8c56836cf09b5865ab1becb0ac430.jpg

Peekaboo.

20190917_095516.thumb.jpg.f06c5c1c91fd7934b8e4560352254950.jpg

this tube with holes in is our snorkel.  It attaches with 3 bolts identical to those used on the upper panel.  One is at the left hand end, and two are eithe rside of the join with the intake.  That 90 degree bend increases air friction, which is why we are removing it!

20190917_095519.thumb.jpg.bcd818a7bee1f4fca99cc71790db8b77.jpg20190917_095526.thumb.jpg.4433b9aa8ea00724ff201e892d721f73.jpg20190917_095540.thumb.jpg.b9fa705178bd8119c799645d5d0cf913.jpg

Not very clear where the bolts are in these pictures as there isn't quite enough room to get the camera in and for some reason these pictures are upside down, so the engine bay is at the bottom.  You can prise the whole snorkel away from the front of the car to release the bolts, but it is safer to lever the bolts out in the same way as before if you can.

Once you have removed all 3 bolts, the snorkel can be removed:

20190917_095939.thumb.jpg.dd3f87536350881f43bbd4e1be609c8d.jpg

aaaand...er... deleted??

delete.thumb.jpg.f25e903e94a335facdb2b592d2a4a59d.jpg

 

Put the 4 bolts back in the upper panel, outers first, then push the inners in.  DO NOT FORGET THE BONNET RELEASE CABLE!!!

 

Done.

 

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Phil21185 said:

Quick update as to some things:

Yonks ago when I upgraded to Sync 3, I had an annoying problem where the turn-by-turn instructions on the dash would be out of sync with the main display by a factor of 256 - I would frequently have 9999 yards to go to the next turn.

I spent a freaking long time trying to plumb the AsBuilt Data (.abt) of the APIM to try and find the setting would sort it.  My progress so far is here:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/19oroStPr5WlZD-sKa2VZzHZiV2_nc0R4yM2ylRnsuVU/edit?usp=sharing

The only way I could do this was to enter the APIM diagnositc menu (hold next track and eject until a speaker test starts).  Inside one of those menus is a text list of the APIM configuration which correlates to the bytes in the .abt.  By changing the .abt a bit at a time, then rechecking the diagnostic screen I could see what was changing.

Well, in the end I had tweaked every setting to do with 'nav' I could find to no avail, so I then thought the problem might be in the IPC .abt.  Problem was I couldn't find a text-list configuration to compare setting changes to.

Thankfully, @Luke_Anderson very kindly sent me his .abt files for APIM and IPC and I had another fiddle.

After making backups (for those following!) I wrote his IPC config over mine.  No change.  I then did the same with his APIM.  Viola, turn data was showing correctly!!  Thanks Luke.

However, that's not the end of this.  I restored my IPC over the top, to see if it was a combination of settings across the modules that was required but no, everything stayed fine.

 

But Luke's APIM settings weren't completely compatible with mine - I haven't got a reverse camera (yet!), for instance.  Out of interest I restored my own APIM backup, expecting to see the turn by turn go crazy again, but it stayed fine?!  Not only that, but a couple of other options I know Luke hasn't got enabled (eg, the climate repeater onscreen) remained disabled after I restored my own data!!?

I fully cycled the ignition (locking the car, waiting 2 minutes, etc) after changing the data to see if some settings don't apply immediately, but that's also not the case.

I did find when 'decoding' the APIM data, that even Ford got some of the settings backwards, for instance, the settings to enable/disable the door keypad and the ambient light menus onscreen are controlled by the same bit (digit) in the .abt.  Changing the bit tallies with the text description in the hidden configuration menu, but the actual effect is the opposite, as though the functions have been crossed over in the programming.

Anyway, I have the Nav fixed now, I've lost the climate repeater (not too bothered as it didnt work properly anyway) and I can;t get rid of the Sirius Travel Link menu in Mobile Apps, but I couldn't care less.

 

Luke, I owe you a pint!

 

P.S.  Theres a thread I resurrected about the 9999yds problem - I'm going to post (some of) my findings there too.  I know other forums have threads on the same problem so hopefully It will help? 

