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Member Since 02 Nov 2012
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#463184 Engine Rebuild Required [Advice Request]

Posted by BOF on 09 March 2015 - 05:17 PM

I would be looking for a replacement rather than a rebuild, as its probably a darned site easier to find a breaker.


There are some sites that will let you send a query to several sites at once; 'breakerlink' is one name that I remember, but I can't really make a recommendation, not really having used them for anything oily, or difficult to deliver. Anyway, the competition aspect seems to work in your favour, in this case.


Mate of mine just bought a full car for £104...


Not sure that could eat a whole one...but that's cheaper than a couple of drop links, for example... 


Either way though, you have been unlucky. I would be tracing back over my steps, see if there is any sign of oil where I previously was. If you see patches of oil, you can contest that you let it run dry because of a failure which resulted in the sudden loss of all oil. Which would certainly be covered by your warranty.


Essentially, if the oil came out pretty suddenly, it doesn't matter if you were checking the oil weekly or monthly, it would have still gone in between oil checks (unless someone thinks that the oil is suddenly vomited out while it is sitting still on your drive, just while you are checking it, and while it is switched off - that seems incredibly implausible, but it is what they have to be suggesting, if periodic oil checks are going to catch it, just as it happens; otherwise you'd be driving it when it happened, and then you've got the same situation as you have now). Its better if you can say 'look, there is the hole it came out of', but if it is clear that it was sudden you should be off the hook.


I'll also go back to the oil warning light; I'm still surprised that you didn't see that come on. If, for example, what has happened is that the oil pressure light has been disabled (eg, because it had a habit of coming on, and the person who sold it to the garage didn't want that to show, and it had been that way when the car was sold), you should also be off the hook, because they sold the car with the 'safety feature' that made this unlikely disabled.


(The 'oil light' is a low oil pressure warning, and you would expect the oil pressure to go low before everything failed. In fact, in the short term, you could argue that, if the oil pressure doesn't go low, the engine should keep on running, although that might be a bit difficult if the car is being thrashed. But the likeliest is that the oil pressure light flickers before it gets irretrievably bad, as the oil level goes low, and the pump has difficulty picking up oil.)

#462961 Engine Problems Mk Mondeo

Posted by BOF on 09 March 2015 - 09:25 AM

I am more thinking having spent 6k on a car that a month and a half after purchase suffers a critical engine failure. How strong is my legal position in seeking a refund. This car seems to be a lemon and no longer have any faith in it....or the dealer who inspected the white smoke and wooing noise twice before and admitted the other day they have not checked the egr valve yet


I have to say that I am most worried by the fact that the dealer has either

  • been unlucky
  • is useless

from this distance, you can't tell which, but, if they are useless and they are about to replace the engine, that gives me cause for concern.


The car itself seems to have been, effectively, unmaintained for a significant time, and while that's also a worry, the thing that I'd be most worried about (engine/gearbox/dmf/injectors) is about to be replaced.


One thing that you may want to think about, is that what you thought that you had bought was a low mileage car (although, I always say that I am not worried about higher mileage, provided the car has been serviced regularly and cared for; so, my personal opinion is that low mileage is often over-valued).


What presumably you wouldn't want, though, is a low mileage car with a high mileage engine... so, at the risk of sounding pretentious about all this, you'd probably want to know something about the provenance of the engine.

#458205 Mk4 57 Plate Titanium X 2.0 140

Posted by BOF on 24 February 2015 - 05:29 PM

If the engine revs increase without the speed of the wheels increasing (no nasty graunching noise from the gearbox, no squealing of tortured rubber from the tyres, and the speedo reading stays constant or only increases 'normally'), then there is a problem with the clutch.


If the clutch pedal is very high, it could be something to do with that.


Failing that, I am afraid that you are down to actual clutch problems. There is a possibility that oil/fluid is getting on to the clutch plates, but the more likely thing is that the clutch material has worn and the clutch needs replacing. I think I can safely describe this job as a bit of a pain, so the labour charge will be significant.


I don't know where the best place to go is, but Ford will be expensive.

#452155 How Do U Add Yours ? Diesel Additives ---

Posted by BOF on 06 February 2015 - 02:45 PM

...alternatively, I have a RedEx bottle with a small tapering exit hole (I'm trying to avoid saying anything rude, but it still sounds daft) and that is usable, provided that you dribble the stuff in. This isn't the standard for a RedEx bottle these days, but it is an old bottle which I refill as necessary.

#444512 Oil Service Measage?

Posted by BOF on 13 January 2015 - 09:50 PM

Perhaps it has come up because you are due for an oil service?


Depending on car, it can be activated on distance or time since it was last reset.

#436883 Battery Change On Mk4 2.2Tdci

Posted by BOF on 15 December 2014 - 11:25 AM

Sorry, that wasn't really clear enough; I know what I meant, but you wouldn't necessarily know that from reading what I wrote. The vaseline should be put on the terminals after they have been assembled and tightened up.


