Has Fuel Pump Died?

[auldreekie]

After 15 good years with this car my daughter's 02 Mk1 Focus Ghia 1.8 TDDI approx' 85000 miles has decided to become unco-operative for her. It cut out and had to be towed home by breakdown company. It has since refused to start.
I took off the top bolts of timing case cover pulled it back a little to check the timing belt, it is still intact and as firm as I'd expect, timing belt was replaced at 50000 miles. No visible fuel leaks, battery is less is 6 months old. I noticed two broken wires from the EGR connector, I'm not sure if this would prevent a start even it is was rough.

I Plugged in Elm 327 from Tunnelrat connected to laptop with Forscan did DTC scan and was greeted with several PCodes. I assume the EGR codes are because of the two broken wires, the others had me concerned.
Module: Code:
PCM P0404 EGR out of Range
PCM P0409 EGR Valve Position Sensor , Open Circuit
PCM P1564 FIP Requesting reduced fuelling mode
PCM P1608 FIP Watchdog Signal Lost, dtc maybe caused by open circuit, signal shorted to ground or signal return, supply voltage to FIP out of range.
PCM P1664 FIP Malfunction, timing chain tension
PCM P1665 FIP communications with PCM, Open Circuit, supply to FIP out of range

This is the first time I've used a OBD reader, Is the p codes above looking like the Fuel injection pump had died?

My daughter does not have a lot of money and We are wondering if it is worth repairing, She reckons a fuel pump reconditioned for this old car can be expensive and maybe more than the car is worth. Any advice would be much appreciated. 

[Tdci-Peter]

18 minutes ago, auldreekie said:

I noticed two broken wires from the EGR connector, I'm not sure if this would prevent a start even it is was rough.

I am fairly sure that an EGR fault will not cause the car to stop, or fail to start. Usually it just puts the warning light on, on some engines it may cause reduced power mode, but these are usually DPF or other later engines.

The FIP fault sounds electrical to me, a failure in the signals to the ECU. If two wires have broken on the EGR connector, maybe some connections have failed on the fuel pump connector.

I would guess that the P1664 timing chain tension error is actually due to bad or varying timing signals from the FIP to the ECU, relative to the crank sensor. So it could also be down to connection problems.

[JW1982]

The DTC P1564, P1608, P1664 and P1665 code will be caused by a defective diesel injection pump. This is a known problem of the Bosch VP30 pump that is used on this type of engine (and also many other types of engine). The question with these pumps is not if this problem occurs but when.

Most problems of the Bosch VP30/VP44 pump are caused by the electronics of the pump. A transistor on the circuit board of the pump is known to be the weak link and often burns out. 

 

If you are handy with electronics and a soldering iron there is a 90% chance that the problem can be solved by replacing the transistor. If I remember correctly (it is a long time ago that I worked on one of these pumps) the electronics are casted into a rubbery resin. In this case the resin needs to be removed to have decent access to the circuit board.

[Tdci-Peter]

12 hours ago, auldreekie said:

She reckons a fuel pump reconditioned for this old car can be expensive and maybe more than the car is worth.

If it is an internal electronic fault as Wilco suggests (he is usually right!), then one option would be a repair, I have seen the service offered for £40, though you would have to remove & refit the pump. See:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/REPAIR-SERVICE-Bosch-VP44-VP30-Diesel-Fuel-Injection-Pump-PSG5-EDC-EDU-Module-/131672808505

(I have no info on the quality of this service!)

[auldreekie]

Can the module be removed in situ or does the whole pump need to be completely removed from the engine?

[Tdci-Peter]

16 hours ago, auldreekie said:

Can the module be removed in situ or does the whole pump need to be completely removed from the engine?

From photos of the engine, the module is on top of the pump, and should be accessible, though it is under a couple of high pressure fuel pipes. From the description of the removal operation on the eBay website above, it looks like removal of the module alone should be possible, albeit not easy. But then very few jobs are easy on cars now!

[auldreekie]

Thanks for the info folks, I'll post back the results when the job is done ...shudders😀

Might get my son to do it, he has very steady hands, I'll supervise🙄

[isetta]

I read the eBay instructions and it mentions cutting four black wires. Not sure how easy these are to access and how easy to mark them to identify each one (it says cut them all different lengths so you can tell which is which). Not clear how much length of wire there is to play with, particularly when trying to reconnect them and insulate them on refitting.

I assume each wire does something different hence it is vital which way they are connected, but why all black?   sounds tricky.

If it was me I would give it a go.

[auldreekie]

Yes I seen that about cutting the wires and I understand it's to easily identify which wire belongs to which. Question is what method is used for rejoining them? Somehow I don't think wrapping wire together and sealing it up with electrical tape is the answer ...I maybe wrong of course.

 

[Tdci-Peter]

1 hour ago, auldreekie said:

what method is used for rejoining them? Somehow I don't think wrapping wire together and sealing it up with electrical tape is the answer

You are right to ask. I would guess either solder them back and seal with hot-melt shrink wrap sleeves, but that is quite a technical solution. Or just use a terminal block. I know the reliability of terminal blocks under the bonnet is questionable and the screws rust, but at the moment the car is useless! I have several terminal blocks around my engine (carrying non-critical signals like extra temperature sensors), and they have survived ok for a few years now.

I think there is room for terminal blocks or sealing wraps. The 4 wires seem to go into that sleeve that runs down the back end of the pump to the black plastic bit in the middle.