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Member Since 30 Oct 2012
Offline Last Active Jan 27 2015 11:48 PM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Bad Fuel In Mk3 Mondeo 2.0 Tddi

27 January 2015 - 11:33 PM

the reason you did not get a spark is there was no potential difference between the two batteries when they are both fully charged - one would have to be flat(ter) than the other to get a spark  


If you change the fuel filter it can be difficult to restart the engine after that - filling the filter up with diesel halps, it can take some cranking to bleed the system, the battery can go flat by the time the engine is ready to start, short bursts of cranking are not effective in bleeding and very lomg bursts can burn out the starter- assuming it has additional electrical power as well as the cars battery (there is a knack to it)


replacing "service" items is ok (filters etc) but you really need to find out what is wrong, it can be a mistake to jump to conclusions  


a code OBD reader can help find faults and van pay for itself quickly - you will need an OBD1 one for a TDDI


TDDIs are Euro 3 so you can fit a solid EGR blanking plate with no problem (eliminating one source of potential problems)

In Topic: Tdci Exhaust Upgrade

22 December 2014 - 12:45 PM

On a diesel engine they only do a smoke (particulate) test, so you can decat ok and still pass this test (petrol engined cars are a different matter) 


But there is also a visual inspection, on some cars you cannot see the cat/ decat (due to undertrays/ engine covers etc) so a decat pipe can be fitted ok, on others, where the cat is more visible, it may be nessesary to remove the inside of the original cat, to decat the cat :lol:


as carbon can sit in/on the surfaces of the cat, it can actually increase smoke, so removing it can reduce smoke (along with things like a solid EGR plate)


As well as a dacat/ cat innard removal you may need to remove/ upgrade the exhaust back box, as this can be restrictive (it can restrict flow more than the cat) - so no point in just doing the cat without upgrading the back-box too

In Topic: Limp Mode

22 December 2014 - 11:53 AM

It looks like the turbo actuator - could be the VNT vanes sticking, as abave (causing a "knock on" effect)


A 2006 car TCDI should have an electronic actuator these can be expensive to fix (again, the VNT vanes should be cleaned/ working correctly before replacing the actuator)


the boost hoses may be leaking but also check all your fluids as it may be coming from elsewhere but looks like its from the hoses


where exactly is the leak?

In Topic: Got My Focus Remapped Today

22 December 2014 - 11:40 AM

After seeing the stain of soot below my exhaust after the forced DPF regeneration the tuner did today I decided I would give the car a good long drive and try clean it out to see if there was any truth in what he was saying.


After work I drove 70miles out the motorway in 3rd gear at 120km/h so the car was reving at slightly above 4000rpm. I also turned on the heater and the back window heater to try get the car as hot as possible.


After driving for about half an hour in 3rd gear I turned around and said I'd drive my car home normally now and see if there's any change.


To my surprise there seemed to be a big difference in performance. The car seemed more responsive and there was a far stronger pull when I accelerated harder. Could not get over the difference! :)


There is still a bit of turbo lag which I was hoping the map would sort but considering how the car was driving immediately after the remap there is a vast difference. The forced DPF regeneration and my 70 mile drive today must of cleared alot of the soot.


As South_Bound also stated, driving in normally you would not really notice much of a difference but if you accelerate hard it definitely has far more of a pull and a kick off the turbo.


Considering completely removing the DPF now as my next mod as I'm shocked at the difference it made today 

Its the DPF you need to heat up - not the inside of the car!   :lol:


Any performance increase may be due to the DPF unblocking rather than a the remap


Remaps can be done specifically to increase bottom end power, on some diesels the bottom end power/ torque is restricted to help put less strain on the DMF (dual mass flywheel) mant remappers simply increase the fuelling so the remap "follows" the original map and the "low down restriction" is still in place - a better/ more expensive remap is more sophisticated and can increase bottom end but you may need to strengthen the transmission to cope with the extrabottom end torque  


A tuning box often increases bottom end power/ torque more than a remap


A DPF delete can reduce turbo lag by allowing the turbine to spool up quicker - along with back box delete and decat can make a big difference , (as well as a free- flowing exhaust, as lenny has suggested)

In Topic: Got My Focus Remapped Today

22 December 2014 - 11:14 AM

Well, i got my 1.6 TDCI 110bhp remapped this morning.


Before the remap the guy doing it said it should bring the car up to around 140bhp so that sounded good to me. I also told him that in particular I wanted more low end torque for easier driving.


I got a call then after an hour and a half to say the remap was done so I went to collect the car. The fella told me that he probably didn't get it up as much as he hoped to because the DPF was quite clogged and the egr valve needed a bit of cleaning. He did a forced DPF regeneration to try clear some of the soot and I could see a mark on the ground bellow the exhaust from all of this soot. He advised me to clean the egr valve and possible down the line remove the dpf.


He also told me that I might not feel the full difference immediately but over the next week of regular driving it should become a bit faster.


On the drive home to be honest I really didn't notice much of a difference at all. There's possibly a bit more of boost mid range, but no difference low range and doesn't feel like 140bhp. I've read people saying remapping has completely transformed how their car drives but I can't say the same, definately doesn't feel like €275 worth of a difference anyway. He said that two faults came up on his diagnostics for the DPF and the EGR but I didn't get any warning lights on my dash. I also told him I blanked my EGR last week so maybe that's why and he recommended I unblank it and clean it out as the turbo needs some of the gas recirclant for better boost.


I'm wondering firstly is their any truth in the fact that it could take over a week to feel the full extent of the remap?


And also if the dpf has a bit of a build up could that sap alot of the power I had hoped to gain from the remap?


Feeling a bit dissapointed at the moment :(


That is complete and utter garbage - EGR valves reduce power/ cause flat spots you dont get better boost from them, but worse boost,  the EGR valve reduces the energy going to the turbine (part of the turbo system) so fitting a solid EGR plate helps increase the energy going to the turbine, thus reducing lag/ turbo spoolup time and improving throttle response - as may forum members can confirm from actual practical experience


In general, total peak boost stays the same (with/ without EGR/ plate) as this is controlled by the actuator etc


Sounds like a complete sharlitan who has taking your money but does not know what he is talking about


If you have an underlying fault (like a blocked DPF) it can stop the engines power increasing with the remap, though