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FOCA

Member Since 30 Oct 2012
Offline Last Active Today, 07:59 AM
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#410519 Egr Blanking Plate Already Fitted?

Posted by FOCA on 17 September 2014 - 01:48 AM

Did you see the middle of the plate?/ was it solid?  - it could just be a thin, steel  gasket

 

Who knows - one of out members was at Ford and the head mechanic recommended fitting a blanking plate  




#410105 Joke Thread

Posted by FOCA on 15 September 2014 - 10:14 PM

A topical one -

 

 

 

There is only 25-100 years of oil left in the north sea

 

But England only has 5 days worth left!   :lol:




#410050 Mighty Car Mods Black Intercooler Counterargument

Posted by FOCA on 15 September 2014 - 08:48 PM

Both MCM and the youtube reply have errors (and make assumtions)

 

The MCM test is done without being fitted to a car, and not done in "real life" conditions (eg- like with the heat from the engine bay/ radiator, etc, or the  heat from a real turbo etc) - so it does not take important factors into account (its a very simple test)  

 

A regular intercooler on a road car does not have a fan, the radiator fan only comes on at high temperatures, so if the intercooler has no air running through it (when the car is static or moving at very low speed) the black painted intercooler will radiate more efficiently

 

BUT, a black painted intercooler will absorb more heat (heatsoak) from the radiator (because it works both ways)  

 

so the best thing is to have the FRONT of the intercooler painted black, and the back shiny silver - so it radiates heat better when the car is static, but reflects heat off the intercooler from the cars radiator and the underbonnet heat

 

The black front/ silver rear is my idea

 

You could also put extra fans in-between the intercooler and radiator, and move them apart (not my idea- ive seen it on race cars) this would make the airflow through the intercooler and put a phisical (insulating) barrior between the radiator/ intercooler  

 

You could also fit a waterspray to the outside of the intercooler (seen it on a EVO on TOP GEAR years ago- originally used in racing/ rallying) - ive got one on my Mondeo - it really works - (its to do with the latent heat of evaporation and the (exellent heat)absorbency of water ) 

 

The MCM test showed a sight decrease

in efficiency when air was flowing through the radiator (probably due to the insulation effect of the paint) but the effect was only slight,  and as the increase when there was no airflow (when  car was stationary/ not fitted with an intercooler fan) was a significant improvement  

 

A drag racing car has to wait on the line, a race car has to as well, and a road car is often stationary in traffic etc - so its worth painting your intercooler black (or the front of it) if you dont have intercooler fan(s)  




#409344 Rattle Noise On Acceleration.

Posted by FOCA on 13 September 2014 - 07:42 PM

It may be the DMF or it could be an exhaust heat shield  




#409312 K&n Panel Air Filter

Posted by FOCA on 13 September 2014 - 07:01 PM

Ive done a lot of research on this - ti took a lot of time/ effort to wade throgh all the BS

 

It depends on the car -

 

On some it made no difference at all

 

On some (NA) no difference in power but a slight increase in throttle response

 

On some (NA) there was a slight increase in power at very high revs (typically 1-3Hp)

 

On some turbo engines,lag is reduced a bit from low revs and throttle response improved, but no or very slight increase in power - this is typical (what you might expect) from most turbo-diesels

 

On some cars/ engines new stock/ K&N (or any other make) or no filter at all makes no difference, this is because other parts of the intake/ inducion system are more restrictive than the filter element  

 

In general you can expect no difference or only a slight difference in power compared to a fresh stock filter - typical independant measured gains are 1-2Hp, you need 10% for a noticable difference in power, though you might notice better throttle response/ reduced lag - or more noise

 

Often, a "sports" replacement filter replaces a dirty, clogged stock filter so the noticed improvement is due to that - like for like / new for new is a fair comparison

 

K&Ns are oild cotton filters (like green cotton) they allow small dust particles in when they are new (which can cause bore wear), and need to build up a layer of dust to start filtering properly - stock filters filter out small dust particles, straight from new

 

a stock filter does not last as long as a K&N (or similar) but a stock patterrn filter costs £5 and a K&N £30 - 6 times as much

 

I run a stock (paper) filter on my car - (369Nm - independant dyno stock is 209ft-lbs, off the top of my head) - i need to because the CAIS goes into the wing and i tend to pick up road dust from the wheel - the paper filter filters this out and the K&N would not - a K&N would ruin the engine - if i re-located the intake i might consider it, though - who knows - i might need that extra 2Hp

 

Better get yourself a remap - 9-times out of 10 will make a bigger difference and is probably more cost-effective/ "bang-per-buck"       




#409293 More Power

Posted by FOCA on 13 September 2014 - 06:24 PM

Hey peeps,

I have a new shape ford focus 1.6 petrol titanium. Is there any way to get more power out of it with out doing and drastic changes to engine?

