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Member Since 14 Jan 2011
Offline Last Active Nov 27 2015 08:09 PM

#513084 Mondeo Mk4 - Creaking And Fumes

Posted by Wappygixer on 17 August 2015 - 05:24 PM

My mrs Firsta tdci had the same symptoms regarding fumes in the cabin. It was an injector seal. Dead easy to spot. Open the bonnet, remove the black cover on top of the engine, if an injector is leaking into the engine bay you will see dampness around the base of the injector body. It's a pretty easy fix and quite cheap. It cost £20 to do all 4 injectors on the Fiesta (that was doing it myself). What ever the cause is though you may also want to replace the cabin filter as it will be tainted with fuel fumes.

#506328 Egr Valve

Posted by Wappygixer on 26 July 2015 - 05:32 PM

I though I would share my thoughts on removing the EGR from a mk4 Mondeo. Unfortunately due to stress levels I never took and photos.

The EGR is at the back of the engine on the top. 4 bolts are easy to see and remove, 2 of the bolts fix the EGR to the engine block and the other 2 bolt the EGR to the EGR cooler. There are 5 other bolts you need to remove as well. These are for the metal pipe that goes from the EGR to the inlet manifold, 2 at either end and 1 bolt that secures this metal pipe to the side of the engine.

The one bolt I couldn't find was underneath the EGR itself. You cant see it at all. I ended up going out to buy one of those dentist style mirrors which helped no end. This last bolt is an allen bolt that requires a 5mm allen key, the allen key needs cutting down somewhat in order to fit as space is very limited. Once this bolt is loosened (you dont need to remove it) the EGR can be removed by sliding it back towards the windscreen area. This whole precess took be about 2 hours plus to figure out and then about 10 minutes to put back together.

After all of this my EGR was nothing like I was expecting. My car has covered 80,000 miles and it was clean, a bit of soot but other wise there was nothing. My MK3 was caked at this mileage and to the point that you could scrape it out. It seems the MK4 runs muh cleaner.

I certainly wont bother removing it again unless it is to replace it. I was hoping this was the cause of my poor fuel economy but it now seems it's my MAF sensor but a full diagnostic on Tuesday will confirm this for sure.

I'm working for the next few days but if I get a few spare minutes I'll take some pictures that might help others out and save you time trying to figure out how it comes apart (Haynes manual was next to useless)

#452228 Sound Deadening Doors - Do I Need The Membrane Still?

Posted by Wappygixer on 06 February 2015 - 07:19 PM

There isn't much metal around the speakers so I don't think much would be gained.

I pretty much coated nearly all of the outer skin. It is tight to move in but it's more than possible.


Once I've done the rear doors I do plan on doing the rear wheel arches and undere the rear seat

#452212 Sound Deadening Doors - Do I Need The Membrane Still?

Posted by Wappygixer on 06 February 2015 - 06:30 PM

Well its all done. Wish I'd taken some photos of the install now but I was concerned about getting it done in time due to the weather.


Good points.

Speaker quality is vastly improved. I've set the bass setting 2 higher and still no rattle.

Doors sounds much denser and thud when closed.


Bad points

I tried to fill in the gaps in the inner door panel. I did fill them initially and went to fit the door card but due to the door card requiring a recess for the pocket to fit into I had the remove the excess matting.


I did manage to get the water membrane off in one piece. To refit it after, I used the roller which I also used for rolling down the matting. It seemed to stick back ok. If it does leak then I'll get the hairdrier out and heat it up and repress it.


It is a bit difficult sticking the matting to the outer door skin and I have a few bits of skin missing from the backs of my hands.

I bought a 30 sheet pack and I've used about 18 sheets doing the front doors. The rear doors I will tackle on Sunday, weather permitting. On these though I will just do the outer skins as I don't think its added any real benefit to doing the innner skin.


All in all for £40 its made the stereo sound much better. It would have cost more than this for new speakers and the doors would still have rattled


I must also add the doors seemed to have been coated in a form of wax. I removed this with some standard thinners else the matting wouldn't have stuck

#311280 Reliability - Mondeo Tdci 130 Or Petrol Car?

Posted by Wappygixer on 12 December 2013 - 06:49 PM

I've got a 56 Mondeo 2.0 TDCI.

Its my first car since passing my test earlier this year.

It came with one owner (company car) with a full Ford service history. It runs great and it's economical returning around 50mpg.


I had a knocking and stuttering on start up so decided to replace the DMF. Upon opening the gearbox I found it had already had a new DMF and flywheel. It turned out the issue I had was with a temperature sensor. A quick software update from Ford and it was all sorted.


The radiator fan wasn't working so the aircon got red hot when stopped. This is a common problem. The electronic box dies and is very expensive from Ford. I fitted a prefacelift fan and control box and spliced in the wiring and it work perfectly and only cost me £10 for the fan, surround, rad and air con cooler.


I'm still a little paranoid about injectors but if it happenes it happens. If you search the internet you will find bad reviews on everycar.


Take your time looking for the right car. I opted for a Zetec Nav spec as I couldn't find a Ghia spec at the time. I've since added electric rear windows (£30) full heated leather interior (£35) auto dim rear view mirror (£15)


Parts for Mondeos are so cheap and so are the cars themselves. I was recently looking for a Focus for my Daughter a couple of months ago and I couldn't believe how much money they were going for for the spec/age. They make the Mondeo seem a bargain.


Buy it, look after it, love it and if anything goes wrong just accept sh*t happens.

#278374 Aircon Only Works When Moving Mk3 On 55 Plate

Posted by Wappygixer on 29 July 2013 - 01:16 PM

I've had issues with my aircon only working when I was moving but once I had stopped it would then blow out very hot air.

After a bit of research I found out the fan controller had failed and the fan was no longer coming on as it should when the aircon was switched on.


I have a 2.0 TDCI on a 55 plate. This is the model where Ford changed the fan controller and fan. I searched high and low to find the correct fan but failed. Ford only wanted £400 for a new unit.


I then started looking at replacements from other models and found a guy who had used a fan from an earlier Mondeo.

I picked the fan up today and I've fitted the whole unit with the fan fascia and it all works a treat. The wiring connector is different but the wiring colours are the same, black, brown and blue ECU wires. I was lucky in the the breakers had cut off the loom side connector so all I had to do was solder the wires in.


My aircon now works when stationary, it's just a shame the heat wave has now finished.


I hope others will find this of use.

#249610 EGR Clean

Posted by Wappygixer on 05 April 2013 - 07:53 PM

I'm on  my first diesel and Mondeo 130 tdci mk3.

It was running at the low 40's mpg on the trip computer. I cleaned the EGR valve which was caked as was the maqnifold which was also cleaned. I'm now getting around 48-49 mpg. This is on a 10 mile trip to work on mostly 30-40mph roads.


Its a very easy job to complete. The longest part was getting the manifold off and back on again due to all the wires in the way.