Sorry, that wasn't really clear enough; I know what I meant, but you wouldn't necessarily know that from reading what I wrote. The vaseline should be put on the terminals after they have been assembled and tightened up.
It isn't, however, a big problem if you do it first (or have some vaseline smeared around from the previous time that it has been done and don't clean it up perfectly) because the excess gets squeezed out and the vaseline just ends up in places where there would otherwise be an air gap. If it doesn't, then you haven't got the terminals tight enough...
You are right that vaseline doesn't conduct electricity, and that's unhelpful, and keeping the contact surfaces apart with vaseline would be bad.
The problem of contact corrosion seems to have become less evident over the years, though, presumably as batteries have become better at keeping any corrosive fumes internally and not venting them. I still do the vaseline thing, possibly as much out of habit as anything else, but you do know that terminals assembled dry are going to be ok, when assembled new, but it is a little less clear how they would be after 4 - 8 years, however long the battery naturally lasts.
Yes, but for me, that's not necessarily adequate. Ideally, I would want to be able to control the DAB radio from the head unit display, particularly if I've just paid to get a nice display.
Putting the DAB unit in, say, the glovebox or that region is adequate if the head unit can control it. If I need the add-on unit itself on display, its going to have to be neat, and not all are, and need no trailing wires all over the place, or what's the point (and, I've already got one that I don't use, because of the trailing wires and the additional box cluttering up the windscreen, already having a sat nav on the screen. Two boxes, two power cables a cigar lighter splitter and one on-screen antenna is very clearly too much for me.)
Here is, I think, the original e-bay/uk advert for the eonon unit, but it is now ~£320 and unavailable. I'm sure, when it was available it was more like half that price, or lower. No idea whether it will become available again, or at what price (some sellers put the price up when they don't have any). The G2110 is an Android unit at around £200.
I had never heard of 'Joyous' before, so, if nothing else, thanks for that.
They are attractive and tempting, but I haven't seen one with integrated DAB, yet. You might want to compare with this eonon unit, which is available from somewhere in the UK (ie, whoever it is quotes £ prices and sensible shipping, although I'm assuming they are an importer - probably was on e-bay), although that link seems to be the generic US advert.
The eonon mentions 'Win CE', which isn't an advantage (to me), but it is unclear if the full Head Unit runs that, or whether it is only to do with the GPS function, which is where they mention it. Neither seems to have any traffic functionality, although, maybe, if you buy, just as an example, TomTom software for an Android unit, you can make traffic work somehow, possibly. (I've got a good sat nav with traffic, but getting the clutter of cables out of the way would be nice, too. OTOH, being able to take the sat nav indoors to add POIs, play with settings and pre-set routes is good, too, so there are advantages either way. Getting the sat nav off the screen might be the one that sways it, though.)
In the other eonon ad that I saw, there was some mention of a DAB module, but it wasn't standard, as far as I could tell, and it wasn't clear how you got it or for how much or how it all fitted together.
But for me, I've decided that I won't spend anything other than trivial cash on anything that doesn't get me the DAB radio stations, so I keep looking and thinking 'maybe the follow-up model...'. (Probably DAB and pre-outs are my minimum requirements, and so far, DAB has been the difficult one to find.)
In spite of your direction, I did have a brief look at Euro Car Parts, and couldn't see much difference in the battery prices - they always seem to have some offer or sale, but for things that you can get elsewhere, that still doesn't necessarily make them the cheapest.
From a purely financial point of view, I wouldn't buy one, unless you can get an el enormoso discount. And even then, I'm not sure...
The new model is just round the corner, and that will influence the depreciation. I suppose, if you really do keep the car 10+ years, the car won't be expected to be worth much at the end, so it might not might not make much difference in the end, but all that time you've been driving the older model...
Comfort is good, unless you specify the lowest profile tyres, as you might expect. For economy, it is good for such a big car, provided that you buy a diesel. It isn't as good as the Official Figures, but then that's common to many cars.
That can be a mistake. (And, I didn't say is, but can be.) If there is any voltage difference between earth at the back of the car and earth where the HU connects (and there will be), this can be seen as noise on the input to the amplifier. Then, it comes down to the frequency spectrum of that noise, any attenuation on the input (to what extent you are using high level inputs) and the response of the sub at the frequencies in question.
So, once you;ve got it hooked up, have a listen and see if any strange noises (ignition/injection, alternator, switching on and off, eg, the heated rear window, etc) are making their way through to the acoustic output. If not, you are good to go, if so, you've got a bit more to do.
The 'electrically correct' place to connect is as a start ground, to the same place that the HU gets its ground, but there may well be other places that work, depending on how critical you are and the characteristics of the various bits in your system.
I live in cambridge and have texaco, shell, bp and supermarket chains tesco and sainsburys
I know that Texaco garage, and they don't have much turnover (which makes me worry about how long it is sloshing around their tanks) and, because they do not have much turnover, their prices are a bit high when they are on their way down, but can be reasonable when they are going up.
In that area there is also a Shell with a fair turnover (Fourwentways) who are usually reasonably priced.
There is a weird situation with some of the BP stations (it is actually a particular chain, rather than BP themselves) but there are stations that do a 'Cheap Fuel two days a week' deal; if you ever see the 'Cheap Fuel Two Days a Week' boards out, you can mentally add the words '...but you are out of luck, because today is not one of those days'. So, that'll be a couple of days on which their fuel is 2p cheaper. This is also the same chain that puts '3p off' tokens into some local papers, so, by combining those, you can get 5p off. I'll just add that whether you get 5p off, or not, makes a difference to how you look at their fuel prices, and, combined, it is probably cheaper than the supermarket options.
