Jump to content


Member Since 23 Jun 2010
Online Last Active Today, 07:55 PM

Topics I've Started

Check It Out: Glitter Bomb Via Post

29 January 2015 - 12:39 PM

Just found this site linked on Twitter :lol:

Quote Review "Excellent, had one shipped to my husband, he opened it just before he was going to work, it destroyed his cloths so he had to change, leaving him late for work and now he may be getting fired LOL"


What's On Your Pizza?

18 January 2015 - 09:23 PM

Alrite bit of fun and General Interest,
4 Toppings whats yours?

Ill go first:

Cajun Chicken
Extra Cheese

Disappointing Mightycarmods Episode

08 January 2015 - 12:08 PM

I must say I'm disappointed with the most recent episode of MightyCarMods in regards to the audio upgrade on Moog's S2000

Quote "the existing headunit works with the steering controls so ill stay with it rather than changing"

I was thinking "dude WTF this is MightyCarMods"

Connects2 are a global supplier of automotive electrical accessories including steering stalk adaptors http://www.connects2...oductRange.aspx

There's no need to be tied to stock Audio systems,
Sticking with stock goes against everything MCM preached in the past.
Moog if you're reading this I'm disappointed man :lol:
Almost removed the MCM decal from my car why didn't you just purchase a patch cable from connects2.

Next thing:
They go to the car audio store and pick up a Random selection of audio equipment without even explaining the gauge of wire required, which amp or even what sub,
Or even purchasing decent quality to be honest.
Pioneer headunits are awesome but there speakers not so good, those pioneer 6.5" they purchased for the front doors are on special in Halfords 20 euro a set and that's with 50% off hardly an upgrade from stock, i mean OK if you have no sound then yeah there an upgrade but come on... I would have assumed Moog would be choosing quality audio equipment as he writes his own music.

Sad to see Moog's got less love for the S2000 than he had for the Silvia S16 what happened the double Din Avic donated by Pioneer which he fitted to the Silvia with steering stalk adapter.

I'm sorry i just think there's no point in doing something if you're not going to do it 100% and i took for granted these guys at the top would be leading the scene.

Here's the episode in discussion guys:

Guide: Fitting Reverse Camera Mk2.5 Focus 2008 - 2011

02 January 2015 - 07:42 AM

Guide: Fitting Reverse Camera Mk2.5 Focus 2008 - 2011




Hi all,
Not really much to do in this guide mainly because the chosen reverse camera kit is so good,
Has taken a lot of work out of installing.

So here's the Shopping list short and sweet:

Reverse camera:
http://www.dynamicso...1 focus reverse

If you're living in Ireland and wish to. Purchase this item; sign up to parcel motel and receive it for 3.75 shipping.
See link: http://www.parcelmotel.com/

Here's what's in the box:





Very nicely packaged and presented the kit is top quality and i really cant praise it enough :)

It replaces the existing boot handle while incorporating the reverse camera in to the handle,
This guarantees the camera is most definitely centre aligned on the rear of the vehicle aswell as quite discreet.

Pre-crimped terminals ready for splicing in to the existing boot handle cables:


And here's where it becomes worth the money :)

The loom is separated in two halves by this bespoke connection:


This makes things so much easier to install,
Because you're not trying to fish a bulky yellow RCA plug through the rubber goose neck between boot door and main chassis :)
Its a minute plug instead.

So on the end of the loom is your RCA plug for the camera signal:
This plugs in to the rear of your compatable headunit
And the blue cable:
This is a signal feed, it carries positive power from the reverse bulb to the headunit causing the headunit to automatically display the reverse signal each time you put the car in to reverse:


Open Boot Door,

Remove parcel shelf and store in safe place.

Remove both torx screws in side panel:





Useful to have a plastic bottle or something to store all screws in preventing them from loss :


On the boot door there's two grab handles,
Inside these handles are two torx screws; one in each pocket.



