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Member Since 30 Oct 2012
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#324346 Clutch And Cruise Control - Are They Linked? Ford Mk4 Mondeo

Posted by FOCA on 21 January 2014 - 08:05 PM

There is a microswitch on the clutch pedal that tells the ECU that the clutch pedal is pressed, the CC disengages when you press it, this may have something to do with the CC or the problems you have encountered with the CC may be unrelated to the CC 


A car could go for 100,000s of miles with no problems or fail/ not start all the time and cost a fortune in parts or repairs - its just a machine that follows the laws of physics, being 100% reliable is highly unlikely


People often apportion human emotions to their cars - they "trust" a car / expect it to be reliable, then when it fails they stop "trusting" it - both are illogical


Almost all modern diesels now have DMFs, and DPFs, EGR valves, etc etc   

#324220 Urgent Advice Needed. Possibly Been Scammed Re: Dpf Delete

Posted by FOCA on 21 January 2014 - 04:08 PM

Fords are different from audis etc - remappers that can electronically delete the EGR on other cars cannot do Euro4 Fords  


If he does not sort it out you can get your money back via your credit card company

#323694 Matte Black Vinyl Wrap Hard Water Marks

Posted by FOCA on 19 January 2014 - 11:08 PM

I note the trees in the picture, the leaves can contain sap that can stain paint, the sun can also bleach the wrap,(this is what i think has happened) its possible it has faded so cannot be fixed by washing - if it was paint it could be buffed out - i don't know about wrap    

#323676 Wats Ur Favourite Car

Posted by FOCA on 19 January 2014 - 10:30 PM

That would be my worse nightmare blowing my car up racing it.

Happens all the time when you are racing


Took a brand new (handbuilt/ one of a kind) engine that took six months to build for a test at a track, someone (not me) made a mistake and we only had enough of the special (difficult to get/ordered in advance) fuel we were using for two laps, the driver forgot about the limited fuel and stayed out for several laps, (it was "flying") the engine ran out of fuel flat out in top, at the end of the straight, it siezed, - i was gutted, we had to run with the (crappy) back up engine,as the budjet was not there to rebuild the f-inished engine - i quit soon after that


You might spend £100k on the car, but you probably need another £100k to race it


I like my Mondeo, it is my favorite car,  its fast enogh for me(ish), is practical, economical, can run on veg oil and does not attract attention - no other car mentioned on this thread can do all of that       

#323238 What Would You Consider Fast? 70Mph - 80/100/130/150/200Mph?

Posted by FOCA on 18 January 2014 - 06:51 PM

Well, we have had the 70mph motorway speed limit since 1968, cars have changed a lot since then, and 70mph is a very slow speed, 47 years later, for a modern car  


But - what do you consider fast?


and what would be regarded a quick 0-60mph?


off road, of course!   

#322810 Night Shift Forum!

Posted by FOCA on 17 January 2014 - 01:16 PM

I think both of you need new batteries. Remember to get the silver calcium type though!! :P

:lol:  :lol:  :lol:


Im thinking about the ones the Duracell bunny uses - where would i put them, though?, any ideas? :D

#322778 Night Shift Forum!

Posted by FOCA on 17 January 2014 - 10:58 AM

It feels weird, I don't get to partake in this thread much at the moment, something weird started to happen recently. when I lay down I lose consciousness... I think I need to see my doctor!

Sounds strange! - it happend to me too - once in a while, from time to time, i regain counsciousness soon after,though, so back to normal :lol:  

#321867 Does An Electronic Fuel Pump Have To Be "primed" Before Installation?

Posted by FOCA on 15 January 2014 - 08:50 AM

Thank you FOCA for the very detailed description. It mirrors what jeebo told me.

I think I am best taking it my mates garage (halfrauds.....say no more) because, as you say, they have all the necessary equipment required if the battery does go flat etc etc.
I just dont understand why he would say it doesnt need priming but having said that, its not his car is it!

Im taking it down either today or tomorrow but I will insist it be primed first.
I will buy a jerry can and put some diesel in it therefore, theres no excuse to not prime it then.... :)

It does not need priming as it is self priming - in theory - the system will bleed - eventually - but the massive fuel filter has to be filled up with fuel from the pump and all the air expelled, the battery will be flat long, long before you do that and it can take a long time before the system is bled and the engine will start  


Filling the fuel filter with diesel helps the bleeding process :lol: "get going"


Thats what i mean about the difference between theory and practice - changing the fuel filter is a deceptively difficult job, with pitfalls - its easy to spill diesel, on the Mondeo the alternator is right under the fuel filter - even a well-known Fodr magazine editor managed to get it wrong by re-connecting the hoses up the wrong way   

#321848 Create A "nocturnal" Forum?

