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Member Since 30 Oct 2012
Offline Last Active Nov 11 2014 01:45 PM

#320557 Best Aftermarket Air Filter For Focus Mk2.5

Posted by FOCA on 12 January 2014 - 09:54 AM


Me too, Although green ones seem to be recommended on this forum cant see there being any noticable difference between the two

They are both oiled cotton types, that can contaminate MAFs (especially if they are over-oiled by the owner after cleaning) and can allow small particles of dust into the engine (not 100% efficient at filtering) - moreso when the filter is new and it has not built up a layer of dust, then it filters more particles


The Green cotton filter has a better bonding process/ design than the K&N that allows a larger surface area (more air/ less restriction) and the green colour allows you to see when the filter needs cleaned,(the K&Ns are black and can get filthy and can get left on cars for years as there owners think they will last forever) - the K&Ns tend to be cheaper, though



On some cars switching to a performance fillter makes is no difference at all (often, the filter is not the bit "holding the engine back" -  as the filter may have a large surface area - ie-the size of a manhole cover - and the main restriction is elsewhere in the induction system) - so adding a K&N is just allowing more dust particles into the engine with no gain

On some cars  there is no actual power gain but an improvement in throttle response 

On some there is a slight increase in HP at high revs (typically 1 to 2 HP) - usually on NA


On some there is no power improvement in the band but a slight improvement in throttle response and reduction in lag and a little more power at very low revs before the turbo spools up (on a turbo, petrol or diesel) 


Ive done a lot of research on this and one of these days i will publish the findings (when i get round to it :lol: )



Im not a big fan and i use a cheap pattern paper filter on mine and change it every 6 months - a new paper filter will outperform (for airflow) an old, clogged "performance" one and filters dust/ contaminants much better - and my engine produces 160+ HP (independantly dyno tested) from the 113HP stock with the paper filter fitted

#316899 Electric Superchargers???

Posted by FOCA on 01 January 2014 - 11:44 PM

The intake of a naturally aspirated car at the throttle body can suck your hand in how in the world is that stupid fan to better that? You'll get more hp cleaning the intake and throttle body

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Ford OC mobile app

I did a little bit of research to see if it was possible, even if the compessor/ impellor was properly designed, the cars'  electrical system would not have enough power to supply an powerfull enough electric motor to make any significant difference


To put it into perspective, a (VW) Corrado g60 supercharger uses about 8Hp of the engines power (belt droven), and thats just a small, 160Hp engine (not a dragster) 8Hp is approx 20 TIMES  the TOTAL output of a typical alternator - so there is never going to be enough electrical power available on a typical car,


possibly on a hybrid (petrol-electric or diesel electric) with a lot of electrical power but  turbochargers are more efficient anyway


Bottom line is the electic supercharger could not work (increase power) on a regular car because there is not enough power in the cars electical system to power an electric motor powerful enough to make any significant difference       

#316650 When Does The Turbo Kick In ????

Posted by FOCA on 01 January 2014 - 02:30 AM



Not impossible - smooth driving has got me an average 60.7mpg over 80,000 miles, measured brim-to-brim with each fill (Mk2 2007 1.6TDCi).  Dropped to mid 50s over the past few months but now better after taking out the dpf.  Managed 65mpg on a 1,000 mile trip from Wales to the south of France last weekend, mainly 70mph motorway speeds with the odd slower section due to heavy traffic.  I've got an egr blanking plate but not fitted it yet - might see a small further improvement after that.


On the turbo question, we seem to have a range of between 1000 and 1700prm for kick-in from the posts above - is there a definitive answer or does it depend on the engine model and the way its tuned?  I used to notice a pick up in accelearation at about 1500rpm, but now it pulls nicely right through the whole range - is this due to the remap done at the same time as the dpf removal?

