Jump to content



Member Since 30 Oct 2012
Offline Last Active Sep 28 2014 02:05 PM

#396109 Mondeo Tdci 130. Focus St Intercooler Upgrade

Posted by FOCA on 10 August 2014 - 01:41 PM

Its the old 2.5 - but its not an upgrade, my information is it will restrict the Mondeo, as the stock mk3 (Mondeo diesel) intercooler has 2-14" inlet and outlet , all the MK3 diesels have the same intercooler, from the 90PS di to the ST-TDCI - the ST-TDCI has 155PS and can produce 180+Hp and 400+ Nm with the stock intercooler  


Best to discuss your present and future modifications, how much you wish to spend, etc etc, like changing the intercooler is a waste of time - a remap or tuning box will make the biggest difference, followed by a back-box delete, decat, EGR blanking, resonator blanking, in that order (biggest to smallest improvement) 


Once you have done all that, an intercooler upgrade may be worthwhile (but not a stock Focus ST one)


It gets a bit complicated/ technical when you statt talking about pressure drop, internal volume, thermal inertia etc


edit - here is another post with more details - http://www.fordowner...-advice-needed/

#396088 Mountune Booked :)

Posted by FOCA on 10 August 2014 - 12:31 PM

So just been out to Gatwick and back with the mountune hose and defiantly the stock hose sounds better , you can really here the induction noise and hiss clearer with stock hose. I'm undecided on pickup / throttle response between stock and mountune hose . Is it worth 100 quid, doubt it now I've tested it a bit maybe get the 50 quid one from js

If the stock hose is louder it can be deceptive and give the illusion of more power, if you are timing the 0-60etcyourself  its difficult to get consistant results, and the differences (of the 2 hoses) small   


To truly test the difference between the stock hose and Mountune hose you need back-to-back testing on a dyno, which of course is what Montune have done


The map usually gives a much bigger performance increase to the hose, which may be quite small


I know some owners like a loud car or one that pops, bangs growls or hisses, for me, noise is an unfortunate side-effect of free-flowing induction, exhausts etc, and i try my best to keep the noise down to acceptable levels without compromising performance (the opposite of what some others seem to do on the forum)         

#395678 Advice?

Posted by FOCA on 08 August 2014 - 09:08 PM

Its not cheap but there is the pioneer "spare wheel" sub -




it fits inside the spare - you just relocate the jack/ bits (it has quite a beefy  sound (they say)


so you can keep your spoare wheel


you may be able to pick a decent one up at a good priice seconhand online 


or one of the slimline powered underseat subs ( you could put it in the boot) -



#395650 Help A Newbie With First Modifications ?

Posted by FOCA on 08 August 2014 - 08:12 PM

Hi guys

Would you be kind enough to give any help into what I should be upgrading on my car, I'm thinking about getting a remap done but not for a few months. I basically want the car to have better acceleration, I have a 63 plate Focus zetec sport 2.0 TDCI 160BHP powershift. Once it's out of first gear it really shifts it just seems a little sluggish off a standing spot.

I would have a guess and say a new exhaust and good air filter are a must but have no idea what make is best. (I would not be fitting these myself) Any good web sites ?

A remap or tuning box will make a big difference, exhaust will make a small difference, air filter will make little or no difference


simply sticking a tuning box on (without other mods) will increase the PS from 163 to 199, and the Nm from 340to 410 - DTUK -




its not cheap at about £300 but cannot be over-written like a map can and can be removed for services (dont know if its undetectable)  


Or you could go with a Superchips remap  


Its your choice whether you wish to void the warranty or not


Diesels can often be sluggish off the line, even powerful ones  (copmpared to petrol cars)- its a mixture of (realatively) narrow powerband, low rev-limit, low gearing, and the power may be restricted in the lower gears to protect the trans etc etc   

#395325 Blanking Off Egr Valve?

Posted by FOCA on 08 August 2014 - 03:47 AM

Hi Leonard,


I'm getting a new stainless steel pipe (from Turbo to EGR) fitted tomorrow and the EGR valve cleaned out. After that I will put a blanking plate in, the only way to go.

I have had the dreaded flashing glow plug and management light on (limp mode) recently (fault code P2263). I thought I would rather start with getting the pipe sorted first as it's broken, maybe a good starting point to my problems? I can even smell exhaust fumes in the car, which has been irritating me for a while now.

Cheers for your help.

