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Member Since 30 Oct 2012
Offline Last Active Nov 11 2014 01:45 PM

#405246 Can I Blank Egr On This Model

Posted by FOCA on 03 September 2014 - 10:16 PM

Ive got a 2.0 duratorq focus and fitted my solid egr blanking plate 2 weeks ago the transformation is amazing with better mpg smoother running and loads more responsive but it put the eml on saying something along the lines of egr high pressure ?. Someone says the euro 4 engine needs a hole in the plate so I started with a 4mm hole which still put the light back on ive went up 2mm at a time and tonight drilled it to 10mm which ive seen for sale on ebay, Ive knocked the light out but wont find out till tomorrow if its going to stay out as soon as u put a hole in the plate its nowhere near as good as a solid blank but the holes still smaller so there must be a little benefit lol.

It is reconed that a holed plate is a waste of time, and defeats the point of the blanking plate


with the holed plate you will still get hesitation, lag and an increase of smoke (potentially contaminating the turbo VNT mech, causing earliy(er) turbo failure, more smoke out of the exhaust or contamination of the DMF (if fitted)) and the inlet (manifold etc) will still get contaminated with carbon from the EGR


My best advice is to  fit a solid blate that works properly to block the exhaust gases, and ignore the engine light or reset it with a code reader now and again (some people do this once a week)


or 2nd best, forget about fitting a plate,


Which is more important - a little light on on your dash or all the above advantages of the solid EGR blanking plate?


Another advantage of a solid plate is if the EGR valve fails / leaks the engine will still run ok (because it disables the EGR)- with a holed plate/ no plate it wont 


it would be good to see back-to-back objective  tests between no plate/ holed plate/ solid plate (eg on a dyno)  


a non - blanked EGR causes long-term problems for the engine, not a solid plate - it saves the engine  

#404411 Tdci Injector Problem

Posted by FOCA on 02 September 2014 - 03:43 AM

I agree with James about the viability/ cost-effectiveness of the car, and whether it is worth spending any more money on, or whether its best to cut your losses, let it go and get a newer car with a lower milage, as the car cannot be worth the money spent and you may be "throwing good money after bad" - as they say 


£1700 (what you considered spending) will buy you a newer car with half (or less) of the mileage - and that car would be worth more so if money had to be spent on it its not "throwing it away" + there would be more life left in it (not coming to the end of its useful life)


 It can be a tough decision to make but you must be realistic  

#403222 Veyron Crash Fraud

Posted by FOCA on 29 August 2014 - 11:35 PM

That's incredible, seen this video years ago never knew the guy was trying to rip off the insurance company but wtf does that have to do with the fbi? ??

Probably due to being in the FBIs durisdiction? due to it being such a large sum of money or due to a technicalaty like its cross states or a mail fraud or something like that  

#403167 If You Didn't Have Yours What Would You Have - Type Only..

Posted by FOCA on 29 August 2014 - 08:51 PM

if practicality/ running/ fuel cost is no object - Ford GT - this one will do nicely -


#403058 Egr Blanking Plate

Posted by FOCA on 29 August 2014 - 02:45 PM

isnt the Wynns step a bit of a mine field?


Im not an expert at all but I've been reading all sorts and the general consensus has been, if you have a new car or its had plenty and regular oil changes then its fine, but if its a bit long in the tooth with unknown oil changes then doing it may give you more hassle as it breaks up all the old crap, which may either lead to leaks or more likely block things up as it comes off and floats about.  I read somewhere that if your going to do it on poorly looked after engines or long oil change intervals, then the first time you'll need to clean it change it, run it and repeat it 2 or 3 times to help reduce the chance of crap getting in to places you don't want it, suggestion was to use cheap oil first for a couple of hundred miles then on the final go put in the good stuff.  Using it after should be fine so they say...

