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FOCA

Member Since 30 Oct 2012
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 10:34 PM
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#294022 Audio Experts Please View, Lenny Requires Sound Advise

Posted by FOCA on 02 October 2013 - 06:49 PM

I took pictures of the 8" speaker -

 

high power 8 inch speaker - 400x600 front 001.jpg

 

high power 8 inch speaker 400x600 front side 002.jpg

 

high power 8 inch speaker- 400x600 back 003.jpg

 

The speaker wiegs 3kgs, it has a 2" voice coil (air cooled with a vent on the back of the huge ferrite magnet)  the voice coil is aluminium /polymide, the basket is heavy duty steel

 

The magnet, voice coul is bigger than those found on many 12" or 15" speakers

 

the effeciency is 95db (1 watt at one meter) and it is eight ohms - it has a huge power handling for an 8" speaker (it was the most powerful i could find this size when i built the speakers - 450w )  

 

 

I have hardware / bits like heavy- duty speaker cable, pro-grade audio cable, acoustic foam etc that might be useful to you - and some electronic components like passive infrasonic/ high pass ("subsonic") filters you could use for your front door speakers

 

I may also have sourced a suitable amp for the sub/ rear speakers (online, i don't have it) and will be getting the full amp specs soon   




#294005 New To Fords :)

Posted by FOCA on 02 October 2013 - 05:36 PM

Hello and welcome




#293269 New Tyres On Front?

Posted by FOCA on 29 September 2013 - 12:22 PM

Quoting the advice of the AA-

Generally it's good practice to fit the best/newest tyres on the rear in wet conditions, this favours understeer rather than oversteer.
So if you have the front tyres renewed it's best to have the rear ones moved to the front and the new tyres fitted to the rear.
Tyres with deep tread are less likely to puncture and it's more difficult to control a car with a damaged rear tyre.

+1 - Agreed, my fronts wear out faster (FWD) - when i buy new tyres, i put the the wheels/ tyres that were on the rear onto the front, and put the new tyres on the rear

 

This prevents lift-off oversteer (losing the rear of the car or the car going into a spin) and makes the car more stable in bends, in the wet and at high speed - and in emergency situations like high-speed lane changing -  so is safer

 

If you have a lift-off-oversteer problem caused by more grip on the front than on the back if you are on a high-speed sweeping bend (eg on a wet motorway sliproad etc) and you start to loose the back end, if you lift-off (the thottle) the car will go into an uncontrollable spin 

 

If your car understeers (if you have put the best tyres on the back) the back /rear of the car is very unlikely to let go and it is the front that is liable to slip/ fet go, in the same situation as above when the front "lets go" or slides wide you simply "lift off" or back off the throttle and the front will "tuck in" or stop sliding wide/ the car will slow down but the back end will stay "planted" without "stepping out" or going into a spin - (so is safer)  

 

I know some drivers like a little bit of oversteer but for most road driving lift-off oversteer (on a FWD car) is undesirable because thats just when you need the car to be controllable - and even as an ex- racer & race engineer i prefer the car to be predictable even though im perfectly capable to "catch" the back end stepping out - so my cars are set-up to be neutral to terminal understeer in all conditions - even the tyre pressures influence this  

 

It also means you only have to replace 2 tyres at once instead of 4, as the fronts will wear out a lot quicker

 

The tyre-fitting "monkey" probably could not be bothered switching the tyres around because it involves more work/ time - with only doing the fronts he would only have to take off/ put back on / balance the front wheels/ tyres and not touch tha backs and it means the next time you come in he can sell you 4 tyres instead of 2

 

(a lot (but not all) of these people /places are clueless and talk complete garbage)

 

So my vote is - front wheel drive car = best tyres on the back for safety/ stability     




#293216 My Diesel Has Become A Tractor...... :(

Posted by FOCA on 29 September 2013 - 04:06 AM

Sorry I havnt posted back.
Didnt get any notifications of replies??

Ive just done a 16 hour stint at work so am knackered but will reply properly tomorrow guys..

