Jump to content


FOCA

Member Since 30 Oct 2012
Offline Last Active Jan 27 2015 11:48 PM
*****

#432735 Remapping My Slow Focus!?!

Posted by FOCA on 29 November 2014 - 03:09 PM

Non- turbo petrol engined cars are not worth remapping - but turbo ones are

 

you need at least a 10% increase to notice any improvement in power - so 7hp would not even be noticed, so agreed - not worth it for £250

 

replacing injectors are expensive and not really a conventional tuning path

 

just buy a quicker car and/ or one with more tuning potential




#432681 Turbo Boost Gauge And Exhaust

Posted by FOCA on 29 November 2014 - 12:06 PM

A less restrictive exhaust will help the turbo spool up quicker and help the engine breathe better, the main restrictions are in the back-box, the DPF and the cat, a dual outlet adds weight and the Y , its probably not worth going over 2-1/2" - often 2-1/4" works better, and is lighter - the restriction of the turbine and manifold is usually sufficient for engine back-pressure,, the less restiction past the turbine the better, so the shorter, straighter the better (taking the previosly mentioned diameter into account) a dragster may have a very short pipe coming straight out of the turbine outlet, for example - much of this applies to both turbopetrol cars and turbo-diesel as well

 

Replacement panel filters are reconed to be better than open underbonnet cone filters as the cone filter can draw warm air, loosing power, , in some cases, the engine pulls a bit better before the turbo spools, and/ or the engine picks up better but the peak power is the same (turbo) and in others, there is a slight improvement at high revs (depends on the car/ engine) in the (rare, nowadays) cases where there is a power increase, it is typically 1 to 2 horepower, on most modern cars with filters with a large surface area, there is no difference, as the K&N panel filter may not add any more power at all if the filter element is not the most restrictive part of the induction system

 

unfortunately K&N filters do not filter as well as stock filters, allowing small particles of dust through that stock ones do not, strangely, once a layer of dust builds up on the K&N, it filters better, owners often notice an improvement as the filter the new filter replaces is old, and clogged, on avarage a K&N can cost 6 times what a stock pattern one costs (depends on car)

 

this is based on years of experience of tuning NA and turbo cars petrol and diesel, and much research, from an engineering/ knowlegeable perspective (there is a lot of BS/ misinformation on the web)

 

really your best bet is a remap (including bluefin) or a (high end) tuning box -, along with regular servicing, this will get a significant, noticable power/ torque gain (bluefin claim 176hp) a DPF delete and straight through rear box may see another 6-10 hp on top of that and with a K&N and solid EGR plate, might approach 190HP, not bad for that weight of car and with the torque, not really that far off an ST

 

Look at lennys build thread ,  or  you could just get a regular gauge pod or pillar pod and stick a diesel turbo gauge in it

 

If you want to make an ST rep better to keep the exhaust/ induction quiet, as it will just only sound like a tractor, and with a louder exhaust, a louder tractor, the diesel will never sound like a petrol ST -

 

If you want something that looks, goes and sounds like an ST, get an ST




#432648 Economy

Posted by FOCA on 29 November 2014 - 04:14 AM

The price of fuel goes up and has come down recently - so you should put how far you get on the amount of fuel not the cost - eg my dad used to go 100 miles on a tenner etc/ i pay 99p a litre for SVO  - etc etc others may pay £1.40 so how far you go on £25 is meaningless unless you pay the same amount for fuel/ the cost has not changed over time     




#432646 Is The Fiesta A Bad Tow Car?

Posted by FOCA on 29 November 2014 - 03:22 AM

Agreed, the NA 1.25 is already underpowered without the extra weight of the caravan,("gutless" mid-range flatspot, won't rev, overgeared) its going to really struggle up hills, it may be legal to tow "x" amount of weight but it does not mean it is practical, the ecoboost may have a similar "on paper" towing capacity, but the extra low-down/ greater torque & power and better power delivery will make it a far better proposition on the road

 

Personally i would use a much heavier car (eg Mondeo class) with a powerful diesel engine, then you can tow a larger, heavier roomier van (probably be cheaper/ easier to obtain than a more specialized "micro" caravan)

 

Alternatively you could look at a collapsable trailer caravan thingy (less drag and lower wieght but folds up to a bigger size)

 

or invest in a motorhome - may not cost a lot more than a micro caravan

 




#421313 Does Driving In Limp Mode Damage The Engine?

