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Micro

Ford Focus 2010 1.6 (100PS) Timing Belt

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Right. After being run around by a few garages and getting fed up with Ford in general (who doesn't replace the tensioner when doing the timing belt?), i've decided to investigate a bit futher into doing it myself. I have read the Ford guide (less words than i'd like), and just want to confirm with someone who has done this themselves. The car is a Focus 2010 - "Focus 2008-, 1.6L Duratec 16V PFI (100PS) Sigma". Is the water pump worth doing at the same time, if i'm doing myself? I understand that it is not run by the timing belt, so not a complete removal required if it does need replacing.

 

Extra tools required:

Engine locking tools - https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/laser-4347-timing-tool-set-3096-updated-fo/:

  1. C -  C311 21-259 | 303-748 Crankshaft Timing Tool
  2. D -  C312 21-162B | 303-376 | 303-376B Camshaft Alignment Plate

Pulley holding tool (for tightening the pulley bolts) - i.e.  http://www.lasertools.co.uk/product/2869

I have access to a 600mm breaker bar, electric impact, various 3/8 and 1/2" socket sizes up to 24mm.

Following the pictures sent by Stef (thanks buddy!) the only things I have questions about are

  1. Turning the engine via the crank shaft, does the crank turn clockwise (to the front of the car), or anticlockwise (to the rear)?
  2. Do you need to support the crank pulley whilst trying to loosen the crank bolt? Is an impact ok (if I can get it in there!)? How likely is it that the pulley will be seized on the crankshaft (comments previously about needing a puller on it!)?
  3. It says the crankshaft sprocket is not keyed to the crankshaft. Does the crankshaft pulley hold the sprocket in time? 
  4.  On fitting the belt (anti-clockwise), will the crankshaft stay in place, or does the belt need to be held in place til tightened +  tensioned?
  5. I only have a standard torque wrench (minimum 28Nm), for angular torque can I mark the bolt and work the angles out from that?

Certainly more willing to have a go, increase my own confidence, and I will hopefully have a mechanically minded buddy with me too. Will know by the end of this month whether I am going to have a go, plenty of video will be taken if so to try and get a video guide done of this exact engine.

Timing belt on ECP showing as: https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Ford_Focus_1.6_2009/p/car-parts/belts-chains-and-tensioners/engine-parts/timing-belt-kit/?348778516  however looking up the number on the belt in the picture, it appears to be the incorrect Finis equivilent (1675963 instead of 1823388 - which is showing in the Ford Parts catalogue). Does someone have the correct Finis number for the 1.6L 100ps engine?

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First of all, for some unknown reason that kit does not come with cam shaft bolts. So you'll need to get them.

I'd recommend as a first timer you get hold of a flywheel locking tool and use that too. Takes 10 mins to drop the starter motor and bolt it in place. Re use the starter bolts to hold it in place but you will need a couple of M8? Nuts, oo-err. 

Waterpump is entirely your decision, most of these belts I've done including one recently for @Russ have chosen to leave the pump. 

1. Turning ghe crankshaft, you should only turn it in a clockwise direction, so as if you were tightening the bolt.

2. Not sure what you mean by supporting the pulley tbh but with the crankshaft locked in place you are free to batter that bolt out lol. In the past I've had to put heat on the crank bolt to break the bond but now I use a Milwaukee M18 fuel impact and that bolt does not stand a chance lol. 

3. There is no key on the crank or cam pulleys, so yes the bolts need tightened correctly in order to hold the pulleys and keep the timing right. 

4. The crankshaft will stay in place, the cam pulleys will still be loose until you release the tensioner, which pulls the belt into place. Then you tighten then cam pulleys. 

5. Off the top of my head I'm trying to think what bolts are angle tightened. The crank bolt is angle tightened 90 degrees, I don't use a gauge I just put a small mark or tipex on it for reference. 

Have fun with the stretch belts though, helps so much if you have the tool for them. 

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41 minutes ago, stef123 said:

First of all, for some unknown reason that kit does not come with cam shaft bolts. So you'll need to get them.

I'd recommend as a first timer you get hold of a flywheel locking tool and use that too. Takes 10 mins to drop the starter motor and bolt it in place. Re use the starter bolts to hold it in place but you will need a couple of M8? Nuts, oo-err. 