Bed time



Zzzzzzzzzzzzzz

You should have got notifications - perhaps you should adjust your settings

 

If its any consolation, mine sounds quite loud/ like a really big truck when i start mine up, especially from cold  (straight- through exhaust, no sound proofing, large diameted CAIS, / heavily modified motor etc)

 

Just try not to wake every one up when you start your car up at night from cold  :lol:




#293085 My Mondeo

Posted by FOCA on 28 September 2013 - 10:37 AM

Update -

 

I MOTd the car recently - i always had trouble with the rear brakes /handbrake and last year i gave it to a mechanic to fix,(i hate working on brakes (or gearboxes!)) he replaced one rear caliper and brake caple and it got it through the last MOT but did not work well and kept sticking on - so i just parked the car "in gear"  

 

So before the MOT i replaced the rear caliper on the other side and both handbrake cables (they tend to get stretched and its best to replace them as a pair)

 

So with 2 new handbrake cables, and a new rear caliper, and a year-old one (its incredible how rough it looks after just one year!) i reconed i could get the handbrake working nicely

 

1st i fitted the new caliper,- i clamped the flexi cable and fitted it on, then bled the system - and the (foot) brakes worked well with this

 

When i was under the car i noticed the rust underneath - i kurust and hammerite under the car every couple of years and the hammerite paint was flaking off because it was rusting under that (the rust was not that bad- it dir not require welding etc)

 

To cut a long story short i knocked all the old loose paint off the underside of the car (and suspension and wheel wells ) with a small hammer, wire-brushed it, de-greased it (with detergent) by hand with a scrubbing brush rinsed it and kurust-ed the lot - so now there is no visible/ surface rust on the underside of the car, at all/ it looks black - and next time it should be a lot easier

 

I fitted the handbrake cables, the levers on the calipers go back to the stops (apparently if they don't it can damage the helix inside the calipers and the handbrake auto-adjust does not work(the caliper pistons have to be unwound a certain way too))  i got them all nicely adjusted and then tied the cables up nicely using cable ties (so they did not hang down like they used to) andv i re-routed the cable(s) slightly to keep it away from the heat of the exhaust (this had meler the plastic on the old cable)

 

So the underside was completely rustproofed and the handbrake worked perfectly for the 1st time in years

 

I had also refurbed all wy wheels (got loads) including de-greasing, preparing and  rustproofing and painting (outside and in) all my steelies - i through out some old, worn tyres and replaced them with some i had bought on ebay last year - some turned out to be "lemons" and could not be used, and one if my rims had a split on it - so i have less spares than expected - still plenty though, and it will be a while (probably a couple of years) before i have to buy new tyres

 

I had bought new front discs/ pads as as set (stock genuine Ford) and rear discs/pads in previous years, so they were good, - i considered upgrading them (EG- Focus st225 are bigger front discs) but this would add weight and MK3s all have the same brakes (including the 150mph ST220) and with the car bieing lightened 150kgs the brakes work well (and i dont have a "heavy braking driving style - i like to keep the momentum up- that and the lightness is probably why the brakes seem to last)

 

I had spent weeks under the car, rustproofing it etc, so i decided to stick the car in for the MOT, to see what it needed, -to my surprise,  it passed 1st time with just a couple of minor advisories (the tester was probably distracted to see a 10+ year old car with an immaculate underside :lol: )

 

I bought and fitted the electronic temp controller (for the electric waterpump) the engine  warms up quicker now, and seems to be faster too (and probably has a better MPG) 

 

Now its MOTd i can get on with the serious modifications!                   




#292901 How Many Fords Have You Owned Heres Mine

Posted by FOCA on 27 September 2013 - 10:47 AM


 

As far as i can remember my own Fords were -


 

Sierra Cosworth rep


 

Fiesta van


 

Escort van


 

Mondeo mk1


 

Mondeo mk2


 

Mondeo mk3


 

(almost all modified in big or small ways)


 

Present car for 8+years, and Mondeos for 12+ years (off the top of my head)

 

If i put in all my company cars, all my dads' cars i drove, or shared with a partner all the the cars i did up to sell -and my cars from different marques the list would probably run into 100s (if i could remember- some i would rather forget :lol: )




#292892 Think I Offended Him!!!

Posted by FOCA on 27 September 2013 - 09:48 AM

In 2 weeks the MOT runs out and then its worth £200 - scrap value - so i think your offer is fair enough -

 

If it had 12 months MOT it would be worth more, of course -

 

The MOT can be difficult and expensive to pass in an old car these days




#292102 Audio Experts Please View, Lenny Requires Sound Advise

Posted by FOCA on 24 September 2013 - 02:48 AM

Thanks foca,
Last message you posted got a bit tangled with the quote,
I've edited the quote to only contain your post but I don't have moderation of this forum section,
So I can't edit your post to reflect the quote,
However you can edit it yourself and copy the section I've quoted above,

Anyways back to topic,

So its like this for the rear speakers.

Headunit ---- X over ----- Amp ---- each rear speaker

Then the front speakers will be fed directly from the head unit yes?

The front of the Levin has stock tweerers inside the wing mirror corresponding covers,
So I'd link to fit a set of 6" component speakers up front with inline crossovers to power the tweeters.

I wouldn't bother with tweeters in the back,
If I could get the rear 6" speakers to be concentric for the rear then the sub would provide sufficient base,

Am I correct so far?

