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Member Since 30 Oct 2012
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 05:18 PM

#301342 Thanks Button Not Working Anymore?

Posted by FOCA on 31 October 2013 - 09:39 PM

This isn't so much of a site feature request, but I couldn't find a more appropriate section...


A while back the "thanks" button you see at the bottom of every posts seemed to be working normally.


I don't think it fully works anymore - you can still click it, and the user will be notified, but it is no longer possible to publicly see who has thanked each post. (E.g "Steve likes this")


Or have I just completely lost my grey matter somewhere? :rolleyes:  

Do you mean the "like" button?


If everyone could just press the "like" button on a few of my posts just to make sure :)

#301062 New Head Unit With Rear View Camera Problems

Posted by FOCA on 31 October 2013 - 12:40 AM

When car ignition is on the rear view camera is perfect. But when the rear view camera is activated when engine is running there is lines and sometimes not even a display from the camera as per the video above

It is possible the engine (eg - the ignition/ ht leads or alternator etc) is interfering with the signal (either air-bourn or through the cables/power supply)


On the original Golf HTI 16v, the radio ariel was relocated to the back of the roof because the engine interfered with the radio in the normal position- thus starting the trend for rear mounted arials (it was not intended as a styling or aerodynamic thing)  


If you took the (power) feed for the head unit and camera derectly from the battery, that will help with power/ cable bourne interference (you may need an extra/ additional power switch for the audio) as the battery acts as filter/ damper to power-bourn interference - you can also add filters/ suppressors


Careful shielding would help with the air-bourne (radio/ rfi) interference, (eg co-axially shielded cable for the video feed) and adding ferrite cores/ chokes to the signal wires


re-routing the earths can help too , 


there is also a possibility that the voltage changes/ raises when the engine is running (eg upto 16v) due to the smart-charge system - and the camera cannot handle this voltage - a voltage regulator could help


Alternatively you could try a different camera (it may cope with the conditions(voltage/ interference) better)     

#300815 More Power From Fiesta Zetec S?

Posted by FOCA on 30 October 2013 - 11:01 AM

Hello and welcome!


It sounds like you already know how to make your car quicker


Once you have remapped the car, the power increases can often have deminishing returns, so for the remap, it has a significant gain for not too much money, then to get a smaller additional improvement, you have to spend quite a bit more - and once you start spending a lot of money, you may have been better off getting an ST in the 1st place


On top of that a bigger turbo and intercooler can add a lot of turbo lag - ithas been said that although the 1-litre  ecoboost- engined formula-Ford (with ST turbo) had 200Hp, the power/ throttle was like a "switch" (poor drivability)  which may be ok for a very lightweight "race" car, but not so good for a heavier road car


Nevertheless - im interested to find out what will be possible (and still driveable/ practical) myself

#299873 Possibly Getting Banned?

Posted by FOCA on 27 October 2013 - 03:29 AM

Insurance and money really isn't the biggest problem for me (I'm not boasting) I just really need my car. If I do get banned it will just show how much I actually do need it. 

If insurance and money are no problem why are you driving a 5-year-old Fiesta 1.2?


Ive got some big (expensive) plans for my car - all donations graciously recieved :lol:

#299775 Focus Cosworth

Posted by FOCA on 26 October 2013 - 04:17 PM

bit of a sleeper too, very nice!

Agreed, with the stickers removed, and more subtle wheels/ exhaust it would be an exellent sleeper 


is it rwd/ 4wd?   

#299539 Air Filters And Exhaust

Posted by FOCA on 25 October 2013 - 02:32 PM

Agreed, an underbonnet cone filter will loose power when the engine warms up as it draws warm air (it makes more noise though- if thats what you want)


As part of my research into "performance" air filters, i discovered this thread on a VW forum, where they tried various different intake and filter setups on a 16v golf GIT,


Its a massive long thread spanning 2 years so here are the conclusions in a nutshell -


Stock filter with stock airbox........... 145Hp...... ("baseline")


K&N panel filter with stock airbox... 145HP........ (exactly the same as the stock filter/ no difference/ improvement)


no filter element with stock filter .....145HP.........so the filter element is not the most restricted part of the intake,


