Jump to content


FOCA

Member Since 30 Oct 2012
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 10:44 PM
*****

#353658 Ecoboost 1.0 Tuning Possibilities = More Powerrrr!!!!

Posted by FOCA on 14 April 2014 - 06:02 PM

Mine does something like that and I don't have bluefin installed, it's strange as you come off the throttle and the thing just accelerates again without any throttle Input!


Sent from my iPhone using Ford OC mobile app

Boost pumping - a problem with early turbo cars -some early  Audi turbos used to do this - there was so much lag the throttle did not seem to be connected to the engine and the car might "take off" just as you are lifting off the throttle

 

when you "boot" it it energises the turbo, if you lift completely off the throttle the ECU cuts the fuel, but if you are on part-throttle the energy/ boost is still "in the system" - its all about the engineers balancing, performance/ economy/ drivability/ lag etc  

 

Other cars were "all or nothing" and the throttle was like a switch - full throttle or no throttle with no in-between - thats what turbo cars used to be like and we had to adapt our driving style to suit   




#353653 Ecoboost 1.0 Tuning Possibilities = More Powerrrr!!!!

Posted by FOCA on 14 April 2014 - 05:52 PM

That's the spirit, now get it up on 3 wheels, like a boss!

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Ford OC mobile app

Nicely put!

 

You might be able to break traffic laws but you cant break the laws of phisics  

 

With a conventional diff a FWD car does not grip well with one of the front wheels off the ground - need to invest in an ATB (automatic torque biasing) diff to get the power down, traction control, ESP etc just cuts the power to the front wheel with the least grip and a regular diff with no TC/ ESP just spins - try putting 370+nm down with FWD, no TC / or anything + remember the gearbox acts like a torque multiplier in the lower gears

 

Thats it - fit a Bluefin and whinge and moan that you are getting more wheelspin - more power/ torque = more wheelspin

 

 




#353296 Mondeo 2.2 Tdci & 2.0 Tddi

Posted by FOCA on 13 April 2014 - 04:14 PM

Thanks. I don't mind removing the inlet manifold. What seals it, gaskets or seals? I will order whatever is needed and get onto it next week. What shall I use to clean it? We have a hot wash at work that runs at about 60c so should be okay on a plastic manifold, or do I clean it manualy?
The intercooler, how do I clean it internally?
The EGR is at the rear and has no MAF. I understand I have a fixed vain on this car. There is an actuator with a rod above the turbo. What does this do? I had the missus rev it yesterday whilst I was looking at it and it done nothing.

Your advice is very much appreciated.

Cleaning the inlet manifold is a messy job, i spent hours on one with brushes, de-greaser, i even put small stones (like the ones in fish tanks) and squeezey etc, i only got it partly-clean

 

I handed it to a valeter that used an (large industrial) steam-jetwash on it, it came back immaculate, the type of plastic used does not melt under the bonnet, so is probably safe to 110+ degrees C (at least) and high pressures

 

There is a lot of posts where people have changed the inlet rubbers, (they are made of some sort of synthetic rubber and moulded into the manifold) i have used mine again and again with no problems, this is probably because i don't torque them down too much (they need surprisingly little torque, due to the design) and i run a total-loss breather (so the oil/ oily residue from the breather does not "break down/ melt" the rubber)  

 

As a precaution, you could obtain the inlet rubbers before you took the inlet manifold off (there are 8 of them, 2 per piston, as there is 2 inlet tracts per piston with the 16v head)  

 

The intercooler gets filled with oil from the breather (it condenses in the intercooler) but not the EGR  so it does not get as bad as the manifold , de-greaser should do it, it can be taken off from taking the grille off/ without removing front bumper/ bodywork (its tight, though)

 

the fixed vane (its vane not vain, that means something else - ) turbo has an actuator (pnumatic) a rod and an (internal) wastegate, the engine has to be under load to produce boost, once max boost is reached (its about 16psi on a stock TDDI) the wastegate should open as that is how boost is controlled  

