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Member Since 30 Oct 2012
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#290495 Audio Experts Please View, Lenny Requires Sound Advise

Posted by FOCA on 16 September 2013 - 04:39 AM

The kill switch is no problem, the audio could have its own, seperate fused power  so it could not overload/ or if there was a fault it would not affect the cars' wiring/ (that was not affected by the kill switch), the kill switch could be hidden anywhere between the battery and the engine bay


I found some lightweight racing batteries - they are l-ion (same as laptops and mobile phones), so are very light for their power, and are sealed / do not need a vent/ drain - i cant se any prices but i bet they are not cheap - it would save a lot of weight (about 8-10kgs on my car, not sure about yours) - would help offset the extra weight of the audio gear - mmm... tempting


linky -


#290390 Always Comes In Three's

Posted by FOCA on 15 September 2013 - 02:55 PM

Lol. lenny cant believe u have abandoned the focus. You should have bought a new focus  and started all over again :)

Yes, he could have started with a 2.0 TDCI, 170+HP with just a remap, a bit more work and you could make a sort of "st225- go-getter" but with twice the MPG - he could have taken all the nice bits off his car for it - looks like someone else is going to have to do that now (any takers?)     

#290268 Goodbye Sunday Drivers Hello Wednesday Gobs$%#@"

Posted by FOCA on 15 September 2013 - 04:49 AM

For the last and doccumented time Victoria
Its a !Removed! Diesel engine,
The redline at 4500Rpm
Yes you can redline the roundabout in 2nd gear
Sail around at 1500rpm in 3rd gear

And on some occasions you've gotta remind yourself you've got eibahs fitted with 7.5" wide tyres and take the roundabout in 3rd gear at 2600rpm :) show em who's boss
Obviously not with the kids in the back though.

Agreed - the diesel will pull 3rd nicely (mine does) saves changing down on the way in, and up on the way out, so saves wear and tear on the gearbox/ clutch and flywheel (especially the syncromesh in 2nd gear, constantly downshifting into 2nd) and saves fuel as well, its also more "civilised"  


And if you can keep the momentum up you can "fly" round and "blast" out of the roundabout


As long as there is not a foreigner, old person or female going round in front of you at walking pace (just kidding :lol:) (cue uproar)


of course, In a petrol engined car or Cor.a you might have to drop it into 2nd

#290267 2002 Mondeo 2.0 Tdci Starting Problem

Posted by FOCA on 15 September 2013 - 04:15 AM

hi guys I've just purchased a 2002 mondeo 2.0 tdci and I am having trouble starting the car when you insert the the key and turn the ignition on and wait for the glow plug light to go out the car fails to even turn over it is like the immobiliser is stuck on then after a while trying the start procedure several times the car starts but runs really rough you can't hold the car at a constant speed it sounds like it is misfiring badly till you accelerate can any shed some light on this problem !!!!!



Taken from my thread on this:


<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< UPDATE >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< UPDATE >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< UPDATE >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
I purchased a cheap throttle position sensor from ebay for £15 (genuine part normally costs £70), fitted it and didn't solve the problem, so moving on.
After some research this is what I have found with regards to the stuttering/fuel starvation/misfiring :::
ecutesting.com :::
This common fault of misfire on two cylinders or complete non start is often caused by the ignition coil pack shorting out on the vehicle - it is very important that the ignition coil pack is replaced at the same time as refitting your ECU after it has been repaired - or your faulty coil pack may damage the repaired ECU. - http://www.ecutestin...u_misfire_.html
EXCELLENT thread from RAC.co.uk on this topic :::
Lots of detail into this very common Focus MK1 98-04 fault here: 
How I think the problem occurred :::
I believe that when the speed sensor started malfunctioning I continued to drive the car, which may have caused the faulty speed sensor to damage the



Ignition Coil Pack which then damaged the ECU.
How I'm going to tackle it now :::
Take out the ECU, read it's part number and send the ECU off for repair/replacement by ecutesting.com for (hopefully) £150.
Purchase new ignition coil pack for £25.
Will let you know how it goes   :)

