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gooty

URGENT help needed 2006 Focus 1.6 tdci (need for holiday in 2 weeks)

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The cog/exclamation warning light came on. Car completely cuts out at 3000RPM.

Google suggested glow plugs/glow plug relay.

Replaced glow plugs but still same. Cant find relay and unsure if theres also a separate 'glow plug module' too???

Friendly local garage used meter to clear loads of fault codes but two remained. Said they were NOT glow plug related but to do with eolys fluid low and DPF.

However it also said eolys fluid had been squirted 10Km ago, so they were confused.

Any ideas?

Spent £30 on glowplugs and can see this going......

£60 relay.....NOT THAT

£50 eolys fluid..... NOT THAT

£????? DPF clean..... NOT THAT

 

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31 minutes ago, gooty said:

two remained. Said they were NOT glow plug related but to do with eolys fluid low and DPF.

The Eolys additive and DPF regen systems on these cars are complex & often a bit weird.

A system called Forscan can help diagnose the system. It will read & clear the codes, and also read lots of stored information about the eolys level, DPF regen frequency and estimated life left in the DPF. It needs a Windows laptop ideally (the phone apps have reduced functionality), and an ELM237 adapter. The software is free, the adapter is about £16.

It can also initiate a Forced Regen, as Clive suggests above.

The alternatives are to rely on a good local garage that may or may not have the experience, or go to a Ford dealer, who may or may not be a bunch of useless crooks :ohmy:, but either way will charge quite a lot.

Given the codes and other diagnostic info, there are people on this site who may well be able to help, but without good information like that, we are all just guessing wildly.

I can give more info on Forscan if you want to go that route.

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yes please.

 

do i need a usb one as need to order adapter asap from ebay and dont want to get the wrong one?

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5 hours ago, gooty said:

do i need a usb one as need to order adapter asap from ebay

USB adapters are generally more reliable, especially for data download, logging and updates. Also slightly cheaper. So that is the best type if you can use it.

Forscan is an internet co-operative venture, primarily based in Russia, I believe. Outside Western Europe, distances to a main Ford dealer may be huge, and the need for reliable diy diagnostics & maintenance is much more acute. The system is reliable and comprehensive, but a bit basic in places and does take a little getting used to. For instance, you have to click a button to connect to the car, and also click on a button to save information to log files. It does not do these things automatically. It is a good idea to save DTCs etc. to log files before clearing them.

I think all the DPF & Eolys systems are on the main HS-CAN bus, so a "modified" ELM327 is not strictly needed, but it will be better to get the modified version in case of other problems. The modification is a Ford specific thing, to access the MS-CAN bus that Ford use in most cars, and is present in the DLC (diagnostic connector), but on pins that are not part of the international OBD standard, as used by all car manufacturers.

-------------------------------------------

My standard intro to Forscan:

Forscan is a powerful Ford specific system, Cost is about £16.00 for the interface. It needs a computer of some sort. (COM port, USB, bluetooth or WiFi interfaces available). You will find a lot about ELM327 & Forscan on this site, which together provide a very comprehensive diagnosis & maintenance tool. James (jeebowhite) has done a nice guide: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=21196

The Tunnelrat ELM237s have been reported to work well by several people, and are stated to be compatible with Forscan and ELMConfig.

https://tunnelrat-electronics.fwscart.com/

Forscan works best on a Windows laptop, with a USB ELM.  Forscan is also available for iOS & Android for some tablets & phones, using USB if available, or bluetooth or WiFi ELMs. But there are some limitations.

Wireless ELMs are often not as reliable as the wired ones. Also they are rarer in the "modified" form which is needed to access the 2nd Ford bus system. This 2nd bus is the MS-CAN bus, and links all the car interior electronics like door modules, and the BCM (aka GEM). But a standard ELM will still work with all the Underbonnet Modules (PCM, ABS etc) and with the IC (Instrument Cluster).

The Forscan programme is free (in Windows format) and you can get it from:
http://forscan.org/download.html

Note: Simply reading the codes can do no harm, and does not change anything. Just do not reset the codes (and you would have to ask the scanner to do this) if you are going to take the car to a garage.

 

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It arrived today :)

 

do i I load the normal forscan or wine edition?

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3 hours ago, gooty said:

do i I load the normal forscan or wine edition?

wine is a version for Linux users, I believe (WINdows Emulator). Boring, sadly not :wine:!

So the normal Window version. Sometimes the USB driver for the ELM is found automatically, sometime it can cause a bit of a headache to find or get one.

