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#477925 "taking Oval To Blue Horizon" Lenny's Build Thread 2010-2015

Posted by Lenny on 19 April 2015 - 07:09 PM

Tuning update:
Manually Calibrating the Ω 0hms on the mono amplifier,


Were going for 4 Ω on the Mono
So i need to get 28.3V displaying on the multimeter by adjusting the input sensitivity,
That's a lot of voltage pulsing to the sub right there,

Started off by putting levelling the equaliser to "FLAT"


Then set the speaker level to zero


Followed by the signal source boost level to zero


And finally the audio level to 30


I then disconnected all audio feeding to the 4 channel amplifier


Disconnected the sub and connected the banana plugs to the multimeter so no speakers are connected at all,
Just the mono amp feeding to the multimeter,

I then went to set the "input sensitivity" screw on the Mono amplifier to zero, but it was already at zero level :o


I then started the engine and Inserted the 50Hz Sine-wave CD which was recorded at 0dB




Got back to the boot compartment and turned up the screw until the multimeter was displaying as close as possible to 28.3V AC

I say as close as possible because the tweak is so hyper sensitive its very easy to sneeze and have it displaying 47.2V :lol: took two hands to steady it but after two minutes of tweaking were game on :) 28.28V close enough



With the Mono amplifier now set for life,
Time to finally fit the aluminium cover and badge,



Quick change of tester plugs and change of Test CD,
Going to set the 4 channel now,


The four channel amp has two "input sensitivity" controls aswell as two frequency level controls,
This enables a range of configurations which can put all low bass in rear speakers only and all higher levels in front speakers aswell as leaving all bass to the sub alone etc.

The manual provides scenario examples in the back pages to help.




Just going to set both front and back sensitivity for 4 Ω which is what the speakers are rated at,
This will be a target reading of 17.4V on the amplifier speaker outputs,

Ill do more research and find out the best settings for the frequency filters prior to fitting the cover on this one,

Fronts set at 17.32V


Rear set at 17.34V


Ive removed the sine-wave CD,
Reconnected everything,
Put volume to level 15,
Put in a CD and my neighbour two doors down came out to have a look :lol: thats not the people next door, no the people after that yo!! and his cavity walls are pumped with insulation 5H1t the bed!! :lol:
Volume goes to 40 I've had it at 15 for two minutes and my ear drums are sore to be honest.
And were still only one speaker functioning in the back as ive not yet changed the RCA cable,

In other news,
Ive been to Halfords today,
Saved 2.50 on purchasing a Vibe 8AWG amplifier wiring kit using the forum discount card,
Cost 22.50euro


Obtained the replacement RCA cable from its packaging to replace the defective RCA that's currently feeding the rear speakers,


And ive sold the remainder of the kit on eBay :)


#477793 Mk6 Fiesta Flame 1.4 Build Log (Was Fiesta Mk6 5 Door Custom Sub)

Posted by Lenny on 19 April 2015 - 09:57 AM

Just had a quick read of the reviews for the FK coilovers I was looking at. They're on sale at 108. 120 with p&p. Some reviews say they're fantastic for the price (rrp 210). Others say they're horrendous.. so do I go for adjustable coilovers or 30mm lowering springs for £80 or eibach springs for 120.
I'm not really fussed about comfort.. it's a first car (well.. 1st/2nd) so I've not really driven anything else.. I'm after the stance.. which these coilovers apparently have to offer
I don't fancy a full upgrade. It's either coilovers or lowering springs on the stock shocks. Want a drivable stance at a reasonable price


I have some independent knowledge id like to share with you mate,
Figured id introduce it this way so you don't feel I'm trying to steer you in any way or anything,

When fitting lowering springs,
You will need adjustable rear camber bolts to allow the rear wheels to be set correctly via laser alignment,

That's how lowering is done correctly meaning you get optimum performance aswell as no excessive tyre wear.

When fitting coilovers,
You need a front tower strut adjustable caster kit aswell as the adjustable rear camber kit, this allows adjustment of the front shock positioning to enable correct camber alignment at the lower than 35mm stance.
Via laser alignment,

Either spend it on the adjustable kits or spend it on tyres its going to be spent either way,
Cheapest in the long run is to spend it on camber kits,
Boy racers go for the looks, get featured in magazines then move on to the next car,
They don't keep it long enough to see the results,
If fitting the adjustable kits and laser aligned all will be 100% no problems,

If i was you,
Id go for adjustable coilovers,
Because i personally think; 35mm isn't low enough when your rolling 15" rims that entail a 55mm profile tyre,

Your ride height on 35mm springs would be more like a 50mm height,

If you fit adjustable coilovers you can set the ride height at 25mm for example,
This will give you 35mm stance in respect of the tyres and achieve the stance you want while still coping with speed ramps.