Thats very interesting, but - a 2002 Mondeo TDCI  (the OPs car)- is a diesel, so unfortunately it does not have, spark plugs, HT leads , or ignition coill packs   

#290266 Always Comes In Three's

Posted by FOCA on 15 September 2013 - 03:31 AM

When Lenny's new project blows a head gasket ( ;)) he'll be waiting for you in your custom Focus :D


Hahah that tickled me :)

Notice it says "when" not "if" - when you are having that much fun and it starts when you turn the key as well - its a bonus! :lol:  

#290265 Audio Experts Please View, Lenny Requires Sound Advise

Posted by FOCA on 15 September 2013 - 03:14 AM

Jesus mate,
Your putting a lot of time in to this for me I really appreciate it,

FOCA - I enjoy it - i get really enthusiastic and often get "carried away" with a project - i used to design/ build large scale PA systems (mobile and club) and would like to apply the techniques/ technology to car audio + the "high end, powerful but lightweight" concept  

I would love to have a "mental" audio installation but went for the "basic/ stripped out" style - im jealous really - after "sweating blood" to get the weight down on my project car, there is no way im going to put it back in (with audio gear) - thats why i was thinking "lightweight" - still too heavy for me - needs to be "featherweight" - most people thing im completely mad doing that to a Mondeo


You can draw aswell lol I'm not that good personally,

FOCA - Thanks -  im not that good either but i can draw from memory/ out of my head


When you say you have the sub I presume you mean you have found a specific model that will do the job,
Or d you mean you physically have a sub for sale that will do the job,

FOCA - yes (in other post)

To be honest I don't understand the x over, or bridging but ill learn from google so as i get up to speed with the terms mate,
I dont want to waste your time explaining the terms to me, keep talking terms
Ill research the terms myself to get myself up to speed with what your telling me so as i understand fully.

A lot of people would not get their heads arounf this atall - for other readers bridging is combining 2 amps in a special way to increase power output - output can be quadrupled - x-overs or crossovers spit the sound into different bands 2 way, 3 way or more passive - x-overs  is between the amp and speakers (or boult into the speakers) active x-over(s)n  is where the sound is split into multiple bands before going into the amps - for more power and quality -

FOCA - So with the levin the sound would be split into 3 bands (using an active x-over after coming out of the head unit) bass, mid and treble - the bass would go into the bridged amp (2 of the 4 channels in the "rear" amp) then into the 8" bass speaker - the mid output (from the x-over) would feed the 6" speakers (all with seperate amps) and the treble (output from the x-over) would feed the tweeters (again seperate amps for every speaker unit) - so you would need 4 up front (for 6" & tweeter, L&R) - but the head unit could do and the 3 amps in the rear - if you wanted to also add a pair of tweeters to the rear, (i just thought of that) you would need another 2 amps (a pair) that would then be nine amps in total, - this would give individual control of eack of the speakers, the x-over frequencies would be adjustable too - so it would be the "ultimate" in control to get the best sound, and the seperate amps increase the power, and sound quality - a high(er) end head unit would have a multi- band graphic built in - ideally you need one with saperate pre - outs and inputs for the built-in amps, ultimately you may have to use more external amps 

I understand each speaker will be dedicated audio sounds and looks fantastic,
Will i need to fit the boxs for the speakers ?
I was going to mount them in to the parcel shelf directly,

You could but the sound & power would be better with the enclosures
Do you mean to fit the box under the parcel shelf inside the boot to create an enclosure,

FOCA - Yes - spot on

I like the spacer for the sub too that would be spot on mate,

Yes, it will stiffen the area around the speaker - the "overlap" ("masking" of part of the speaker) should not effect the sound as its bass only 

Whats the difference between 2 way concentric speakers u font
2 way component speakers up front

FOCA - The concentric speakers would be one "component" with the tweeter in the middle of the woofer - and with just + & - / one channel / connection(s) that would just connect directly to the front speaker outlets of the head unit (so, simple to set up & compact - a good pair would give decent sound and extended treble) - "wwin cone" is just 1 speaker with an extra "cone" in the middle to boost treble