We have to be clear that we are talking about fuel or oil additives, you sound like you are talking about oil additives Lenny is talking about fuel additives (obviously 2 different things)


Fuel additives such as Winnes  cannot clean the EGR valve, or inlet manifold, they can only clean the fuel lines and injectors, combustion chamber etc, the fuel goes nowhere near the EGR valve or inlet manifold on a direct-injection diesel, to clean the inlet manifold (or EGR valve) you need to take it off and clean it properly 

#403050 Egr Blanking Plate

Posted by FOCA on 29 August 2014 - 02:38 PM

Wow just says lynx doesn't say euro 4 or anything,
It may not have an egr fitted mate ill research it further tomorrow

Chances are it has an EGR valve -  




Most cars have them by 2000

#401599 2014 Upgrades

Posted by FOCA on 25 August 2014 - 07:49 PM


I beleive THD less than 1% on the Kappa 4 - means 0,05% :




As for the Class AB vs Class D, at home in a very good listening environment - maybe you are right. Class A - for sure. Still - I own a Pioneer home cinema receiver, with class D - and I beleive it collected top results in every review I have read. And I like it too :)


In a car - with lot of roadnoise etc - and perhaps playing mp3's - spotify - I do not believe it would be an hearable improvement using class AB over class D. 

Ok - i agree with most of that - for most people class D fine and has efficiency advantages when running in a car enviroment, but look at the spec/ quality of the focals - i think that car owners wantling to turn their cars into a high fidelity/ quality enviroment would benifit from the (even slight) quality edge that a class AB amp has over a classD - in my experience a classD amp can get a bit harsh/ gritty at the top end when driven hard at high volume levels, and many musicians, sound engineers, hi-fi enthusiasts etc would hear the difference, i realize manufacturers' are continuing to develop classD designs to bridge the gap to class AB - but for me, class AB has the edge in quality


The difference may be small, and the difference between different speakers (sound quality wise) is probably bigger but with class AB amps available for less than a classD, its a no-brainer (for front speakers at these power levels) for subs or very high power (eg competition) systems,(power/ efficiency over quality) classD may be the way to go


- people debate class D vs class AB -  



#401566 2014 Upgrades

Posted by FOCA on 25 August 2014 - 05:42 PM

Thanks a million for the kind words. It took a while but I am glad I did most of it myself. 


So, thinking that when funds allow, which might be a while, I will get the Infinity amp to replace the Blaupunkt one. Unsure whether I will then keep the Blaupunkt and go passive with the Focal speakers or use the Infinity Amp to go active with the Focal and power the rear speakers with the Blaupunkt amp. Guess I will cross that bridge when I get there.


Massive thanks for all the info given as I have learnt a lot and know that there is still more reading and learning to do. Love how this sound upgrade project started with me knowing very little with the basic stock components in the car and now I have something that I am quite proud out. It still surprises people when they hear it for the first time and that makes me smile :)

The infinity amp is overpriced at £350, and the total harmonic distortion at the rated output is 1% thats (bad) brobably due to the cass D output stage - translation = its crap


The much cheaper BOSS amps are 0.01% total harmonic distortion at the rated output (exellent quality) - i looked at scores of amps to find an affordable one (or range of amps) with i very high spec (including superior class AB output stages ) at an affordable pric- this amp/ range of amps blows many much more expensive amps away (in terms of quality)   


Im not looking at brand names but at technical specs


You could get 2 boss amps, and this active boss x-over -






for less than 1 overpriced (and inferior) amp   - and that would mean you have more left over for another set of focals -


so you could have the seperate active x-over (with fine control of the system) + 2 four chanel amps so the front and rears would be active, 8x (an amp for each woofer + tweeter!) 150w = 1200w so awesome power, headroom and clarity - and a fraction of the price of an equivelant system


PS - yes your sub x-over frequency is low, try 100 to 200hz, see how it sounds, you may need to turn the bass down   

#401554 2014 Upgrades

Posted by FOCA on 25 August 2014 - 04:53 PM

Hi , Hassen, your setup looks great. Great Work I agree with FOCA's advices. But I think class D are totally ok in the listening envirement of a car. Think voltage drop are a bigger concern - class D delivers more power, using less current.


Choosing SQ - active crossovers with time-alignment sure will improve.


The prefab sub looks great. Love the pictures - fun to watch your progress.