Posted by FOCA on 15 January 2014 - 06:35 AM


What - its not a nocturnal forum already? :lol:  


We could call it the "night shift"

#321840 Does An Electronic Fuel Pump Have To Be "primed" Before Installation?

Posted by FOCA on 15 January 2014 - 05:16 AM

Take it to a local garage an have them do it for you,I attempted changin it half knowing what to do and couldn't get it started again.had to call someone out and it took them a good 40 mins to get it started after I'd had a go at it lol

After changing the fuel filter, the car can be very difficult to start, even if you "prime" the filter - its not the pump that is primed, but the filter, by filling it with diesel, this helps the system bleed quicker  even so,  it can take a lot of turning over before the engine starts, the battery can go flat in the meantime and it is even been known that the starter motor burns out trying to start the engine


An additional electrical power source (booster, jump ;leads and another battery orcar) is almost always nessesary as the battery will almost certainly go flat before the engine starts, turning it over it too short bursts won't work, too long and it can drain your electrical power and eventually burn out the starter motor, if its taking a long time to fire up its a good idea to let the starter motor cool down for a while then start again


If you read a Haynes manual or read how someone else did it they make it sound easy, eg "prime the fuel filter by filling it with diesel then turn the engine over untill it starts" you wonder if they actually ever worked on a car/ changed a diesel filter as Fords are usually very difficult to start after changing the diesel filter, as they have no primer built-in


I remember towing cars for "miles" before they started, last time i changed the oil filter i primed the fuel filter by filling it with diesel, then i connected power straight from the battery to the (electrical) lift pump, and ran it for a while to bleed the system, - the engine started 1st time after that, no problem  


There is a "knack" to it that comes with experience 


The fuel system has to be bled so that there are no air bubbles in it, it does not matter if there are air bubbles in the return line  


The oil filter does not neer to be primed, just drain the oil oil, change the oil filter, then top the engine up with new oil  

#320876 Best Aftermarket Air Filter For Focus Mk2.5

Posted by FOCA on 13 January 2014 - 04:43 AM

So are we saying that panel are better than a cones by stopping the most dirt?


Its the filter medium rather than the type


The paper filters filter out the most dust/ particles (stock or pattern panel filters)


the foam filters come second (Pipercross)


them the oiled cotton filters (K&N/ green cotton)


Finally, the wire mesh filters are the worst for filtration,


It also depends on the exact make, - some paper filters filter out almost 100% of the dust


When a K&N or olied filter is new, it allows more dirt through, as a layer of dirt builds up, it filters better (but still not as well as a paper filter)


The point is that on engines that have no improvement with a K&N all you are doing is letting more dust into the engine by fitting a K&N,compared to a paper filter, its only a small percentage of finer particles so nothing to get worked up about, but as K&Ns are also more expensive than stock paper filters, (ie- i can buy 5 pattern paper filters for the cost of 1 K&N) it makes little sense to fit a K&N


If a K&N is over-olied, the oil can get onto the MAF sensor, if it is a hot-wire type MAF, it works by putting a current through a wire in the intake airstream, and measuring the temprature, if the oil gets onto the wire, it can insulate the wire from the air, which can knock the air-fuel mixture out, K&N even withdrew their oiled cotton type filters and replaced them with foam types,(like pipercross ones) for some cars


Of course, its now well known (on forums etc) is that an open, underbonnet cone filter loses power because it draws warm underbonnet air (cooler air = denser air = more oxegen = more power) but the efforts car manufacturers go to with induction design is not so well known, the stock induction design on many modern cars is often designed to utilise the intake pulses/ to resonate ate specific frequency's (aka a "tuned length") and the airbox is a specific volume etc,so it boosts low-down torque or fills in the midrange flat spot- so removing the stock airbox and fitting a cone filter can knock this advantage off, the resulting loss (eg) in bottom end power cam give the illusion that the midrange/ top eng is stronger, combined with the extra noise cam give the illusion that the car is quicker - when it is not


