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Member Since 02 Nov 2012
Online Last Active Today, 07:58 PM

#544094 Power Stutters

Posted by BOF on Yesterday, 10:57 AM

See if you can try to have a look around with the engine actually running, if it is a 'blow' it might be more obvious, and if it is a leak to somewhere hot, it may be evaporating off before you get there.


The fuel filter is a problem; you probably don't actually need to prime with a vacuum pump, but it will likely be a bit of a pain. Just more of a pain without the vacuum pump. What with the problem of securing it, that sounds like a job for someone else! As it may or may not be anything to do with the filter, you probably have to try to eliminate other things first.


I haven't really had identifiable troubles with supermarket fuel - plenty on here will tell you that they have, but, apart from low mpg on the Asda stuff, I can't say that I'm one of them, and, with a busy supermarket, I feel you are less likely to get water (/any rubbish from the bottom of their tank) in the fuel than with an isolated country station - but I'd still want to try Shell/BP/Esso for a short period, to see if that makes a difference.

#544047 Power Stutters

Posted by BOF on Yesterday, 12:08 AM

Thanks for the info , I been on a run and found that when I applied power below 3000rpm there seemed to be a delay or juddery pick up for a second , then all seemed fine it was more pronounced in 4th gear ..I tried running her hard at 3.5k rpm  and got the engine got nice and hot ..and definitely smelt of hot diesel. i have checked all the joints and fittings from the filter , fuel rail and injectors, and no evidence of leaks


It really could just be a leak. Sometimes you can't easily see them, and the mention of the smell of hot diesel makes it sound more likely.


Have you checked the seals to the injectors with the engine running, or just 'statically'? the rubber seals can also go a bit hard/perished, and they tend to leak a bit then.


Also, the air to and from the intercooler could leak.


Another possibility would be a partly blocked fuel filter, particularly if it hasn't been changed recently (how long, what fuel does it normally run on)?

#543222 Is It Possible To Fit A Thermostat The Wrong Way Round?

Posted by BOF on 24 November 2015 - 12:16 PM

If, in this weather, you tend to have the cabin heating turned up, what you describe is quite normal: the engine only makes a certain amount of excess heat, and you use most of that heating the cabin.


And, to your original question: Usually, no. Well, you can make almost anything fit with a hammer, but the usual arrangement is that the thermostat will not fit unless it is the right way around. And, even if you did fit it the wrong way around, it would probably work more-or-less normally unless you are giving it some stick, and then it might overheat. So, it doesn't seem likely as a cause, particularly as you seem to be saying that it hasn't been touched.

#542468 Stop/tail Light Fault

Posted by BOF on 22 November 2015 - 10:12 AM

...Can anyone help please. I've had the stop/taillight fault come up, all bulbs are sound. The lights work for a nano second when turned on initially but then go out! ...


Well, what that sounds like is a short (and it sounds like you are looking, primarily, for an open circuit).


When the light initially turns on, there is a 'short circuit detection' function, and if the module detects that something is shorted, it turns the output off to prevent damage (there ought to be a fault code associated with this, although whether that takes you further than just knowing there is a fault is another matter).


The most likely is a short to ground (there is a lot of ground around to short to, partic if the wiring insulation has worn through somewhere, or connections have been remade, and a single thread of copper wire has been left 'floating around'),  but a short to somewhere else, eg, battery, is also possible.


I'd look around the wiring and the connectors at the lighting unit end first (because they are easier), but it could also be at the module end. Using a DVM might also help you find the short, assuming that is really what is going on.


Edit: probably way closer to a millisecond than a nanosecond, but I assume that is closer to hyperbole than a measurement with a oscilloscope. Arguably.

#541654 Urgent Dpf Question. Please Help

Posted by BOF on 19 November 2015 - 02:46 PM

It all seems to fishy to me and I detect foul play on their part to create more work for themselves.



I doubt the 'foul play' but a lot of people are far less competent with Diesel engines, and not really so hot with any kind of electronics, so I suspect that they are just covering for the fact that they don't really know what they are doing. Possibly.


Can anyone advice on where the dpf sensor is?


I could tell you exactly on a pre-FL 2 litre, but on other variants there is no guarantee that it is in the same place (under passenger side, and you can just about see/reach in to it without raising the car up on stands or a jack).


It is easy enough to find, though. Find the DPF. There will be a small bore hose that goes to the input side and one that goes to the output side. The thing that both of those hoses go back to is the differential pressure sensor.


Now, warning one: don't accidentally swap the hoses, so if you pull one off, take notes, mark the pipes, take photos, whatever, just be sure which hose came from where.


Warning two: the hoses aren't really good enough for the temperatures near the DPF and go crumbly. Don't play with, unless prepared to replace! (Actually, hoses going is the most likely fault. Be prepared to swap. Silicone probably lasts longer than rubber, but new 'either' is better than 'leaky'.)


If it isn't the hoses, the next most probable thing is the wiring. Again, it is an exposed position and can get hot, plus there are showers of stones and general unpleasantness (wet, salty, unpleasantness, in extreme conditions) under there, so it is quite possible that corrosion or physical damage have occurred.


