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FOCA

Member Since 30 Oct 2012
Offline Last Active Today, 01:23 AM
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#415156 Air Intake Pipe Advice!!!

Posted by FOCA on Yesterday, 09:02 PM

 

 

I had this issue recently, when I put my foot to the floor there was no bite, and a large fizzing sound. (i now know that this is air)

The air was escaping from the two rubber air intakes at the front of the engine which were split at the back. 

 

Ford wanted £50 EACH! and they were Ford only parts. I got some radiator hose the same diameter (59mm?) which was about £9 from a local Hydraulics place, cut to size with a stanley, clamped on with jubilees and bobs your uncle. 

 

NB shortly after the 90 degree bend further on in the line also split, so replaced that with a 90 degree silicone bend on ebay, which was about £12. 

Unfortunately this has absolutely nothing to do with the OPs problem, you did not have the same issue as the OP (original poster)  

 

You have a turbo car, the OPs is NA (naturally asperated/ non-turbo)  

 

An NA engine will draw air into leaks, not blow it out like a turbo engine would

 

Apart from the fact that yours is a completely different engine, and is a diesel, not a petrol like the OPs




#414296 Air Intake Pipe Advice!!!

Posted by FOCA on 28 September 2014 - 01:15 PM

The rotten egg smell is the cat (catalytic converter)

 

Dont assume its not the coil packs/plugs/ leads even if they were changed, if the coil packs were changed and then the engine run with old plugs or leads, or if the plug(s) gap was too wide, that could "take out" (damage) the coil packs

 

We have yet to confirm the nature of the fault, if the engine is missing badly (like it was running on 3 cylinders) or it is just a mid-range flat spot

 

Take the (spark) plugs out and examine the tips, do they all look the same? post a picture of them (the tips, looking into the "guts" of them)

 

when the engine is running rough, disconnect the leads in turn when the engine is ticking over, the engine note should change or the engine shouls stall, if nothing happens when you disconnect a lead, that may be the one that is not getting a spark

 

Fit new plugs (again) this time "gap" tnen down to 0.8mm, this way, the spark will occur where it should, at the gap, not elsewhere like the leads or even inside the coil packs

 

Some posters may be very knowlegable, with a great deal of experience in engines/ cars, others may be regurgitating stuff they read on google/ other forums, it can be hard for the layman to tell the difference, but it pays to pay attention to the advice that you get on the forum, even if its from a regular owner (not a mecacanic/ non technical) especially if they have owned the same car, as they may have invaluable advice

 

Its esay to get "carried away" looking for the fault - it may be something simple/ basic that you have overlooked

 

Hopefully you get it sorted out before replacing every component

 




#413797 Air Intake Pipe Advice!!!

Posted by FOCA on 26 September 2014 - 06:30 PM

You can get an F-super code reader tat can read live data -

 

http://www.youtube.c...h?v=vinG-VNs0DU




#413766 Help Identifying A Mondeo Model

Posted by FOCA on 26 September 2014 - 05:05 PM

The LX in the same color would not have color coded mirrors/ door handles, (they would be black) there would be no fog lights (just "blanks", like fake vents, in black) and would probably not have the same wheels

 

but you would have to be very observant to notice the difference (apart from the wheels - which i feel would be noticable )

 

if it had steel wheels (16") you could fit these -

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item4d17f74739

 

which are similar to the zetec alloys/ look like alloys on the car

 

 

the standard pre-facelift wheel trims look like this (no good/ look like trims)-  

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item3ce3dc0dac




#412300 My 1.8Tdci Egr Has Been Blanked Off!

Posted by FOCA on 22 September 2014 - 08:24 PM

And so far it has been a wonderful improvement, acceleration is consistent without the splutter.

 

I do have one concern however.

 

My water temp is much lower after the mod, it barley gets past 60 on the gauge, even after a motorway drive!

 

can this cause problems?

This could be caused by -

 

1 - A drop in the ambient temp (colder weather+ you are using the heater/ more)

 

2 - An increase in efficiency (with the solid EGR plate the engine may be more efficient, producing less heat for the same power/ you need to use less throttle for the same effect )

 

3 - on some engines, the EGR plate blocks the EGR cooler -

 

The EGR cooler cools the hot exhaust gases coming from the exhaust manifold before it gets to the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valve - the cooler has a secondary function, as it heats the engine coolant directly from the exhaust - this can help the engine warm up quicker (the exhaust tends to warm up quicker than the engine (block)) and put a bit more heat into the engine - on a mondeo diesel the EGR cooler is located between the thermostat bypass and the cabin heater (so it helps heat the passesnger compartment before the (main) thermostat opens)

 

The Blanking plate could be re-located so the exhaust gases still heat up the EGR cooler (so the ehgine heats up as quickly as before/ taking #1 and #2 into account)

 

And you will still have the benifits of the EGR blanking plate (less hesitation/ flat spots/ better throttle response, less smoke, inlet stays clean, engine is more reiliable)

 

edit - typo      




#411523 Mapping

Posted by FOCA on 20 September 2014 - 02:55 PM

Im dissapointed and surprized no-one has mentioned the Superchips Bluefin -

 