I'm not diminishing those rolling 15" or 16" wheels neither, the unsprung mass of anything bigger on a fiesta would wreck the clutch aswell as sacrifice performance,
They are what it needs,
I'm just saying how you can live with and work with it,

May also be worth checking out powerflex website link: https://www.powerflex.co.uk/

For some new bushes, be a good time to fit them when changing the shocks preventative maintenance.
That's just my two pence mate,
There's always going to be debate on lowering reviews as some people have no patience or care to slow down and expect everything now others understand what there doing and take the time to do it rite,
When you understand you appreciate the differences.
That's not a dig at anyone please no paranoia I'm just explaining the way reviews can be quite divide.

Ok you wont be able to take a speed ramp at 50 but you will be able to take a roundabout :)
Which is more fun?
Again I'm sure you would get 50/50 reviews

#477785 Hassen's Ford Focus 1.6 Tdci Build Thread

Posted by Lenny on 19 April 2015 - 09:08 AM

Starting to plan ahead a bit. I contacted the seller in Germany for the B12 kit and he mentioned that it will take 10-15 days to be delivered. 
Just double checking now. Will this fit my car? It does say so in the description but want to be 100% sure.http://www.ebay.co.u...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
Mechanic quoted me 180-200 to fit it and do the tracking. If all goes well, car should be at the mechanics to fit front discs, pads, steel brake lines, rear anti roll bar, rear camber bolts and b12 suspension kit on the 9th May. I will book it in once all parts are ordered. 


Will handle like a different car will all those items fitted,
Don't forget to purchase some eibach adjustable rear camber bolts and have the wheels laser aligned when all fitted,

The existing rear camber bolts are spot welded to the rear shock to maintain there fixed position,
Garage will need to cut these off to release the main hub,

Then fit your eibach adjustable bolts,
Here's a link to the same supplier that i bough mine: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230625566464

That's a good price on fitting aswell,
Ford garage wanted 190 to fit mine then asked for 280 after they had fitted despite me having there initial quote in writing in my hand from the previous week with exactly the same guy, lol so i paid him 192euro at the time and i said "quote paid, plus two euro for yourself to purchase a cowboy hat in the euro shop on your way home today pal, i wont be back"

I then had to have laser tracking alignment to correct camber,
Ford had tried to bill me for this at the time but they don't have tracking equipment in the garage, and clearly it wasn't done when i ended up with rear tyres half worn on the inner side:


Anyways sorry I'm goin too far in to it now lol bottom line rear adjustable bolts mate, and laser tracking,

The B12 kit seems to lower the car evenly and at 30mm front and rear it will be 5mm lower than your existing ride height since yours is currently at the same ride height as mine which is lowered on eibach springs,

It states only diesel models,
This leads me to believe that yes it is the correct kit for your car as petrol springs are too soft for diesel models,
The kit doesn't claim to fit both petrol and diesel so i believe it is the correct kit plus the seller has included an encyclopaedia of specific information,

Good price for shocks and springs together as eibach springs alone as a kit are 190 euro its not that much more for the shocks aswell.

The whiteline rear sway bar also comes with some Polyurethane bushes from Powerflex,
It may be of interest to log on to there website and see what other bushes they stock such as tower strut bushes,

Your B12 kit may not come with those and its a good time to have them changed when your changing the shocks as they sandwich between the shock and the chassis.
Link: https://www.powerflex.co.uk/
Fitting cost would be the same as the part is a rquirement, better to change along with shock in my opinion as it will be more cost effective.

Your existing 17x7 wheels with 55mm profile are a good medium between unsprung mass performance and handling,
However if you were to upgrade to an 18x8 rim would have a 35mm profile tyre the car would stick to the road and pan harder on the corners eliminating all element of wabble as the tyres wouldn't squat being reinforced side wall.

#477600 "taking Oval To Blue Horizon" Lenny's Build Thread 2010-2015

Posted by Lenny on 18 April 2015 - 05:50 PM

You started running calibration yet?
After you posted the videos on how to set up with a multimeter, I am now tempted to do the same as I have had my system for a while and never did a proper calibration. Only did it by ear. Will await eagerly to hear how your tests turn out.

