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DanGersFord

Member Since 25 Oct 2012
Offline Last Active Jul 22 2014 04:25 PM
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Fiesta mk6 Stereo/Fascia Removal/Replacement

Posted DanGersFord on 25 May 2013 - 09:22 PM in Ford Fiesta Guides

A lot of people seem to struggle with removing the stereo/center console fascia and replacing it with the heater/blower direction switch working correctly, so i thought I'd do a guide to hopefully help people.

 

Fascia Panel Removal

There is 2 panels that need to be removed to access the stereo the first being the fascia underneath the steering column. There is 5 screws that need to be removed to remove this first panel, 3 along the bottom and 2 behind the OBM port flap-see pictures below (screws hilighted):

DSC_1058.jpg

DSC_1057.jpg

 

There is also a clip that holds this fascia in place once you have removed the 5 screws the panel leterally just pulls towards you to remove the panel.

 

This then gives you access to the 8 screws which need to be removed to take the center console panel off. You will need to open the glove box and may find it easier to squeeze the inner tray together and fully drop the glove box down to give you better access.

There are 2 screws when you open the glove box:

DSC_10641.jpg

2 screws along the bottom:

DSC_1054.jpg

2 screws behind the the first panel you removed:

DSC_1055.jpg

And 2 screws behind the window heater switch.

To remove the window heater switch use and electricians screwdriver to just lever the switch out:

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There is then a plug that needs to be removed just pushing the clip at the bottom and pulling to fully remove the switch.

You now have access to the 2 screws located behind.

DSC_1051.jpg

 

Once you have removed the screws, again there is a few clips holding the panel in place. Pull at the the panel and it will just pop off but BE CAREFUL as the clips at the top are terrible for scratching you stereo or anything they even slightly rub against. You need to remove the 2 clips plugged into the heater control unit to fully remove the panel again there is a small lever at the bottom of each plug that need to be pushed before you can pull the plugs out.

DSC_1043.jpg .

Then unhook the siver heater temperature control cable and pull out the heater position plug.

DSC_1044.jpg

DSC_1045.jpg

 

 

Stereo Removal

The stereo is the easiest bit of this job to do. There is literally just 4 screws that hold the stereo in place and then the plugs at the back of it. " screws at the top and 2 at the bottom and this doesn't matter whether its the double single or custom stereo that is in position.

DSC_1041.jpg

DSC_1042.jpg

 

Fascia Replacement

There is no two ways about this, this is one pig of a job but be patient and stick with it and you will get it. Once you've done it once you'll find it a lot easier to do if you ever need to do it again in future.

The first thing to do is line the fascia panel up roughly into position hanging loose and plug you heater controls back in.

Next you need to reattach the temperature control wire into position simply pushing it into place its fairly obvious when you see it how it goes into position see picture for reference.

DSC_1046.jpg

 

Now is by far the hardest bit of the job but once you know how to do it it's not actually to bad. To refit the heater control plug what you need to do is push the fascia as close into position as you can while still being able to get your hand down the back of it.

The plug pushes into the bit you can see the arrow pointing at in the following picture:

DSC_1047.jpg

Like so:

DSC_1048.jpg

Note that there is only one way this plug will push in and you will need to line the flat section of the plug up with where the flat section inside the plug is. When you push the plug into position it feels like it pops out of position at the other end. This IS normal just make sure it is plugged in at the front and that you haven't knocked the temperature control cable loose again. When you push the fascia fully back into position this re-engages the plug at the rear of the steering column. Push the fascia into the clips that hold it in at the top and at this point i would turn on your ignition and turn your fan to speed setting 3, then test your heater position switch and make sure when you switch it through the various positions everythings blowing air where it should be in correspondance with the switch. Leave the fan going for a few minutes and test the hot and cold settings making sure that its blowing hot when it should be and cold when it should be. Leave a minute or so when you've changed the temperature as it doesn't change straight away.

When your happy simply replace the 8 screws being careful with the ones behind the window heater switch as they are very easy to drop.

 

All you need to do now is push the fascia under the steering column into its clip and screw this into position also.

 

Ive done this guide mainly on how to remove the center console panel and replace it as i has to be done for various things. If you have any problems feel free to messege me.

 

Thanks for taking the time to read my guide.

 

 

 

 

 




Fitting Blue Illuminated Window/Window Heater Switches

Posted DanGersFord on 14 May 2013 - 06:00 PM in Ford Fiesta Guides

After recently changing my window/window heater switches from standard green to blue illumination I thought i would do a quick guide on how to swap them over.