No point in cleaning out the EGR valve or pipe, as nothing will flow in it anyway with the blanking plate fitted


Also, the pipe is not nessesary and does not do anything, once a solid plate is fitted, removing the pipe increases efficiency (you will need solid plates at each end, though).


The bit you need to clean out is the inlet manifold, the air the engine breathes with goes through this, the EGR valve often fills this with carbon, choking it


If you have a Euro3, you can fit a solid plate with no EML, with a Euro4 Mondeo, unfortunately the EML may come on, this can be reset with a code reader, -  you can have front EGR Euro3 and Euro4, there are several configurations

#394402 Egr Blanking Plate

Posted by FOCA on 05 August 2014 - 05:45 PM

after remap and dpf removal,
1st gear becomes a bit of a chore and not used for very much duration,
Almost but never would :lol: start off in 2nd gear all the time.
Overall though i dont floor it until 3rd gear and upwards because the increase in torque going flat out in 1st and 2nd could put strain on the cogs i reckon but no facts to back that up just my theory im putting out there y'all.

Agreed, the (Mondeo 2.2) ST-TDCI is restricted in 1st and 2nd to protect the trans/ DMF, the gearbox (on any car) acts as a "torque multiplier" so more torque is "seen" at the wheels in the lower gears than in the higher gears


Often modifications that increase power/ torque have to be coupled with more modifications that strengthen the car (like stronger clutches, transmission etc) like an SMF, heavy-duty clutch (carbon/ kevlar, etc) - ic can become expensive   

#394158 Lost Horses???

Posted by FOCA on 04 August 2014 - 10:11 PM

The warmer weather can reduce power by increasing the inlet temp + reducing the efficiency of the intercooler, but - 


Your EGR valve chucks muck into the engines inlet and the manifold, etc gets blocked/ choked  up, choking the engine/ reducing power/ torque -  the CAT can get coked/ blocked up too, as well as the VNT mech/ turbine housing/ wheel/ blades


You  never mentioned replacing the air filter - this is important (as well as the fuel filter)


As well as the EGR valve contaminating the inlet, with carbon/ gunge it also lets burnt gasses into the inlet (instead of clean, unburnt air, containing oxegen this is normally at part-throttle at lower revs, this is lible to be your flat spot  


Cleaning the inlet manifold out (by taking it off and cleaning it properly with petrol and/ or a high pressure jetwash) and fitting a solid EGR blanking plate will "fix" the EGR - it will no longer continue to be contaminated (will not need to be cleaned out again), and the flatspot should dissapear, throttle response should improve, lag from low revs reduced, performance and economy should improve (even a little)


As the engine gets older the crud builds up and more muck may be injected into the inlet - cleaning it out and fitting the solid plate will stop this


As well as the muck that comes out of the EGR valve, the crancase breather injects oily residue/ droplets/ burnt gases into the inlet, usually into the airbox or in front of the turbo compressor, all the boost hoses, right into the engine tend to get coated, it builds up over time and older, worn engines tend to inject more oily droplets (due to the bores/ valve guides/ seals wearing, or a build up of pressure, - the oily drops mix with the carbon from the EGR in the inlet manifold, forming an oily gunge, the intercooler also acts as a condenser, where the oil cools and builds up,


The answer is to clean the inside of the intercooler out, and fit a crancase breather catchtank - (one with the same diameter as the breather hoses - hard to find



So to repeat -


New air/ oil filters


Clean out inlet manifold and intercooler


Fit solid EGR blanking plate


Fit crankase breather catchtank


Keeping the weight down in the car, making sure there is plenty air in the tyres and checking the brakes are not dragging


A code reader is a worthwhile investment, and a Haynes manual


Finally, to get the power back (and more!) a remap (including bluefin) can make a big difference       

#393830 Tailgaters! What Can Be Legally Used To Dissuade The Morons ? Discuss

Posted by FOCA on 04 August 2014 - 11:38 AM

A lot of times you could make the situation worse by the things you do


Probably the best thing to do is if there is someone following close behind is to leave extra space in front of you (i think its in the highway code, its called "driving on the brakes of the car in front"- as far as i remember)


I have heard of some people "brake testing" the car driving too close behind (by braking hard then letting the brakes off at the last minite to stop the car behind hitting them, or pulling the handbrake on in a similar way,


The trouble is that these things could be considered dangerous and you could be considered the "baddie"


