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#388146 Tdci Intercooler Question

Posted by FOCA on 21 July 2014 - 04:56 AM

I find that petrol is good for cleaning the oil out of the inside of the intercooler, seems to work and does not seem to corrode the inside of the intercooler - can be left to evaporate too  


Although petrol and diesel breather catchtanks work on the same principal, diesel engines have a lot of crankcase pressure compared to petrol engines, the diameter of the engine breather outlet/ hose is often quite large on a diesel  


if you fit a breather catchtank designed for a petrol engine that has a smaller diameter than the breather on your diesel, it can restrict the airflow, this can increase the pressure inside the crankcase


For example, the inlets/ outlets on the catchtank Lenny suggested are only 12mm (tiny) the the breather outlets on a typical diesel are 25mm (a lot bigger)


Many breather catchtanks have 15mm outlets/ inlets (still way too small for a diesel)


the intakes/ outlets on the catchtank  must be at least as big as the breather hoses - makes them difficult to obtain for a diesel  


The trouble in using a filter on the breather (or a vented catchtank) is the fumes can find their way into the cabin, they can contain carbon monoxide (thats why the breather is fed back into the engine air intake) -


for a road car i recommend fitting a (filterless/ no vent to the outside) catchtank  with the outlet fed back into the intake (following the same route as before/ as stock)         

#387674 Supercharger Or Turbo?

Posted by FOCA on 19 July 2014 - 06:03 PM

My brother took me through the pro's and con's of each when he was helping a mate decide what package they were going for on a Hayabusa drag bike being built.


Supercharger - Boosts even at idle speeds so lot less lag, on the other hand this can also make starts harder to control as you're getting a lot of boost at lower revs

Mechanically driven which can make it difficult to incorporate into an engine not originally designed for this. Plus of course this introduces power losses taken up driving the supercharger through belts etc. More difficult to vary boost characteristics, typically achieved by physically changing pulley ratios.


Turbocharger - pretty much the opposite to the pro's and cons of the s/c - more lag low down, can be addressed with smaller turbo but then this sacrifices top end performance. no mechanical drag like on a s/c but of course you often need a lot of plumbing both exhaust and inlet to get the system installed. Lot easier to vary boost performance with software through boost controller etc. Also a lot more choice of kits available, while that doesn't always mean they're better (i.e. VHS vs betamax) it saves the pain and expense of being a guinea pig for a less well developed package.


Course for oem applications there will be more advanced systems & controls which eliminate some of the drawbacks/compromises and I've probably not covered everything.


Turbo won in the case of the Busa if you hadn't already guessed  ;) 

Agreed - but you have missed some important points out - the power requirements of the supercharger are high, the parasitic losses are significant enough to reduce the power output of the engine -


Working on a project and considering supercharging/ turbocharging, two appkications that were studied were the A series Vizard -tuned turbo and supercharged versions, and the g40 and g60 engines, on the turbocharged A-series, it produced significantly more top-end power than the supercharged version, on the g-60 the power loss of the supercharger was a significant 18HP (so everything being equal, 18hp  less than a turbo could produce)


so the turbo has more  power potential than a supercharger


top - fueller dragster still use supercharges, though, the instant response and lack of lag is a big advantage in drag racing, the massive slicks can take care of the torque at low revs and the gearing is optomised (often, they only use 2 gears) to take advantage of the wide power/ torque band - i would say turbocharging is best fore most applications/ people, and supercharging is a bit specialized, for certain applications


high-octane fuel or reducing the compression ratio may be required to prevent detonation, utherwise the boost may need to be reduced (which may make the whole exersize  pointless - as you would have the cost/ hassle but not the full benifits/ potential)

#387655 Boost Gauge.

Posted by FOCA on 19 July 2014 - 05:28 PM

Thanks. Took the best part of 5 hours just to get the hose in through the firewall. What a pain.
Just one thing the needle fluctuates a bit, any ideas on how to stop this ?