Cheers

Chris


Sent from my iPhone using Ford OC mobile app

No




#409146 My Ford Focus Mk2 Tdci

Posted by FOCA on 13 September 2014 - 01:18 AM

Finally got a engine cover at long last, now what olor should it go hmm, also something i decided to try out, and the new dials which im going to have to go ford to code them

Your open cone filter will lose power,  as it draws warm/ hot underbonnet air 

 

your diesel has a sealed, unvented bonnet, and the engine bay gets hot, a cone filter may be ok with a vented bonnet and a cool air feed (even with that its usually not as effective as a proper encapsulated CAIS or even the stock air intake) 

 

its why panel filters are recommended above cone filters, in this day and age

 

Cooler air = higher density = more oxegen per cc = more power / warmer air = lower density = less oxegen per cc = less power

 

Its the reason for intercoolers and cool air intakes  

 

Raplacing the K&N with a stock airbox should increase power (engine should pull better, right through the range)  




#408646 Engine Swap Diesel To Petrol

Posted by FOCA on 11 September 2014 - 05:58 PM

Ive had someone tell me that changing the turbo and diesel pump off a mondeo ST would gove me a substantial increase in power but how easy would it be


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Who told you that? was it a mate of kermit and miss piggy :lol:

 

I wont even bother explaining (the several reasons) how that won't work

 

My advice -  get the car serviced, get your Bluefin remap get a panel filter, possibly some exhaust upgrades - there are other things you can do, but they are not going to make a lot of difference and/ or get expensive or require skill/ experience  

 

 

Here are some -

 

Decat

 

heatwrapping the decat/ downpipe

 

gas-flowing the downpipe

 

back-box delete

 

larger diameter exhaust with straight-through silencer

 

resonator bypass

 

gas-flow the airbox

 

fit/ build a large diameter CAIS

 

larger FMIC (that fits the boost hoses/ fits the space) with waterspray

 

larger diameter boost hoses

 

shorter boost hoses/ redesign

 

EGR delete

 

replace the inefficient (soaks up power) waterpump with an electric one

 

lighten the car - fit the lightest wheels you can find, reduce weight / fit lighter parts eg battery etc

 

fit a solid flywheel carbon fibre/ kevlar clutch/ uprated (to handle the extra power/ torque )  

 

fit a short-shifter (or modify the original one)

 

remove the AC (wastes power, adds weight)

 

 

These are some of the things ive done on my car - some of these things make a big difference, some just small - but they add up  




#407960 Stopping Distances?

Posted by FOCA on 09 September 2014 - 10:39 PM

The surface temperature and conditions have a greater influence on stopping distances, along with the tyre condition, pressure, make and model  

 

Temperatue has a big effect - with many tyres, the grip is greatly reduced at under 7 degrees C

 

Road camber, condition of the road surface (eg, contaminated with oil, stones etc) or if the surface is bumpy, roundabouts can often get "polished" - the very grippy stuff they put on accident black spots/ some juctions is called "shellgrip"  

 

obvoiusly wet weather, slush or snow has a big effect in grip - but the best tyre for a hot sunny day may not be the best one for a cool, rainy autumn night - its a compromise

 

On a bumpy road worn shock absorbers can increase stopping distances

 

 

the bigger discs may reduce fade from high speeds (100+) but may not make any difference stopping from 30, they may even be detrimental, and imbalance the car (you might have to get the entire, all-round  ST setup)

 

A magazine tested a Motorcycle against a 911 turbo (years ago) and the 911 had half the stoppingn distances than those shown in the highway code - but as above - difficult to get consistant/ comparable  results when even temperature makes such a big difference, never mind road grippyness and other factors 

 

 A brand new set of the best "A" rated tyres will probably make a bigger difference than a brake upgrade, in my opinion - like goodyear eagle F1s    




#407946 Focus Hesitation And Dirty Egr

Posted by FOCA on 09 September 2014 - 09:49 PM

after i blanked it there was still hesitation and i believe the egr
can be stuck in the open position by the carbon build up, so i took out
the blank and then cleaned the egr. i have refitted the blank. the egr
is the work of satan on a diesel car, just look at the carbon build up
on the blanking plate in just 3 weeks.

can anyone verify...i
couldnt undo the nuts on the egr so i fitted the plate to the other end
of the pipe on the manifold, is it ok to put it here, does it do the
same job?

