There is no way you can make a low-revving 4-cylinder diesel sound "sporty"
I have a 2.0L Mondeo diesel, it has a (things that make a difference to the sound-) gas-flowed airbox (underbonnet cone filters (k&ns) draw warm air/ loose power especially on a turbo-diesel) 90mm CAIS, fixed-vane turbo with wastegate, 2- stage drift racing microprossesor controlled adjustable boost controller with 100psi solenoid, resonator bypass, drag racing lightweight intercooler with waterspray, total EGR delete with shorter hoses,, decat, gas-flowed downpipe, both heatwrapped, back- box delete but straight-through mid-box retained, shorter and straighter (2-1/4") exhaust
in the summer i take the undertray and underbonnet insulation off, ive just put them back on and its noticably quieter
To give you an idea how quick the car is, i was coming home the other day, there was an st225 going the same way, i caught up to it and it "booted" it, - i kept up with it / sat behind it (as it was accelerating) untill it came across another car when i overtook both cars, (i wasnt racing, i was just hungry and wanted my dinner/ legak speeds, of course! ) the Mondeo diesel and the st225 seemed to have identical acceleration - the thing is my car is not running right, i have a bit of a boost leak and i have the boost controller disabled, and am down on power, ive not bothered sorting it as i have a new inlet manifold and boost hoses to fit
I will get to the point -
when i start the car in the morning (from cold) it sounds like a tractor, or a loud taxi, as it warms up and i drive it normally, it sonds like a big van or truck, (not "sporting") - only when accelerating flat out does it have a deep roar (mainly from induction, but a bit from the exhaust)
But it still does not sound even as good as a small engined petrol car (even a corsa)
Ive even quietend it down a bit (because it just sounds stupid/ draws attention to the car)
you can make it sound better but i dont think you can really get a diesel to sound as good as a petrol- engined car - sorry
For example, they can be easily removed, and are usually untraceable so are popular with lease/ company cars etc, or if the car is under warrantee - the tuning box cannot be ereased via a firmware update (like a regular remap can)
The ease of removal can be useful for other reasons, like if you have to drive in the middle of winter on icy, snowy unsalted roads, or you want to reduce the power to teach someone to drive, or put the car in for a service, valet etc, or lend the car to the wife, etc
A regular remap is stuck on the car, cannot be easily removed, and has no resale value, a tuning box can be resold, so althoug a high-end tuning box may be expensive (approx £250-£400) they have a resale value, so in reality are a better investment
A proper high-end tuning box is a serious alternative to a remap, they may have digital microprocessors, multiple cannels and multi-maps, some are fully configurable, some have direct microprossesor control over boost pressure
Comparing a £7 ebay "resistor special" tuning box (connects to the cars IAT to fool the ECU into thinking the car is colder, thus sqirting more fuel in) to a £400 high end tuning box is like comparing a red Corsa to a red Ferrari (eg tuning boxes are rubbish because my mate bought one off ebay for £7 and it was crap/ all red cars are crap- ridiculus - right? but tuning boxes get a bad rep because of the cheapo fake boxes)
I had a DTUK box (sold for £400, but now sells for about £320) fitted to my Mondeo diesel, it made a big difference to the power/ torque, it was custom modified with a remote adjust (so i could turn it up/ down easily/ quickly) this was carefully tested/ set for maximum acceleration (alongside other mods)
With the tuning box/ other mods the car was very fast and had incredible torque from very low revs, it would pull away easily in 2nd, and junctions etc that you would expect to take in 2nd, you could take in 3rd, floor it in almost any gear, the car would leap forward (even from low revs)
I reconed i could get a bit more out of a remap so ordered a Superchips Bluefin, after fitting it i found the engine had more topend power/ revs but a lot less bottom end grunt than the tuning box, Superchips made a revised map for me, it was a bit better but still not as much grunt as the tuning box, i talked to them and they revised the map for a second time, to get the optimum grunt/ and to match the other modifications (drag racing intercooler with waterspray, 100psi 2 stage digital boost controller, straight through 2-1/4" exhaust etc ) - even then the Bluefin still did not have quite as much low-down grunt as the tuning box
the top end power is very good though and the car "flies" - i dont mean really flies
