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FOCA

Member Since 30 Oct 2012
Offline Last Active Today, 04:27 AM
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#313896 Goodyear Tyres For 1.6 Focus Or Others?

Posted by FOCA on 21 December 2013 - 04:23 PM

Just to update this thread:

 

So I have had the GoodYear EfficientGrips for about a month now.

 

They seem smooth, and are nice and quiet. But one thing I am disappointed with is the wet performance - even when the road is slightly damp, wheelspin occurs far too easily. Wheelspin was very rare with my old Michelin's, but on these, even the slightest dab of the throttle causes wheelspin (eg taking off at roundabouts), which is very annoying. Doesn't give much confidence. 

 

Anyone else experienced frequent wheelspin?

Summer tyres are not designed to work at under 7 degrees centigrade -

 

At higher tempratures the Goodyears may work a lot better in the wet, pressures are important too, and getting some heat into the tyres (eg higher pressures / driving harder/ warming the tyres up)  

 

The Goodyears have a high silica content that increases efficiency/ MPG/ longevity and reduces noise but is not as grippy at low temps - unfortunately every tyre is a compromise  

 

A couple of extra psi could make a big difference becase it helps to get heat into the tyres - improving grip, nitrogen- filled tyres also help, because you can run a higher cold pressure than with air (with the same warm pressure)

 

keeping the weight forward will help traction too, like if you are carrying a load, keep it forward of the rear wheels, in the snow, i fill my footwell up with 80kgs and detune the engine  - this turns the car from "undrivable" to good in the snow   

 

With 360+Nm FWD and no form of traction control i get wheelspin all the time, coming out of wet roundabouts, or even in a straight line - all the way up to 80, oops i mean 70, you just get used to it and drive the car to the available grip, its the difference between a "driver" and just someone who drives, just be smoother/ use a little less throttle or short shift when the wheels start to spin




#313813 New Rules On Dpf Removal Starting Feb 2014

Posted by FOCA on 21 December 2013 - 12:07 AM

i dont get this thought that just because diesels are only tested for smoke that this could never change with the new legislation coming in.

ive no idea what they will come up with, but you can bet your last £1 that they are looking for something that goes beyond a visual/smoke test, otherwise they would have already announced that this will be just a visual/smoke check.

 

i'll say it again...the pressure for more stringent tests goes beyond the government and vosa...there are many powerful bodies out there with a concerned interest in seeing this practice ended.

 

think about it...DPF is not to lower emissions in the same way a cat is..its there to stop the natural hazardous by-products of diesel burning..these are the particulates

 

look around europe, legislation has been increased everywhere for many years in everything from industrial engines to smaller than any car motor out there..for longer than this country has been trying to get up to scratch...even the states has been tinkering with this problem since the eighties.

 

the technology exists to test exhaust systems for harmful particulates...otherwise how would manufacturers release the figures in the first place...vosa have been tinkering with the idea of obd in mot's for years already, at one point it was suggested any current fault codes would fail a test...that was binned when it was pointed out some vehicles produce codes just for plugging in, renault being a prime eg...point is, the idea of going down that route has and probably still is, being floated about.

 

it really is a tough decision to make to go ahead with deleting, if the system is already failed then may pay to go ahead anyway as anything more advanced than visual/smoke wont happen in feb, but anyone that states it will only ever be a visual/smoke test is kidding themselves.

when you consider the amount of different type systems being fitted, its going to be difficult to know which vehicles were fitted with/without in the first place...but i can even see a possibility in the future that all diesels will have to be retrofitted...dont dismiss that, already talks of diesels without this system being banned from central london.

 

vosa have got there workl cut out to put in place a foolproof system, in my head, the only way they can do this is to have DPF vehicles tested at specific centres, that could be a very attractive financial proposition for garages willing to invest in the extra equipment required...

whatever they come up with, if its done 'right', the people who may get caught out with this will be in no position to appeal or argue as its already illegal anyway, and you can bet your last £1 (if you didnt earlier) the companies offering the delete now will be pushing much harder than anyone else in offering a refit, only this time they will up their profit margin as they know you no longer have the choice.