The DPF itself (as opposed to the transducer) has no intelligence whatsoever and can't get confused. The transducer itself can fail, but check the hoses (number one) and the wiring (number two) first, as they are both more probable and cheaper.

#533207 Got A Question About Tyres? Ask The Michelin Expert!

Posted by BOF on 20 October 2015 - 07:33 PM



           Thank you very much for agreeing to do this it is much appreciated.


My question really concerns tyres at low temperatures. Quite often you see a particular temperature (say, +7 C) as the temperature that 'Summer Tyres' go off, and that doesn't completely correspond with my experience. I feel that some Summer tyres go off a bit earlier than others, and that there is a range of temperatures over which they get worse. In particular, traction on cold and slightly greasy roads seems problematic for some tyres. 


Is this right, or is my impression just wrong and based on some Winters being colder than others (and so the tyres I've got fitted during the relatively mild winters seem better without really being better, when measured objectively)?


A 'sort-of' follow up is to ask about the tyres available in different countries; these days, some tyre suppliers are really international rather than national suppliers, is there any risk that they supply a different spec of rubber, more intended for their home country than this one? Or, these days, is the manufacture of tyres so internationalised that there aren't different spec tyres available, so suppliers can't get this wrong even if they source tyres in a different country?

#532553 Speaker Upgrade Help - Coaxial Upgrade Non Ford

Posted by BOF on 18 October 2015 - 11:27 AM

Factory fitted is usually pretty rubbish (the Ford Sony system is a pleasant exception), and speakers are often the weakest link, so upgrading the speakers often makes a certain amount of sense. That said


  • If you want more bass (you don't particularly mention that, but people often do), ideally you would want  bigger speakers (more cone area) and/or a bigger volume of air behind them. Either of those could be difficult. (There probably would be some difference in the bass output changing one brand of speaker for another, but probably not 'night and day')
  • Factory fit speakers are often poor in frequency response, but efficient (and cheap). Replacing with something else usually gets you a flatter frequency response (yay!), but you need to turn the volume up a bit to get back the old sound levels. That's fine, if you can turn the volume up, but if you are already at or close to the max of the headunit...well, that's less desirable.
  • Fitting bigger speakers (say, 6x9 ellipticals replacing 6" circulars, or something) has a place, but can be difficult in a factory fit system, without ripping everything out and starting again. You may (...or may not...) be able to fit bigger speakers in to the door cards, but that would take a bit of re-engineering (and model-specific knowledge), but adding, say, and extra pair of speakers in the parcel shelf area would take a bit more doing (probably need an extra amp to drive them), but would have more potential.
  • Some speaker manufacturers have 'model specific' speaker upgrades (eg, Pioneer, Alpine, etc, etc); this is probably the kind of mild upgrade that you would like, but you are very much at the mercy of the installer/supplier to recommend something to you; if you go to a 'bad' supplier, they probably won't deal with whoever has stuff for your car and just tell you that you can't get anything for that vehicle.

#528988 Front Discs And Pads

Posted by BOF on 04 October 2015 - 11:02 PM

Pagid are also an Original Equipment manufacturer for Porsche, including the Carrera Cup racing cars. That wouldn't be happening if they were all inferior Chinese rubbish.


Eicher, now that is another matter...

#521733 Mkiv Battery Charging

Posted by BOF on 12 September 2015 - 09:04 AM


My Mk IV Mondeo (2L Diesel 2007) has a completely flat battery - no idea why it has drained, but it seemed to happen over the course of a couple of days. 


Unfortunately that does happen. There are some 'conspiracy theories' but probably the best thing to say is that, electrically. the Mondeo is a fairly complex car (as are most these days) and there can be a number of causes.


One thing to keep in mind is that, if that is an original battery, it could be quite down on capacity by now. Or, to put it another way, with the winter coming, it might not have great prospects of surviving through the winter period.


On connection the sidelights started to pulse, so I turned them off. The hazards also began to pulsed and a relay could be heard clicking on and off. I operated the hazard light button, but could not get them to stop pulsing. So I left if for about 20 seconds and the hazards continued to pulse and the relay continued to click. So I gave up trying to charge it.


I can only think that the battery voltage has become so low that various modules are not working correctly, even with the charger connected. How about disconnecting one terminal of the battery, and putting the battery on charge that way, for a long period, and see if the battery recovers?

#496238 Odd Gear Change Problem

Posted by BOF on 17 June 2015 - 06:59 PM

Hmm. When I were a lad, we was learnt to go down the gears one at a time, so you have to say that is a possibility, even if it is not what you want to do.


Presumably, the change gets more co-operative if you double de-clutch?


OTOH, it is possible that the synchro is worn and not as powerful as it would be on a new car (all this missing out gears!), but as you'd have to disassemble the gearbox to do anything about that, you might choose to ignore that possibility.


