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Guide: Fitting Footwell Lighting To Your Ford

Posted Lenny on 17 December 2013 - 08:57 PM in Ford Focus Guides

Here is a Guide to fitting footwell lighting in the front and rear of your ford.

also available in PDF format: Attached File  Guide fitting Footwell Lighting.pdf   588.07KB   0 Number of downloads

For those who have the bulb holders in the front footwells but their is no power in them,
they should purchase Qty: 2 of this Cable which would be 4 metres of cable. http://www.ebay.co.u...=item27bd5915eb
cut the existing loom around two inches from the bulb sockets and fit this loom running the two sockets off the one single run of cable then up the A pillar and splice in to the blue and black cables at the rear of the interior light.

Blue = Positive +
Black = Negative -

alternativly if you do not want to cut or splice the existing loom, you can tape up the existing bulb sockets and fit some new ones, along with the cable and fit them istead.
also if you would prefer not to splice the loom at the rear of the interior light you can purchase an illuminated ignition ring which comes with pre moulded connections that fit in between the connection from the loom to the interiro light.
so you can fit the ignition ring and splice the footwell lighting in to the ignition ring loom instead of the actual ford loom itself.
the ignition rings are available on ebay and come in colours red,blue or white

Below is an image of the loom on the ignition ring for you to get an idea of how they connect to the interior light:


For those who havent got the footwell light sockets or loom present in the front footwells

They need to purchase the sockets to fit the holes which are here http://www.ebay.co.u...=item43ae09c359
plus the cable in the link above too.

finally for both fitments they will require some T10 w5w light bulbs of their choice.

For those who would like to fit some Rear Footwell lighting
i have got Qty 2 of these in red led pods fitted under the front seats of my focus,
one stuck to the top of the footwell blower under each seat facing on to the rear footwells and wired in to the loom of the front footwell lighting.
here are some links to the pods for the rear footwell's.

Be sure to order Qty:2 in order to recieve two of them

Red Pod
Blue Pod
Green Pod
White Pod

Here is a guide on fitting the led pods to the rear footwells in your ford.

you will require

in this guide you will notice i have fitted some 3 led pods and the ones linked in the post above are 5 led their isint really much difference in the additional two leds under the footwell but i reckon the 5 led pods would give a slightly better effect.

as you can see in the image below,
the pods come from the supplier pre-wired with red and black terminals on the ends and 1.5metre of cable attached.



i found the casing of the pods to be quite shiny and i wrapped them in a layer of black electrical tape to help keep them hidden under the rear footwells and not really noticable unless they are illuminated.


first step:
strip the ends of both red and black terminals on the end of both units and splice them togeather with one ond of the purchased 2 metre red&black 10amp cable. join the 3 black feeds to each other and tape them togeather using the purchased e;ectrical tape followed by performing the same action with the 3 red terminals. then tape the two bulk insulated cables togeather to create a Y shaped loom, ensure the red and black feeds are insulated seperatly before taping them togeather as one loom.



if desired you can wrap the surround of the pods in black tape too, then fit one or two double sided sticky pads to one side of each pod.

once complete,
you can then bring the new wired loom with pods attached in to the car.


un-bolt the centre console so as it can be lifted up to fit you hand underneath it,
then begin to fish the cables under the seats on both sides ensuring that they are under the slide rails of the seats,
leave around 2 inches of excess cable encase the units ever get caught on anything the cable is not likely to snap if their is a slight bit of excess their to allow for stretching, for example of a small umbrella was to be pulled from under the seat and it caught on the loom of the footwell light pod.

do not stick the pods to the top of the rear footwell heater blowers yet because they may tear off with the fishing of the cables,
wait to mount them correctly at the end of the process.

next step is to locate the front footwell loom cables on the passenger side footwell,
fish your rear footwell loom in to the front of the passenger footwell through the centre console.

cut the excess cable from the rear footwell loom then like pealing a Banna.
using your stanley blade gently peal back the positive feed on the existing front footwell loom feed.
peel back the sleeving to reveal the copper internal and wrap the red positive around the front footwell stripped positive feed then tape it up with some electrical tape,

and repeat the process for the negative feed.

