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Member Since 02 Nov 2012
Offline Last Active Today, 11:54 AM

#528988 Front Discs And Pads

Posted by BOF on 04 October 2015 - 11:02 PM

Pagid are also an Original Equipment manufacturer for Porsche, including the Carrera Cup racing cars. That wouldn't be happening if they were all inferior Chinese rubbish.


Eicher, now that is another matter...

#521733 Mkiv Battery Charging

Posted by BOF on 12 September 2015 - 09:04 AM


My Mk IV Mondeo (2L Diesel 2007) has a completely flat battery - no idea why it has drained, but it seemed to happen over the course of a couple of days. 


Unfortunately that does happen. There are some 'conspiracy theories' but probably the best thing to say is that, electrically. the Mondeo is a fairly complex car (as are most these days) and there can be a number of causes.


One thing to keep in mind is that, if that is an original battery, it could be quite down on capacity by now. Or, to put it another way, with the winter coming, it might not have great prospects of surviving through the winter period.


On connection the sidelights started to pulse, so I turned them off. The hazards also began to pulsed and a relay could be heard clicking on and off. I operated the hazard light button, but could not get them to stop pulsing. So I left if for about 20 seconds and the hazards continued to pulse and the relay continued to click. So I gave up trying to charge it.


I can only think that the battery voltage has become so low that various modules are not working correctly, even with the charger connected. How about disconnecting one terminal of the battery, and putting the battery on charge that way, for a long period, and see if the battery recovers?

#496238 Odd Gear Change Problem

Posted by BOF on 17 June 2015 - 06:59 PM

Hmm. When I were a lad, we was learnt to go down the gears one at a time, so you have to say that is a possibility, even if it is not what you want to do.


Presumably, the change gets more co-operative if you double de-clutch?


OTOH, it is possible that the synchro is worn and not as powerful as it would be on a new car (all this missing out gears!), but as you'd have to disassemble the gearbox to do anything about that, you might choose to ignore that possibility.


Another possibility, particularly if the gear change is worse when the oil is cold, is that the oil needs changing. How many miles has the car done?

#490541 Error P0096 Air Intake Temperature Sensor ??

Posted by BOF on 28 May 2015 - 07:18 PM

Often the problem is the wiring and not the sensor itself. Have a look for loose connectors, and shorts to ground, that sort of thing.

#478298 Focus Audio Upgrade Help Needed

Posted by BOF on 20 April 2015 - 08:40 PM

It isn't that it all the same so much as I've never really done back-to-back testing on wire. There are differences, in some cases it may be subtle, but there are real differences.


In general, though, for the high current leads (from the amps to the speaker drive units, the power to an amp or the sub), more copper is better. But, it is all a bit 'what works, works and what doesn't work, doesn't work'.

#478213 Focus Audio Upgrade Help Needed

Posted by BOF on 20 April 2015 - 05:12 PM

Was looking at getting this amp to power the speakers

Does it matter if it is more powerful than my speakers as long as I don't blast the volume?


Well, usually, either the amp is more powerful than the speakers or the speakers are powerful than the amp (although the numbers tend to be quite unreliable, and subject to 'marketing', so you might not even know which is which).


If the speakers are more powerful and you drive the amplifier too hard (in to clipping), the speakers are still at risk. If the amplifier is more powerful, you can drive the speakers too hard, and the speakers are at risk.


So, really, to be safe, you've got to avoid turning the wick up too far, irrespective.


Does it matter what gauge wire I use?

From the amplifier to the drive units, yes, to the under-seat thingy, no (unless you wire to the drive units via the under seat).


Power to the under seat also matters. Obviously, all wires have a current rating, and the fuse should always go first, so the wire has to be higher-rated than the fuse But, broadly, bigger gauge wire is better there.

#463184 Engine Rebuild Required [Advice Request]

Posted by BOF on 09 March 2015 - 05:17 PM

I would be looking for a replacement rather than a rebuild, as its probably a darned site easier to find a breaker.


There are some sites that will let you send a query to several sites at once; 'breakerlink' is one name that I remember, but I can't really make a recommendation, not really having used them for anything oily, or difficult to deliver. Anyway, the competition aspect seems to work in your favour, in this case.


