Jump to content


Member Since 02 Nov 2012
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 08:17 PM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: 2.2 Diesel

Yesterday, 08:20 PM

Really? I think a little fleshing out of the problem - assuming that there is a problem - might help you net a useful response.

In Topic: Tyre Recommendations

23 October 2014 - 07:33 PM

How much would a garage cost to fit.


About a tenner (probably as low as 7 or 8 and as high as 15). note that if you go with a 'partner program' supplier (eg, Tyre Shopper and probably Asda and Tesco are effectively partners of  Black Circles and someone or another), you pay one partner and just rock up at the specified fitter and they fit them. 


If you haven't got a cooperative garage near by, that might be a good option.


I seem to remember one of the on-line suppliers had a map of their nearby partners of whom there were hundreds, with indicative fitting prices, but I can't unfortunately remember which one. Another approach is just to phone a few local suppliers and when they ask you how much you've been quoted give them the online price and see if they'll match it or fit the tyres that you want.

In Topic: Rain-X Or Alternative

23 October 2014 - 05:48 PM

You don't say which product or for what application, but read this. This might also be interesting, if you know anywhere that sells their products (I don't).

In Topic: Tyre Recommendations

23 October 2014 - 12:41 PM

205/50/17s are more expensive than I expected them to be! Don't seem much cheaper than my 235/45/17s, which surprised me, a little. On the rear, most tyres should wear at least reasonably, but it is still the case that some will be better than others (the Goodyear EGPs should still be ok on the rear, but I'd expect the older EGs to be slightly better on wear and slightly worse on just about everything else, except economy). 


Anyway, given your priorities, those Nexen N'blues aren't a bad choice.

(Nexen N'Blue ECO - B, C, 74 so nominally they are a bit noisy and the 'C' in the wet isn't the best, but they are about half the price of some of the top performing options; note that Nexen N'Fera SU4 (C, B 71) are quieter and better in the wet, according to the EU figures, and not that much more expensive)


 Consider also:

Toyo Proxes CF2s.

Hankook Ventus Prime2 K115

Vredestein Sportrac 5 (maybe the h'kooks above are better)

Hankook Ventus V12 Evo K110 (probably a bit old; there are probably better H'kooks)

Petlas Velox Sport PT741 (Petlas are a bit obscure, but ought to be ok (C, C, 71) and cheap)

Avon ZV5 (bit suspicious about wear)

Fulda Sport Control (a mid priced tyre that isn't all that good on fuel, but has good noise figures; indifferent in most other ways)

Maxtrek Maximus M1 (possible, on the EU figures; not enough info)

Semperit Speed-Life (possible, a bit expensive for mid range perf, though)



I've got a couple of other piles of (virtual) tyres for you


Too expensive (although, if someone has an offer...):


Dunlop Sport BluResponse

Goodyear Efficient Grip Performance

Goodyear Efficient Grip (older design than EGPs, but probably closer to your requirements; still too expensive, though)

Uniroyal Rainsport 3 (good tyres, but not the longest lasting, and a bit expensive)

Michelin Primacy 3 (good all round tyre, apart from the price - not so bad over the life of a tyre, though)

Pirelli Cinturato P7 Blue (good, but expensive)

Continental Conti-SportContact 5

Continental Conti-EcoContact 5



Not eco enough (and it can't really be good value if it just causes you to use loads of fuel, can it?)

Hankook Ventus S1 Evo2 K117

Nexen CP 661

Nexen N'Fera SU1 (SU4 seem to have better fuel figures)

Matador MP 46 Hectorra 2

Sailun Atrezzo Z4 Plus AS (indifferent, but cheap though!)

Kleber Dynaxer Hp3 (better than those sailuns)

Barum Bravuris 3 (the earlier Brav 2 are an excellently constructed tyre that has poorer fuel eff, and can be noisy; Brav 3; not sure yet)

Kumho Ecsta SPT KU31 (numb steering when on front and not economical)

In Topic: New Alternator, Battery Going Dead?!

21 October 2014 - 08:07 PM

He said he saw a spark about 12 inches long shoot out around the left of battery box across towards engine. 


I don't know what that means, but it seems significant. I mean it isn't totally normal for 12 inch long sparks to be emerging from anywhere, in the same way that it is probably a bad day if I have to dodge Godzilla to get to work. Given that it is the battery box and that the battery is in there and it is the battery that is at question, maybe there is a connection between the flame coming from the battery box and the limited life of the battery.


Original battery was a ford branded one, replaced with a Bosch from halfords, had a 5 year guarantee so I claimed after 20 months. They don't do Bosch anymore, so i was given a Yuasa of the same value.


OK, so assuming that your Ford battery was original fit ( ~5 years life would be neither dramatically good nor dramatically bad), then, at least, things seem to have been ok for most of its life.


The question then is whether the replacement batteries were of the correct spec. What spec were they?


Car regularly sits on 11.7 volts before started, then voltage typically jumps anywhere up to about 13.9 but then almost immediately back to 12.2. However some days I will only get 11.0 (these are the days when I expect car to not start once parked up).


So, the car doesn't start, sometimes.


You are seeing 11.0 volts, sometimes (is this when it is still running or after you have switched off?). When you have seen this, it is predictable that it doesn't start?