Waterpump is entirely your decision, most of these belts I've done including one recently for @Russ have chosen to leave the pump. 

1. Turning ghe crankshaft, you should only turn it in a clockwise direction, so as if you were tightening the bolt.

2. Not sure what you mean by supporting the pulley tbh but with the crankshaft locked in place you are free to batter that bolt out lol. In the past I've had to put heat on the crank bolt to break the bond but now I use a Milwaukee M18 fuel impact and that bolt does not stand a chance lol. 

3. There is no key on the crank or cam pulleys, so yes the bolts need tightened correctly in order to hold the pulleys and keep the timing right. 

4. The crankshaft will stay in place, the cam pulleys will still be loose until you release the tensioner, which pulls the belt into place. Then you tighten then cam pulleys. 

5. Off the top of my head I'm trying to think what bolts are angle tightened. The crank bolt is angle tightened 90 degrees, I don't use a gauge I just put a small mark or tipex on it for reference. 

Have fun with the stretch belts though, helps so much if you have the tool for them. 

Hi mate, just going off the Autodata book - warns multiple times that the crankshaft sprocket is not keyed to the crankshaft... But then doesn't mention holding the crank at all! So although the pin stops the crank in the clockwise direction, when you put the belt on anticlockwise in my mind the crank will be able to move (which I've just answered myself, as it's all loose, once you tighten the cams up they're all locked, and when you tighten the pulley bolt, it'll all be against the pin, so will time it all up). 

I've heard mention of breaking the pin off if tightening the pulley bolt against it... But can't remember where or who said it! Specifically says to hold camshaft pulleys, does not say hold crank in the Autodata instructions.

Only the crank bolt angle tightened. Have you ever had problems getting the crank pulley off one of these engines and needing a puller?

ECP seems to have a hard time matching my car with correct parts, although the contitech aux belts come with a fitting tool (and the Dayco ones also say "fitting tool" in extra info, might need a trip down to check everything is in order before buying).

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I have done loads of timing belts over the years but only where the crankshaft pulley is keyed to the shaft. These engines are well scary when you think of bending 16 valves - you would feel suicidal if you get it wrong.

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53 minutes ago, isetta said:

I have done loads of timing belts over the years but only where the crankshaft pulley is keyed to the shaft. These engines are well scary when you think of bending 16 valves - you would feel suicidal if you get it wrong.

That's what scared me initially, that I could literally destroy the engine in one fell swoop. Also why I asked if the crank can actually move backwards by itself once locked - if it can't, then when you put the belt on, there is no chance of it coming out of time.

Then I thought about it a bit more - and why in probably becoming annoying on here asking questions - because the Ford procedure (and Autodata procedure) warn of all the problem areas - and then get you to run the engine over two cycles by hand after anyway, so if it is out, I'd imagine you'd feel abnormal resistance anyway.

Still plucking up the courage to buy all the stuff and get it done... Maybe I'm just a cheapskate, or don't like to be fobbed off for hundreds, I don't know.

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You'd do well to bend all 16 valves, there's only a few left open when the belt snaps. :wink:

The bigger issue is snapping the head off the valve, which then bounces around the cylinder mashing the head up... :laugh:

End of the day, a snapped belt will wreck the engine anyway so don't worry about it too much imo. :smile:  If the worst happened, how much is a used 1.6 petrol engine these days?  Probably less than Fords labour cost to change the belt...

I've not done a belt on this engine so can't comment on the crank key issue, but can comment on angle torque...  I bought two different torque angle gauges for headbolts, both were useless...  I've just marked the bolt head and done it by eye ever since without an issue.  

 

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1 hour ago, TomsFocus said:

You'd do well to bend all 16 valves, there's only a few left open when the belt snaps. :wink:

End of the day, a snapped belt will wreck the engine anyway so don't worry about it too much imo. :smile:  If the worst happened, how much is a used 1.6 petrol engine these days?  Probably less than Fords labour cost to change the belt...

But if the timing is actually wrong, the cams will carry on turning at an incorrect timing to the crank, so i can imagine a few more valves might come a cropper.

You can get a whole 1.6 car (08) for £900. Not that the engine is going to be broken at any point... I only get about 5 days off, so some very busy days off if it were to go pearshaped!