These are similar to ordinary remaps but have some advantages -

 

Superchips has been around scince 1977 - the longest running in the UK (so they did not just get a laptop/ mobile no./ remap they got online last year/ last week) - so they are liable to be still in business when you need them

 

They have a dedicated after sales/ technical team (that you can actually get a hold of - swiftly)- i have had direct experience with - they were very good/ helpful to me

 

They have a lot of Ford products and support Ford - not just the performance models but the more everyday models too

 

You can order your Buefin online, and it gets sent in the post, no need to drive 100/200/500 miles to get your car remapped, and the same again if you want it modified/ revised or there is a problem - Superchips can revise your map online (just by plugging the handset into your PC) - i had several revisions this way - all good if you live in the sticks/ overseas or have a busy job/ one with "anti-social" hours  

 

Once you buy your Bluefin, you can have your map revised, free-of-charge for 12 months (there is no extra fee)

 

Often, you can transfer your map, free-of-charge to another car, within 12-months  

 

If you put your car in to a main stealers, and they update the ECU, this can delete your map, if you left the Bluefin map on and this happens, Superchips can return their  remap to you (they keep a copy of it)  

 

You can load your remap on at any time, or return it to the original, yourself, in 5mins, i take the performance map off when it snows, or when putting the car in to get valeted/ the garage/ MOTd, or lending it to the wife (its too fast for her even without the Superchips remap)

 

The Bluefin handset also has a handy OBD code reader built-in

 

http://www.mybluefin...dci200psNEW.pdf




#410519 Egr Blanking Plate Already Fitted?

Posted by FOCA on 17 September 2014 - 01:48 AM

Did you see the middle of the plate?/ was it solid?  - it could just be a thin, steel  gasket

 

Who knows - one of out members was at Ford and the head mechanic recommended fitting a blanking plate  




#410105 Joke Thread

Posted by FOCA on 15 September 2014 - 10:14 PM

A topical one -

 

 

 

There is only 25-100 years of oil left in the north sea

 

But England only has 5 days worth left!   :lol:




#410050 Mighty Car Mods Black Intercooler Counterargument

Posted by FOCA on 15 September 2014 - 08:48 PM

Both MCM and the youtube reply have errors (and make assumtions)

 

The MCM test is done without being fitted to a car, and not done in "real life" conditions (eg- like with the heat from the engine bay/ radiator, etc, or the  heat from a real turbo etc) - so it does not take important factors into account (its a very simple test)  

 

A regular intercooler on a road car does not have a fan, the radiator fan only comes on at high temperatures, so if the intercooler has no air running through it (when the car is static or moving at very low speed) the black painted intercooler will radiate more efficiently

 

BUT, a black painted intercooler will absorb more heat (heatsoak) from the radiator (because it works both ways)  

 

so the best thing is to have the FRONT of the intercooler painted black, and the back shiny silver - so it radiates heat better when the car is static, but reflects heat off the intercooler from the cars radiator and the underbonnet heat

 

The black front/ silver rear is my idea

 

You could also put extra fans in-between the intercooler and radiator, and move them apart (not my idea- ive seen it on race cars) this would make the airflow through the intercooler and put a phisical (insulating) barrior between the radiator/ intercooler  

 

You could also fit a waterspray to the outside of the intercooler (seen it on a EVO on TOP GEAR years ago- originally used in racing/ rallying) - ive got one on my Mondeo - it really works - (its to do with the latent heat of evaporation and the (exellent heat)absorbency of water ) 

 

The MCM test showed a sight decrease

in efficiency when air was flowing through the radiator (probably due to the insulation effect of the paint) but the effect was only slight,  and as the increase when there was no airflow (when  car was stationary/ not fitted with an intercooler fan) was a significant improvement  

 

A drag racing car has to wait on the line, a race car has to as well, and a road car is often stationary in traffic etc - so its worth painting your intercooler black (or the front of it) if you dont have intercooler fan(s)  




#409344 Rattle Noise On Acceleration.

Posted by FOCA on 13 September 2014 - 07:42 PM

It may be the DMF or it could be an exhaust heat shield  




#409312 K&n Panel Air Filter

Posted by FOCA on 13 September 2014 - 07:01 PM

Ive done a lot of research on this - ti took a lot of time/ effort to wade throgh all the BS

 

It depends on the car -

 

On some it made no difference at all

 

On some (NA) no difference in power but a slight increase in throttle response

 

On some (NA) there was a slight increase in power at very high revs (typically 1-3Hp)

 

On some turbo engines,lag is reduced a bit from low revs and throttle response improved, but no or very slight increase in power - this is typical (what you might expect) from most turbo-diesels

 

On some cars/ engines new stock/ K&N (or any other make) or no filter at all makes no difference, this is because other parts of the intake/ inducion system are more restrictive than the filter element  

 

In general you can expect no difference or only a slight difference in power compared to a fresh stock filter - typical independant measured gains are 1-2Hp, you need 10% for a noticable difference in power, though you might notice better throttle response/ reduced lag - or more noise

