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Member Since 30 Oct 2012
Offline Last Active Nov 11 2014 01:45 PM

#340393 Cat Removal Need Help

Posted by FOCA on 08 March 2014 - 10:28 PM

ok, so the bolts your struggling with, are they nut and bolts..in which case just cut them off and replace...if they are studs/nuts, depending if the studs go through the joint rather than being threaded in exhaust, easier if you can get them undone, but worse case, cut them, drill the studs out and replace with nut/bolts..

dont know the cat set up off the top of my head, but if your talking about the manifold/downpipe studs then pays to spend extra time getting them undone, as if they shear, can be a right pain getting them drilled out and rethreaded or replaced..

 I do, (Mk3 Mondeo expert) the cat has captive nuts, (nuts fixed/ welded onto the cat itself) the cat sits vertically and is held on with 4 bolts that go through a plate that is part of the exhaust manifold from the top - there is also a bracket underneath that also has 2 captive nuts+ bolts - the only other fixings are 2 bolts holding the downpipe flange on, the car will need to be raised up (little ramps or axle stands may be enough) to drop the cat/ exhaust down  - the threads on the bolts as they come out of the captive nuts underneath are the bits you should be appliing the wd-40  


Technically, a decat works better than a gutted cat, as the gasses don't need to expand with a decat + a S/H cat is worth more than a decat, (you could even make a profit) most decats have boltholes that you just use new nuts/ bolts on, that means if you are fitting a deacat you could shear, grind or drill your old bolts off, no problem  you don't need to touch the exhaust manifold nuts/ studs to get the decat off a mk3 diesel  


A little bird tells me that you can MOT a diesel car no problem (especially a mk3 as it has covers, top and bottom) with a decat even now - Me, i could not possibly comment on that one :)

#339937 My Mondeo

Posted by FOCA on 07 March 2014 - 08:47 PM

UPDATE - ive been running with the boost controller disconnected, and the remap un-installed and the tuning box set at the standard setting it came with - still fairly quick compared to most cars but not quite its full potential  


I thought i had to re-position the pick-up point of the controller, but it turns out the (small diameter hose) pipe to the controller was porus/ leaking, so i was both loosing boost and it was giving the controller a false reading, so it tried to increase the boost untill it was too high - with a new silicone hose the boost controller works again


After test-driving the car  I set the boost on the 2nd stage to 20PSI (it runs about 16 stock) i then dis-connected the tuning box and re-installed the Bluefin remap, i took it for another spin and its really "flying" again, it feels even quicker than ever,  this is the 1st time i have had it all working right and with the short exhaust pipe, i get a pit of boost pumping, and overboost (i set it at 20PSI and it bosts to over 22) the boost comes in very strong/ quickly, its hard to keep up with the boost gauge, the power drlivery is very strong, almost "explosive" in the lower gears,


Looks like i will need to get it on the dyno again and re-time all the performance times as the old ones will be out of date, i might wait till i get some of the new parts fitted 1st


Im resetting the ECU for the latest setup

#337985 How Embarrassing. Focus Rolled Into A Transit

Posted by FOCA on 02 March 2014 - 06:20 PM

 If a Transit and Focus were to "mate" would they make baby KAs :lol:


Years ago, a (big estate) Volvo and a (classic) Mini were in an accident - one driver was a cook and the other a DJ, ironically both going to the same venue, the Volvo was completely written off/ totalled, (i think it ended up on its roof) the Mini was ok/ repairable (both drivers walked away ok/ no-one else involved).

Its amazing who can come worse off in an accident - don't think you are safe (or safer) because you are in a big car, 4x4 etc   

#337463 Obd 11 Tool

Posted by FOCA on 01 March 2014 - 04:06 AM

If you are fitting an EGR blanking plate make sure its a solid one - ones with holes are a wase of time

#337260 Mk3 Tdci 2.0 Power Drops Away Rapidly When Driving Hard...

Posted by FOCA on 28 February 2014 - 02:17 PM

Thanks so this F Super   / also here ?

Yes, the price has come down recently. Note Windows 8 drivers are not mentioned, only XP, Vista and 7,(on the Amazon one, can't see any mention of drivers on the other link) some may only come with XP drivers, i suppose you could get drivers online, i have a 2002 Mondeo (OBD1) i just use my Bluefin so i don't nood to mess about with laptops/ software etc, i keep it in the glove compartment but i might pick up an F-super at that price, as it has a bit more functionality than the Bluefin  

#337249 Mk3 Tdci 2.0 Power Drops Away Rapidly When Driving Hard...

Posted by FOCA on 28 February 2014 - 01:47 PM

Hi, thanks for your help so far. I've been doing some research on what code reader to get, but just getting confused (not difficult!).  Some people say ODB1 some say ODB2!