the front footwell loom cables should be Orange and Black

so splice Red to Orange and Black to Black. ensure to do them one at a time because if the terminals meet then the fuse will blow and you may also need to get the code for the stereo so please ensure not to strip the two terminals at the same time. only stip one then tape it up before stripping the second one.

finally the led pods in the rear will be illuminated if this guide was followed correctly.
and you can position the as required while sticking the other sides of the double sided pads to the tops of the rear footwell blowers.

the rear footwell lights will operate exactly the same and fade in and out in time with the front footwell lighting.




Guide To Fitting Mist Type Jets On Your Ford

Posted Lenny on 16 December 2013 - 11:00 AM in Ford Focus Guides

Just purchased a set of Heated Mist Type Water Jets found on the New 2011 Focus. From Paynes Of Hinckley

To Purchase the Heated Version £2.93 each exc. P&P Part Number: 1708797 Click Here Top Seller 100%

To Purchase the NON Heated Version Part Number: 1708796 Click Here to Contact Seller Or Contact your Local Ford Dealership to Purchase.

Please Note: If you are unsure that you Ford has or has not got heated jets, purchase the heated version and when fitting the jets, if your system is not heated just tape the electrical plug to the water hose, the system will work just the same.

.Thanks for viewing my Guide and I hope it has helped to achieve satisfactory results.
I have created many Guides all available here on fordownersclub.com all created in my spare time,
in recent times my image host for the guides has began to charge for hosting the images that display within my guides.
So im now paying a monthly subscription in order for these guides to function,
If you would like to help keep the guides full of images,
Donations under £1.00 welcome via PayPal
Address: leonard.woods@live.ie
Thank you.

So time to get fitting smile.gif

Lift the bonnet on your ford, and ensue the ignition is off, and keys out of the car,

Begin to unclip the eleven clips that hold the bonnet insulation pad in place simply squeeze the two sides in towards each other and gently pull outwards then store them neatly together. Preferably cut a plastic bottle in half or an empty Pringles tin to store them all in, until required for re-fitting, this type of temporary storage is good practice for working on your car, as if one is lost this type of part can be a nightmare to replace,


Once all clips are removed gently flap the pad down towards the engine and gently pull out away from the car in a straight line,

GOT A SHOCK TO SEE BAD FORD PRINTED UNDER THERE blink.gif IS mine a Reject ohmy.gif

Store this Insulation part preferably in a vertical position, indoors away from wind, and any risk of it being stood on during the change over process,


Once this is out of the way, unplug the water hose from the bottom of the current jets, by giving a gentle  tug, the pipe should pop off and a small amount of water is expected,


Then to remove the electrical connector use a flat screwdriver to lift the clip and slide the connector out from the socket,



Finally as seen in the picture below, press the clip on the jet in towards the pipe and push upward to the top surface of the bonnet, the jet should pop out of place, gently remove and replace with the new type,


Place the New Jet (Pictured on the left in the picture above) in through the hole



Then connect up to the Water pipe and loom


follow the same process again for the opposite side of the Bonnet,



Next and Final Step is Replacing the Cover

Take two clips in your hand and lift the cover also with both hands, align the cover to the bonnet of the car ensuring the 4 curved pieces at the bottom are all in their metal pockets at the bottom of the bonnet


then with one hand holding the insulation tight to the bonnet, use the free hand to insert the two clips in to the holes at the nose of the bonnet.


this will better support the cover while the remaining nine clips are re-inserted back in to place,

close the bonnet and test the new Jets.



Job done cool.gif

Also as these jet use a mist rather than a stream of water on your windscreen, the mist type will be more efficient than the standard type jets, making your water bottle contents last longer, and with better windscreen coverage for cleaning.

Please see Video Below Compiledby JohnH

The Model used for the purpose of this Guide is a 2010 Mk2.5 Ford Focus Style Manufactured July 2010, other Ford model styles may vary in the fitment of the bonnet insulation, however the fitting process after the insulation has been removed will be the same across the range.