I disagree, it may be ok for some that just want to make a noise - but when you want to achiveve hi-fi quality sound in your car - class A-B is better than class D for sound quality classD compromises sound quality for efficiency (better efficiency/ worse sound quality) - classD is OK for subs (because the distortion caused by classD is less noticable at sub frequencies) 


They used to say you did not need CDs in a car and tapes (you know, the crappy, hissy compact cassette) were good enough due to the acoustics in a car!  

#401549 Forum Clock

Posted by FOCA on 25 August 2014 - 04:42 PM

Well if you're on at that time what's to say the others aren't too!  Anyway, shouldn't you be doing other things at that sort of time like, I don't know, sleeping?!

Mummy sometimes lets me stay up late if its not a school day in the morning :lol:

#401394 Egr Blanking On Euro 4

Posted by FOCA on 24 August 2014 - 11:15 PM

Sorry, I know what I read, but is this right? EML light on is NOT an MOT failure?


I want to blank my egr on a Focus euro 4 tdci... from the reading on previous pages mondeo and foci euro 4's are not the same, so perhaps a euro 4 focus might not get the EML light?

The Focus 1.6 TDCI Euro4 can have a solid EGR blanking plate fitted without the EML coming on - many forum members have now fitted one, Lenny has produced a guide -  



#400132 2014 Upgrades

Posted by FOCA on 21 August 2014 - 03:35 AM

   The budget (£118) Boss audio amp has a higher spec and better sound quality than the £350 infinity - t hat is because the Boss has a class AB output stage and the infinity is class D


Class AB has a better sound quality than class D


I dont think there is much you can do without changing components - what is the sub crossover frequency? the levels are meaningless - try changing the subwoofer crossover frequency, and phase - check the realative and absolute phase of all the speakers    


The vibes are just cheap speakers and not up to the quality of the focals - the system might sound better with the vibes  turned down


Listen to a pro studio setup or a high-end domestic hi-fi then listen to the same music i your car to set up the EQ - if you do this it might work better with different music/ tracks if you find youself changing the EQ for different music tracks all the time    



Passive crossovers are not as good as active ones - details are in my previous post(s) - if it was my setup i would ditch the passive x-overs   - i would be happy to suggest x-over frequencies  


Audio proccesors (the bit ten) are for shaping high-end systems - it would be the last thing you buy after you already had everything else - it cannot fix many deficienceis in the system - There is a saying "you can't polish a !Removed!" (i dont mean your system is a !Removed! - it means sometimes, any amout of  E-Qing, prossesors, graphics and fiddling cannot fix some things + it also makes things more complicated )


If you are (reasonably) happy with the system as it is why change it - you could spend 10x as much to get it 10% better - it just depends what you want    

#399468 2014 Upgrades

Posted by FOCA on 19 August 2014 - 01:08 PM

I had to read all that a few times but I think I got it all now. Great to be learning new things. From what I gather and want to achieve, there will be very little difference for a fairly big outlay on a new amp. I am looking at a SQ setup rather than an SPL as you might have gathered. So, I think I am reaching the limits of what can/need to be done for the current setup. Major thanks for writing all this down and explaining it in simple terms. Really appreciate it :)

At some point, if I get the itch and money, I will probably get the Audison Bit Ten just to see what's the fuss about because I keep seeing it being used in builds for Soundman Car Audio, which I am addicted watching these days!




Also, today, I spent a bit of time trying to tune the car to my liking as I thought there wasn't enough bass while driving. After about 1 hr of messing with knobs and using an rTA app, I was able to tweak it to my liking. That is until I get bored and decide to mess with it again :P

Yes, the db is the sound pressure level - so increasing the amp power from 64 to 128 only increases sound pressure level by  3db - not much in absolute terms but it may make a difference in realative terms (eg the extra db may help to drown out road noise) 


i found a budget "non premium brand" amp with a similar spec to the premium brand ones you listed (which are very good/ well chosen) -




it has 4 amps, all with 150w rms into 4 ohms, so would get the maximum out of your front speakers, you could use only 2 of the amps in passive mode, use the other 2 for something else (rear door speakers or extra shelf speakers) or configure the amp for active (the amp has built-in x-overs) using all 4 amps for the front speakers - this would optomise the front speakers


The specs on the amp is as good as the premium brands, imo, but at a lower price (perhaps you just pay for the name)


PS - the amp has class AB operation - less efficient than class D (class D is probably ok/ better for subs) but the sound quality is better - this is a high fidelity amp suitable for your high-end full-range speakers   

#399126 Egr Blanking On Euro 4

Posted by FOCA on 18 August 2014 - 07:34 PM

That's probably the best post I have seen on this subject, explaining in detail why blanking is good.