Remove both screws:


Now with one hand holding the metal boot door,
Pull down the plastic panel with your other hand.


Here's what's beneath:


Now remove all six Nuts from iside the panel.
This can be awkward when working over head,
I suggest sitting in the boot on the sill,
With your feet on the ground outside the vehicle,
Bring the boot panel down on to your lap makes it much easier to work with,

Also when removing these nuts;
Count the rotations to removal
This avoids over tightening when refitting the panel.

Here's the nut locations:



After removing the nuts there are two clips which grip in to the boot,
These are quite brittle if they snap you can seal with a small amount of silicone sealant,
There only there to assist alignment of the panel as the bolts do all the gripping.

When the outer panel is removed you will see a rubber grommet like the one in the image below:


It's possible to disconnect a plug inside the boot panel allowing full removal of the panel,
Allowing it to be brought to a table for working with,

Here's what the loom is like dissected from the panels:


The single plug on far side of the rubber grommet is the one that's inside the boot panel.
Unplug it and the whole panel is free to remove:

At this point the standard electronic boot handle should be removed by unplugging it from the loom and squeezing the retaining clips from either side of the unit.



Cut loom plug from the end of the boot handle loom:


Strip ends ready for crimping on the new terminals:


Ensure both cables are passing through the boot panel prior to crimping

Insert one cable inside one of the red crimps and squeeze it tight with top of crimping tool.

Repeat on the second terminal,
It doesn't matter which terminal is crimped to which cable in this case.

Following image is for illustration purpose:


Working on this guide across the weekend guys,
I've gotta back fill with images and some text,

I didn't get the required images taken at the time of installation because it was so therapeutic to install.
Ill edit across the weekend.

Green&yellow feed is reverse positive:

Guide: Fitting Dual Camera Dvr System Focus Mk2 & Mk2.5

21 December 2014 - 11:01 AM

Guide: Stealth Dual Camera DVR system Focus Mk2 & Mk2.5

I've post this information in my build thread but figured it would work quite as a guide aswell considering the quality of the kit is exceptional.

Shopping list:
DVR System:
TF/Micro SD CaHrd 32Gb:
Piggy back fuse adaptor:
USB Socket kit:
Suction cup disc:
Super Steel Glue:
PVC Tape:
8.4mm Ring Crimp Terminal:

Where possible the above items have been purchased from the same supplier to save money on shipping,
AutoStar are top supplier of automotive electrical equipment my number one supplier throughout all my guides quality guaranteed.

The USB socket kit I've chosen has two sockets,
So if like me you have a TomTom Satnav,
You may wish to purchase this USB cable to power your Satnav from the USB socket aswell freeing up the 12V socket in the centre console:

The goal is to mount the 3.5" DVR unit hidden inside the glovebox mounted on its suction cup arm,
It can be flipped down if required.

It will be powered by the USB socket which is also mounted inside the glovebox and power is provided by the piggy back fuse adaptor pluged in to a 12v ignition feed.

The DVR unit also has its own internal rechargeable battery just the same as a Satnav,
It can be set to wake up and record if movement is detected outside of the vehicle when the car is parked, without draining the car battery,

The system automatically begins to record when power is provided from ignition,

It can also take still photo images on command.

The video quality is 720P HD
The unit records two separate videos in full screen for both front and rear camera.

The cameras themselves are quite discreet and following this installation guide will provide optimum stealth results.

So here's the DVR system and whats in the box:







Rear Camera:


Front Camera:


Standard 12V to USB supply:



Screen mount:


Now to get fitting,

Open glovebox,

Remove several screws

Slide out glove box
Bring to table or work bench.
At this point we need the glue and suction cup disc:



Mount the suction cup bracket from the DVR to the suction cup base and trial fit,


As you can see the roof of the glovebox isn't flush smooth,


I first trimmed down the suction cup base in a bid to obtain complete flush contact between base and roof:


Quick trial fit and still not 100%



[img]http://i575.photobuc... main chassis.