 

You get a lot of lag on a fixed-vane from low revs (strictly-speaking, its not lag but the boost-threshhold, but lag for simplicity)  

but it is easy to increase boost (bleed valve/ boost bottle/extended pipe/ boost controller) + the fixed vane is simpler/ more reliable (no VNT mech to coke up/ sieze)

 

There are a few cheap/ easy things to do to get some poke out of the TDDI, like a resonator bypass, but utimately, a Bluefin/ remap or tuning box has the biggest improvement  




#351393 St Oil Colour And Level

Posted by FOCA on 06 April 2014 - 03:51 PM

In my experience the oil may start clear or a light golden colour when 1st put in the engine, and over time it gets darker, untill eventually its fairly black, i think this is a "natural" process, and nothing to worry about

 

An older or harder driven cars' oil will probably go dark quicker than a newer one

 

The oil level should be measured with the car on a flat level surface (a slight hill/ tilt can give a false reading) when the engine is cold (running the car can change the oil level on many cars, as the oil is pumped into the galleries and it can take time to drain back to the sump, or for other reasons)

 

Ideally the oil level should never be above the "high" level on the dipstick, or below the "low" level, if the oil level is too high, it can cause exessive pressure in the crankcase, that can blow seals, the extra oil can take longer to warm up, and the smaller volume in the crankase (more oil = less air/ room to "breathe") can affect performance/ economy on some cars (on ome engine it was found an extra 4% more power by running the oil level on the bottom of te dipstick

 

The extra oil can also cost more money, and the oil consumption can be higher, on a modern car there is probably a "margin of error" and it is probably ok to run the oil level a little high,though, given the choice, i would have the oil level (starting off at) half-way-up the dipstick, especially on cars like the 1.6L focus TDCI with the PSA engine/ DPF, as the oil level can "creep up" causing problems (i know this does not apply to Fiesta ST drivers) 

 

The coolant level should also be between the high and low (max and min) marks, it goes up and down depending on engine temp, weater temp etc, (this is also normal- thats why its called an "expansion tank") if it ever drops below the "min" level, (again on a flat level surface) it should be topped up with the correct stuff    




#351183 Why Bikers Have A Bad Reputation

Posted by FOCA on 06 April 2014 - 02:28 AM

Yes the bike looks like it had a fairing that was ripped off in the crash, it has the brackets for a fairing and the air intakes going into the frame

 

The guy had completely the wrong line going into the bend, too close to the inside entering the bend, if he had the right line, he could probably  have cornered faster, and still made the bend safely on the correct side of the road, - inexperience / driving too fast for his level of skill/ experience

 

He knew he was running wide on the exit of the corner and sat the bike up and aimed for the far side of the car instead of attempting to make it round on his own side, / instead of potentially hitting the car, head or side on which obviously would have had much worse consequences, if he did not make it round, he chose a "safer" option (in a split-second)  which worked this time, as he walked away from it in one piece, which was very lucky   

 

http://en.wikipedia....iki/Racing_line   




#351162 Egr Valve

Posted by FOCA on 06 April 2014 - 12:00 AM

this mapper came offered by a friend who has had work done by him.....he re-fuses to touch my car, until problems have been fixed but i told him blanked egr saves inlets/turbo's.... his reply, turbo's run on cool oil which the egr valve seems to cool,(i thought this was the job of the oil cooler?) so hotter oil break's down quicker = sludge build up in turbo and feed pipe.... A... oil change more frequently = better engine maintenance :-) 

 

 

 

FOCA, why would my motor kick out blue smoke on start up, only in the morning once been sat... its like oil dripping through into the chambers......  will have to have another look on Saturday morning at the smoke, to see if there is any difference now oil has been changed... oh and oil level is/was under maximum, so there is not to much compression going on....

 

EXPONENTIAL....  tbh my mpg is fine ive had no worries with it dropping, you should get better mpg in theory... what map did you opt for?