Posted by FOCA on 21 October 2014 - 07:36 AM

My car is stuck in Limp mode and I am at a loss as to why. Gonna have to take it to a dealers for a diagnostic but just wanted to check if I'm damaging the car still driving it? Cheers.

A dealer will charge you far too much for a diagnostic when you can buy a code reader for a fraction of that cost (that you can use again and again)

 

Limp mode is short for "limp home mode" - it is a mode the car goes into in an emergency so you can "limp home" - its not really meant to be run like that permenantly - its difficult to say if running it like that does any permenant damage or not - it may depend what the actual problem is / one fault may have "knock on effects" / cause other faults on a short or long term basis




#420592 "taking Oval To Blue Horizon" Lenny's Build Thread 2010-2015

Posted by FOCA on 18 October 2014 - 10:59 PM

Thanks mate,
Looking forward to it,

Quick question for you mate,
I dowload and print the manual for the pioneer headunit,
It says about a special microphone Pioneer CD-MC20
http://www.ebay.co.u...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
used to calibrate the equaliser settings in the sound system,
Did you hear anything about this before?
I plan to purchase one of those calibration microphones, i can loan you the calibration microphone after ive used it should hold calibration settings unless battery changed or disconnected.
Says you plug it in stereo then attach it to drivers head rest,
Turn amplifier knobs up full as the stereo will see full potential as the maximum parimeter on the equaliser band and self adjust settings accordingly after calibration alowing full control from the headunit.
Press button on stereo then youve got 10 seconds to get out,
Calibration process takes 10 minutes,

IMG_20141018_193808_zpsg2a1hmpr.jpg

IMG_20141018_185519_zps09umnmvg.jpg
IMG_20141018_185529_zpswl1ssria.jpg

There are similar things available for setting up recording studios and has "filtered down" to PA systems, venues, thearters etc  i have some special software designed for recording studio control rooms/ nerfield monitors, it can even give a plot of the room charecteristricts, showing problems like standing waves etc -  ive got an omnidirectional electrostatic mic that was designed for measurment that i use fior recording (no use to you as its not calibrated to your head unit and its a balanced xlr  socket ) 

 

Looks like a simple dynamic mic probably omni-directional, (the eq will be calibrated/ compensated fo that mic) the reason it is put on the drivers headrest is so that the eq is adjusted for that position, it will compensate for "room" acoustics as well as the deficencies/ tonal balance of the speakers - if you change anything like a speaker it would need to be re-done - it will set it for a "natural" balance which may not be to your listening taste but might give you a good starting point or improve sound if your settings are out a fair bit

 

the ones for home cinema may be for setting the correct rear speaker delay on surroound-sound systems, depending on your listening position - which is a different thing      




#420080 Best / Easiest Engine Upgrade Escort Mk6

Posted by FOCA on 17 October 2014 - 02:39 AM

Nice one!- you should do a build thread (there is a section for that)




#417329 1.0 Eco Boost Or 1.6

Posted by FOCA on 07 October 2014 - 11:18 PM

Like we're going to get close to the max speed without being stupid.

At normal everyday driving speeds I think the 1.0 125 feels quicker.

Yes, agreed, the 130 is quicker to 60

 

Ecoboosr 1.0L turbo =130Ps/ 1.6 NA = 118ps , the ecoboost is lighter (the engine is so light it makes the overall car noticably lighter) has a fair bit more torque, and has a better power/ torque curve )




#417313 P0428 Dtc After Dpf Removal

Posted by FOCA on 07 October 2014 - 10:23 PM

 

Auto
Express investigated 10 DPF removal companies, with most not informing
them that their modification will affect the performance of their car,
and thus affect their insurance policy.


The Association of British Insurers told the magazine that motorists
should “tell their insurer about any modification”, with one saying it
would decline to cover cars with their DPF removed due to the ECU
needing reprogramming after removal.edit churchill direct line and underwriters have also refused to insure cars


Most garages wrongly stated that it wasn’t essential to tell
insurance companies as the modification is difficult to detect, and
wouldn’t contravene the Road Vehicles (Construction and Use) Regulation
61A (using a modified car on the road which no longer meets the
emissions standards applied to it when new).


