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Member Since 02 Nov 2012
Offline Last Active Today, 06:19 PM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Mondeo Mk4 2005 2.0 Tdci Gear' S Problem

Today, 02:43 PM

Mondeo Mk4 2005 2.0 Tdci Gear' S Problem


That shouldn't be the case. The Mk IV started in 2007. Anyway, I assume that it is a normal, 'H-patter', gearbox with six forward gears?


Sometimes it takes two three tries to select but sometimes it works fine, other gears work fine as well?


What happens when it doesn't go in? The gear lever doesn't goes as far as normal, but is then blocked?


Is it the case that the clutch travel is normal, or does the clutch only work at the bottom of its travel. If the issue is that the clutch doesn't fully disengage when depressed (either it only works at the bottom of the range of travel, or the car tends to creep when the clutch is down, but the car is in first/reverse on level ground), then the problem is probably the clutch (or initial stages of a DMF problem) rather than the gearbox.


Assuming that the problem isn't the clutch, then the gearbox oil is the next thing to suspect; probably the car has done a few miles by now, so changing the gearbox oil isn't a bad idea, anyway.


<Edit: Usually, it is the case that 'bad gearbox oil' is worse at start up, in winter, so if it is worse then, you probably want to change the oil.>


Gear linkage is a possibility, but usually gears 'wander' around a bit, if a linkage has gone bad. It is always (imho) worth lubricating the gerabox mechanism with, eg, bicycle chain lubricant, as this sometimes helps the feel of the shift, but that isn't usually enough to make blocking gears work again.


Have you, or your brother, tried double de-clutched changes from second to first at low speed? Does that work?

In Topic: Alternator

Yesterday, 12:21 AM

Hi all. Bought a new battery and did NT need to and now got another alternator which may not need. Its a mk3 mondeo tdci.
Battery light hasn't t come on at all to warn me, so when it died and wouldn't jump got new battery and off we go. It lasted 4 days. Green flag came out and alternator only giving 11 volts. Fair enough. I ve already got the alternator and checked every fuse in case. What about any of the relays before we change it. Are there any other fuses or tests to try first


Well, 11 volts is too low. But, why? Is it the alternator that isn't giving out enough, or is the battery (or something else) putting on too much load? You can't tell from what you've said.


Anyway, if the problem is that the alternator is not putting out enough, it would probably work for a while if you put the battery on charge for, say, 24 hours. But, it wouldn't be all that useful for long, unless the alternator did put out enough to keep the battery topped up.


Oh, and anyway, I'm not sure i understood what was going on here; you seem to have randomly been buying parts when nothing had failed, but was about to, but was about to. This is odd.


I don t like being mugged off so my next question is give an honest answer pls people. How important is it to have a silver calcium battery.


Mugged off? Anyway, if you have the smart charge system and it is working, it will put out more voltage (temporarily) than the battery is happy with. how much this will shorten the life of the battery, I'm not sure, but it will shorten the battery life.


everyone says mondeos have smart charge, hence the calcium battery. I did NT know what I d bought and some knob at battery helpline said lead batteries have calcium in them. wtf. Took it to fords and he said a silver calcium battery wasn't t the be all. So whose right.



I suspect Mk I Mondeo's don't have smart charge, but recent ones certainly do. Probably once you are beyond something like 99 or 00.


You can disable smart charging by pulling the subsidiary plug out of the alternator, and that's probably what i'd do if i knew I had the wrong type of battery, as under those conditions the alternator ought to revert to the old 'dumb' behaviour, by default.


If you 'told' (or filled out the appropriate details on a form) the battery supplier the appropriate details for the application, ie, what car it is for, and they didn't supply the right battery, then it is their problem. If you didn't, then it is your problem.


t Did NT know about calcium batteries til a week ago. So just bought appropriate replacement. Took it to fords before taking it to where I bought battery. He said wasn't t critical. I wish he had said it was. Took it then to shop and they d never heard of calcium batteries! If ford techy said they be sold you wrong sort I d have demanded money back. Its been on the car mate so can t take it back were his words


Err, it seems as if your complaint is that you bought an inappropriate battery. if you bought an appropriate one, there wouldn't be cause for complaint, would there?


You have to understand that Silver Calcium (or even just Calcium) batteries are Lead Acid batteries. Lead is a pretty soft metal, and that, unless something changes it, makes the batteries not very rugged. Earlier Lead Acid had some alloying Antimony which helped, but this was replaced by Calcium, thus making the Calcium battery (which probably should have been called a Lead Calcium battery or something...but wasn't), which was a bit more rugged and can stand a bit more abuse.