I'd prefer not to have tweeters in the back because I don't want to draw the sound focus away from the front,
I'd like to keep vocal and high up front and the lower sounds coming from the rear, backing up the front.
Am I correct on that idea ?

Spot on with the "audio chain" for the rears. if the head unit did not have seperate pre outs and power-amp ins (for the 4 power amps you would normally get in a powered head unit, f(ront, R+L, and rear R+L) then the (speaker) output (from the head unit) that would normally go to the front speakers would go to the (front) tweeters, and the output that would normally go to the rear speakers would go to the front 6" speakers - this is not a problem but the front/rear fader control would just balance the 6"/tweeters in the front (if you follow) you could add an extra "rear volume control" seperate from the head unit to work as a front/ rear fader , the "overall" voume control would act as normal, turning all speakers up/ down, any EQ built into the head unit would act on all channels/ amps/ speakers  

 

the tweeters would need passive x-overs for the front, and the 6" fronts may need passive hi-cut/ low pass filters/ x-overs, - it would be nice to have infrasonic filters on the 6", - this would increase the headroom/ power handling - they would have to be passive (between the amp and speaker) -  with seperate amps for the front as well (or seperate pre/ power connections on the head unit) - active x-overs could be used, with better power/ control etc (but more compexity/ expense) - using all 4 amps in the head unit is a good, neat compromise though   



The sub that you have mate,
Is it designed for automotive installation ?
And with the X-overs I'll still only need the one amplifier ?

 

Yes, one 4-channel amp with 2 of the channels "bridgeable" (tied together) to end up with 3 channels, one high-power for the sub, and 2 smaller ones for the 6" rears, i might think of them as 4 "amps" in one "box" - and think of the head unit as having 4 "amps" inside it

 

The 8" "sub" i have was not designed for automotive applications, there are advantages and disadvantages in this - the disadvantages are -

1-  it looks "industrial" / basic, it is not "styled" in any way and looks "old fashioned" to the untrained eye - the technology is inside it (as you say they will be behind the grilles, though)

 

2 the impedance/ power handling is set-up for massive "pro" mains-powered amps - they are eight ohms - car speakers are normally 4- ohms or less the car amp will have to be carefully chosen to drive it (and the 2 6", if they are similar) with serious power into 8 ohms (i think its do-able with a bit of "tweaking")  

 

3 weight - 3 kilos is quite heavy for a "little" 8" speaker (see "advantages" )

 

Advantages -

1 - the little 8" speaker has a massive magnet on it - as big as some 12" or 15" speakers, - the 8* speaker can outperform many 12" or 15" speakers though - in terms of power handling/ output - so is lighter than the equivelant 12" or 15" sub (epecially without having a cabinet)

 

2 massive power handling - the speaker has things like a vented,  large diameter voice coil, using special techniques/ technology, it has a cobalt magnet and is electrically a lot tougher than an automotive speaker -  it can take a real "thrashing" and is tested to twice its rated power - the power figures are "true" and not eggzagerated like car speakers are

 

3 - efficiency - the speaker is very efficient, especially compared to an automotive speaker - if 1 watt is applied, it produces 94dB - at one meter - this will help when choosing an amp too, and help offset the 8-ohm impedance

 

4 - they were designed for PA systems for bands, nightclubs, djs etc - regular car use will hardly "stress" them           




#292100 Audio Experts Please View, Lenny Requires Sound Advise

Posted by FOCA on 24 September 2013 - 01:34 AM

I like the plan of having the audio on a desperate circuit,
And I plan to have a kill switch hidden somewhere too,

I've found some soundproof speaker enclosures available in various sizes that may suit the rear 6.5" speakers,
You said previously in the plan that some MDF enclosures around the rear 6.5" speakers would help them aswell as prevent noise contamination from the sub,
Well I found these, would be rights than MDF and a straight fit.
. http://www.ebay.co.u...984.m1423.l2649

If they don't work, I can give them to Vicki for flower pots :lol:

This battery's you linked look great, I'm sure they are very expensive though,
I did find some braile light 18kg I think,
Car battery says its suitable for boo install and doesn't give off gasses or leak acid,
Costs around 180 pounds, and says it will last 7-8 years
S I reckon its worth that price f it lasts that long and can be fitted inside the car then it should be good.