If the needle fluctuates at a low froquency (slowly) it is probably the gauge showing you how much boost is getting to the (inlet) manifold


If it is fluctuating or "fluttering" at a high frequency (quickly) or the needle "jumping about" it cold be the pick - up point is too close to the turbine (so you are seeing the changes of the boost being controlled which does not represent the actual boost that arrives at the (inlet) manifold),  or too close to the inlet manifold (so you see individual cylinder pressures/ pressure "waves" - you could change the position of the pick-up-point to the outlet of the intercooler, or fit an in-line fuel filter (for a petrol car/ lawnmower/ with fittings that fit the gauge pipe ) in-line with your gauge, its the extra volume that will take the "flutter" out,(giving you more of an "avarage" reading) not the filter element 


fuel filter for boost gauge -




#387650 Tdci Intercooler Question

Posted by FOCA on 19 July 2014 - 05:03 PM

Yeah that's right. I've been reading about flow. Happens to be in this months FAST FORD. I thought if I was to go bigger I would produce more lag and raise temperatures which I don't want. That's why I opted for a smaller one than other types. One because of funds would get me a higher branded one. Two i didn't fancy relocating the horn or disturb anything and cause more trouble. I know direnza isn't great but it does seem to be a good quality product. Even on other forums ie the mini forum some people have used them and think they are good. I know it may give me a slight increase but I'm not after huge amount. It's only a 1.6tdci so I can't go to far as injectors will max out at about 150ish is imagine. It's a 110. The Egr is blanked. I have a K&N 57s enclosed intake. So I thought the next thing in that line of fire is intercooler then remap with Dpf removal and exhaust. So I maybe pushing 140-150. Im doing this as I'm trying to make the car more reliable in the long run ie no Dpf changes and no egr so cleaner engine. And to get the best economy as I can. I do a lot of motoway. So more over taking power and the car will use less fuel cruising.

What do you think I can't think of much more you can do with it without getting the credit card out.

Ooo a question on the side of this. Oil in the intercooler. Now when I replaced my intake I thought is have a look in the intake and noticed a film of oil? Is this normal. It's not huge amounts and car doesn't smoke at all. I thought is ask that's all. When the cooler arrives it will get cleaned inside and out before install and I make take the intercooler pipes off to also clean them.

Nice one, with all the things you have already done, and your planned mods i think they are the best mods for getting the most out of the car without spending £££££££££££s (i think you have it spot -on, in my opinion)


if you plan to keep the car a while, and the Dual Mass Flywheel or clutch was to start "playing up" it may be worth changing it to a solid flywheel/SMF - you could upgrade your clutch to a heavier duty one (stronger, and with a higher clamping force, and with advanced/ upgraded materials like carbon fiber/ kevlar (this is what i have done on my Mondeo) or "fast road"/ "organic"- the upgraded SMF/ clutch may be no more expensive than an ordinary bog standard Ford one  


the film of oil is from the crankcase breather, it goes in in front of the turbo compressor (in between the airbox and turbo ) and

coats all the boost pipes all the way to the inlet manifold/ engine, it tends to condense/ build up in the intercooler, and the oily residue mixes with the carbon from the EGR valve in the inlet manifold, forming an oily sludge


a crankcase breather catchtank coul be fitted to stop/ reduce the oil from the breather, you will need to get a special diesel one as petrol ones might have too small a diameter fittings, which can restrict the breather airflow - im getting one specially made


Another thing worth considering is getting a watrrspray for your intercooler, recent tests have shown painting the lntercooler black cam help the performance, i have a theory that painting the front black, and leaving the back of the intercooler shiny/ silver will give the best results


edit - add link (black intercooler)



#386704 The St Top Speed

Posted by FOCA on 16 July 2014 - 07:47 PM

Some interesting observations/ facts about top speed and the Fiesta ST top speed -


"Car and driver" claims the top speed of the Fiesta ST is 137mph - it does not say if this is the manufacturers claIm or an actual measured top speed


Record breaking attempts/ speed runs are done one way, then the opposite way within a certain time to be valid, this is because even a small tailwind or slight incline can make a big difference to results, ideally, the car needs to be tested on the flat, with no wind


If the test is done on a dyno, there is no wind resistsnce, so on more sophisticated (chassis) dynos, this aerodynamic drag is taken into account, this is estimated (read guessed) so it is not accurate / can only be an estimate


At higher speeds the aerodynamic drag is significant/ very large, doubling the speed means quadrupling the drag, so to increase the speed from 70 to 140, requires 4 times the power, (not 2 times) - so a more powerful car/ tuning mapping a car does not often increase the top speed as much as you might think - the 1000hp veyron had to be increased to 1200hp just to increase the top speed by a surprisingly small amount.


