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FOCA

Member Since 30 Oct 2012
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 09:52 PM
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#294883 Audio Experts Please View, Lenny Requires Sound Advise

Posted by FOCA on 06 October 2013 - 09:59 PM

Foca,
I've found a created and seller of fibre glass side fenders for the Levin,
Weight of original fender is 2.4kg
Weight of fibreglass fender is 1.2kg

Is it worth 240 euro including delivery to reduce the front end by 2.4kg overall?
Mixed with battery relocation I suppose it would be significant,
But as a stand alone mod do you reckon it would benefit?

.
http://s15.zetaboard...7258542/1/?x=50

Thats a difficult question to answer, its quite a lot of money for a small weight saving, (eg, the lighter battery is 4x the weight saving of the wings for a similar outlay) but when i removed my AC radiator (approx 4kgs) on my car i was surprised at how big a difference it made (a noticable difference to the steering) but that 4kgs was in front of the front wheels on a front-heavy car  

 

i would be surprised if you noticed any difference    




#294813 Audio Experts Please View, Lenny Requires Sound Advise

Posted by FOCA on 06 October 2013 - 05:40 PM

Say the 14th November I'll purchase the sub from you mate,
How much
And check out parcel2go.com for a range of prices on shipping,

How would I know if Levin has smart charge?
I doubt it does though as it was built before the ozone cracked and the world became eco

Will get the speaker/ shipping costs sorted - ive found some acoustic foam will sort the rest out soon

 

Update on the smart charge/ lithium battery - 

 

Iv'e been swatting up on the Ford smart charge system and basically the ECU controls the output of the alternator, boosting the voltage when the car is warming up, (using the IAT and engine temp) - it can boost the voltage as high as 16v - this is bad for the lithium battery (or for non silver calcium/ smart charge batteries) as it cant exeed 15.1v  im working on a way round this as thats a big weight saving on the (my) car  

 

Im confident the Levin will not have a smart-charge system, as it does not have an OBD port, it probably pre-dates this, so i recon you can fit the lightweight battery ok      




#294621 Audio Experts Please View, Lenny Requires Sound Advise

Posted by FOCA on 05 October 2013 - 02:25 PM

Thanks mate,
Sorry to read of the difficulty's and hopefully there is a way around this for both of us,
I'm off to work now, I'll catch up later lol
Joys of purchasing car working 6 days a week until purchase date :rolleyes:

350 dollars works out at just about 220 pounds GPB (approx 260 euros ) so the Shorai 2.2kg battery is more affordable than i expected

 

The 15.2v may may not be a problem on the Levin if it does not have a smart charge system, im working on fixing this on the Ford  

 

When would you like the 8" speaker?




#294600 Audio Experts Please View, Lenny Requires Sound Advise

Posted by FOCA on 05 October 2013 - 12:14 PM

Getting back to the battery relocation and difference between light weight ones etc.

I've found a company in the uk called fensport,
http://www.fensport....Category_6/4148
The supply various parts for the Levin, one perticular being a light weight battery, says there 300 exc. Vat but considering the spec, if it was 100% capable of performing just like a standard battery I'd purchase one.

Here's what they say:
Evo 2, Racecar Battery 1.6 kgs
16 Cell, Lithium Ion
Up to 80% smaller than the stock battery
Up to 35 lbs Lighter than the stock battery you are replacing!
Weight 1.6kg (3.5 lbs)
Service life of over twice a lead acid in similar conditions
Designed, developed, and assembled in the USA
Completely dry technology so batteries can be mounted
in any direction
Non-toxic, recyclable, and can be air shipped
Applications for powersports vehicles from 50cc - 2300cc
Tested extensively by professional race teams
Impact and water resistant
Works with the original equipment charging system
No trickle charger required, loses only 10% of charge over a year of static use
Specifications:-
Dimensions : 122MM (L) x 86MM (W) x 148MM (H)
Negative Terminal Location: Left
Terminals 6mm female:- (Optional terminals in accessories)
Weight: 1611 grams (3.5 lb)
Voltage (Charged): 13.6V
Amperage:- 28 Pb-eq A/H
Pulse Cranking Amps: 500 CCA
Operating Environment: -18°C (0°F) to 60°C (140°F)
Charger Time: 15 minutes at 2A
Warranty: Covered by an industry leading 3 year warranty.

