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Member Since 30 Oct 2012
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 08:05 PM

#399001 Fed Up Of "surface Dressing"?

Posted by FOCA on 18 August 2014 - 03:03 PM

Also it raises the height of the road itself blocking off drainage etc, did it down my road and the surface spilled over onto the pavement a few houses down.


It's also dangerous to brake on sharply if a child runs out in the road etc, noise pollution is increased, trucks make groves in it within 10 seconds which again when it rains they fill with water and cause a hazard to motorists, there are no lines painted on them for weeks which in the event of an accident makes it harder to dispute fault if applicable, It's harder for me to speed on, very dangerous for cyclists not just Mbikers can't really take a road cycle onto gravel now, it's more difficult for Old dears with Zimmerframes / wheelchairs to cross, dogs crossing the roads may hurt their feet.


Also what I fail to understand, partly made from Bitumen, is subject to COSHH regulations and only to be handled with appropriate PPE...so members of the public can freely be forced to make contact with it and not be told of it's potential health issues? the HSE have forgotten a few things when it suits them.

Shhh - it will be our little secret - i don't think anyone else noticed :lol:

#398813 2014 Upgrades

Posted by FOCA on 18 August 2014 - 06:35 AM

Small update. I have had the new setup for a few weeks now and I think the speakers are well broken in. Still not 100% satisfied as on the motorway, the ambient noise levels are quite annoying. Apart from that, I am very happy with the sound quality in the car. 


I have a few questions though:


1. My current amp is rated at 70W rms x 4 channels. My Front Speakers are rated at 80W rms (Focal 165KR). Will I notice any improvement by upgrading the amplifier? Reading up online, suggestions was to have an amplifier pushing around 120W rms to extract the most of my speakers. If this was true, any 4 channel amplifiers that you guys could recommend that will not break the budget? 


2. Been doing a bit of research online after hearing about the Audison Bit Ten processor. Very tempted to get one. Any thoughts about it? 



Next planning to try to record the current system in 1080p and also get more Silent Coat to lay on the floor of the car.

Hi! -


The Focal 165krs are very high end speakers, they have the flattest frequency response of any car speaker i have seen, they seem to be built for quality, and although not inefficient at 91db, the cone material is optomised (and probably the overall design) for sound quality rather than efficiency (or maximum loudness)  they are 4 ohms, 80w nominal and 160w peak - the kapton former and quality construction means the power ratings are probably conservative, and they could be driven hard (but not into clipping) for long periods with no trouble BUT - you won't notice a big difference (as much as you might think) between 70w and 120w as the increase is less than 3db


Are you using the passive crossovers on the front speakers? - active crossover(s) and seperate amps can increase power, as well as reduce  intermodulation distortion and the distortion introduced by the passive crossovers (generally clipping/ overload distortion and phase distortion) - if you used the 70w for the tweeter and 120 for the woofer (190 in total - you would need an active x-over though) that would noticably increase power (and quality) - dont forget to check the power output realative to the ohms (varies)  


It is possible to fit an infrasonic filter to cut the low bass on the front speakers - this can increase power handling/ headroom on the amps and speakers + reduce multi-point phase distortion from the various different low-bass sources, - the sub would handle all the low bass, the speakers and sub x-over would have to be matched and carefully set/ selected and the sub would have to be powerful  


If you could describe in detail your complete setup and the way it is wired


I have found a low cost but high-power (not super high-end but decent) amp manufacturer online but have lost it again (cant even remember the name - nothing id heard of before but the specs were good) :(  - i will see if i can find it again


Processors are great but you are only as good as your weakest link and if you have any underlying deficiencies (like its not loud enough, or the bass isnt deep enough) it will still show through, best to get the core system sorted then add a prossesor (in my opinion)

#398188 Has Anyone Had The St250Rs Kit On Their Focus St

Posted by FOCA on 16 August 2014 - 03:19 PM

Has anyone has their focus ST upgraded with this kit? If so could you tell me if its worth it or not and give me some 0-60 times.


This is the kit im talking about: http://www.pumaspeed...lus-bhp_566.jsp





Edit (I meant 350rs kit in the title.)