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hooked it up and my first question is....

1) its showing this message. How do I know which way the toggle switch needs to be to set HS/MS can switch to MS can bus position?

 

3.jpg

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second, third and fourth questions...

2) what's required to clear these faults?

3) Do these tie up with the COG/EXCLAMATION mark warning light?

4) If my car wont rev over 3000rpm without cutting out, will forscan override this to do the 4000rpm needed for forced regen (assuming thats whats needed)?

 

1.jpg

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3 hours ago, gooty said:

second, third and fourth questions...

Q1: MS/HS CAN bus switch: Just try it, Forscan will give an error message if it is set wrong, as it will not be able to talk to the specified modules. This switch physically connects your computer to either the MS or HS CAN bus, Forscan will know which is which.

Q2: First save a log file of the DTCs. Go to the DTC section, at the bottom of the screen there should be a save log option. Then at the bottom of the screen will also be a clear DTCs button. Use this.

Q3: The DTCs are definitely connected to the problems you have, and the light being on. But bear in mind the DTCs are not the problem, quite the opposite. They are trying to help and inform. Clearing the DTCs will clear the light, but they will come back if the underlying problem is not fixed.

Q4: Try it. Clear the DTCs first. Ensure the car is somewhere where a lot of noise will not be a problem. It is a very noisy procedure. I do not think it is Forscan that really controls the process, I think it is a procedure built in to the car, that is initiated by Forscan. It can also be initiated by a garage using the FOrd IDS system. But I could be wrong here. However, I would advise checking the level in the EOLYS tank first. Any use (including forced regen) of the car without EOLYS will make the problem worse, not better. See below.

The DTCs are interesting, but as is often the case, they raise almost as many questions as answers. The software in these cars is far from perfect, but then what is perfect in this Techno age?

P1922:This is from another Forscan session:

===FACM DTC P1922-60=== Code: P1922 - Fuel Additive Level Circuit Status: - DTC Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Fuel Additive Control Module Diagnostic Trouble Code details Fuel Additive Level Circuit If DTC P1927 or P1932 are present, resolve them before continuing. This DTC illuminates the PCL. This DTC may be caused by : fuel additive tank empty or additive level too low visually check the additive level by illuminating the tank from the side Refill the FAT if necessary. CAUTION: Always refill the FAT in accordance with the workshop manual instructions and then carry out the "Refill the Fuel Additive Tank" service function. Open circuit Short circuit to ground FAT level sensor unserviceable FACM unserviceable NOTE: After configuring a new FACM always refill the FAT in accordance with the workshop manual instructions. Make sure that DTCs are cleared from both FACM and PCM after repairs are completed. ===END FACM DTC P1922-60===

As far as I know, there is no actual level sensor on the 1.6TDCI. It counts the number of injections of EOLYS additive, and signals empty when the count reaches a preset value. But it looks like it thinks the tank is empty. The tank is quite hard to get at, and even harder to see the contents, but it can be done.

P2585 is a request from the FACM (additive module) to put the warning light on. It is probably just due to the P1922 above. It is how the modules talk to each other in the car.

P2459: DPF regen frequency: If the additive has run out, then the DPF will be unable to regen properly. That could cause this error. The additive reduces the ignition temperature of the soot, and enables it to be burnt off in the DPF.

P0087: Fuel Rail/System Pressure - Too Low.

That is an odd one. It does not seem related. It could be an old code, from a filter change or something. When you delete the codes, see if it comes back.

So it does seem to come to one of the comments in your first post, Eolys level too low. Filling the tank with the proper fluid is a moderately expensive job, but nowhere near as expensive as replacing a DPF. There are cheap substitutes, like JLM PAT fluid, but I do not know if they work. One person used it and then got P242F, DPF blocked by ash, a few days later. It is likely his DPF was already marginal, and the running out of EOLYS finished it off, so it may be nothing to do with the fluid, but I can not be 100% sure.

Using the car with no EOLYS will clog up the DPF quite quickly. It works inside the engine, as the fuel burns, to combine with the soot to make it more burnable. Once the soot has formed without EOLYS, it may be very difficult to remove.

This thread has some info, though the quoting is a bit confusing. And there was no conclusion, unfortunately, the OP did not say what happened in the end.

 

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UPDATE: After trying static regens (both failed) and fitting a new diesel filter, the car is no longer in limp mode.

The only code I have now is P2459.

Any advice appreciated

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