Years ago (stock) intake design was very basic, and there was a lot of underbonnet space, so sticking a K&N cone filter on your car was an actual improvement, as time went on, intake design improved, manufacturers made cool intake systems, filter design improved, a modern filter is now about the size of a manhole cover when stretched out , it does not significantly restrict the airflow and supplies sufficient air to the engine it is fitted to, - because it is so big often fitting a different filter type or even completely removing the filter does not increase the overall airflow


So that leaves companies like Mountune to carefully develop intake/ induction systems that are actually better than the stock systems, and unless you really, really know what ylu are doing (and have access to a dyno/ rolling road etc) you are probably better off leaving your iir filter/ box/ induction stock and just replace your filter element frequently


When a paper filter is new, it flows well, as time goes on, the tiny holes get blocked, and the filter becomes (gradually more)restricted, it may look ok, but may restrict the airflow, it does this sooner than other types of filters, in my opinion, a frequently changed (6-months/ 6k) paper (stock or pattern) filter will outperform an aftermarket filter all -round on a stock or mildly tuned car , i pay £5 for mine so i get 3- years worth of filters compared to a £30 K&N, the paper filter filters better so i don't have to worry about dust particles damaging my engine (if i was using a K&N etc) another thing worth considering is you don't have to inform your insurance that you are running a stock filter, changing it frequently is just good practice/ looking after your car, will help economy too


I was on the dyno last year, i only had 2 runs, so i tried different boost pressure levels (i have an adjustable controller) i would have liked to have tried different inlet configurations, and filters, i may book a day and do that some time (expensive) i would take different filters and test them, - you could do this too if you are serious about tuning - i see you are in Moray - you could contact Wallace performance in Aberdeen i plan to take a Green cotton filter, a K&N, a Pipercross and a stock filter (all new) i may try the Pipercross venom and BMC CDA enclosed filters, i might bring an open K&N for a laugh or to show how much power it loses the tests will be run with the bonnet closed an open bonnet can give false results - you could do this yourself and post the results, if the "performance" filters show no improvement you would be better sticking with a stock filter, because of the cheaper cost, no insurance hassles and better filtration


i change my stock (cheap pattern filter £5) every 6-months 6k - thats on a tuned diesel running 160+ Hp up from 113Hp stock - the filter element is the same on all Mondeos the ST220 has the same element (so if the filter is enough fior a 220HP 3.0L- its good enough for 113/160HP 2.0L)- the Focuses, Fiestas are often the same, with the 1.4, 1.6 and 2.0L sharing the same filter size


So keep changing the stock filter and save up for an ST, leave the "micky mouse" mods for the corsa boys, it will slow them down even more :lol: 

#320630 Best Aftermarket Air Filter For Focus Mk2.5

Posted by FOCA on 12 January 2014 - 02:57 PM

Thanks for your feedback. I read a review (Attached below) Where foam filters perform better then cotton ones such as pipercross filters has anybody used one of them?


Yes, i tried a massive pipercross rally car filter on my race car but it restricted the flow so much it would not rev at the top end (so did a very large K&N cone filter)  so i went back to an open bellmouth


The reveiw is no good because it measures the filters away from actual engines and does not take things like heatsoak, and the intake resonant frequency/ tuned length  


With the Fiesta ST150 used - in the test - the cone filters outflowed the stock filter when connected to a test rig but i know that they loose power compared to the stock airbox,


The reason for that is


1 - The engine does not actually require a lot of air and the stock filter is sufficient


2 - The cone filters draw warm underbonnet air which looses power - the stock filter/ intake does not


3 - The stock filter is often designed to boost torque at specific revs, - (ie - at low revs or to "fill in" a midrange flat spot) - a cone filter is not


Also, if you look at the test the better the flow the worse the filtration, the wire mesh one flowed the best but its filtration was poor  


The reality is - on your car is if you switch filters you mightl just make more noise and no more power, if you are really lucky, you could make an extra 2hp, but it is unlikely   

#320557 Best Aftermarket Air Filter For Focus Mk2.5

Posted by FOCA on 12 January 2014 - 09:54 AM


Me too, Although green ones seem to be recommended on this forum cant see there being any noticable difference between the two

They are both oiled cotton types, that can contaminate MAFs (especially if they are over-oiled by the owner after cleaning) and can allow small particles of dust into the engine (not 100% efficient at filtering) - moreso when the filter is new and it has not built up a layer of dust, then it filters more particles


The Green cotton filter has a better bonding process/ design than the K&N that allows a larger surface area (more air/ less restriction) and the green colour allows you to see when the filter needs cleaned,(the K&Ns are black and can get filthy and can get left on cars for years as there owners think they will last forever) - the K&Ns tend to be cheaper, though