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Unless you have the flywheel locking tool, there is no real way to hold the crankshaft 100% solid. As i said earlier, for a first timer I would seriously recommend the flywheel locking tool for piece of mind. Ultimately a £25 tool that can be sold is better than £££'s worth of damage that will still leave you with the same problem lol.

 With the correct timing and locking tools, these engines are nothing to be scared of. It actually irritates me more to remove and refit the cam cover lol. 

Stick to the procedure in the book, don't make any steps up yourself and use the correct kit, best advice i could give to be honest.

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5 hours ago, stef123 said:

Unless you have the flywheel locking tool, there is no real way to hold the crankshaft 100% solid. As i said earlier, for a first timer I would seriously recommend the flywheel locking tool for piece of mind. Ultimately a £25 tool that can be sold is better than £££'s worth of damage that will still leave you with the same problem lol.

 With the correct timing and locking tools, these engines are nothing to be scared of. It actually irritates me more to remove and refit the cam cover lol. 

Stick to the procedure in the book, don't make any steps up yourself and use the correct kit, best advice i could give to be honest.

Definitely and all taken on board. It's quite nice when all the little bits of knowledge I had about how engines work all come together when the missing pieces are put into place.

Besides, the tools can be kept or passed onto someone else needing to do this job - hoping that I will be able to get some video, or at least a full set of pictures of all the steps - as it seems there is no real good guide for doing it! It's still cheaper buying kit + tools and 3 hours of my time, than working the 36 hours required to pay a garage to do it.

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Interesting little scout round the internet. So what I can make from all the info is that the tensioner style has changed - from a tensioner with two bolts, to a tensioner with a single bolt through the middle (like the one on ECP). However, the one on ECP, does not appear to have the correct part number on the belt in the picture - the one in the picture is actually for the Ford Focus mk3 (and larger engined MK2's).  The teeth and width dimensions are correct though.

I have reached out to Fordpartsuk for the correct Finis number belt for my car. I believe it may be 1823388.

The cam bolts, and crank bolts, are available from a Ford dealer on eBay for a couple pound each so will obtain those if the kit does not come with them. I have paypal free return shipping til the end of the year so can send the unused length ones back.

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Went to ECP today for the aux belts, turns out they don't have an install tool with them so they will need to go back. An OEM Ford kit with both aux belts and install tool is £27, these were £23 together.

I got them to show me the timing belt kit from Dayco they say is valid for my car as no Dayco part number on the website. It turned out to be KTB764, which does not say it is for the mk2 facelift Focus. It includes belt, tensioner, two crank bolts and tensioner bolt. The kit Dayco say is correct is the KTB461. The difference is that the KTB764 does not have replacement cam bolts, and appears to have a more robust - newer compound/make up - of belt. Still has the correct 117 teeth and 22mm wide.

Interestingly, the Finis number shown by FordPartsUK for the 1.6 Focus 2008+ is 2045356 (does not contain Cam bolts). They show 1672144 as being 2005-2008 Focus 1.6 (but only included in a kit with the waterpump). I'm trying to ascertain with Ford and FordpartsUK which is actually the correct Finis number for my engine...

I'm more than a little confused...

Edit: Further research

Gates list two belts, 5433XS (< 2005) and 5669XS (>2005, Finis: 1672144). 

Dayco list 94671 and 941049, with 94671 compatible with my car, but 941049 the one that matches the Finis number from FordPartsUK.

Conti-tech list only the CT881 as compatible for all Finis numbers i've tried (and a match for both Gates product numbers, and my car).

I've had a look on Microcat, which doesn't have the Finis number on FordPartsUK on a search. Aside from bolt content of the aftermarket kits, it looks as if the belts are all identical in dimension spec, tooth count and tooth style. Tensioners in all the kits are identical between kits.

@stef123 last question I promise, do you have a solid Finis code/aftermarket kit for the 1.6 100ps  engine timing belt? 

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bloomin eck this is getting complicated :lol: 

I don't have any part numbers to hand but I've never been this in depth about part numbers lol. The belts are all the same dimensions as far as i know, it's really just the variation in tensioners.

I've fitted a mixture of Gates and Dayco belts in the goodness knows how many I've done of these belts now. Where are you buying your parts from? Can you pm me your reg? 

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4 hours ago, stef123 said:

bloomin eck this is getting complicated :lol: 

I don't have any part numbers to hand but I've never been this in depth about part numbers lol. The belts are all the same dimensions as far as i know, it's really just the variation in tensioners.

