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#401490 Mk2 2.0 Zetec Engine Woes?

Posted by BOF on 25 August 2014 - 01:56 PM

I'd have to say that I've probably run out of usefulness on this.


I'm not sure how the oil feed is arranged on this engine, but, if you could lift that cam bearing and see it, there might be some chance of cleaning it out without completely lifting the cam. It is, however, more likely that you do have to lift the cam in order to get at it, because it is hidden below the split line.


(If you can still get them, a pipe cleaner might be something that you can feed along the oil way, assuming that there is a soft blockage somewhere near the point to which you have access. That may or may not help. What I was expecting was a cylinder head liberally coated in a black, thick, greasy substance. Given that there isn't much thick, black, greasy to be seen, maybe there is a completely different explanation.)


In which case, you do have to lift the cam, at least a little. Maybe there is a possibility of lifting all of the cam bearing upper halves and having enough play to get at the oil feed or the followers without completely losing cam synchronisation (which would make the putting back together easier), but I don't know, I've never taken one of these to pieces. On the other hand, the level of care needed to keep the cam in its position with the drive teeth may just be more trouble than it is worth. But, ensuring that you have the cam timed correctly is a bit of a pain (a fiddle, rather than excessively difficult, and the kind of thing that you worry about having done correctly), so if there is a way around that it might be a short cut. Maybe you can make little alignment marks that you can work to during re-assembly (re-assembly is the reverse of disassembly, as the Haynes manuals always, so irritatingly, say).

#401262 Mk2 2.0 Zetec Engine Woes?

Posted by BOF on 24 August 2014 - 05:43 PM

OK, at least we are somewhat clear what we are dealing with now. There are still two possibilities though:


What you describe is classic 'tappet collapse' (it could have been 'pump up', but this is the opposite). normally you'd expect that the hydraulic lifters had worn, and oil was just passing through them so fast that they would just 'deflate' as soon as they came under pressure. The alternative -usually, less likely- explanation is that one of the oilways has got clogged, and there is no oil supply to the tappets.


Now, as these are two tappets together, there is a distinct possibility that there is one oilway that feeds the two tappets and if that is clogged, then that is one explanation for the two problems, and that might be more likely than two completely separate problems. OTOH, if there is no oil feed to the two tappets, maybe that causes the two tappets to fail, and there is still one root cause.


Did it look as if oil was seeping around the tappets (ie, there was an oil supply behind the tappets)? 

#400518 Mk2 2.0 Zetec Engine Woes?

Posted by BOF on 22 August 2014 - 08:13 AM

Well, it does now sound like grit in one of the hydraulic lifters, presuming that the work on the coil pack leads and plugs has eliminated the possibility of a problem there.


When was the last oil change, what oil was used and did it change at all then? In any case, nice clean new oil is worth trying, but if oil and maybe oil additives doesn't work, it will probably be 'off with its head'.

#400237 Buying Advice For 09/10 Mondeo

Posted by BOF on 21 August 2014 - 12:34 PM

There are certainly expensive things that can go wrong with Diesels (DMF, DPF, Injectors) that aren't such a problem on the petrols. This is balanced against the higher expense at the pumps of the petrols, so it is a close choice... In some ways, an LPG converted petrol would be the best choice, but some of the people who do the conversions don't always produce a reliable conversion, and who knows why the seller is selling.


Beyond 80 k miles, I'd want to see that the DMF has been done, or want it cheaply, so I could get it done. The cambelt isn't due 'till 125k, so that probably can be ignored, for now, unless you also look at higher mileage examples.


At 2010, you are probably not quite new enough to find ecoboosts around, and they can be expensive.


Personally, I'd avoid an 'Edge', because I'd pay the money and get the kit (Zetec, or higher), but, if this is a second car, you might not care that much, I don't know.


There was a facelift (Mk 4.5) probably late 2010, and that must have been a success, because the prices on facelifts are higher - all things being equal, I'd prefer a facelift, but, so far, late non-facelifts seem to be easier to find and cheaper.


