Phili Smith

Hey Guys, 

 

New Ford owner here, two weeks about.

 

I have something that sounds very similar here, I got some tyres changed and while it was up in the air asks the mechanics to check the exhaust, as it sounds like that was knocking against some body work or similar. Exhaust was fine. Couldnt see anything obvious here either.

 

Im starting to think it has something to do with the Suspension, springs, shock somewhere around the right rear.

 

Did you get to the bottom of this one at all, and if so, how much did it set you back?

 

Im not sure a spring/shock is something i could repair myself?!

 

Chester

You would need coil spring compression tools to do the job yourself as the spring mounts roung shock absorber, they cost around £25 each (and you realy should replace them as a pair) but the job is not that big and should be done in around an hour (with the right tools) I would expect quite a bit of change from £100

Phil

Well I got the car back the other day.
The garage had to change the instrument cluster( is this the correct English name for all the instruments as speedo, rev counter and what is behind the instrument glass) to get the car working.
Not the cheapest of repairs but now the car seems to work fine again.

I can't see how the insrument cluster caused your problem, my car starts and runs without the cluster even in! I took it out to replace bulbs, discovered I did not have correct spares so drove to the parts shop to get them before refitting I know I didn't have a speedo officer but I thought less than a mile I would be ok

The only way I could see a problem coming from the cluster is if you had a short, but if that is what garage claim I guess it could be true.

Glad to hear you are back on the road

Phil

My heater has only worked on 3+4 since I got it, fitted new resistor and it worked on all settings but that blew in a few minutes, checked fan and its running free. Tried putting a new thermal fuse on my old resistor and still only working on 3+4

Ok then you do have a slightly different problem. First replace pollen filter and replace the heater blower resistor unit (it is possible for the individual resistors to go down) but hold off for a week or two I might be able to get you a resistor unit for the cost of postage (no promises but I will try, a friend of mine regularly breaks them) but please replace pollen filter, they only cost a few quid (mine was £4.00 from a regular motorparts shop) it will save you masses of problems in the future.

Phil

^{Tried changing thermal fuse on mine with no joy !}

Does your blower motor work on 4? if not you have a different problem

Have you tested fuse since replacing to make sure it has not blown again?

Have you checked your pollen filter?

Have you got wet carpets in the footwell?

Reasons behind above questions:-

If blower does not work on 4 then the motor is not working (check/replace fuse try blowers again and recheck fuse) if it has blown then you have a problem with motor it is worth taking it out and spinning it manually, that fixed mine (after a little lubrication)

If the thermal fuse blew again immediately I suggest that you may have either a problem with your motor (see above) the pollen filter is blocked or the seal on the bottom of your windscreem has gone allowing water in through the heating ducts/pollen filter housing (this explains wet carpets) and allows water into fan unit, removal spin up and a good dose of WD40 might even fix that for you. The thermal fuse will get damned hot and blow if the resistance in the motor is too high. sorry to be the bearer of bad news but the seal thing can be the worst meaning you HAVE to replace the motor but the good news is 95% of time you can still get away without buying a new heater blower resistor, simply do the maplins fix again.

Phil

great glad the cheap fix worked if you had a small 10/15 amp block conector and took the plastic installation off the cut in two all you do is sit it on top of where you took the old resistor off and bend the ends off the new one to sit in and srew together like you would two wires ie one in either end.

I got a bit more involved than that and crimped the new fuse in place (after blowing first one ) but as you say same idea (I'd just run out of small terminal block (and I was not going to pay maplins price for that!)

Phil