Blanking the EGR only fixes / eliminates the hesitation caused by the EGR - not the hesitation from other reasons  

 

Thing about the amount of carbon the EGR has dumped into the engine (including the inlet manifold) in 10 years (the age of the car) if the plate looks like that after 3 weeks!

 

The inlet manifold must be clogged up by now (chokeing the engine) this must be taken off and cleaned properly (with petrol, then with a high-power steam jetwash - EGR cleaner etc is a waste of time / money

 

As Ian has said, no point in cleaning the EGR (apart from the gasket faces) as nothing will flow anyway once a solid EGR blanking plate is fitted  

 

The plate can be fitted in various locations along the EGR pipe (depends on the car/ engine/ design) it may make subtle changes to the recponse - sometimes, the EGR gubbins can be completely removed and two solid plates fitted - one on the exhaust side and one n the inlet -

 

There are advantages in doing this - the energy from the exhaust to the turbo (turbine) has a shorter path,(reduced volume to travel) less heat energy is lost - more goes to spin up the turbo (reducing lag a little)  

 

the inlet (around the EGR valve) stays cooler, making a denser charge - increasing power a little

 

so the bits that need to stay hot stay hotter and the bits that need to stay cool are cooler and the turbo has a shorter path - i have done this on my car - its not a massive difference, but it is a noticable improvement

 

Its a bit of an art putting a single EGR blank in the right place - if its too close to the exhaust it has to take a lot of heat, if its the "wrong" side of the EGR cooler the engine can take longer to warm up, but generally, anywhere between the cooler and the vave is usually ok. (if not "optimum")   




#407085 Mark Iv Mondeo, Things To Watch Out For?

Posted by FOCA on 08 September 2014 - 04:35 AM

EGR valve leaking , DPF clogging up/ forced regen, (especially when used for short trips/ driven sedately) oil being contaminated and the level going up etc , DMF breaking up over time, eventually siezing starter , VNT mech sticking (due the extra carbon the EGR valve injects) the inlet manifold getting contaminated with carbon and eventually choking up -  

 

thats the usual (modern) diesel problems (typical of high-milage diesels of all marques) the engine is a PSA - co-designed/ built by Ford, Peugeot and Citroen, and used in many different cars

 

exessive/ uneven tyre wear/ having to replace tyres frequently on some cars

 

The 163 can be a bit sluggish off the line/ needs revved in the lower gears to "shift", ("gutless" is mabee going too far) and can have hesitation / flat spots at low revs (i blame the EGR) - this is what early cars were like but later ones may be improved




#406933 Hi All, New Mondeo Owner('s Husband)

Posted by FOCA on 07 September 2014 - 07:39 PM

Nice one - yes, its a lot of car for the money




#406659 Focus Mk1 2001 1.8Tddi, Can You Make It Sound Sporty

Posted by FOCA on 07 September 2014 - 12:34 AM

Here is my opinion, for what its worth -

 

There is no way you can make a low-revving 4-cylinder diesel sound "sporty"

 

I have a 2.0L Mondeo diesel, it has a (things that make a difference to the sound-) gas-flowed airbox (underbonnet cone filters (k&ns) draw warm air/ loose power especially on a turbo-diesel) 90mm CAIS, fixed-vane turbo with wastegate, 2- stage drift racing microprossesor controlled adjustable boost controller with 100psi solenoid, resonator bypass, drag racing lightweight intercooler with waterspray, total EGR delete with shorter hoses,, decat, gas-flowed downpipe, both heatwrapped, back- box delete but straight-through mid-box retained, shorter and straighter (2-1/4") exhaust

 

in the summer i take the undertray and underbonnet insulation off, ive just put them back on and its noticably quieter

 

To give you an idea how quick the car is, i was coming home the other day, there was an st225 going the same way, i caught up to it and it "booted" it, - i kept up with it / sat behind it (as it was accelerating) untill it came across another car when i overtook both cars, (i wasnt racing, i was just hungry and wanted my dinner/ legak speeds, of course! :lol: ) the Mondeo diesel and the st225 seemed to have identical acceleration - the thing is my car is not running right, i have a bit of a boost leak and i have the boost controller disabled, and am down on power, ive not bothered sorting it as i have a new inlet manifold and boost hoses to fit

 

I will get to the point -

 

when i start the car in the morning (from cold) it sounds like a tractor, or a loud taxi, as it warms up and i drive it normally, it sonds like a big van or truck, (not "sporting") - only when accelerating flat out does it have a deep roar (mainly from induction, but a bit from the exhaust)

 

But it still does not sound even as good as a small engined petrol car (even a corsa)