With the MOT not fully enforcing these regulations, vehicles passing the basic diesel smoke opacity inspection will still pass.

- See more at: http://www.eurocats....h.2aZKypdN.dpuf

http://www.eurocats....date-insurance/

 

the issue is that people on here are mis informing others on having the dpf removed giving them little facts as to the legality etc we cant give out radio codes but we can advise others to just whip out there dpf without saying its illegal as the poster stated he was not aware thats my issue as for proof email vosa youreself dont take my word for it in germany for years they use existing equipment plug it into the obd port and do a test takes 2 minutes costs no more money.it should be a sticky on the forum with all the relevant info and left to the person to decide on their own if its right ,no ones failed the test well they have im afraid my mate wont fail it if it looks like its their but he failed one for the weld showing and being poorly done and had to put it on the system the guy had it rewelded and you couldnt tell but vosas online database had it on record that it was suspected of being missing the owner had to pay to prove it was their which it wasnt so no mot could be given in the end he put an aftermarket dpf on etc and passed the test not all companies do a good job

 

as for the fault above We reprogram the engine's ECU, switching off all the DPF functions.
The car now no longer has a filter and the engine management is not
looking to regenerate it. "Problem Solved"

In most cases that's the end but occasionally
if there has been a mechanical or electronic fault with a component on
the engine such as the EGR valve this would need to be rectified

 

if the above was done there may be an issue as you say with a broken sensor wire

 

 

 the latest memo from simon birkett

CAL director Simon Birkett said that vehicles that have had their
filters stripped out are worsening air quality, and that if they are not
subjected to existing MOT emissions tests, or even stricter ones under
the EU proposals

 

“Tens of thousands of UK motorists are illegally driving diesel vehicles
without the filters, and face losing their car insurance and risk being
found guilty of fraud because of this ( if the customer sell the vehicle on and does not inform the new owner are they committing fraud) many without realising it.

 

 Department of transport speach 2014

 

A DfT spokesman said: “We are committed to lowering emissions from
vehicles, which is why in European Union negotiations we are supporting
an approach designed to improve emissions testing through the use of the vehicles on board diagnostics or even tail pipe emission tests.

 

From the association of motor repairers uk newsletter

 

It is the responsibility of the vehicle owner to
ensure that their vehicle is legal to drive and roadworthy, and to
declare it as such when applying for or renewing insurance.  Applying
for or renewing insurance knowing that the vehicle is illegal or
unroadworthy, would amount to misrepresentation and potential fraud

Terms and conditions of motor insurance policies normally specify that
the vehicle must be registered in the UK (or in the process of being
registered), and that the vehicle is roadworthy.  No
insurance would be offered or renewed if the owner declared to the
insurer that the vehicle was illegal to drive/unroadworthy.

Changes in the UK MOT rules from March 2014 also include checks on
the presence of the DPF Filter, so if it has been removed then your car
will fail its MOT inspection. Because this is currently only a visual
check, there are some companies who still continue to offer DPF Removal /
DPF Delete services which involve opening up the DPF, knocking out the
insides, rewelding and refitting, essentially leaving the original case
intact and still in its original place in an attempt to fool the MOT
visual check.


However, it is only a matter of time before the current MOT test
changes once again, to include a more advance method of checking, which
is already in place across parts of Europe and involves plugging a
diagnostic system into the car computer during the MOT test, and
physically checking that the DPF is present and working. Should the test
detect a problem, then the car will fail.

 

 

Auto
Express investigated 10 DPF removal companies, with most not informing
them that their modification will affect the performance of their car,
and thus affect their insurance policy.


The Association of British Insurers told the magazine that motorists
should “tell their insurer about any modification”, with one saying it
would decline to cover cars with their DPF removed due to the ECU
needing reprogramming after removal.


Most garages wrongly stated that it wasn’t essential to tell
insurance companies as the modification is difficult to detect, and
wouldn’t contravene the Road Vehicles (Construction and Use) Regulation
61A (using a modified car on the road which no longer meets the
emissions standards applied to it when new).