IMG_20131005_092202_zpsfff26b6f.jpg

IMG_20131005_092004_zps71bba4d5.jpg

The racing battery is very light but is it powerful enough for a road car - at 28AH its fine for a stripped out race car (no stereo or accessories) - it might be borderline for getting you through the winter (you must include the extra load of the ICE system and any other additional loads on the electrical system- so it may neen a (slightly) higher capacity than the stock battery)

 

The one i was looking at was about 40Ah (36AH), it was a (little) bit heavier at (just over)  2kgs, but cost about the same at £300 (350 dollars) - i will see if i can find links/ pictures data for it - it uses the same technology as that one (L-lion) so its sealed/ does not need vented etc - apart from the cost i have a problem on the Ford - the high voltage of the smart charge system exeeds the max votage the battery can take - this may not be a problem on your Levin

 

36AH 540 cold cranking amps (same cca as the one fitted to my 2.0L diesel Mondeo)

charging requires 13.2v at idle and maximum of 15.2v (not to be exeeded)

 

2.25kgs -  350 dollars -

 

http://shoraipower.c...x36a3-bs12-p126




#294550 Project Sleeper

Posted by FOCA on 05 October 2013 - 02:36 AM

Nice one  - steady on now - you don't want to get "carried away" - painting the steering wheel black is just the 1st step that won't even end even when youve fitted the steel wheels, 1.0L badges and a 5-pot RS motor :lol:

 

Agreed, Honda owners ruin Honda cars, especially type Rs, same thing with BWimmers, nice cars, spoilt by the type of people that drive them (so nothing like Vax**lls then! :lol: ) 




#294511 Can't Decide Between 1.0 Or 1.6 Ecoboost

Posted by FOCA on 04 October 2013 - 09:27 PM

The 3 cylinder ecoboost is a modern, lightweight and compact engine, it is well designed and if properly serviced should last for years, there is no reason it should "give up the ghost" and "it isnt big enough to support the amount of power it uses" does not really mean anything - otherwise stock 1.0L ecoboost engines have been mapped to 150Hp, with no immediate problems

 

How much power you need is a personal choice thing, it depends what you are used to, but i would say coming from a Fiesta 1.4L tdci you would find a 1.0L ecoboost-powered Focus not underpowered, and even "nippy" (reasonably quick)

 

Have you considered a Diesel-powered Focus?

 

Try taking your potential purchases for a test-drive -  to help make your mind up    




#294442 My 1St Ford

Posted by FOCA on 04 October 2013 - 04:29 PM

Hello and welcome - nice to see someone restoring a mk2




#294250 Nothing Like A Close Shave

Posted by FOCA on 04 October 2013 - 01:14 AM

Another chap dropped his current bun he was eating when driving, then crashed his car (drove off the road)  while retrieving it, then addmitted it all in court, thinking he would not be prosecuted because he was not on his 'phone! d-oh!  




#294249 Lenny Purchase A New Whip? Or Get Serious!!

Posted by FOCA on 04 October 2013 - 01:01 AM

Looking sweet mate,
That's a TRD adjustable rear spoiler on that Levin,
There worth around 450 pounds as there not built anymore, complete bargain for that motor mate,
Tail lights fetch around 250 pounds a pair, headlights with indicators 300 pounds,
Interior 130 pounds if in good condition,
Strut brace if standard 100 pounds, but if its a TRD one then its 150 pounds,
List goes on mate, rear spats 150 pounds,

Also just to note,
Victoria has had the broken washing machine replaced today,

Better not crash or bash it then - that would be expensive! :lol:




#294085 Audio Experts Please View, Lenny Requires Sound Advise

Posted by FOCA on 02 October 2013 - 11:16 PM

No worries - that will be some ice setup when its fitted!