Even on my old Pajero's, I was always told "blank the EGR" but never why. I never did it


I'm gonna order a plate now :)


Re the dash warning light. Other than remove the bulb, is there any way to fool it?

On a Euro4 Mondeo (Focuses can be different) the EML/ dash light is liable to come on eventually, if a solid EGR blanking plate is fitted, no other negative effects should happen, the EML can be reset with a code reader, many Euro4 Mondeo owners chose to run thir cars like that (with the disadvantage of having to reset thier EML but with all the advantages of a solid plate )


There was some talk on other forums about a remmaper that claimed to be able to reset/ electronically delete the EGR,(so the EML did not come on) this could be done on other cars but not on Mk3 Mondeos - it is possible to do theoretically but no-one supplies a service to bo it (to my knowlege)  


Its the glow plug light as well and it may need to come on and stay off for the MOT, an under-dash "off" switch could be easily be connected (by someone with a knowlege of electrics/ electronics) or the plate removed for the MOT


Ive read all kinds of ideas (some by people that obviously don't know how the EGR works) but the best way seems just to stick a solid plate on and ignore the EML or keep resetting the codes with a code reader on a Euro4 mk3 Mondeo  

#399019 2014 Upgrades

Posted by FOCA on 18 August 2014 - 04:00 PM

Ive made up a chart to give you an idea of the sound pressure levels from the front speakers for the power in 


91db -( 98)- 1w


94db - (101)- 2w


97db - (104)- 4w


100db - (107)-8w


103db- (110)-16w


106db- (113)-32w


109db - (116) - 64w


112db - (119) -128w


So if you measure the output of the speaker at 1w at 1 meter you get 91db, each doubling of power means a 3db increase, because humans can hear wisper quiet sounds to very loud sounds we cannot tell the difference between different levels of loudness in absolute terms and with 64w in its 109db, and at 128w 112db, going from 64w to 128 sounds a big difference, but you will not notice it (as much as you might think) in absolute terrms, (only realative to other sound/ noise) this may be enough to drown out the high-speed noise, if not you will be dissapointed, and this could be an expensive upgrade


in brackets are the db chart for speakers with 98db (1w at 1meter) efficiency (like the ones i use (not in my car - they have 136db potential!), in fact i have 100db ultra-high efficeincy ones)  - the 98db ones are louder at 32w than the 91db ones at128w -


So if you want to go louder you really need to go for more efficient speakers as you only have another couple of decibels more potential from the front speakers whatever amp you use




Active vs passive - in the passive (2way) system one amp is used to power the woofer and tweeter, a passive x-over is connected between the amp and speakers  the low frequencies are fed to the woofer and the high frequencies to the tweeter because the amp has to handle all the frequencies intermodulation distortion is present, the passive x-over has to handle the full power from the amp, and losses occur, other distortions like phase are introduced


in an active 2-way system 2 amps are used (one for the tweeter, one for the woofer) the amps are connected directly to each speaker, so there is no passive x-over to overload, lose power, or introduce distortion, headroom and power handling are  increased,  the crossover is electronic, and splits the sound before it is fed into each amp - so fine control of realative volume and frequency are possible (easily and without power losses) - some amps have (midrange) x-overs built in (sub x-overs are common)


Often the woofer gets a more powerful amp than the tweeter


So basically an amp upgrade is not going to make a big difference (i will try to find those amps for you anyway) to loudness and you need to do something more radical like replace your speakers with more efficient ones (they are nice speakers- your just never going to have your ears bleeding though), fit infrasonic filters and integrate the frequencies with the sub, and/or go active