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FOCA

Member Since 30 Oct 2012
Offline Last Active Dec 22 2014 01:01 PM
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#358858 Please Say Not The Turbo....

Posted by FOCA on 01 May 2014 - 10:36 AM

Thanks for getting back to me,was serviced very recently.reason i bought it was because it was an ex company car. Not sure if fuel fillet specifically was changed but stamped as full service if that means anything

Does it mean anything - not a lot because of the ridiculusly long service intervals - ive heard of cars going through 2 services and thousands of miles without  things like the air filter being changed - assume nothing - some people even mark the filters/ check the oil color to make sure they have been done -

 

on top of that there is "money saving" scams -

 

typical scams are changing the oil but leaving the oild oil filter in,(a favorite of the "fairly-speedy"-fit type places) cleaning an external filter instead of replacing it - the "one point" service-  filling the radiator up with tap water and stamping the book-  of course, your garage or a  main dealer would not do anything like that, would it :)    




#357389 Turbo Charger Loss Of Boost

Posted by FOCA on 27 April 2014 - 06:47 AM

Care needs to be taken with EGR blanking plates. Some engine ECU's will detect the lack of flow.

I believe some fords have a temperature sensor in the exhaust. If it doesn't detect a drop in exhaust temperature from the EGR working then you will get a fault. The EGR valve lets exhaust gasses back into the inlet manifold which cause a cooler burn and reduce the NOx emissions.

You can check a sticking VNT quite easily with a vacuum pump and a rule.

If you apply 0.350Bar vacuum to the actuator the actuator rod should move 9-11mm. On the Galaxy you can do it from under the car with it jacked up or on ramps.

Best thing for modern diesels is to have a small engine and thrash it. With EGR, VNT, and DPF its the only way to keep them clean.

Kind of defeats the idea of getting as much MPG as possible by careful driving.

The temprature drop is insignificant, only happens when the EGR is open (a very small percentage of the time) the temprature sensor in the exhaust (if fitted) is not for that reason and cannot detect small changes in the exhaust quickly enough  its only there to detect exessive EGTs (not to detect slight drops in the exhauet temp) - + the only reason temps drop when the EGR valve opens is because the oxegen going into the combustion chamber is reduced - less oxegen = less heat = less nox = less power

 

Effectively when the EGR valve is open it is cutting power and thats the only reason it reduces temps/ nox, you could say turning off the ignition does the same thing   

 

Overall the EGR often has a detrimental long term effect on the car/ enviroment/ MPG

 

I have 8+ years of research, development, and 1st hand/ hands on practical experience of EGR deletes/ plates etc - and there is a lot of BS floating about on the net about the subject - often spread by people that have never fitted an EGR plate




#356780 1999 Escort Van Project

Posted by FOCA on 25 April 2014 - 03:11 AM

Nice one! - exellent 1st car - i specially like the hole in the dash where the radio was - is that to save weight or an anti theft strategy? :lol:  




#356031 Lifetime Of A Turbo?

Posted by FOCA on 22 April 2014 - 10:04 PM

Will do, thanks Roger. All of us new focus/fiesta owners are like Guinea pigs with this new engine really

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Ford OC mobile app

Not really, before the engine design was released to the public it was run for 100,000s of miles in different conditions, real and simulated

 

As others have said, frequent oil/ filter changes (with the right/ quality oil/ filter) will help protect the engine/ turbo

 

sensibly running the engine in/ always warming the engine up before "booting" it helps lonngevity but, "pottering about" and labouring the engine is bad too, and a good "italion tune up" now and again is a good thing    

 

After a hard run, the oil is hot and it stays hot for a long time, letting the engine idle for a few minites (without revving the engine) is to allow the turbo to stop spinning, as well as to allow the oil to cool a little, it is when engine is switched off  if the turbo is still hot and spinning that problems can occur, as this turns off the oil feed to the turbo bearing as well - some cars were fitted with "turbo timers" that keep the engine running a few minites after the ignition key is removed (dont think they are road leagal, though) another solution is an electric oil pump (that continues to run after the engine is switched off)

 

Its not so much a problem with modern turbos as it was with older ones         




#355107 Streetka Brake Upgrades

Posted by FOCA on 19 April 2014 - 09:12 PM

The StreetKa has a relatively short wheelbase. Stronger brakes may cause the front wheels to lock up. Also there may be an issue with matching the larger brake disc diameter to the ABS. I would fit steel brake hoses for a firmer feel at the pedal.

The ABS will prevent the front brakes from locking up, as the ABS can cope with the brakes reducing their efficiency during their lifetime (as they wear out) it can also cope with stronger brakes (eg bigger discs/ better calipers)

 

Many people have fitted bigger discs/ better calipers with good results, - it can change the character / feel or the brakes, often for better/ sometimes for worse

 

For example some mk3 Mondeo owners have upgraded their stock 300mm front discs (and single-pot calipers) to Focus ST225 320mm discs/ twin opposed calipers and have reported that the initial "bite" is "softer" and their is a delay (or spungy-ness) when the brake pedal is pressed at 1st, compared to stock calipers - this may be due to the greater caliper / slave cylinder volume - but they have also reported better fade resistance/ stronger braking from high speed, and have got acustomed to the different feel of the upgraded brakes

 

Look at rally cars or eg- Ken Blocks' fiesta - that has serious/ massive brakes and is probably lighter than a Streetka -  (they were probably too small to begin with, anyway)  

 

 big brakes good - little ones bad  :lol:   




#353658 Ecoboost 1.0 Tuning Possibilities = More Powerrrr!!!!

Posted by FOCA on 14 April 2014 - 06:02 PM

Mine does something like that and I don't have bluefin installed, it's strange as you come off the throttle and the thing just accelerates again without any throttle Input!


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Boost pumping - a problem with early turbo cars -some early  Audi turbos used to do this - there was so much lag the throttle did not seem to be connected to the engine and the car might "take off" just as you are lifting off the throttle

 

when you "boot" it it energises the turbo, if you lift completely off the throttle the ECU cuts the fuel, but if you are on part-throttle the energy/ boost is still "in the system" - its all about the engineers balancing, performance/ economy/ drivability/ lag etc  

 

Other cars were "all or nothing" and the throttle was like a switch - full throttle or no throttle with no in-between - thats what turbo cars used to be like and we had to adapt our driving style to suit   




#353653 Ecoboost 1.0 Tuning Possibilities = More Powerrrr!!!!

Posted by FOCA on 14 April 2014 - 05:52 PM

That's the spirit, now get it up on 3 wheels, like a boss!

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Ford OC mobile app

Nicely put!

 

You might be able to break traffic laws but you cant break the laws of phisics  

 

With a conventional diff a FWD car does not grip well with one of the front wheels off the ground - need to invest in an ATB (automatic torque biasing) diff to get the power down, traction control, ESP etc just cuts the power to the front wheel with the least grip and a regular diff with no TC/ ESP just spins - try putting 370+nm down with FWD, no TC / or anything + remember the gearbox acts like a torque multiplier in the lower gears

 

Thats it - fit a Bluefin and whinge and moan that you are getting more wheelspin - more power/ torque = more wheelspin

 

 




#353296 Mondeo 2.2 Tdci & 2.0 Tddi

Posted by FOCA on 13 April 2014 - 04:14 PM

Thanks. I don't mind removing the inlet manifold. What seals it, gaskets or seals? I will order whatever is needed and get onto it next week. What shall I use to clean it? We have a hot wash at work that runs at about 60c so should be okay on a plastic manifold, or do I clean it manualy?
The intercooler, how do I clean it internally?
The EGR is at the rear and has no MAF. I understand I have a fixed vain on this car. There is an actuator with a rod above the turbo. What does this do? I had the missus rev it yesterday whilst I was looking at it and it done nothing.

Your advice is very much appreciated.

Cleaning the inlet manifold is a messy job, i spent hours on one with brushes, de-greaser, i even put small stones (like the ones in fish tanks) and squeezey etc, i only got it partly-clean

 

I handed it to a valeter that used an (large industrial) steam-jetwash on it, it came back immaculate, the type of plastic used does not melt under the bonnet, so is probably safe to 110+ degrees C (at least) and high pressures

 

There is a lot of posts where people have changed the inlet rubbers, (they are made of some sort of synthetic rubber and moulded into the manifold) i have used mine again and again with no problems, this is probably because i don't torque them down too much (they need surprisingly little torque, due to the design) and i run a total-loss breather (so the oil/ oily residue from the breather does not "break down/ melt" the rubber)  

 

As a precaution, you could obtain the inlet rubbers before you took the inlet manifold off (there are 8 of them, 2 per piston, as there is 2 inlet tracts per piston with the 16v head)  

 

The intercooler gets filled with oil from the breather (it condenses in the intercooler) but not the EGR  so it does not get as bad as the manifold , de-greaser should do it, it can be taken off from taking the grille off/ without removing front bumper/ bodywork (its tight, though)

 

the fixed vane (its vane not vain, that means something else - ) turbo has an actuator (pnumatic) a rod and an (internal) wastegate, the engine has to be under load to produce boost, once max boost is reached (its about 16psi on a stock TDDI) the wastegate should open as that is how boost is controlled  

 

You get a lot of lag on a fixed-vane from low revs (strictly-speaking, its not lag but the boost-threshhold, but lag for simplicity)  

but it is easy to increase boost (bleed valve/ boost bottle/extended pipe/ boost controller) + the fixed vane is simpler/ more reliable (no VNT mech to coke up/ sieze)

 

There are a few cheap/ easy things to do to get some poke out of the TDDI, like a resonator bypass, but utimately, a Bluefin/ remap or tuning box has the biggest improvement  




#351393 St Oil Colour And Level

Posted by FOCA on 06 April 2014 - 03:51 PM

In my experience the oil may start clear or a light golden colour when 1st put in the engine, and over time it gets darker, untill eventually its fairly black, i think this is a "natural" process, and nothing to worry about

 

An older or harder driven cars' oil will probably go dark quicker than a newer one

 

The oil level should be measured with the car on a flat level surface (a slight hill/ tilt can give a false reading) when the engine is cold (running the car can change the oil level on many cars, as the oil is pumped into the galleries and it can take time to drain back to the sump, or for other reasons)

 

Ideally the oil level should never be above the "high" level on the dipstick, or below the "low" level, if the oil level is too high, it can cause exessive pressure in the crankcase, that can blow seals, the extra oil can take longer to warm up, and the smaller volume in the crankase (more oil = less air/ room to "breathe") can affect performance/ economy on some cars (on ome engine it was found an extra 4% more power by running the oil level on the bottom of te dipstick

 

The extra oil can also cost more money, and the oil consumption can be higher, on a modern car there is probably a "margin of error" and it is probably ok to run the oil level a little high,though, given the choice, i would have the oil level (starting off at) half-way-up the dipstick, especially on cars like the 1.6L focus TDCI with the PSA engine/ DPF, as the oil level can "creep up" causing problems (i know this does not apply to Fiesta ST drivers) 

 

The coolant level should also be between the high and low (max and min) marks, it goes up and down depending on engine temp, weater temp etc, (this is also normal- thats why its called an "expansion tank") if it ever drops below the "min" level, (again on a flat level surface) it should be topped up with the correct stuff    




#351183 Why Bikers Have A Bad Reputation

Posted by FOCA on 06 April 2014 - 02:28 AM

Yes the bike looks like it had a fairing that was ripped off in the crash, it has the brackets for a fairing and the air intakes going into the frame

 

The guy had completely the wrong line going into the bend, too close to the inside entering the bend, if he had the right line, he could probably  have cornered faster, and still made the bend safely on the correct side of the road, - inexperience / driving too fast for his level of skill/ experience

 

He knew he was running wide on the exit of the corner and sat the bike up and aimed for the far side of the car instead of attempting to make it round on his own side, / instead of potentially hitting the car, head or side on which obviously would have had much worse consequences, if he did not make it round, he chose a "safer" option (in a split-second)  which worked this time, as he walked away from it in one piece, which was very lucky   