 

Please do Phil. Mine worked fine then I changed something. I thought it was branded IPC with nav. So changed it back the other night and it’s still giving me the 9999 issue. 

Let me know how you solved it. Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites


@Tommo17, have a look here:

I didn't find the exact reason why, but loading in a 'working' APIM .abt, then restoring my backup, just made it work??!

If @Luke_Anderson doesn't mind, I'll send you the data he sent me. It doesn't contain any critical or personal data, but still, he sent it to me as a favour so I would want him to ok that first. 

Back up your .abt, then overwrite with the donor one and see if you're good. Then restore your backup. 

 

First though, just try disabling the climate repeater. You never know...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

59 minutes ago, Phil21185 said:

@Tommo17, have a look here:

I didn't find the exact reason why, but loading in a 'working' APIM .abt, then restoring my backup, just made it work??!

If @Luke_Anderson doesn't mind, I'll send you the data he sent me. It doesn't contain any critical or personal data, but still, he sent it to me as a favour so I would want him to ok that first. 

Back up your .abt, then overwrite with the donor one and see if you're good. Then restore your backup. 

 

First though, just try disabling the climate repeater. You never know...

Thanks Phil. Yes I’ve disabled climate repeater, damn thing was doing my head in. On the bright side I’m just waiting on parts arriving and I’m fitting front sensors and auto park feature. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So that didn't help?  Just a thought.  As I say, I'll put up Luke's .abt files once he gives a nod.  You can grab AsBuilt data from the Motorcraft website if you have a VIN number.  And you can get a VIN by going to ETIS and entering a reg number from Autotrader or somewhere, using this trick:

http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/26546-ford-etis-reg-lookup-trick/

 

Ooh, make sure you do a guide for the sensors and autopark!  I'd be very interested in doing that!!

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

50 minutes ago, Phil21185 said:

So that didn't help?  Just a thought.  As I say, I'll put up Luke's .abt files once he gives a nod.  You can grab AsBuilt data from the Motorcraft website if you have a VIN number.  And you can get a VIN by going to ETIS and entering a reg number from Autotrader or somewhere, using this trick:

http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/26546-ford-etis-reg-lookup-trick/

 

Ooh, make sure you do a guide for the sensors and autopark!  I'd be very interested in doing that!!

Luke’s said it’s fine above mate. 

Will do shouldn’t be to hard I hope. Just need to run the cables in. And change the sensors on the rear wheels that’s the last thing I need. Will post on here when and if it works haha 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

D'oh! Didn't see that! Will sort that out for you tomorrow.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi, Phil. I'm just working on sync2 update from facelit sync1 but I still just only one thing. I need to take the MS-CAN +/- signal for GPS (I have the module already installed behind the rear mirror) and pull to pins 16-17 of the APIM connector. On Luke's guide it says to take from the AC control connector, I know the blue one, but... do you know which wires I have to chose from this connector? Which pin numbers? He made the guide for pre-facelit and I don't know which differences can have with facelit.

TIA

 

accontrol.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, simrad said:

Hi, Phil. I'm just working on sync2 update from facelit sync1 but I still just only one thing. I need to take the MS-CAN +/- signal for GPS (I have the module already installed behind the rear mirror) and pull to pins 16-17 of the APIM connector. On Luke's guide it says to take from the AC control connector, I know the blue one, but... do you know which wires I have to chose from this connector? Which pin numbers? He made the guide for pre-facelit and I don't know which differences can have with facelit.

TIA

 

accontrol.jpg

I think Luke already answered this for you on the conversion thread.  I'm not entirely sure if there are any differences between the wiring colours for pre- and post-facelift models (though I thought facelift focuses all came with sync2 already??).

 

Pin 16 from APIM --> Grey/Orange wire in blue plug

Pin 17 from APIM --> Purple/Orange wire in blue plug

 

I'm sorry - I don't have pin numbers for you so you will have to hope that the colour scheme is the same!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, Luke awnsered my question, but I'm still thinking about this two wires. In my actual configuration, on my 4" screen of my facelit I can see clima information when I start it (I cannot control but can see temperature and configuration) and also I have the emergency assistant, so I'm supposing the MS-CAN+/- should be already on the SYNC, the ACM or the FDIM connector (I don't know, its impossible to find a wiring diagram for my 2015 focus)... Any case, I will look for that wires on the clima control and connect. 🙂

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If your coming from sync 1 then the wiring is the same regardless of whether it’s prefacelift or facelift 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites


  • 1 month later...