And it makes no difference whether you have a stock paper filter fitted, a K&N panel filter or no filter ,(on this 145HP NA GTI) the stock filter costs £10, the K&N £30, the stock filter filters better than the K&N (the K&N allows smaller dust particles through- especially when new and it has not had time to build up a layer of dust/dirt on the surface of the filter) after 10kmiles, the stock filter restricts the airflow more than the K&N, but you can change the stock one 3 times (upto 6 times on some cars,) for the cost of a K&N


Moral - fit a stock filter and change it every 6months/ 6k (whatever comes 1st)- best for filtring/ protecting the engine, and same for power & torque as "performance" panel filter, no modifications/ no extra insurance hassles/ cost


Stock filter - win- win situation (might as well have a K&N sticker for all the difference it makes)


pipercross panel filter........... 148.5Hp (open bonnet so not taking the power loss due to heatsoak into account )


Stock filter/ modified airbox... 151.2Hp and better torque/ driveability (a stock filter with modified airbox outperformed everything else!)


the airbox was modified with a bellmouth added (see link for full details )


the other thing that the thread proves is that the IAT resistor REDUCED power on this car (a resistor or cheap tuning box that is fitted between the ECU and Inlet Air Temprature sensor- that fools the ECU into thinking the inlet air is cold when it is not- so the ECU richens the mixture) - what happend was the richer mixture reduced the power by about 3hp (MPG would have been reduced too)


The K&N panel filter may improve power a little or throttle response on some cars (where the filter itself is the most restrictive part of the air intake/ induction system, and the ECU can take advantage of the extra airflow - probably quite a small percentage of cars, as most modern cars have quite lage filters) and improve pick-up/ low end (off boost) power on some turbo cars but in general you would be just as well sticking to the stock filter/ airbox on most cars


The full thread -



#299341 Air Filter

Posted by FOCA on 24 October 2013 - 09:48 PM


I have to say I would be inclined to do the same. No point ploughing loads of money into performance mods if you won't be able to drive it. No harm in doing a few small mods though I guess.


Induction kit and a decent exhaust system/sports cat would liberate a handful of ponies and increase noise a little but in all honesty with a small naturally engine the only way to gain serious power would be an engine transplant to a 2.0 litre ST block or similar. This would probably make it difficult for you to insure though.  

Agreed, better to save the pennies for potential fines,future  insurance increases and bus fares

#298525 1.8 Tdci Running On Added 2 Stroke?

Posted by FOCA on 21 October 2013 - 11:30 PM

Oh where to start -


Diesel used to have a high sulphor content, this was changed around 2007, and the sulphor greatly reduced, after 2007 (up till today, and the forseeable future) bio-diesel was added to the diesel - a minumum of 5% to 7%, the bio-diesel acts as a lubricant (replacing the "high" sulphor in the diesel)


some diesel engines built after 1998 and before 2007 (common rail) do not "like" modern low sulphor diesel, and wear out quicker than they would with old-style diesel, a perfect example of this is the mk3 Mondeo (2.0 + 2.2L) diesel engine, when it was released in 1999/2000, it was not designed for the low-sulphor diesel pump diesel sold to the public after 2007 (Delphi injectors)


Modern diesel engines made after 2007 are designed to run on low sulphor, modern diesel, without additives, the bio-diesel should have sufficient  lubrication



Much older, non-common rail diesels should run well on almost anything (like my Mondeo 2.0 TDDI, with its vp44 Bosch pump- it can (and does) run on vegatable oil, and has no problem with various fuels)


The in-between common rail (approx 1998-2007) engines may benifit from additional lubrication, but you must be very careful -


1 - 2-stroke oil was designed to run in 2-STROKE PETROL engines not 4-stroke diesel engines


2 -    there are 3 types of 2-stroke oil, Mineral based, Synthetic, And Semi Synthetic 


3 -  A  - even in a 2-stroke petrol engine, if you change the type of 2-stroke oil, you must strip the engine down, clean it out and rebuild it with the new type of oil, (different types cannot be mixed) or it can "gunge up" causing the (2 stroke petrol) engine to sieze - the 2-stroke petrol engine runs on petrol,


3 -  B  - there is no way of telling how any of those 3 types of 2-stroke oil will mix with diesel/ the bio-diesel in modern diesel fuel or how it will react inside the combustion chamber   