Ive heard this all before with cats/ decats and other things

 

its simply not economic or practical to equip every MOT testing station with special equipment, it may be a good few years untill things are different from what they are now (simple particulates test and visual inspection of the prescence of a DPF, when possible)  

 

This is a political thing, not a technical one - politically- the government wants to stop people from removing their DPFs, but without the technical means of detecting a DPF is present or not, so a press release is given where they say DPF deletes on cars that had them as OE spec are outlawed but there is no practical way of testing the prescence of a DPF or not >>provided the car does not produce exessive particulates(smoke) and the DPF looks phisically unaltered from the outside/ with a phisical inspection<<, so basically, its propaganda, and it will scare quite a few people from getting DPF deletes 

 

Governments / eurocrats should not get involved in technical matters - because they don't really understand these things and almost always mess them up- it should be left to the designers/ technicians who know what they are doing  

 

The overall impact of the presence of the DPF must be looked at, including the cost, materials used and amont of pollution produced to manufacture the DPF/ over and over during the vehicles lifespan,, the extra cost to the consumer of the DPF, the extra poluttion the extra fuel required causes to the enviroment during normal running and during forced regens etc that the presence of the DPF causes etc etc and the exessive consumption a faulty or blocked DPF causes  

 

Another thing to point out is the DPF does not actually stop a diesel engine producing soot, it only collects it (the engine produces same amount of soot with, or without a DPF) - when a DPF equipped engine gets older, it can produce smoke particles when accelerating, especially in the lower gears (in built up areas/ potentially near schools etc) instead of it being "spread around"  

 

if a DPF - eqquiped diesel car is used frequently for short journeys, the consumption can go right up, this fuel has to be refined etc, and the overall pollution/ impact on the enviroment may be considerable

 

Engines (and fuels) need to be developed to the point that something as backward as a DPF is no longer nessesary because the emmisions from the engine is clean enough anyway

 

Companies and garages will continue to provide DPF deletes (probably for years to come) but they will be officially for "off road use only" (eg for your "track day" 1.6 TDCI :lol: ) - simples  




#313770 Very Poor Mpg After Egr Blank

Posted by FOCA on 20 December 2013 - 08:22 PM

Aw mate dont say that! :D

What do you think could be the problem?
Its so strange how blanking my EGR has had the complete opposite effect to what 99.9% of people experience.
Could it be my injectors out of sync or something along them lines and if so, how do I find that out?
Should I remove the blank and have the DPF removed and ecu remap but NOT remove the EGR software?

Glad (in a friendly way) that yours also sounds like a tractor in this weather! LOL

If you have the DPF deleted that will eliminate that, if that is your problem, if it is something else, at least you car rule the DPF out and look elsewhere for the fault  

 

Better to blank the EGR, having a working one is bad news for all sorts of reasons, including the inlet getting contaminated/ eventually choked with carbon

 

Your loss of MPG may be completely unconnected with the EGR and may be simply a coincedance - best to have it blanked, especially if you are going to go for a DPF delete/ remap as you can get the electronic EGR delete done at the same time as your remap 




#313753 Converting From Dmf To Smf

Posted by FOCA on 20 December 2013 - 06:59 PM

 

I think people who change them before they go, change at about 80k miles, so that ought to be a pretty safe figure to aim for. How close are you to that now?

 

 

Good to have some real experience. Do you find any reduction in smoothness and refinement at motorway/dual carriageway speeds?

It is hard to say because the DMF in my car was gradually deteriorating, overall the SMF is much smoother than the worn out DMF, at motorway speeds, i would say there is no noticable difference, i get a slight vibration at some revs when accelerating  but i tend to accelerate through it, i cannot say 100% this is because of the SMF,though,the TDDI can be a bit "rough" the chap with the ST-TDCI (2.2) says his feels smooth      




#313622 Converting From Dmf To Smf

Posted by FOCA on 20 December 2013 - 11:46 AM

When my DMF started playing up i fitted an SMF, the car ran a lot smoother with the SMF than the old (worn out) DMF, and the transmission is a lot mor "direct" i like it that way, you have to be precise with you gearchanges - so not to everyones taste  

 

The SMF is simply a solid flywheel, it does not have springs, cogs, moving/ multiple parts to go wrong like a DMF has, an SMF (solid flywheel) should outlast a DMF (dual mass flywheel) by a large margin 

 

There is less "give" in the transmission,with an SMF, so it is a good idea to get a clutch with a sprung plate (cush drive) to put a bit of that "give" back in 

 

Oftem, when a car is heavily modified, the gearbox/ transmission has to be strengthened, to cope with the extra torque, the modifications to my car resulted in the early demise of my DMF, because the DMF could not cope with the extra low-down torque and "chewed" itself up

 

After a lot of research (ignoring the "internet scaremongers" and listening to experts/ professionals instead) i fiffed a balanced SMF, a matched clutch, with a heavy-duty backplate with 33% stronger clamping force, the driven plate is carbon fiber/ kevlar, and has a sprung plate/ cush drive - i also fitted a genuine Ford CSC at the same time

