I was offered an apprenticeship with ford before I got my current job... I've gotta be honest. After learning what everybody thinks of them I'm glad I didn't bother! Haha
I suppose in there defence to be fair;
Every business is out to make money, they have a certain level of income to achieve every month or there overheads will pull the plug,
Also if your an apprentice and you need to be trained on replacing brake discs,
The next car that comes in that door is getting new discs and this guys gonna train you
You may ask " what car is it"
Response "we dont know yet but its getting them anyway"
Love for the game soon goes out the window when the emphasis is on achieving monthly finances to guarantee yourself a bonus in your wages for achieving targets.
Hope it's sorted with the alignment Lenny and it doesn't happen again as that doesn't look safe.
You decided on what tyres you getting? Sticking with the same or a different set?
Sticking with AVON ZV5 cant fault them at all excellent grip especially in wet conditions.
Shower of feckers, I wouldnt let ford do anything like that for me. Theres only one place in town that i will only ever buy tyres and get the alignment done as i know they do a top job. You know theyre good when the local BMW dealer sends their cars over to be done.
Just on a side note, did you fit front camber bolts?
no mate i read up on adjustable camber kits at the time and the advice was you only need a front caster kit if fitting coilovers where the shock becomes more angled.
The eibach springs raise the front of the car by 20mm and drop the rear by 40mm so only rear wheel camber becomes excessive.
Id never go back to ford again,
Tried to charge me 28 euro for a rear wiper blade that time too.
I had just completed the guide on wiper change a few months previous so the wiper was 100%
Saw him try to charge an elderly couple 90 euro for new discs and pads on an SMax because they were rusty lol
Quick burst on the motorway would clean that.
I once thought because I'm an enthusiast my local ford dealer will see me rite lol no he will ride you even harder while admiring the modifications.
I defo won't be getting valentines pressie now
Cant be gettin a baby every year thankfully im working nights that week.
Dont worry theres always the EuroSaver menu in McDonnalds luv ill have a BigMac Meal cheers
I have no DPF (perhaps all 90PS with no DPF version) Will it generate more smoke ? Have you any experience with this? Will it hold the Euro emission values?
Ive had a ceramic dp: removed, egr blanked, green cotton induction filter, 2.5" dual exit exhaust, remapped to 125bhp went for MOT test and the carbon emissions are lower than a standard focus,
I reckon blanking the egr has had significant help in reducing carbon emissions as gasses dont recirculate.
Lenny man, lucky escape there buddy! The tyres wouldn't have lasted any longer I reckon. Do you know how many miles/km you got on that set?
So, excuse my ignorance, but does it mean that running negative camber wears out one side of the tyre quicker? Just wondering for myself now if/when I do lower the car with rear camber.
The Red Bull graphics turned out really well. Looks totally OEM. Can't wait to see it all in the car
Not sure exactly what milage i got on them mate but its between 50-60,000km fitted them in May 2012 ill be sued for Neglect but they looked alright from the outside.
Any sort of negative camber presses down on the inside wall of the tyre causing excessive wear of that area compared to the rest of the tyre,
After lowering your car it is strongly advised that your car is laser aligned to correct camber,
One would assume when a Ford garage prints "laser tracking alignment" on an Invoice after lowering your car on ford supplied springs.
This ment that they had carried out some physical work to correctly align the camber.
However the images above prove they never did,
Yes thats what happens Hassen, i have the same problem with my tyres at the moment and my car isnt lowered yet. Im not too fussed though as the tyres are on the car over two years now.
Does the camber bolts not eliminate your camber issues Lenny?
They were supposed to have been correctly aligned by Ford well the guy with the spur boots billed me for it anyways
But ive made arrangements to have it laser aligned at the local tyre place after they fit the new tyres.
But yeah mate the adjustable bolts give more presicion on adjusting the camber which makes it even more annoying that this has happend since it was ford themselves whom fitted the eibach adjustable camber bolts and lowering springs.
I have a Ford C-Max 2007 1.6 TDCI 90HP with 155.000km. Can I fit this blanking plate on my C-max and will be any fault codes ? And one more question: Should i clean the EGR before blanking?
Now no fault codes and no engine faults, but sometimes when starting the rpm is changing, and in gear 4 sometimes falling the power... PLS help me. I bought that blanking plate from ebay, but i'm afraid now from fit it, cause Ford service said it will kill engine.
Thx! : Xturics
In any case EGR is always best blanked,
Its the active EGR and DPF that are killing your engine,
Fit the blanking plate mate same engine as saw in this guide,
No error as result,
No need to clean before blanking as theres no advantage,
Do clean air inlet hose from airbox to turbo if desired with hot water only. No detergents as they will harden the rubber causing splits,
Ensure its dry prior to refitting.
Also upgrade induction filter to Green Cotton filter,
And if you live in Ireland and have 400 euro contact MFK for DPF removal before it kills your turbo.
They cut open the dpf remove internals and seal it back up looks like it was never touched keeps nct happy and lower emissions
Also use Wynnes engine flush on next oil change,
Ford dont want you to blank egr because the active egr is slowly killin) your turbo which will make them money replacing mate.
Capacitor looks cool!
And naughty you lol......Should always check across the full width of the tyre.
Thanks Jamie mate,
lol i never feel my tyres obviously replaced two front last September surly getting value out of tge rears,
Might swap left to right while the negative camber is in play; get another 6,000 miles on them
Fingers and toes crossed that it all works out. It would look awesome with the aluminium
It will be 3mm Strips of T305 Stainless if they snap,
Ok bit of a shocker today at Tyre Shop,
I have been experiencing heavy vibrations in the front passenger seat of the car since Christmas,
Ive felt this sensation last time i had a buckled 16" alloy and i assumed this was the case again on the 18" rim,
I went to my good reliable tyre shop to have the alloy removed for repair,
However he took the wheel off and checked balance:
100% no buckle
I was like WTF!