The first thing I'd do would be look around at what is available on-line (autotrader, and others) to see what is available for what money. That's the first thing that you want to do so, when you go to see a car, you will know whether it is decent value.

#399602 2.0 Tdci "surging" At Light Throttle

Posted by BOF on 19 August 2014 - 05:30 PM


Could this be a problem with an injector? At 140k miles, is this to be expected?


Possible. can you get an injector leak off test done?


Halfords who did the fuel service did a "before & after" emissions check but didn't give me the printouts as they usually do. Is this likely to be relevant?


Possibly. If one, or more, injector(s) are leaking a little fuel when they shouldn't be, it will affect idle and low accelerator running most. Assuming an emissions test at idle, that might show something. The idle might sound uneven (not a constant speed).


In contrast, running at higher speeds/loads is probably less likely to be affected, so motorway running might be fine.


On the other hand, there are probably other things that it could be, such as partially blocked egr and leaks around the turbo.

#397872 Advice?

Posted by BOF on 15 August 2014 - 03:53 PM

By the way how important is the 'box'.. Only £120 odd for a wooden carpet covered box seems steep. My dads got lots of wood tools and I'm sure he could knock up a box easy enough (or I could).



Depends. If the sub is a bass reflex (roughly, has a port) then matching the sub to the box is important, and that makes building the box sufficiently accurately a little more critical. For a sealed box, things are easier in the sense that if the dimensions are a little approximate, it doesn't matter that much (it changes how deep the bass goes and some other parameters slightly, but not dramatically). On the other hand, needing to be sealed is a difficulty, because approximate construction probably won't lead to good sealing and maybe the panels will flap around a bit, and that won't help the sound. (And, any filling you apply in the box will change the effective size slightly, and that would be a problem for a box that has to be built accurately to a size because it has to be built accurately to a size that isn't the size that it is. Which is a complication.)


In any case, it depends on what exactly you want and how critical you are. If you'll be happy provided that you get a bit more of a rumbling noise at low frequencies, then that's relatively easy. If you are bothered about how loud it goes, the exact matching between the sub and the existing speakers how well it matches with the room response of the car and whether the impulse response is still clean, you are making things more difficult, and if you are bothered about all of the above, then things have got really difficult, and you probably won't satisfy all of the above simultaneously with your skinflint ambitions, however hard you try.


Also, I don't understand how the 'Watt' thing works if you go for a separate sub and amp.. 


Watts is volts times amps. You need enough. All else being equal, which it rarely is, more is louder. If you turn it up too far, you can destroy the speaker through over-extension. If the amp won't deliver enough and you turn it up too far, it can still destroy the speaker, but without the over-extension.


Also *tightwad alert* is there cheap subs, cheap amps, etc that I could use? 


Probably. Amazon tends to be a good place to look. The bay of fleas, I don't tend to trust, but if someone recommends someone trustworthy, that might work.


Matching the drive unit to the box is an issue, so if you get the box and drive unit together, that ought to (note: ought) be a help. Otherwise, you should be looking at the Thiel-Small parameters, in the first instance, and I don't think that you want to do that.

#392675 Warning / Hero Points

Posted by BOF on 01 August 2014 - 11:42 AM

You might look at the 'NSFW' issue this way: Imagine you had a car with a serious problem, and I had the answer to that problem. Which would you rather:

  • I don't look at the site in my lunchtime, because there is a danger that something Not Suitable for Work comes up, with no notice, because it is that type of site.
  • I do look at the site and presumably offer you a worthwhile answer, all within my lunchtime.

I know that it can be a pain at times, and sometimes different people draw the line in different places, but it is for the best if the site remains free of questionable content.

#390544 Air Conditioning

Posted by BOF on 27 July 2014 - 07:59 AM

A (small) puddle is normal, a big one isn't. However, I'd say that was most likely down to (relatively) high temps and quite high levels of humidity, recently.


