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BOF

Member Since 02 Nov 2012
Offline Last Active Today, 05:54 PM
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Posts I've Made

In Topic: Air Conditioning

Yesterday, 07:59 AM

A (small) puddle is normal, a big one isn't. However, I'd say that was most likely down to (relatively) high temps and quite high levels of humidity, recently.

 

As the Captain points out, the job that you are asking the air con to do is to dry out and cool the air, and the more humid that air is, the more water comes out. It has to go somewhere, and on the ground is surely a better place for it than in the car.


In Topic: Shopping For A Mondeo

26 July 2014 - 09:05 AM

, perhaps you could clear up the difference in the trim levels for me (titanium / titanium x / titanium x sport) 

That'll take some time as I'll have to find an old Mondeo brochure. I'm sure that i have one somewhere. Just be aware that it did change over time (the options were different post facelift than pre). And, also, some of the stuff that, for example, made an X sport an X Sport was also available as an individual option lower down the range.

 

And, for wheels and tyres you tend to be able (at least) to buy the ones from 'one up the range' as an individual option. Personally, I wouldn't really want to go 'up 'from 235/45/17s, but that's just me being old and boring, I suspect, but you shouldn't just assume that the top of the range will be what you want (and want to pay extra for) because it is top of the range.

 

 

And is there a 2.2 engine option available on anything that isn't a sport? I do like the idea of the extra torque and BHP of the 2.2 simply because more is better, or at least that's my view (who likes moderation anyways?)  

 

 

As you have seen, 2.2 is available elsewhere. Unfortunately, anything above the 2 litre/140 bhp gets increasingly rare. Just have a look on, eg, Autotrader, and you'll see that 163/175/200 hp motors are not there in the same numbers that 140s are.

 

Titaniums are moderately common, but Sports and Sport Xs aren't that common.

 

So, that part depends on how hard you are prepared to work to get the car that you want. Assuming that you've also got a fairly strong preference about colour, you can make this very hard for yourself indeed. But, that's up to you, of course.

 

(sorry about the presentation of this post, but the web site is snafu again: can't cure it, so I have to ignore it!)


In Topic: Shopping For A Mondeo

24 July 2014 - 06:02 PM

Sorry, I was comparing the 2.2L and 2.0L diesels, 175 and 155 bhp respectively I think. Mostly looking at 2009 titanium x models with roughly 70,000 miles which usually lands right in my price range.

 

Assuming that we are talking 'out of the box' (not including re-mapped) figures.

 

The 2.2 will be a 175 at that age (but there is also a later 200 bhp 2.2...which seems to have come in just before the Mk 4 to Mk 4.5 transition).

 

There isn't a 155 2 litre. There was a 155 2.2 (?) Mk 3, but that didn't get into the Mk IV. There are 140 and 163 bhp 2.0 litres, but the 163 wasn't available from the onset, and probably came in at the same time as the 200 bhp 2.2 litre.

 

In essence, the revision around 2010 improved the Euro CO2/fuel economy figures. My suspicion is that the real world figures improved less than the Euro figures, but that's only a suspicion and difficult to verify.

 

In any case, if you believe the Euro figures, which I don't completely, having the 2.2 litre engine rather than the 2.0, makes the Urban figures worse more than it makes the Extra-urban ones. So, if you drive mostly motorway and dual carriageways, you'll probably not notice much difference and maybe a good 2.2 litre would be as good as bad 2 litre, in that case. 

 

Just wondering whether the 2.2 titanium x sport is worth the money over the 2.0 titanium x. The sport seems a lot more rare.

 

Personally, I wouldn't go for the X sport, or even the X for that matter, but it depends what you want. First, you mention rarity and that makes finding the one that you want that much harder. Secondly, what are you getting that you want? The titanium is already pretty well equipped. You do get the 'power start' button, you might get half or full leather, heated or not, (actually, full leather is so rare as to be almost non-existent) and you get less comfortable tyres/suspension. Discharge lighting? But I think that's an option lower down the range. The Sat Nav is an option lower down as well (and I'd rather have a TomTom standalone, but if you are very intolerant of wires and the stick on cup, that would be a factor).