These turbolag/ power delivery/ boost threshold issues are complicated to explain


1st of all it may seem like the "turbo kicks in" at specific revs, it does not, it depends on factors like temprature, load etc


The turbo will boost completely differently in 1st than it does in top at the same engine revs as the transient or time response is different  and the engine revs do not match the turbo revs


So in 1st, the engine can rev through its powerband quickly (due to the realatively light load) and the turbo can have difficulty boosting fast enough (more about transient response/ (time) than revs) so the turbo may lag behind the engine, in a higher gear, the turbo has more time to boost, as the engine revs through its power band slower, so the turbo has more time to "catch up" with the engine


So some turbo diesels accelerate faster  in some gears than others (and not in the way expected)


The DPF forms a restriction on the output of the turos turbine, removing it allows the exhaust gasses to exit sooner, faster, that makes the turbine spool sooner, quicker, from lower revs, the turbine is connected directly to the compressor - so if the turbine spools quicker the compressor does too - the compressor spinning up quicker allows more boost, quicker, on demand


The same boost control systems are still in place so the peak boost is not increased but the throttle response is improved, and the engine should bull better from lower revs and stronger through the powerband  


The remap should work in conjunction with the DPF delete to make an integrated system/ tune to increase power/ torque through the rev-range the additional energy from the extra fuel added increasing the energy in the turbo, in turn 



Ive dumbed it down a bit because i don't really know how to explain things like the difference between the boost threshhold and "true" turbo lag

#316627 Best Modification You Done In 2013

Posted by FOCA on 31 December 2013 - 11:58 PM

I can't make my mind up which is the best modification on my Ford - the custom Superchips remap probably makes the biggest difference to the car but i like some of the other, more unique/original mods or things that worked well but cost next to nothing

#316617 Electric Superchargers???

Posted by FOCA on 31 December 2013 - 11:37 PM

Has anyone had any experience with these? Are they worth the money? Saw a video on YouTube saying they were a waste of time but thought I'd ask the considerable expertise on offer here!

I wonder how many people actually bought these - probably better sticking to the go-faster stripes! 

#316607 Mondeo Titanium X Sport Build Thread!

Posted by FOCA on 31 December 2013 - 11:00 PM

Recon around 240 ish...

Could you put up the graphs - the most so far with the mk4 2.2L  on these types of mods has been about 220Hp

#314863 Is It Ecu Alternator Immob Or Poor Wiring Helpppp

Posted by FOCA on 25 December 2013 - 05:36 PM

Often when you get many, unrelated fault codes it is voltage (over or under-voltsge) or interferance on the bus, due to a faulty altrnator voltage regulator, faulty or wrong tipe of battery etc or associated systems, this is because the sensors operate at specific voltages and if the voltage fed to them is wrong it can put the readings out (causing random fault codes to be generated)


A bad earth or even a loose connection can generate voltage spikes or interferance also


Sort your CD player and give it a good earth, make sure it is fused properly and take the power straight off the battery (via an inline fuse) if nessesary, this isolates it from the cars electrics (to an extent) and can reduce interference, it can protect the cars electrics too -


Check to see if you have the correct silver-calcium battery and it is good (holding a charge etc) 


You can get an inexpensive LED voltmeter online that plugs into the cigar lighter - a useful investment - you can keep an eye on the voltage in real time then


Keep checking the codes - you may discover a pattern (eg - when you switch the CD player on etc)

#314859 What's This Alloy?

Posted by FOCA on 25 December 2013 - 05:10 PM

Mondeos have 5-stud wheels (often in large, wide sizes, 18" or 19" ) it is unlikely that they will fit your Fiesta (smaller, 4-stud) you might be able to find a similar style, though

#314857 Mondeo Mk4 Starts Vibrating At 60Mph

Posted by FOCA on 25 December 2013 - 05:04 PM

My money is on the DMF if it has never been changed  in 185000 miles and the vibration comes through the seat and accelerator pedal, NVH can also be more than one thing/ things compounding each other  

#314804 Working On The Mondeo With Photos

Posted by FOCA on 25 December 2013 - 12:24 AM

You have a Euro3 Mondeo mk3 TDCI with rear mounted EGR and variable vane turbo - probably a 130PS