As the Captain points out, the job that you are asking the air con to do is to dry out and cool the air, and the more humid that air is, the more water comes out. It has to go somewhere, and on the ground is surely a better place for it than in the car.

#389253 Alternator Loom

Posted by BOF on 23 July 2014 - 07:43 PM

Ugh, why does everybody seem to be having alternator/battery problems, these days?


First, you seem to say that you have replaced the battery (is that right?), what type of battery do you have? Does it say 'silver' or 'silver calcium' on it? If not, you've got the 'wrong' battery, but in a way, you've lucked out.


That is, the older batteries are not intended for the 'smart charge' system that is on modern fords, but you can turn your smart charge system into a non-smart system by leaving off the additional connector. the alternator then defaults back to 'dumb' and 'dumb' is exactly what an old battery expects.


For 'dumb' you need three connections; an earth, a high current charging wire and a line from the dash light to the alternator field connector.


The earth connection may or may not be a wire; quite often the alternator picks up eath via the engine block and that picks up earth via a big wire (also has to take the starter current, so it will be a really thick wire) back to the car bodywork, probably in the close vicinity of the battery, so there may not be a wire connecting the earth to the alternator. If there isn't a wire, it is quite possible that due to a bad connection from the alternator to the engine or the engine to the car body, there is a voltage drop and that voltage drop would reduce the charging of the battery, which would not be a good thing.


Out of the two other wires in the 'basic' system one ought to be thicker than the other; often there are two spade connectors and the bigger spade connector is for the heavier wire. This is the line that takes the higher current back to the battery; given that, over time, this current has to balance the current taken, this can be quite a high current. In this simple system, this wire is also used for the alternator to sense the battery voltage, and if the battery voltage really climbs up, as sensed on this lead, the charge current reduces.


You have to have the charge lead and the earth connection, or you wouldn't be getting any charging, but you could have a high resistance in one of these leads, and that might reduce the charging quite a lot, but you'd still get some charging and you might be able to survive that, although it would give the battery an unnecessarily hard time.


The system with the lamp actually does two things with one connection: when the alternator isn't working (engine at 0 rpm, for example), nothing is coming out of the alternator, and the lamp comes on, warning you if the alternator is not working. The second action is slightly more subtle;  before the alternator starts, there is no energy for the field winding, and so the alternator doesn't start (...this isn't quite true, but it doesn't start when it should...) and because the alternator doesn't start, there is no energy for the field winding.


Now, the current through the lamp does provide the energy for the alternator field to start up, so that cures one problem, and the fact that the alternator starts up raises the voltage on this pin so that the light goes out. 


Now, if you have the smart system (which you really should have, for one of the higher-spec Silver/Calcium batteries), you will have those connections, plus some extra.


The first is a simple comms line (at least on a Mk IV); this is used so that the a module in the car can turn up the voltage (slightly) so that battery charge can be replenished more rapidly after a high load, and charging can be increased in foot-off deceleration.


The next connection that you should have is an extra battery connection; this allows an accurate reading of the battery voltage, not corrupted by the IR voltage drop in the high current connection. It ought to be easy to spot this because it has the battery voltage on it (and the system ought to work, albeit less accurately, without this connection).


There may also be a secondary earth connection back to the battery, probably a green- or a black-coloured wire. It should be easy enough to check with an ohmmeter that one of the connections goes back there


This should only leave the 'adjust' wire, and that'll be the other one!

#385443 Law On Driving With A Headlight Out?

Posted by BOF on 13 July 2014 - 06:43 AM

1. What is the law on driving with it out? I've been pulled a few time in the past and just got told to get it fixed but if I get pulled again it could be a fine¿

Note that it is illegal to drive with a headlight out, even in daylight. You might ask 'how would they notice?', but it is still illegal.


