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FOCA

Member Since 30 Oct 2012
Offline Last Active Jul 28 2014 11:05 PM
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#294958 Egr Or Split Pipe 58 Plate 2L Tdci

Posted by FOCA on 07 October 2013 - 01:29 PM

if i drill a few holes in it will the EML stay off

Possibly - but drilling the plate is a waste of time as it defeats the purpose of the plate

 

A solid plate will "fix" a faulty or leaking EGR valve by disabling it  - one with a hole needs to be used with a working EGR valve  

 

A solid plate completely shuts off the carbon/ exhaust outlet from entiering the inlet - so the inlet stays clean, engine picks up better, a drilled plate only cuts it down slightly - so does not work as well  

 

My advice - best option - fit a solid plate and reset your EML now and again, or,  dont fit a plate at all - a drilled plate is a waste of time and the EML may still even come on with the reduced flow on some cars anyway  (so its allowing some carbon/ burnt gasses through AND the EML comes on - worse in every way)




#294883 Audio Experts Please View, Lenny Requires Sound Advise

Posted by FOCA on 06 October 2013 - 09:59 PM

Foca,
I've found a created and seller of fibre glass side fenders for the Levin,
Weight of original fender is 2.4kg
Weight of fibreglass fender is 1.2kg

Is it worth 240 euro including delivery to reduce the front end by 2.4kg overall?
Mixed with battery relocation I suppose it would be significant,
But as a stand alone mod do you reckon it would benefit?

.
http://s15.zetaboard...7258542/1/?x=50

Thats a difficult question to answer, its quite a lot of money for a small weight saving, (eg, the lighter battery is 4x the weight saving of the wings for a similar outlay) but when i removed my AC radiator (approx 4kgs) on my car i was surprised at how big a difference it made (a noticable difference to the steering) but that 4kgs was in front of the front wheels on a front-heavy car  

 

i would be surprised if you noticed any difference    




#294813 Audio Experts Please View, Lenny Requires Sound Advise

Posted by FOCA on 06 October 2013 - 05:40 PM

Say the 14th November I'll purchase the sub from you mate,
How much
And check out parcel2go.com for a range of prices on shipping,

How would I know if Levin has smart charge?
I doubt it does though as it was built before the ozone cracked and the world became eco

Will get the speaker/ shipping costs sorted - ive found some acoustic foam will sort the rest out soon

 

Update on the smart charge/ lithium battery - 

 

Iv'e been swatting up on the Ford smart charge system and basically the ECU controls the output of the alternator, boosting the voltage when the car is warming up, (using the IAT and engine temp) - it can boost the voltage as high as 16v - this is bad for the lithium battery (or for non silver calcium/ smart charge batteries) as it cant exeed 15.1v  im working on a way round this as thats a big weight saving on the (my) car  

 

Im confident the Levin will not have a smart-charge system, as it does not have an OBD port, it probably pre-dates this, so i recon you can fit the lightweight battery ok      




#294621 Audio Experts Please View, Lenny Requires Sound Advise

Posted by FOCA on 05 October 2013 - 02:25 PM

Thanks mate,
Sorry to read of the difficulty's and hopefully there is a way around this for both of us,
I'm off to work now, I'll catch up later lol
Joys of purchasing car working 6 days a week until purchase date :rolleyes:

350 dollars works out at just about 220 pounds GPB (approx 260 euros ) so the Shorai 2.2kg battery is more affordable than i expected

 

The 15.2v may may not be a problem on the Levin if it does not have a smart charge system, im working on fixing this on the Ford  

 

When would you like the 8" speaker?




#294600 Audio Experts Please View, Lenny Requires Sound Advise

Posted by FOCA on 05 October 2013 - 12:14 PM

Getting back to the battery relocation and difference between light weight ones etc.

I've found a company in the uk called fensport,
http://www.fensport....Category_6/4148
The supply various parts for the Levin, one perticular being a light weight battery, says there 300 exc. Vat but considering the spec, if it was 100% capable of performing just like a standard battery I'd purchase one.