GUIDE:: Fitting Front Sensors and Autopark (with conditions) - MK3

This is a supplemental guide to @Bannko's excellent work which can be found here:

 

Have a read through the instructions there first.  The main difference between the two guides is this guide is for adding the wiring from the car to the front bumper for the front sensors.  This method does not require sourcing of appropriate pins as we will be taking them from the car itself.

Throughout I will refer to Driver/Passenger side - this is for a RHD vehicle.

We will also be cutting your car's wiring.  If you are uncomfortable with this, do not proceed.  If you follow the instructions carefully there will be no problems, but I accept no responsibility for any issues which may arise, nor does FordOwnersClub or any of its members or users.

Crap you will need::

Already present:

  • Mk3 Focus (prefacelift)
  • Rear sensors
  • 3 plugs in the boot (as described in Bannko's guide)
  • Correct wiring for the dash buttons (likely there if 3 plugs are present, more on this later)
  • You can follow instructions below to check for these elements.

Parts (Finis codes and part numbers in Bannko's thread):

  • Active Park Assist Module - for Mk3 (not Mk3.5)
  • Front bumper loom (Mk3 or Mk3.5) - Most looms for sensors I've seen come with foglight plugs.  If you do not have front fogs, they can be retrofitted, or left unplugged.
  • Sensors - There are 3 different types, you need two of each.  Use the catcar link in Bannko's thread to get correct part numbers (change the car to CB8 2011-2015 for Mk3) 
  • Brackets - for the sensors.  3 different types - The flat ones as found on the rear, 2 of these.  The outer brackets are specially shaped and are left and right handed.  1 each of these.
  • Front Lower Grille - The central sensors attach to the lower grille, either side of the numberplate.  This can be swapped over without having to change the entire front bumper.
  • Rear ABS Sensors - FACET 21.0186 are one manufacturer of the correct type - around £11 new (instead of £120 each directly from Ford...)

Tools

  • T25 torx driver, right angled for ease
  • Electrical screwdriver (or similar small prybar for removing plastic bolts holding the front bumper on)
  • Soldering Iron
  • Wire cutters
  • Dremel style tool appropriate for cutting accurate holes in the front bumper
  • Sim removal tool, needle or similar  - For removing wires from plugs - familiar to you if you have upgraded Sync 1 to Sync 2/3!
  • Multimeter may be useful

Materials

  • Stranded Wire (approx 30m)
  • Electrical tape
  • Kitchen Roll
  • Solder (+flux, etc)
  • Heatshrink Tubing
  • Silicone sealant

Skills

  • Soldering (strongly recommend against scotchlocking here)

BEFORE BUYING ANY PARTS:::

Check for 3 parking module plugs:

  • Undo the two T25 torx bolts on the Driver's side parcel shelf support in the boot.
  • Peel back the carpet over the wheel arch (tricky but can be done)
  • Check you have 3 plugs there - may already be plugged into the Rear Park Assist Module
    • If not, this retrofit is still possible, but you will need to add the wiring from the boot to the front of the car for the front sensors and the dash buttons.  There is info on this in Bannko's thread as another user has done this, but this guide does not cover it.

Check for dash button wiring: 

  • If you have 3 plugs, you should also have the appropriate wiring in the dash for the buttons
  • Remove the passenger side centre console panel (it pulls away from the front first) and check you have these wires:
    2DE70866-DEC7-4891-BD6C-42A053227F69.thumb.jpeg.00583c840cb12181348e2f0d5064e892.jpeg.ff5a5be24945a39f98ced5ede453055c.jpeg
    Credit to @Tommo17 for this picture.
  • NOTE: These wires will be bound with the main loom on your car and may not be these colours.  
    • If you have wires going to the same pins in the plug as shown here (4 in total), then you have wiring to the dash button.
    • If not, you will have to add them.  This is discussed a few pages into Bannko's thread.