Hope this helps and feel free to add more information on your experience in fitting to your Ford Model e.g. Fiesta, Mondeo etc. To better help others.

Thanks For Looking!
Please Check my List of Guides Listed Below For More Information. cool.gif

Green Cotton Performance Induction Filter Fitting Guide

Posted Lenny on 08 December 2013 - 07:01 PM in Ford Focus Guides

ive done some research on the internet prior to choosing the correct brand of replacment induction filter, most would assume that the best choice to be K&N but i have found Green Cotton Air filter to have the edge over K&N or PiperCross due to Green's manufacturing process being more hands on instead of automated manufacturing.

the green filter in bonded with precision to the frame of the filter the results are more air flow in to the filter whereK&N use an automated process resulting in over use of bonding glue to the frame of the filter which can spread across the panel restricting flow and performance of the filter leaving is performing less than K&N's original prototype that they use to get their gains figures from.
but anyways enough of me blabbing on about the differences, because the information is available on other websites for all to view without me re-typing it lol.


to purchase a Green Cotton performance induction filter for your ford and feel the difference for yourself log on to
and get 10% Discount off your Green Cotton Performance filter by using the code FORDOWNERSCLUB10 you can also get 20% Discount off any Ritchbrook branded stock by entering Discount Code: RICHBROOK20 both offers are exclusive to members of fordownersclub.com special thanks to Ross at Priracing for this kind offer.

So here's whats in the box for the focus 1.6TDCi induction filter.




Ive decided to upgrade the standard ford induction filter in my 1.6TDCi focus to a free flowing high performance induction filter. and since i was changing it ive decided to create this guide to show others what is envolved aswell as report on the performance difference between the stock and aftermarket direct replacment air box filter.

fitting time takes around 15-20 minutes,
Tools required are an 8mm socket and a pair of rubber latex gloves


So Open the bonnet,


remove the battery cover if fitted.  and using the 8MM socket loosen the 4 bolts that are holding the lid of the induction box in place.  please note the bolts do not pull free/seperate from the lid, they remove from the bottom section but stay inside the lid section by design,


Once lid has been removed you will see your heavy stock ford filter, 
hopefully ford wont have bent your stock filter when putting it in their as they have done with mine.


place your hand on the top end of the filter and pull upwards to remove it.  once removed, ensure the lid from the induction box aswell as the 8mm socket are stored off of the engine bay and close the bonnet if you are planning to wait a couple of minutes prior to fitting the new filter.
this will help prevent any contamination getting in to the induction pipes.



Here are some images of the stock induction filter removed from the induction box, it is heavier than the replacement and it manufactured with a paper style material that becomes very soft and britle when wet or damp,

wet or damp conditions can occour in the induction box in both winter and summer being caused by the heat of the engine creating condensation in the air box, thankfully the material used in the Green filter is cotton a much better material for this type of filter and alot more breathable in both damp and dry conditions.


as you can see more clearly in the image below, the stock filter was bent when installed and i assume by my local ford dealership last march when it was booked in for a full service, thankfully by fitting the Green filter in the induction box, ford wont have any reason to touch the replacment filter any time soon because its good for 80,000 miles, when that distance has been clocked Priracing also stock & supply cleaning kits for the induction filters to renew the life for a further 80,000 miles.


as you can see in the image below, the inside area of the stock filter is very small and the 117 pleates seem to be crammed togeather very tightly, to
be honest i wouldnt consider the stock induction filter to be sufficient enough to breath through air for myself never mind the engine and a human body wouldnt vacum as much air in as a car.

i really didnt expect it to be so restricted,


Since i had the filter removed i decided to take the oppertunity to clean out the induction filter housing, and i spotted what i assumed to be a stone in the base of the air box, i couldnt reach in to pick it out with my hands so i had to fetch a tweasers from the tool box.