i can run the tuning box and blufin remap together for track days, drag racing dyno shootouts etc but im runni9ng it with just the Bluefin so i dont push the injectors/ turbo tioo much untill i get a spare engine so i can really "push" it i need to get an ATB/LSD for drag racing and i have to live in the real world like getting the car MOTd and i have other plans too
Nothing wrong with a good tuning box and i would recommend one (DTUK, roverron, other quality ones etc etc)
Im just wanting a littl more power trying to explore ways of making the most out of my car
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The best, simplest and most cost-effective way of increasing your power/ torque (on a turbo car) is to remap the engine, this can "transform" the way the car drives, turning an underpowered car that is a chore to drive into a car that is a pleasure to drive
often, on a turbo diesel, the mpg is the same or improved, even with the extra performance
the can order a bluefin (Superchips remap in a handset) yourself and install it in 15 mins, you dont even have to open the bonnet
the remapped TDCI (assuming it is a 1.8L, as you dont say (what a surprize)) should outperform a 1.8 petrol in the midrange, in the higher gears, out of corners etc top gear roll ons, overtaking etc
the Bluefin claims to increase the power from 100 to 131Hp, and the torque from 240 to 306Nm (the 1.8 petrol only has 115PS, and probably a lot less torque)
Superchips (the company, Bluefin is the product) works with insurance companies and is recognized as a legit mod, the insurance may not be much more -
if you cant afford to legitimately insure a blufin/remap, an engine swop would be even more out of reach to insure or you could have to run illegally/ effectively uninsured, an ST would be expensive to run/ insure too
Ive got a 2.0 duratorq focus and fitted my solid egr blanking plate 2 weeks ago the transformation is amazing with better mpg smoother running and loads more responsive but it put the eml on saying something along the lines of egr high pressure ?. Someone says the euro 4 engine needs a hole in the plate so I started with a 4mm hole which still put the light back on ive went up 2mm at a time and tonight drilled it to 10mm which ive seen for sale on ebay, Ive knocked the light out but wont find out till tomorrow if its going to stay out as soon as u put a hole in the plate its nowhere near as good as a solid blank but the holes still smaller so there must be a little benefit lol.
It is reconed that a holed plate is a waste of time, and defeats the point of the blanking plate
with the holed plate you will still get hesitation, lag and an increase of smoke (potentially contaminating the turbo VNT mech, causing earliy(er) turbo failure, more smoke out of the exhaust or contamination of the DMF (if fitted)) and the inlet (manifold etc) will still get contaminated with carbon from the EGR
My best advice is to fit a solid blate that works properly to block the exhaust gases, and ignore the engine light or reset it with a code reader now and again (some people do this once a week)
or 2nd best, forget about fitting a plate,
Which is more important - a little light on on your dash or all the above advantages of the solid EGR blanking plate?
Another advantage of a solid plate is if the EGR valve fails / leaks the engine will still run ok (because it disables the EGR)- with a holed plate/ no plate it wont
it would be good to see back-to-back objective tests between no plate/ holed plate/ solid plate (eg on a dyno)
a non - blanked EGR causes long-term problems for the engine, not a solid plate - it saves the engine
I agree with James about the viability/ cost-effectiveness of the car, and whether it is worth spending any more money on, or whether its best to cut your losses, let it go and get a newer car with a lower milage, as the car cannot be worth the money spent and you may be "throwing good money after bad" - as they say
£1700 (what you considered spending) will buy you a newer car with half (or less) of the mileage - and that car would be worth more so if money had to be spent on it its not "throwing it away" + there would be more life left in it (not coming to the end of its useful life)
It can be a tough decision to make but you must be realistic
Im not an expert at all but I've been reading all sorts and the general consensus has been, if you have a new car or its had plenty and regular oil changes then its fine, but if its a bit long in the tooth with unknown oil changes then doing it may give you more hassle as it breaks up all the old crap, which may either lead to leaks or more likely block things up as it comes off and floats about. I read somewhere that if your going to do it on poorly looked after engines or long oil change intervals, then the first time you'll need to clean it change it, run it and repeat it 2 or 3 times to help reduce the chance of crap getting in to places you don't want it, suggestion was to use cheap oil first for a couple of hundred miles then on the final go put in the good stuff. Using it after should be fine so they say...
