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Member Since 30 Oct 2012
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 05:56 AM

#437900 New Car For Next! What You Guys Thing?

Posted by FOCA on Yesterday, 05:33 AM

But - its not a Ford! :lol:


I always think VWs are as over-rated as much as Fords are under-estimated

#437653 Ecu Remap And Intercooler Map

Posted by FOCA on 18 December 2014 - 03:02 AM

When we are talking about decats we have to be careful not to get mixed up with petrol and diesel engines - 


Most diesel engines have a small, passive cat, there is no sensor, (no wires, no EML) the cat can be completely removed and the car can still easily pass the emmisions MOT test, as only particulates are measured on a diesel, diesel Ford owners have run decats for years, and passed several MOTs, no problem,  recently the rules have tighened up,  now there is to be a visual inspection, so it must look like there is a cat present, on many cars you cannot see if there is one or not, as there is an engine cover at the top, and an undertray on the bottom (the tester cannot remove covers) in this case as long as the (diesel) car can pass the particulates (smoke) test its ok - as carbon can build up on the surface of the cat, often a decat reduces smoke 


On cars where the cat is visible it can be cut open and the innards removed - many Ford owners have done this and passed the MOT no problem (as above, it may even help reduce smoke, especially in conjunction with a solid EGR plate )


in tests, it was found the back- box was more restictive than the cat (diesel mk3 mondeo 2.0 &2.2, other turbo-diesels are similar)


On a petrol engined car its a different matter the presence of a cat may be detected by the emissions - and it may be diffucult to get the car running right and the emissions low enough to pass an MOT - in this case a high flow sports cat is probably the best way to go for a modern, petrol-engined road car     

#437604 Differences Between 100Hp And 125Hp

Posted by FOCA on 17 December 2014 - 10:26 PM

The engines are phisically the same and the difference is in the factory engine map


it is possible to buy a 100PS version and have it remapped to about 135 - 140HP


the 100PS is good anyway

#437383 Bov Valve

Posted by FOCA on 17 December 2014 - 09:47 AM

Dump valves (another name for Blow Off Valves )  dont work on diesel engines, as there are no throttle butterflies on diesels - they just loose boost


If you most have the hiss sound when you change gear you can get fake ones that just make the noise - good news is you can switch them off!

#437350 Upgrade Fiesta Or Sell For Focus?

Posted by FOCA on 17 December 2014 - 06:56 AM

People change, move on / grow up - the Fiesta is fine for a single guy but not so practical for a couple with dogs etc owning a powerful Focus ST estate will (perhaps more than) help compensate for this and is probably the best way to go for you now


I would imagine you would miss the Fiesta but the Focus ST estate can be a lot of fun as well.

#437346 Flat Spot And Black Smoke

Posted by FOCA on 17 December 2014 - 06:20 AM

A split in a boost hose may not seem enough to cause serious problems, but -


if there is a leak in the pressurised side of the turbo/ inlet, (between the compressor outlet and the inlet manifold, including thye inlet manifold & gaskets, intercooler, sensors and hoses/ sensors etc connected to the boost hoses) - boost pressure will be lost/ reduced


its like when you are pumping up a tyre with a bad leak in it, no matter how hard you pump, you cannot reach or maintain the desired pressure - in the same way, the turbo/ ECU/ boost control system(s) try to reach the nessesary boost pressure, but because of the leak, this is not achieved - this can have the effect of the turbo being "on" the whole time, it can get hotter than normal, and it can spin faster than normal, in extreme cases, (turbo) components can fail from too many (turbo - the turbo compressor, turbine shaft / bearing revving too much - the engine may be at normal revs) revs and/ or or too much heat


Also, the engine runs on diesel, and air, it is the oxegen in the air that causes combustion, if there is a leak in a boost pipe there will not be enough air, so too much diesel or too rich - this is what causes the black smoke


at lower revs, downhill, under a light load the engine may run ok/ as normal, this is because the engine works like an NA (naturally asperated/ non turbo) in these conditions (before the turbo spools up) at heavier loads, (hard acceleration/ high speed uphill etc) the engine is "expecting" more air that does not come


this can "choke" the engine, stopping it from revving, the engine may also try to protect itself by limiting power/ revs or inducing "limp home"("limp" for short) mode - this is to allow you to "limp home" at lower power/ revs


its a "stich in time" thing, apart from the potential damage to the turbo core, the exessive soot can coke up DPFs, cats and VNT mechs, fuel economy can suffer (as well as performance, obviously)


Best to get the hose replaced ASAP Ford will charge you a fortune and it will probably be a rubber part, you could probably get a (better) silicone one cheaper - speak to Stoney, a forum member that runs a 1.8 Focus, i bet he will know the best place to get these hoses