2. It keeps happening!! The drivers side dipped is constantly blowing every 1-2 months what could be causing this?

I used to have this on a Cougar. The garage said 'nothing wrong...you are just being unlucky...bulbs do wear out after a time, and sometime you get several reaching their end of life together, etc, etc'.


This was, of course, nonsense as I was losing a bulb every six to eight weeks, always at the front of the car. That's not normal.


What you could also see was that the voltage was not very stable at idle - if it was dark, you could see that the dash illumination (eg, radio display, speedo, etc) and the lights would go up and down a little with the bass in the music. there was an alternator wiring problem with the cougar , generally, and Ford had an additional harness (probably a wire, but it sounds as if it costs more if you call it a harness) that could be retrofitted to cure the problem.


With that fitted, it went down to blowing a bulb every couple of years, rather than couple of months. Ford garage never admitted that there was a fault that they should have done something about.


Anyway, if there is any sign that the voltage is 'wobbling about', even at low engine rpm, then there probably is a problem with the wiring, and things like the alternator earth and battery earth are suspect. In that case, it is probably as easy as adding another, thicker gauge, piece of wire, but it might be a bit difficult working out where, exactly.


In the interim, you could get yourself a supply of cheap bulbs (not very nice, but...) and try to avoid switching on the lights before you have got the car started.


Also note that 'smart charge' does put the charging voltage up a bit, and you probably want to check that your battery can cope (a suitably specified silver calcium one, rather than an 'any old rubbish' battery) and that the terminals there are in good shape.

#374106 Mondeo 2,0 Tdci

Posted by BOF on 13 June 2014 - 07:01 AM

Another option would be to go along to your local Ford Stealership Dealership. They will probably want some proof of ownership, given that the whole point of the radio code is to stop people stealing things and making a profit from it on the secondhand market. What counts as sufficient proof may depend on where you are, and, if you are well known to them from a previous vehicle might be essentially your word, I don't know.


In any case, the web approach is likely to be cheaper and more convenient, unless you've got to go to Ford for something else, anyway (which is quite common with a 'new to you' car).


Make sure that, when you get it, you note it down somewhere pretty safe, as the likelihood is you'll need it again.

#364506 "diesel Knock"

Posted by BOF on 15 May 2014 - 07:55 AM

The knock and spluttering is likeley to be the EGR valve opening - when it opens burn't exhaust fumes are injected into the inlet, that also contaminate the inlet manifold with carbon,


That seems to be a very plausible suggestion. It seems likely that once the temperature is up enough for the EGR valve to be open, you've got the problem, and when it isn't open you don't have the problem.


Now quite sure why EGR, seemingly, causes this problem on your car, and doesn't on other cars...


I'd want to check, or have checked, that there aren't any leaks in the various bits of tubing that take the gasses to the inlet. The EGR valve itself may not be clean, but I'm struggling a bit to work out how that would cause this problem (in that people do block the valves and have the car run better, so I'm not quite getting why a partly blocked one would be worse... BTW, I'm not sure if blocking the EGR on a 1.8 Mk IV causes 'dashboard blinkenlights' eventually; it does on a 2.0, but the 1.8 is different). 


But that's not your problem, it is the problem of the seller (ie, they've got to give you a car that works; the danger is that if you in any way 'mod' the car before they get it to work, they'll just blame everything, from tyre wear to the pollen count on what you've done).

#361981 "diesel Knock"

Posted by BOF on 08 May 2014 - 06:39 PM

...but everytime after travelling approx 1/2 mile from cold start, the engine starts to splutter slightly and knock as if the automatic choke stays on whilst revving you can hardly notice it but when staying at same speed, for example 20 mph in second or 30 mph in 3rd gear, as when in traffic it is very much more noticable. 


So, it happens on every cold start, irrespective of whether it is after a pretty cold night, or a warmer morning?


By 'while revving' presumably you mean 'while accelerating' rather than 'at high revs'?