Another possibility, particularly if the gear change is worse when the oil is cold, is that the oil needs changing. How many miles has the car done?

#490541 Error P0096 Air Intake Temperature Sensor ??

Posted by BOF on 28 May 2015 - 07:18 PM

Often the problem is the wiring and not the sensor itself. Have a look for loose connectors, and shorts to ground, that sort of thing.

#478298 Focus Audio Upgrade Help Needed

Posted by BOF on 20 April 2015 - 08:40 PM

It isn't that it all the same so much as I've never really done back-to-back testing on wire. There are differences, in some cases it may be subtle, but there are real differences.


In general, though, for the high current leads (from the amps to the speaker drive units, the power to an amp or the sub), more copper is better. But, it is all a bit 'what works, works and what doesn't work, doesn't work'.

#478213 Focus Audio Upgrade Help Needed

Posted by BOF on 20 April 2015 - 05:12 PM

Was looking at getting this amp to power the speakers

Does it matter if it is more powerful than my speakers as long as I don't blast the volume?


Well, usually, either the amp is more powerful than the speakers or the speakers are powerful than the amp (although the numbers tend to be quite unreliable, and subject to 'marketing', so you might not even know which is which).


If the speakers are more powerful and you drive the amplifier too hard (in to clipping), the speakers are still at risk. If the amplifier is more powerful, you can drive the speakers too hard, and the speakers are at risk.


So, really, to be safe, you've got to avoid turning the wick up too far, irrespective.


Does it matter what gauge wire I use?

From the amplifier to the drive units, yes, to the under-seat thingy, no (unless you wire to the drive units via the under seat).


Power to the under seat also matters. Obviously, all wires have a current rating, and the fuse should always go first, so the wire has to be higher-rated than the fuse But, broadly, bigger gauge wire is better there.

#463184 Engine Rebuild Required [Advice Request]

Posted by BOF on 09 March 2015 - 05:17 PM

I would be looking for a replacement rather than a rebuild, as its probably a darned site easier to find a breaker.


There are some sites that will let you send a query to several sites at once; 'breakerlink' is one name that I remember, but I can't really make a recommendation, not really having used them for anything oily, or difficult to deliver. Anyway, the competition aspect seems to work in your favour, in this case.


Mate of mine just bought a full car for £104...


Not sure that could eat a whole one...but that's cheaper than a couple of drop links, for example... 


Either way though, you have been unlucky. I would be tracing back over my steps, see if there is any sign of oil where I previously was. If you see patches of oil, you can contest that you let it run dry because of a failure which resulted in the sudden loss of all oil. Which would certainly be covered by your warranty.


Essentially, if the oil came out pretty suddenly, it doesn't matter if you were checking the oil weekly or monthly, it would have still gone in between oil checks (unless someone thinks that the oil is suddenly vomited out while it is sitting still on your drive, just while you are checking it, and while it is switched off - that seems incredibly implausible, but it is what they have to be suggesting, if periodic oil checks are going to catch it, just as it happens; otherwise you'd be driving it when it happened, and then you've got the same situation as you have now). Its better if you can say 'look, there is the hole it came out of', but if it is clear that it was sudden you should be off the hook.


I'll also go back to the oil warning light; I'm still surprised that you didn't see that come on. If, for example, what has happened is that the oil pressure light has been disabled (eg, because it had a habit of coming on, and the person who sold it to the garage didn't want that to show, and it had been that way when the car was sold), you should also be off the hook, because they sold the car with the 'safety feature' that made this unlikely disabled.


(The 'oil light' is a low oil pressure warning, and you would expect the oil pressure to go low before everything failed. In fact, in the short term, you could argue that, if the oil pressure doesn't go low, the engine should keep on running, although that might be a bit difficult if the car is being thrashed. But the likeliest is that the oil pressure light flickers before it gets irretrievably bad, as the oil level goes low, and the pump has difficulty picking up oil.)

#462961 Engine Problems Mk Mondeo

Posted by BOF on 09 March 2015 - 09:25 AM

I am more thinking having spent 6k on a car that a month and a half after purchase suffers a critical engine failure. How strong is my legal position in seeking a refund. This car seems to be a lemon and no longer have any faith in it....or the dealer who inspected the white smoke and wooing noise twice before and admitted the other day they have not checked the egr valve yet


I have to say that I am most worried by the fact that the dealer has either

  • been unlucky
  • is useless

from this distance, you can't tell which, but, if they are useless and they are about to replace the engine, that gives me cause for concern.


The car itself seems to have been, effectively, unmaintained for a significant time, and while that's also a worry, the thing that I'd be most worried about (engine/gearbox/dmf/injectors) is about to be replaced.


One thing that you may want to think about, is that what you thought that you had bought was a low mileage car (although, I always say that I am not worried about higher mileage, provided the car has been serviced regularly and cared for; so, my personal opinion is that low mileage is often over-valued).


What presumably you wouldn't want, though, is a low mileage car with a high mileage engine... so, at the risk of sounding pretentious about all this, you'd probably want to know something about the provenance of the engine.