 

The firm that sold me it also supplies DMFs but recommended the SMF/ carbon/kevlar/ HD clutch for my modified car

 

That was a couple of years ago and the setup works perfect, it gets driven very hard occasionally (eg drag starts) and i expected it to be broken by now, but  the mtx75 5-speed is tougher than the 6-speed

 

I have recommended an SMF to a realative, that fitted a similar setup to mine (SMF etc) to their hard- driven (ex- race driver) ST-TDCI  and it works perfect/ he prefers it to the DMF (more "direct" ) 

 

EDIT - I like diesels, there aree 3 things i would not have on my cars - 1 an operational EGR valve - 2 a DPF - 3 a DMF - you would not believe how much better the car is without that junk        




#313619 Is Your Car Insurance Too High On Your Ford? - Here Is Why - Bbc News / Compe...

Posted by FOCA on 20 December 2013 - 11:10 AM

I want to ad an important note to this I now have absolute proof beyond doubt insurance companies are using information from comparison sites against us.

Last night I pulled out a new policy with one call insurance, this morning I had an email saying they will not provide me with insurance cover, based on mis represented info provided by me stating I did not disclose a pending fault claim and different address

Now at first I was shocked and thought I became the victim of identity theft as I have never made a claim before nor have I ever used any other address since the day I passed my test it was shocking spend 2 hours back and forth contacting my previous insurance companies in a desperate attempt trying the find out if a claim had been made against me etc with no luck they all confirmed the same info yet one call insurance insisted I have a fault claim on record, they made out this was the police record (MID) my current insurer confirned no such info has been entered onto MID

After a lengthy phone call the girl on the phone got very annoyed with me and told me the other address and date of the claim, it turned out 6 months ago I did a "feel" quote using my partner parents address comparing the difference in price based on address only I also did several other quotes out of curiosity such as speeding fines and points including a accident at fault claim testing what the difference in prices were, today I was truly shocked to find out this info was used against me even though they were only quotes and none were ever submitted for a policy nor have I ever committed any of the offences it created a sort of record thats not on the police database (MID) but is on some insurance companies record.

Now I'm down as some sort of prat providibg duff information lol do not trust those comparison sites it will be used against you



Sent from my GT-I9300 using Ford OC mobile app

So the insurance company misled/ lied to you

 

They must have a database/ blacklist, made up of unsubstantiated/ unconfirmed information/ rumors,allegations that the customer/ consumer has no access to, cannot refute/ defend against

 

You have done nothing wrong - it is the insurance companieis in the wrong, keeping a "blacklist" database like this, outside of the MID,

 

You are not a prat for finding out these things, and should not be persecuted for it, even a murderer is allowed to have their say in court, and is innocent untill proven guilty - by posting this you have become a consumer champion & campaigner

 

I thing everyone must be very careful incase these things used against you  

 

Did you give then you reg. no. or you real name when enquiring about your "feel" quote?  

  ,  




#312716 Is Your Car Insurance Too High On Your Ford? - Here Is Why - Bbc News / Compe...

Posted by FOCA on 17 December 2013 - 08:27 AM

Latest news from the BBC -

 

For various reasons insurance is too high (tell us something we don't know:) -

 

http://www.bbc.co.uk...siness-25403673

 

Also, the price comparison sites charge insurance companies to use them, then insist they can not offer the same product at a lower price elsewhere.  




#312559 Focus On Fire At Paul Walker Memorial Meet

Posted by FOCA on 16 December 2013 - 05:41 PM

Wonder what he thought when he saw the manifold glowing like that.

He thought "its glowing orange/ purple now - lets see if i can make it glow white hot"




#312481 Focus On Fire At Paul Walker Memorial Meet

Posted by FOCA on 16 December 2013 - 02:57 PM

Mabee he is getting done for breaking the peace

 

Or intolerable cruellty to cars!