I have taken car back to dealer, they checked it over and said it is "diesel knock" which is acceptable because of age, mileage and general wear and tear and because the onboard computer is not recognising a fault they can't actually fix it.


Oh, that really is an unacceptable attitude. Did they actually tell you, when they were selling it to you 'don't expect it to work, it is a crap car and it is worn out' - of course they didn't!


And this bit about the on-board computer; yes, many things show up as error codes, but not everything. What they are really saying is 'we are not competent to do anything beyond the obvious (and it is your problem that we are not competent)'.


This is just wrong.


Car is on '59' plate 42,000 miles.


You'll find that there are people with 150 - 250 k miles on their clocks here, so their argument that the car has done too many miles - at 42k - to work is laughable. 


...warranting my fuel injectors for 12 month, because I had test done on injectors which cost £200...


That's just weird; you've got a problem, you've paid for some work to be done on something that didn't turn out to be the problem, and they've responded by giving you a warranty on the thing that wasn't the problem.


Presumably, you took the car to some independent garage (or maybe Ford?) and it was their advice to get the injectors tested? Or, did you suggest to them to test the injectors? Was there any discussion of the other problems that it could be?



the mondeo tdci 1.8 titanium x uses the transit connect engine,


There is engine sharing all across the Ford range. You could easily say that the Transit Connect uses the Mondeo engine and it would be equally correct - probably more so if the Mondeo got the engine first, which it probably did. 


Any argument that 'this engine is noisy because it is used in the Transit Connect', which is what they seem to be saying, is quite interesting because

  • the noisiness, or otherwise, is quite dependant on the installation and the sound insulation and deadening thereof, so the argument is flawed
  • you are not complaining about engine noise, so the argument is not relevant to the point at issue, that of the fault which exists with the car
  • if you can get them to put it in writing you'll have a good case in court, because of the above two points - this alone isn't enough to win the case, but it will make them look very stupid, which always helps

put the engine through diagnostics and nothing flags up, "they can't fix it if it's not broke scenario"


Nonsense; it is broke, just it is broke without a diagnostic fault code. They can't (or maybe won't) fix it because they are useless and won't try. Or, possibly, they know that it will cost them money, and they are not happy about that prospect.


I've mentioned a court case - it is probably undesirable to actually go to court, but it helps to be prepared. A conversation with trading standards to find out where they think you stand and maybe a stiff solicitor's letter could well be in order as could be mention of rejecting the car, after finding out what chance you have of getting the money back that you have spent.


As to the real fault (which is probably irrelevant, because dealing with the legal and organisational aspects is probably what counts), the stuff that comes under the heading 'the usual suspects' for a diesel, for example:

  • fuel filter
  • fuel pump
  • injectors (should be able to eliminate those, after the testing that has already been done)
  • egr
  • early stage of DMF failure

are all open to question, but I think I'd have to add:

  • ECU cal
  • temperature sensor

and I'd have to ask about the service history (oil change and when the fuel filter was last changed and was a quality part used). I think you could also ask whether it is any better on 'Premium' fuel (Shell Vpower/BP Ultimate), although it clearly a car that only runs cleanly on premium fuel would be unacceptable.

#342982 Mondeo Brakes

Posted by BOF on 15 March 2014 - 12:37 AM

Hi there, I have a bit of a problem with the brakes on my 2.5T titanium X.


I did a fast run on the way home the other night, 6 miles, 10 corners. By the time I was home, the brake pedal was hard and they had virtually stopped working. When I got out of the car they were stinking.




When you say that the 'brake pedal was hard', you do mean that you felt resistance in the normal position in the brake pedal travel, but the feeling was 'wooden' and it didn't cause much braking? If the pedal had sunk down, it would be a totally different diagnosis.


Firstly, you can fade the brakes on any production car if you try hard enough...However, if you can't do at least one stop from Vmax safely without the brakes going away, the car isn't safe to drive to that speed.


