I've never tried to wheel spin deliberately, or do a really fast start from a standstill (scared I'll hurt the car lol). But the ST really likes to spin the wheels even when I don't intend to, if the road isn't very grippy or has been smoothed out. Sometimes it just happens when I try to pull away quickly from a junction, and the traction control doesn't really do anything to stop it. Maybe it would if I was silly and tried to do a burnout.
Puma speed have pushed them SAFELY to 215 BHP out of the 1.0 125 engine, but that's with,
Quick spool manifold
Full miltek system
And a Remap
It depends what you mean by "safely". I heard that Ford didn't thing it was safe to have the MR230 kit on the ST because of the extra torque through the gearbox, which is why it's not warranty friendly. I don't know how much torque that Puma kit produces but I'm guessing a lot more than the gearbox was designed to handle.
It was the same for me, but I bought 3 years of gap cover separately. I should have done it sooner though because I think you only have about 3 months from the day you take delivery to get the best kind of cover (replacement or something like that). I think at the time all I could get was "back to invoice".
There is an "anti-stall" feature which was first introduced on the MK7, but I'm not sure if that's the correct name for it. As I understand it, the anti-stall kicks in when you're slowing down with the car in gear, and I think it disengages the clutch or something like that before the revs drop too low.
It would be good if someone can explain how it works because I've also been a bit confused by it. You'll notice the revs drop to idle when this happens, but I normally put the clutch in before that. Am I right in thinking the anti-stall doesn't do anything when you're accelerating, and will the engine still stall if you don't put in the clutch when you stop?
Go and speak to a Ford dealer. Tell them how much you have and they will do their best to get you into a car.
And they'll also do their best to extract as much money from you as possible for that car. I'd say search for some good deals on sites like CarWow and DriveTheDeal first, then you can go to your local dealers and see if they can compete with those quotes.
Have you test driven both cars? Make sure you do that before talking money with the dealer. You might not like the hard ride of the ST, or the ZS might seem too slow in comparison, so you might be able to decide which one you want just from a test drive.
I had the same sized tyres on my MK6 and I remember them looking a bit flat too. But as long as the pressure is correct it's fine. Think of it this way, if the tyre looks like it's squashed, that means there's a lot of rubber in contact with the road which means you have lots of grip. The more you inflate the tyre the less rubber is in contact with the road, and that could really make a difference in an emergency.
It reminds me when a couple years ago I wanted to fit winter tyres for my Yaris SR so I asked insurance company if it would affect my premium.
Their response was that it will hike the price from 300 to almost 1500!
And their reason for it? Apparently they classed Yaris SR as a "sports vehicle" (really?!) so should I fit winter tyres its a sign I am going to race it on ice!
Lol that's just silly, I'd like to see them trying to keep a straight face when telling you that. We need insurance companies to work more like energy companies in that you can switch to another company at a moment's notice if you're not happy. And they could count no claims bonus in days instead of years, but at the moment it seems like a trick so that you stay with them a whole year or you'll lose a year of NCD.
I agree about hydrogen cars, looks like they're almost there in terms of being a viable replacement for normal petrol/diesel cars. That money might be better spent investing directly in any UK car manufacturers that agree to use it solely to develop low emission cars, instead of a prize which will just line the pockets of the bosses of the biggest company.