It isn't, however, a big problem if you do it first (or have some vaseline smeared around from the previous time that it has been done and don't clean it up perfectly) because the excess gets squeezed out and the vaseline just ends up in places where there would otherwise be an air gap. If it doesn't, then you haven't got the terminals tight enough...


You are right that vaseline doesn't conduct electricity, and that's unhelpful, and keeping the contact surfaces apart with vaseline would be bad.


The problem of contact corrosion seems to have become less evident over the years, though, presumably as batteries have become better at keeping any corrosive fumes internally and not venting them. I still do the vaseline thing, possibly as much out of habit as anything else, but you do know that terminals assembled dry are going to be ok, when assembled new, but it is a little less clear how they would be after 4 - 8 years, however long the battery naturally lasts.

#432582 Chinese Units

Posted by BOF on 28 November 2014 - 09:30 PM

Yes, but for me, that's not necessarily adequate. Ideally, I would want to be able to control the DAB radio from the head unit display, particularly if I've just paid to get a nice display.


Putting the DAB unit in, say, the glovebox or that region is adequate if the head unit can control it. If I need the add-on unit itself on display, its going to have to be neat, and not all are, and need no trailing wires all over the place, or what's the point (and, I've already got one that I don't use, because of the trailing wires and the additional box cluttering up the windscreen, already having a sat nav on the screen. Two boxes, two power cables a cigar lighter splitter and one on-screen antenna is very clearly too much for me.)



Here is, I think, the original e-bay/uk advert for the eonon unit, but it is now ~£320 and unavailable. I'm sure, when it was available it was more like half that price, or lower. No idea whether it will become available again, or at what price (some sellers put the price up when they don't have any). The G2110 is an Android unit at around £200.

#432463 Chinese Units

Posted by BOF on 28 November 2014 - 03:03 PM

I had never heard of 'Joyous' before, so, if nothing else, thanks for that.


They are attractive and tempting, but I haven't seen one with integrated DAB, yet. You might want to compare with this eonon unit, which is available from somewhere in the UK (ie, whoever it is quotes £ prices and sensible shipping, although I'm assuming they are an importer - probably was on e-bay), although that link seems to be the generic US advert.


The eonon mentions 'Win CE', which isn't an advantage (to me), but it is unclear if the full Head Unit runs that, or whether it is only to do with the GPS function, which is where they mention it. Neither seems to have any traffic functionality, although, maybe, if you buy, just as an example, TomTom software for an Android unit, you can make traffic work somehow, possibly. (I've got a good sat nav with traffic, but getting the clutter of cables out of the way would be nice, too. OTOH, being able to take the sat nav indoors to add POIs, play with settings and pre-set routes is good, too, so there are advantages either way. Getting the sat nav off the screen might be the one that sways it, though.)


In the other eonon ad that I saw, there was some mention of a DAB module, but it wasn't standard, as far as I could tell, and it wasn't clear how you got it or for how much or how it all fitted together.


But for me, I've decided that I won't spend anything other than trivial cash on anything that doesn't get me the DAB radio stations, so I keep looking and thinking 'maybe the follow-up model...'. (Probably DAB and pre-outs are my minimum requirements, and so far, DAB has been the difficult one to find.)


Close, though.

#432416 Discount Batteries For Black Friday

Posted by BOF on 28 November 2014 - 11:43 AM

In spite of your direction, I did have a brief look at Euro Car Parts, and couldn't see much difference in the battery prices - they always seem to have some offer or sale, but for things that you can get elsewhere, that still doesn't necessarily make them the cheapest.


Anyway, here are a few alternatives:








(where the link is to an individual battery, it might not be the battery for your car, but for whatever battery I was comparing at the time).


I've concentrated on suppliers of Varta/Bosch batteries, 'cos I know that they are good, but some of those guys supply quite cheap alternatives that ought to be ok, on a value for money basis, too.

#429714 14 Plate Mondeo Advice

Posted by BOF on 19 November 2014 - 06:20 PM

From a purely financial point of view, I wouldn't buy one, unless you can get an el enormoso discount. And even then, I'm not sure...


The new model is just round the corner, and that will influence the depreciation. I suppose, if you really do keep the car 10+ years, the car won't be expected to be worth much at the end, so it might not might not make much difference in the end, but all that time you've been driving the older model...


Comfort is good, unless you specify the lowest profile tyres, as you might expect. For economy, it is good for such a big car, provided that you buy a diesel. It isn't as good as the Official Figures, but then that's common to many cars.

#426001 Worth It? Sub

Posted by BOF on 06 November 2014 - 06:35 PM

Well, what Gumtree think is that it is no longer available, whatever it was. Maybe that means it was good value, maybe not, who knows?

#418829 Sub Routing Mk1 Focus 2002

Posted by BOF on 13 October 2014 - 09:55 AM

I'd like to keep the ground as short as possible. 


That can be a mistake. (And, I didn't say is, but can be.) If there is any voltage difference between earth at the back of the car and earth where the HU connects (and there will be), this can be seen as noise on the input to the amplifier. Then, it comes down to the frequency spectrum of that noise, any attenuation on the input (to what extent you are using high level inputs) and the response of the sub at the frequencies in question.


