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FOCA

Member Since 30 Oct 2012
Offline Last Active Today, 04:36 AM
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#362760 Members Mug Shots....

Posted by FOCA on 10 May 2014 - 07:28 PM

I tried to upload a picture but it would not work - im just the same as my avatar, though! :lol:




#360771 Egr Blanking Plate?

Posted by FOCA on 05 May 2014 - 10:31 PM

 

 

Hi guys,

 

I think i'm going to get a blanking plate for my EGR but i'm not sure where to get one from??

 

I've had a quick look on Ebay but there all different sizes and are quite vague with what model its for.

 

If anyone could drop me a link it would be much appreciated!

 

Thanks in advance! :D

 

You need to post up stuff like fuel type (petrol or diesel) engine size etc etc

 

In general you need a solid plate (ones with holes to let gasses through are a waste of time) the best plates are stainless steel, as mild steel can rust and aluminium has a lower melting point, and can melt on some engines, Diesels need EGR blanking plates more than petrol-engined cars (due to the carbon contamination from the EGR valve)




#360204 Will Ford Focus Cc Become Future Classic Car Or Not?

Posted by FOCA on 04 May 2014 - 08:01 PM

Went today to Classic Car Show in Spalding (Sprigfield grounds) and saw there a couple of XR3i convertibles. These looked quite cool and I really liked it.

I am wondering if Focus CC will become a future classic just like XR3i cabrios?

 

There aren't many of these on roads and production has stopped after only 4 years. Some will probably say Ford done a right thing of killing it but I really love the car. :)

 

What do you think?

I think that in 25 - 30 years time Focus CC owners will believe their CC is a classic :lol:




#360173 Burning Smell After High Speed?

Posted by FOCA on 04 May 2014 - 07:38 PM

Every time I drive to my aunties house after I stop the car there's seems to be a strong burning smell. It's a very good road and always get up to a fair speed. Is this anything to be worried about or just normal after high revs

See if you can pinpoint it - is it the brakes, the clutch, the exhaust, etc or even the tyres?   

 

Personally, if i can't smell burning after a hard run, i feel i was not trying hard enough!   :lol:




#360135 Ps Rating?

Posted by FOCA on 04 May 2014 - 06:44 PM

 

Would you recommend the superchips over a local mobile tuner/remapper.  I like the fact the bluefin is DIY.

 

Do you know if it needs to remain plugged in 24/7?

Yes, i would recommend them,-  there are a lot of remappers around, including cowboys  - Superchips has been around for many years, (since 1977, i believe) and has good after-sales service, Stoney has answered the other part of your question    




#360043 Hesitation Issues

Posted by FOCA on 04 May 2014 - 01:40 PM

Have finally had the problem solved after taking the car back to the dealer again and insisting a mechanic came out with me to whiteness the problem, car was in for a couple of days and turns out it was a faulty egr (exhaust gas recirculation) valve. The car is now running sweet as a nut again, though glad I have an extended warranty as the part alone is getting on for £500.

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I thought it sounded like the EGR valve at fault 

 

An EGR blanking plate costs £5 or less...+  no more EGR issues / a solid plate "fixes" a faulty EGR valve by disabling it -  spend £500 and fix it temporarily, (untill the next time it fails) or £5 and fix it forever.... thats a hard one.... let me think about that........ :lol:   




#358858 Please Say Not The Turbo....

Posted by FOCA on 01 May 2014 - 10:36 AM

Thanks for getting back to me,was serviced very recently.reason i bought it was because it was an ex company car. Not sure if fuel fillet specifically was changed but stamped as full service if that means anything

Does it mean anything - not a lot because of the ridiculusly long service intervals - ive heard of cars going through 2 services and thousands of miles without  things like the air filter being changed - assume nothing - some people even mark the filters/ check the oil color to make sure they have been done -

 

on top of that there is "money saving" scams -

 

typical scams are changing the oil but leaving the oild oil filter in,(a favorite of the "fairly-speedy"-fit type places) cleaning an external filter instead of replacing it - the "one point" service-  filling the radiator up with tap water and stamping the book-  of course, your garage or a  main dealer would not do anything like that, would it :)    




#357389 Turbo Charger Loss Of Boost

Posted by FOCA on 27 April 2014 - 06:47 AM

Care needs to be taken with EGR blanking plates. Some engine ECU's will detect the lack of flow.

I believe some fords have a temperature sensor in the exhaust. If it doesn't detect a drop in exhaust temperature from the EGR working then you will get a fault. The EGR valve lets exhaust gasses back into the inlet manifold which cause a cooler burn and reduce the NOx emissions.

You can check a sticking VNT quite easily with a vacuum pump and a rule.

If you apply 0.350Bar vacuum to the actuator the actuator rod should move 9-11mm. On the Galaxy you can do it from under the car with it jacked up or on ramps.

Best thing for modern diesels is to have a small engine and thrash it. With EGR, VNT, and DPF its the only way to keep them clean.

Kind of defeats the idea of getting as much MPG as possible by careful driving.

The temprature drop is insignificant, only happens when the EGR is open (a very small percentage of the time) the temprature sensor in the exhaust (if fitted) is not for that reason and cannot detect small changes in the exhaust quickly enough  its only there to detect exessive EGTs (not to detect slight drops in the exhauet temp) - + the only reason temps drop when the EGR valve opens is because the oxegen going into the combustion chamber is reduced - less oxegen = less heat = less nox = less power

 

Effectively when the EGR valve is open it is cutting power and thats the only reason it reduces temps/ nox, you could say turning off the ignition does the same thing   

 

Overall the EGR often has a detrimental long term effect on the car/ enviroment/ MPG

 

I have 8+ years of research, development, and 1st hand/ hands on practical experience of EGR deletes/ plates etc - and there is a lot of BS floating about on the net about the subject - often spread by people that have never fitted an EGR plate




#356780 1999 Escort Van Project

Posted by FOCA on 25 April 2014 - 03:11 AM

Nice one! - exellent 1st car - i specially like the hole in the dash where the radio was - is that to save weight or an anti theft strategy? :lol:  




#356031 Lifetime Of A Turbo?

Posted by FOCA on 22 April 2014 - 10:04 PM

Will do, thanks Roger. All of us new focus/fiesta owners are like Guinea pigs with this new engine really

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Not really, before the engine design was released to the public it was run for 100,000s of miles in different conditions, real and simulated

 

As others have said, frequent oil/ filter changes (with the right/ quality oil/ filter) will help protect the engine/ turbo

 

sensibly running the engine in/ always warming the engine up before "booting" it helps lonngevity but, "pottering about" and labouring the engine is bad too, and a good "italion tune up" now and again is a good thing    

 

After a hard run, the oil is hot and it stays hot for a long time, letting the engine idle for a few minites (without revving the engine) is to allow the turbo to stop spinning, as well as to allow the oil to cool a little, it is when engine is switched off  if the turbo is still hot and spinning that problems can occur, as this turns off the oil feed to the turbo bearing as well - some cars were fitted with "turbo timers" that keep the engine running a few minites after the ignition key is removed (dont think they are road leagal, though) another solution is an electric oil pump (that continues to run after the engine is switched off)

 

Its not so much a problem with modern turbos as it was with older ones         




#355107 Streetka Brake Upgrades

Posted by FOCA on 19 April 2014 - 09:12 PM

The StreetKa has a relatively short wheelbase. Stronger brakes may cause the front wheels to lock up. Also there may be an issue with matching the larger brake disc diameter to the ABS. I would fit steel brake hoses for a firmer feel at the pedal.

The ABS will prevent the front brakes from locking up, as the ABS can cope with the brakes reducing their efficiency during their lifetime (as they wear out) it can also cope with stronger brakes (eg bigger discs/ better calipers)

 

Many people have fitted bigger discs/ better calipers with good results, - it can change the character / feel or the brakes, often for better/ sometimes for worse

 

For example some mk3 Mondeo owners have upgraded their stock 300mm front discs (and single-pot calipers) to Focus ST225 320mm discs/ twin opposed calipers and have reported that the initial "bite" is "softer" and their is a delay (or spungy-ness) when the brake pedal is pressed at 1st, compared to stock calipers - this may be due to the greater caliper / slave cylinder volume - but they have also reported better fade resistance/ stronger braking from high speed, and have got acustomed to the different feel of the upgraded brakes

 

Look at rally cars or eg- Ken Blocks' fiesta - that has serious/ massive brakes and is probably lighter than a Streetka -  (they were probably too small to begin with, anyway)  

 

 big brakes good - little ones bad  :lol:   




#353658 Ecoboost 1.0 Tuning Possibilities = More Powerrrr!!!!

Posted by FOCA on 14 April 2014 - 06:02 PM

Mine does something like that and I don't have bluefin installed, it's strange as you come off the throttle and the thing just accelerates again without any throttle Input!


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Boost pumping - a problem with early turbo cars -some early  Audi turbos used to do this - there was so much lag the throttle did not seem to be connected to the engine and the car might "take off" just as you are lifting off the throttle

 

when you "boot" it it energises the turbo, if you lift completely off the throttle the ECU cuts the fuel, but if you are on part-throttle the energy/ boost is still "in the system" - its all about the engineers balancing, performance/ economy/ drivability/ lag etc  

 

Other cars were "all or nothing" and the throttle was like a switch - full throttle or no throttle with no in-between - thats what turbo cars used to be like and we had to adapt our driving style to suit   




#353653 Ecoboost 1.0 Tuning Possibilities = More Powerrrr!!!!

Posted by FOCA on 14 April 2014 - 05:52 PM

That's the spirit, now get it up on 3 wheels, like a boss!

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Nicely put!

 

You might be able to break traffic laws but you cant break the laws of phisics  

 

With a conventional diff a FWD car does not grip well with one of the front wheels off the ground - need to invest in an ATB (automatic torque biasing) diff to get the power down, traction control, ESP etc just cuts the power to the front wheel with the least grip and a regular diff with no TC/ ESP just spins - try putting 370+nm down with FWD, no TC / or anything + remember the gearbox acts like a torque multiplier in the lower gears

 

Thats it - fit a Bluefin and whinge and moan that you are getting more wheelspin - more power/ torque = more wheelspin

 

 




#353296 Mondeo 2.2 Tdci & 2.0 Tddi

Posted by FOCA on 13 April 2014 - 04:14 PM

Thanks. I don't mind removing the inlet manifold. What seals it, gaskets or seals? I will order whatever is needed and get onto it next week. What shall I use to clean it? We have a hot wash at work that runs at about 60c so should be okay on a plastic manifold, or do I clean it manualy?
The intercooler, how do I clean it internally?
The EGR is at the rear and has no MAF. I understand I have a fixed vain on this car. There is an actuator with a rod above the turbo. What does this do? I had the missus rev it yesterday whilst I was looking at it and it done nothing.

Your advice is very much appreciated.

Cleaning the inlet manifold is a messy job, i spent hours on one with brushes, de-greaser, i even put small stones (like the ones in fish tanks) and squeezey etc, i only got it partly-clean

 

I handed it to a valeter that used an (large industrial) steam-jetwash on it, it came back immaculate, the type of plastic used does not melt under the bonnet, so is probably safe to 110+ degrees C (at least) and high pressures

 

There is a lot of posts where people have changed the inlet rubbers, (they are made of some sort of synthetic rubber and moulded into the manifold) i have used mine again and again with no problems, this is probably because i don't torque them down too much (they need surprisingly little torque, due to the design) and i run a total-loss breather (so the oil/ oily residue from the breather does not "break down/ melt" the rubber)  

 

As a precaution, you could obtain the inlet rubbers before you took the inlet manifold off (there are 8 of them, 2 per piston, as there is 2 inlet tracts per piston with the 16v head)  

 

The intercooler gets filled with oil from the breather (it condenses in the intercooler) but not the EGR  so it does not get as bad as the manifold , de-greaser should do it, it can be taken off from taking the grille off/ without removing front bumper/ bodywork (its tight, though)

 

the fixed vane (its vane not vain, that means something else - ) turbo has an actuator (pnumatic) a rod and an (internal) wastegate, the engine has to be under load to produce boost, once max boost is reached (its about 16psi on a stock TDDI) the wastegate should open as that is how boost is controlled  

 

You get a lot of lag on a fixed-vane from low revs (strictly-speaking, its not lag but the boost-threshhold, but lag for simplicity)  

but it is easy to increase boost (bleed valve/ boost bottle/extended pipe/ boost controller) + the fixed vane is simpler/ more reliable (no VNT mech to coke up/ sieze)

 

There are a few cheap/ easy things to do to get some poke out of the TDDI, like a resonator bypass, but utimately, a Bluefin/ remap or tuning box has the biggest improvement  




#351393 St Oil Colour And Level

Posted by FOCA on 06 April 2014 - 03:51 PM

In my experience the oil may start clear or a light golden colour when 1st put in the engine, and over time it gets darker, untill eventually its fairly black, i think this is a "natural" process, and nothing to worry about

 

An older or harder driven cars' oil will probably go dark quicker than a newer one

 

The oil level should be measured with the car on a flat level surface (a slight hill/ tilt can give a false reading) when the engine is cold (running the car can change the oil level on many cars, as the oil is pumped into the galleries and it can take time to drain back to the sump, or for other reasons)

 

Ideally the oil level should never be above the "high" level on the dipstick, or below the "low" level, if the oil level is too high, it can cause exessive pressure in the crankcase, that can blow seals, the extra oil can take longer to warm up, and the smaller volume in the crankase (more oil = less air/ room to "breathe") can affect performance/ economy on some cars (on ome engine it was found an extra 4% more power by running the oil level on the bottom of te dipstick

 

The extra oil can also cost more money, and the oil consumption can be higher, on a modern car there is probably a "margin of error" and it is probably ok to run the oil level a little high,though, given the choice, i would have the oil level (starting off at) half-way-up the dipstick, especially on cars like the 1.6L focus TDCI with the PSA engine/ DPF, as the oil level can "creep up" causing problems (i know this does not apply to Fiesta ST drivers) 

 

The coolant level should also be between the high and low (max and min) marks, it goes up and down depending on engine temp, weater temp etc, (this is also normal- thats why its called an "expansion tank") if it ever drops below the "min" level, (again on a flat level surface) it should be topped up with the correct stuff