£5000 pounds is a lot of money, its still a modified ST225,(it is unlikely it will increase the value of the ST225 as much as the cost) you would be better off buying a genuine, factory made Focus mk2 RS  


The Mk2 RS has a lot of design changes that the ST225 does not, like it has an ATB (automatic torque biasing) diff, this is an advanced type of limited slip differential that can distribute the torque to the 2 front wheels (basically so both front wheels grip instead of just one(the one with the least traction) ) - the ST225 (and this expensive kit) has to make do with a regular diff + a traction control system that can brake the front wheels (not as effective as an ATB)


So in terms of value for money, depreciation, and "go per pound" you would be better off with a (real) Focus RS mk2 han wasting your money on this kit, in my opinion   


With all that power going through the front wheels and no limited slip diff or ATB, the 0-60mph is not going to change much - i have figures for the ST225 and the (Factory) RS the 0-60 is similar, even though the RS is more powerful, - only at higher speeds is there a big difference  


with the ATB (+ other things) and more power (than the pumaspeed ST) the RS is better -


RS mk2 - 400 bhp / 2010 / low milage £23000 -



#398171 Egr Blanking On Euro 4

Posted by FOCA on 16 August 2014 - 02:19 PM

There are many misconceptions about EGRs blanking plates etc -


#1 - you might think a working EGR valve would be best for your car/ engine, as this was how the car ws designed - WRONG:- even a brand new EGR valve in perfect condition contaminates the inlet (including the manifold, inlet ports etc) with carbon, causes hesitation, flat spots etc - a working EGR valve is BAD NEWS for your engine


#2 even if you clean out your inlet manifold (this requires taking it off and cleaning it with petrol and/or a high powered jetwash) every so often, if you are running an unblanked EGR it will eventually just fill up again - this can "choke" the engine - once you fit your solid plate and clean out your inlet manifold, the innlet manifold will stay clean - so no need to continually clean it out


#3 the whole concept of recirculating exhaust gasses (a waste product) and feeding them back into the inlet is a bad one, diesel engines run best on clean air, and diesel - not exhaust gases - its a bit like a human eating his/her waste - not good


#4 on modern deisels, the EGR valve opens only at part-throttle at lower revs - this is when you get the flat spot (aka hesitation or lag) when the enine ingests burnt exhaust gases instead of air (the burnt exhaust gases reduce or prevent combustion because they do not contain oxegen like air does)


#5 Any emmission control system that reduces MPG (even by a small amount) may have a worse long term effect on the enviroment due to the enviromental impact of having to produce more fuel - a diesel without a DPF or EGR is more efficient, energy and resources do not have to be used to produce the DPF/EGR, + when the DPF/EGR get filled up/ old or faulty, tey can have a worse effect on emmissions than not having one.


#6 - often, these things are political rather than technical, eg eurocrats/ politicians say "look what we are doing to help emmissions/ the enviroment" - even when they don't really work


#7 - when the car/ engine is new, the EGR valve may help emmisions, (but even then has a negative effect on MPG, performance efficiency, and that extra (even small amount of) fuel (multiplied by all the cars fitted with an operational EGR valve) can have a worse impact on the enviroment compared to not having an operational EGR valve - as the car gets older the inlet gets choked up, further reducing MPG, performance and efficiency, and increasing smoke output (or choking up the DPF, if one is fitted) this is even assuming the EGR does not fail, as if it does things can get much worse than that (with a leaky or permenantly stuck open EGR valve the car can produce a smoke screen james bond would be jealous of)


So the long term negative effect of fitting an EGR valve in the 1st place (or running without a blanked/ disabled or deleted valve) may be worse than running with a solid plate(etc), on the envioroment , as well as definately for reliability, elimination of flat spots hesitation and lag and preventing the inlet being contaminated


#8 after a solid plate is fitted there is no problem with moisture/ rust, draining water as the EGR valve is disabled anyway


#9 it is not nessesary to fit the solid blanking plate on the EGR cooler on a mk3 mondeo diesel, it can be fitted next to the EGR valve you can get solid plates that slot in (you don't even need to take the nuts off, just loosten them) - a solid plate is essential, ones with holes defeat the purpose of the plate, the EGR valve must be working properly to fit plates with holes, a solid plate can "fix" a faulty/ leaking EGR valve, by effectively disabling it - 2 solid plates can also be fitted (one next to the EGR valve, another next to the cooler) and the egr pipe removed


#10 the EGR valve has a design fault - it exists!