We have to be clear that we are talking about fuel or oil additives, you sound like you are talking about oil additives Lenny is talking about fuel additives (obviously 2 different things)
Fuel additives such as Winnes cannot clean the EGR valve, or inlet manifold, they can only clean the fuel lines and injectors, combustion chamber etc, the fuel goes nowhere near the EGR valve or inlet manifold on a direct-injection diesel, to clean the inlet manifold (or EGR valve) you need to take it off and clean it properly
As for the Class AB vs Class D, at home in a very good listening environment - maybe you are right. Class A - for sure. Still - I own a Pioneer home cinema receiver, with class D - and I beleive it collected top results in every review I have read. And I like it too
In a car - with lot of roadnoise etc - and perhaps playing mp3's - spotify - I do not believe it would be an hearable improvement using class AB over class D.
Ok - i agree with most of that - for most people class D fine and has efficiency advantages when running in a car enviroment, but look at the spec/ quality of the focals - i think that car owners wantling to turn their cars into a high fidelity/ quality enviroment would benifit from the (even slight) quality edge that a class AB amp has over a classD - in my experience a classD amp can get a bit harsh/ gritty at the top end when driven hard at high volume levels, and many musicians, sound engineers, hi-fi enthusiasts etc would hear the difference, i realize manufacturers' are continuing to develop classD designs to bridge the gap to class AB - but for me, class AB has the edge in quality
The difference may be small, and the difference between different speakers (sound quality wise) is probably bigger but with class AB amps available for less than a classD, its a no-brainer (for front speakers at these power levels) for subs or very high power (eg competition) systems,(power/ efficiency over quality) classD may be the way to go
Thanks a million for the kind words. It took a while but I am glad I did most of it myself.
So, thinking that when funds allow, which might be a while, I will get the Infinity amp to replace the Blaupunkt one. Unsure whether I will then keep the Blaupunkt and go passive with the Focal speakers or use the Infinity Amp to go active with the Focal and power the rear speakers with the Blaupunkt amp. Guess I will cross that bridge when I get there.
Massive thanks for all the info given as I have learnt a lot and know that there is still more reading and learning to do. Love how this sound upgrade project started with me knowing very little with the basic stock components in the car and now I have something that I am quite proud out. It still surprises people when they hear it for the first time and that makes me smile
The infinity amp is overpriced at £350, and the total harmonic distortion at the rated output is 1% thats (bad) brobably due to the cass D output stage - translation = its crap
The much cheaper BOSS amps are 0.01% total harmonic distortion at the rated output (exellent quality) - i looked at scores of amps to find an affordable one (or range of amps) with i very high spec (including superior class AB output stages ) at an affordable pric- this amp/ range of amps blows many much more expensive amps away (in terms of quality)
Im not looking at brand names but at technical specs
You could get 2 boss amps, and this active boss x-over -
for less than 1 overpriced (and inferior) amp - and that would mean you have more left over for another set of focals -
so you could have the seperate active x-over (with fine control of the system) + 2 four chanel amps so the front and rears would be active, 8x (an amp for each woofer + tweeter!) 150w = 1200w so awesome power, headroom and clarity - and a fraction of the price of an equivelant system
PS - yes your sub x-over frequency is low, try 100 to 200hz, see how it sounds, you may need to turn the bass down
Hi , Hassen, your setup looks great. Great Work I agree with FOCA's advices. But I think class D are totally ok in the listening envirement of a car. Think voltage drop are a bigger concern - class D delivers more power, using less current.
Choosing SQ - active crossovers with time-alignment sure will improve.
The prefab sub looks great. Love the pictures - fun to watch your progress.
I disagree, it may be ok for some that just want to make a noise - but when you want to achiveve hi-fi quality sound in your car - class A-B is better than class D for sound quality classD compromises sound quality for efficiency (better efficiency/ worse sound quality) - classD is OK for subs (because the distortion caused by classD is less noticable at sub frequencies)
They used to say you did not need CDs in a car and tapes (you know, the crappy, hissy compact cassette) were good enough due to the acoustics in a car!