Brigante

I have a set of oem ish looking black aftermarket head light with built in drl's in the form of halos

 

The halos replace the sidelights so therefor come on when I switch the sidelights on

 

Which obviously means to have the halos on during the day, I need to drive round with the rear sidelights in the tail lights turned on, which is annoying and most likely annoys people driving behind me

 

My question is how would I go about wiring the halos to come on when the ignition is turned on? So they come on automatically when the engine is running and don't have to be turned on with the sidelight switch, and don't have to have the tail lights illuminated to have the halos on.

 

Am I right in thinking it should be a straight forward job and just a case of tapping the halo wires into an ignition wire? If so, which wire?

Alright folks another couple of questions

The other day I accidently blew the fuse for my head unit. Changed the fuse, all is working well again, except for the radio

No matter what I do the radio cant tune in n wont pick up a signal.

I try searching for the strongest channels but all i get is white noise.

The aerial is definitely plugged into the aerial adaptor, which is definitely plugged into the headunit. All wiring appears fine too.

Is there a separate fuse for the aerial? If not, any suggestions what could be stopping the radio tuning in?

Second question

For a while now my driverside central locking switch wont engage. It will push in all the way, and i can hear a faint sound of the mechanism trying to do something, but it wont engage.

Its only the driverside that has the problem, the passenger side will engage all the central locking, including the driverside. The driverside does properly engage when activated by the passenger side as the door cant be opened from the outside.

The driverside can also unlock the central locking. But it just cant lock it.

I believe it happened when i tried to activate the central locking from the driverside while parked up and i accidently hadnt shut the door properly.

I've took the interior scan switch out and gave the cental locking hinge a liberal blasting with wd40. This hasnt done anything.

Annoyingly, the other day when i went to activate the central locking from the driverside to demonstrate to my missus that it wont work, it worked perfectly. But then when i unlocked it and tried it again, it stopped working again and only worked that once

so i know its capable of working but chooses not to


Apologies for the lengthy post but has anyone got any ideas for either issue?

Here is a guide for any focus owners that have a higher trim level such as the titanium or the ghia and have a storage compartment on top of the dash where the gauge pod would of went on the ST

 

If you don't have this storage compartment though you could always retro fit it with the help of Lenny's guide to fitting the gauge pod.

 

 

I dunno about everyone else but I hate wires. Especially when its dangling across me dash. Till now when using satnav I've had the wire across the dash with the excess tucked away in the garage door. But it still goes across my headunit which is annoying.

 

This is why I decided to create this

 

 

Which means instead of having a long wire trailing down over the dash, it only has to go a few inches into the top of the dash

 

 

 

 

Now for the guide

 

I will need to insert a few extra photos in various places shortly but for now I'll write what I've got

 

 

First step is to gain access to behind the existing 12v supply. On both the mk2 and 2.5 you will have to remove the side panel in the driverside footwell for the purpose of routing the new loom up into the dash. This is easy as theres just a pop off cover covering a screw, and with the screw removed the panel just pulls straight off

 

 

(Ignore this random red wire it's something I've put ready in place for a separate mod I'm yet to do)

 

On the mk2 you will now have access to the back of the existing 12v supply, but if you have the mk2.5 with the power supply in the centre console by the gear leaver. I think it is easy enough to remove but I'm not sure if just the gear stick gator will need to be removed to route the new wire across and up into the dash, or whether you will have to remove the whole trim itself. Either way this is easily done though and Clive has written a guide on this.

 

 

Next step is to remove the air vents. A small flat blade screwdriver down the sides will dislodge the clips holding them in place and they will simply pull out

 

 

Next you need to reach in and gently start to push the storage up and start to dislodge the clips on this side

 

 

 

To unclip the other clips, it is recommended to remove the speedo cluster to push the clips up from underneath.

 

This would be a case of dropping the steering rack down to its lowestposition, removing the leather trim on top of the steering column, this simply pulls out to unclip, and then you have access to the 2 screws holding the clocks in place. Then the clocks pull out and unclip the loom from behind.

 

I found it easier though, to not do this.

 

Instead, once I got the storage to this point

 

 

I found it easy enough to finish the rest off using a small flat blade screwdriver working around to gently lift the storage up to expose the clips, and then giving the clips a little squeeze to finish them off while lifting the storage out

 

 

 

 

This caused no damage to my dash by being careful

 

You will also need to remove your head unit

 

 

 

A guide to this can be found in my signature as part of my guide to fitting an aftermarket headunit

 

This is everything you need to remove for the mod

 

 

Obviously to carry out this mod you will need an additional 12v socket and wiring loom. Clive very kindly donated a spare set up he had laying about

 

 

One end is the patch that goes between the existing 12v socket and existing loom

 

 

And the other end has 2 bayonet connectors that go onto the new sockets live and earth terminals

 

 

Unfortunately this loom is rather rare, but it should easily be mocked up yourself using some twin core wire and bayonet connecters for the patch

 

Here is a diagram courtesy of Clive

 

 

What you will need to do is reach in behind the socket and pull off the wiring loom

 

 

 

Now what you need to do is connect the one end of the patch to the 12v socket, and the other end of the patch to the existing loom

 

 

You will now have the job of routing the new wire from the bottom of the dash out though the top where the storage was. This should actually be easily done with the headunit out of the way

 

 

Next job is to cut a hole in the dash storage to accommodate the new socket. For this a 22mm hole cutter will be required

 

I didn't have a hole cutter, so instead butchered the hole with a dremel

 

 

 

The position of the hole has to be where the middle hole out of the 3 existing small holes was. It was easy enough using a dremel, just takes a little more time to keep cutting and checking accordingly so as to not
make the hole too big. It also ended up a little messier than a hole cutter would of done but you wont see it so the end result is the same

 

Now its time to take the dash storage back to the car and replace it in the dash

 

Pull the new wire though the hole first as it'll obviously be needed

 

 

 

Now gently begin to clip it back into place in the dash and simply attach the bayonet connectors onto the spades of the socket

 

 

Putting the socket into the dash actually turned out to be more faff than I bargained for, due to the components in the dash bashing against the socket making it rather fiddly

 

But with a bit of perseverance and plenty of swearing I just about managed it

 

 

I didn't like the look of the 2 little holes exposed so I also decided to cut a hole in the rubber lining insert and fit that back in as well

 

 

So now rather than have wires dangling across the dash, it stows away in the top of the dash

 

 

Making it all look much neater and tidier

 

It was a bit more of a faff than I expected but the end result was worth it and works nicely

 

 

Refit all parts removed in the reverse of how you removed them and job done.

 

Apologies in advance for the length of the guide as I do tend to rabbit a bit when explaining things

Was going to start a thread asking if anyone else had been experiencing this, but couldnt get on the site to start it.

Been experiencing  site issues for about a week now starting with the log out button.

Dunno if this one applies to anyone else or just me but when on my laptop, the log out button stopped working. No matter how many times I'd click it I'd still be logged in. Then I workd out I could log out by clicking onto the sign up page first and then click log out.

Then around the same time the forums decided it didnt like google chrome and I'd just get an error message as it couldnt find the page. So I had to use  firefox to use the forums instead.

Then last night it decided it didnt wanna work at all and I just got an error page with firefox too saying summin about a site admin needs to fix it so I couldnt log in all last night either. Was the same story on my phone too.

Was very annoying indeed.

Is anyone else experiencing these issues?

And whats going mods? Has too many ads been placed so now the sites overloaded?

Here for sale i have a diesel engine cover

 

I believe it will fit 1.6 tdci engines on the focus and fiesta