On some cars switching to a performance fillter makes is no difference at all (often, the filter is not the bit "holding the engine back" -  as the filter may have a large surface area - ie-the size of a manhole cover - and the main restriction is elsewhere in the induction system) - so adding a K&N is just allowing more dust particles into the engine with no gain

On some cars  there is no actual power gain but an improvement in throttle response 

On some there is a slight increase in HP at high revs (typically 1 to 2 HP) - usually on NA


On some there is no power improvement in the band but a slight improvement in throttle response and reduction in lag and a little more power at very low revs before the turbo spools up (on a turbo, petrol or diesel) 


Ive done a lot of research on this and one of these days i will publish the findings (when i get round to it :lol: )



Im not a big fan and i use a cheap pattern paper filter on mine and change it every 6 months - a new paper filter will outperform (for airflow) an old, clogged "performance" one and filters dust/ contaminants much better - and my engine produces 160+ HP (independantly dyno tested) from the 113HP stock with the paper filter fitted

#316899 Electric Superchargers???

Posted by FOCA on 01 January 2014 - 11:44 PM

The intake of a naturally aspirated car at the throttle body can suck your hand in how in the world is that stupid fan to better that? You'll get more hp cleaning the intake and throttle body

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Ford OC mobile app

I did a little bit of research to see if it was possible, even if the compessor/ impellor was properly designed, the cars'  electrical system would not have enough power to supply an powerfull enough electric motor to make any significant difference


To put it into perspective, a (VW) Corrado g60 supercharger uses about 8Hp of the engines power (belt droven), and thats just a small, 160Hp engine (not a dragster) 8Hp is approx 20 TIMES  the TOTAL output of a typical alternator - so there is never going to be enough electrical power available on a typical car,


possibly on a hybrid (petrol-electric or diesel electric) with a lot of electrical power but  turbochargers are more efficient anyway


Bottom line is the electic supercharger could not work (increase power) on a regular car because there is not enough power in the cars electical system to power an electric motor powerful enough to make any significant difference       

#316650 When Does The Turbo Kick In ????

Posted by FOCA on 01 January 2014 - 02:30 AM



Not impossible - smooth driving has got me an average 60.7mpg over 80,000 miles, measured brim-to-brim with each fill (Mk2 2007 1.6TDCi).  Dropped to mid 50s over the past few months but now better after taking out the dpf.  Managed 65mpg on a 1,000 mile trip from Wales to the south of France last weekend, mainly 70mph motorway speeds with the odd slower section due to heavy traffic.  I've got an egr blanking plate but not fitted it yet - might see a small further improvement after that.


On the turbo question, we seem to have a range of between 1000 and 1700prm for kick-in from the posts above - is there a definitive answer or does it depend on the engine model and the way its tuned?  I used to notice a pick up in accelearation at about 1500rpm, but now it pulls nicely right through the whole range - is this due to the remap done at the same time as the dpf removal?

These turbolag/ power delivery/ boost threshold issues are complicated to explain


1st of all it may seem like the "turbo kicks in" at specific revs, it does not, it depends on factors like temprature, load etc


The turbo will boost completely differently in 1st than it does in top at the same engine revs as the transient or time response is different  and the engine revs do not match the turbo revs


So in 1st, the engine can rev through its powerband quickly (due to the realatively light load) and the turbo can have difficulty boosting fast enough (more about transient response/ (time) than revs) so the turbo may lag behind the engine, in a higher gear, the turbo has more time to boost, as the engine revs through its power band slower, so the turbo has more time to "catch up" with the engine


So some turbo diesels accelerate faster  in some gears than others (and not in the way expected)


The DPF forms a restriction on the output of the turos turbine, removing it allows the exhaust gasses to exit sooner, faster, that makes the turbine spool sooner, quicker, from lower revs, the turbine is connected directly to the compressor - so if the turbine spools quicker the compressor does too - the compressor spinning up quicker allows more boost, quicker, on demand


The same boost control systems are still in place so the peak boost is not increased but the throttle response is improved, and the engine should bull better from lower revs and stronger through the powerband  


The remap should work in conjunction with the DPF delete to make an integrated system/ tune to increase power/ torque through the rev-range the additional energy from the extra fuel added increasing the energy in the turbo, in turn 



Ive dumbed it down a bit because i don't really know how to explain things like the difference between the boost threshhold and "true" turbo lag