I am an engineer, I designed/ developed the first EGR delete kit for rear-mounted EGR Mondeos,about 9 years ago then improved the design, this has been copied and made into a commercial product, i have been an advocate for fitting solid plates and have advised and encouraged forum members to fit solid plates, and have helped to promote the resurgence of interest in the subject


I collect information on the subject and listen to feedback from members/ Ford owners that have fitted solid plates, i try to discourage misconseptions/ misinformation about the subject, especially from those that have never fitted a solid plate or understand the princepals etc


I suppose with the 9years of running without an EGR valve (i don't and wouldent have one on my car, i sold mine on ebay years ago!) + designing the delete system + following the subject for years + my technical knowledge = my involvement in advising/ discussing fitting them on the forum must make me an "expert"


I understand others have their opinions - and they are entitled to them, it is a subject i feel strongly about and don't mean to cause offence, of even to discourage members to express their opinions or to debate this, or other topics

#397609 My Son's Ordered A Fiesta St3

Posted by FOCA on 14 August 2014 - 08:41 PM

You'll have to convince your daughter to get a red ST, that would look awesome on the drive away with a blue and white one, lol.


I didn't think it was going to be long the way you had been talking. Is he going to get a white engine cover?

The red white and blue was exactly what i was thinking - like the minis in the italian job :lol:

#396877 Up Coming Tax Changes

Posted by FOCA on 12 August 2014 - 09:24 PM

It's a similar story when selling cars to dealers at the moment.  When I sold my last car I asked them if it's easier for me to just leave it taxed and have them give me the cash to the value of what I would have reclaimed, but they said I needed to reclaim it and they would then retax it.


All I can think is it's a way for them to make a bit more money from it - unless you sell the car on the last day of the month and the next owner buys it the following day the DVLA get paid twice for the switchover month.  Once in your original money that can't be reclaimed and once for the new guy retaxing it!  I see no other reason for doing it.

There is another reason for doing it - 


If you buy a car,/ if it changes hands -  it must be MOTd, and insured  before you can tax it,  this must be done straight away


It may be to prevent forms of fraud, and to stop people running about in uninsured cars that had tax left over from the last owner

#396863 New To Mondeos

Posted by FOCA on 12 August 2014 - 09:07 PM

Nice one! - welcome to the club!

#396692 Engine Sounds Lumpy!!!

Posted by FOCA on 12 August 2014 - 11:00 AM

Was the soundproofing the underbonnet insulation? this can cut the engine noise down as well as help to keep the heat in the engine (can be important on a diesel)  you may also now be hearing the tappets or the noise of combustion ("diesel knock")


Often diesels run better on the stock airbox - especially if the induction kits draw warm/ hot air from  under the bonnet - + trying to make a diesel sound  "sporty" results in it sounding like a traktor, unfortunately

#396131 Help A Newbie With First Modifications ?

Posted by FOCA on 10 August 2014 - 03:47 PM

They tested a fake tuning box - this does not mean all tuning boxes are no use - i fitted a DTUK box to my mondeo diesel - it made a BIG difference and still has more bottom end grunt than my Superchips bluefin remap, (even after stage/ revision3)


Some tuning boxes are fakes (do nothing at all - like the one in the video) some are just resistors that fool the ECU that the engine is cold (IAT ones) - some connect to the fuel pressure rail sensor  and up the fuel pressure -


But others are serious alternatives to remaps (often with the price tag to match) with multi user-selectable maps, multiple channels (some with direct control over boost) and can produce as much power as a remap,


Comparing a £7 "ebay resistor special" (it looks like a chip!) tuning box to a £400 digital tuning box is like comparing a model T to a 2014 ST - there is no comparison   


I think for some, tuning boxes are an alternative to remaps, as they have some advantages

#396129 Modifications

Posted by FOCA on 10 August 2014 - 03:30 PM


If it's anything like the Focus sound system (I can see reasons why being a Ford, it would and reasons why it wouldn't be the same) then I know what you mean - one thing I wouldn't mind is a touch more bass, I like my rock/metal and I think a smidge more would be nice, so I'm looking into a cheap sub that I can easily take in and out of the boot when I need/want..