The 2-way component speakers would have a woofer, and a seperate tweeter - this is more complicated, expensive and you have to find space for the tweeters, the sound should be better (on high end units, anyway) and there should be a better power handling - you can also power the tweetwers with seperate amps ("active") - again increasing power, and handling, and you would have a pair of amps left over (the rear speaker outputs on the head unit - you wouldent otherwise use them because of the amp/s powering the rear speakers )   

Its going to be great fun relocating the battery to the boot and fitting this speaker set up,
When relocating the battery,
I run a positive cable from the battery in the boot to the engine bay,
Do I splice it with the original battery positive or run it straight to the altinator?
I've also found a braille battery on eBay that is a dry cell designed for fitting in the car,
As result doesn't give off gasses or leak acid.
Also spotted vented battery boxes that are air tight sealed,
With a pipe to run through a grommet in the floor allowing the battery enclosure to be vented directly outside the car,

FOCA - Ive found (it wasnt me actually- it was on another forum) a battery that is sealed, is powerful enough for the Levin and weighs 2kgs! (its a racing bike battery- nimh) - its not cheap though

#290235 Audio Experts Please View, Lenny Requires Sound Advise

Posted by FOCA on 14 September 2013 - 09:23 PM

Ok - your asking all the right questions- the reason the 2 (6") side speakers have their own enclosures is to isolate them from the 8" sub - the boot space becomes one big speaker enclosure (technically "infinate baffle") the sub needs this to get the cone excursion and to produce the low frequencies/ bass  - if the 2 side speakers are not phisically isolated it means they are effectively in the same enclosure - so the powerfull (low frequency) movement of the subwoofer cone could "push" the smaller (6") speakers the speakers tend to be "semi - transparent" to sound and much of the sound can radiate from the back of the speakers and "rattle around" in the boot space - the enclosures help to stop/ reduce both these things - the enclosures are not essential - but better - the 6" will not need big enclosures/ boxes (as they don't have to handle the bass) so they can be "tight" around the 6" speakers - keeping the boxes stiff and light - they could also be filled with acoustic wadding (cotton wool etc) so they would be like 2 bookshelf speakers



As far as im aware the relocation kits simply attach to the old battery posts - its a good idea of yours to put them directly to the alternator - there is probably a heavy- duty cable going to the starter motor - you could probably connect direct to this too - and the earth strap from the battery to engine & chassis - it would depend on the layout of the wiring (ie - whats the point of putting a heavy duty cable to where the battery used to be, then another to the starter motor)


Ive got a high-end 8" speaker (a pair, actually) they were in a set of studio/ Dj monitors - i don't use them now as i have a set of Dynaudio bm6As - ive got far too much stuff i barely use and im having a clearout -  im not fitting high- end audio to my car to keep the weight down - but i would love to see gear like this fitted to a car - thats probably why i ive been thinking about it - a friend recommended i got an a3 pad and start writing any ideas down - this was the 1st think if written/ drawn - ive not drawn anything in years (its all in my head) - ive a feeling i will be scribbling a lot more stuff down


the audio setup would be a bit special - i don't think there would be another quite like it


I will come back to this later with more info .......     

#290227 Anyone Know The Curb Weight Of The Focus Mk2.5?

Posted by FOCA on 14 September 2013 - 08:46 PM

That must be the gross vehicle weight (1835kgs)  - the curb weight is probably  about 1350-1400kgs -if so  the payload is about 435 - 485kgs max  


Years ago my dad had a Toyota Corrolla twin-cam 16v (RWD) - it was a UK model (i think), it was a hatchback - i have vague reclections of it, one of them was when it was in bits and looking at the rear suspension, which looked a bit special  

#290218 Audio Experts Please View, Lenny Requires Sound Advise

Posted by FOCA on 14 September 2013 - 07:54 PM

Ive sketched some details -


550d  Ai 012- Levin audio install crop- bright-1200 wide .jpg


I have the 8" sub but im still tracking down the other components - the x-over is based on a PA system so it might be difficult to track one down with the right specs (stell searching)


the pro- audio drive units are 8 ohm so they need "mighty" amps to drive them, the sub would use 2 of the 4 amps (bridged) so that will help, along with the efficiency of the drivers

#290214 Stuttering When Accelerating In 2Nd And 3Rd Gear

Posted by FOCA on 14 September 2013 - 07:26 PM

Problem solved.