Not yet mate,
I was on nights this week,
Got up at 17:00 yesterday, went to work for 23:00 finished at 07:00 went to parcel motel collected delivery of the CD's
Home had shower & shave then mistakenly took Vicki to Dundrum for a shopping spree,
I'm just home now and awake for 25 hours lol
Three cans of Monster id be cheaper drinking petrol lol

Bottom line mate ill get at the calibration tomorrow,

From my understanding of what the JL Audio manual;
The CD calibration with multi metre ensures the amplifiers are taking in the correct lowest base levels of audio,
Result being any amplification the amp then gives will be of purpose,

With this done,
The next stage would be equaliser adjustment/calibration followed by fade adjustment and sound levelling,

I could be wrong mate,
I'm a complete amateur at this stuff but that's my understanding of what it says in the JL Audio manuals,

I think this method can also be used to set the optimum watt output to the speakers to ensure there not being fed more than they can handle,
Again though I'm not 100% but ill get to know soon,

#477449 "taking Oval To Blue Horizon" Lenny's Build Thread 2010-2015

Posted by Lenny on 18 April 2015 - 06:37 AM

Special thanks to Adrian at Microphonics on ebay.co.uk supplied me with an Audio Test CD containing various sine-wave tones
I required a 1 kHz test tone recorded at 0 dB to calibrate the JL Audio XD400/4 full range amp,
Link: http://www.ebay.co.u...m/290992900278

Not only that;
When i contacted Adrian through eBay to ask if he knew where i could get my hands on a 50Hz Sine Wave tone Recorded at 0db on CD to calibrate the JL Audio XD300/1 Mono amplifier he was also able to supply it on a separate CD
Top man indeed as its almost impossible to find.


Note: never insert a cd with 50Hz at 0db in to a full range speaker as ive been told it will blow instantly,
This is why its normally only available at -20db,
However it is OK to use on a sub or mono amp setup as long as the full range are disconnected.

#477111 Mightycarmods Build Thread: Gramps 11 Second Car

Posted by Lenny on 17 April 2015 - 02:31 AM

What paint job were they thinking of doing to old Gramps?

See Episode 11 & 12 they discuss the paint and choose the colour,

#476478 Mk6 Fiesta Flame 1.4 Build Log (Was Fiesta Mk6 5 Door Custom Sub)

Posted by Lenny on 15 April 2015 - 12:20 AM

I quite like these http://www.rotashop.co.uk/rota-grid-17-75-4x108mm-et45-white-single-rim_p22453095.htm not sure about them on my car though 

Look good ive saw them fitted to Glanza's and look pretty good in terms of fitting them to a small hatchback car,

#476440 Kpg's Focus Mk2 Titanium

Posted by Lenny on 14 April 2015 - 09:50 PM

I got a new key :)
attachicon.gifImageUploadedByFord OC1429045440.967031.jpg
attachicon.gifImageUploadedByFord OC1429045450.734347.jpg
Got a quote for cutting and programming, all in, £75. That sound reasonable?
Sent from my iPhone 5s.

Sweet :)
  • kpg likes this

#476336 Mk6 Fiesta Flame 1.4 Build Log (Was Fiesta Mk6 5 Door Custom Sub)

Posted by Lenny on 14 April 2015 - 06:38 PM

I'll have a look at the wheels you've both mentioned soon, I've solved the speaker I think..those sh155y connectors on the door loom!

I've got some gold crimp spade terminals for sale as part of a bundle if there any use,
I've packaged everything up as on parcel though so would have to take all,

Rota do some nice Green alloys sell individual alloys can easily fit same in spare wheel if desired,
Lighter 15" wheel is equivilent to a 13" in terms of unsprung mass with the benifits of extra grip and stability being bigger.

Also i never realised how much bass was at the start of Chicane - Salt Water
Until i listened to it on the new sound system,
Have a listen on yours mate set the bass to around +7 and speakers to around +4 lol feel it in your chest

#476262 Mk6 Fiesta Flame 1.4 Build Log (Was Fiesta Mk6 5 Door Custom Sub)

Posted by Lenny on 14 April 2015 - 02:17 PM

All the mods have been transferred already! Except the polybushes and the wheels (of which one Is slightly bent.. possibly repairable.. I've got my eye on some wolfsport)
I hate the original wheels! I've got 6 at the minute! Haha (two from the old car got scrapped when I put the new ones on as they were knackered). They're 15"

if considering purchasing some aftermarket alloys,
Have a look at Rota there a UK based manufacturer of light weight alloys