 

i found this -

 

http://www.pressandj...le.aspx/3507453




#312125 Second Hand Mondeo St 07

Posted by FOCA on 15 December 2013 - 06:29 PM

The EGR can be blocked (solid, stainless dteen plate) but it is a Euro 4 and liable to put the EML on  

 

Unfortunately that is not all that goes wrong with them - the DMF can give trouble, the aux belt/ pulleys wears quite quickly (very long bely and poor tensioner design) cousing it to rattle on tickover and the electronic actuator can play up (VNT vanes can coke up)

 

When it is going well it is a nice car to drive with good handling and decent nidrange torque, with just a remap, can be made fairly quick, but still with a decent MPG (people have different ideas of what "quick" is, but its an exellent balance of power/ MPG )

 

typical mods are :- remap, larger FMIC, decat, free-flow stainless exhaust, i built my 2.0L TDDI estate to be quicker than an ST-TDCI hatch with these mods,- it was a lot of work to achieve/ exeed this    

 

the ST220 is a gutsy brute, dropping to 20mpg round town/ booting it, but its a nice car to drive, too, with a nice sounding & torquy v6, its not as quick as a Focus st-225, though

 

Another car worth considering is the mk4 Titanium x 2.2, its a bit newer,(the last mk3s are 7/8 years old now) and has more tuning potential, with 220HP potential with just a remap   




#307163 Rca/line Level Converter

Posted by FOCA on 28 November 2013 - 09:43 PM

Oh right thanks much simpler than I thought only needing one channel. Wont be fitting until January. But I like to be prepared :D

Thanks again.

There are only 2 channels on a car system, R + L (right and left) the (eg) left speakers (front and rear) are fed by the same (left) channel

 

Strictly speaking,(going "buy the book") you should connect both the L+R channels to the sub, but you can "get away" with only connecting one channel/ rear speaker "at a pinch"  

 

You won't hear the difference with 99% of music, some very early Beatles records may sound strange (ie- where the vocals come out of one speaker and the droms, etc out of the other- an early attempt at stereo recorded on 4-track) and possibly some music with sycadelic? bass- panning effects (pink floyd/ some dance music) but that is rare and normally both channels are fed the same bass




#307120 Rca/line Level Converter

Posted by FOCA on 28 November 2013 - 08:41 PM

Thanks for the reply.
I'll go for the non powered one then, does seem the easier to install and the sound quality is never going to be amazing with the ford cassette head unit, but I like analogue sound so I'm keeping it. Just want to be able to turn it up without distorting. :) speaker upgrade to come as well

Oh and does it matter where I put the converter. Is it better near the head unit or can I splice into the rear speakers in the boot? - where the sub will be, so a lot easier.

I would just hook it up to to one of the rear speakers in the boot, that way you are keeping the wiring from the convertor to sub(amp) short

 

As the sub is "mono" or single-channel, you can just use one converter, taken from one channel(side) or rear speaker, this will simplfy installation and may reduse the chance of crasstalk/ eath loops, hum or buzzing

 

interference/ hum/ buzzing can be a problem with these converters if you take the power for the sub(amp) straight from the battery (via an inline fuse) you could fit an on/off switch for the amp near the radio, that way if there is any hum from the sub you could switch it off when you are not listening to music, or even when you are listening the the radio/cass quietly (it would also save electrical power)  

 

if hum/ buzz is a problem you could adjust the settings on the sub amp, or fit a (passive) ground loop isolator between the converter and sub-amp




#307099 Rca/line Level Converter

Posted by FOCA on 28 November 2013 - 07:51 PM

This was going to be my next question on my subwoofer installation thread (unfortunately that was lost in the recent data loss).

 

The idea is to splice into the rear speaker outputs with one of these converters so that I have an rca out for the sub as my 18 year old head unit doesn't have one :), which I've been told is fine to do.

 

Question is will I need to use a powered converter or non powered? as I want the rear speakers to still work (see below if you don't know what I mean)

 

No difference in price, I just want the correct one :)

 

 

Powered - http://www.ebay.co.u...=item2a158d6c7b
 
Non powered - http://www.amazon.co...s=rca converter

 

Any help is appreciated.

You use one of these converters and still have your rear speakers connected

 

you can fit either the powered one or the non powered one - the powered one may work better and have a better quality, but you have the hassle and power drain of connecting it to the power




#307077 Guide: Fitting Egr Blanking Plate 1.6Tdci Engine

Posted by FOCA on 28 November 2013 - 06:28 PM

 

http://www.google.co...=10&tx=71&ty=83

 

What concerns me about this plate is it fits at the exhaust (hot) end and its made of aluminium, which can melt/ has a lower melting piont than steel - i would rather fit a stainless steel one (solid, of course)




#307037 Guide: Fitting Egr Blanking Plate 1.6Tdci Engine

Posted by FOCA on 28 November 2013 - 02:55 PM

 

HEllo Boss,check this picture the plate fits there?

http://www.google.co...=10&tx=71&ty=83

 

http://www.google.co...10&tx=36&ty=122

600+ blanking plates sold by the ebay seller! - not bad (seems its not just us fitting them!)

 

you could definately fit 2 solid blanking plates (one at eack end) and remove the EGR pipe on that design