 

So, there has to be something there that is worth the money to you, or it isn't worth it.


In Topic: Alternator Loom

23 July 2014 - 07:43 PM

Ugh, why does everybody seem to be having alternator/battery problems, these days?

 

First, you seem to say that you have replaced the battery (is that right?), what type of battery do you have? Does it say 'silver' or 'silver calcium' on it? If not, you've got the 'wrong' battery, but in a way, you've lucked out.

 

That is, the older batteries are not intended for the 'smart charge' system that is on modern fords, but you can turn your smart charge system into a non-smart system by leaving off the additional connector. the alternator then defaults back to 'dumb' and 'dumb' is exactly what an old battery expects.

 

For 'dumb' you need three connections; an earth, a high current charging wire and a line from the dash light to the alternator field connector.

 

The earth connection may or may not be a wire; quite often the alternator picks up eath via the engine block and that picks up earth via a big wire (also has to take the starter current, so it will be a really thick wire) back to the car bodywork, probably in the close vicinity of the battery, so there may not be a wire connecting the earth to the alternator. If there isn't a wire, it is quite possible that due to a bad connection from the alternator to the engine or the engine to the car body, there is a voltage drop and that voltage drop would reduce the charging of the battery, which would not be a good thing.

 

Out of the two other wires in the 'basic' system one ought to be thicker than the other; often there are two spade connectors and the bigger spade connector is for the heavier wire. This is the line that takes the higher current back to the battery; given that, over time, this current has to balance the current taken, this can be quite a high current. In this simple system, this wire is also used for the alternator to sense the battery voltage, and if the battery voltage really climbs up, as sensed on this lead, the charge current reduces.

 

You have to have the charge lead and the earth connection, or you wouldn't be getting any charging, but you could have a high resistance in one of these leads, and that might reduce the charging quite a lot, but you'd still get some charging and you might be able to survive that, although it would give the battery an unnecessarily hard time.

 

The system with the lamp actually does two things with one connection: when the alternator isn't working (engine at 0 rpm, for example), nothing is coming out of the alternator, and the lamp comes on, warning you if the alternator is not working. The second action is slightly more subtle;  before the alternator starts, there is no energy for the field winding, and so the alternator doesn't start (...this isn't quite true, but it doesn't start when it should...) and because the alternator doesn't start, there is no energy for the field winding.

 

Now, the current through the lamp does provide the energy for the alternator field to start up, so that cures one problem, and the fact that the alternator starts up raises the voltage on this pin so that the light goes out. 

 

Now, if you have the smart system (which you really should have, for one of the higher-spec Silver/Calcium batteries), you will have those connections, plus some extra.

 

The first is a simple comms line (at least on a Mk IV); this is used so that the a module in the car can turn up the voltage (slightly) so that battery charge can be replenished more rapidly after a high load, and charging can be increased in foot-off deceleration.

 

The next connection that you should have is an extra battery connection; this allows an accurate reading of the battery voltage, not corrupted by the IR voltage drop in the high current connection. It ought to be easy to spot this because it has the battery voltage on it (and the system ought to work, albeit less accurately, without this connection).

 

There may also be a secondary earth connection back to the battery, probably a green- or a black-coloured wire. It should be easy enough to check with an ohmmeter that one of the connections goes back there

 

This should only leave the 'adjust' wire, and that'll be the other one!


In Topic: Shopping For A Mondeo

22 July 2014 - 09:03 PM

Which 2.2 are you comparing with which 2.0?

 

Chains vs Belts: Chains are usually considered to be 'for life' and belts 125k. Some people want to change belts before that, but I haven't seen any reliable evidence that changing the belt before that really does anything useful (if there is a constant failure rate and a wear out, then changing the belt early just changes which vehicles have the failure, rather than the overall number of failures).

 

Belts can make the cam timing more reliable and more repeatable, I think,  which has more of an effect on economy and emissions than power output.

 

A failure is a bad thing, of course. Usually, you might as well consider the engine to be wrecked, as the price to repair will be quite high.