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BOF

Member Since 02 Nov 2012
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 09:12 PM
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Posts I've Made

In Topic: New Brakes

28 April 2015 - 08:56 AM

... is there any proof of the drilled and grooved discs being better i know the pagid discs are vented so assume bout the same thing

 

Vented and grooved/cross drilled are designed to do different things. 

 

Vented is designed to get more airflow through the disks and improve cooling. Often, fronts are vented and rears are plain, and you should not replace vented with plain, because you may not get enough cooling. With the lower amount of work that rears have to do, vented rears don't usually make a difference.

 

Grooved or cross drilled clean up the surface of the pads (and so avoid the problem that pads 'glaze', under some conditions, usually sustained light-ish braking - grooved probably fulfil this role better than cross drilled, depending on the groove design and the number of cross drillings) and they vent the pad surface (some pads can absorb a little water, and when this happens, under braking, the water can escape as steam, and, without some other way to escape, this stops the pads making full contact with the disks, and this 'I've just pressed the brakes and nothing has happened' effect can be quite disturbing, so it really is something that you don't want - on the other hand, if you have pads that don't absorb water, this isn't an issue).

 

On the other hand, either grooved or cross-drilled can create local weak spots in the disks, and they can crack under high thermal loading, so, if you go down either the grooved or cross-drilled routes, you want good quality disks.

 

... i seem to havto press the brake to slpw down but to stop havto floor the pedal and when braking on the motorway seem to get the steering wheel kicking... 

Having to floor the pedal is a bad thing, but is probably either air in the system (or absorbed water in the fluid, but you'd expect that to only show up late in a heavy braking phase) or rubbers in the master cylinder being shot. Neither helped by changing the pads or disks, so it is well to know what problem/problems you are trying to cure.

 

When was the fluid last changed, and what has happened since? How old is the car?

 

Steering wheels kicking(/vibration) can be caused by disk corrosion, particularly around the edges, but there are probably other causes, too. (Such as 'disk warping' which isn't usually warping that can be measured with a run-out gauge.)


In Topic: Will The Stock Head Unit Work Fine With After Market Speakers?

27 April 2015 - 05:28 PM

In general, you'll need to turn it up a bit more with aftermarket speakers. That's fine, unless you already have it turned up pretty high, and then it isn't.


In Topic: New Brakes

27 April 2015 - 01:56 PM

As far as the disks are concerned, I've got Pagids on the front of my Mondeo, and am happy; they rust less quickly than the Ford originals and generally seem like a good piece of work (although, I'll point out that the decision was influenced by the fact that they were on offer with someone like ECP at the time, and otherwise I might have gone with Mintex).

 

I can't tell you much about the pads, but be aware that both are in the same group, so they might (emphasis: might) even be the same pads. The TMD group includes Textar, Mintex, Don and Pagid (some bunch of investors has been hoovering up brake companies and putting them together, presumably for economies of scale). Mintex and Pagid, in particular, have a good rep for sporting brakes, but, to what extent that helps with their OEM-replacement pads, and to what extent any one of these companies sells different pads from the others would be speculation on my part.

 

There had been a problem with Mintex pads just after the takeover, but that's ten years ago now.


In Topic: Focus Audio Upgrade Help Needed

20 April 2015 - 08:40 PM

It isn't that it all the same so much as I've never really done back-to-back testing on wire. There are differences, in some cases it may be subtle, but there are real differences.

 

In general, though, for the high current leads (from the amps to the speaker drive units, the power to an amp or the sub), more copper is better. But, it is all a bit 'what works, works and what doesn't work, doesn't work'.


In Topic: Focus Audio Upgrade Help Needed

20 April 2015 - 05:12 PM

Was looking at getting this amp to power the speakers
http://www.pioneer.e...D8604/page.html

Does it matter if it is more powerful than my speakers as long as I don't blast the volume?
 

 

Well, usually, either the amp is more powerful than the speakers or the speakers are powerful than the amp (although the numbers tend to be quite unreliable, and subject to 'marketing', so you might not even know which is which).

 

If the speakers are more powerful and you drive the amplifier too hard (in to clipping), the speakers are still at risk. If the amplifier is more powerful, you can drive the speakers too hard, and the speakers are at risk.

 

So, really, to be safe, you've got to avoid turning the wick up too far, irrespective.

 

Does it matter what gauge wire I use?
 

From the amplifier to the drive units, yes, to the under-seat thingy, no (unless you wire to the drive units via the under seat).

 

Power to the under seat also matters. Obviously, all wires have a current rating, and the fuse should always go first, so the wire has to be higher-rated than the fuse But, broadly, bigger gauge wire is better there.