Here's what they say:
Evo 2, Racecar Battery 1.6 kgs
16 Cell, Lithium Ion
Up to 80% smaller than the stock battery
Up to 35 lbs Lighter than the stock battery you are replacing!
Weight 1.6kg (3.5 lbs)
Service life of over twice a lead acid in similar conditions
Designed, developed, and assembled in the USA
Completely dry technology so batteries can be mounted
in any direction
Non-toxic, recyclable, and can be air shipped
Applications for powersports vehicles from 50cc - 2300cc
Tested extensively by professional race teams
Impact and water resistant
Works with the original equipment charging system
No trickle charger required, loses only 10% of charge over a year of static use
Specifications:-
Dimensions : 122MM (L) x 86MM (W) x 148MM (H)
Negative Terminal Location: Left
Terminals 6mm female:- (Optional terminals in accessories)
Weight: 1611 grams (3.5 lb)
Voltage (Charged): 13.6V
Amperage:- 28 Pb-eq A/H
Pulse Cranking Amps: 500 CCA
Operating Environment: -18°C (0°F) to 60°C (140°F)
Charger Time: 15 minutes at 2A
Warranty: Covered by an industry leading 3 year warranty.

IMG_20131005_092202_zpsfff26b6f.jpg

IMG_20131005_092004_zps71bba4d5.jpg

The racing battery is very light but is it powerful enough for a road car - at 28AH its fine for a stripped out race car (no stereo or accessories) - it might be borderline for getting you through the winter (you must include the extra load of the ICE system and any other additional loads on the electrical system- so it may neen a (slightly) higher capacity than the stock battery)

 

The one i was looking at was about 40Ah (36AH), it was a (little) bit heavier at (just over)  2kgs, but cost about the same at £300 (350 dollars) - i will see if i can find links/ pictures data for it - it uses the same technology as that one (L-lion) so its sealed/ does not need vented etc - apart from the cost i have a problem on the Ford - the high voltage of the smart charge system exeeds the max votage the battery can take - this may not be a problem on your Levin

 

36AH 540 cold cranking amps (same cca as the one fitted to my 2.0L diesel Mondeo)

charging requires 13.2v at idle and maximum of 15.2v (not to be exeeded)

 

2.25kgs -  350 dollars -

 

http://shoraipower.c...x36a3-bs12-p126




#294550 Project Sleeper

Posted by FOCA on 05 October 2013 - 02:36 AM

Nice one  - steady on now - you don't want to get "carried away" - painting the steering wheel black is just the 1st step that won't even end even when youve fitted the steel wheels, 1.0L badges and a 5-pot RS motor :lol:

 

Agreed, Honda owners ruin Honda cars, especially type Rs, same thing with BWimmers, nice cars, spoilt by the type of people that drive them (so nothing like Vax**lls then! :lol: ) 




#294511 Can't Decide Between 1.0 Or 1.6 Ecoboost

Posted by FOCA on 04 October 2013 - 09:27 PM

The 3 cylinder ecoboost is a modern, lightweight and compact engine, it is well designed and if properly serviced should last for years, there is no reason it should "give up the ghost" and "it isnt big enough to support the amount of power it uses" does not really mean anything - otherwise stock 1.0L ecoboost engines have been mapped to 150Hp, with no immediate problems

 

How much power you need is a personal choice thing, it depends what you are used to, but i would say coming from a Fiesta 1.4L tdci you would find a 1.0L ecoboost-powered Focus not underpowered, and even "nippy" (reasonably quick)

 

Have you considered a Diesel-powered Focus?

 

Try taking your potential purchases for a test-drive -  to help make your mind up    




#294442 My 1St Ford

Posted by FOCA on 04 October 2013 - 04:29 PM

Hello and welcome - nice to see someone restoring a mk2




#294250 Nothing Like A Close Shave

Posted by FOCA on 04 October 2013 - 01:14 AM

Another chap dropped his current bun he was eating when driving, then crashed his car (drove off the road)  while retrieving it, then addmitted it all in court, thinking he would not be prosecuted because he was not on his 'phone! d-oh!  




#294249 Lenny Purchase A New Whip? Or Get Serious!!

Posted by FOCA on 04 October 2013 - 01:01 AM

Looking sweet mate,
That's a TRD adjustable rear spoiler on that Levin,
There worth around 450 pounds as there not built anymore, complete bargain for that motor mate,
Tail lights fetch around 250 pounds a pair, headlights with indicators 300 pounds,
Interior 130 pounds if in good condition,
Strut brace if standard 100 pounds, but if its a TRD one then its 150 pounds,
List goes on mate, rear spats 150 pounds,

Also just to note,
Victoria has had the broken washing machine replaced today,

Better not crash or bash it then - that would be expensive! :lol:




#294085 Audio Experts Please View, Lenny Requires Sound Advise

Posted by FOCA on 02 October 2013 - 11:16 PM

No worries - that will be some ice setup when its fitted!