The only Sains would be Coldhams Lane, and they seem to blow hot and cold on pricing; they are either at about the same region as everyone else around Cambridge, or a couple of pence cheaper, and you can't tell which it is going to be in advance.
I've been a bit disappointed , by the prices at the Bar Hill or the A10 Tescos; at the very least, I'd have expected the big Tescos at BH to be cheap, but it isn't particularly.
Compare fuel prices with Stevenage or Grantham (places that I drive past occasionally, and will fill up on my way past), and there are clearly cheaper prices around.
Just doing a little research has told me that there are at least 3 variants of this engine, with different levels of CO2 emissions,...159...139...and the latest being 119 which I assume has a dpf fitted.
The car I have my eye on locally is a 10 reg, which I think is co/2=159, road tax=£180.
Do they all have a dpf? or maybe just the 119/co2?
Any help or pointers would be very helpfull, Thanks.
If the concern is the DPF, I think all of the 2 litre Mk IV Diesels have one. I think that early Mk IV 1.8 diesels might not have, but I am unsure about the cut-off date.
Probably an early 10 is a pre-facelift and would be the higher CO2 value, which I thought was 154. At the facelift, emissions were improved (by about 10 - 20, or so). There was also an 'eco' version with 125 BHP, but that had probably disappeared by the time frame that you are talking about (I don't really know when it disappeared, but it was pretty useless, imho, as it wasn't really much more economical than the standard 140...although, you could probably re-map to 140+ levels, if that's what floats your boat; at least smaller engined versions have a more worthwhile CO2/economy impact, even though it is a big old bus and is better with a fair amount of grunt to move it around).
The first reg date isn't an entirely reliable guide, as the car may have stood around on a dealer's lot, unregistered. Or, not. And that might make, say, six months difference.
Better would be to check from the reg on Etis, but better still would be check the vehicle documents. And if the dealer won't let you see the docs, you'd have to get rather suspicious.
I have a 2006 Ford Focus and the battery light has been coming on and off for the past 8 months. I am going on a long road trip so I feel I really need to address this issue.
So, address the issue. If you can't do something about it yourself, pay someone else to do it.
Also the light comes on for what seems like a every 20 minutes or so for a couple of minutes.
If that's what it does and keeps doing, you can probably survive that in daylight and if you are careful. On the other hand, there is no guarantee that it won't get worse and come on for 20 minutes with only two minutes working in between, and you won't survive that.
Another thing is that I feel like it starting happening after getting an aftermarket stereo installed.Another thing is that I feel like it starting happening after getting an aftermarket stereo installed.
Did you install the stereo, or did a professional do it? Do you know what wiring might have been disturbed?
Is this an issue to worry about or should I be ok for my road trip?
There is no evidence that you will be ok. You might get lucky. Or, not. How bad would it be if you broke down?
I drive 40 minutes on a daily basis and have no problems. Do you think an 8 hour road trip would be a bad idea
Well, you can only guess, but, if it was bad, it could be very bad.
Why not get it fixed? If you break down on a twenty minute trip that's one thing - you are always reasonably close to one end the other. Eight hours is different.
Do you have any voltage readings? Currents? How old is the battery? Do you trust the people who said that your battery and alternator were ok? What testing did they do?
Probably the biggest problem with light bulbs is consistency from one sample to another. The trouble is, unless you have an abnormal consumption of bulbs, it is difficult to comment on that, because you only get through a small number, and then can only compare with the last one, and if that one was misaligned but adjusted, you'll conclude that the new one is 'bad' where it was really the old one.
Anyway, I note that while the Auto Express tests on headlight bulbs used to be an Osram benefit, recently Phillips have started taking the top spot.
That said, recently I have been using Osram, largely because they're the only ones I've seen at a reasonable price (Halfords sometimes have two-for-one offers, but they didn't last time I bought, so it was off to Autobulbs Direct).
Think I am just going to have to take it into a garage get it checked out.
I think that's right. While I suspect that it is clutch/dmf, there is only so much that you can do via a forum. In this case it stops short of being certain.
One other thing; if you have a noise at idle, and it changes as you depress the clutch, that would almost certainly be DMF/clutch.
63 k would be a bit early for a gearbox problem, but, if someone drove it aggressively, who knows? On the other hand, people do think that you start to see DMF failures from about 80k, so while it is still a bit early for that, it isn't by all that much. And, you can accelerate DMF wear-out by driving badly, and that isn't the same as driving aggressively; some of the worst will be those who think that, because they have a diesel, they should be able to pootle around at 1400 rpm in any gear (I don't know where that idea comes from).
The rattling that you mention in post #3 does sound like DMF. Prior to reading that, I'd thought synchromesh getting worn or the gearbox oil going off (or, maybe, the clutch not disengaging fully). That would tend to make gear changes more difficult, so if gear changes are still fairly slick, it is more likely to be DMF.
So the problem was an incorrect exhaust valve fitted by previous owner(s)/mechanic.
The valve was 1mm too short in total length, quite possible a tad thinner stem as well although I didn't have the means to measure that, just an assumption based on the oil getting into cylinder.
I'm currently in the process of putting the engine all back together
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Err, I have to point out that I'd have never have guessed the 'previous owner fitted completely wrong valve' scenario. Just goes to show, particularly with a newly purchased vehicle, you can never dismiss stuff out of hand, however unlikely.
I'll just point out that my local garage, many years ago, had a car in that sounded wrong. The smart money seemed to be on something in the bottom end of the engine, although there was disagreement about exactly whether it was the big ends, or not. When they pulled the engine to pieces it was clear that someone had fabricated their own piston. From wood. No one had guessed that.
PS Hope it is running well now, and you are now enjoying the car.