 

I like it in the black - suits it (more "menacing")(i know you wanted white)

 

i see you have a new avatar - thats not a diesel engine :lol:




#294022 Audio Experts Please View, Lenny Requires Sound Advise

Posted by FOCA on 02 October 2013 - 06:49 PM

I took pictures of the 8" speaker -

 

high power 8 inch speaker - 400x600 front 001.jpg

 

high power 8 inch speaker 400x600 front side 002.jpg

 

high power 8 inch speaker- 400x600 back 003.jpg

 

The speaker wiegs 3kgs, it has a 2" voice coil (air cooled with a vent on the back of the huge ferrite magnet)  the voice coil is aluminium /polymide, the basket is heavy duty steel

 

The magnet, voice coul is bigger than those found on many 12" or 15" speakers

 

the effeciency is 95db (1 watt at one meter) and it is eight ohms - it has a huge power handling for an 8" speaker (it was the most powerful i could find this size when i built the speakers - 450w )  

 

 

I have hardware / bits like heavy- duty speaker cable, pro-grade audio cable, acoustic foam etc that might be useful to you - and some electronic components like passive infrasonic/ high pass ("subsonic") filters you could use for your front door speakers

 

I may also have sourced a suitable amp for the sub/ rear speakers (online, i don't have it) and will be getting the full amp specs soon   




#294005 New To Fords :)

Posted by FOCA on 02 October 2013 - 05:36 PM

Hello and welcome




#293269 New Tyres On Front?

Posted by FOCA on 29 September 2013 - 12:22 PM

Quoting the advice of the AA-

Generally it's good practice to fit the best/newest tyres on the rear in wet conditions, this favours understeer rather than oversteer.
So if you have the front tyres renewed it's best to have the rear ones moved to the front and the new tyres fitted to the rear.
Tyres with deep tread are less likely to puncture and it's more difficult to control a car with a damaged rear tyre.

+1 - Agreed, my fronts wear out faster (FWD) - when i buy new tyres, i put the the wheels/ tyres that were on the rear onto the front, and put the new tyres on the rear

 

This prevents lift-off oversteer (losing the rear of the car or the car going into a spin) and makes the car more stable in bends, in the wet and at high speed - and in emergency situations like high-speed lane changing -  so is safer

 

If you have a lift-off-oversteer problem caused by more grip on the front than on the back if you are on a high-speed sweeping bend (eg on a wet motorway sliproad etc) and you start to loose the back end, if you lift-off (the thottle) the car will go into an uncontrollable spin 

 

If your car understeers (if you have put the best tyres on the back) the back /rear of the car is very unlikely to let go and it is the front that is liable to slip/ fet go, in the same situation as above when the front "lets go" or slides wide you simply "lift off" or back off the throttle and the front will "tuck in" or stop sliding wide/ the car will slow down but the back end will stay "planted" without "stepping out" or going into a spin - (so is safer)  

 

I know some drivers like a little bit of oversteer but for most road driving lift-off oversteer (on a FWD car) is undesirable because thats just when you need the car to be controllable - and even as an ex- racer & race engineer i prefer the car to be predictable even though im perfectly capable to "catch" the back end stepping out - so my cars are set-up to be neutral to terminal understeer in all conditions - even the tyre pressures influence this  

 

It also means you only have to replace 2 tyres at once instead of 4, as the fronts will wear out a lot quicker

 

The tyre-fitting "monkey" probably could not be bothered switching the tyres around because it involves more work/ time - with only doing the fronts he would only have to take off/ put back on / balance the front wheels/ tyres and not touch tha backs and it means the next time you come in he can sell you 4 tyres instead of 2

 

(a lot (but not all) of these people /places are clueless and talk complete garbage)

 

So my vote is - front wheel drive car = best tyres on the back for safety/ stability     




#293216 My Diesel Has Become A Tractor...... :(

Posted by FOCA on 29 September 2013 - 04:06 AM

Sorry I havnt posted back.
Didnt get any notifications of replies??