The aerodynamic effeciency can be more important than power at very high speed - a very "slippery" 140mph bike can be faster than a 600hp "production" car


Gearing is important - if you are already hitting the rev limiter/ redlining flat out in top - any amount of extra power will not increase the speed (you could double the power, it won't make any difference to top speed if that is the case) it might reach that top speed quicker/ in a shorter distance - to increase the top speed the gearing would have to be raised -


Some 6-speed cars are faster in 5th than 6th, if they have an "overdrive" 6th gear


If you take the 10% over-reading (already mentioned), coupled with (even a small) dowhill incline, and a little bit of a tail wind, higher speeds than the car can actually do on the flat with no wind can be shown on the speedo


Wide tires and spoilers can slow the car down - taking the rear spoiler off increased the speed of the "fastest production saloon" an MG hatch (similar to the Fiesta) originally with a roof spoiler - wider tyres increase aerodynamic and mechanical drag, heavier wheels increase rotating mass - (tyre width/ size should match power output, a wider wheel/tyre can help grip off the line but slow the car down at higher speed - they must be chosen carefully) a ligher overall weight can increase acceleration and the top speed attained


So fitting wider tyres, bigger (heavier) brakes can slow the car down in higher gear acceleration and top speed


9 times out of 10, on the road and even on the track, the top speed of a car/ bike does not matter, acceleration/ (like 0-60mph or 30 to 70) lap times or 1/4 mile times or how quickly the car gets up to high speed is a lot more important in the real world


All references to high speed obviosly mean safely off road - i am not encouraging speeding


#386316 Need Some Professional Advice!

Posted by FOCA on 15 July 2014 - 11:43 PM

In my opinion, i would not bother with a hybrid turbo, and stick with the stock one, on your car


you could upgrade the exhaust with a cat/ DPF delete, and a 2-1/2" system - it would be simpler easier  to do and is more likely to get improved results (almost definately better results)


the turbine housing is part of the exhaust maniflold, so there is no easy way of changing the turbine,(unless you have a custom manifold fabricated- ££££s/ serious modding) this leaves the compessor -


if the compressor is upgraded without the turbine, it can produce a mismatch, often, a massive compressor wheel and housing is added, this has to be driven by the small turbine, the extra mass of the wheel means it takes longer to spin up, if you are lucky the extra gas flow compensates for this, and it produces similar results as the stock compressor, if yiu are unlocky the additional lag (or raised boost threshold) puts a big "hole" in the power/ toruue curve 


That might be ok if it raises the top-end power, but a regular diesel revs so low that you are liable to just cut some of the bottom-end - so hybrid turbos are often best left to high-revving petrol engined cars and very heavily modified , high revving diesels


the turbine really has to be matched to the car, with careful selction one could be chosen for just a little bit more gas-flow at the top-end (without adding too much lag at the bottom) - but then you are talking a realatively small improvement for a considerable cost - as progressively bigger compressors are chosen the lag increases


so it can end up being a lot of hassle/ money spent with little improvement, or a lot of lag/ loss of bottom end power


Im not saying, with the correctly selected turbine, and fitted/ set up by experts it could not be really exellent, but for most people sticking with the stock turbo is the best way to go - especially as you may find to get the best out of it yiou start needing injector, clutch/ trans (the DMF would probably have to go too) - i had to get a carbon-fiber/ kevlar heavy-duty  clutch SMF to handle the extra torque - you might find you get "carried away" with the project - check out my build thread in my profile


After having advised you not to go for the hybrid- i would love to see a balls-out (proper fast) mk2 Focus 2.0TDCI ST replica , or a sleeper     

#385681 Strange Whistle Sound??

Posted by FOCA on 14 July 2014 - 02:41 AM

Reminds me of a Lotus that had really bad buffeting wind noise untill you put the headlights on (it had pop-up headlights)

#385556 Strange Whistle Sound??

Posted by FOCA on 13 July 2014 - 06:06 PM

Mabee the engineers added that sound so you close your windows above 60mph! :lol:


Thing is it only happens in a certain set of circumstances, - above 60mph + windows open + vents not pointing to the flooring area + fan on 0 etc - lots of cars have things like that, or much worse


i wonder if it would go away if wind deflectors were fitted? 

#385313 Anyone Removed The Resonator From Airbox Feed?

Posted by FOCA on 12 July 2014 - 03:37 PM

So you can say hoe on this forum but not g@y? That is hilarious...

