Guide to fitting an additional Reverse light and clear lens fog unit to your focus,
this Guide is now available in PDF Format making it even easier to follow because you can print it out and keep it to hand.
The Following Materials are required
Fabric Car Loom Tape Click Here
FLAME RETARDANT Insulation Tape Click Here
Twin Core 15Amp 12V DC Cable 4 Metres Required Click Here
Focus Mk2.5 LHD Reverse Unit, FINIS1505706 Part Number: 8M5115500 AB Click Here
Bulb Socket Connector From a Focus Mk2 or Mk2.5 Breakers Yard
Additional ReverseBulb P21w BA-15s or Cree Q5 Bulbs Click Here
Red lens fog light bulb P21w BA-15s or Cree Q5 Bulb Click Here
To Begin this Modification on your ford focus, ensure the car is in a parked position with the handbrake engaged and the keys are in your pocket,
Then lie down under the rear bumper behind the driver's side right hand side of the car, put one hand at either side of the fog light unit and squeeze the clips towards the centre of the light and gently push out towards the rear of the vehicle.
The unit will pop out of place, once it has then gently remove the fog light bulb socket from the casing and bring the casing to your bench or work area that you have setup the rest of the equipment on.
Once the unit has been successfully removed from the rear of the car, set up the Dremel or Similar Cutting tool, with a fine cutting tool attachment fitted to the drill, gently scribe around the flat surface of the bulb housing support tube on the red lens fog light unit.
It is better to cut this section off as a large piece and sand it down to a smooth flat surface instead of cutting straight through the bulb housing support section because by paring it to shape you will get a better bond and a tighter fit to the clear lens unit.
The Image above this text displays the only two parts required from the red lens fog light unit, on the left of the image we have the bulb housing support section which has been sanded down to the desired shape using a sanding attachment on the Dremel, and on the right of the image we have the fog light bulb housing and clear bulb, this bulb will be replaced with a red tinted version or a Silvatec mirror finish with red illumination, depending on personal preference.
The rest of the red lens fog light unit can be discarded for recycle waste.
Using the bulb housing support section from the red lens unit as your template measurement, hold it against the rear of the clear lens unit and circle around it with a felt tip marker. Line this support section up on the rear of the housing as far to the right as possible on the flat plate, this is to ensure both bulbs do not touch on the inside of the housing and that maximum clearance between the two bulbs is achieved.
Once you are satisfied with the marking of the location, fill the light housing with around 50ml of water hold it in the position shown in the image below, replace the bit in the Dremel with the first cutting tool attachment and begin to cut out a section in the centre of the markings, the same as the image below.
DO Not Cut the Full Shape with the Cutting Attachment on the Dremel
The reason for putting the water in the unit is because the plastic that is being cut away becomes very hot from cutting and begins to melt, so the water in the base of the housing will prevent the melting plastic fragments from bonding to the clear lens of the unit.
Once you have cut a shape out of the centre, change the bit in the Dremel back to the sanding attachment and gently bore out the hole to the specified size, shaping and checking the bore by holding the bulb housing support section up to the hole from time to time.
When the hole has been Bored to precision, take the clear lens housing to a running tap and wash out well with water ensuring all fragments of plastic have been flushed from the housing, I have found the technique of swirling the water downwards from the red strip easier to remove fragments that have become trapped in the red strip along the top of the unit.
When satisfied all of the plastic fragments have been removed from inside the unit, either blow dry the unit with a hair dryer or leave in a warm area to air dry, Prior to aligning the second bulb housing support tube and permanently gluing it in to place,
I found it easiest to tape down the bulb housing support tube in to position lining it up with the hole on the housing and taping it, Followed by circling the outer ring with plenty of glue and leaving it to dry for 24 hours.
While the housing unit was drying I got to work on the wiring for the reverse bulb, a quick check of the Haynes manual and apparently
Green/Orange is the Positive +
Black Feed is the Negative –
These are the colors of the cables feeding to the existing reverse bulb on the passenger side of the car,
So I will be splicing Green/Orange feed to the red on the second reverse unit and splicing the black feed to the black cable on the second reverse unit.
Although if you wish to save weight on the car, you can splice the Green/Orange Positive + feed from the existing reverse light with the red feed on the new reverse unit, and splice the black negative feed - with the black negative feed- that is feeding the fog light unit, On the same side as the new reverse unit is, This wiring configuration will work exactly the same as the first one but also save you a few grams on the rear of the car.
Once the correct cables have been identified on either side of the vehicle, splice the connection between the bulb socket and the new cable,
Then run the new red and black cable to the area that you wish to splice in to the existing reverse light unit. When you have reached the length of cable you wish to use, measure up a further 3-4 inches then cut the cable at that length,
You should now have a bulb socket for the second reverse light with a red and black cable spliced on to the rear of it, with just enough length to attach it to the exiting reverse loom,
To help protect the insulation on this cable it is advised that you wrap it generously with the fabric loom tape when wrapping with this Fabric tape, Use the Method Of: wrap over half of your previous wrap each time you rotate around the cable, keeping it as tight as possible, and ensuring there are no kinks or twists in the cable, again wrapping over half the tape each time. Keep wrapping until you reach the final length 2-3 inches of cable then stop and cut the Fabric tape from the roll.
Once the cable has been wrapped down to the final 2-3 inches of bare cable you can now fit the bulb socket to the car running the new loom along to the opposite side of the car and splicing in to the existing reverse light loom, when the clear fog light housing has dried it can be fitted to the car by pushing in from outside of the bumper.
The top of the loom where it joins the grommet, is wrapped in black electrical tape, remove this tape to expose the cables as saw in the picture below
Once the tape has been removed, take the stanley blade and gently cit a small slit in the mouth of the rubber grommet where the cable feeds in to the boot take care not to hit the fog light loom with the blade, the widening of this hole will make it easier to fish the new revers cable through the grommet and will be tapped up once complete so no water will enter the grommet.
I personally have fitted the new reverse unit in to the original socket in the clear fog light housing to make both reverse lights shine in the same directions both sides of the car, and I fitted the fog light bulb in the new bulb housing support tube fitted on to the side of the clear fog light unit housing.
I have also fitted two Cree Q5 reverse Bulbs in to the fitments which emit 6000kelvin white light and are equivalent to a 55watt bulb each, so that’s 110watts of light beaming from the rear of the car when reversing,
This is 100% Legal and a great help to anyone with tinted windows in the back of their focus.
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