I've fitted a mixture of Gates and Dayco belts in the goodness knows how many I've done of these belts now. Where are you buying your parts from? Can you pm me your reg? 

I think i've narrowed it down. The tensioners appear to be the same between kits (KTB461/KTB764). I ordered the Dayco (now known to be KTB764) from CarParts4Less as they said if they were wrong about it fitting my vehicle they'll collect it for free, and at £28 with discount, not to be sniffed at. That puts the final tool cost at £67.35, and parts cost at £60 approx.

Searching online Microcat for 2045356 brings up 3 compatible vehicle listings, but with two different Finis numbers for the belt (Focus III 1.6 Ti-VCT 1823388 (96MM 6K288-BA) and C-Max/Ecosport 1675963 (BM5G 6K288-AA)). I'm not sure how you have two different finis numbers under one kit finis number, but that's possibly where the confusion has started. Dayco list for the Focus III 1.6 Ti-VCT compatible products as Belt: 94671 (in the KTB461 kit), but list the compatible kit as KTB764.

Both manufacturing numbers above map to CT881 on Contitech's website. On Gates, 96MM 6K288-BA maps to the belt for <2005, and BM5G 6K288-AA maps to >2005. As you say, the belts look identical otherwise, and the tensioners are the same, just the bolts differ between kits.

I am phoning or chatting to FordpartsUK or a local dealer in the morning to finally decipher what is going on from someone with an up-to-date catalogue in front of them. I love a good ol' mystery solving challenge... If i'm still getting nowhere, i'll PM you stef!

Edit: Summary:

SKF and Contitech list 2045356 + 1672144 + 1823388 + 1675963 as the same belt. Gates list the >2005 belt as 1672144/1675963. List 1823388 as < 2005.

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Spoke to FordPartsUK + Trust Ford Parts,  they said that my belt kit is 2045356, and the belt part number in that kit is 1823388. This doesn't match the Dayco site as they say 94671 matches 1823388 and 941049 matches 2045356...

I have been in touch with Glen (National Technical Manager) at Dayco, who say they produce the OE belts for Ford.

Quote

Dayco are the only OE produces for this application, the Ford belt was produced by us,
In this case the kits contain two different belts the HT belt (white PTFE coated) is for the latter application, the standard black belt belongs to your application.yes, they are the same size but are off a different construction, the HT belt is designed for a system that has a higher and more aggressive application (high pressure fuel pump etc)

Dayco produce the parts according to the requirements of Fords Motor Company, we also produced the parts according to their stated requirements and specifications, with the advanced engineering of high pressure fuel system it was requested that Dayco should produce a belt that has a protective coating over the belt teeth. Therefore, there are now two different part numbers for these belts, HT and none HT.

 

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3 hours ago, Micro said:

Spoke to FordPartsUK + Trust Ford Parts,  they said that my belt kit is 2045356, and the belt part number in that kit is 1823388. This doesn't match the Dayco site as they say 94671 matches 1823388 and 941049 matches 2045356...

I have been in touch with Glen (National Technical Manager) at Dayco, who say they produce the OE belts for Ford.

 

Nice bit of research mate, nicely done.

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On 11/28/2017 at 8:09 PM, 1979Damian said:

Nice bit of research mate, nicely done.

This thread is a little messy, I am going to (hopefully if I don't forget) get lots of pictures/video and will do a full write up once done - and will include the research side of it separately.

Collecting the M14x80 crank bolt + washer, and two cam bolts tomorrow from Ford. Having read the 79/2009 TSB regarding the cam bolt changes, my car build date is approx 2 months after they changed from the M12x44.5mm bolt, so expect it's the newest one. It's got to have 100Nm, then + 90 degrees, wait 10 seconds and +15 degrees (i'm getting my protractor out!).

Have got hold of a newer Ford timing belt procedure for my car, it now does state to use a flywheel locking tool.

Should have a result (yay or nay!) in just over a week (borrowing my friends garage). Thanks for all your help guys, makes you feel more confident with lots of minds together!

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And the result is...

Fallen at the first hurdle. Attempting to get the wheel off and the locking wheel key rounded off... Knew I should have put normal bolts on them when I had the chance.

Hopefully can find my key card and will try with a new key, and then can get started!

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9 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Oops!  Are they solid lockers or do they have an outer spinning ring?  