Welike to consider ourselves good drivers but we all have things we do that annoy other drivers, for example, there may be other drivers that drive slower than you, and others that drive faster, i drive slowly/ carefully in built up areas, through town etc, but quicker on the "open road" - if i come across someone driving slower than me i overtake them, it there is someone to close that is driving slower than me, i "take off" , if they are driving faster than me, i let them past


Often we do things that we dont like getting done to us - (sort of do what i say, not what i do sort of thing) - i was sitting at a roundabout (no traffic lights) just about to pull out, when a car i thought was getting off the roundabout went all the way around on the outside right in front of me - i thought "what an idiot" - but i do that, it could have been me coming the other way  


Same with tailgating - have you ever done it yourself - ever been a bit close to the car in front? - what? - never ever :lol:

#393291 Declaring Insurance Mods

Posted by FOCA on 03 August 2014 - 03:22 AM

Can someone tell me how scuff plates and painting brake calipers are classed as modifications.OK I understand adding performance parts etc affecting the insurance but not the above.Before long you will not be allowed to polish your car as a nice well kept car is more attractive for a thief.When i picked my new car up it wasnt as shiny as it is now,is this classed as a non factory mod. :lol:

Agreed - its all getting a bit silly


If you dont just consider your car as simply a  method of getting from a to b and you care enough  about your car to personalize it  you are more liable to take pride in your car/ look after if and take more of an interest in your driving skill - why be penalised?

#391179 Thinking Of Getting A Mondeo

Posted by FOCA on 28 July 2014 - 09:57 PM

If you get the 1.8 TDCi it doesnt have a DPF, for that matter I cant recall if both the 2.0 and 2.2 both have the DPF, but you will always get more grunt outa the diesel...


The 2.0 petrol is still a very good engine overall!


Later (Mondeo mk4) TDCI 1.8s have DPFs, (yours is a 2007, by 2010 they are probably all factory DPF equipped)


As far as im aware all Mk4 Mondeo 2.0 & 2.2s with the PSA engine have factory fitted DPFs


The OP is accustomed to having a quick car, and the bigger- engined/ more powerful Mondeos may be more suitable for him, often, if you are used to running/ owning a more powerful car, "downsizing" to a less powerful/ slower car can be a big dissapointment and can suck the joy out of motoring - An Astra VXR is quite a fast car, its about the equivelant to a Focus ST - even a stock one almost as quick cross country as my Mondeo (don't ask how i know this :) )  


There is always the 2.5T -  fast car, nice to drive, shame about the brakes and the MPG


Astra VXR (05-10) 236HP  6.2 SECS 0-62, 152MPH


Mondeo mk4 2.0L (duratec) 145hp  9.6SECS  130MPH


there are 3 different 2L petrol engines, in the mk4,  the "old nail" of the 145/150Hp NA duratec, and the 203 and 240Ps ecoboost turbocharged engines, far better/ more powerful, the car in the OPs ad, has the "old nail" (its the same engine that was in the mk3)   

#391082 Thinking Of Getting A Mondeo

Posted by FOCA on 28 July 2014 - 07:54 PM

If you are used to a quick car and want something fast(ish) go for the 2.2L diesel and get it remapped - some versions are good for 220HP and almost 500Nm, but still with decent MPG on a run, (probably faster and better MPG than a 2.0L petrol ) its a big car and there is plenty of space in a mk4 Mondeo, but it sits nicely on the road, does not feel like a "barge"  

#388977 Fiesta St500 Brake Disks

Posted by FOCA on 23 July 2014 - 02:12 AM

OK so completely and utterly confused.

The car is due new disks and pads, the rear have been done but the front well, this is where the confusion starts.

Standard fitment for the car is diameter wise 278mm but the ones I have are 333mm (theyre quite corroded so might be more or less).

The suspension is standard, so's the hubs and the pads but yet they dont fit!!!

Can anyone advise?