 

I like it in the black - suits it (more "menacing")(i know you wanted white)

 

i see you have a new avatar - thats not a diesel engine :lol:




#294022 Audio Experts Please View, Lenny Requires Sound Advise

Posted by FOCA on 02 October 2013 - 06:49 PM

I took pictures of the 8" speaker -

 

high power 8 inch speaker - 400x600 front 001.jpg

 

high power 8 inch speaker 400x600 front side 002.jpg

 

high power 8 inch speaker- 400x600 back 003.jpg

 

The speaker wiegs 3kgs, it has a 2" voice coil (air cooled with a vent on the back of the huge ferrite magnet)  the voice coil is aluminium /polymide, the basket is heavy duty steel

 

The magnet, voice coul is bigger than those found on many 12" or 15" speakers

 

the effeciency is 95db (1 watt at one meter) and it is eight ohms - it has a huge power handling for an 8" speaker (it was the most powerful i could find this size when i built the speakers - 450w )  

 

 

I have hardware / bits like heavy- duty speaker cable, pro-grade audio cable, acoustic foam etc that might be useful to you - and some electronic components like passive infrasonic/ high pass ("subsonic") filters you could use for your front door speakers

 

I may also have sourced a suitable amp for the sub/ rear speakers (online, i don't have it) and will be getting the full amp specs soon   




#294005 New To Fords :)

Posted by FOCA on 02 October 2013 - 05:36 PM

Hello and welcome




#293269 New Tyres On Front?

Posted by FOCA on 29 September 2013 - 12:22 PM

Quoting the advice of the AA-

Generally it's good practice to fit the best/newest tyres on the rear in wet conditions, this favours understeer rather than oversteer.
So if you have the front tyres renewed it's best to have the rear ones moved to the front and the new tyres fitted to the rear.
Tyres with deep tread are less likely to puncture and it's more difficult to control a car with a damaged rear tyre.

+1 - Agreed, my fronts wear out faster (FWD) - when i buy new tyres, i put the the wheels/ tyres that were on the rear onto the front, and put the new tyres on the rear

 

This prevents lift-off oversteer (losing the rear of the car or the car going into a spin) and makes the car more stable in bends, in the wet and at high speed - and in emergency situations like high-speed lane changing -  so is safer

 

If you have a lift-off-oversteer problem caused by more grip on the front than on the back if you are on a high-speed sweeping bend (eg on a wet motorway sliproad etc) and you start to loose the back end, if you lift-off (the thottle) the car will go into an uncontrollable spin 

 

If your car understeers (if you have put the best tyres on the back) the back /rear of the car is very unlikely to let go and it is the front that is liable to slip/ fet go, in the same situation as above when the front "lets go" or slides wide you simply "lift off" or back off the throttle and the front will "tuck in" or stop sliding wide/ the car will slow down but the back end will stay "planted" without "stepping out" or going into a spin - (so is safer)  

 

I know some drivers like a little bit of oversteer but for most road driving lift-off oversteer (on a FWD car) is undesirable because thats just when you need the car to be controllable - and even as an ex- racer & race engineer i prefer the car to be predictable even though im perfectly capable to "catch" the back end stepping out - so my cars are set-up to be neutral to terminal understeer in all conditions - even the tyre pressures influence this  

 

It also means you only have to replace 2 tyres at once instead of 4, as the fronts will wear out a lot quicker

 

The tyre-fitting "monkey" probably could not be bothered switching the tyres around because it involves more work/ time - with only doing the fronts he would only have to take off/ put back on / balance the front wheels/ tyres and not touch tha backs and it means the next time you come in he can sell you 4 tyres instead of 2

 

(a lot (but not all) of these people /places are clueless and talk complete garbage)

 

So my vote is - front wheel drive car = best tyres on the back for safety/ stability     




#293216 My Diesel Has Become A Tractor...... :(

Posted by FOCA on 29 September 2013 - 04:06 AM

Sorry I havnt posted back.
Didnt get any notifications of replies??

Ive just done a 16 hour stint at work so am knackered but will reply properly tomorrow guys..

Bed time



Zzzzzzzzzzzzzz

You should have got notifications - perhaps you should adjust your settings

 

If its any consolation, mine sounds quite loud/ like a really big truck when i start mine up, especially from cold  (straight- through exhaust, no sound proofing, large diameted CAIS, / heavily modified motor etc)

 

Just try not to wake every one up when you start your car up at night from cold  :lol: