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FOCA

Member Since 30 Oct 2012
Offline Last Active Today, 01:00 AM
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#382762 Mondeo 115 Remap

Posted by FOCA on 06 July 2014 - 01:29 PM

I run a 2002 Mk3 Mondeo, it started life with 115PS and now has 160+ (at the last dyno run, its probably a lot more as its a lot quicker than it was then - it is estimated to be approaching 200Hp), it has the original "base" engine (internals), injectors, turbo, etc   the DMF was changed to an upgraded SMF/ cabon/ kevlar clutch, + some other parts like waterpump, aux belt upgraded

 

Since the DMF/ starter motor was replaced a few years ago the car has been very reliable, apart from when i kept blowing boost hoses off when i turned the adjustable boost up too much, and another time the fuel filter needed replacing  

 

A remap will tend to put a bit more stress on the DMF, and the injectors, but its not as much as you might think and also depends how hard the car is driven

 

The Superchips bluefin claims about 140Hp more than that would be an exaggeration, or unrealistic with just a remap ( more importantly, though another 42Nm of torque) this is what you can expect from a TDCI115ps, without other mods, the injectors, turbo and other things hold it back, it may have a basic, but reliable fixed-vane turbo (no VNT to coke up/ give trouble) - thats good - mine is a fixed vane

 

These cars have been known to last for 300+k, they were made between 200-2007, so the newest ones are 7 years old now, many were used as company cars, taxis,   don't hold your breath for a low milage one  

 

The 284 to 325Nm (Bluefin claim, analogous to what is achievable with other remaps with that car/ engine) will make a big difference

 

325Nm = approx 240ft-lbs - 240ft-lbs on a diesel is the equivelant of 240Hp in a petrol car at some speeds in certain gears (its just a theory/ opinion- but would explain why diesels are so realatively quick compared to petrol cars with so "little" comparitive power) especially in the midrange/ rollons etc (its difficult to compare petrol vs diesel and the old "bhp" is getting a bit meaningless these days with high- torque diesels)   




#382269 Loss Of Turbo After Stalling

Posted by FOCA on 04 July 2014 - 08:17 PM

Car goes in on Sunday and the garage will rectify all faults at their cost

IcePax
sent using Ford OC mobile app

Good result! - let us know how you get on




#381557 Best Things To Do To Get Good Brakes

Posted by FOCA on 02 July 2014 - 11:30 PM

Ok guys after jumping out of the golf gti into the metal the only thing I really miss is the stopping power I can understand that bigger disks/calipers will be better at stopping so I'm putting it simple

What is the best disks and pads I can buy to maximize the standard calipers power and is it worth getting braided brake lines as well ?

Often the car is a LHD conversion, with the master cylinder on the passenger side and levers and bars to the pedal, if this is the case, it can be difficult to get a really positive pedal feel, as the bars/ levers twist and have some "give",

 

On previous cars with poor brakes, i spent fortunes on braided hose (like Goodrige) different pads/ discs, and re-bled the system to no avail -

 

often i found the stock (genuine) discs/ pads worked better than "performance" ones,

 

The braided hose only improves things if there is a problem in this area - like the old hoses are done - mostly, its for cosmetics

 

And the braking system is like any other system - its the weakest link that holds it back - if the limitation is the discs, no point in changing the master cylinder , often, its a question of finding what the weakest link is   




#381531 What To Buy For My Car To Make A Better Sound?:s

Posted by FOCA on 02 July 2014 - 09:51 PM

Its a remap, it makes the ECU send a tiny amount of fuel through after you've come off the throttle and it then ignites off the manifold and gives a epic pop, bang and crackling.

 

Any decent tuner can make one for you but you'll need to do the leg work on costs.

 

Put into YT Clio 182 Decat pop and bang

 

there will be loads on the of little clios spitting fire out the back of them and terrorising the streets. truly heroic stuff.

Or a load of eejits making a lot of noise




#380248 Mk1.5 Focus Tdci 115Bhp 1.8 Remap

Posted by FOCA on 30 June 2014 - 12:14 AM

This is an interesting question, the answer depends on what your needs, tastes, priorities are

 

If the engine is in good condition and it is sucessfully remapped, there is no question that it will make a significant difference to power/ torque on that engine, so if simply increasing performance is your main priority, go for the remap  

 

It will probably cost a fair bit to have it remapped, (say £200-£400) if there is a fuel saving, it is likely to be small, and it would take a long time to recoup. so if its simply to save money/ fuel, probably not worth it

 

Its quite a high milage, the remap can put the injectors,(due to the increased flow) and other components like the clutch/ DMF (if fitted- due to the increase in torque) and other components under a bit more stress, it depends on your driving style, (how hard you are on the car) and the condition of the components, it is possible the remap could hasten the demise (if, say the injectors or DMF are "on their way out")

 

Other factors come into it, like how much you paid for the car, if you intend to keep the car and for how long, if you intend to spend money on it, and how much disposable income you have available/ intend or ore prepared to spend

 

If youn are happy with the performance or feel you would not need or want the extra performance, you would be as well not to remap it, but it can really "transform" the car, / give it a "grin" factor

 

If you were to get a SUPERCHIPS bLUEFIN, you may be able to transfer it to another car Free Of Charge upto one year after purchase and you have the flexability of being able to remove/ re-load the map whenever you want (for MOTs, snowy roads etc)

 

though it is a bit expensive

 

http://www.mybluefin...18TDCi115ps.pdf

 

It may be worth fitting a K&N panel filter (engine may pick up better from lower revs/ out of the boost ) and the inevitable solid EGR blanking plate (of course) long with giving the inlet manifold a clean out from the mock the EGR valve has previously dumped onto the inside of the manifold

 

And a fuel filter, oil change/ filter and air filter (if you are not fittling a K&N)  

 

The 1.8 is a bit agricultural but is a good, tough engine, already not having a DPF is a big bonus and there is no reason why it could not go to 300k miles, performance -wise it would certainly benifit from a remap but it depends on your priorities / etc




#380048 20 Mph Max Speed, Why?

Posted by FOCA on 29 June 2014 - 07:30 PM

The way things are going all cars might be restricted to 20mph n the future :mellow:




#379466 What A Waste Of Two Young Lives!

Posted by FOCA on 28 June 2014 - 01:52 PM

To be fair 25 and 27 isn't that young and they should know better. It's the need to race on public roads that baffles me especially ones like the East Lancs road such a busy road. Pity it's always the innocent ones that get killed and never the idiots.

 

Me, in reply to Philf1 -

The couple that died was 19 year old lad and a 22 year-old mother, there were 3 cars involved, the two fast Audis that were racing at "upto 90mph" (each with the 25 and 27- year old men in them, that survived) and a Corsa that the couple were in that was "emerging from a side road"   

Sandycat, presumably replying to me in the next post -

I assume you are suggesting they were to blame by emerging from a side road.      Sorry but I don't agree.   In a built up area if the gits are travelling at that speed you can look and there is nothing there and in a split second they have rammed into you.    I don't expect for one moment they drove out knowing those idiots were going to arrive at 90mph.

 

They should be made to live for a few years with big posters of the people they killed on their walls.

 

You assumed wrong - the main thing i was just pointing out to philf1 that the people that died were 19 and 22, and not 25 and 27, and thet there were 3 cars involved, the Corsa "emerging from a side road" was simply i direct quote from the news article   

 

These events often provoke strong feelings and it is easy to jump to conclusions, after being directly involved in incidents like this, i know that the media can get it wrong and it did not happen the way it was reported, so i don't apportion blame or make judgements, but simply repeat/ quote the information available, that was still mis-interpreted.

 

Just to get the record straight        




#378927 What Tyre Pressure Do You Run?

Posted by FOCA on 27 June 2014 - 01:10 AM

I run 39 in the front and 41 at the back,(mk3 mondeo lightened, souped up) on previous cars i always ran 35-36psi, and could feel the difference in grip if the pressures were lower for any reason, i remember thinking  i had damaged suspension because my car was sliding about so much after a 150mile lock-side run (along the Great Glen) - it turned out the garage that had just MOTd the car dropped the pressures (probably for the rollers) - after i put the pressures up the car was back up to its normal (great handling, lots of grip) self - it was autumn and the road was slippery with damp patches under the trees, the higher pressures helped get heat into the tyres (that was on my mk2 )

 

On the mk3 i put the fronts at 39PSI, and the rears at 41, with the weight of the engine and the torque going through the front wheels, the front tyres warm up faster and get warmer/ stay warmer han the rears, as they heat up the air expands and the pressures get higher, the warmer they get, the higher the pressure 39 is the cold pressure, this often  rises about 3psi to 42PSI, the rears do not have as much weight on them, and do not have all thay torque going through them, so do not heat up hardly at all (or much slower) so it takes ages for the pressure to build up, it often does not go much above 41PSI even though starting with such a high pressure helps to warm the rears up more

 

The disadvantages of running such a high pressure are, you get a harsher ride, and you may wear out the middle part of your tyre faster than the "shoulders" especially if you drive a lot on M-ways, and not drive hard on twisty roads - i have read that very high pressures can put shock loads through the suspension, but so can low pressures if the rim is hit hard

 

The advantages of higher pressures are - less rolling resistance, so better MPG, and often even a higher top speed! (yes, really) better grip in cold/ wet conditions, less drag on the front  wheels when parking (so the steering wheel is easier to turn, and/ or it puts less stress on the power steering/ components) - the steering / handling has a more "direct" feel, and the car is more responsive (eg, turn in, s-bends etc) the higher pressures help support the tyres sidewall, so the tyre maintains its shape better during very hard cornering, or in some emergency situations - if you corner hard you are less liable to wear out your outside front shoulder tread so quickly - your rims are protected better from pot-holes, kerbs etc

 

It depends on the car, tyre, drivers preference, load in the car, driving style - tyre pressures are only a guide, and only "recomended" and there may be one (low) set of pressures for "normal" driving (read, popping down to the shops) and another higher set of tyre pressures "high speed / heavily laden" (that would be for me, then)  :lol:

 

Remember "recommended"        




#377438 Genuine Ford Parts Vs Motorfactors

Posted by FOCA on 23 June 2014 - 11:55 AM

Yeah I would normally replace with ford or more superior parts, but with something as specialised as a front control arm I don't know any decent brands!

