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FOCA

Member Since 30 Oct 2012
Offline Last Active Today, 05:56 AM
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#421313 Does Driving In Limp Mode Damage The Engine?

Posted by FOCA on 21 October 2014 - 07:36 AM

My car is stuck in Limp mode and I am at a loss as to why. Gonna have to take it to a dealers for a diagnostic but just wanted to check if I'm damaging the car still driving it? Cheers.

A dealer will charge you far too much for a diagnostic when you can buy a code reader for a fraction of that cost (that you can use again and again)

 

Limp mode is short for "limp home mode" - it is a mode the car goes into in an emergency so you can "limp home" - its not really meant to be run like that permenantly - its difficult to say if running it like that does any permenant damage or not - it may depend what the actual problem is / one fault may have "knock on effects" / cause other faults on a short or long term basis




#420592 "taking Oval To Blue Horizon" Lenny's Build Thread 2010-2015

Posted by FOCA on 18 October 2014 - 10:59 PM

Thanks mate,
Looking forward to it,

Quick question for you mate,
I dowload and print the manual for the pioneer headunit,
It says about a special microphone Pioneer CD-MC20
http://www.ebay.co.u...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
used to calibrate the equaliser settings in the sound system,
Did you hear anything about this before?
I plan to purchase one of those calibration microphones, i can loan you the calibration microphone after ive used it should hold calibration settings unless battery changed or disconnected.
Says you plug it in stereo then attach it to drivers head rest,
Turn amplifier knobs up full as the stereo will see full potential as the maximum parimeter on the equaliser band and self adjust settings accordingly after calibration alowing full control from the headunit.
Press button on stereo then youve got 10 seconds to get out,
Calibration process takes 10 minutes,

IMG_20141018_193808_zpsg2a1hmpr.jpg

IMG_20141018_185519_zps09umnmvg.jpg
IMG_20141018_185529_zpswl1ssria.jpg

There are similar things available for setting up recording studios and has "filtered down" to PA systems, venues, thearters etc  i have some special software designed for recording studio control rooms/ nerfield monitors, it can even give a plot of the room charecteristricts, showing problems like standing waves etc -  ive got an omnidirectional electrostatic mic that was designed for measurment that i use fior recording (no use to you as its not calibrated to your head unit and its a balanced xlr  socket ) 

 

Looks like a simple dynamic mic probably omni-directional, (the eq will be calibrated/ compensated fo that mic) the reason it is put on the drivers headrest is so that the eq is adjusted for that position, it will compensate for "room" acoustics as well as the deficencies/ tonal balance of the speakers - if you change anything like a speaker it would need to be re-done - it will set it for a "natural" balance which may not be to your listening taste but might give you a good starting point or improve sound if your settings are out a fair bit

 

the ones for home cinema may be for setting the correct rear speaker delay on surroound-sound systems, depending on your listening position - which is a different thing      




#420080 Best / Easiest Engine Upgrade Escort Mk6

Posted by FOCA on 17 October 2014 - 02:39 AM

Nice one!- you should do a build thread (there is a section for that)




#417329 1.0 Eco Boost Or 1.6

Posted by FOCA on 07 October 2014 - 11:18 PM

Like we're going to get close to the max speed without being stupid.

At normal everyday driving speeds I think the 1.0 125 feels quicker.

Yes, agreed, the 130 is quicker to 60

 

Ecoboosr 1.0L turbo =130Ps/ 1.6 NA = 118ps , the ecoboost is lighter (the engine is so light it makes the overall car noticably lighter) has a fair bit more torque, and has a better power/ torque curve )




#417313 P0428 Dtc After Dpf Removal

Posted by FOCA on 07 October 2014 - 10:23 PM

 

Auto
Express investigated 10 DPF removal companies, with most not informing
them that their modification will affect the performance of their car,
and thus affect their insurance policy.


The Association of British Insurers told the magazine that motorists
should “tell their insurer about any modification”, with one saying it
would decline to cover cars with their DPF removed due to the ECU
needing reprogramming after removal.edit churchill direct line and underwriters have also refused to insure cars


Most garages wrongly stated that it wasn’t essential to tell
insurance companies as the modification is difficult to detect, and
wouldn’t contravene the Road Vehicles (Construction and Use) Regulation
61A (using a modified car on the road which no longer meets the
emissions standards applied to it when new).