Given that there are two broad categories of fade (fluid 'boiling' and the various brake pad problems - here, probably overheating), if we can eliminate 'fluid', then we've got pads and temperature.


(You'll probably still have to change the fluid, for one of two reasons

  • this process has abused the fluid enough so that you can't trust it
  • you can't trust that the fluid was in decent condition, after its previous life, possibly at the hands of someone who thought saving money on brakes was smart and who possibly either fitted sub-standard fluid or left it too long between changes

It doesn't sound as if fluid was your immediate problem though, depending on the interpretation of the pedal symptom.)


Brake pads and materials are a compromise - there is not a magic 'just fit this, and all problems go away' solution. That said, it does sound as if you can find something more suited to your requirements.


It was both front wheels that were hot.


Sticking brakes are more common at the back than the front, so assuming that we can eliminate that (...ideally, you do some more testing...) then the temperature isn't being raised by sticking, then it should be possible to get an improvement by changing pads. Enough? Get the improvement without introducing other problems? These are good questions, and, ultimately, you won't know until you've tried. Bigger brake disks would also help get rid of the heat, but it is unclear whether you need to go that far.


(BTW, you say that it was the front wheels that were hot. Does that mean that the rears weren't hot at all, or were they just substantially less hot than the fronts? If the rears are doing no work in stopping the car, that will put all of the effort on the fronts and will make the problem worse.)


(Also, I need to make a comparison with tyres here - there is no point in saying buy this brand of pads; most pad manufacturers make several ranges, and buying the 'bog standard' pads from someone who also makes performance pads probably won't help, just as buying tyres by brand doesn't help.)


So, for example, EBC, who you mention, make a 'comparable with OEM quality' pad - I'm pretty sure this is a negligible improvement over the atandard OEM pad. You would need, for example, to be in with the yellowstuff and redstuff 'performance' pads before you get a worthwhile improvement over OEM. Redstuff may even need a little warming before it really bites, so this is where the compromise comes in - are you prepared to suffer that in order to get a pad that keeps working to higher temperatures?


Note also that the bigger wheels on a TitX should allow a slightly bigger disk...but be careful, if you would ever intend ton go down in wheel size, eg, to fit winter tyres.


One thing that is worth looking out for is whether you can see any manufacturers ident on the back of the pad (Ford, Ate, etc). If you can see that, and it is one of the respectable makes, it probably isn't 'cheapskate fitted inadequate pads'. If you can't see any ident, then it might just be inadequate pads, and, in that case, going to OEM quality might be a step forward (although, you might still want a bigger step than that).


My feeling (ie, guess) is that you will end up with a slightly bigger wheel size and slightly better pads, but i don't know how to be sure whether, eg, just slightly improved pads will do the job.



I should have commented on the possibility that you have glazed your pads - however, as the cure for this is often suggested as giving the pads a serious work-out, I originally felt that this removes the glazed pad possibility. This is wrong; you could have glazed the pads so badly that even a work out such as above has not been able to get the pads back to normal operation. 

#316858 What Tyres For My Focus?

Posted by BOF on 01 January 2014 - 09:18 PM

I have uniroyal rainsport 2 225/40 /zr18s @£79 each plus £2.99 per tyre delivery next day


RS2s aren't as good as RS3s, but that's a very good price. A really good price.



I recommend to try thi site, as I believe they're cheaper than blackcircles,
www.camskill.com tyres


There is no one tyre site that is always the cheapest; you need to look at several, because one might be cheapest for, say, Hankooks and another for Michelins. That said, on average, Camskills is often one of the cheaper ones.




I ended up going through Tyreshopper for the best price.



I've also used Tyreshopper, and found them good. Price included fitting at National Tyres (and way cheaper than buying the exact same tyres bought through National Tyres).


As predicted, National tyres, who can't have been getting much dosh out of the deal, attempted to sell me something else, rear brake pads. As unexpected, it turns out that I actually needed rear brake pads.