Remapped the ECU... ;)

Exellent - now you get to drive your brilliant Mondeo :)

#290210 Lenny Purchase A New Whip? Or Get Serious!!

Posted by FOCA on 14 September 2013 - 07:15 PM

Thanks mate,
I got a look at the flexi-downpipe too,
Its already 2.5" internal diameter the same as the exhaust so its now 2.5'' free flow from cat to tip,
Only restrictions are a 1" micro mesh cat and the muffler :)

Such a shame that you have come this far but not done the last little bit - if you got that bit done you might not have to wait for V so much if she was following you in your Levin!   :lol:


Is the muffler a "straight through" tipe? (not very restrictive)


I forgot to ask - is it noticably louder?

#290187 Lenny Purchase A New Whip? Or Get Serious!!

Posted by FOCA on 14 September 2013 - 06:20 PM

DPF internal removed yesterday and has given 3 times the increase felt from egr blanking,
Levin is now top of the list,
I've took a bit of the dpf combe home for a Souvenir lol

The DPF would have been the main bottleneck in the exhaust system, holding the 2-1/2 inch system back -  now it can reach closer to its potential  (the turbo is almost bound to spool up faster, and probably worth a few (measurable) Hp on the dyno too)  

#290184 Lenny Purchase A New Whip? Or Get Serious!!

Posted by FOCA on 14 September 2013 - 06:14 PM

Found a Volkswagen polo local,
Must have sold on eBay and awaiting collection lmao.

. IMG_20130914_091627_zps8f2c8b89.jpg

I hope they send it recorded delivery - it will never fit through the letterbox! :lol:

#290181 Anyone Know The Curb Weight Of The Focus Mk2.5?

Posted by FOCA on 14 September 2013 - 06:08 PM

Its printed on the label that is on the inside of the drivers door,
Think mine is 1,750kg very heavy for a hatch,
That's not including the body kit, exhaust, egr blank, 18" rims and all the wiring + light units,
But it does exclude the spare wheel, brace and jack, who ever he is and the Dom Dom dah D.P.F

1750kg! - ouch -  what a bloater :lol: (can it really be that heavy?) - no wonder you are planning the Levin


My Mondeo with fitted wheels and all  kit, fluids, inc. 1/4 tank of fuel etc is (just) under 1400Kgs (about the same as an Focus ST225 hatch)- and its an estate!


With the MOT now out of the way, i recon another minus 30/ 40kgs and a with a bit more power/ torque too - i woold like to see 200HP and 400Nm   


My dads Toyota was being repaired and i remember thinking the rear suspension looked like something off a race car or an aircraft as it was full of holes and looked very light - the suspension was a "work of art" compared to an ordinary car


A lot of people underestimate the importance of (light) weight  - your Levin will be the weight of an F1 car lighter than your Focus!

#290016 Anyone Know The Curb Weight Of The Focus Mk2.5?

Posted by FOCA on 13 September 2013 - 10:41 PM

As title says really... 1.6 diesel engine specifically though 

Depends on different things - like the bodyshape - the estate is heavier than the hatch, and the trim level - entry level cars can be a lot lighter than "fully loaded" cars with all the "toys"- even different wheels and having a full-size spare is significant -   the "curb wiight" may mean the "dry" curb weight or the "wet" curb weight (with oil, fuel, coolant etc)


So its approx 1229 to 1630kgs across the range - more information would be required (body style/ model/ extras) to get the exact weight of a 1.6 diesel