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BOF

Member Since 02 Nov 2012
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 09:06 PM
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Posts I've Made

In Topic: Rear Speakers Stopped Working

Yesterday, 04:02 PM

i) If you've got the normal spare wheel well (space saver spare, a jack and various small bits and pieces) then you don't have a woofer there.

 

ii) If there is an additional amp, I'm guessing that the rear three quarters are the most likely places (that is at the vehicle sides, just forward of the light clusters).

 

Really, it would be nice if someone with the same car answered, because I'm only extrapolating (or, to use a different word, guessing) from Mondy experience/knowledge.


In Topic: Rear Speakers Stopped Working

Yesterday, 11:33 AM

 

 


 

Considering it must be a multi-plug on back for all speakers it seems doubtful it would be a connection on back of stereo?! I have been sticking a bike in the back recently but I can't see anything that could have been affected with that.

 

Not necessarily true: on the Mondy, the version with the 'super special extra hifi plus' system has a separate connector for the rear speakers and amp. I can't really remember which version of the travelpilot that is, but it would be the one with the subwoofer in the wheel well. Really, it is only if you have the separate amp I can see the diagnostics being sophisticated enough to detect that the separate amp isn't responding, but I could be wrong.

 

Given the comment about the bike, I'd guess, if you have an external amp, the first thing to check is the wiring around the external amp, because dislodging wiring is probably easy to do.


In Topic: Mk4 57 Plate Titanium X 2.0 140

24 February 2015 - 05:29 PM

If the engine revs increase without the speed of the wheels increasing (no nasty graunching noise from the gearbox, no squealing of tortured rubber from the tyres, and the speedo reading stays constant or only increases 'normally'), then there is a problem with the clutch.

 

If the clutch pedal is very high, it could be something to do with that.

 

Failing that, I am afraid that you are down to actual clutch problems. There is a possibility that oil/fluid is getting on to the clutch plates, but the more likely thing is that the clutch material has worn and the clutch needs replacing. I think I can safely describe this job as a bit of a pain, so the labour charge will be significant.

 

I don't know where the best place to go is, but Ford will be expensive.


In Topic: Problems Fuelling Mk4 With "easy Fuel" Cap

23 February 2015 - 12:42 AM

I also find that Shell is more difficult than other brands of fuel station (and I don't know why). What I also find is that if you put the nozzle in, in the natural way, and then hold the handle over to one side (so you move the handle over to, eg, the left and the nozzle pivots to the right) you can fill at a reasonable rate; not necessarily the full rate that the pump would do, but fast enough so that no one thinks that you trying to put a full tanker's worth in.

 

The idea of the 'easy fuel' (odd name, given that it doesn't really make fuelling easier) is that a Diesel nozzle fills a a Diesel and a Petrol Nozzle fills a Petrol, and not the other way around.


In Topic: Service Gone Expensive!

20 February 2015 - 07:53 PM

 

Just had my car back from its 10 year service (122k miles...) and its looking interesting for the MOT
 
Advisories include:
 
1 tyre needed (2.0mm across)
 
Wheel allignment needs doing (rear toe is past 16 degrees)
 
sidelamp bulbs need replacing (one so may as well do both!) - currently LED's though
 
Rear plate bulbs flickering (LED Bulbs again)
 
Coolant staining around engine metail pipe housing (its fine because the leak is plugged anyway!)
 
battery jump post strap loose, not securing (I dont know if they mean the post itself, or the earthing strap, as the earth strap needs tightining up with a proper bolt, its currently bodged lol)
 
12v live on battery not totally tightening (they refer again to none ford battery!)
 
Brake fluid replacement (£45)
 
Cambelt / Chain renew - Unquoted! (gulps)
 
Rear brake discs and pads need replacing (95% worn!) quoted £189
 
Front brake discs and pads need replacing (£229)
 
Rear Exhaust Pipe going into rear box corroding - £264
 
Both rear trailing arm bushes starting to seperate - £690
 
Sump Pan corroded but no leaks     yet  - £421.24
 
So total cost for all parts repaired - £1882!
 
Thinking I will be tackling some if not most of these jobs myself! I found a full set of disks and pads for £100, as I cant afford the 50 - 70 per corner, I think they will have to do! even then I recon I could still get a good 50k miles out of them!
 
As for the exhaust pipe, the trailing arm bushes and sump plug... who knows!
 
Haynes, Here I Come!
 
 

 

 

Absurd. Those prices are completely absurd.

 

The rear toe value, if it really is 16 degrees out, is way out. I'm surprised you hadn't noticed, but maybe that's what has caused your tyre to be worn away. (The price of a tyre will depend quite heavily on what size it is, but the only advice that I'd offer is that you should try to avoid 'Cheap chinese rubbish', and that not all suppliers of secondhand tyres are really trustworthy, so, if you go down the secondhand route, be very careful)

 

Even vaguely pointing in the right direction has to be better than that.

 

For your bulbs, can you just put back the old-fashioned ones? People like LEDs, but sometimes they are just more trouble than they are worth.

 

Coolant staining: who cares? It's not an MoT issue, and its not a driving issue. Same thing sump pan, provided that it doesn't start leaking. If it does, it is, potentially, a pain, though. 

 

Exhaust? All exhausts are corroding, its what they do. If it gets to the point that it starts leaking, that's an MoT fail. At that point, a visit to an exhaust centre will probably get you a far better price.

 

Disks and pads: it might be worth asking your MoT man what he thinks of the disks, as they might be being conservative, there. In any case, decent quality pads are available at a reasonable price, and even getting someone other that Ford to fit will save you loads. Fitting yourself will save even more.

 

Brake fluid is a safety issue, but it isn't directly an MoT fail issue. I'd guess that the Ford people are just saying on the basis of time since the last change, rather than percentage of water absorbed, so you can probably do all the brake stuff at the same time, flushing the fluid once you've done the pads, etc. One warning about the 'Eazibleed' type systems; you don't always get all of the air out in one person operation; with two people (which isn't what is advertised as the advantage of them), you can always do it, so have an assistant, at least on standby.

 

Trailing arms are one thing that will be a bit expensive, if you buy the trailing arms themselves. More usually, an independent would remove the old bushes and press in new ones, and that will be cheaper. Still not cheap, but cheaper.

 

Battery: you can be surprised how little resistance it needs to make starting more difficult, and an intermittant connection while the battery is charging is real trouble, so you need to get this right. Fortunately, it is more about taking the time to do it well, than spending big money (and making sure that it is done up tight enough).