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Member Since 30 Oct 2012
Offline Last Active Today, 04:27 AM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: 2014 Upgrades

Today, 03:35 AM

   The budget (£118) Boss audio amp has a higher spec and better sound quality than the £350 infinity - t hat is because the Boss has a class AB output stage and the infinity is class D


Class AB has a better sound quality than class D


I dont think there is much you can do without changing components - what is the sub crossover frequency? the levels are meaningless - try changing the subwoofer crossover frequency, and phase - check the realative and absolute phase of all the speakers    


The vibes are just cheap speakers and not up to the quality of the focals - the system might sound better with the vibes  turned down


Listen to a pro studio setup or a high-end domestic hi-fi then listen to the same music i your car to set up the EQ - if you do this it might work better with different music/ tracks if you find youself changing the EQ for different music tracks all the time    



Passive crossovers are not as good as active ones - details are in my previous post(s) - if it was my setup i would ditch the passive x-overs   - i would be happy to suggest x-over frequencies  


Audio proccesors (the bit ten) are for shaping high-end systems - it would be the last thing you buy after you already had everything else - it cannot fix many deficienceis in the system - There is a saying "you can't polish a !Removed!" (i dont mean your system is a !Removed! - it means sometimes, any amout of  E-Qing, prossesors, graphics and fiddling cannot fix some things + it also makes things more complicated )


If you are (reasonably) happy with the system as it is why change it - you could spend 10x as much to get it 10% better - it just depends what you want    

In Topic: Aberdeen, Scotland

19 August 2014 - 04:29 PM

Was it blue? - going towards Inverness?  

In Topic: Any Bike Riders On Here?

19 August 2014 - 04:27 PM

I can't advice on that but I have done my cbt few months and it was rather simple good luck.

Isn't a super moto those tiny bikes?

Supermoto is a form of motorsport that uses bikes that are based on motocross bikes  but with road wheels, tyres brakes and road tuned suspension, generally, they are for competition use and not road legal 


Customizers copied the style and bike manufacturers copied the customizers to produce road legal, supermoto- style bikes


With a supermoto-style 125 you get a bike that looks big but has road tyres - the low-speed handling and agility is good, like round town - my personal opinion is a 125 is ok round town etc but underpowered on the open road, bikes are dangerous but underpowered ones are even more dangerous if you are at the mercy of the traffic etc - ive not been on a bike for years and when i see one on the road i feel its so exposed - i considered getting an old fireblade and doing it up but common sense (and self preservation) prevailed  


Do you have to have  a 125 / does it have to be restricted? or can you have a bigger bike like a 400?


minimoto are the little bikes

In Topic: Has Anyone Had The St250Rs Kit On Their Focus St

19 August 2014 - 01:27 PM

My old ST made a lot less torque running stage 3 than Superchips graph shows, power curve looked similar but down like 100Nm with the torque. But with the dyno lottery it gave 20 bhp difference on different dynos on consecutive weekends  :rolleyes: Sticking to wheel horsepower is a much better comparison - some dyno's run a coast-down to estimate transmission losses, others just apply an arbritary correction figure.


Generally as the gear ratios get higher and spread out further the car will feel like it's pulling for longer as it takes more time to reach peak rpms and you feel the boost for longer. ST's always tend to feel really punchy around 2500-4500 rpm, which is why power figures don't tell the whole story - you need to consider the torque curve too.


I always just found with Bluefin, Mountune and Dreamscience maps as well it was very difficult to get away quickly without losing traction, trying to get shifting in the wet and performance seemed to drop off sharply after that - the Collins maps feel very linear, progressive in comparison and tractable in comparison.

Are you sure the Collins map is more  linear, progressive compared to the other maps or is it more tractable because there is less power? (i have no bias- not sure about others :lol:  )


I would like to see some dyno graphs (taking into account the dynos are different., of course) 


Is the ST restricted in the lower gears anyway? (and some maps remove this restriction?)

In Topic: 2014 Upgrades

19 August 2014 - 01:08 PM

I had to read all that a few times but I think I got it all now. Great to be learning new things. From what I gather and want to achieve, there will be very little difference for a fairly big outlay on a new amp. I am looking at a SQ setup rather than an SPL as you might have gathered. So, I think I am reaching the limits of what can/need to be done for the current setup. Major thanks for writing all this down and explaining it in simple terms. Really appreciate it :)

At some point, if I get the itch and money, I will probably get the Audison Bit Ten just to see what's the fuss about because I keep seeing it being used in builds for Soundman Car Audio, which I am addicted watching these days!




Also, today, I spent a bit of time trying to tune the car to my liking as I thought there wasn't enough bass while driving. After about 1 hr of messing with knobs and using an rTA app, I was able to tweak it to my liking. That is until I get bored and decide to mess with it again :P

Yes, the db is the sound pressure level - so increasing the amp power from 64 to 128 only increases sound pressure level by  3db - not much in absolute terms but it may make a difference in realative terms (eg the extra db may help to drown out road noise) 


i found a budget "non premium brand" amp with a similar spec to the premium brand ones you listed (which are very good/ well chosen) -




it has 4 amps, all with 150w rms into 4 ohms, so would get the maximum out of your front speakers, you could use only 2 of the amps in passive mode, use the other 2 for something else (rear door speakers or extra shelf speakers) or configure the amp for active (the amp has built-in x-overs) using all 4 amps for the front speakers - this would optomise the front speakers


The specs on the amp is as good as the premium brands, imo, but at a lower price (perhaps you just pay for the name)


PS - the amp has class AB operation - less efficient than class D (class D is probably ok/ better for subs) but the sound quality is better - this is a high fidelity amp suitable for your high-end full-range speakers