Your EGR valve can be blanked with no problem, it will not cause the engine management light to go on or cause an MOT failure etc, it will reduce the amount of smoke and stop the inlet from being contaminated with carbon, best to use a solid, stainless steel plate, you can fit it to the "inlet" side of the EGR valve


The hoses that are bad for splitting are in picture 5


Your (main) problem may be that your VNT (variable nozzle turbo) vanes  are coking up and sticking, it controls the boost pressure level and affects lag too   

#314529 Very Poor Mpg After Egr Blank

Posted by FOCA on 23 December 2013 - 09:15 PM



Hope it works mate, probs like these are irritating and become a hole for money the life of car guys like us, only if people knew what it was really like


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The truth is i do a bit of all of that! :lol:

#313919 What Have You Bought Your Ford For Christmas

Posted by FOCA on 21 December 2013 - 06:46 PM

I bought an ST (TDCI) inlet rubber a while ago and fitted it the other day - its a better shape than the TDDI one but i had to block the breather hole on it  


Still got lots of parts still to fit and work to do/ things to sort out  

#313896 Goodyear Tyres For 1.6 Focus Or Others?

Posted by FOCA on 21 December 2013 - 04:23 PM

Just to update this thread:


So I have had the GoodYear EfficientGrips for about a month now.


They seem smooth, and are nice and quiet. But one thing I am disappointed with is the wet performance - even when the road is slightly damp, wheelspin occurs far too easily. Wheelspin was very rare with my old Michelin's, but on these, even the slightest dab of the throttle causes wheelspin (eg taking off at roundabouts), which is very annoying. Doesn't give much confidence. 


Anyone else experienced frequent wheelspin?

Summer tyres are not designed to work at under 7 degrees centigrade -


At higher tempratures the Goodyears may work a lot better in the wet, pressures are important too, and getting some heat into the tyres (eg higher pressures / driving harder/ warming the tyres up)  


The Goodyears have a high silica content that increases efficiency/ MPG/ longevity and reduces noise but is not as grippy at low temps - unfortunately every tyre is a compromise  


A couple of extra psi could make a big difference becase it helps to get heat into the tyres - improving grip, nitrogen- filled tyres also help, because you can run a higher cold pressure than with air (with the same warm pressure)


keeping the weight forward will help traction too, like if you are carrying a load, keep it forward of the rear wheels, in the snow, i fill my footwell up with 80kgs and detune the engine  - this turns the car from "undrivable" to good in the snow   


With 360+Nm FWD and no form of traction control i get wheelspin all the time, coming out of wet roundabouts, or even in a straight line - all the way up to 80, oops i mean 70, you just get used to it and drive the car to the available grip, its the difference between a "driver" and just someone who drives, just be smoother/ use a little less throttle or short shift when the wheels start to spin

#313813 New Rules On Dpf Removal Starting Feb 2014

Posted by FOCA on 21 December 2013 - 12:07 AM

i dont get this thought that just because diesels are only tested for smoke that this could never change with the new legislation coming in.

ive no idea what they will come up with, but you can bet your last £1 that they are looking for something that goes beyond a visual/smoke test, otherwise they would have already announced that this will be just a visual/smoke check.


i'll say it again...the pressure for more stringent tests goes beyond the government and vosa...there are many powerful bodies out there with a concerned interest in seeing this practice ended.


think about it...DPF is not to lower emissions in the same way a cat is..its there to stop the natural hazardous by-products of diesel burning..these are the particulates


look around europe, legislation has been increased everywhere for many years in everything from industrial engines to smaller than any car motor out there..for longer than this country has been trying to get up to scratch...even the states has been tinkering with this problem since the eighties.


the technology exists to test exhaust systems for harmful particulates...otherwise how would manufacturers release the figures in the first place...vosa have been tinkering with the idea of obd in mot's for years already, at one point it was suggested any current fault codes would fail a test...that was binned when it was pointed out some vehicles produce codes just for plugging in, renault being a prime eg...point is, the idea of going down that route has and probably still is, being floated about.