I have a 53 plate 2.0 TDCI Ghia X Mondeo. According to RAC Data check when I bought it.  99% sure its TDCI 130bhp. A post on another forum says :

"Mondeo 95/115hp TDDI/TDCI from 2000>2003 LX/GL/Ghia are not obd2
Mondeo 115/130hp TDDI/TDCI from 2002>2007 Ghia-X/Titanium Spec are as thay use a diffrent wire loom

there is a bit of a cross over between the cars but all made after 2003 should be obd2"

They could be wrong? So it looks like 2003 Ghia X might be ODB2? (It has leather seats and fake wooden steering wheel). I'm after something for as little as possible. Max budget £60. What do I want? Shall I take a photo of my connector (whereever that is?), I'm happy doing the PC/Windows side of things :)

Also see posts by stokesd3 here ?

Also its a 53 plate - first registered on 30th Jan 2004, so it might be one of the later models that is ODB2 compliant? I understand the newoer scanners are cheaper?

I'd rather take a punt on a £20 scanner before splashing out on a Ford Specific ODB1 ? Probably answered my own question!!

After 2004 All diesels sold in the UK had to be OBD2 (OBDII) compliant, before that it was a bit "hit and miss"  


The actual plug/ socket is the same, but an OBD2 compatible reader will not work on your car if it is OBD1 (even if it has the Ford protocols)


Dont worry about what is written on other forums/ websites, anybody can write anything - it does not mean it is correct


You can pick up a secondhand Bluefin handset on ebay that has had the (re)map used on it, for the early Ford Mondeo mk3 diesels (2000-2007) - it has all the Ford Protocols and is OBD1 compliant, the F-super also works on OBD1 and has the Ford protocols - it costs around £25  


Edit - The Bluefin model "BF-05 - FORD-T Ford Mondeo" has the Ford proticols, and is OBD1 and OBD2 compliant  

#335975 Performance Upgrade Ideas

Posted by FOCA on 24 February 2014 - 10:35 PM

Seriously, you would be wasting your time/ money, you colud spend a fair old bit of money and get practically no improvement (as Lenny has suggested) You would be far better off getting a quicker car or one with more tuning potential, it would probably be cheaper and better in the long run


Superchips do a remap for it, you have to take it to a Superchips dealer to do it (not Blufin/ mail order)


Superchips remap -




It costs £229 for a mere 9Hp, its not that Superchips is no good, but the engine has very limited tuning potential - you will barely notice thge extra 9Hp as it is not enough of a percentage increase to notice a significant difference


Fitting a panel filter (eg - K&N ) may increase power by 1 to 2hp at the top end, and increase throttle response a little (about £35 - i think its a bit more for a mk2 Focus) - considering you must inform your insurance and the premium may go up - definately not worth it


An open cone underbonnet cone filter will loose power and torque bot make a lot more noise - giving the illusion of power


same with a noisy exhaust -gives the illusion of power - a premium sports exhaust (stainless steel mandrel bent/ top make) migt increase power a little (by 5 to 10Hp)


 So after spending the good part of a grand you might coax 120Hp out of the car and it would cost more to insure than a more powerful car - a waste of time/ money  


Turbocharging would be expensive, a lot of hassle and the engine is a bit soft tio do this - again a quicker car would be more cost- effective/ better


Sorry to be a killjoy but thats how it is


Here is a link for AMD -




Their remap claims the same as Superchips (9Hp) but costs more (£299.95)


to get the full Miltek exhaust would cost (manifold, sports cat/ catback) £1123.37, or £1423.32  just for the exhaust and remap, there is no claimed performance/ Hp claims for the  exhaust


There is a pipercross filter advertised for about £35 it claims 3=5Hp but that is more than a bit "optimistic" for the 1.6 - zero to 2Hp is more realistic

#335736 Performance Upgrade Ideas

Posted by FOCA on 24 February 2014 - 04:37 PM

Buy a faster car? :lol:

#335557 Modification Projects/general Modification Discussions

Posted by FOCA on 24 February 2014 - 03:34 AM

I replaced my 16" alloys with 18" big mistake as you will be able to read from my post, any recommendations as to what would be the best size of wheels and tyres to get for looks an performance?

Sent from my iPhone using Ford OC

Looks and performance are 2 different things, often, you can have 1, or the other, but not both  

#334938 Dpf Removal The Truth

Posted by FOCA on 22 February 2014 - 01:11 AM

saw a snip in the paper today..

uk is facing £300million pound fine for failing to reduce city air pollution to required levels since 2010.


this is why they will now get tough



A DPF does not have a significant effect on nitrogen oxide emmisions - nitrogen oxide causes global warming and is what the UK is being fined by the EU for  


An article with some eye- opening faxts -



#331922 Quiz: How Much Do You Know About Fords?

Posted by FOCA on 12 February 2014 - 09:14 PM

I got 80% - i think anyone who got 20% should be throwm off the site and over 80 given a prize or something - like a golden anorak - just kidding! :lol:  

#331272 Burning Smell At Around 90Mph

Posted by FOCA on 11 February 2014 - 01:32 AM


Its funny, ive got the same problem, exept it happens above 130!


(safely off road of course) Just kidding, at lower speeds (under 80) it will be the tyres and the clutch, and at higher speeds the exhaust manifold, cat/ heatshields, the cat can smell quite strongly, it can get very hot when driven hard, when you are racing you get used to and recognise the different smells (eg the difference between burning clutch, brakes etc)


In normal driving a lot of these things stay fairly cool but if you drive harder they get a lot hotter, ive got an EGT(exhaust gas temperature) gauge - goes up to 1200 degrees! manifold/ cat can reack 700/800 degrees, it could be just dirt, mud water on the exhaust (depends on the smell)


Obvious answer is to keep you foot off the throttle and keep it below 70mph!

#330953 Mk3 Tdci 2.0 Power Drops Away Rapidly When Driving Hard...

Posted by FOCA on 09 February 2014 - 09:13 PM

Ifs def an 2003 model (no DPF) I'll post some pics soon as ...

We all know it does not have a DPF, a DPF on a mk3 Mondeo (2000-2007, 2.0L,2.2L, all power outputs,  trim levels) is as rare as hens' teeth, they have a passive cat     


Good news is it is a Euro3, so the EGR can be Blanked with no problems (solid, stainless plate)


It won't have an Elecrronic turbo actuator or the later type of electric EGR valve - its liable to have a pnumatic VNT, (i have seen fixed vane ones too, but rare) some early models have a rear EGR, and a different inlet manifold,  there are different injectors, the early Delphi ones can be a real pain (coding, etc)      


its Pre OBD11 standard, so you will need an OBD1 compatible code reader (with the Ford protocols) even a garage or main Ford dealer may not realise the compatability issues and may wonder why their fancy, expensive reader does not work (not surprising if you've been following car forums like this one, though!) - to my knowledge, only the F-super or the Bluefin handset is compatible

#330928 Here Is What Town Driving And Riding The Clutch Achieves..

Posted by FOCA on 09 February 2014 - 07:28 PM


#330737 Dpf De-Cat Pipe And Egr Delete

Posted by FOCA on 09 February 2014 - 12:50 AM

Your Mondeo does not have a DPF, just a small passive cat (no elecrical connections/ sensors) it can be removed without issues and replaced with a decat pipe


As far as the emmisions test is concerned, only the smoke is measured, the cat can be removed and the car can still pass the smoke test, it may actually help it pass, as the soot can build up on the surface of the cat


There is a visual inspection to determine if a cat is fitted, and one should be fitted, if one was fitted as standard, you cannot see if one is fitted or not from under the car, because of the undertray, there is a heatshield on top and an engine cover, and it is very difficult to see if one is fitted or not on top, the MOT inspector is not allowed to remove any covers


The decat helps the flow (scavenging) out of the turbo turbine, this helps it spool up quicker, improving throttle response and reducing lag


On a MK3 diesel, it is the exhaust back box that is the main restriction in the exhaust system, there is very little point in de-catting the car without replacing the back- box 1st, (the middle silencer, if fitted, is not that restrictive as it is a "straight through" type)


The rest of the exhaust is not bad, at 2-1/4" (approx 57mm) its big enough for the sort of power/ torque you are likely to get (mine is 160+Hp with the decat and straight-through back-box box otherwise stock, apart from the decat and downpipe being heatwrapped and the downpipe/ flexi is "gas flowed")


The decat and the back box delete can significantly increase the power, and work with other mods, the engne should rev quicker, with much better throttle response and less lag


It may need a remap tweak to make the most out of it  but will work without one, an ECU reset may help and costs nothing


An EGR delete can help inctease power a bit, but not as much as the exhaust would or the Remap did, so more of a subtle improvement but definately an improvement


You may be better off with the stock intercooler, an aftermarket cooler may just increase lag because of the increased internal volume, the stock cooler has 2-1/4" in/out - bigger than a Focus ST225(2") the stock cooler has a small mass so has a lo thermal inertia - this is good on a diesel, it is not "masked" by the bumper, many aftermarket intercoolers are, this is not good


On top of this, i have performance figures from a Mk3 with stock, bluefin only, bluefin/decat/massive artec intercooler, the bluefin only outperformed the one with the decat+intercooler, probably due to the additional lag the intercooler introduces


You can read my build thread for more tuning ideas