With the MOT not fully enforcing these regulations, vehicles passing the basic diesel smoke opacity inspection will still pass.

- See more at: http://www.eurocats....h.2aZKypdN.dpuf

http://www.eurocats....date-insurance/

 

the issue is that people on here are mis informing others on having the dpf removed giving them little facts as to the legality etc we cant give out radio codes but we can advise others to just whip out there dpf without saying its illegal as the poster stated he was not aware thats my issue as for proof email vosa youreself dont take my word for it in germany for years they use existing equipment plug it into the obd port and do a test takes 2 minutes costs no more money.it should be a sticky on the forum with all the relevant info and left to the person to decide on their own if its right ,no ones failed the test well they have im afraid my mate wont fail it if it looks like its their but he failed one for the weld showing and being poorly done and had to put it on the system the guy had it rewelded and you couldnt tell but vosas online database had it on record that it was suspected of being missing the owner had to pay to prove it was their which it wasnt so no mot could be given in the end he put an aftermarket dpf on etc and passed the test not all companies do a good job

 

as for the fault above We reprogram the engine's ECU, switching off all the DPF functions.
The car now no longer has a filter and the engine management is not
looking to regenerate it. "Problem Solved"

In most cases that's the end but occasionally
if there has been a mechanical or electronic fault with a component on
the engine such as the EGR valve this would need to be rectified

 

if the above was done there may be an issue as you say with a broken sensor wire

 

 

 the latest memo from simon birkett

CAL director Simon Birkett said that vehicles that have had their
filters stripped out are worsening air quality, and that if they are not
subjected to existing MOT emissions tests, or even stricter ones under
the EU proposals

 

“Tens of thousands of UK motorists are illegally driving diesel vehicles
without the filters, and face losing their car insurance and risk being
found guilty of fraud because of this ( if the customer sell the vehicle on and does not inform the new owner are they committing fraud) many without realising it.

 

 Department of transport speach 2014

 

A DfT spokesman said: “We are committed to lowering emissions from
vehicles, which is why in European Union negotiations we are supporting
an approach designed to improve emissions testing through the use of the vehicles on board diagnostics or even tail pipe emission tests.

 

From the association of motor repairers uk newsletter

 

It is the responsibility of the vehicle owner to
ensure that their vehicle is legal to drive and roadworthy, and to
declare it as such when applying for or renewing insurance.  Applying
for or renewing insurance knowing that the vehicle is illegal or
unroadworthy, would amount to misrepresentation and potential fraud

Terms and conditions of motor insurance policies normally specify that
the vehicle must be registered in the UK (or in the process of being
registered), and that the vehicle is roadworthy.  No
insurance would be offered or renewed if the owner declared to the
insurer that the vehicle was illegal to drive/unroadworthy.

Changes in the UK MOT rules from March 2014 also include checks on
the presence of the DPF Filter, so if it has been removed then your car
will fail its MOT inspection. Because this is currently only a visual
check, there are some companies who still continue to offer DPF Removal /
DPF Delete services which involve opening up the DPF, knocking out the
insides, rewelding and refitting, essentially leaving the original case
intact and still in its original place in an attempt to fool the MOT
visual check.


However, it is only a matter of time before the current MOT test
changes once again, to include a more advance method of checking, which
is already in place across parts of Europe and involves plugging a
diagnostic system into the car computer during the MOT test, and
physically checking that the DPF is present and working. Should the test
detect a problem, then the car will fail.

 

 

Auto
Express investigated 10 DPF removal companies, with most not informing
them that their modification will affect the performance of their car,
and thus affect their insurance policy.


The Association of British Insurers told the magazine that motorists
should “tell their insurer about any modification”, with one saying it
would decline to cover cars with their DPF removed due to the ECU
needing reprogramming after removal.


Most garages wrongly stated that it wasn’t essential to tell
insurance companies as the modification is difficult to detect, and
wouldn’t contravene the Road Vehicles (Construction and Use) Regulation
61A (using a modified car on the road which no longer meets the
emissions standards applied to it when new).