 

Outer spinny i think with the flower shape in the middle. Asked a tyre place and they told me £5-£20 a wheel depending on how long it takes, so tempted to try a new key first and then that as a last resort. Already have 4 new nuts as bought 20 replacement solid ones.

Last tyre place put them on with the impact. Tried to get them off, impact, and then two on the wheelbrace which resulted in it rounding.

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Flower shape is just McGard but they come in both solid or spinny.  Takes seconds to remove the solid ones with an oversized socket...  Spinners are a bit more difficult but still possible.

I believe the keys are ordered from Germany so may take a while to get here, depends if you can wait.

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4 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

Flower shape is just McGard but they come in both solid or spinny.  Takes seconds to remove the solid ones with an oversized socket...  Spinners are a bit more difficult but still possible.

I believe the keys are ordered from Germany so may take a while to get here, depends if you can wait.

I will have to enquire at some local garages tomorrow as to removing them - unless they have corroded solid, they are indeed the solid ones. The key just cams out of all of them now, doesn't look like the nut is damaged aside from a few little marks where the key has cammed out - the key certainly looks more damaged and a little corroded than just one turn... it is 8-9 years old after all.

I have contacted McGard in the mean time, don't particularly want to spend £13 just to take the nuts off and leave them off, with no guarantee that this key won't also shear due to the sheer amount of torque these have possibly been put on with. Lesson learnt, do not let tyre places go full blammo with the air gun.

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If your key is knackered anyway and you don't need it again, there is one more thing you can try for free.

Use a bar, not a ratchet, longer the better (I've got a 3ft breaker), and put a little anti clockwise pressure on the locking nut just before it would slip, then repeatedly hit the knuckle of the bar with a heavy hammer/mallet while maintaining some pressure on it and you might find it starts to undo in small increments. I've taken a few off this way.

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4 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

If your key is knackered anyway and you don't need it again, there is one more thing you can try for free.

Use a bar, not a ratchet, longer the better (I've got a 3ft breaker), and put a little anti clockwise pressure on the locking nut just before it would slip, then repeatedly hit the knuckle of the bar with a heavy hammer/mallet while maintaining some pressure on it and you might find it starts to undo in small increments. I've taken a few off this way.

I will have a go tomorrow, i'm going to see if i can clean the inner part of the key up a little first. I'll be ringing the tyre place that swapped my winter tyres on too and see if they can get them off (i'm hoping for free, they put the ***** things back on!). I did consider buying the Laser locking wheel nut removers, but without a vice, I think i'd get a little stuck getting the nut out of them. Squirted a little penetrating oil behind all of them tonight too to see if that helps.

If they come off tomorrow, I may possibly attempt the belt on the drive. Not ideal, but this was my only real free time to do it and otherwise it'll have to be next year :sleep: the car was manufactured in October 2009, so is over 8 years old now, possibly not borrowed time but feels like it.

Urine'd off is an understatement, almost feels like i've lost all motivation to actually do the job now! Hopefully it will return once these damn things are off!

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On 12/8/2017 at 12:00 AM, Micro said:

I will have a go tomorrow, i'm going to see if i can clean the inner part of the key up a little first. I'll be ringing the tyre place that swapped my winter tyres on too and see if they can get them off (i'm hoping for free, they put the ***** things back on!). I did consider buying the Laser locking wheel nut removers, but without a vice, I think i'd get a little stuck getting the nut out of them. Squirted a little penetrating oil behind all of them tonight too to see if that helps.

The largest laser tool wouldn't fit over the locking nut without fouling on the alloy, so those were returned. I'm pretty sure they're the non-rotating type from memory of spinning them on by hand before finishing with the torque wrench.

I have ordered a new key from McGard, £13 delivered from Germany, have been informed that the keys are guaranteed for life so I have asked them if they will accept a return from me, and if it is valid for warranty replacement, if they would just refund my £13 for the new key. It certainly looks a lot more damaged when I compare it to my parents key (which doesn't fit, and is only two numbers different to my key code!). Doing some reading, i'm going to use the key on the other three locking nuts first as they're undamaged, (not that I believe the drivers wheel one is damaged, just a few little witness marks from the damaged key), and use an axle stand/jack under the wheel brace and/or breaker bar/socket to support it in the vertical and prevent it slipping off the nut. 

 

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