The EGR can be blocked (solid, stainless dteen plate) but it is a Euro 4 and liable to put the EML on
Unfortunately that is not all that goes wrong with them - the DMF can give trouble, the aux belt/ pulleys wears quite quickly (very long bely and poor tensioner design) cousing it to rattle on tickover and the electronic actuator can play up (VNT vanes can coke up)
When it is going well it is a nice car to drive with good handling and decent nidrange torque, with just a remap, can be made fairly quick, but still with a decent MPG (people have different ideas of what "quick" is, but its an exellent balance of power/ MPG )
typical mods are :- remap, larger FMIC, decat, free-flow stainless exhaust, i built my 2.0L TDDI estate to be quicker than an ST-TDCI hatch with these mods,- it was a lot of work to achieve/ exeed this
the ST220 is a gutsy brute, dropping to 20mpg round town/ booting it, but its a nice car to drive, too, with a nice sounding & torquy v6, its not as quick as a Focus st-225, though
Another car worth considering is the mk4 Titanium x 2.2, its a bit newer,(the last mk3s are 7/8 years old now) and has more tuning potential, with 220HP potential with just a remap
Oh right thanks much simpler than I thought only needing one channel. Wont be fitting until January. But I like to be prepared
There are only 2 channels on a car system, R + L (right and left) the (eg) left speakers (front and rear) are fed by the same (left) channel
Strictly speaking,(going "buy the book") you should connect both the L+R channels to the sub, but you can "get away" with only connecting one channel/ rear speaker "at a pinch"
You won't hear the difference with 99% of music, some very early Beatles records may sound strange (ie- where the vocals come out of one speaker and the droms, etc out of the other- an early attempt at stereo recorded on 4-track) and possibly some music with sycadelic? bass- panning effects (pink floyd/ some dance music) but that is rare and normally both channels are fed the same bass
Thanks for the reply.
I'll go for the non powered one then, does seem the easier to install and the sound quality is never going to be amazing with the ford cassette head unit, but I like analogue sound so I'm keeping it. Just want to be able to turn it up without distorting. speaker upgrade to come as well
Oh and does it matter where I put the converter. Is it better near the head unit or can I splice into the rear speakers in the boot? - where the sub will be, so a lot easier.
I would just hook it up to to one of the rear speakers in the boot, that way you are keeping the wiring from the convertor to sub(amp) short
As the sub is "mono" or single-channel, you can just use one converter, taken from one channel(side) or rear speaker, this will simplfy installation and may reduse the chance of crasstalk/ eath loops, hum or buzzing
interference/ hum/ buzzing can be a problem with these converters if you take the power for the sub(amp) straight from the battery (via an inline fuse) you could fit an on/off switch for the amp near the radio, that way if there is any hum from the sub you could switch it off when you are not listening to music, or even when you are listening the the radio/cass quietly (it would also save electrical power)
if hum/ buzz is a problem you could adjust the settings on the sub amp, or fit a (passive) ground loop isolator between the converter and sub-amp
This was going to be my next question on my subwoofer installation thread (unfortunately that was lost in the recent data loss).
The idea is to splice into the rear speaker outputs with one of these converters so that I have an rca out for the sub as my 18 year old head unit doesn't have one , which I've been told is fine to do.
Question is will I need to use a powered converter or non powered? as I want the rear speakers to still work (see below if you don't know what I mean)
No difference in price, I just want the correct one
What concerns me about this plate is it fits at the exhaust (hot) end and its made of aluminium, which can melt/ has a lower melting piont than steel - i would rather fit a stainless steel one (solid, of course)
I am going to install it as there are just too many people on here with the same engine as me who have suffered no ill effects whatsover. Only gains from doing it.
I was going to have my DPF deleted by a friend of the person who I bought the car off for just £350 but, after speaking to him today, it seems this guy is a mobile deleter and I dont think I want such an important item to be done by a mobile outfit??
He told me they are very thorough and remap the engine and also delete the egr at the same time.
Mobile fitters?? Any good??