With the MOT not fully enforcing these regulations, vehicles passing the basic diesel smoke opacity inspection will still pass.

- See more at: http://www.eurocats....h.2aZKypdN.dpuf

Auto
Express investigated 10 DPF removal companies, with most not informing
them that their modification will affect the performance of their car,
and thus affect their insurance policy.


The Association of British Insurers told the magazine that motorists
should “tell their insurer about any modification”, with one saying it
would decline to cover cars with their DPF removed due to the ECU
needing reprogramming after removal.


Most garages wrongly stated that it wasn’t essential to tell
insurance companies as the modification is difficult to detect, and
wouldn’t contravene the Road Vehicles (Construction and Use) Regulation
61A (using a modified car on the road which no longer meets the
emissions standards applied to it when new).


With the MOT not fully enforcing these regulations, vehicles passing the basic diesel smoke opacity inspection will still pass.

- See more at: http://www.eurocats....h.2aZKypdN.dpuf

 

It is highly debateable whether DPFs really help emmisions, during the lifetime of the car (taking into account the extra fuel the DPF equipped car burns, in normal use, and even more during regens, and more still when the DPF is near the end of its life-cycle, then there is the manufacture of the DPF, and its carbon footprint and the enviromental impact of making several during the cars lifetime, then there are the emmisions when the DPF is old  

 

Strangely, a properly set up car with a DPF delete and a solid EGR late seems to smoke a lot less (as well as have a better MPG - cars with a better MPG have less enviromental impact , due to the resources/ energy pollotion required to dig (finite) fossil fuels out iof the ground/ sea, refine & transport it etc)

 

Another thing car/ DPF manufacturers don't want you to know is - its the tiny particles that are most harmful to peoples lungs, the particles that the  DPFs cannot filter (they just filter out the larger particles that are less harmful) in fact, the percentage increase of smaller (more harmful) particles is increased with a DPF fitted

 

With a DPF fitted, the particles tend to build up on the surface of the DPF over time then get "blown off" when the car is "booted" concentrating the pollution in certain locations (especially with a lot of traffic/ where cars accelerate) this can make these arease worse than if the cars did not have DPFs fitted (the pollution would be spread out over a longer period probably where it is less harmful )

 

The carbon footprint/ enviromental impact of the car has to be examined during its lifetime - not just sticking a plaster over a wound - it just does not work

 

For example, a diesel engine with no DPF, no EGR, but with an emmisions// sensor on the  exhaust that monitors the  particulate output and adjusts the fuelling to compensate (keeping the emmisions low) would be a lot more efficient (solution is better than cure/ "belt and braces") 

 

Its up to the individual car owner to decide whether to delete their DPF or not  




#417266 1.0 Eco Boost Or 1.6

Posted by FOCA on 07 October 2014 - 08:47 PM

Isn't the 1.0 125ps version as standard quicker than the old 1.6?

Yes - and lets not forget the extra 2mph top speed




#417248 Engine Cutting Out Whilst Driving.

Posted by FOCA on 07 October 2014 - 08:24 PM

An LX? (trim level) can you remember what was written on the pump when you last filled up (eg petrol or diesel? :lol: ) letting us know engine capacity would be good too, as these can have completely different engines, depending on the CCs




#416220 Air Intake Pipe Advice!!!

Posted by FOCA on 04 October 2014 - 03:24 PM

 

 

is there any way we could test the throttle pedal to eliminate it as a suspect?

Yes, you could disconnect it and put a multimeter on it (set on resistance/ ohms) then move the throttle in its range and see if there are any jumps or "dropouts" (sudden loss of continuity) - it should have a smooth progression of resistance in its range/ travel  

 

a Faulty/ intermitant fault TPS (throttle position sensor) could cause "kangaroo-ing" (because the ECU "thinks" you are pumping the throttle from the signal it recieves when it is actually a steady throttle opening

 

OP-

Overfuelling/ smell of petrol -  if one or more of the plugs is not firing (constantly or intermittantly)/ eg missing or running on 3 -  it can send unburnt fuel through the non-firing cylinder through the cat and out of the exhaust

 

Checked plugs yet?     




