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Liam94

Injector seals

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I realised my no4 injector seal had gone so I went to change it disconnected the fuel pipe and electrical connection and I couldn’t get the injector out because of the carbon deposits around it and the intake manifold was in the way so I put it back together and went to start it and the engine was turning over but not firing as if it was being starved of fuel I cracked off the injectors to bleed them but there was no fuel coming out and now it won’t turn over at all even though the battery is fine all the electrics still work on the car. 

Any help on this problem would be greatly appreciated 

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You'll probably need a hand primer to at least pull fuel through to fill the fuel filter, hopefully the fuel pump will deliver enough pressure to push the bit of air out that is past the fuel filter and in the injector system.  The DV6 engine has a reputation for being a bit of a cow to start once air is within the fuel system but from what I've seen it's usually okay if you've got a hand primer pump to hand.

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I'd probably go with Damian. Check there's diesel going to the pump. You can get a hand pump which creates a vacuum pushing the diesel to the fuel pump 

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I can try that but after cranking it over a few times it’s stopped turning you can hear the starter solenoid engaging but there’s nothing else all the electrics work though as well 

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Diesel engines take a lot of AMPS to crank, if the remaining power in a battery is below a certain level it won't have the "grunt" to physically crank the engine but could still have enough power to run lights/radio for a while.  Also a battery on it's way out will not be able to deliver peak AMPS for very long.

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Just got a multimeter from work and checked it the battery still has 12volts in it there’s power getting to the starter solenoid cause you can hear it clunking when you turn the key 

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if I'm wrong, someone please correct me, but a multimeter is not the right tool for checking a battery, it will still read 12 volts even if it's flat.... you need to use a specific tool that bridges the terminals to test the current, not the voltage, or , measure the specific gravity of the battery fluid, again with the right kit.

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You can test battery voltage like that, but it needs to be more specific.  You're looking for over 12.6v really, under 12.5v and it's likely to be low enough not to start.

Obviously a proper battery health test is ideal...but he'd need to take it to a garage or motorfactors for that.

 

Did you remove the injector or any part of the intake?  It's possible something dropped in and has locked the engine if so.

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You should never crack an injector pipe off a common rail injection system . The high pressures involved can be very dangerous to your health

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3 hours ago, iantt said:

You should never crack an injector pipe off a common rail injection system . The high pressures involved can be very dangerous to your health

The kind of hazardous that cuts arms/fingers off!

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You  can’t check the specific gravity on the battery as it’s a maintenance free one also I didn’t remove the injector and you can check the voltage in a battery using a multimeter 

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The kind of hazardous that cuts arms/fingers off!

the kind of hazardous that if it sprays on your skin it will get in your bloodstream and that is life threatening. thats how serious high pressure fuel systems are.

was only discussing this yesterday.

and a good option is indeed cut the affected arm off to stop bloodsteam transmission to the rest of the body . but be quick about it !!

 

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8 hours ago, iantt said:

the kind of hazardous that if it sprays on your skin it will get in your bloodstream and that is life threatening. thats how serious high pressure fuel systems are.

was only discussing this yesterday.

and a good option is indeed cut the affected arm off to stop bloodsteam transmission to the rest of the body . but be quick about it !!

 

People watch videos or learn from the 'old techs' mech diesel methods and try to apply that to CRs...  The amount of times I see on facebook groups people trying to bleed DV6s through the solid pipes it's amazing more of them don't end up full of diesel...  

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9 hours ago, Liam94 said:

You  can’t check the specific gravity on the battery as it’s a maintenance free one also I didn’t remove the injector and you can check the voltage in a battery using a multimeter 

Can you try a jump start just to see if it is the battery?  You didn't say how much over 12v it is...if it's 12.1v it's dead...

You may have burnt the starter out if you were turning it over for long periods at a time.  Remove it and bench test if possible.

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Nah starter motors not burnt out I only kept it turning for a few seconds each time and I’m going to try to jump start it and use some easy start to get it running and the pump should kick in and for the people commenting about the common rail I know it bleeds itself and it’s high pressure and what it can do you you if it injects into your skin but as it was making the same noise engines do when there’s air in the system stopping the fuel getting through I thought it was worth a try 

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5 hours ago, Liam94 said:

Nah starter motors not burnt out I only kept it turning for a few seconds each time and I’m going to try to jump start it and use some easy start to get it running and the pump should kick in and for the people commenting about the common rail I know it bleeds itself and it’s high pressure and what it can do you you if it injects into your skin but as it was making the same noise engines do when there’s air in the system stopping the fuel getting through I thought it was worth a try 

The problem with the DV6 engine (amongst others) is unless the air in the system in a really small amount it won't/can't push the air out, the diesel engines in Ford's don't really self prime (which is helpful!).

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The problem is they didn't bother fitting a lift pump...  

Even a hand primer like the old mech diesels had would  be useful...in fact the 1.4TDCi Fiesta has one, just none of the others. :unsure:

 

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I don't know if you managed to get the injector out. They can be very stubborn after moderate mileages. The only way I've found to persuade them out if they're carboned in is to get the inlet manifold off and then you can get a decent grip on the injector body and rotate them backwards and forwards until you break the carbon down. Some egr cleaner might help left for a while.

The starter motors aren't that robust and not designed for lengthy cranking and can overheat pretty quickly so best to leave a bit of time in between cranks to cool down a bit. The only way to effectively prime the system is with a bulb type primer. Pull the fuel through on the outlet side of the fuel filter then fill the feed pipe to the hp pump with a syringe or similar and quickly reconnect to the filter outlet. This normally gets you going within a couple of cranks. Good luck.

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on my dv6 i found it very problematic to get it running after changing fuel filter. This included having to recharge battery twice. And sucking fuel up the pipe with my mouth (as I had no primer). I fitted some clear pipe on the end so I could see when the diesel was getting near my mouth but I still got a load in my mouth, not very nice and best avoided.. Succeeded in getting it running eventually.  

Bear in mind a diesel uses a huge amount of power from battery when starting. Because the compression ratio is a lot higher than a petrol engine so needs a more powerful starter motor, but also the glow plugs are using a lot of battery power as well.  And that also means that for jump leads to help then need to be really good quality cable with good clamps. Not some naff 'christmas present for dads' type

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Connected it up to my mates car on the jump leads and it was sparking from the positive terminal and there was blue sort of fuzz from the alkaline leaking out of the terminal so I changed the battery and it’s still making the clunking noise but not turning over even though it would turn over a bit when it was on jump leads 

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