Sam Price

here is a photo with the first solder I did- excuse my soldering, it's not great and I'll just have to see how long it lasts!

 DSC_0696.jpg   383.05K   74 downloads

For any of you who are interested or are having a similar problem I've fixed the problem so far.

I took apart the turbo actuator housing for the umpteenth time but actually checked each solder joint that comes off of the circuit board to the take power to the motor...a small delicate nudge on each one is enough to see if any are loose. I also checked carefully with a multimeter for continuity- you want to get your multimeter probes on the piece of the joint that is attached to each contact which is quite difficult otherwise you end up just testing the solid wire and always get a positive result...

Anyway, two of the joints were loose and had come adrift very very slightly after only thinking it was one- enough to short and set the flashing glow plug light off and set the turbo with no boost.

So after reading about peoples attempts I took the plunge and got a dremel-type tool with a tiny abrasive ball to get rid of the tin coating on the contact pad where the joint is attached to. This left a nice copper surface for me to carefully solder the joints back on. Just to let you know my soldering iron is a piece of poo that I actually got free, has no temperature gauge or anything and I still managed to secure the joint with a fairly tidy solder.

The actuator was then put back on the car and I gave it a start- no flashing light. So I get the engine nice and warm with a test drive, come back and then restart. Again, no flashing light and engine running as normal!!

Will let you guys know if this fix works with more hot starting etc

SWEEEEET

Cheers

Does anyone have any other suggestions?

Is it possible to use a different actuator unit on my turbo, where and who have said that you have to get the whole assembly? What would actually be calibrated between the actuator circuit/motor and the turbo?

It seems to be yes. I'm not really sure how to check the joints with a meter and if I did wouldn't they just read OK because it works fine when I start from cold?

Thanks