Check for sensor wiring at the front of the car:

  • If you have 3 plugs, you should also have wiring for the front sensors already in the passenger footwell, but let's check.
  • Remove the glovebox: 
    • 2x T25 torx bolts at the top when you open it.
    • 1 at the side nearest the door, behind the small panel with the passenger airbag sticker on it
    • 2 underneath in the passenger footwell.  Remove the small carpet and search with a torch.  They are hard to see.
    • Pull the glovebox forward and unplug the lihgt at the right hand side.
  • Behind the glovebox, you should have this plug:
    20191005_161629.thumb.jpg.c19bf519f90a70ddf6bdb6df884f7eff.jpg
  • I have obviously undone it here, but it is left of the fuse panel.
  • Check you have these 8 wires on 'plug' side (not the 'socket' side, fixed to the car with the grey lever attached):
    20191005_162254.thumb.jpg.2da77ff3ec6e13ac6b67b843f8e2f1fd.jpg
  • I believe I had flipped the plug over to better see these wires.  They are pins 25-32.  The wiring colurs should match yours but there may be differences - I had a red/white wire instead of what the schematic said I should have - just be aware of this.
  • You should notice that you do not have the corresponding wires on the 'socket' side of that connection.

 

Check the wiring at the bumper:

  • Take the front bumper off (videos on Youtube explain better than I can here). 
  • If you have front foglights, you will need to disconnect the loom between the engine bay and the bumper.  It looks like this:
    20191004_101137.thumb.jpg.de24ed17ff7f5c218bdaf9a9f39cff11.jpg
    • If you do not have this plug, it is still possible to retrofit, but you will need to find a plug from a scrap car.
    • If you have this plug and it has more wiring than shown above (8 more wires to be exact) then this is your lucky day!  You can follow Bannko's guide in its entirety as the whole system will be plug and play for you. You smug git.
    • If your plug looks like mine above, then continue reading.
  • As mentioned above, this guide is mainly for adding wiring for the front sensors to the engine bay harness.  This will be described in detail, whereas for general fitting of parts, refer back to Bannko's guide.
     
  • If you have got this far, and everything on your car matches what I have described above, then you need to make a loom of 8 wires to go from the passenger footwell to the bumper plug.  This is easier than it sounds, though parts of it are a little tricky.
     
  • First, you need 8 lengths of stranded wire approximately 3m in length.
  • Disconnect the battery (we don't want an airbag going off) and unplug the connector in the passenger footwell:
    20191005_161623.thumb.jpg.d752dad28327e35f7dd831acad52b53d.jpg.327d863ccf54970c5e18c8e3979dad38.jpg
     
  • Unclip the grey cover over the end of the plug:
    20191005_161634.thumb.jpg.e78d5da8eb320910501ee3e9158fac20.jpg
     
  • This will reveal the pins.  Relocate the 8 wires from above, Pins 25-32. If you look carefully you should see a number 1 at one end of a row of pins on the plug.   You can use this to count to the correct pins:
    20191005_162254.thumb.jpg.2da77ff3ec6e13ac6b67b843f8e2f1fd.jpg
     
  • Using a needle or similar, lift the clip which retains each of these 8 wires and remove the pins one by one.  I haven't got a picture for this, but you will see what needs to be done.
     
  • Cut these 8 wires off.  We want a careful balance here: as much wire attached to the pin as possible, but also a reasonable amount left attached to the car so we can comfortably strip and resolder to them later.  I recommend around 5-6 inches of wire attached to the pins, if possible.
     
  • Put the grey plastic clip back on the end of the plug and reattach the plug with the retaining lever.
     
  • Now use these 8 pins to make your loom.  I took a small piece of wire from each of the pins to attach to the OTHER end of my loom - for easier identification later (we will be matching wire colours when re-attaching to the car).  This is not necessary, but will make life a LOT easier!
     