4 -  2 stroke oil is expensive and costs a lot more than diesel (litre for litre) by adding it you may,  at best, just be adding to the cost of your tank of fuel, and at worst, potentially causing harm (if you don't do your research)


5 -  A -  2-stroke oil will not make diesel engine combustion chambers cleaner - its more likely to make it dirtier, as the 2-stroke oil produces ash/ smoke soot when it burns,


 5 - B  - Blanking the EGR and diverting the crancase breather will keep the inlet manifold / inletts/ inlet valves clean (whatever the fuel) having the engine set up / serviced/ tuned so it does not produce a lot of smoke and driving it harder will help to keep it cleaner (whether you are running diesel/ veg oil etc)


© - If you really want to clean the inside of your engine - water and methanol injection really keeps diesel engines' combustion chambers clean  (apparently), - its like steam cleaning the inside of the engine - adds a bit more power too!   


If you really must use (petrol) 2-stroke oil on your 4-stroke diesel it i would do some research/ test the brand of 2-stroke oil you are going to use to see that it mixes with (modern) diesel, and not change brands / types, 


Ive been running my Mondeo Mk3 TDDI on pure (clean) veg oil/ veg oil diesel mix/ diesel  for several years now 

#298437 Mondy Under Performing/manifold Clogged Up?

Posted by FOCA on 21 October 2013 - 04:58 PM

The inlet manifold can get clogged up -  the EGR valve deposits carbon deposits on the inside of the inlet, this mixes with the oil from the crankcase breather, forming an oily "gunge" this can "choke" the engine over time but-


There is no guarantee this is what is wrong with your engine/ what is causing your problem, £250 is a lot of money to take the inlet manifold off to clean it, a competent DIY-er with a Hanes manual should be able to do this, you could even buy another inlet manifold (for less than £100) have that cleaned (stick it to a valeter, its a messy job) and switch tem round (this way the car is off the road for the minimum time, scince its a taxi) the other inlet manifold could then be cleaned, and kept for the next time, or sold on (possibly even for a profit- scince its clean)


When a diesel is MOTd only the particulates are measured, (ie- the smoke) - the air-fuel ratio is not measured, my diesel engine does not have a lambda sensor (its normally fitted to petrol engines- i don't know if some more recent designs have them) - these things are liable to show up in the DTC codes, too


Your fault is difficult to diagnose even with access to the vehicle, (as you have seen) meny mechanics rely heavily on fault codes,- you could do the "service" items like the fuel filter (fit a genuine Ford one or "Premium" one - cheap pattern ones can cause problems) change the air filter (Ford often have exessivly long service intervals for this- i do mine every 6k/6months, whichever comes sooner) and a frequent oil/filter change is a good precaution 


Does your car have a DPF? (some 1.8 mk4 TDCIs have/ some don't) this may be the source of your problem, or it could be the VNT mech getting coked up and sticking, this can cause exessive boost, the ECU can detect this and cuts the fuel to protect the engine, alternatively it could be simply lack of boost due to a leak etc which may get worse over time


Something woth considering is that the fault occurs when you "boot" the car/ floor the throttle,(due to driving conditions- eg running around town and its ok, then it "playing up" when you go on the M-way, once the engine is warmed up ) rather than after a certain amount of time, if you follow   

#298159 Shell Vpower Nitro+

Posted by FOCA on 20 October 2013 - 06:26 PM

A lot of independant tests were done and there was no evidence found that it increased economy enough to justify the extra cost - it can increase performance, but more when used on high-performance/ modified cars like higher compression "tuned" engines and petrol-turbo engines running a lot of boost (and barely makes a difference to stock/ regular/ "ordinary" cars) and not more than other higher- octane "premium" fuels from other suppliers    


Nitro+ is almont identical to the old V-power, its just mostly a rebranding/ hype - the fuel has a a slightly higher octane than regular fuel/ about the same as the old v-power, but with a little bit of added detergent - these things could be added (octaine boosters & cleaners) to "budget" fuel



+ you would need a lot more than changing the fuel to make a 1.25 Fiesta quick! - (like an ST engine transplant!) :lol:

#297962 Declaring Mods

Posted by FOCA on 19 October 2013 - 04:29 PM

Ok so just an update guys, I got a letter this morning saying please call Esure customer service department. I was thinking oh god here we go. I could imagine them saying you can't have this, you can't have that.lol.


