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FOCA

Member Since 30 Oct 2012
Offline Last Active Today, 03:08 PM
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#395325 Blanking Off Egr Valve?

Posted by FOCA on 08 August 2014 - 03:47 AM

Hi Leonard,

 

I'm getting a new stainless steel pipe (from Turbo to EGR) fitted tomorrow and the EGR valve cleaned out. After that I will put a blanking plate in, the only way to go.

I have had the dreaded flashing glow plug and management light on (limp mode) recently (fault code P2263). I thought I would rather start with getting the pipe sorted first as it's broken, maybe a good starting point to my problems? I can even smell exhaust fumes in the car, which has been irritating me for a while now.

Cheers for your help.

No point in cleaning out the EGR valve or pipe, as nothing will flow in it anyway with the blanking plate fitted

 

Also, the pipe is not nessesary and does not do anything, once a solid plate is fitted, removing the pipe increases efficiency (you will need solid plates at each end, though).

 

The bit you need to clean out is the inlet manifold, the air the engine breathes with goes through this, the EGR valve often fills this with carbon, choking it

 

If you have a Euro3, you can fit a solid plate with no EML, with a Euro4 Mondeo, unfortunately the EML may come on, this can be reset with a code reader, -  you can have front EGR Euro3 and Euro4, there are several configurations




#394402 Egr Blanking Plate

Posted by FOCA on 05 August 2014 - 05:45 PM

after remap and dpf removal,
1st gear becomes a bit of a chore and not used for very much duration,
Almost but never would :lol: start off in 2nd gear all the time.
Overall though i dont floor it until 3rd gear and upwards because the increase in torque going flat out in 1st and 2nd could put strain on the cogs i reckon but no facts to back that up just my theory im putting out there y'all.

Agreed, the (Mondeo 2.2) ST-TDCI is restricted in 1st and 2nd to protect the trans/ DMF, the gearbox (on any car) acts as a "torque multiplier" so more torque is "seen" at the wheels in the lower gears than in the higher gears

 

Often modifications that increase power/ torque have to be coupled with more modifications that strengthen the car (like stronger clutches, transmission etc) like an SMF, heavy-duty clutch (carbon/ kevlar, etc) - ic can become expensive   




#394158 Lost Horses???

Posted by FOCA on 04 August 2014 - 10:11 PM

The warmer weather can reduce power by increasing the inlet temp + reducing the efficiency of the intercooler, but - 

 

Your EGR valve chucks muck into the engines inlet and the manifold, etc gets blocked/ choked  up, choking the engine/ reducing power/ torque -  the CAT can get coked/ blocked up too, as well as the VNT mech/ turbine housing/ wheel/ blades

 

You  never mentioned replacing the air filter - this is important (as well as the fuel filter)

 

As well as the EGR valve contaminating the inlet, with carbon/ gunge it also lets burnt gasses into the inlet (instead of clean, unburnt air, containing oxegen this is normally at part-throttle at lower revs, this is lible to be your flat spot  

 

Cleaning the inlet manifold out (by taking it off and cleaning it properly with petrol and/ or a high pressure jetwash) and fitting a solid EGR blanking plate will "fix" the EGR - it will no longer continue to be contaminated (will not need to be cleaned out again), and the flatspot should dissapear, throttle response should improve, lag from low revs reduced, performance and economy should improve (even a little)

 

As the engine gets older the crud builds up and more muck may be injected into the inlet - cleaning it out and fitting the solid plate will stop this

 

As well as the muck that comes out of the EGR valve, the crancase breather injects oily residue/ droplets/ burnt gases into the inlet, usually into the airbox or in front of the turbo compressor, all the boost hoses, right into the engine tend to get coated, it builds up over time and older, worn engines tend to inject more oily droplets (due to the bores/ valve guides/ seals wearing, or a build up of pressure, - the oily drops mix with the carbon from the EGR in the inlet manifold, forming an oily gunge, the intercooler also acts as a condenser, where the oil cools and builds up,

 

The answer is to clean the inside of the intercooler out, and fit a crancase breather catchtank - (one with the same diameter as the breather hoses - hard to find

 

 

So to repeat -

 

New air/ oil filters

 

Clean out inlet manifold and intercooler

 

Fit solid EGR blanking plate

 

Fit crankase breather catchtank

 

Keeping the weight down in the car, making sure there is plenty air in the tyres and checking the brakes are not dragging

 

A code reader is a worthwhile investment, and a Haynes manual

 

Finally, to get the power back (and more!) a remap (including bluefin) can make a big difference       




#393830 Tailgaters! What Can Be Legally Used To Dissuade The Morons ? Discuss

Posted by FOCA on 04 August 2014 - 11:38 AM

A lot of times you could make the situation worse by the things you do

 

Probably the best thing to do is if there is someone following close behind is to leave extra space in front of you (i think its in the highway code, its called "driving on the brakes of the car in front"- as far as i remember)

 

I have heard of some people "brake testing" the car driving too close behind (by braking hard then letting the brakes off at the last minite to stop the car behind hitting them, or pulling the handbrake on in a similar way,

 

The trouble is that these things could be considered dangerous and you could be considered the "baddie"

 

Welike to consider ourselves good drivers but we all have things we do that annoy other drivers, for example, there may be other drivers that drive slower than you, and others that drive faster, i drive slowly/ carefully in built up areas, through town etc, but quicker on the "open road" - if i come across someone driving slower than me i overtake them, it there is someone to close that is driving slower than me, i "take off" , if they are driving faster than me, i let them past

 

Often we do things that we dont like getting done to us - (sort of do what i say, not what i do sort of thing) - i was sitting at a roundabout (no traffic lights) just about to pull out, when a car i thought was getting off the roundabout went all the way around on the outside right in front of me - i thought "what an idiot" - but i do that, it could have been me coming the other way  

 

Same with tailgating - have you ever done it yourself - ever been a bit close to the car in front? - what? - never ever :lol:




#393291 Declaring Insurance Mods

Posted by FOCA on 03 August 2014 - 03:22 AM

Can someone tell me how scuff plates and painting brake calipers are classed as modifications.OK I understand adding performance parts etc affecting the insurance but not the above.Before long you will not be allowed to polish your car as a nice well kept car is more attractive for a thief.When i picked my new car up it wasnt as shiny as it is now,is this classed as a non factory mod. :lol:

Agreed - its all getting a bit silly

 

If you dont just consider your car as simply a  method of getting from a to b and you care enough  about your car to personalize it  you are more liable to take pride in your car/ look after if and take more of an interest in your driving skill - why be penalised?




#391179 Thinking Of Getting A Mondeo

Posted by FOCA on 28 July 2014 - 09:57 PM

If you get the 1.8 TDCi it doesnt have a DPF, for that matter I cant recall if both the 2.0 and 2.2 both have the DPF, but you will always get more grunt outa the diesel...

 

The 2.0 petrol is still a very good engine overall!

 

Later (Mondeo mk4) TDCI 1.8s have DPFs, (yours is a 2007, by 2010 they are probably all factory DPF equipped)

 

As far as im aware all Mk4 Mondeo 2.0 & 2.2s with the PSA engine have factory fitted DPFs

 

The OP is accustomed to having a quick car, and the bigger- engined/ more powerful Mondeos may be more suitable for him, often, if you are used to running/ owning a more powerful car, "downsizing" to a less powerful/ slower car can be a big dissapointment and can suck the joy out of motoring - An Astra VXR is quite a fast car, its about the equivelant to a Focus ST - even a stock one almost as quick cross country as my Mondeo (don't ask how i know this :) )  

 

There is always the 2.5T -  fast car, nice to drive, shame about the brakes and the MPG

 

Astra VXR (05-10) 236HP  6.2 SECS 0-62, 152MPH

 

Mondeo mk4 2.0L (duratec) 145hp  9.6SECS  130MPH

 

there are 3 different 2L petrol engines, in the mk4,  the "old nail" of the 145/150Hp NA duratec, and the 203 and 240Ps ecoboost turbocharged engines, far better/ more powerful, the car in the OPs ad, has the "old nail" (its the same engine that was in the mk3)   




#391082 Thinking Of Getting A Mondeo

Posted by FOCA on 28 July 2014 - 07:54 PM

If you are used to a quick car and want something fast(ish) go for the 2.2L diesel and get it remapped - some versions are good for 220HP and almost 500Nm, but still with decent MPG on a run, (probably faster and better MPG than a 2.0L petrol ) its a big car and there is plenty of space in a mk4 Mondeo, but it sits nicely on the road, does not feel like a "barge"  




#388977 Fiesta St500 Brake Disks

Posted by FOCA on 23 July 2014 - 02:12 AM

OK so completely and utterly confused.

The car is due new disks and pads, the rear have been done but the front well, this is where the confusion starts.

Standard fitment for the car is diameter wise 278mm but the ones I have are 333mm (theyre quite corroded so might be more or less).

The suspension is standard, so's the hubs and the pads but yet they dont fit!!!

Can anyone advise?

Thanks in advance

That could be the Mountune 4-pot big brake upgrade retails for £1300 -

 

http://www.mountunes...g-Brake-Upgrade

 

if so, discs and pads will probably not be cheap, and if cost is a priority, you may be better putting it back to stock




#388146 Tdci Intercooler Question

Posted by FOCA on 21 July 2014 - 04:56 AM

I find that petrol is good for cleaning the oil out of the inside of the intercooler, seems to work and does not seem to corrode the inside of the intercooler - can be left to evaporate too  

 

Although petrol and diesel breather catchtanks work on the same principal, diesel engines have a lot of crankcase pressure compared to petrol engines, the diameter of the engine breather outlet/ hose is often quite large on a diesel  

 

if you fit a breather catchtank designed for a petrol engine that has a smaller diameter than the breather on your diesel, it can restrict the airflow, this can increase the pressure inside the crankcase

 

For example, the inlets/ outlets on the catchtank Lenny suggested are only 12mm (tiny) the the breather outlets on a typical diesel are 25mm (a lot bigger)

 

Many breather catchtanks have 15mm outlets/ inlets (still way too small for a diesel)

 

the intakes/ outlets on the catchtank  must be at least as big as the breather hoses - makes them difficult to obtain for a diesel  

 

The trouble in using a filter on the breather (or a vented catchtank) is the fumes can find their way into the cabin, they can contain carbon monoxide (thats why the breather is fed back into the engine air intake) -

 

for a road car i recommend fitting a (filterless/ no vent to the outside) catchtank  with the outlet fed back into the intake (following the same route as before/ as stock)         




#387674 Supercharger Or Turbo?

Posted by FOCA on 19 July 2014 - 06:03 PM

My brother took me through the pro's and con's of each when he was helping a mate decide what package they were going for on a Hayabusa drag bike being built.

 

Supercharger - Boosts even at idle speeds so lot less lag, on the other hand this can also make starts harder to control as you're getting a lot of boost at lower revs

Mechanically driven which can make it difficult to incorporate into an engine not originally designed for this. Plus of course this introduces power losses taken up driving the supercharger through belts etc. More difficult to vary boost characteristics, typically achieved by physically changing pulley ratios.

 

Turbocharger - pretty much the opposite to the pro's and cons of the s/c - more lag low down, can be addressed with smaller turbo but then this sacrifices top end performance. no mechanical drag like on a s/c but of course you often need a lot of plumbing both exhaust and inlet to get the system installed. Lot easier to vary boost performance with software through boost controller etc. Also a lot more choice of kits available, while that doesn't always mean they're better (i.e. VHS vs betamax) it saves the pain and expense of being a guinea pig for a less well developed package.

 

Course for oem applications there will be more advanced systems & controls which eliminate some of the drawbacks/compromises and I've probably not covered everything.

 

Turbo won in the case of the Busa if you hadn't already guessed  ;) 

Agreed - but you have missed some important points out - the power requirements of the supercharger are high, the parasitic losses are significant enough to reduce the power output of the engine -

 

Working on a project and considering supercharging/ turbocharging, two appkications that were studied were the A series Vizard -tuned turbo and supercharged versions, and the g40 and g60 engines, on the turbocharged A-series, it produced significantly more top-end power than the supercharged version, on the g-60 the power loss of the supercharger was a significant 18HP (so everything being equal, 18hp  less than a turbo could produce)

 

so the turbo has more  power potential than a supercharger

 

top - fueller dragster still use supercharges, though, the instant response and lack of lag is a big advantage in drag racing, the massive slicks can take care of the torque at low revs and the gearing is optomised (often, they only use 2 gears) to take advantage of the wide power/ torque band - i would say turbocharging is best fore most applications/ people, and supercharging is a bit specialized, for certain applications

 

high-octane fuel or reducing the compression ratio may be required to prevent detonation, utherwise the boost may need to be reduced (which may make the whole exersize  pointless - as you would have the cost/ hassle but not the full benifits/ potential)




#387655 Boost Gauge.

Posted by FOCA on 19 July 2014 - 05:28 PM

Thanks. Took the best part of 5 hours just to get the hose in through the firewall. What a pain.
Just one thing the needle fluctuates a bit, any ideas on how to stop this ?

Thanks.

If the needle fluctuates at a low froquency (slowly) it is probably the gauge showing you how much boost is getting to the (inlet) manifold

 

If it is fluctuating or "fluttering" at a high frequency (quickly) or the needle "jumping about" it cold be the pick - up point is too close to the turbine (so you are seeing the changes of the boost being controlled which does not represent the actual boost that arrives at the (inlet) manifold),  or too close to the inlet manifold (so you see individual cylinder pressures/ pressure "waves" - you could change the position of the pick-up-point to the outlet of the intercooler, or fit an in-line fuel filter (for a petrol car/ lawnmower/ with fittings that fit the gauge pipe ) in-line with your gauge, its the extra volume that will take the "flutter" out,(giving you more of an "avarage" reading) not the filter element 

 

fuel filter for boost gauge -

 

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item4ab6a6d45d  




#387650 Tdci Intercooler Question

Posted by FOCA on 19 July 2014 - 05:03 PM

Yeah that's right. I've been reading about flow. Happens to be in this months FAST FORD. I thought if I was to go bigger I would produce more lag and raise temperatures which I don't want. That's why I opted for a smaller one than other types. One because of funds would get me a higher branded one. Two i didn't fancy relocating the horn or disturb anything and cause more trouble. I know direnza isn't great but it does seem to be a good quality product. Even on other forums ie the mini forum some people have used them and think they are good. I know it may give me a slight increase but I'm not after huge amount. It's only a 1.6tdci so I can't go to far as injectors will max out at about 150ish is imagine. It's a 110. The Egr is blanked. I have a K&N 57s enclosed intake. So I thought the next thing in that line of fire is intercooler then remap with Dpf removal and exhaust. So I maybe pushing 140-150. Im doing this as I'm trying to make the car more reliable in the long run ie no Dpf changes and no egr so cleaner engine. And to get the best economy as I can. I do a lot of motoway. So more over taking power and the car will use less fuel cruising.

What do you think I can't think of much more you can do with it without getting the credit card out.

Ooo a question on the side of this. Oil in the intercooler. Now when I replaced my intake I thought is have a look in the intake and noticed a film of oil? Is this normal. It's not huge amounts and car doesn't smoke at all. I thought is ask that's all. When the cooler arrives it will get cleaned inside and out before install and I make take the intercooler pipes off to also clean them.

Nice one, with all the things you have already done, and your planned mods i think they are the best mods for getting the most out of the car without spending £££££££££££s (i think you have it spot -on, in my opinion)

 

if you plan to keep the car a while, and the Dual Mass Flywheel or clutch was to start "playing up" it may be worth changing it to a solid flywheel/SMF - you could upgrade your clutch to a heavier duty one (stronger, and with a higher clamping force, and with advanced/ upgraded materials like carbon fiber/ kevlar (this is what i have done on my Mondeo) or "fast road"/ "organic"- the upgraded SMF/ clutch may be no more expensive than an ordinary bog standard Ford one  

 

the film of oil is from the crankcase breather, it goes in in front of the turbo compressor (in between the airbox and turbo ) and

coats all the boost pipes all the way to the inlet manifold/ engine, it tends to condense/ build up in the intercooler, and the oily residue mixes with the carbon from the EGR valve in the inlet manifold, forming an oily sludge

 

a crankcase breather catchtank coul be fitted to stop/ reduce the oil from the breather, you will need to get a special diesel one as petrol ones might have too small a diameter fittings, which can restrict the breather airflow - im getting one specially made

 

Another thing worth considering is getting a watrrspray for your intercooler, recent tests have shown painting the lntercooler black cam help the performance, i have a theory that painting the front black, and leaving the back of the intercooler shiny/ silver will give the best results

 

edit - add link (black intercooler)

 

http://www.fordowner...ck-intercooler/      




#386704 The St Top Speed

Posted by FOCA on 16 July 2014 - 07:47 PM

Some interesting observations/ facts about top speed and the Fiesta ST top speed -

 

"Car and driver" claims the top speed of the Fiesta ST is 137mph - it does not say if this is the manufacturers claIm or an actual measured top speed

 

Record breaking attempts/ speed runs are done one way, then the opposite way within a certain time to be valid, this is because even a small tailwind or slight incline can make a big difference to results, ideally, the car needs to be tested on the flat, with no wind

 

If the test is done on a dyno, there is no wind resistsnce, so on more sophisticated (chassis) dynos, this aerodynamic drag is taken into account, this is estimated (read guessed) so it is not accurate / can only be an estimate

 

At higher speeds the aerodynamic drag is significant/ very large, doubling the speed means quadrupling the drag, so to increase the speed from 70 to 140, requires 4 times the power, (not 2 times) - so a more powerful car/ tuning mapping a car does not often increase the top speed as much as you might think - the 1000hp veyron had to be increased to 1200hp just to increase the top speed by a surprisingly small amount.

 

The aerodynamic effeciency can be more important than power at very high speed - a very "slippery" 140mph bike can be faster than a 600hp "production" car

 

Gearing is important - if you are already hitting the rev limiter/ redlining flat out in top - any amount of extra power will not increase the speed (you could double the power, it won't make any difference to top speed if that is the case) it might reach that top speed quicker/ in a shorter distance - to increase the top speed the gearing would have to be raised -

 

Some 6-speed cars are faster in 5th than 6th, if they have an "overdrive" 6th gear

 

If you take the 10% over-reading (already mentioned), coupled with (even a small) dowhill incline, and a little bit of a tail wind, higher speeds than the car can actually do on the flat with no wind can be shown on the speedo

 

Wide tires and spoilers can slow the car down - taking the rear spoiler off increased the speed of the "fastest production saloon" an MG hatch (similar to the Fiesta) originally with a roof spoiler - wider tyres increase aerodynamic and mechanical drag, heavier wheels increase rotating mass - (tyre width/ size should match power output, a wider wheel/tyre can help grip off the line but slow the car down at higher speed - they must be chosen carefully) a ligher overall weight can increase acceleration and the top speed attained

 

So fitting wider tyres, bigger (heavier) brakes can slow the car down in higher gear acceleration and top speed

 

9 times out of 10, on the road and even on the track, the top speed of a car/ bike does not matter, acceleration/ (like 0-60mph or 30 to 70) lap times or 1/4 mile times or how quickly the car gets up to high speed is a lot more important in the real world

 

All references to high speed obviosly mean safely off road - i am not encouraging speeding

 




#386316 Need Some Professional Advice!

Posted by FOCA on 15 July 2014 - 11:43 PM

In my opinion, i would not bother with a hybrid turbo, and stick with the stock one, on your car

 

you could upgrade the exhaust with a cat/ DPF delete, and a 2-1/2" system - it would be simpler easier  to do and is more likely to get improved results (almost definately better results)

 

the turbine housing is part of the exhaust maniflold, so there is no easy way of changing the turbine,(unless you have a custom manifold fabricated- ££££s/ serious modding) this leaves the compessor -

 

if the compressor is upgraded without the turbine, it can produce a mismatch, often, a massive compressor wheel and housing is added, this has to be driven by the small turbine, the extra mass of the wheel means it takes longer to spin up, if you are lucky the extra gas flow compensates for this, and it produces similar results as the stock compressor, if yiu are unlocky the additional lag (or raised boost threshold) puts a big "hole" in the power/ toruue curve 

 

That might be ok if it raises the top-end power, but a regular diesel revs so low that you are liable to just cut some of the bottom-end - so hybrid turbos are often best left to high-revving petrol engined cars and very heavily modified , high revving diesels

 

the turbine really has to be matched to the car, with careful selction one could be chosen for just a little bit more gas-flow at the top-end (without adding too much lag at the bottom) - but then you are talking a realatively small improvement for a considerable cost - as progressively bigger compressors are chosen the lag increases

 

so it can end up being a lot of hassle/ money spent with little improvement, or a lot of lag/ loss of bottom end power

 

Im not saying, with the correctly selected turbine, and fitted/ set up by experts it could not be really exellent, but for most people sticking with the stock turbo is the best way to go - especially as you may find to get the best out of it yiou start needing injector, clutch/ trans (the DMF would probably have to go too) - i had to get a carbon-fiber/ kevlar heavy-duty  clutch SMF to handle the extra torque - you might find you get "carried away" with the project - check out my build thread in my profile

 

After having advised you not to go for the hybrid- i would love to see a balls-out (proper fast) mk2 Focus 2.0TDCI ST replica , or a sleeper     




#385681 Strange Whistle Sound??

Posted by FOCA on 14 July 2014 - 02:41 AM

Reminds me of a Lotus that had really bad buffeting wind noise untill you put the headlights on (it had pop-up headlights)