I dont now if it is because the system is better or the acoustics are superior but the stock Mondeo system sounds quite good

#396109 Mondeo Tdci 130. Focus St Intercooler Upgrade

Posted by FOCA on 10 August 2014 - 01:41 PM

Its the old 2.5 - but its not an upgrade, my information is it will restrict the Mondeo, as the stock mk3 (Mondeo diesel) intercooler has 2-14" inlet and outlet , all the MK3 diesels have the same intercooler, from the 90PS di to the ST-TDCI - the ST-TDCI has 155PS and can produce 180+Hp and 400+ Nm with the stock intercooler  


Best to discuss your present and future modifications, how much you wish to spend, etc etc, like changing the intercooler is a waste of time - a remap or tuning box will make the biggest difference, followed by a back-box delete, decat, EGR blanking, resonator blanking, in that order (biggest to smallest improvement) 


Once you have done all that, an intercooler upgrade may be worthwhile (but not a stock Focus ST one)


It gets a bit complicated/ technical when you statt talking about pressure drop, internal volume, thermal inertia etc


edit - here is another post with more details - http://www.fordowner...-advice-needed/

#396088 Mountune Booked :)

Posted by FOCA on 10 August 2014 - 12:31 PM

So just been out to Gatwick and back with the mountune hose and defiantly the stock hose sounds better , you can really here the induction noise and hiss clearer with stock hose. I'm undecided on pickup / throttle response between stock and mountune hose . Is it worth 100 quid, doubt it now I've tested it a bit maybe get the 50 quid one from js

If the stock hose is louder it can be deceptive and give the illusion of more power, if you are timing the 0-60etcyourself  its difficult to get consistant results, and the differences (of the 2 hoses) small   


To truly test the difference between the stock hose and Mountune hose you need back-to-back testing on a dyno, which of course is what Montune have done


The map usually gives a much bigger performance increase to the hose, which may be quite small


I know some owners like a loud car or one that pops, bangs growls or hisses, for me, noise is an unfortunate side-effect of free-flowing induction, exhausts etc, and i try my best to keep the noise down to acceptable levels without compromising performance (the opposite of what some others seem to do on the forum)         

#395678 Advice?

Posted by FOCA on 08 August 2014 - 09:08 PM

Its not cheap but there is the pioneer "spare wheel" sub -




it fits inside the spare - you just relocate the jack/ bits (it has quite a beefy  sound (they say)


so you can keep your spoare wheel


you may be able to pick a decent one up at a good priice seconhand online 


or one of the slimline powered underseat subs ( you could put it in the boot) -



#395650 Help A Newbie With First Modifications ?

Posted by FOCA on 08 August 2014 - 08:12 PM

Hi guys

Would you be kind enough to give any help into what I should be upgrading on my car, I'm thinking about getting a remap done but not for a few months. I basically want the car to have better acceleration, I have a 63 plate Focus zetec sport 2.0 TDCI 160BHP powershift. Once it's out of first gear it really shifts it just seems a little sluggish off a standing spot.

I would have a guess and say a new exhaust and good air filter are a must but have no idea what make is best. (I would not be fitting these myself) Any good web sites ?

A remap or tuning box will make a big difference, exhaust will make a small difference, air filter will make little or no difference


simply sticking a tuning box on (without other mods) will increase the PS from 163 to 199, and the Nm from 340to 410 - DTUK -




its not cheap at about £300 but cannot be over-written like a map can and can be removed for services (dont know if its undetectable)  


Or you could go with a Superchips remap  


Its your choice whether you wish to void the warranty or not


Diesels can often be sluggish off the line, even powerful ones  (copmpared to petrol cars)- its a mixture of (realatively) narrow powerband, low rev-limit, low gearing, and the power may be restricted in the lower gears to protect the trans etc etc   

#395325 Blanking Off Egr Valve?

Posted by FOCA on 08 August 2014 - 03:47 AM

Hi Leonard,


I'm getting a new stainless steel pipe (from Turbo to EGR) fitted tomorrow and the EGR valve cleaned out. After that I will put a blanking plate in, the only way to go.

I have had the dreaded flashing glow plug and management light on (limp mode) recently (fault code P2263). I thought I would rather start with getting the pipe sorted first as it's broken, maybe a good starting point to my problems? I can even smell exhaust fumes in the car, which has been irritating me for a while now.

Cheers for your help.

No point in cleaning out the EGR valve or pipe, as nothing will flow in it anyway with the blanking plate fitted


Also, the pipe is not nessesary and does not do anything, once a solid plate is fitted, removing the pipe increases efficiency (you will need solid plates at each end, though).


The bit you need to clean out is the inlet manifold, the air the engine breathes with goes through this, the EGR valve often fills this with carbon, choking it


If you have a Euro3, you can fit a solid plate with no EML, with a Euro4 Mondeo, unfortunately the EML may come on, this can be reset with a code reader, -  you can have front EGR Euro3 and Euro4, there are several configurations