With the MOT not fully enforcing these regulations, vehicles passing the basic diesel smoke opacity inspection will still pass.

- See more at: http://www.eurocats....h.2aZKypdN.dpuf

Auto
Express investigated 10 DPF removal companies, with most not informing
them that their modification will affect the performance of their car,
and thus affect their insurance policy.


The Association of British Insurers told the magazine that motorists
should “tell their insurer about any modification”, with one saying it
would decline to cover cars with their DPF removed due to the ECU
needing reprogramming after removal.


Most garages wrongly stated that it wasn’t essential to tell
insurance companies as the modification is difficult to detect, and
wouldn’t contravene the Road Vehicles (Construction and Use) Regulation
61A (using a modified car on the road which no longer meets the
emissions standards applied to it when new).


With the MOT not fully enforcing these regulations, vehicles passing the basic diesel smoke opacity inspection will still pass.

- See more at: http://www.eurocats....h.2aZKypdN.dpuf

 

It is highly debateable whether DPFs really help emmisions, during the lifetime of the car (taking into account the extra fuel the DPF equipped car burns, in normal use, and even more during regens, and more still when the DPF is near the end of its life-cycle, then there is the manufacture of the DPF, and its carbon footprint and the enviromental impact of making several during the cars lifetime, then there are the emmisions when the DPF is old  

 

Strangely, a properly set up car with a DPF delete and a solid EGR late seems to smoke a lot less (as well as have a better MPG - cars with a better MPG have less enviromental impact , due to the resources/ energy pollotion required to dig (finite) fossil fuels out iof the ground/ sea, refine & transport it etc)

 

Another thing car/ DPF manufacturers don't want you to know is - its the tiny particles that are most harmful to peoples lungs, the particles that the  DPFs cannot filter (they just filter out the larger particles that are less harmful) in fact, the percentage increase of smaller (more harmful) particles is increased with a DPF fitted

 

With a DPF fitted, the particles tend to build up on the surface of the DPF over time then get "blown off" when the car is "booted" concentrating the pollution in certain locations (especially with a lot of traffic/ where cars accelerate) this can make these arease worse than if the cars did not have DPFs fitted (the pollution would be spread out over a longer period probably where it is less harmful )

 

The carbon footprint/ enviromental impact of the car has to be examined during its lifetime - not just sticking a plaster over a wound - it just does not work

 

For example, a diesel engine with no DPF, no EGR, but with an emmisions// sensor on the  exhaust that monitors the  particulate output and adjusts the fuelling to compensate (keeping the emmisions low) would be a lot more efficient (solution is better than cure/ "belt and braces") 

 

Its up to the individual car owner to decide whether to delete their DPF or not  




#417266 1.0 Eco Boost Or 1.6

Posted by FOCA on 07 October 2014 - 08:47 PM

Isn't the 1.0 125ps version as standard quicker than the old 1.6?

Yes - and lets not forget the extra 2mph top speed




#417248 Engine Cutting Out Whilst Driving.

Posted by FOCA on 07 October 2014 - 08:24 PM

An LX? (trim level) can you remember what was written on the pump when you last filled up (eg petrol or diesel? :lol: ) letting us know engine capacity would be good too, as these can have completely different engines, depending on the CCs




#416220 Air Intake Pipe Advice!!!

Posted by FOCA on 04 October 2014 - 03:24 PM

 

 

is there any way we could test the throttle pedal to eliminate it as a suspect?

Yes, you could disconnect it and put a multimeter on it (set on resistance/ ohms) then move the throttle in its range and see if there are any jumps or "dropouts" (sudden loss of continuity) - it should have a smooth progression of resistance in its range/ travel  

 

a Faulty/ intermitant fault TPS (throttle position sensor) could cause "kangaroo-ing" (because the ECU "thinks" you are pumping the throttle from the signal it recieves when it is actually a steady throttle opening

 

OP-

Overfuelling/ smell of petrol -  if one or more of the plugs is not firing (constantly or intermittantly)/ eg missing or running on 3 -  it can send unburnt fuel through the non-firing cylinder through the cat and out of the exhaust

 

Checked plugs yet?     