Thanks in advance

That could be the Mountune 4-pot big brake upgrade retails for £1300 -




if so, discs and pads will probably not be cheap, and if cost is a priority, you may be better putting it back to stock

#388146 Tdci Intercooler Question

Posted by FOCA on 21 July 2014 - 04:56 AM

I find that petrol is good for cleaning the oil out of the inside of the intercooler, seems to work and does not seem to corrode the inside of the intercooler - can be left to evaporate too  


Although petrol and diesel breather catchtanks work on the same principal, diesel engines have a lot of crankcase pressure compared to petrol engines, the diameter of the engine breather outlet/ hose is often quite large on a diesel  


if you fit a breather catchtank designed for a petrol engine that has a smaller diameter than the breather on your diesel, it can restrict the airflow, this can increase the pressure inside the crankcase


For example, the inlets/ outlets on the catchtank Lenny suggested are only 12mm (tiny) the the breather outlets on a typical diesel are 25mm (a lot bigger)


Many breather catchtanks have 15mm outlets/ inlets (still way too small for a diesel)


the intakes/ outlets on the catchtank  must be at least as big as the breather hoses - makes them difficult to obtain for a diesel  


The trouble in using a filter on the breather (or a vented catchtank) is the fumes can find their way into the cabin, they can contain carbon monoxide (thats why the breather is fed back into the engine air intake) -


for a road car i recommend fitting a (filterless/ no vent to the outside) catchtank  with the outlet fed back into the intake (following the same route as before/ as stock)         

#387674 Supercharger Or Turbo?

Posted by FOCA on 19 July 2014 - 06:03 PM

My brother took me through the pro's and con's of each when he was helping a mate decide what package they were going for on a Hayabusa drag bike being built.


Supercharger - Boosts even at idle speeds so lot less lag, on the other hand this can also make starts harder to control as you're getting a lot of boost at lower revs

Mechanically driven which can make it difficult to incorporate into an engine not originally designed for this. Plus of course this introduces power losses taken up driving the supercharger through belts etc. More difficult to vary boost characteristics, typically achieved by physically changing pulley ratios.


Turbocharger - pretty much the opposite to the pro's and cons of the s/c - more lag low down, can be addressed with smaller turbo but then this sacrifices top end performance. no mechanical drag like on a s/c but of course you often need a lot of plumbing both exhaust and inlet to get the system installed. Lot easier to vary boost performance with software through boost controller etc. Also a lot more choice of kits available, while that doesn't always mean they're better (i.e. VHS vs betamax) it saves the pain and expense of being a guinea pig for a less well developed package.


Course for oem applications there will be more advanced systems & controls which eliminate some of the drawbacks/compromises and I've probably not covered everything.


Turbo won in the case of the Busa if you hadn't already guessed  ;) 

Agreed - but you have missed some important points out - the power requirements of the supercharger are high, the parasitic losses are significant enough to reduce the power output of the engine -


Working on a project and considering supercharging/ turbocharging, two appkications that were studied were the A series Vizard -tuned turbo and supercharged versions, and the g40 and g60 engines, on the turbocharged A-series, it produced significantly more top-end power than the supercharged version, on the g-60 the power loss of the supercharger was a significant 18HP (so everything being equal, 18hp  less than a turbo could produce)


so the turbo has more  power potential than a supercharger


top - fueller dragster still use supercharges, though, the instant response and lack of lag is a big advantage in drag racing, the massive slicks can take care of the torque at low revs and the gearing is optomised (often, they only use 2 gears) to take advantage of the wide power/ torque band - i would say turbocharging is best fore most applications/ people, and supercharging is a bit specialized, for certain applications


high-octane fuel or reducing the compression ratio may be required to prevent detonation, utherwise the boost may need to be reduced (which may make the whole exersize  pointless - as you would have the cost/ hassle but not the full benifits/ potential)

#387655 Boost Gauge.

Posted by FOCA on 19 July 2014 - 05:28 PM

Thanks. Took the best part of 5 hours just to get the hose in through the firewall. What a pain.
Just one thing the needle fluctuates a bit, any ideas on how to stop this ?


If the needle fluctuates at a low froquency (slowly) it is probably the gauge showing you how much boost is getting to the (inlet) manifold


If it is fluctuating or "fluttering" at a high frequency (quickly) or the needle "jumping about" it cold be the pick - up point is too close to the turbine (so you are seeing the changes of the boost being controlled which does not represent the actual boost that arrives at the (inlet) manifold),  or too close to the inlet manifold (so you see individual cylinder pressures/ pressure "waves" - you could change the position of the pick-up-point to the outlet of the intercooler, or fit an in-line fuel filter (for a petrol car/ lawnmower/ with fittings that fit the gauge pipe ) in-line with your gauge, its the extra volume that will take the "flutter" out,(giving you more of an "avarage" reading) not the filter element 


fuel filter for boost gauge -