 Further to that, adding Silver can help the recombination of Hydrogen and Oxygen into water, further increasing the amount of abuse that the battery can take. In fact, this is so effective that part of the charging strategy includes hitting the battery pretty hard with charge, so that the evolved gasses induce turbulence in the fluid. Now I'm not sure how important this is in a moving, vibrating object like a car, which must stir up the fluid to an extent, but you can see in a stationary application that this would be important.

In Topic: Noob Questions On Reliability

16 July 2014 - 05:58 PM

Diesel is definitely what I need. For economy and low end grunt for towing my caravan.
The car I'm seeing has 65k on it and a full service history(1 owner) and I'll be getting a 12 month warranty.
Sounds like every car. There's always someone who's had a bad experience.


Well, there is always someone who has a bad experience, but if you have a bad experience with a Diesel it will probably be a slightly worse experience than having a bad experience with a Petrol. Provided you are happy with that deal, and the chances are that it won't happen to you, you'll be ok.


You should also note that the 2.2 isn't quite as good on fuel economy around town than the 2 litre. On the motorways and dual carriageways there isn't much difference. That said, I think the 2.2 is what I'd go for, if I was doing a lot of towing.


...a 2006 model with 65k miles...


8 years and 65 k miles? If anything, you could be concerned with that for being on the low side, I'd rather see something like 12k per year. Make sure that it really does have the full service history, as some people only service them on mileage and not on time. (And I did see one car that only had been for its visit to see the Ford dealers for major and not minor services and that was described as having a full history, so you do have to check.)

In Topic: Noob Questions On Reliability

16 July 2014 - 10:06 AM

I think the situation - particularly with diesels - is that there are a few expensive things that can fail, but they aren't failing at any spectacular rate, and most people get away with it, fine. That said, on any modern car, whether petrol or diesel, some of the electronics can be spectacularly expensive, if you make the mistake of paying the main dealer prices...


Things that ought to concern you:

  • DMF - can fail (wear out) from about 80k onward (depending on how it has been driven, etc). This is expensive (labour). If you look at the service history, and it hasn't been done (and it probably won't have), you'll probably want to mutter 'dmf...(suck some air through your teeth, for effect)..I hear that's expensive...are you sure it hasn't been done?' a few times, and see if that softens the purchase price, any.
  • Cam belts - usually reckoned to last 125 k plus (people change them at 125 k to be safe, as the consequences of one actually failing are not good, but you'll probably find someone who says that they have done three times that without a problem...what they won't tell you is, if everyone went for 375k how many would damage their engine getting there) so shouldn't be an issue, but it is the other expensive (predictable) thing
  • Injectors do fail; it is a low rate of background noise, but it does happen more than Petrols, seemingly


I'd say that all modern Diesels have a higher rate of expensive parts that can fail than Petrols, and I don't think you'll get away from that by buying Mercedes, BMW or Audi. In practice, for most people, the rate at which these parts do fail is such that you'll still be below the expensive service costs on 'the Germans' but, if the surprise of having one of these failures is going to put doubt on your ability to keep the car on the road, you may want to reconsider whether buying a Diesel is right for you.

In Topic: Law On Driving With A Headlight Out?

13 July 2014 - 06:43 AM

1. What is the law on driving with it out? I've been pulled a few time in the past and just got told to get it fixed but if I get pulled again it could be a fine¿

Note that it is illegal to drive with a headlight out, even in daylight. You might ask 'how would they notice?', but it is still illegal.


2. It keeps happening!! The drivers side dipped is constantly blowing every 1-2 months what could be causing this?

I used to have this on a Cougar. The garage said 'nothing wrong...you are just being unlucky...bulbs do wear out after a time, and sometime you get several reaching their end of life together, etc, etc'.


This was, of course, nonsense as I was losing a bulb every six to eight weeks, always at the front of the car. That's not normal.


What you could also see was that the voltage was not very stable at idle - if it was dark, you could see that the dash illumination (eg, radio display, speedo, etc) and the lights would go up and down a little with the bass in the music. there was an alternator wiring problem with the cougar , generally, and Ford had an additional harness (probably a wire, but it sounds as if it costs more if you call it a harness) that could be retrofitted to cure the problem.


With that fitted, it went down to blowing a bulb every couple of years, rather than couple of months. Ford garage never admitted that there was a fault that they should have done something about.


Anyway, if there is any sign that the voltage is 'wobbling about', even at low engine rpm, then there probably is a problem with the wiring, and things like the alternator earth and battery earth are suspect. In that case, it is probably as easy as adding another, thicker gauge, piece of wire, but it might be a bit difficult working out where, exactly.


In the interim, you could get yourself a supply of cheap bulbs (not very nice, but...) and try to avoid switching on the lights before you have got the car started.


Also note that 'smart charge' does put the charging voltage up a bit, and you probably want to check that your battery can cope (a suitably specified silver calcium one, rather than an 'any old rubbish' battery) and that the terminals there are in good shape.