Ive just done a 16 hour stint at work so am knackered but will reply properly tomorrow guys..

Bed time



Zzzzzzzzzzzzzz

You should have got notifications - perhaps you should adjust your settings

 

If its any consolation, mine sounds quite loud/ like a really big truck when i start mine up, especially from cold  (straight- through exhaust, no sound proofing, large diameted CAIS, / heavily modified motor etc)

 

Just try not to wake every one up when you start your car up at night from cold  :lol:




#293085 My Mondeo

Posted by FOCA on 28 September 2013 - 10:37 AM

Update -

 

I MOTd the car recently - i always had trouble with the rear brakes /handbrake and last year i gave it to a mechanic to fix,(i hate working on brakes (or gearboxes!)) he replaced one rear caliper and brake caple and it got it through the last MOT but did not work well and kept sticking on - so i just parked the car "in gear"  

 

So before the MOT i replaced the rear caliper on the other side and both handbrake cables (they tend to get stretched and its best to replace them as a pair)

 

So with 2 new handbrake cables, and a new rear caliper, and a year-old one (its incredible how rough it looks after just one year!) i reconed i could get the handbrake working nicely

 

1st i fitted the new caliper,- i clamped the flexi cable and fitted it on, then bled the system - and the (foot) brakes worked well with this

 

When i was under the car i noticed the rust underneath - i kurust and hammerite under the car every couple of years and the hammerite paint was flaking off because it was rusting under that (the rust was not that bad- it dir not require welding etc)

 

To cut a long story short i knocked all the old loose paint off the underside of the car (and suspension and wheel wells ) with a small hammer, wire-brushed it, de-greased it (with detergent) by hand with a scrubbing brush rinsed it and kurust-ed the lot - so now there is no visible/ surface rust on the underside of the car, at all/ it looks black - and next time it should be a lot easier

 

I fitted the handbrake cables, the levers on the calipers go back to the stops (apparently if they don't it can damage the helix inside the calipers and the handbrake auto-adjust does not work(the caliper pistons have to be unwound a certain way too))  i got them all nicely adjusted and then tied the cables up nicely using cable ties (so they did not hang down like they used to) andv i re-routed the cable(s) slightly to keep it away from the heat of the exhaust (this had meler the plastic on the old cable)

 

So the underside was completely rustproofed and the handbrake worked perfectly for the 1st time in years

 

I had also refurbed all wy wheels (got loads) including de-greasing, preparing and  rustproofing and painting (outside and in) all my steelies - i through out some old, worn tyres and replaced them with some i had bought on ebay last year - some turned out to be "lemons" and could not be used, and one if my rims had a split on it - so i have less spares than expected - still plenty though, and it will be a while (probably a couple of years) before i have to buy new tyres

 

I had bought new front discs/ pads as as set (stock genuine Ford) and rear discs/pads in previous years, so they were good, - i considered upgrading them (EG- Focus st225 are bigger front discs) but this would add weight and MK3s all have the same brakes (including the 150mph ST220) and with the car bieing lightened 150kgs the brakes work well (and i dont have a "heavy braking driving style - i like to keep the momentum up- that and the lightness is probably why the brakes seem to last)

 

I had spent weeks under the car, rustproofing it etc, so i decided to stick the car in for the MOT, to see what it needed, -to my surprise,  it passed 1st time with just a couple of minor advisories (the tester was probably distracted to see a 10+ year old car with an immaculate underside :lol: )

 

I bought and fitted the electronic temp controller (for the electric waterpump) the engine  warms up quicker now, and seems to be faster too (and probably has a better MPG) 

 

Now its MOTd i can get on with the serious modifications!