 

http://en.wikipedia....iki/Racing_line   




#351162 Egr Valve

Posted by FOCA on 06 April 2014 - 12:00 AM

this mapper came offered by a friend who has had work done by him.....he re-fuses to touch my car, until problems have been fixed but i told him blanked egr saves inlets/turbo's.... his reply, turbo's run on cool oil which the egr valve seems to cool,(i thought this was the job of the oil cooler?) so hotter oil break's down quicker = sludge build up in turbo and feed pipe.... A... oil change more frequently = better engine maintenance :-) 

 

 

 

FOCA, why would my motor kick out blue smoke on start up, only in the morning once been sat... its like oil dripping through into the chambers......  will have to have another look on Saturday morning at the smoke, to see if there is any difference now oil has been changed... oh and oil level is/was under maximum, so there is not to much compression going on....

 

EXPONENTIAL....  tbh my mpg is fine ive had no worries with it dropping, you should get better mpg in theory... what map did you opt for?

The EGR does not cool anything   -  sounds dodgy to me,  as some of that is complete nonsense - again, get someone who knows what they are doing to work on your car     

 

There are lots of reasons why an engine would produce exessive smoke that blanking/ unblanking the EGR would have no effect on whatsoever - for example if you had a holed piston, worn bores or valve guides/ seals, or the turbo oil seal was gone - most likely your smoke is caused by leaking valves    




#349547 Egr Valve

Posted by FOCA on 31 March 2014 - 10:26 PM

Blanking the EGR will not cause the engine to overheat, the EGR operational zone is only at low revs at part throttle, (varies depending on engine) so on full throttle/ higher revs (when the engine produces more power/ more heat) the EGR is closed anyway

 

An operational EGR (unblanked) will contaminate the inlet (manifold etc) this has long- term detrimental effects on the engine, a blanked/ blocked/ deleted EGR keeps the inlet clean - this is better for the engine - it will last longer

 

I have run my car now for 9+ years with the EGR blanked/ deleted, it has the original pump, injectors, turbo, pistons, head, block, valves, crank, etc, etc it runs very cool (if anything, too cool) it has a radiator and cooling system, to cool the engine, diesel and air cools the pistons, it does not need an EGR for this  

 

I would not have anyone work on my car that does not properly understand what engines/ EGR valves, etc do - best to get someone who does know these things to work on your car  

 

For example, the head mechanic at a main Ford dealer recommended fitting a solid EGR blanking plate when a FOC member had trouble with their EGR valve   




#349534 Induction Kit Or Replacement K&n?

Posted by FOCA on 31 March 2014 - 10:06 PM

Mostly induction kits just make more noise, some double the induction noise which can give the illusion of more power, some reduce bottom end power which can give the illusion of more top-end power

 

Cheap or "universal" induction kits often reduce power, as the air is drawn from a hot place, a good induction kit should have a CAIS (cold/ cool air induction system)

 

On your car a performance air filter/ induction system will make very little difference to power, probably 1 - 2 hp at best, and probably only at higher revs, throttle responce may improve a little

 

Fitting a K&N panel filter may increase power a little, but that may be because the old filter is clogged up, a new "performance" filter should be compared to a new, stock filter (like-for-like not old with  new

 

If you own something like a remapped/ tuned Focus RS, something like a Mountune induction kit makes a difference in power, but mountune know what they are doing, and its a tuned RS, not a bog stock 1.6




#348648 Mis-Diagnosed Problem

Posted by FOCA on 29 March 2014 - 01:28 PM

silly,but have you checked your wheel bolts are tight?

An S-Max does not have wheel bolts, it has wheel nuts, that go onto studs that are fixed to the hubs, it may be a small point but it may be important   




#348646 Mis-Diagnosed Problem

Posted by FOCA on 29 March 2014 - 01:21 PM

When the discs are changed, the "run out" is supposed to be checked (that the discs are sitting square/ right on the hubs) and as the disc turns, the disc does not "wobble", it even has a tolerance, where a small amount is acceptable, and too much is not