The enclosures look good - a good find and a neat solution -

 

the actual internal volume of the enclosures looks small though, so it could mean the 6" cones don't have enough room to "breathe", the fact that they are only being used as midrange may mean thats ok though (as the cone excursion won't be as large as a bass speaker) but mabee go one size bigger on the enclosure size for more internal volume, and add some acoustic wadding/ foam to the bottom of the enclosure to help stop the out-of-phase sound energy from the rear of the speaker "rattling about" the enclosure to to find its way back through the cone (thinking aloud i suppose they could be vented to the cabin/ not the boot)

 

A good battery is a must for an ICE install and with it being close to the amp i think it would work well and negate the need for a capacitor - if it was in the middle far-forward in the boot it will probably help the balance (and traction on a RWD car) - i think it would be a neat addition    




#291855 1.8 Tdci Euro 4 Egr Blanking Plate Good Or Bad?

Posted by FOCA on 23 September 2013 - 05:57 AM

Can anyone explain to me when does the EGR valve 'do its thing'. Does it go from fully closed to fully open or by gradual steps in between and what is the 'event' that causes this to happen. What detects combustion temperatures to be high enough to deploy the valve? I've just done 300 miles of motorway driving with my Focus 1.8tdci today and with 50 miles to the end of my journey i noticed (as did my passengers) 2 distinct 'misses'. These were 25 miles and just for an instant but - noticealbe.It's as if the engine was shut off for a milli-second and back on again. No codes, no alarms. Is this the EGR valve opening? Is this normal, does anyone else experience this on the 1.8 tdci?? I have no complaints regarding performance or economy

Different designs of EGR valves work in slightly different ways depending on the engine, some are simply "off" or "on" (eg a solenoid) others are motor driven (variable opening) sometimes with a position sensor that is fed back to the ECU

 

Combustion produces heat - combustion requires oxegen - and if the oxegen is replaced with carbon monoxide combustion cannot happen, so less heat produced/ but less power - originally the EGR valve systems were used on petrol engined cars and the valve opened on the overrun/ lift off and shut when the thottle opened again

 

Your "misses" is probably the EGR valve opening - it is often descibed as "flat spots" or "hesitation" - it must be bad if your passengers noticed it - i suggest you try a solid EGR blanking plate - you might find this dissapears, and engine runs smoother, with no "flat spots", better pickup, throttle response etc  

 

I am very happy for you that you have no complaints about performance or economy, many other motorists do, the forum is full of posts asking/ discussing ways of increasing their cars performance or economy, and manufacturers spend a lot of money on the same as well

 

If you run a diesel with an EGR valve/ system that is not completely banked or disabled/ deleted, you will contaminate your ilet with carbon from the exhaust, which will build up over time, eventually choking the inlet and reducing performance/ economy   




#291848 My Mk2 Focus Estate

Posted by FOCA on 22 September 2013 - 10:30 PM

Sounds good George,
Get the dpf internally removed, will give you more torque, high end boost and 0.4 km per litre of a fuel increase

+1

+  no more problems with or money needed to be spent to clean, repair, or replace the DMF anymore  




#291160 Mk7 1.6Tdci (90Bhp) Remap - Through Odb?

Posted by FOCA on 19 September 2013 - 02:05 PM

There must be something that can be done, as Superchips can remap the car if you take it to a Superchips dealer -

 

http://www.superchip...aMk71.6TDCi.pdf

 

where abouts are you?




#291159 Ebay

Posted by FOCA on 19 September 2013 - 01:57 PM

I would bid myself but i hate the smell of burning rubber! :lol:




#291024 1.8 Tdci Euro 4 Egr Blanking Plate Good Or Bad?

Posted by FOCA on 18 September 2013 - 04:46 PM

The blanking plates with a hole or holes in them are a waste of time (defeats the purpose of the plate) because they still allow exhaust gasses through to contaminate and choke up the cars inlet (including the manifold, inlet valves, EGR valve housing etc ) and a blate that is not solid requires a working EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) to work

 

A solid (no holes to let gasses through) blanking plate completely stops exhaust gases from entering the inlet, this is replaced with clean air, so engine runs better (turbo spools quicker with less "flat spots"/ hesitation) engine responds better to the throttle

 

A solid blankig plate "fixes" a faulty EGR system or leaking EGR valve - no need to buy a new valve - save ££££s

 

After a solid plate is fitted, the carbon will stop building up in the inlet, if it is also cleaned out (by taking the inlet manifold off) - it will stay clean (from carbon from the exhaust)

 

If the EML (engine management light) comes on with a solid plate, it can be reset with a code reader

 

My advice is to fit a solid EGR blanking plate (preferably stainless steel - mild steel rusts, aluminium can melt) or dont bother -

 

Plates with a hole are a waste of time

 

Spraying in  EGR cleaner is a bad idea - if it works its liable to fill your engine up with muck - take the inlet manifold off and fill a bucket with muck instead     




#290950 Rs Owner Lanarkshire :)

Posted by FOCA on 18 September 2013 - 04:06 AM

Hello, welcome!

 

Nice car - and i like your photography!