Using some PVC tape; attach end of loom to a hard length of grass strimmer line or cable makes it easier to fish through the Goose neck.

When through the Goose neck,

Gently remove the rubber seal from around the boot door,

Route cable with attached plastic line;
Out from between roof lining and roof of the car until all is through.

Next remove the parcel shelf for temporary storage,

Remove the two torx screws securing the side panel.

Next using a flat head screwdriver;
Remove plastic grommets in C pillar panels revealing some Philips head screws.

Remove these screws to allow s
Refit parcel shelf
Close boot door,

Rear camera now fitted inside 35% tint, not even visible from outside :)



Now installing the USB socket kit:


I had initially planned to mount it on the top rear section of the glovebox opposite the vent,


On physical trial fit though; there's not enough space back there to allow it fit,

Best alternative option was the upper right corner of the glovebox.



I haven't got the required size of hole-saw to drill it,
So I've used the bracket as a template for cutting it out with a dremil;


Quick trial fit inserting it in backwards for trial purposes,
Don't worry about rough edges because there's a lip on the socket covers it from view as you can see in images below;




Now fitting snug,
Time to remove and insert the correct way around.

Prior to putting on the securing plastic ring.



Looking very tidy inside the glovebox :)




Installing USB cable,

I had this 1.5M USB cable that came with my TomTom Satnav back in 2010 so I've chosen to use it for this installation because it has a 90 Degree fitting that works quite well with the design of flip down DVR.


I didn't like the idea of trailing the USB cable inside the glovebox as it looks untidy and liability of getting caught up in things,

So i cut out a small section in the top of the glovebox allowing the small plug pass through,


When the cable is through;
Plug in the USB to the socket,
Create a comfortable elbow on the cable inside the glovebox.



Patch inside area of the hole using PVC tape,

Then mix up a small bit of Super Steel to patch up the hole from outside the glovebox,


The PVC tape on the inside will hold the glue while it sets hard filling the gap :)
Tape can be removed after 20 minutes of applying the glue.

I then masked up sections of the usb cable,
Prior to applying some more Super Steel weld,
Then removing tape after 20 minutes,
Bonding the cable to the glovebox nicely.





Looks tidy and wont get caught in anything.
When completed and dry,
Bring glovebox back to the car

Ensure positive and negative feeds are correctly identified and attached to the USB socket:


Earth feed:
With the glovebox still removed; look inside the area to see a bolt securing a crimped ring terminal earth feed:


Remove bolt and cut the earth feed to the desired length followed by crimping on a replacement ring terminal:
Loop ring terminal on to bolt just like a washer and insert bolt back in to place.






Flip down passenger fuse box,

Fish positive feed from socket down to the fuse board area and obtain the piggy back adaptor:


Cut the positive feed to desired length,


Strip terminal and crimp on the piggy back adaptor.

Remove fuse from the USB power supply kit loom and insert it in to top socket of the piggyback adaptor:



With glovebox work now complete,
Route cables from both cameras in through to DVR unit,
Plug in camera feeds following the power feed.


Still folds up hidden out of direct view and obstruction :)

Secure all 7 screws and return all items to glovebox;


Final task now is fitting the piggy back fuse to a switched ignition live feed in the passenger footwell fuse board.

Ive gotta edit this section as i study Haynes manual in search of a switched live fuse location on the board.
Unplug fuse: F100
Insert this fuse in to piggy back adaptor,
Insert piggyback in to original fuse location in slot F100

Ill also insert images of removing panels and insert them among the text.

The DVR unit can then be flipped up and locked,
Now hidden from view and no obstruction to the standard operation of the glovebox.
It records automatically no need to touch it :)


Working on this guide across the next few days guys,
I've gotta back fill with images but we will get there by New Years day :)

Thanks for viewing my guide,
See my other guides linked on my Profile page.