The EGR does not cool anything   -  sounds dodgy to me,  as some of that is complete nonsense - again, get someone who knows what they are doing to work on your car     

 

There are lots of reasons why an engine would produce exessive smoke that blanking/ unblanking the EGR would have no effect on whatsoever - for example if you had a holed piston, worn bores or valve guides/ seals, or the turbo oil seal was gone - most likely your smoke is caused by leaking valves    




#349547 Egr Valve

Posted by FOCA on 31 March 2014 - 10:26 PM

Blanking the EGR will not cause the engine to overheat, the EGR operational zone is only at low revs at part throttle, (varies depending on engine) so on full throttle/ higher revs (when the engine produces more power/ more heat) the EGR is closed anyway

 

An operational EGR (unblanked) will contaminate the inlet (manifold etc) this has long- term detrimental effects on the engine, a blanked/ blocked/ deleted EGR keeps the inlet clean - this is better for the engine - it will last longer

 

I have run my car now for 9+ years with the EGR blanked/ deleted, it has the original pump, injectors, turbo, pistons, head, block, valves, crank, etc, etc it runs very cool (if anything, too cool) it has a radiator and cooling system, to cool the engine, diesel and air cools the pistons, it does not need an EGR for this  

 

I would not have anyone work on my car that does not properly understand what engines/ EGR valves, etc do - best to get someone who does know these things to work on your car  

 

For example, the head mechanic at a main Ford dealer recommended fitting a solid EGR blanking plate when a FOC member had trouble with their EGR valve   




#349534 Induction Kit Or Replacement K&n?

Posted by FOCA on 31 March 2014 - 10:06 PM

Mostly induction kits just make more noise, some double the induction noise which can give the illusion of more power, some reduce bottom end power which can give the illusion of more top-end power

 

Cheap or "universal" induction kits often reduce power, as the air is drawn from a hot place, a good induction kit should have a CAIS (cold/ cool air induction system)

 

On your car a performance air filter/ induction system will make very little difference to power, probably 1 - 2 hp at best, and probably only at higher revs, throttle responce may improve a little

 

Fitting a K&N panel filter may increase power a little, but that may be because the old filter is clogged up, a new "performance" filter should be compared to a new, stock filter (like-for-like not old with  new

 

If you own something like a remapped/ tuned Focus RS, something like a Mountune induction kit makes a difference in power, but mountune know what they are doing, and its a tuned RS, not a bog stock 1.6




#348648 Mis-Diagnosed Problem

Posted by FOCA on 29 March 2014 - 01:28 PM

silly,but have you checked your wheel bolts are tight?

An S-Max does not have wheel bolts, it has wheel nuts, that go onto studs that are fixed to the hubs, it may be a small point but it may be important   




#348646 Mis-Diagnosed Problem

Posted by FOCA on 29 March 2014 - 01:21 PM

When the discs are changed, the "run out" is supposed to be checked (that the discs are sitting square/ right on the hubs) and as the disc turns, the disc does not "wobble", it even has a tolerance, where a small amount is acceptable, and too much is not  




#341006 Long Term Effects Of Egr Blanking.....

Posted by FOCA on 10 March 2014 - 02:19 PM

Ok thank you for your intesting informations. So what i will remember , its the same story for a focus mk2 1.8 and 2.0L Blanking EGR is always a good thing with any engine. I was wondering because the 2L is a Peugeot engine , not ford engine.

Fitting a solid EGR blanking plate has advantages for any DIESEL engine, Ford PSA etc

 

With the advantages of the inlet staying clean, less smoke from the exhaust better performance/ economy, turbo spools faster, etc (turbodiesel), on any diesel engine   

 

Some can be fitted with no problem, on others, the engine management light may come on, some owners choose to run their cars with the solid plates anyway, and ignore it or reset the light with a code reader

 

There was talk about "limp home mode" being triggered due to a solid plate being fitted, but this was forum scaremongering,(when asked, nobody had this actually happen, they had "heard" about it on an online forum) a faulty (eg- sticking open) EGR valve would cause this, (or a plate with holes beong fitted on a car with a faulty EGR valve) a solid plate would prevent this, a solid plate "fixes" a leaking/ jammed EGR valve by effectively disabling the EGR valve/ system       




#340886 Best Way To Accelerate With A The Ecoboost 1.0 125Ps?

