What really bugs me FOCA is that if they had been honest with me to start with and said they weren't willing to repair I would have swallowed that and looked for another car, even one with them as I would have been impressed that they told me the truth.
Now they have created a very unhappy possible customer who will do anything to prevent anyone dealing with them. I've already posted everywhere I can, mentioning their name so web searches bring it up.
I really can't understand their short term thinking.
Bet their mum's are proud of them..........not
Its a cuthroat business and even the deposit you paid helps with the cash-flow and might have helped a salesman make his target/ etc
So they got your deposit money, and the interest/ cash flow on it, and chalked up another sale (even though it fell through) - they ay have thought you might have given them a lot of hassle and been a "nit-picker"(so they avoided selling the car to you but still got your deposit money temporarily) - the next customer probably won't notice the fault that you noticed
Lying to customers is second nature to many of them and they would have thought it was "normal" and acceptable ("part of the job") - even when they "cross the line" - they would not have expected to get cought out by you
I got my refund yesterday morning. And today the car is back on sale!!!
I assume they strung me along hoping I would back out and they wouldn't have to fix the problem. Poor bar steward who buys that car.
So I'm guessing it never went anywhere near the workshop and they never had any intention of fixing it. And the salesman and his manager lied all the way, even to blaming the workshop yesterday. If they had been the slightest bit honest ( i know the words honesty and salesmen/ women shouldn't appear in the same sentence) then I would have looked at alternatives, but they couldn't do that. Somehow that would have been easier.
So TrustFord Eltham is a dealership to avoid like the plague. How they have the nerve to use the word Trust is amazing!
And before any salesmen/ women start I did sales for a while and hated it...because I couldn't bull.
Exactly what i was thinking they would do when i read your first post
Many of these stealers are the same or worse, its not just that one
I had this issue recently, when I put my foot to the floor there was no bite, and a large fizzing sound. (i now know that this is air)
The air was escaping from the two rubber air intakes at the front of the engine which were split at the back.
Ford wanted £50 EACH! and they were Ford only parts. I got some radiator hose the same diameter (59mm?) which was about £9 from a local Hydraulics place, cut to size with a stanley, clamped on with jubilees and bobs your uncle.
NB shortly after the 90 degree bend further on in the line also split, so replaced that with a 90 degree silicone bend on ebay, which was about £12.
Unfortunately this has absolutely nothing to do with the OPs problem, you did not have the same issue as the OP (original poster)
You have a turbo car, the OPs is NA (naturally asperated/ non-turbo)
An NA engine will draw air into leaks, not blow it out like a turbo engine would
Apart from the fact that yours is a completely different engine, and is a diesel, not a petrol like the OPs
Hi, Just came across this topic.I have had a similar problem. 59 plate 1.6 Focus Zetec. Came to start car at work the other day all I got was clicking and instrument and indicator lights flashing in synch. Got a bump start and drove home usually 12 miles of fast roads but did a few extra to boost charge. Spare battery put on charge just in case. I tried to start the car about 2 hours later. All was well so ran it for a while to replace charge. Next morning same result just clicking and flashing. Quick battery change and off to work. This has been fine ever since. Old battery taken to work as we have a dept that can test them under load. My 43amp hr was only lasting 25min under load not 50 - 60 min as it should so scrapped it. While I was in the battery dept the chap mentioned a parasitic load test just to check the car. He thought the drain should not be more than 150 milli amp. I am getting around 300 milli amp.
I am getting 14.3 VDC from the alternator when its running and the battery is holding 12.3 VDC static so the charging circuit is fine.
Does any one know what the drain should be with the ignition off, interior lights off etc so that only the radio/clock/memory circuits etc are live. Hopefully the new battery will sort my problem but am curious none the less about the parasitic drain.
Due to the complex nature of the canbus system, the parasitic drain is not constant, and it may start off high (when you 1st switch the ignition off) then go lower after a set amount of time (irrispective of what is switched off/ on at the time)
The charging system is a smart-charge system so under certain circumstances it charges at a higher voltage than normal