Its worth investing in an OBD code reader this can save a lot of money in the long run, i would do the "service" items like air filter, fuel filter, + oil / filter change before buying replacement components you might not need


I recommend fitting a solid EGR blanking plate - car will run better with this


if you are used to the ST you might find yourself trying to rev the diesel too high - peak power is at about 4k - no point in revving it higher than that (once its sorted)


power curve




the 1.8 diesel (even when its working well) will feel very slow compared to the ST, the bluefin is realatively expensive at £323 but makes big difference to the power/ torque, and the way it drives, transforms the car/ makes driving less of a chore, in my opinion


#436340 'sticky' Power Steering When Cold

Posted by FOCA on 12 December 2014 - 11:54 PM

Is that the correct tyre pressure i thought it was around 34 front 31 rear?

off the top of my head it is 41 front and 35 rear (due to the weight of the engine) even at that, the front tyres can look underinflated/ soft


there are different pressures for "normal"  use (whatever that is) and heavily laden / high speed


I run (it took a long time to arrive at these pressures) 40 rear 39 front on 205/55/16s this is for better economy (its a hypermiling technique) and i like the feel of them like that,(makes it predictable on the limit) i corner hard and i dont like motorways, so the middle part of the tyre does not wear out 1st -  the ride is a bit harsher too at these pressures - it may not suit everyone   


PS - i dont recommend 41 PSI in the front for normal use/ for most people - but the mk3 diesel really needs 36 + psi in the front  in my opinion - i had a look around the net and many are recommending recommended + 3 PSI  

#436218 Need Some Modification Ideas

Posted by FOCA on 12 December 2014 - 02:58 PM

What other things could I do then other then fitting it with a turbo, don't really have the money to buy a st at moment so thought I would invest a bit into the one I have now

Sent from my iPhone using Ford OC

If you are really serious and want to get it  up to ST performance it might cost you more than you would pay for an older ST  to do that


A piper exhaust will cost you about £700 - this could be worth up to 9 HP a bluefin remap about £250 a K&N panel filter is only £30, but its only going to improve power 1 to 2 hp, if at all - so realistically you are talking about a grand to get the car from 100HP (or whatever it is) to 128 HP, obviously its is not going to be as quick as a 225PS ST225 or even a remapped fiesta ecoboost 1L (approx 140hp)


so by the time you spend the grand to take it to (approx) 128HP,then the extra insurance etc, and taking into account the money spent on mods you get no return on (often does not add value to the car, and can often devalue it)


A turbo kit would be a lot more money, and may require engine rebuilds to get it working properly (eg lower compression, stronger components etc) so to do this, could cost £££££££s


Making the car louder is a lot easier, though and you can get a little bit extra power without spending a fortune, its not going to be a "beast" though  


Here is the power curve for the bluefin -




£249 for 9HP not quite 10% (its recon-ed you need a 10% increase to notice a difference)


turbo kit -


http://www.oc-motors...E Engine Tuning


£ 3750,00 for 180Hp - would make a good sleeper but an ST225 has a lot more potential (eg a stock st225 with a £400 remap could make 260HP) and you could probably pick one up for that sort of money + the value of your present car      

#436135 Fiesta 1.0 Ecoboost Exhaust Swap

Posted by FOCA on 12 December 2014 - 06:47 AM

The 1.0L engine is a 3 cylinder, the noise that comes out of an exhaust comes from the engine, so a  3 cylinder engine will not sound like a 4 cylinder one, even if it has the same exhaust


An exhaust made for the 1.0 will probably work better than one for the 1.6, on a 1.0, even though it could be made to fit  


The good news, though is a 3 cylinder ecoboost can sound good, with the right mods, remap, (including bluefin) induction kit, sounds good and is quick too  

#436126 Need Some Modification Ideas

Posted by FOCA on 12 December 2014 - 05:11 AM

It is possible to do almost anything to your car -  but whether it is worthwhile or cost- effective is another matter


By the time you fit a turbo (if its practical on that engine) and all the other stuff you need/ want you would probably be cheaper and better to just buy an st225  

#433442 Engine Power Over The Years

Posted by FOCA on 02 December 2014 - 02:25 AM

What about the hybrid?

"The Mondeo Hybrid will use a 2.0-litre petrol engine and two electric motors – one to drive the wheels and another to recharge the battery. The lithium-ion batteries are anticipated to last for 10 years or 150,000 miles".

That seems a bit strange - using an electric motor to charge the batteries! What does the petrol engine do? However as I won't be clocking up the mileage I used to that may be a good option for relatively short journeys. I should be more economical. Don't know why, but I am not keen on diesel!