 

 

Window Heater Switch

Use your electricians screwdriver to prise the heater switch out from its housing in the following positions:

DSC_0013.jpg

DSC_0012.jpg

 

You then can pull the switch from the housing to unplug from the wiring which can be done by pushing the small release button hilighted in red in the following picture:

DSC_0014 E.jpg

 

You simply then plug the new switch in and push it back into position and you have the following:

DSC_0030.jpg

 

You can see the original colour of the switch if you look at the heater control panel below:

DSC_0035.jpg

 

Window Control Switches

 

To remove the window switches again use your electricians screwdriver to prise the window switch out of its housing, I would recommend using a cloth to protect the plastic edge where you dig your screw driver in or you'll end up marking it slightly as you can see I have :lol:

DSC_0015.jpg

It is quite difficult to remove the switches but stick at it and you'll soon have them out. You then have the following:

DSC_0022.jpg

DSC_0019 E.jpg

 

Note the red circle hilighting the push button to release the first plug from the switch (drivers side has 2 plugs/passenger side has one) remove this plug first of all then this allows access to the push button the release the second plug hilighted below:

DSC_0021 E.jpg

 

Once both plugs are disconnected, simply plug in your new switch and pop the switch back into its housing.

 

As stated earlier the passenger side switch only has one plug to disconnect:

DSC_0023.jpg

 

The switch is removed in exactly the same way as the drivers side switch.

 

Once both switches are in you have this:

DSC_0032.jpg

DSC_0033.jpg

DSC_0031.jpg

 

I bought the blue illuminated switches from ebay but if you're handy with soldering its realy easy to take this switches apart and change the LED to a blue one.

I ALSO HAVE THE BLUE ILLUMINATED HEADLIGHT SWITCH AND WILL BE UPDATING THIS GUIDE TO INCLUDE HOW TO CHANGE THAT WHEN I HAVE FITTED MY FRONT FOGLIGHTS AS I HAVE GOT THE HEADLIGHT SWITCH WITH THE ADDITIONAL FRONT FOG LIGHT OPTION. I'M ALSO GOING TO ATTEMPT TO CHANGE THE HEATER CONTROL PANEL TO BLUE ALSO ALTHOUGH I'M NOT SURE IF THIS IS POSSIBLE.

 

 

Why not check out my guide to change your speedo illumination colour also: http://www.fordowner...it-fiesta-mk-6/

 

Thanks for reading my guide hopefully its usefull to someone.




Fitting A Lockwood Dial Kit Fiesta MK 6

Posted DanGersFord on 09 December 2012 - 09:53 PM in Ford Fiesta Guides

Thought I would write a short guide on how to fit a dial kit after doing it myself today. Its a fairly simple procedure and only takes about 15-30 mins.

This was my speedo to start with:
DSC_0461.jpg ,
DSC_0466.jpg

And this was the kit as it came (old dial kit, I forgot to take pic of new one); DSC_0472.jpg .

Firstly with the engine cold, start the car up and take a picture of the exact position of the needles with the car idling. (This helps to make sure you've replaced the needles correctly later on).

Turn the engine off and remove the instrument panel cover by putting your fingers in by the bottom of the dial faces and pulling the bottom out towards you and then pulling the top of it to fully remove it(4 clips secure this piece into position).
DSC_0006.jpg
 
2 screws secure the instrument pod cluster in position and they are situated at the top of the cluster.
DSC_0010.jpg
Remove these and you will be able to remove the cluster far enough from the dash to remove the cable from the back-there is a small black push over clip which you need to lift and push over to the right hand side of the plug to be able to disengange the cable (See pictures).
DSC_0013.jpg
DSC_0012.jpg
 
Once the cluster is removed, there is six clips around the middle of the cluster
DSC_0014.jpg
DSC_0468.jpg ,
Pop the clips open to seperate the black front fascia/lens from the rear of the cluster to allow you acces to the dials/needles.
DSC_0015.jpg
 
Remove your trip reset buttons simply by pulling on them firmly. They're quite stiff but the will come.
DSC_0016.jpg
DSC_0017.jpg

You then need to remove the needles (its worth taking a picture of the exact position of the needles as they are to start with) the instructions that came with the kit said to use hair drier to ease removal of the needles but I got them off no problem at all without one. If you do use one hold ot 50mm away from the panel and use abit of card to protect the digital displays.
To remove the needles get 2 teaspoons and carefully place the scoop end of the spoons directly under opposite sides of the needles-in line with each other (see picture) and gently prise the needle upwards applying even pressure with the teaspoons to remove it from its spindle. Remove both needles.
DSC_0018.jpg
(Ignore the needle position on mine, I only thought to make the guide after I fitted the new dial face and messed up slightly when I was looking to do something else with the cluster)
 