#415940 Air Intake Pipe Advice!!!

Posted by FOCA on 03 October 2014 - 12:05 PM

Ok, i filled up the other night with shell v power, the car has run alot better and smoother until last night.

 

This has always happened on my car, i was going round a large roundabout near where i live... i was going round in second gear around 20mph, then the car stated to buck and kangaroo, hold back and jolt again... i am only on about 10/15% throttle but i get these surges only when i go round roundabout in a high gear 2nd/3rd revs probably just under 3k and when i go up a still hill at low speed in 2nd gear the car bucks and holds back 3/4 times.

 

Then since that the car started to run a little bit rough again.

 

Up to that point its been lovely and smooth driving it on motorways and round town but again after last night started to run rough only after the roundabout issue, up to that point it was smooth. wierd.

 

I then plugged in my obd2 scanner for live data off my app and replicated this, and when it does this kangarooing around long tight cornering, the tps sensor readings keep jittering on my app. when i drive normal the scale doesnt fluctuate but i noticed that when the car surges and holds back, the tps readings go up and down and jittery. Even though my foot is held still on the throttle. Is there a sensor on the throttle pedal or the tps thingy again. Though im starting to think it could be fuel pump related even though the car has only done 50k

 

Any fresh ideas on this

Have you checked the plugs? - i cant see any pictures of them on this thread, did you put it on another thread?, have you done what was suggested in post #18?   

 

Of couse, the throttle pedal  is not like a traditional throttle, but a potentiometer (like a variabale resistor, like the volume control in a stereo or the mouse on a computer) this gives signals to the ECU 




#415156 Air Intake Pipe Advice!!!

Posted by FOCA on 30 September 2014 - 09:02 PM

 

 

I had this issue recently, when I put my foot to the floor there was no bite, and a large fizzing sound. (i now know that this is air)

The air was escaping from the two rubber air intakes at the front of the engine which were split at the back. 

 

Ford wanted £50 EACH! and they were Ford only parts. I got some radiator hose the same diameter (59mm?) which was about £9 from a local Hydraulics place, cut to size with a stanley, clamped on with jubilees and bobs your uncle. 

 

NB shortly after the 90 degree bend further on in the line also split, so replaced that with a 90 degree silicone bend on ebay, which was about £12. 

Unfortunately this has absolutely nothing to do with the OPs problem, you did not have the same issue as the OP (original poster)  

 

You have a turbo car, the OPs is NA (naturally asperated/ non-turbo)  

 

An NA engine will draw air into leaks, not blow it out like a turbo engine would

 

Apart from the fact that yours is a completely different engine, and is a diesel, not a petrol like the OPs




#414296 Air Intake Pipe Advice!!!

Posted by FOCA on 28 September 2014 - 01:15 PM

The rotten egg smell is the cat (catalytic converter)

 

Dont assume its not the coil packs/plugs/ leads even if they were changed, if the coil packs were changed and then the engine run with old plugs or leads, or if the plug(s) gap was too wide, that could "take out" (damage) the coil packs

 

We have yet to confirm the nature of the fault, if the engine is missing badly (like it was running on 3 cylinders) or it is just a mid-range flat spot

 

Take the (spark) plugs out and examine the tips, do they all look the same? post a picture of them (the tips, looking into the "guts" of them)

 

when the engine is running rough, disconnect the leads in turn when the engine is ticking over, the engine note should change or the engine shouls stall, if nothing happens when you disconnect a lead, that may be the one that is not getting a spark

 

Fit new plugs (again) this time "gap" tnen down to 0.8mm, this way, the spark will occur where it should, at the gap, not elsewhere like the leads or even inside the coil packs

 

Some posters may be very knowlegable, with a great deal of experience in engines/ cars, others may be regurgitating stuff they read on google/ other forums, it can be hard for the layman to tell the difference, but it pays to pay attention to the advice that you get on the forum, even if its from a regular owner (not a mecacanic/ non technical) especially if they have owned the same car, as they may have invaluable advice

 

Its esay to get "carried away" looking for the fault - it may be something simple/ basic that you have overlooked

 

Hopefully you get it sorted out before replacing every component