it really is a tough decision to make to go ahead with deleting, if the system is already failed then may pay to go ahead anyway as anything more advanced than visual/smoke wont happen in feb, but anyone that states it will only ever be a visual/smoke test is kidding themselves.

when you consider the amount of different type systems being fitted, its going to be difficult to know which vehicles were fitted with/without in the first place...but i can even see a possibility in the future that all diesels will have to be retrofitted...dont dismiss that, already talks of diesels without this system being banned from central london.


vosa have got there workl cut out to put in place a foolproof system, in my head, the only way they can do this is to have DPF vehicles tested at specific centres, that could be a very attractive financial proposition for garages willing to invest in the extra equipment required...

whatever they come up with, if its done 'right', the people who may get caught out with this will be in no position to appeal or argue as its already illegal anyway, and you can bet your last £1 (if you didnt earlier) the companies offering the delete now will be pushing much harder than anyone else in offering a refit, only this time they will up their profit margin as they know you no longer have the choice.

Ive heard this all before with cats/ decats and other things


its simply not economic or practical to equip every MOT testing station with special equipment, it may be a good few years untill things are different from what they are now (simple particulates test and visual inspection of the prescence of a DPF, when possible)  


This is a political thing, not a technical one - politically- the government wants to stop people from removing their DPFs, but without the technical means of detecting a DPF is present or not, so a press release is given where they say DPF deletes on cars that had them as OE spec are outlawed but there is no practical way of testing the prescence of a DPF or not >>provided the car does not produce exessive particulates(smoke) and the DPF looks phisically unaltered from the outside/ with a phisical inspection<<, so basically, its propaganda, and it will scare quite a few people from getting DPF deletes 


Governments / eurocrats should not get involved in technical matters - because they don't really understand these things and almost always mess them up- it should be left to the designers/ technicians who know what they are doing  


The overall impact of the presence of the DPF must be looked at, including the cost, materials used and amont of pollution produced to manufacture the DPF/ over and over during the vehicles lifespan,, the extra cost to the consumer of the DPF, the extra poluttion the extra fuel required causes to the enviroment during normal running and during forced regens etc that the presence of the DPF causes etc etc and the exessive consumption a faulty or blocked DPF causes  


Another thing to point out is the DPF does not actually stop a diesel engine producing soot, it only collects it (the engine produces same amount of soot with, or without a DPF) - when a DPF equipped engine gets older, it can produce smoke particles when accelerating, especially in the lower gears (in built up areas/ potentially near schools etc) instead of it being "spread around"  


if a DPF - eqquiped diesel car is used frequently for short journeys, the consumption can go right up, this fuel has to be refined etc, and the overall pollution/ impact on the enviroment may be considerable


Engines (and fuels) need to be developed to the point that something as backward as a DPF is no longer nessesary because the emmisions from the engine is clean enough anyway


Companies and garages will continue to provide DPF deletes (probably for years to come) but they will be officially for "off road use only" (eg for your "track day" 1.6 TDCI :lol: ) - simples  

#313770 Very Poor Mpg After Egr Blank

Posted by FOCA on 20 December 2013 - 08:22 PM

Aw mate dont say that! :D

What do you think could be the problem?
Its so strange how blanking my EGR has had the complete opposite effect to what 99.9% of people experience.
Could it be my injectors out of sync or something along them lines and if so, how do I find that out?
Should I remove the blank and have the DPF removed and ecu remap but NOT remove the EGR software?

Glad (in a friendly way) that yours also sounds like a tractor in this weather! LOL

If you have the DPF deleted that will eliminate that, if that is your problem, if it is something else, at least you car rule the DPF out and look elsewhere for the fault  


Better to blank the EGR, having a working one is bad news for all sorts of reasons, including the inlet getting contaminated/ eventually choked with carbon


Your loss of MPG may be completely unconnected with the EGR and may be simply a coincedance - best to have it blanked, especially if you are going to go for a DPF delete/ remap as you can get the electronic EGR delete done at the same time as your remap