To my surprise it wasnt a stone at all ohmy.png as you can see in the image below, it was a Snail biggrin.png i know diesel engines are said to be slugish but i didnt ever expect to find a Snail stuck inside the air box, it would be fantasy to assume that he got sucked off the road in to the induction box, laugh.png but i can only assume that he went in their when the car was in it's 6 month storage period earlier in the year. perhaps he thought he found a mate with the Garret GT1544v Turbo situated to the left of the induction filter housing.


I used to Matt finish Armor All dashboard wipes and a hoover to clean out the inside of the induction filter housing, then closed the bonnet for uu15 minutes allowing the area time to dry before fitting the new free flowing Green Cotton Performance Induction filter.


I decided to meassure the differences between the filters to observe if their was any. i found that had ford not buckled the stock filter installing it in to
the induction housing the it would be the same height as the Green Cotton Performance Filter at just under 8'' Inches.


The filters differ in width/diameter though,  the stock filter is 6'' inches in width/diameter and the new Green Performance Filter is 5.5'' in idth/diameter
this will allow more air circulation around the filter inside the airbox, aswell as more base clearance in the unfortunite event of any water engress due to flooding, the Green Cotton filter is positioned .5'' higher in the induction housing aswell as being constructed of Cotton it wont store much moisture compared to the stock paper style filter that could potentially store up to 3 times its size in moisture.





Overall the Materials that have been used to create the Green Performance filter are considerably better than the stock ford induction filter, this can be most clearly saw on the image below with the support bar to prevent folding of the filter. ford have got a similar type of support on the stock filter but it is less than 1mm thick and of flat design which makes it usless due to its ability to kink easily thus weakening the structure and allowing the filter to fold as it has on mine. Green Performance have addressed the issue much better by fitting round stainless steel supports which have no corners to kink and would withstand much much higher pressure than the stock filter support, To give you an idea of this: if you were to squeeze the stock filter support bar then it would bend,  but i reckon if you were to hammer the suppot on the Green Performance filter, it still woudnt budge or deform.
Quality Stuff all round. cool.png


In the images below you can see for yourself the bonding of the filter with no glue, or plastic obstructing the flow of the filter and a consistant straight edge around the housing.


Below is an image taken of inside the Green Cotton Performance Filter, Their is much more room for air and you can even see much more light through
the 0.1 Micron holes in the cotton. resulting in free flowing clean filterd air going in to your motor as it demands. 
resulting in less lag and a perfect mix of fuel and air, resulting in better engine performance, better sound and more MPG. 


The Image Below is inside the stock Ford Induction Filter. sad.png

At this point the induction filter would be dry and free of contaminants, so time to get fitting the new performance filter! biggrin.png



Remove the plastic cover from the filter and put on the latex gloves to prevent any dirt on your hands from staining the lovely Performance
Green colour of the filter that is much like the focus RS


Align the filter rubber base up to the pipe ensuring the induction pipe is inside the filter rubber flap, i found the easiest way to do this is to gently push the filter on to the pipe while rotating it in one direction, by rotating it you will pass through the full seal area and be able to stretch the rubber flap of the filter around the pipe forming a good Clean seal.


Once the filter is positioned on the induction pipe correctly, The next step is to rotate it while gently pushing at the same time, in order to bring the lip of the filter flap to the bottom of the induction pipe and tight to the wall of the induction filter housing as you can see in the image below.


when the filter is positioned fully home, as saw in the image above this text, then it should slot in to the two teeth on the opposite wall of the filter housing as saw in the image below this text.


Their is also a rubber plug that holds the unduction housing in the engine bay and helps to prevent vibration, mine came loose when cleaning the induction filter housing so its a good precaution to ensure it is pushed down when fitting is completed.




The filter is now fitted tightly in position,  their is no guidance on either filter in regards to where the support bar section of the filter should be positioned, but i decided to position it in the same place that the stock one was damaged,  it may prevent any damage from happening or support a weak spot i dont know but its as good a place as any,


Final step is to replace the housing and re-tighten the four 8mm bolts, take care to ensure that the right side of the lid is sitting in to the groove on the top end of the induction filter because the top section of the filter is also the side wall of the induction box, this design by ford may be to assist cooling inside of the housing.





Finally replace the battery lid and close the bonnet, take the car for a drive and feel the difference for yourself,


Guide: Fitting Egr Blanking Plate 1.6Tdci Engine

Posted Lenny on 06 December 2013 - 06:47 PM in Ford Focus Guides

Hi all,
I 100% recommend if fitting an EGR Blanking plate; that you fit a stainless steel one,
Alluminum plates break through over time with terrible results.

Stainless steel blanking plates are top job a fit and forget item.
Here is a reliable supplier of stainless steel laser cut egr blanking plates.

.Thanks for viewing my Guide and I hope it has helped to achieve satisfactory results.
I have created many Guides all available here on fordownersclub.com all created in my spare time,
in recent times my image host for the guides has began to charge for hosting the images that display within my guides.
So im now paying a monthly subscription in order for these guides to function,
If you would like to help keep the guides full of images,
Donations under £1.00 welcome via PayPal
Address: leonard.woods@live.ie
Thank you.



Tools Required:
16mm Socket
5/16 Socket
8mm Socket
13/32 Socket (only if engine cover fitted)
T30 Torx screw driver
T20 Torx screw driver


Time to fit : 02:15 from start to finish, perhaps quicker if you were not stopping to take pictures or search for the required tools since you guys now have a list lol


The next step is extremly difficult if you don't know how,
But its very simple once you know how; and you will know how to
After you watch this short video from dodge, all wiper arms remove the same way and this dodge wiper removal video video explains it best.

. http://m.youtube.com...?&desktop_uri=/








Clips removal using flat screwdriver to slide from panel.



Once unclipped;
Lift the panel free from place and store in a safe place until returning to the car.

Next step is to remove the panel beneath








also remove the brake fluid resivour from this panel and ensure to place it in an upright position in the engine bay until returning to the panel.



Store all screws in a cup and place it somewhere safe until returning to the car.

When screws are removed from the panel;
Lift upwards on the front and gently pull backwards to release from the clips that grip it at the rear:



when removed:
Store in a safe place until replacing on the car


Now all of these panels are removed, you can gain comfortable access to the rear of the engine,

Your next question may be "where is the EGR Valve located?"

Here are 3 images taken from the front engine bay and leading you to the rear right side of the 1.6TDCi / 1.6HDi engine where the EGR valve joins to the block.





This round headed barcoded electonic valve is THE EGR!!

This cylinder in the image below is the egr valve cooler,
Helps to cool the exhaust gases that are being sent to the valve for re-entry to the combustion chamber.


Now to fit the EGR blanking plate;
You first need to loosten the nut on the EGR Cooler tank



Followed by loosening the two extreemly long EGR Valve bolts.




Once the nut on the "EGR Cooler"
The 2 bolts on the "EGR Valve" have been made loose you can gently pull the EGR Valve from the engine block,
This is a case of trial pulling
Followed by further loosening of the nut/bolts until you have enough space to slide in the plate.

See in the image below this text:
The gap beginning to appear when gently pulling on the EGR valve after loosening


Their is a gasket seal on between the engine block and egr valve flange,
I kept the gasket on the engine block side; when inserting the blanking plate,

So the gasket now seals the engine block to the egr blanking plate,
This is best for a good seal.



Now to slide in the blanking plate from the right side of the engine
In to the left.

Very easy,
Just hook on to the top bolt
Let the blanking plate swing down; it will hook in to the lower bolt itself.

Just push firmly to the left to ensure it is centre in the valve,
Also ensure the gasket seal is between the engine block and the blanking plate.

Prior to tightening the 2 bolts on the EGR valve back up
Followed by the nut on the egr cooler.

Here is the blanking plate fitted:



Now to replace the panels







Ensure the seals are free from dirt
Also check the top panel under the windscreen,
It has a C shaped end that fits the bottom of the windscreen in to the panel for a tight seal.










All back togeather
You will notice boost comes a lot quicker and increased torque lower down in the rev range,
Exhaust noise is a little louder (just a little)
Engine idle is quieter
Exhaust smoke doesn't exist
Your induction system now takes in clean air only
No carbon in your induction
Less engine oil contamination

All of the above are from my personal experience since fitting,

Other things such as increased MPG have yet to be saw but I'll keep you all updated.
Great surprise with the reduced lag in 1st and 2nd Gear though.

Well worth every penny and more!

By far the best modification on the car to date.

Guide: Fitting Bonnet Damper Strut Kit Focus Mk2 & Mk2.5

Posted Lenny on 06 December 2013 - 04:36 PM in Ford Focus Guides

I have purchased this very well built Custom bonnet strut kit for ford focus
From a company called Visual-PerformanceUK on ebay.co.uk

They stock and supply two different models of the kit depending on what model of focus you own,

For the Mk2 Focus (2005-2008)

For the Mk2.5 Focus (2008-2010)

This guide shows fitting the Mk2.5 bonnet strut damper kit linked above.

So here is what you get in the kit:





As you can see in the images above,
Each of the fitting brackets are pre-labeled for straight forward easy to follow fitting.
Once the locations for each bracket have been noted. The labels can be easily removed for cosmetic purposes using a warm damp cloth.

The kit also comes with a small tub of grease and a Cotton bud for easy application of the stuff without messing up your hands or trousers.

Once you have set out all of the fitting kit and required tools.
Go out to your focus and open the bonnet, then position the stock bonnet support bracket for the last time.


Then using a Philips head screwdriver and begin to remove the screw head grommet on the side wing panels.
I find it ideal to use a plastic drinks bottle cut in half and keep all small fixings in it until they are required for refitting. Costs nothing and helps to ensure no parts get lost.


Once removed
Trace up to the top of the panel and lift the end off the rubber strip.


I have looked in to removing this plastic panel for easier trimming but as you can see in the images below;
The side fender plastic trim panels are well bolted under the front wiper panel which spans the width of the car making complete removal of the plastic fender panels a bigger job than worth,
However fitting is possible without 100% removal of the plastic panels.

Remove the metal clips that grip the wiper panel.


Gently lift the corner of the windscreen wiper panel to reveal a Torx Screw.
Using a 90degree elbow allen key; remove this screw and store safely with the other bits.

Once removed.
You should now have enough free play in the panels
To gently lift the plastic side panel and locate the side panel bolt.
Please note: lift the panel just enough to allow the socket wrench to remove the bolt, do not lift too high or fast because the panel would be liable to snap or crack when put under unnecessary strain.




When the bolt has been removed.
Obtain the specific bracket for this side of the bonnet aswell as two serrated washers from the kit.
Fit 1 x serrated washer on to the bolt
Followed by the bracket,
And finally the second serrated washer,



Now bring back to the car and fit in place,
The flat edges on the bracket aswell as the pre-drilled hole make fitting a breeze because it lines itself up perfectly without fail.
When bolting it all down,
Just lightly tighten because fitting at this stage is just for cutting purposes and not final fit.
When in place it should look somthing like this:



Spraying Rear View Mirror

Posted Lenny on 16 March 2012 - 04:39 PM in General Ford Guides - Modern Fords

Here's a guide on removing and spraying your rear view mirror,
This Guide is now Available in Downloadable PDF Format, which can be Printed to Paper to better assist you with the Modification
[attachment=2913:Guide Color Coding Rear View Mirror.pdf]