So he put it back on the car,
Checked the rear wheel and to my all out shock guys,
Here is the results of negative camber, im very lucky to be alive as this blow out would throw the car sideways and flip,
Check it out:
Outside of tyre looks ok but inside was driving on the wire yo!!
Feel like Kayne West "shot down through the wire"
The Best news is:
Both rear tyres are like this,
I'm rolling three 18's and one 16" at present,
They don't have any 225/35/18 AVON ZZ5 in stock there a special order at 135.00 each!!
Didn't plan on this news this month but there's no point building on loose foundations,
Its gotta be sorted and safe.
In aluminium news,
He was very busy in work today as a few mechanical problems arose so hopefully he can bend them tomorrow.
Overall moral today wasn't great after seeing the cause of my bad MPG and vibrations.
Until i got home and found DMB Graphics Delivery had arrived
And things went pretty awesome from there yo!
Also ordered a few items on eBay for February's update
Special thanks to Dave at DMB Graphics for taking the time to perfect the print for me,
Ben at Connects2 for supplying me with a top quality capacitor aswell as support during this modification via Twitter.
Seeking an International Finger Crossing tomorrow guys between the hours of 08:00 and 13:00
Got talking to a guy called David whom works in maintenance at work,
I explained my plan to have the aluminium strips bent,
He provided me with a Stainless Steel welding rod,
Told me to trial fit the welding rod in to the car with the amplifier,
Then bring in the aluminium strips along with the bent rod tomorrow,
Says he will bend the aluminium strips to match the shape of the rod
Here's the rod bent to shape
Need the top section cut where the arrow is:
So fingers crossed the aluminium strips don't snap during the bending process.
If sucessful with the bends; 6mm holes will be drilled in the aluminium strips where the blue arrows are in the image below,
The 7" Mono Amp will be bolted to the bottom two arrows using M6 bolts with Nylon lock nuts,
Upper two will also be M6 bolts going through the plastic panel aswell as a section of 9mm MDF followed by Penny washers and Nylon Lock nuts to spread the weight of the amp although its around 1.7kg in weight being a Class D amp
At some point in the past, the cars had one of the rear panels repainted and they've done a sh1te job. You can feel the metallic flakes in the paint. Wether that be the lack of laqcuer or what! That's all that's making me think twice about spraying it myself. Probably get it done professionally aswell as the rear panel sorted, thinking about it
Good plan there to get it done properly. I remember as well that with all the materials, it didn't save a lot of money and I spent a huge amount of time trying to get it done.
Cost me 48.63 euro for supplies to spray the rear view mirror on my focus see Guide: http://www.fordowner...ror/?pid=125448
Far cheaper to have the body shop mix up a bit of paint and spray everything at once,
Have you considerd purchasing new black plastic door pillar trims,
Have them primed smooth then hydrodipped carbon print,
This hydrodipping gets coated with clear laquor finish so its as good as paint.
Then removing the existing ones isint a problem when the split as your fitting brand new ones,
Cost around 40 pounds for full set from ford.
Im considering replacing that whole boot fitting with the chrome one though so I may look at changing it as your right about the light spread, the plate is still visible but isn't symmetrical which isn't right
+1 its the little things that give me insomnia mate,
Nothing wrong with the cameras for 12 quid, i had one and sold it after finding this one because its more symmetrical i lived solely on wheatabix for a week as result of purchase but its centre and this keeps me calm
it doesn't come with the camera, there is a version from eonon that does come with the camera but you could just as easily use Lenny's guide an cam, as long as the camera is a comp video output it'll work.I cant imagine any reverse cams wouldn't use comp video out so the only thing to be careful of is the physical size, the rear number plate lights are different on the mk2 and 2.5, probably the 3 as well
The camera used in my guide replaces the boot handle in the centre,
I dont like the ones that replace the reg lights because they obstruct an uneven light and the cameras not centre,
The one ive fitted is centre and incorperates the boot handle
Does this unit come with the reverse camera or do you have to buy it separately, I couldn't tell on the website! Also is the camera hard to fit (bare in mind I'm a beginner when it comes to these things)
Done some preperation work on the "Connects2 CTPCAP-1"
1.0 Fared Digital Capacitor today,
As you are aware from reading previous posts on this build thread; ive orderd a custom vinyl print of a RedBull can to fit the capacitor,
In order to get a smooth finish with the vinyl i needed to remove the stock label:
It sure wasn't coming off without a fight,
It is attached to a heat shrunk plastic casing which is much like a Lucozade bottle label.
I could have just peeled this off but i preferred to leave it on and use some nail polish remover to take off the paper label,
I masked up the plastic top with PVC tape encase the solvent in the nail polish caused any staining.
When removing the label i noticed the "nail polish remover" was also removing the matt black paint and white undercoat from the heat shrunk cover
I kept polishing with kitchen towel and nail polish remover until all traces of paint and label were removed:
The next challenge was to remove the plastic cap covering,
Because I've ordered the vinyl in a size that is designed to fill the space under the cap aswell.
Discovered the securing nut is 17mm so i manually loosened them by hand using only a socket no wrench
They screwed up a certain height before i had to use the supplied Allen key to remove the inner securing screws
Baring in mind Positive Post is to the left of the Digital display when returning these posts.
With this inner screw removed it was then possible to completely remove the 17mm Nut
Repeat process on opposite side
And off comes the plastic cover
Can see the line of primer where the paint was still intact,
I since cleaned off all paint as this section will to be covered by the vinyl print
Masked up the electronics
Wiped off the paint and temporally refitted the parts now awaiting arrival of the vinyl wrap.