So, once you;ve got it hooked up, have a listen and see if any strange noises (ignition/injection, alternator, switching on and off, eg, the heated rear window, etc) are making their way through to the acoustic output. If not, you are good to go, if so, you've got a bit more to do.


The 'electrically correct' place to connect is as a start ground, to the same place that the HU gets its ground, but there may well be other places that work, depending on how critical you are and the characteristics of the various bits in your system.

#418109 Supermarket Diesel = Hesitancy/hunting?

Posted by BOF on 10 October 2014 - 06:30 PM

 I live in cambridge and have texaco, shell, bp and supermarket chains tesco and sainsburys


I know that Texaco garage, and they don't have much turnover (which makes me worry about how long it is sloshing around their tanks) and, because they do not have much turnover, their prices are a bit high when they are on their way down, but can be reasonable when they are going up.


In that area there is also a Shell with a fair turnover (Fourwentways) who are usually reasonably priced.


There is a weird situation with some of the BP stations (it is actually a particular chain, rather than BP themselves) but there are stations that do a 'Cheap Fuel two days a week' deal; if you ever see the 'Cheap Fuel Two Days a Week' boards out, you can mentally add the words '...but you are out of luck, because today is not one of those days'. So, that'll be a couple of days on which their fuel is 2p cheaper. This is also the same chain that puts '3p off' tokens into some local papers, so, by combining those, you can get 5p off. I'll just add that whether you get 5p off, or not, makes a difference to how you look at their fuel prices, and, combined, it is probably cheaper than the supermarket options.


The only Sains would be Coldhams Lane, and they seem to blow hot and cold on pricing; they are either at about the same region as everyone else around Cambridge, or a couple of pence cheaper, and you can't tell which it is going to be in advance.


I've been a bit disappointed , by the prices at the Bar Hill or the A10 Tescos; at the very least, I'd have expected the big Tescos at BH to be cheap, but it isn't particularly.


Compare fuel prices with Stevenage or Grantham (places that I drive past occasionally, and will fill up on my way past), and there are clearly cheaper prices around.

#418085 Duratorq 2.0 Tdci/140

Posted by BOF on 10 October 2014 - 05:17 PM

Just doing a little research has told me that there are at least 3 variants of this engine, with different levels of CO2 emissions,...159...139...and the latest being  119 which I assume has a dpf fitted.

The car I have my eye on locally is a 10 reg, which I think is co/2=159, road tax=£180.

Do they all have a dpf? or maybe just the 119/co2?

Any help or pointers would be very helpfull,   Thanks.



If the concern is the DPF, I think all of the 2 litre Mk IV Diesels have one. I think that early Mk IV 1.8 diesels might not have, but I am unsure about the cut-off date.


Probably an early 10 is a pre-facelift and would be the higher CO2 value, which I thought was 154. At the facelift, emissions were improved (by about 10 - 20, or so). There was also an 'eco' version with 125 BHP, but that had probably disappeared by the time frame that you are talking about (I don't really know when it disappeared, but it was pretty useless, imho, as it wasn't really much more economical than the standard 140...although, you could probably re-map to 140+ levels, if that's what floats your boat; at least smaller engined versions have a more worthwhile CO2/economy impact, even though it is a big old bus and is better with a fair amount of grunt to move it around).


The first reg date isn't an entirely reliable guide, as the car may have stood around on a dealer's lot, unregistered. Or, not. And that might make, say, six months difference.


Better would be to check from the reg on Etis, but better still would be check the vehicle documents. And if the dealer won't let you see the docs, you'd have to get rather suspicious.

#412168 Battery Light Comes On And Off

Posted by BOF on 22 September 2014 - 01:22 PM

I have a 2006 Ford Focus and the battery light has been coming on and off for the past 8 months. I am going on a long road trip so I feel I really need to address this issue.


So, address the issue. If you can't do something about it yourself, pay someone else to do it.


Also the light comes on for what seems like a every 20 minutes or so for a couple of minutes.


If that's what it does and keeps doing, you can probably survive that in daylight and if you are careful. On the other hand, there is no guarantee that it won't get worse and come on for 20 minutes with only two minutes working in between, and you won't survive that.


Another thing is that I feel like it starting happening after getting an aftermarket stereo installed.Another thing is that I feel like it starting happening after getting an aftermarket stereo installed.

Did you install the stereo, or did a professional do it? Do you know what wiring might have been disturbed?

Is this an issue to worry about or should I be ok for my road trip?


There is no evidence that you will be ok. You might get lucky. Or, not. How bad would it be if you broke down?


I drive 40 minutes on a daily basis and have no problems. Do you think an 8 hour road trip would be a bad idea


Well, you can only guess, but, if it was bad, it could be very bad.


Why not get it fixed? If you break down on a twenty minute trip that's one thing - you are always reasonably close to one end the other. Eight hours is different.


Do you have any voltage readings? Currents? How old is the battery? Do you trust the people who said that your battery and alternator were ok? What testing did they do?


PS: this is not a 'General Site |Request'.