Mate of mine just bought a full car for £104...


Not sure that could eat a whole one...but that's cheaper than a couple of drop links, for example... 


Either way though, you have been unlucky. I would be tracing back over my steps, see if there is any sign of oil where I previously was. If you see patches of oil, you can contest that you let it run dry because of a failure which resulted in the sudden loss of all oil. Which would certainly be covered by your warranty.


Essentially, if the oil came out pretty suddenly, it doesn't matter if you were checking the oil weekly or monthly, it would have still gone in between oil checks (unless someone thinks that the oil is suddenly vomited out while it is sitting still on your drive, just while you are checking it, and while it is switched off - that seems incredibly implausible, but it is what they have to be suggesting, if periodic oil checks are going to catch it, just as it happens; otherwise you'd be driving it when it happened, and then you've got the same situation as you have now). Its better if you can say 'look, there is the hole it came out of', but if it is clear that it was sudden you should be off the hook.


I'll also go back to the oil warning light; I'm still surprised that you didn't see that come on. If, for example, what has happened is that the oil pressure light has been disabled (eg, because it had a habit of coming on, and the person who sold it to the garage didn't want that to show, and it had been that way when the car was sold), you should also be off the hook, because they sold the car with the 'safety feature' that made this unlikely disabled.


(The 'oil light' is a low oil pressure warning, and you would expect the oil pressure to go low before everything failed. In fact, in the short term, you could argue that, if the oil pressure doesn't go low, the engine should keep on running, although that might be a bit difficult if the car is being thrashed. But the likeliest is that the oil pressure light flickers before it gets irretrievably bad, as the oil level goes low, and the pump has difficulty picking up oil.)

#462961 Engine Problems Mk Mondeo

Posted by BOF on 09 March 2015 - 09:25 AM

I am more thinking having spent 6k on a car that a month and a half after purchase suffers a critical engine failure. How strong is my legal position in seeking a refund. This car seems to be a lemon and no longer have any faith in it....or the dealer who inspected the white smoke and wooing noise twice before and admitted the other day they have not checked the egr valve yet


I have to say that I am most worried by the fact that the dealer has either

  • been unlucky
  • is useless

from this distance, you can't tell which, but, if they are useless and they are about to replace the engine, that gives me cause for concern.


The car itself seems to have been, effectively, unmaintained for a significant time, and while that's also a worry, the thing that I'd be most worried about (engine/gearbox/dmf/injectors) is about to be replaced.


One thing that you may want to think about, is that what you thought that you had bought was a low mileage car (although, I always say that I am not worried about higher mileage, provided the car has been serviced regularly and cared for; so, my personal opinion is that low mileage is often over-valued).


What presumably you wouldn't want, though, is a low mileage car with a high mileage engine... so, at the risk of sounding pretentious about all this, you'd probably want to know something about the provenance of the engine.

#458205 Mk4 57 Plate Titanium X 2.0 140

Posted by BOF on 24 February 2015 - 05:29 PM

If the engine revs increase without the speed of the wheels increasing (no nasty graunching noise from the gearbox, no squealing of tortured rubber from the tyres, and the speedo reading stays constant or only increases 'normally'), then there is a problem with the clutch.


If the clutch pedal is very high, it could be something to do with that.


Failing that, I am afraid that you are down to actual clutch problems. There is a possibility that oil/fluid is getting on to the clutch plates, but the more likely thing is that the clutch material has worn and the clutch needs replacing. I think I can safely describe this job as a bit of a pain, so the labour charge will be significant.


I don't know where the best place to go is, but Ford will be expensive.

#452155 How Do U Add Yours ? Diesel Additives ---

Posted by BOF on 06 February 2015 - 02:45 PM

...alternatively, I have a RedEx bottle with a small tapering exit hole (I'm trying to avoid saying anything rude, but it still sounds daft) and that is usable, provided that you dribble the stuff in. This isn't the standard for a RedEx bottle these days, but it is an old bottle which I refill as necessary.

#444512 Oil Service Measage?

Posted by BOF on 13 January 2015 - 09:50 PM

Perhaps it has come up because you are due for an oil service?


Depending on car, it can be activated on distance or time since it was last reset.