To my surprise, the gentlemen went away for about 2mins to discuss with supervisor. Total increase in policy £26. So my yearly policy now costs £526 up from £500.

I almost fell off my chair.


He actually didn't know what to class the custom AC/heater controls as, so put it down as an air con upgrade. LOLOL


So im pleasantly surprised, im pretty sure most of that £26 was an admin charge for updating the policy, but hey its a small price to pay versus the cost of the mods.


One thing I can definitely recommend is submit as many modifications in one go, to avoid multiple admin charges, and it confuses them as if they have no idea what the mod is, its seems they don't bother charging you extra lol. Though may not be the same for all insurers.


Nice start to the weekend :D


Result! i wonder if the safety features like the reverse parking sensors >reduced< your premium and it cancelled some of the increases out?


I suppose it depends what you call the mods too  

#297434 You Can't Fix Stupid!!!!

Posted by FOCA on 17 October 2013 - 02:33 AM




And the facebook comments are so polite, sympathetic and respectful :lol:  :lol:  :lol:

#296954 Turbo Kits

Posted by FOCA on 15 October 2013 - 02:08 PM

Insurance would be very difficult to find with that sort of a modification! its hard enough just getting an insurer to understand it has a different engine from a like car, let alone one on steroids!

You could probably get kit car insurance with a high exess and limited mileage, there was a chap on here who was quoted >less< for his modified car than for the same car, but stock -  insurance is a strange thing



If you are under 25 you could, forget it!,


I know someone who is insured for any car, including 1000Hp Evos/ Skylines etc, on motor trader insurance, but not 200Hp Cosworths? weird


When i was looking for a 5-pot-turbo-powered-mk1 Focus, i found this - (a 400+Hp Mk1 Focus RS) -



#296933 Turbo Kits

Posted by FOCA on 15 October 2013 - 12:52 PM


RS MK2 has 300bhp out of the box and 345bhp ish with a remap. Would love to see a MK2 RS lump in a MK1 though what a beast!!  :D

It was a typo - i meant the ST225 - 225 out of the box and 260 with a remap/ no phisical mods it is possible to take the ST to 300+, but it can become unreliable as it does not have some of the parts the RS has, like the oil pump (apparently) i always thought the RS and ST 5-pot engines were very similar but there are important differences, apparently,   


The RS also has trick front suspension  to reduce torque-steer and an ATB (Automatic Torque Biasing LSD) to improve traction where the  ST has a conventional type diff and uses traction control to electronically brake the front wheels (similat to ABS )


The most powerful of the Ford Fucuses with the Volvo 4-pots (the RS500) has 345Hp and 340ft - lbs stock,  i have heard some tuners claim they have got 550/600Hp from this unit, but i have not verified this 


its a lot of power/ torque to put down through the front wheels even with the ATB diff, a Saab engineer once said 200hp is the limit for fwd, the revoknuckle, traction control and ATB help to make higher powe/ torque more managable, but rwd or 4wd would have an advantage at these (higher) power outputs,  


There is someone who has put a Volvo 5-pot turbo (i think it was from an ST225) in a Mondeo mk1 4x4, and apparently, it really shifts,  


Rick - in the "old days" you might have to put a "Q" plate on an - engine transplanted car, the MOT has changed recently and there are all sorts of new rules about "heavily modified"cars, (i colud find out- i know of someone that preps race/ rally/ street cars that is "up" on the new rules) you would probably have to have specialist insurance        

#296832 Declaring Mods

Posted by FOCA on 14 October 2013 - 11:17 PM

If the (external) LEDs are not BS stamped (and within a specific colour temprature) they may not actually be road legal,


Also, the "privacy glass" (or gel/ lint) is liable to bump your insurance up - some companies do not even entertain this/ will not insure if this is done (apparently)


Once you get a reply ant it turns out to be extortionate, ask them for a breakdown of individual items, as some "modifications" may not increase or actually recuce the figure (eg, genuine safety features) - then you can reverse the expensive-to-insure modifications whilst keeping the others,


For example if they want ££££££££s for the tints, you could replace them with removable shades (look just like tints, but are not)


and some lighting modifications may change the premium, others may not, some they may not allow at all (eg illegal bulbs as above)  


Of course, it can differ between brokers  


it will be interesting to see what happens