The electric motor turns electrical power into magnetic/ mechanical (turning) power, it can work in reverse, changing the turning power into magnetic then electrical power to charge the batteries (acting as a generator/ alternator, but usually more powerful) this is controlled by an ECU, normally when slowing down, on the over, run, coasting or going downhill, it is often known as regenerative braking


The petrol engine works like any normal car, but it works in conjunction with the electric engine (motor) often, the electric motor runs at lower speeds and as a certain speed is reached or if you accelerate hard the petrol engine starts automatically and then engages


On some high performance cars, the electric motor suppliments the petrol engine, eliminating turbo lag or loss of acceleration when changing gear - like an F1 car. The elecric motor can produce a lot of torque at very low revs and over a wide speed range, so often, unlike an internal combustion engine, a gearbox is not nesessary and these cars can have incredible acceleration/ response     



#433438 Remapping My Slow Focus!?!

Posted by FOCA on 02 December 2014 - 01:39 AM

What about the 11NM do I feel there a difference?

Sent from my iPhone using Ford OC

Nope, 10% would be 15Nm, also, the gain would have to be at peak power (which it probably isnt) 11Nm would not be noticed  


even if you noticed an extra 7Hp (which you wont) you would just be making a slow car a tiny little (unnoticable) bit less slower - but still a slow car - dont waste your time/money on it  - you could do things to make the car quicker, but you would have to spend a lot of money on it for very little improvement, that money would be better spent on a quicker car and/ or one with more tuning potential   


Ht leads and spark plugs make no (or next to no) difference in performance, but don't take my word for it, there is a company called NGK, you may have heard of them, this is what they say -



#432735 Remapping My Slow Focus!?!

Posted by FOCA on 29 November 2014 - 03:09 PM

Non- turbo petrol engined cars are not worth remapping - but turbo ones are


you need at least a 10% increase to notice any improvement in power - so 7hp would not even be noticed, so agreed - not worth it for £250


replacing injectors are expensive and not really a conventional tuning path


just buy a quicker car and/ or one with more tuning potential

#432681 Turbo Boost Gauge And Exhaust

Posted by FOCA on 29 November 2014 - 12:06 PM

A less restrictive exhaust will help the turbo spool up quicker and help the engine breathe better, the main restrictions are in the back-box, the DPF and the cat, a dual outlet adds weight and the Y , its probably not worth going over 2-1/2" - often 2-1/4" works better, and is lighter - the restriction of the turbine and manifold is usually sufficient for engine back-pressure,, the less restiction past the turbine the better, so the shorter, straighter the better (taking the previosly mentioned diameter into account) a dragster may have a very short pipe coming straight out of the turbine outlet, for example - much of this applies to both turbopetrol cars and turbo-diesel as well


Replacement panel filters are reconed to be better than open underbonnet cone filters as the cone filter can draw warm air, loosing power, , in some cases, the engine pulls a bit better before the turbo spools, and/ or the engine picks up better but the peak power is the same (turbo) and in others, there is a slight improvement at high revs (depends on the car/ engine) in the (rare, nowadays) cases where there is a power increase, it is typically 1 to 2 horepower, on most modern cars with filters with a large surface area, there is no difference, as the K&N panel filter may not add any more power at all if the filter element is not the most restrictive part of the induction system


unfortunately K&N filters do not filter as well as stock filters, allowing small particles of dust through that stock ones do not, strangely, once a layer of dust builds up on the K&N, it filters better, owners often notice an improvement as the filter the new filter replaces is old, and clogged, on avarage a K&N can cost 6 times what a stock pattern one costs (depends on car)


this is based on years of experience of tuning NA and turbo cars petrol and diesel, and much research, from an engineering/ knowlegeable perspective (there is a lot of BS/ misinformation on the web)


really your best bet is a remap (including bluefin) or a (high end) tuning box -, along with regular servicing, this will get a significant, noticable power/ torque gain (bluefin claim 176hp) a DPF delete and straight through rear box may see another 6-10 hp on top of that and with a K&N and solid EGR plate, might approach 190HP, not bad for that weight of car and with the torque, not really that far off an ST


Look at lennys build thread ,  or  you could just get a regular gauge pod or pillar pod and stick a diesel turbo gauge in it


If you want to make an ST rep better to keep the exhaust/ induction quiet, as it will just only sound like a tractor, and with a louder exhaust, a louder tractor, the diesel will never sound like a petrol ST -


If you want something that looks, goes and sounds like an ST, get an ST

#432648 Economy

Posted by FOCA on 29 November 2014 - 04:14 AM

The price of fuel goes up and has come down recently - so you should put how far you get on the amount of fuel not the cost - eg my dad used to go 100 miles on a tenner etc/ i pay 99p a litre for SVO  - etc etc others may pay £1.40 so how far you go on £25 is meaningless unless you pay the same amount for fuel/ the cost has not changed over time