Posted by FOCA on 10 March 2014 - 02:02 AM

it also has half leather heated ricaro seats better brakes, steering, kit, wheels iv had my st on a rolling road and got 193bhp with no mods.
not just quicker but faaaar superior machine ;)

Yes - it is, but it also costs a lot more to buy, to run (including fuel) and to insure (some yonger drivers could probably not insure/ afford to insure it at all) - it can also attract a lot of attention (some of which may be unwanted) - the speed and power can get you into trouble, if you don't have a lot of self control     




#340885 Egr Blanked Off Or Not

Posted by FOCA on 10 March 2014 - 01:55 AM

I did mine 9 years ago - still going strong - Many people would rather have the benifits of the solid plate, even if the EML comes on (mine does'nt)




#340881 Ecoboost 1.0 Tuning Possibilities = More Powerrrr!!!!

Posted by FOCA on 10 March 2014 - 01:16 AM

I know I'm not right but it sounds like the turbo kicks in later than normal


Sent from my iPhone using Ford OC

 

 

Technically, the gearbox acts as a "torque multiplier" so there is more tractive effort in 1st, the torque as seen by the wheels from the crank is multiplied by the gearbox gear ratios

 

for example, if the output of the final drive is 2:1 in 1st, it doubles the torque, 3:1, it triples the torque if the exact (total) ratio is known, the multiplier factor could be worked out

 

Look at the torque curve - and where the maximum torque is -

 

http://www.mybluefin...25PS.060214.pdf

 

 

 

Dumbed down version for most forum users, with the (Superchips Bluefin) remap there is more power and torque, and more torque at lower revs, so the TC is more likely to kick in in 1st, even in the dry

 

So here is probably nothing wrong with the Bluefin remap, its just the TC kicking in at those revs

 

My advice is, if you/ anyone  can't handle the (consequences of the) extra power/ torque - don't get a (Superchips Bluefin) remap :lol:




#340393 Cat Removal Need Help

Posted by FOCA on 08 March 2014 - 10:28 PM

ok, so the bolts your struggling with, are they nut and bolts..in which case just cut them off and replace...if they are studs/nuts, depending if the studs go through the joint rather than being threaded in exhaust, easier if you can get them undone, but worse case, cut them, drill the studs out and replace with nut/bolts..

dont know the cat set up off the top of my head, but if your talking about the manifold/downpipe studs then pays to spend extra time getting them undone, as if they shear, can be a right pain getting them drilled out and rethreaded or replaced..

 I do, (Mk3 Mondeo expert) the cat has captive nuts, (nuts fixed/ welded onto the cat itself) the cat sits vertically and is held on with 4 bolts that go through a plate that is part of the exhaust manifold from the top - there is also a bracket underneath that also has 2 captive nuts+ bolts - the only other fixings are 2 bolts holding the downpipe flange on, the car will need to be raised up (little ramps or axle stands may be enough) to drop the cat/ exhaust down  - the threads on the bolts as they come out of the captive nuts underneath are the bits you should be appliing the wd-40  

 

Technically, a decat works better than a gutted cat, as the gasses don't need to expand with a decat + a S/H cat is worth more than a decat, (you could even make a profit) most decats have boltholes that you just use new nuts/ bolts on, that means if you are fitting a deacat you could shear, grind or drill your old bolts off, no problem  you don't need to touch the exhaust manifold nuts/ studs to get the decat off a mk3 diesel  

 

A little bird tells me that you can MOT a diesel car no problem (especially a mk3 as it has covers, top and bottom) with a decat even now - Me, i could not possibly comment on that one :)