The equipment needed was all purchased in my local Halfords store,
Posted Image
Harris Masking Tape 25mmx25m €3.99
Halfords Enamel Gray Primer €9.49
Halfords Ford Moondust Silver € 8.49
Halfords Enamel Clear Lacquer €9.49
Halfords Paint Preparation Wipes €5.68
3M SandBlaster Extra Fine P400 Flexible Pads € 8.49
Total Cost €45.63
Sitting in the driver's seat hold the stalk of the mirror and gently push the mirror unit up towards the ceiling, it should slide out of the steel bracket that is mounted to the windscreen,
Using a small Philips screwdriver remove the screw from the mirror, if fragments of metal are found while removing the screw don't worry this seems to be normal as the tapping of the aluminium part (mounted in the mirror) would have left fragments inside,
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Once removed find a container to hold the stalk, screw and screwdriver as the process will take around 24hours to complete and the last thing you want is to lose a part, i used an old plastic bottle to safely store the items.
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When I began to mask up the area I didn't want to paint a noticed imperfections in the mould where the rubber lip is joined to the plastic around the lip of the mirror, as can be seen in the picture below, I smoothed these off prior to masking around the lip and glass.
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After a light sanding to roughen up the surface you want to paint, wipe down the surface with metaliated spirits or specific wipes to remove any dust or fragments prior to painting,
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Once wiped down don’t forget the number one rule that’s always cover your hole, I nearly forgot to cover the part that joins to the bracket, last thing you want is to get any paint or debris in to it as refitting the screw would be a nightmare.
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Following the instructions on the can of primer, shake the can for at least 3 minutes prior to use, also take care in choosing the location to spray your mirror ensuring the area is clear of any item you don’t want to get paint on, as everything around will get a blanket of paint on it even your cloths so wise to cover anything with plastic bags or remove altogether,
Also the paint should be at the same temperature as the area you’re going to spray it in ideally +20oc not damp or very dusty as the dust in the air will mix with the paint being sprayed and fall on to it,
After coating with primer, leave it to dry for at least 4 hours then give it another light sand this time with one wet piece of sanding pad dampened with water and one dry piece, leave it for another hour to dry then wipe down again with paint preparation wipes, once dry commence the first coat of Car coloured paint also shaking the can for at least 3minutes prior to use

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After applying first coat of Car coloured paint, leave it to dry then another light sand with dry pad followed by preparation wipe and another coat of paint, then a second coat,
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Again leaving it to dry light sand, preparation wipe then moving on to the finishing stage of lacquer coat’s

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The following picture is after one coat, i didn’t sand between the coats of lacquer as it didn’t specify to do so, and also i was afraid it may affect the outcome of the finish, 2 coats of lacquer is sufficient to smooth the finish but i gave mine 4 just to give it a nice shine,

Two Coats of Lacquer
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Four Coats of Lacquer

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After coating and leaving it around 3 hours too dry gently remove the masking tape from the mirror take care when doing this as the paint although dry is still very brittle and prone to lifting or chipping at this point, leaving the tape on too ling will leave it harder to remove also, the paint will take up to 7 days to cure completely so may be wise to keep air fresheners off the mirror for a week after spraying, and if you wear rings be careful when adjusting the mirror,
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Mine is now fitted and looking through the windscreen it seems slightly darker than the rest of the car’s colour but this is due to the tint in the window, once seen inside the car it’s a perfect match,
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Weighing up the cost and time I reckon it would be way cheaper to get it sprayed professionally in a garage rather than doing it yourself, I could be wrong but after adding up the cost of the materials and time taken to do it although I really enjoyed doing it myself and I’m well chuffed with the outcome, and also I wouldn’t have been able to create this guide for the site if I’d gone to a sprayer.

Thanks For Looking!

Activating Single Door Unlock And All Door On Your Ford

Posted Lenny on 16 March 2012 - 04:21 PM in General Ford Guides - Modern Fords

Activating Single door unlock on your ford

Whilst car is locked
Press and hold both lock and unlock buttons together, until indicators flash.

This will mean now that when you press the unlock key the drivers door only will unlock,
press it a second time and all doors unlock, great safety feature, Posted Image

press lock once and all doors including boot lock as normal

press lock twice within 30seconds and dead lock mode is activated meaning doors cant be unlocked from inside the car, if window is broken or a person is inside front or rear the doors wont open, unless the unlock button is pressed

Posted Image Posted Image

Thanks For Looking!