 

Often, a "sports" replacement filter replaces a dirty, clogged stock filter so the noticed improvement is due to that - like for like / new for new is a fair comparison

 

K&Ns are oild cotton filters (like green cotton) they allow small dust particles in when they are new (which can cause bore wear), and need to build up a layer of dust to start filtering properly - stock filters filter out small dust particles, straight from new

 

a stock filter does not last as long as a K&N (or similar) but a stock patterrn filter costs £5 and a K&N £30 - 6 times as much

 

I run a stock (paper) filter on my car - (369Nm - independant dyno stock is 209ft-lbs, off the top of my head) - i need to because the CAIS goes into the wing and i tend to pick up road dust from the wheel - the paper filter filters this out and the K&N would not - a K&N would ruin the engine - if i re-located the intake i might consider it, though - who knows - i might need that extra 2Hp

 

Better get yourself a remap - 9-times out of 10 will make a bigger difference and is probably more cost-effective/ "bang-per-buck"       




#409293 More Power

Posted by FOCA on 13 September 2014 - 06:24 PM

Hey peeps,

I have a new shape ford focus 1.6 petrol titanium. Is there any way to get more power out of it with out doing and drastic changes to engine?

Cheers

Chris


Sent from my iPhone using Ford OC mobile app

No




#409146 My Ford Focus Mk2 Tdci

Posted by FOCA on 13 September 2014 - 01:18 AM

Finally got a engine cover at long last, now what olor should it go hmm, also something i decided to try out, and the new dials which im going to have to go ford to code them

Your open cone filter will lose power,  as it draws warm/ hot underbonnet air 

 

your diesel has a sealed, unvented bonnet, and the engine bay gets hot, a cone filter may be ok with a vented bonnet and a cool air feed (even with that its usually not as effective as a proper encapsulated CAIS or even the stock air intake) 

 

its why panel filters are recommended above cone filters, in this day and age

 

Cooler air = higher density = more oxegen per cc = more power / warmer air = lower density = less oxegen per cc = less power

 

Its the reason for intercoolers and cool air intakes  

 

Raplacing the K&N with a stock airbox should increase power (engine should pull better, right through the range)  




#408646 Engine Swap Diesel To Petrol

Posted by FOCA on 11 September 2014 - 05:58 PM

Ive had someone tell me that changing the turbo and diesel pump off a mondeo ST would gove me a substantial increase in power but how easy would it be


Sent from my iPhone using Ford OC

Who told you that? was it a mate of kermit and miss piggy :lol:

 

I wont even bother explaining (the several reasons) how that won't work

 

My advice -  get the car serviced, get your Bluefin remap get a panel filter, possibly some exhaust upgrades - there are other things you can do, but they are not going to make a lot of difference and/ or get expensive or require skill/ experience  

 

 

Here are some -

 

Decat

 

heatwrapping the decat/ downpipe

 

gas-flowing the downpipe

 

back-box delete

 

larger diameter exhaust with straight-through silencer

 

resonator bypass

 

gas-flow the airbox

 

fit/ build a large diameter CAIS

 

larger FMIC (that fits the boost hoses/ fits the space) with waterspray

 

larger diameter boost hoses

 

shorter boost hoses/ redesign

 

EGR delete

 

replace the inefficient (soaks up power) waterpump with an electric one

 

lighten the car - fit the lightest wheels you can find, reduce weight / fit lighter parts eg battery etc

 

fit a solid flywheel carbon fibre/ kevlar clutch/ uprated (to handle the extra power/ torque )  

 

fit a short-shifter (or modify the original one)

 

remove the AC (wastes power, adds weight)

 

 

These are some of the things ive done on my car - some of these things make a big difference, some just small - but they add up  




#407960 Stopping Distances?

Posted by FOCA on 09 September 2014 - 10:39 PM

The surface temperature and conditions have a greater influence on stopping distances, along with the tyre condition, pressure, make and model  

 

Temperatue has a big effect - with many tyres, the grip is greatly reduced at under 7 degrees C

 

Road camber, condition of the road surface (eg, contaminated with oil, stones etc) or if the surface is bumpy, roundabouts can often get "polished" - the very grippy stuff they put on accident black spots/ some juctions is called "shellgrip"  

 

obvoiusly wet weather, slush or snow has a big effect in grip - but the best tyre for a hot sunny day may not be the best one for a cool, rainy autumn night - its a compromise

 

On a bumpy road worn shock absorbers can increase stopping distances

 

 

the bigger discs may reduce fade from high speeds (100+) but may not make any difference stopping from 30, they may even be detrimental, and imbalance the car (you might have to get the entire, all-round  ST setup)

 

A magazine tested a Motorcycle against a 911 turbo (years ago) and the 911 had half the stoppingn distances than those shown in the highway code - but as above - difficult to get consistant/ comparable  results when even temperature makes such a big difference, never mind road grippyness and other factors 

 

 A brand new set of the best "A" rated tyres will probably make a bigger difference than a brake upgrade, in my opinion - like goodyear eagle F1s