  • Top Tip:  When you are ready to tape all your wires together, wrap them first in strips of kitchen roll or similar.  Wrap round the wires at a rough 45 degree angle, so that the strips overlap each other slightly.  Then do the same over the top with electrical tape.  By doing this, it enables the wires inside to slide past each other so you can form curves in your loom.  The very ends of your tape binding should be on the wires directly though to prevent water ingress.
     
  • You should end up with something like this:
    20191006_144329.thumb.jpg.64e7105b065f2a16d9fb34f44b9113fd.jpg
     
  • Now we have to re-attach it to the car.  With a cold (or slightly warm if you like!) engine, remove the engine cover under the bonnet.  On the firewall there will be a large rubber grommet shaped a bit like a bell, with a thick loom of wires coming out of it:
    276705488_20191009_124411-Copy.thumb.jpg.7d147fe9209dfb4940d6c4054ae81f93.jpg
     
  • Not a very clear picture, sorry about that!  The inside of the grommet is above and to the right of the passenger footwell fusebox, behind the soundproofing material.  You will see wires coming out of it. Now you have a choice:
    • Either undo the electrical tape on the grommet (inside and out) and attempt to pass your wires through as well.  This was what I did but it was extremely difficult as there is not much space left in the grommet.
    • Or, pierce a hole in the grommet to pass your wires through and use silicone sealant afterwards to seal it all up.  This would definitely be easier, but be sure you do a good job of sealing the hole afterwards.
       
  • It is possible to remove the grommet slightly to aid the work, whichever method you choose:
    20191009_124427.thumb.jpg.5ff4c048850fc552773f9dfa13899df7.jpg
     
  • Be sure to pass the cut wire end through the grommet, from outside to inside!! We want the pins at the bumper! Once through the grommet, carefully pull enough of your loom through to the inside of the car to reconnect to those wires we cut earlier, leaving enough on the outside to snake through the engine bay and down to the bumper.
     
  • Now strip and solder the wires we cut in the footwell back onto our loom.  By colour coding the ends of the wire as I recommended, this should be straightforward colour matching.
     
  • Back under the bonnet, route your loom from the grommet, round the back of the battery box and down in between the battery and the fusebox.  You should have the bumper off at this point and can join up with the bumper loom around this point.
     
  • Now you need to add the pins to this bumper connector:
    20191004_101137.thumb.jpg.de24ed17ff7f5c218bdaf9a9f39cff11.jpg
     
  • There are clips on the front and back of this plug similar to the one in the footwell earlier.  You need to remove both.
    20191009_131717.thumb.jpg.87dcd028174886c93c44fe98fd68a8c3.jpg
     
  • The rear clip has plastic pins to prevent water ingress to unused pin slots.  We will need to snap these pins off where we want to add wires.  You can do this by bending them back and forth with your thumb.  Be careful not to remove the wrong ones.
     
  • Underneath this is a light blue rubber seal.  We will need to pass our pins through this as well.  They will fit!
    20191009_132042.thumb.jpg.f0be03a3b41fcf57e8b00181a9d862f4.jpg
     
  • Now, the schematic I had did not match the pin numbers for the two sides of the connection, so I simply matched the colours when passing the pins through the clip and seal.  However, to seat them in the plug properly, it must be disconnected.
     
  • It started chucking it down at this point so I had to speed the job without taking photos.  After passing the pins into the plug, they will click past a retaining clip, like the ones we lifted to remove pins from the footwell plug.  But these retainers only stop the pins being pulled back out of the plug, not secure them in place and you will find that they will flop around all over!
     
  • Once all the wires are though, line up the pins in the clip that was removed from the front and carefully replace the clip and wires together.  Do the same for the seal and rear clip and connect it up the the sensor loom!

Congrats, the hard work is done! For fitting and programming of all the parts, refer back to Bannko's guide!

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good guide Phil. I’m going to be sad when I take control of a DS. Nobody attempts stuff like this with them haha

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't do it. The French don't know how electricity is supposed to work in cars...:)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Hi Phil, I am trying to use your guide to fitting sync 2, but for some reason I can’t see any of the pictures you added with the guide. Would you know the reason for this ?

thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share





×
×
  • Create New...

Forums


News


Membership