#476173 "taking Oval To Blue Horizon" Lenny's Build Thread 2010-2015

Posted by Lenny on 14 April 2015 - 12:33 AM

Christ Lenny havent been on here for a while but im in awe of the job you have undertaken. You must have the patience of a saint to do that yourself, I know I wouldn't have the balls to take a job like that on.
Fair play to ya lad, your attention to detail amazes me

Hi John,
Thanks very much for your kind words mate,
Ive been planning this stage of the build since October 2014 it has been quite stressful at times fearing the outcome and that my next move would be a failure particularly when drilling holes in the carpeted MDF panel had the hole been off id have had to build another from scratch but thankfully it has all worked out as planned,
The only disappointing part now is that its all over :lol:
It has been a very enjoyable process its the planning and fitting i enjoy most its great to have the forum especially at this point to share the ideas, interest and to recap on the memories of the build.

#476089 Hassen's Ford Focus 1.6 Tdci Build Thread

Posted by Lenny on 13 April 2015 - 09:02 PM

Called them up and he was asking for 130 for the rear bumper. It's in very good nick from the pictures. Also, if I were to get the rear spoiler and side skirts, he said it cost 400. I didn't try to haggle with him and I think he might take less if I was there offering him cash on the spot.
What do you think? Worth it or not? Also, there's a guy around the Midlands who mentioned he had a Zs front bumper that needs a bit of work and he is asking for 40 for it!

Hard to say as i havent saw its condition but it should be fine if your having it sprayed cant really go wrong at that price,
Standard rear bumper in primer grey without brackets is 190
The front lip is a steal of a price at 30 when are you collecting it?
I sold mine to the UK for 175GBP

#475995 "taking Oval To Blue Horizon" Lenny's Build Thread 2010-2015

Posted by Lenny on 13 April 2015 - 06:22 PM

#475994 My Focus 1.6 Tdci Zetec (2010) - Remapped

Posted by Lenny on 13 April 2015 - 06:20 PM

Thats a perfect match Jamie looks awsome mate,
You should consider doing the light browe.

#475938 "taking Oval To Blue Horizon" Lenny's Build Thread 2010-2015

Posted by Lenny on 13 April 2015 - 03:34 PM

Did you buy the Sound deadening btw? 

No i give it some thought before going to purchase and decided not to bother,

How's the flip down monitor coming up?
I agree with you about the hybrid turbo. A lot of money for a diminishing return in power gains. 

I've gotta get in touch with a few company's next month which specialise in fitting roof monitors and find out which one is willing to fit without supplying the flip down themselves,
Hopefully have it fitted by the end of May,
Could have done with it past week I've spent 18 hours on the road bring kids on day trip holidays,

I've also gotta source a CD with:
A sine-wave test tone recorded at 0 dB reference level in the frequency in 50 Hz
A separate track with the same sine-wave test tone recorded at 0 dB reference level in the frequency 1 kHz
In order to calibrate the amplifiers along with the use of my multimeter,
I am aware there may be various apps and MP3's available to download for this however it must be on CD as i need to set all equaliser settings and faders to zero in order to calibrate both the amplifiers input sensitivity in order to gain maximum output aswell as set the maximum output limits to match the limits of the speakers resulting in zero distortion and zero risk of blowing anything with full range of volume control.

The way this works is:
Disconnect speaker output cables from the amplifier,
Connect multimeter probes to the speaker outputs on the amplifier,
Set the Multimeter to display to Hz or KHz depending on what your tuning.
Insert CD to headunit,
Set all equaliser and enhancers to zero aswell as faders to centre,
Play the specific track while viewing multimeter display,
Adjust amplifier sensitivity screw until the multimeter display reading matches the input reading in Hz or kHz

Next is to set the ohms,
Change multimeter reading to AC voltage,
Adjust the amplifier gains wheel to achieve the correct level of AC voltage output which corresponds to the voltage level stated in the user manual in order to achieve the correct ohms to match the speakers.

I've managed to source a supplier of the sine-wave 1 kHz test tone recorded at 0 dB
Link: http://www.ebay.co.u...=item43c08748b6
However I'm still in search of the 50 Hz sine-wave test tone recorded at 0 dB

Once this is done i can then use the pioneer self calibrating mic to allow the headunit use its digital equaliser settings to calibrate the speakers within the self preset perimeters.