#415940 Air Intake Pipe Advice!!!

Posted by FOCA on 03 October 2014 - 12:05 PM

Ok, i filled up the other night with shell v power, the car has run alot better and smoother until last night.

 

This has always happened on my car, i was going round a large roundabout near where i live... i was going round in second gear around 20mph, then the car stated to buck and kangaroo, hold back and jolt again... i am only on about 10/15% throttle but i get these surges only when i go round roundabout in a high gear 2nd/3rd revs probably just under 3k and when i go up a still hill at low speed in 2nd gear the car bucks and holds back 3/4 times.

 

Then since that the car started to run a little bit rough again.

 

Up to that point its been lovely and smooth driving it on motorways and round town but again after last night started to run rough only after the roundabout issue, up to that point it was smooth. wierd.

 

I then plugged in my obd2 scanner for live data off my app and replicated this, and when it does this kangarooing around long tight cornering, the tps sensor readings keep jittering on my app. when i drive normal the scale doesnt fluctuate but i noticed that when the car surges and holds back, the tps readings go up and down and jittery. Even though my foot is held still on the throttle. Is there a sensor on the throttle pedal or the tps thingy again. Though im starting to think it could be fuel pump related even though the car has only done 50k

 

Any fresh ideas on this

Have you checked the plugs? - i cant see any pictures of them on this thread, did you put it on another thread?, have you done what was suggested in post #18?   

 

Of couse, the throttle pedal  is not like a traditional throttle, but a potentiometer (like a variabale resistor, like the volume control in a stereo or the mouse on a computer) this gives signals to the ECU 




#415156 Air Intake Pipe Advice!!!

Posted by FOCA on 30 September 2014 - 09:02 PM

 

 

I had this issue recently, when I put my foot to the floor there was no bite, and a large fizzing sound. (i now know that this is air)

The air was escaping from the two rubber air intakes at the front of the engine which were split at the back. 

 

Ford wanted £50 EACH! and they were Ford only parts. I got some radiator hose the same diameter (59mm?) which was about £9 from a local Hydraulics place, cut to size with a stanley, clamped on with jubilees and bobs your uncle. 

 

NB shortly after the 90 degree bend further on in the line also split, so replaced that with a 90 degree silicone bend on ebay, which was about £12. 

Unfortunately this has absolutely nothing to do with the OPs problem, you did not have the same issue as the OP (original poster)  

 

You have a turbo car, the OPs is NA (naturally asperated/ non-turbo)  

 

An NA engine will draw air into leaks, not blow it out like a turbo engine would

 

Apart from the fact that yours is a completely different engine, and is a diesel, not a petrol like the OPs




#414296 Air Intake Pipe Advice!!!

Posted by FOCA on 28 September 2014 - 01:15 PM

The rotten egg smell is the cat (catalytic converter)

 

Dont assume its not the coil packs/plugs/ leads even if they were changed, if the coil packs were changed and then the engine run with old plugs or leads, or if the plug(s) gap was too wide, that could "take out" (damage) the coil packs

 

We have yet to confirm the nature of the fault, if the engine is missing badly (like it was running on 3 cylinders) or it is just a mid-range flat spot

 

Take the (spark) plugs out and examine the tips, do they all look the same? post a picture of them (the tips, looking into the "guts" of them)

 

when the engine is running rough, disconnect the leads in turn when the engine is ticking over, the engine note should change or the engine shouls stall, if nothing happens when you disconnect a lead, that may be the one that is not getting a spark

 

Fit new plugs (again) this time "gap" tnen down to 0.8mm, this way, the spark will occur where it should, at the gap, not elsewhere like the leads or even inside the coil packs

 

Some posters may be very knowlegable, with a great deal of experience in engines/ cars, others may be regurgitating stuff they read on google/ other forums, it can be hard for the layman to tell the difference, but it pays to pay attention to the advice that you get on the forum, even if its from a regular owner (not a mecacanic/ non technical) especially if they have owned the same car, as they may have invaluable advice

 

Its esay to get "carried away" looking for the fault - it may be something simple/ basic that you have overlooked

 

Hopefully you get it sorted out before replacing every component

 




#413797 Air Intake Pipe Advice!!!