There would be some debate about this -
there are good and bad garages and good and bad mobile mechanics / fitters (just because they are mobile does not nessesarily make them "bad") - a top firm would have premises, a rolling road, an established reputation etc though
I've fitted my blanking p,ate this morning on a 1.6 tdci 2010 focus zetec s and I can only say best fiver I've ever spent on a car no light on the dash but I did have the ecu remapped and the dpf removed :-)
nice one - its good to get positive feedback about solid plates
Not yet that's my next purchase planned then it's a full samco hose kit and a gen 3 air tech intercooler to follow prep work going forward for a hybrid turbo not going mental but 170bhp is the aim and 300lb per ft of torque by this time next year :-)
There is someone who has got 230Hp/300+ft-lbs out of the PSA 1.6, it had a fortune spent on it and it wasnt even a 1.6 when it was finished, realistically, with it staying a 1.6 and most of the stock components/ without serious development work done by experts and mucho ££££££££££££s spent, 150Hp is more realistic, possibly 160 (on straight diesel) - if you started with a 2.0L TDCI you could have 170Hp with just a remap (otherwise bog stock), and more potential if you want to do more - i would seriously consider starting with a 2.0L - it wold probably be cheaper/ faster (with more power/torque) / more reliable
I would really like to see an ST225 replica with a powerful/ quick 2.0L diesel engine in it
Someone correct me but if its a later model, '08 onwards, can cause engine malfuction light and limp mode.......
A lad posted on here a couple of days ago reporting the above issue which he still hasnt resolved after fitting the blanking plate.
A solid EGR blanking plate will not cause limp (home) mode - that is just a nonsense/ garbage rumor that has was spread around forums - like the posts suggesting that a 1-litre ecoboost is too powerful for its size/ will wear out/ blow up - total garbage - engines are getting smaller/ more powerful
It can be removed via a complete rewrite of the ECU but I dont believe it can just be disabled...
We need to send out the BatFoca signal for FOCA to come along! lol
I was in the FOCA-cave working on the FOCA-mobile - adding more power/ a few more modifications, as there is not enough
just a follow up to this,took car in to fords for update and I thought if you could here the egr cycling after you turn engine off that was the latest software update,but apparently not a new one was released for drivability problems as mine had with a new egr fitted,just thought I would let people know incase they change their egr and program it in and still it don't run right could need a update.
A working EGR is liable to cause flat spots and hesitation, ("drivability problems") even when the car is brand new and the EGR is "perfectly" set up - this is because engines run better on clean, cool oxegen- rich air than on burnt exhaust gasses, of couse, once the inlet is full of carbon/ muck it gets even worse
A diesel engine will always run better with the EGR blanked (solid plate) or disabled
i have an 2006 1.8tdci ford focus , egr valve was the problem , i have replaced it with secondhand one , after couple days problems started again like black smoke , car goes in to a limp mode , loss of power etc,
then i took it to the ford for diagnostic , code came up p0489 which they said egr valve , or wiring ,
electrician checked the wiring , there is no problem , so thinking now second egr was faulty
with 1.8 engines i have been told that its part of the manifold
i am wondering, would blanking plate sort my problem out
Yes, a solid blanking plate can "fix" a faulty/ leaking EGR valve/system
the solid plate effectively disables the EGR system - so if it is not working right, (sticking, leaky jammed etc) the solid plate blocks this off, "fixing" the problem - this does not happen with plates with holes in them, plates with holes to let the gasses through need the EGR valve/ system to be working
A solid plate made of stainless steel, and decently thick, (aluminium can melt, mild steel rusts, if its too thin and its near the exhaust it can burn through) is the best
Sorry to pop in, have the complete opposite problem to the OP.
I actually like the sound of turbo whistle, how can I make it audible in my 1.4TDCI ?
If you fit performance mods/ parts, (remap/ tuning box, air filter, exhaust etc), it can often give the car a more sporting/ louder sound, a mechanical boost gauge connected to the compressor outlet can sometimes bring the turbo sound into the cabin