#436883 Battery Change On Mk4 2.2Tdci

Posted by BOF on 15 December 2014 - 11:25 AM

Sorry, that wasn't really clear enough; I know what I meant, but you wouldn't necessarily know that from reading what I wrote. The vaseline should be put on the terminals after they have been assembled and tightened up.


It isn't, however, a big problem if you do it first (or have some vaseline smeared around from the previous time that it has been done and don't clean it up perfectly) because the excess gets squeezed out and the vaseline just ends up in places where there would otherwise be an air gap. If it doesn't, then you haven't got the terminals tight enough...


You are right that vaseline doesn't conduct electricity, and that's unhelpful, and keeping the contact surfaces apart with vaseline would be bad.


The problem of contact corrosion seems to have become less evident over the years, though, presumably as batteries have become better at keeping any corrosive fumes internally and not venting them. I still do the vaseline thing, possibly as much out of habit as anything else, but you do know that terminals assembled dry are going to be ok, when assembled new, but it is a little less clear how they would be after 4 - 8 years, however long the battery naturally lasts.

#432582 Chinese Units

Posted by BOF on 28 November 2014 - 09:30 PM

Yes, but for me, that's not necessarily adequate. Ideally, I would want to be able to control the DAB radio from the head unit display, particularly if I've just paid to get a nice display.


Putting the DAB unit in, say, the glovebox or that region is adequate if the head unit can control it. If I need the add-on unit itself on display, its going to have to be neat, and not all are, and need no trailing wires all over the place, or what's the point (and, I've already got one that I don't use, because of the trailing wires and the additional box cluttering up the windscreen, already having a sat nav on the screen. Two boxes, two power cables a cigar lighter splitter and one on-screen antenna is very clearly too much for me.)



Here is, I think, the original e-bay/uk advert for the eonon unit, but it is now ~£320 and unavailable. I'm sure, when it was available it was more like half that price, or lower. No idea whether it will become available again, or at what price (some sellers put the price up when they don't have any). The G2110 is an Android unit at around £200.

#432463 Chinese Units

Posted by BOF on 28 November 2014 - 03:03 PM

I had never heard of 'Joyous' before, so, if nothing else, thanks for that.


They are attractive and tempting, but I haven't seen one with integrated DAB, yet. You might want to compare with this eonon unit, which is available from somewhere in the UK (ie, whoever it is quotes £ prices and sensible shipping, although I'm assuming they are an importer - probably was on e-bay), although that link seems to be the generic US advert.


The eonon mentions 'Win CE', which isn't an advantage (to me), but it is unclear if the full Head Unit runs that, or whether it is only to do with the GPS function, which is where they mention it. Neither seems to have any traffic functionality, although, maybe, if you buy, just as an example, TomTom software for an Android unit, you can make traffic work somehow, possibly. (I've got a good sat nav with traffic, but getting the clutter of cables out of the way would be nice, too. OTOH, being able to take the sat nav indoors to add POIs, play with settings and pre-set routes is good, too, so there are advantages either way. Getting the sat nav off the screen might be the one that sways it, though.)


In the other eonon ad that I saw, there was some mention of a DAB module, but it wasn't standard, as far as I could tell, and it wasn't clear how you got it or for how much or how it all fitted together.


But for me, I've decided that I won't spend anything other than trivial cash on anything that doesn't get me the DAB radio stations, so I keep looking and thinking 'maybe the follow-up model...'. (Probably DAB and pre-outs are my minimum requirements, and so far, DAB has been the difficult one to find.)


Close, though.

#432416 Discount Batteries For Black Friday

Posted by BOF on 28 November 2014 - 11:43 AM

In spite of your direction, I did have a brief look at Euro Car Parts, and couldn't see much difference in the battery prices - they always seem to have some offer or sale, but for things that you can get elsewhere, that still doesn't necessarily make them the cheapest.


Anyway, here are a few alternatives:








(where the link is to an individual battery, it might not be the battery for your car, but for whatever battery I was comparing at the time).


I've concentrated on suppliers of Varta/Bosch batteries, 'cos I know that they are good, but some of those guys supply quite cheap alternatives that ought to be ok, on a value for money basis, too.