Posted by FOCA on 26 September 2014 - 06:30 PM

You can get an F-super code reader tat can read live data -

 

http://www.youtube.c...h?v=vinG-VNs0DU




#413766 Help Identifying A Mondeo Model

Posted by FOCA on 26 September 2014 - 05:05 PM

The LX in the same color would not have color coded mirrors/ door handles, (they would be black) there would be no fog lights (just "blanks", like fake vents, in black) and would probably not have the same wheels

 

but you would have to be very observant to notice the difference (apart from the wheels - which i feel would be noticable )

 

if it had steel wheels (16") you could fit these -

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item4d17f74739

 

which are similar to the zetec alloys/ look like alloys on the car

 

 

the standard pre-facelift wheel trims look like this (no good/ look like trims)-  

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item3ce3dc0dac




#412300 My 1.8Tdci Egr Has Been Blanked Off!

Posted by FOCA on 22 September 2014 - 08:24 PM

And so far it has been a wonderful improvement, acceleration is consistent without the splutter.

 

I do have one concern however.

 

My water temp is much lower after the mod, it barley gets past 60 on the gauge, even after a motorway drive!

 

can this cause problems?

This could be caused by -

 

1 - A drop in the ambient temp (colder weather+ you are using the heater/ more)

 

2 - An increase in efficiency (with the solid EGR plate the engine may be more efficient, producing less heat for the same power/ you need to use less throttle for the same effect )

 

3 - on some engines, the EGR plate blocks the EGR cooler -

 

The EGR cooler cools the hot exhaust gases coming from the exhaust manifold before it gets to the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valve - the cooler has a secondary function, as it heats the engine coolant directly from the exhaust - this can help the engine warm up quicker (the exhaust tends to warm up quicker than the engine (block)) and put a bit more heat into the engine - on a mondeo diesel the EGR cooler is located between the thermostat bypass and the cabin heater (so it helps heat the passesnger compartment before the (main) thermostat opens)

 

The Blanking plate could be re-located so the exhaust gases still heat up the EGR cooler (so the ehgine heats up as quickly as before/ taking #1 and #2 into account)

 

And you will still have the benifits of the EGR blanking plate (less hesitation/ flat spots/ better throttle response, less smoke, inlet stays clean, engine is more reiliable)

 

edit - typo      




#411523 Mapping

Posted by FOCA on 20 September 2014 - 02:55 PM

Im dissapointed and surprized no-one has mentioned the Superchips Bluefin -

 

These are similar to ordinary remaps but have some advantages -

 

Superchips has been around scince 1977 - the longest running in the UK (so they did not just get a laptop/ mobile no./ remap they got online last year/ last week) - so they are liable to be still in business when you need them

 

They have a dedicated after sales/ technical team (that you can actually get a hold of - swiftly)- i have had direct experience with - they were very good/ helpful to me

 

They have a lot of Ford products and support Ford - not just the performance models but the more everyday models too

 

You can order your Buefin online, and it gets sent in the post, no need to drive 100/200/500 miles to get your car remapped, and the same again if you want it modified/ revised or there is a problem - Superchips can revise your map online (just by plugging the handset into your PC) - i had several revisions this way - all good if you live in the sticks/ overseas or have a busy job/ one with "anti-social" hours  

 

Once you buy your Bluefin, you can have your map revised, free-of-charge for 12 months (there is no extra fee)

 

Often, you can transfer your map, free-of-charge to another car, within 12-months  

 

If you put your car in to a main stealers, and they update the ECU, this can delete your map, if you left the Bluefin map on and this happens, Superchips can return their  remap to you (they keep a copy of it)  

 

You can load your remap on at any time, or return it to the original, yourself, in 5mins, i take the performance map off when it snows, or when putting the car in to get valeted/ the garage/ MOTd, or lending it to the wife (its too fast for her even without the Superchips remap)

 

The Bluefin handset also has a handy OBD code reader built-in

 

http://www.mybluefin...dci200psNEW.pdf