FOCA what's your take on replacing the resonator with a straight pipe (plastic/silicone etc) on a tdci rather than the muffled original

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Ford OC mobile app


Ideally you need to take the car to a dyno and do A/B comparison runs (stock vs straight pipe)


a cheaper alternative is to do timed acceleration runs (safely offroad, of course) in identical conditions- same bit of tarmac, same weater conditions, weight in the car etc like 30-70mph, or tickover to redline in one gear,   to see if there is an improvement, and attempt to take human error/ bias out of it, a video may work better than a stopwatch


I have found that smoothing out the inside of the airbox helps      

#385286 Mk2 Focus Rs Intercooler To Fit Into A Tdci

Posted by FOCA on 12 July 2014 - 02:06 PM

It can be made to fit but there may be no technical advantage, in fact you may actually reduce power/ increase lag  


As this is a non-technical forum, the reasons are outside the scope of the forum, but here is a brief simplified  rundown of intercooler basics/ choosing an intercooler  and the difference between petrol / diesil applications


1 - a petrol Focus RS mk2 intercooler is not nessisarily better than the one already fitted to your diesel car    


2 - If your original intercooler has a specific inlet/ outlet size (say 2-1/4" / 57mm) if you go down in size (say to 50mm) this can "choke" the airflow, restricting revs & power, if you go up in size, (say to 2-1/2" 63mm) by using an adaptor, this can cause a sudden loss of velocity in the airstream, causing turbulence, the hose design may have to be modified, if you increase the pipe/ hose diameter it can increase volume,  reduce airstream (gas flow) velocity, potentially  reducing pick-up from lower revs and increasing latency/ lag


3 - if you increase the size of the intercooler, the internal volume is liable to be bigger, the bigger the internal volume, the longer the intercooler takes to fill up with air, the longer it takes to fil up with air, the more lag you get


4 - if you fit a much larger intercooler, the front of it may not be in the direct, cooling airstream, and "hidden" or "masked" behind things, on Fords there is often a bumper bar running right through, if part of the intercooler is sitting behind the bumper, it is not in the airstream, and as it is right in front of the radiator, can suffer from increased heatsoak - some aftermarket intercoolersare are  fitted like this  (eg- Airtech on a ST-TDCI) 


5 - now it gets a bit more technical -  A larger intercooler has a larger mass of metal, and more thermal inertia this means it takes longer to heat up (good) but longer to cool down (bad) a smaller intercooler ften has a lower thermal inertia so cools down quicker


6 - turbo petrol and diesel engines are different, a diesel tends to run a lot of boost for sustained periods (petrol turbo tend to run less boost for shorter periods) - so if you have a large intercooler with a high thermal inertia it might work better as the intercooler acts as a "heat sink" and then is allowed to cool down (due to the longer periods of low boost compared to a diesel) - so what works on a petrol turbo may not work on a diesel turbo


7 if a larger intercooler is stuck on a stock engine, it may not increase power, but it can increase lag and raise the boost threshhold, (so making the power band narrower, reducing effective power at low revs - a larger intercooler must be optimised with a map, or the boost pressure increased to take advantage of the better cooling capacity


8 - if a larger intercooler is fitted to a petrol engine, a little bit of lag/ latency does not matter, as long as it increases power (is optimised to increase power) in the midrange / top end, because a petrol engine revs a lot higher than a diesel engine, on a deisel engine that only revs to/ has peak power at 4k, (or 3.5k in some cases) you cannot afford to lose any bottom end power/ torque that you may loose by fitting a larger intercooler - that would make the power band narrower - making the car slower. - (reducing the bottom end power can give the illusion of more mid/top, but the car may actually be slower)      


9 - so the intercooler must be very carefully chosen for the application, get it wrong and you will raise the boost threshold  (), increase lag and reduce power, and make the effective power / torque band narrower - even well-known brands like Airtech can get it wrong, with large intercoolers designed for petrol turbos stuch on diesels, partly "masked" behind bumpers, and slower in-gear acceleration figures due to increased lag (ST-TDCI)


10 - a very large intercooler can add a significant weight to the extreeme front of the car - this can affect acceleration, especially on lower powered cars and handling on all cars, and if it increases lag as well....


11 - in a hot country, you may need a bigger intercooler than in a colder country, on a sprint/ hillclimb, a smaller intercooler for less lag, etc etc the intercooler is matched to the car, engine, state of tune, event and temperature, the stock intercooler may outperform a larger one in some situations, like on the road



i would recommend just leaving the original intercooler on, if you must fit another intercooler, fit one that fits in the space, (is not "masked"/ hidden behind bumpers etc, fit one that has the same size fittings / hoses, one that is not massively bigger than stock, and take expert advice from the likes of myself, and it is for those that have already done the remap, extensive exhaust mods etc, already                  

#385106 Awful Day, Advice Needed! (Turbo)

Posted by FOCA on 11 July 2014 - 10:33 PM

Yeah the patrolman took the engine cover off, poked around there then took a pipe off leading to the turbo had a look inside and said something sheered off?!