 

Ive even quietend it down a bit (because it just sounds stupid/ draws attention to the car)

 

you can make it sound better but i dont think you can really get a diesel to sound as good as a petrol- engined car - sorry           




#406651 Tuning On A Tight Budget

Posted by FOCA on 06 September 2014 - 11:56 PM

Tuning boxes are not always a poor mans remap -

 

They have advantages over regulat remaps -

 

For example, they can be easily removed, and are usually untraceable so are popular with lease/ company cars etc, or if the car is under warrantee - the tuning box cannot be ereased via a firmware update (like a regular  remap can)

 

The ease of removal can be useful for other reasons, like if you have to drive in the middle of winter on icy, snowy unsalted roads, or you want to reduce the power to teach someone to drive, or put the car in for a service, valet etc, or lend the car to the wife, etc

 

A regular remap is stuck on the car, cannot be easily removed, and has no resale value, a tuning box can be resold, so althoug a high-end tuning box may be expensive (approx £250-£400) they have a resale value, so in reality are a better investment

 

A proper high-end tuning box is a serious alternative to a remap, they may have digital microprocessors, multiple cannels and multi-maps, some are fully configurable, some have direct microprossesor control over boost pressure

 

Comparing a £7 ebay "resistor special" tuning box (connects to the cars IAT to fool the ECU into thinking the car is colder, thus sqirting more fuel in) to a £400 high end tuning box is like comparing a red Corsa to a red Ferrari (eg tuning boxes are rubbish because my mate bought one off ebay for £7 and it was crap/ all red cars are crap- ridiculus - right? but tuning boxes get a bad rep because of the cheapo fake boxes)

 

I had a DTUK box (sold for £400, but now sells for about £320) fitted to my Mondeo diesel, it made a big difference to the power/ torque, it was custom modified with a remote adjust (so i could turn it up/ down easily/ quickly) this was carefully tested/ set for maximum acceleration (alongside other mods)

 

With the tuning box/ other mods the car was very fast and had incredible torque from very low revs, it would pull away easily in 2nd, and junctions etc that you would expect to take in 2nd, you could take in 3rd, floor it in almost any gear, the car would leap forward (even from low revs)

 

I reconed i could get a bit more out of a remap so ordered a Superchips Bluefin, after fitting it i found the engine had more topend power/ revs but a lot less bottom end grunt than the tuning box, Superchips made a revised map for me, it was a bit better but still not as much grunt as the tuning box, i talked to them and they revised the map for a second time, to get the optimum grunt/ and to match the other modifications (drag racing intercooler with waterspray, 100psi 2 stage digital boost controller, straight through 2-1/4" exhaust etc )  - even then the Bluefin still did not have quite as much low-down grunt as the tuning box

 

the top end power is very good though and the car "flies" - i dont mean really flies

 

i can run the tuning box and blufin remap together for track days, drag racing dyno shootouts etc  but im runni9ng it with just the Bluefin so i dont push the injectors/ turbo tioo much untill i get a spare engine so i can really "push" it i need to get an ATB/LSD for drag racing and i have to live in the real world like getting the car MOTd and i have other plans too

 

Nothing wrong with a good tuning box and i would recommend one (DTUK, roverron, other quality ones etc etc)        




#405928 Engine Swap Diesel To Petrol

Posted by FOCA on 05 September 2014 - 02:40 PM

Im just wanting a littl more power trying to explore ways of making the most out of my car


Sent from my iPhone using Ford OC

The best, simplest and most cost-effective way of increasing your power/ torque (on a turbo car) is to remap the engine, this can "transform" the way the car drives, turning an underpowered car that is a chore to drive into a car that is a pleasure to drive  

 

often, on a turbo diesel, the mpg is the same or improved, even with the extra performance  

 

the can order a bluefin (Superchips remap in a handset) yourself and install it in 15 mins, you dont even have to open the bonnet  

 

the remapped TDCI (assuming it is a 1.8L, as you dont say (what a surprize)) should outperform a 1.8 petrol in the midrange, in the higher gears, out of corners etc top gear roll ons, overtaking etc

 

the Bluefin claims to increase the power from 100 to 131Hp, and the torque from 240 to 306Nm (the 1.8 petrol only has 115PS, and probably a lot less torque)

 

Superchips (the company, Bluefin is the product) works with insurance companies and is recognized as a legit mod, the insurance may not be much more -

 

if you cant afford to legitimately insure a blufin/remap, an engine  swop would be even more out of reach to insure or you could have to run illegally/ effectively uninsured,  an ST would be expensive to run/ insure too