I could get poly flex bushes but it requires a lot of effort to press them in and I don't have the tools or know how. I would rather just replace the arms so it sorts everything out at once.

Ford quoted me £500 for parts & fitting is this a reasonable price?

Does anyone have ford parts software that could price a set of oem control arms?


Sent from my iPhone using Ford OC mobile app

Seems expensive to me - try an independant/ garage/ mechanic (you could still buy the parts from Ford) (i used to work for Ford- all i ever use the local main stealers for is ocasionally getting some parts with my trade discoult, any work i dont do myself i go elsewhere, if i had a nearly new car (Less than 3 years) it may be different, though)

Use Google!




#376512 Trust Ford

Posted by FOCA on 19 June 2014 - 09:18 PM

When i read the title i thought it was a sarcastic coment about something going horribly wrong with your new car eg-

 

Trust Ford! :wub:




#376323 Cheating On Your Theory Test - Fail

Posted by FOCA on 19 June 2014 - 12:20 PM

I agree Vicki, a fine and a ban from taking the test for a set period would have sufficed.

 

Reserve prison for those that deserve it the most

He recieved a caution,  he could have recieved a 26week custodial sentence for the offence trhough,  




#374400 What Can I Do To Make My 1.6Tdci Fiesta A Tad Quicker.

Posted by FOCA on 14 June 2014 - 12:10 AM

Probably the no1 thing is to get it remapped (including Bluefin)

 

Blanking the EGR with a solid plate will help a little too

 

After that the modifications get progressively more expensive and/or  tend to have less effect   




#373532 What Can I Do To Improve Power In 12 Plate Fiesta 1.25?

Posted by FOCA on 11 June 2014 - 02:57 AM

Thanks for your replies everyone. Ok so the general opinion seems to be that it's possible to improve performance but no point due to cost and hassle. Can I ask if anyone knows how much it would cost to - taking the first example given - put an ST engine in the 1.25, and all other necessary replacements to go with the engine? Are we talking over £5,000 or something like that? Otherwise I'm not sure why people are saying that it wouldn't make financial sense to do so - is it not better to pay a few grand to upgrade current vehicle rather than trade in and lose money on both trade in value and more expensive newer car? 

 

 The car that I inherited (long story), is a 12 plate Fiesta 1.25 with 20,000 on the clock. I've just started a new job where I will now only be doing 3-5,000 miles a year. I like everything about the Fiesta except the power and intend to hang on to this car 5-10 years if I can so can someone explain how it'd be cheaper to change car than alter current one? Are the costs of change and higher insurance costs really that high? Again, sorry for not having a clue but I'm glad to be learning :)

I think we have given you the best advice based on our experience etc, so we have told you its a waste of time trying to get more power out of the 1.25, and you would have to do an engine swap  

 

"engine swop" is easy to say, or to write, but its a little bit harder to do, there is a whole lot more to it than you 1st expect, and you need a lot more from the donor car than you might think at first  - you might as well buy a whole ST to get the parts you need (i cant be bothered listing everything you need - its a long list and a lot more than just the engine components)

 

If you can't do the engine swap yourself you will have to get someone who knows what they are doing to bo it, and will probably have to pay them  

 

Then, the insurance will be even more than an ST, you may not be able to get it insured, and it may not drive/ run as well as a factory/ bought ST  

 

You do what you like,  but you would be going to a lot of hassle/ spending a lot of time/ money on a car that probably would not even be as good as a bought ST - a pointless exercise in my opinion - but if thats what you really want to do - its your choice, we are only offering advice

 

You seem to be attached to your car - We can all get attached to our cars but at the end of the day they are really just  are just lumps of metal and plastic, - now, if you could have any car, money-no-object, what would you have?  




#372769 Advice

Posted by FOCA on 09 June 2014 - 12:52 AM

Ps FOCA is this you? Lol

http://www.dailymail...17-SECONDS.html

Yes - but lets keep it our little secret :lol:

 

Actually my toy is black and its a little bit quicker than that!

 

(35k to build a car that does 0-60 in 17seconds! - and the big deal they make about that "staggering" acceleration :lol: )

 

its good fun, though - reminds me of a beach- buggy




#372755 Advice

Posted by FOCA on 09 June 2014 - 12:01 AM

Probably due to all the local DVLA offices closing -

"progress"