I was wondering whether I could get a turbo from a focus 2.0 tdci as my friend has one for breaking or whether it'd have to be the same engine size?

Reconditioned turbo from ford inc fitting and flushing of engine etc costs just over 1000 I've been told, wasn't expecting that much!

Sent from my iPhone using Ford OC

The pipe he took off was the turbo intake, the bit that sheared off was the compressor wheel, and /or the shaft, you can replace the cartridge (compressor&turbine wheel, shaft/ bearing housing in one bulit-up unit, usually refurbished



It is possible the turbo broke up due to over-revving (the turbo) due to a fault in the boost control system(s) - best to check this or you may break the next turbo, too (though it could also be due to old/ contaminated oil, oil starvation, lubrication failure, neglect or abuse, etc etc 

#383740 What Did You Think? Car Sos On Tv Tonight?

Posted by FOCA on 08 July 2014 - 07:55 PM

Yes - a lot of these programmes are "dumbed down" for the general public because the producers think if it gets too technical we won't understand it

#382762 Mondeo 115 Remap

Posted by FOCA on 06 July 2014 - 01:29 PM

I run a 2002 Mk3 Mondeo, it started life with 115PS and now has 160+ (at the last dyno run, its probably a lot more as its a lot quicker than it was then - it is estimated to be approaching 200Hp), it has the original "base" engine (internals), injectors, turbo, etc   the DMF was changed to an upgraded SMF/ cabon/ kevlar clutch, + some other parts like waterpump, aux belt upgraded


Since the DMF/ starter motor was replaced a few years ago the car has been very reliable, apart from when i kept blowing boost hoses off when i turned the adjustable boost up too much, and another time the fuel filter needed replacing  


A remap will tend to put a bit more stress on the DMF, and the injectors, but its not as much as you might think and also depends how hard the car is driven


The Superchips bluefin claims about 140Hp more than that would be an exaggeration, or unrealistic with just a remap ( more importantly, though another 42Nm of torque) this is what you can expect from a TDCI115ps, without other mods, the injectors, turbo and other things hold it back, it may have a basic, but reliable fixed-vane turbo (no VNT to coke up/ give trouble) - thats good - mine is a fixed vane


These cars have been known to last for 300+k, they were made between 200-2007, so the newest ones are 7 years old now, many were used as company cars, taxis,   don't hold your breath for a low milage one  


The 284 to 325Nm (Bluefin claim, analogous to what is achievable with other remaps with that car/ engine) will make a big difference


325Nm = approx 240ft-lbs - 240ft-lbs on a diesel is the equivelant of 240Hp in a petrol car at some speeds in certain gears (its just a theory/ opinion- but would explain why diesels are so realatively quick compared to petrol cars with so "little" comparitive power) especially in the midrange/ rollons etc (its difficult to compare petrol vs diesel and the old "bhp" is getting a bit meaningless these days with high- torque diesels)   

#382269 Loss Of Turbo After Stalling

Posted by FOCA on 04 July 2014 - 08:17 PM

Car goes in on Sunday and the garage will rectify all faults at their cost

sent using Ford OC mobile app

Good result! - let us know how you get on

#381557 Best Things To Do To Get Good Brakes

Posted by FOCA on 02 July 2014 - 11:30 PM

Ok guys after jumping out of the golf gti into the metal the only thing I really miss is the stopping power I can understand that bigger disks/calipers will be better at stopping so I'm putting it simple

What is the best disks and pads I can buy to maximize the standard calipers power and is it worth getting braided brake lines as well ?

Often the car is a LHD conversion, with the master cylinder on the passenger side and levers and bars to the pedal, if this is the case, it can be difficult to get a really positive pedal feel, as the bars/ levers twist and have some "give",


On previous cars with poor brakes, i spent fortunes on braided hose (like Goodrige) different pads/ discs, and re-bled the system to no avail -


often i found the stock (genuine) discs/ pads worked better than "performance" ones,


The braided hose only improves things if there is a problem in this area - like the old hoses are done - mostly, its for cosmetics


And the braking system is like any other system - its the weakest link that holds it back - if the limitation is the discs, no point in changing the master cylinder , often, its a question of finding what the weakest link is