You can now peel the existing black dial face from the back plate. The instructions stated that methalated spirits may be required to remove any adhesive residue from the back plate but I didn't need to. You then need to remove the paper covers from the adhesive strips on your new fascia and then position the new dial face over the back plate, it is fairly simple to line up as it should be cut to the exact right shape, once happy with the alignment press/smooth the dial face down firmly and clean with a clean soft cloth.
Push the needles gently back into the exact position you removed them from (refer to the picture you took when removing). Clean any finger prints on the dial face before reasembly.
Reassemble the instrument cluster in the reverse order from which you took it apart-clip the front facsia back onto the back panel and replace your trip reset buttons-these just push back into position, push the plug back into the back of the cluster and secure with the same clip that you need to lift to remove it, then replace the unit back into your car and secure into position with the 2 screws at the top.
Turn your engine on and your needles should be in the same position as the picture you took previously. You may need to readjust the needles if you havent replaced them correctly. At this point I took the car for a short test drive just to make sure the needles were working ok and everything seemed to be working ok.
All thats left for you to do then is to replace the instrument panel hood. Line the hood up ready to be pushed into the clips;
DSC_0021.jpg
Then push the hood backwards untill its clipped into position and thats you Posted Image.

I have very basic knowledge of cars, kind of just picking up things as i go and it only took me about 15-20 minutes to fit the new dials and it was fairly easy to do and it looks great; DSC_0470.jpg DSC_0471.jpg .
 
I RECOMMEND TAKING THE CAR TO MAKE SURE YOUR SPEEDO CALIBRATION IS CORRECT JUST INCASE YOU HAVEN'T REPLACED THE NEEDLES CORRECTLY. I DID THIS JUST FOR PEACE OF MIND AND IT WAS ABSOLUTELY FINE.


If anyone has any questions feel free to ask ill do my best to answer Posted Image hope this guide helps someone.
P.S. I took most of the pictures after I had fitted my new dial face just incase there's any confusion.


Fiesta Mk 6-6.5 (prefacelift-facelift) brakelight conversion

Posted DanGersFord on 21 November 2012 - 09:33 PM in Ford Fiesta Guides

The only difference between the mk 6 brake lights and the facelift brake lights is that the facelift lights have 2 reverse lights and 2 fog lights as opposed to the mk 6 prefacelift having a fog light one side and a reverse light on the other (See wiring diagrams). **Please note that there is a difference between the 3 door and 5 door versions of the brake light so make sure that you order the correct light units for your car**
 

Basically you need to buy the light units, the bulbs holders, new gasket seals (http://www.fordparts...17734_c_341.htm), a bit of 2core wire and detachable connecter plugs (http://www.autoelect...t/39/category/7 [9 terminals product code 051305])as the facelift lights are different from the original and try and get hold of a couple of push lock clips.
DSC_04941.jpg
(same clips as at the top of the original prefacelift lights).
 

I got the lights/bulb holders/gaskets and push lock clips i needed from http://www.fordpartsuk.com/ (you may need to go to the parts request section of the site for the clips and bulb holders https://www.fordpart...artsrequest.htm) and managed to get the connector plugs from here (http://www.autoelect...t/39/category/7 [9 terminals product code 051305]).
You need to run the 2 core wire between the two sets of lights wiring up the connector plugs with the additional wires, wired in with the corresponding reverse/fog light on each side and tuck the wire behind the plastic just behind the boot carpet, and the wire each plug up the same as i have done so in the wiring diagrams (I applogise for poor quality diagrams I've never attempted to make one before lol)
Light Wiring.png
Plug Wiring.png
DSC_04931.jpg
(This is the type of connector plug that i used)
Insert the push lock clips into the holes at the bottom (these are required as the facelift lights do not have the additional rod/wingnut in the boot to secure the lights into place) and I also applied a new seal around the hole for the wires at this point to prevent water ingression-someone had fitted a massive seal and siliconed it before which actually made it worse hence the reason for all the scratch marks as i had to removed the old silicone before fitting the new seals
DSC_04961.jpg .
Connect the plugs and push the lights into the clips and secure into place with the 2 screws.
DSC_04991.jpg
The 2 bits hilighted in the picture push into the 2 clips on the car also pictured is the bulb holders (wiring harness) required.
 
 
I hope this helps anyone wanting to do this conversion as it is realy simple and great looking modification to make on the prefacelift model as the factory fitted lights aren't that nice. Just wanting to clear up any confusion as Ive looked all over for how to do it myself and theres nothing lol but it definately is possible and if you're not confident with wiring it shouldnt cost more than £20-30 to get an auto electrician to wire them in for you. If anyone has any questions, please feel free to contact me http://www.fordowner...48-dangersford/

Before:
.facebook_-766517941.jpg ,
.facebook_5463848051.jpg .

After:
DSC_04631.jpg ,
IMG00091-20121120-15041.jpg
 
Id recommend purchasing a set of Cree w5w 501 reverse lights (http://www.amazon.co...t/dp/B00B4QHG7O)
 
and also a set of silver vision indicator bulbs to prevent you getting the fried egg effect :) (http://www.autobulbs...ator-bulbs.html)

 
 
I appologise for the wiring diagram quality I've never tried to make one up before lol. Hopefully its of use to you.