• Join Premium & Save
      Join Premium & Save
    • Savings Up to 15% Off For Members
      Savings Up to 15% Off For Members
    • Huge Range of Ford Parts
      Huge Range of Ford Parts
    • Share Your Car Experience
      Share Your Car Experience
    • Get Your Club gear
      Get Your Club gear
    • 1000's Of Fords For Sale
      1000's Of Fords For Sale

AdBlock Warning

Parts of this website do not function properly with AdBlock enabled on your device. To get the best user experience on our website, please disable Adblock for this website (domain) on your browser.


gooty

Eolys level reset with forscan query

Recommended Posts

I've filled the eolys tank with 1.5ltrs, but it didnt come out of the overflow pipe so assume it needs more.

Can I reset the level with forscan saying its full, even though it isnt?

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

I couldn't wait, so tried what I thought was correct but its all gone wrong :(

1) I selected 'refill'

2) I selected 'prime'

3) I tried selecting 'reset' but it wouldnt.

4) I tried 'static regeneration', but half way through a message came up saying that it had failed and to try again.

5) 'static regeneration' failed again.

 

Incidentally these different fault codes are showing now, but at least the 'cog/exclamation mark' warning light is now gone.

OLD

 

1.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 15/08/2017 at 8:16 PM, gooty said:

NEW

Have you cleared the DTCs from earlier? It looks like they are all still there, with some new ones added. So it is hard to see what is current.

If working on the car yourself, then after saving a log of the DTCs, it is always a good idea to clear them, to see if they return. If taking the car to a garage, all DTCs should be left.

I would clear the codes, do a FACM reset, and then the fill & prime procedures again. BUT ....

U0073 - Control Module Communication Bus OFF

This is a commucations error on the HS CAN bus somewhere.

P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor Malfunction.

I think all Diesels have ABS, so will not have a VSS as such. This code will be due to incorrect information received over the HS-CAN bus from the ABS unit, since the ABS shows no errors.

 P1935: BRAKE SWITCH SIGNAL IMPLAUSIBLE

This switch goes to the IC.

P1936: CLUTCH SWITCH SIGNAL

This switch also goes to the IC.

P1938 FORD – Brake Switch/Sensor Signal

As above.

P1934: VEHICLE SPEED SIGNAL (possibly)

As P0500 above.

There is also one comms error in the IC. In itself, this is not unusual when doing diagnostics, but when combined with the error codes above, and the year (2006) of your car, it strongly suggests to me that the IC is starting to misbehave. This module is one end of the HS-CAN bus, containing the important terminating resistors, and is also the bridge linking MS-CAN to HS-CAN, so carries a lot of data around. The 2006 Focus ICs are notorious, the most common problem being bad soldering on the connector at the back of the IC.

It looks like this is confusing any DPF problems. Running a static regen requires a lot of use of the HS-CAN bus, so IC problems could cause failure. The garage were confused by the DPF DTCs too. If they are due to CAN bus (IC) problems, then that would explain that too.

Have you managed to connect to the MS-CAN bus (assuming your ELM has a switch?)  DTCs here would provide further clues.

Any other symptoms, odd lights or displays? IC faults usually do light the "Cog" lamp.

Try tapping on the facsia around the IC, see if it causes error codes or odd problems.

This may be a red herring, but all those odd codes appearing are hard to explain by any other cause. The next most likely one is that the ELM237 is causing the odd codes, while in use. I think I saw it was WiFi, and that is the hardest protocol to match to the ELM interface & CAN protocol. Was it one said to work with Forscan & EMConfig?

Keep saving the codes, and clearing them, before each new test or operation.

Caution: If the connection to the IC fails completely, the car will be immobilised. So do the tests at home, or where immobilisation is not a total disaster. The fault is fixable if it does happen, but may take some time.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

hi peter,

after putting in 1.5ltr of eolys (it wasnt enough to come out of the overflow pipe), I used forscan to check 'refill', 'prime' but it wouldnt let me 'reset'.

I tried static regen twice, but it failed both times half way through.

However, the cog/i warning lamp went off and the 2nd lot of codes appeared (shown above), but it was still cutting out at 3000 rpm.

today I changed the oil filter and it runs like a dream :) -remember there was a low pressure fuel code.

I cleared the codes and now all I have is P2459

Ive tried yet another static regen, but it failed again.

I know its not cutting out at 3000rpm anymore, but is there a way to clear this final code?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, gooty said:

I cleared the codes and now all I have is P2459

Ive tried yet another static regen, but it failed again.

I know its not cutting out at 3000rpm anymore, but is there a way to clear this final code?

With no Eolys errors showing, and with fluid in the tank, it should be ok to drive the car now, and I suggest trying a few decent length runs to see if it will do an active (normal) regen. It does this while driving. High speed should not be necessary, but it does need to be fully warmed up. I think the regen process can continue even in urban driving at 30mph.

Forscan can tell you if a regen has taken place, you have to set a list of PIDs to read, then read them.

Any error in the car, like the low pressure one, or the Eolys one, would prevent regens, and lead to the frequency error (P2459). Hopefully it will now do them. Then the frequency code may go, or be possible to be cleared.

I suspect your ELM is less than perfect, and may be causing the forced regen to fail, along with the other list of odd errors. It is either that or an IC fault, as I said above, but there are not really enough comms errors (U codes) to justify that at the moment.

The P2459, on its own, is not urgent. Use the car, keep checking codes, and see what happens. Good news about the fuel filter.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

After all of the effort I've put into this mend (replaced glowplugs, new oil filter, new genuine ford bonnet lock, top up eolys, new oil/oil filter etc.), I've decided to take the dpf off and jetwash its inside.

Removing the dpf was straightforward using this german youtube clip below.

The only hard bits were undoing the two rusted bolts holding the back of the dpf to the flexi exhaust and actually sliding out the unbolted dpf.

I thought the jetwash would have blown out loads of black carbon, but there was only an occasional small clump the size of a smartie sweet. The total would have probably filled 2 egg cups by the end. The bulk of what came out was this red rusty looking water. It seemed to just keep coming until finally it turned clear. I googled more youtube clips of professional dpf cleaning by water and theirs were the same.

Its all bolted in now, with a new genuine ford metal exhaust gasket between the dpf and flexi exhaust (only £5). I also had to get two new replacement bolts to tighten it up. All I've got to do now is put them in today and I'll start it up and post what happens.   

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OUTCOME:

When I started it up, the cog/i warning light had returned, and it was in limp mode.

I drove it to see if the DPF needed drying out, but it was really sluggish in every gear.

Using forscan, I reset the fault codes, and the warning light was gone. So was the limp mode. It drove better than it ever has before. The acceleration was incredible. I took it for a half an hour drive up the motorway at 80mph in fourth gear at 4000rpm.

when home, I used forescan again. It still had code P2459 (maximum number of regens reached). I wanted to do a static regen to see if I could get rid of it now that the dpf was clean, but it failed again half way through. Realising that the code was obviously stating I had reached the maximum allowed, I reset it. However, this option says that you must not perform a static regen afterwards.

I checked the codes and now there are NONE!!!!!! The car drives like a dream. Hopefully it will do an active regen whilst driving like it should do.

I'd like to thank peter for all of his help and hope that this post will help others in the future :) 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now