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Well, funny you should say that - I have got photos of the job, so I'd love to make it into a guide - can you let me know what I need to do and where to place it?
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In Topic: Mondeo Mk4 Change Rear Wheel Bearings Hubs
15 January 2013 - 08:15 PM
In Topic: Mk4 Mondeo Rear Hub Change Help Please
16 December 2012 - 09:28 PM
Hi
Hope you don't mind my tagging this on to your question - when I was changing my rear hub it was always the 1st that came up on google. I have written an account of changing the rear hub on my Mondeo Mk4 TDCI Estate and it may help others:
Apart from the usual spanners and sockets, I used:
T55 1/2" socket (used a 1/4" and it snapped) the extra force allowed is helpful!
a ratchet extender - I used a steel pipe - this allowed me more control in a tight space.
Axle stand (so your jack can be used on the suspension if needed).
A bit of string - useful for tying the calliper in various places out of the way.
2x4 bit of wood a bit over 1 foot long
Brakes - there are plenty of blogs on brakes - check them! I removed the road wheel, loosened the disc securing screw with a T50, removed the calliper, pads and then the calliper holder - this was done without removing the handbrake cable or brake fluid hose. I removed the pads so I could easily remove the calliper past the lip worn in the disc. I tied the calliper out of the way with the string. I then removed the disc securing screw and removed the disc. this was stuck on so I gave it a whack with a wooden mallet and off it came.
Hub bearing - I needed to get better access as I was working from the side of the car, so I released the upper control arm from the hub carrier. This can be identified bolt going through a bush ion the hub carrier, control arm and holding bracket for the brake hose and cables. I used a trolley jack to hold the suspension in place and left it there throughout the hub removal and fitting process. Next I undid the top bolt on the anti-roll bar and let the suspension down using the jack.
Removing the star bolts was hard as they are hidden away, and I sheared the lesser 1/4" T55 socket - but with a new 1/2" T55, a short wrench extension and the steel tube on the handle, they eventually loosened .... relief....: a torch is handy to get a look at the bolts.
Refitting was a reverse of removal, but aligning the control arm with the hub carrier was hard - the jack came in handy, a spare pair of hands and a 2X4 bit of wood knocked in between the ground and the new hub to raise it. I'm sure there are better ways of doing this....
The job took about 3 hours for both sides and saved £100s.
Hope you don't mind my tagging this on to your question - when I was changing my rear hub it was always the 1st that came up on google. I have written an account of changing the rear hub on my Mondeo Mk4 TDCI Estate and it may help others:
Apart from the usual spanners and sockets, I used:
T55 1/2" socket (used a 1/4" and it snapped) the extra force allowed is helpful!
a ratchet extender - I used a steel pipe - this allowed me more control in a tight space.
Axle stand (so your jack can be used on the suspension if needed).
A bit of string - useful for tying the calliper in various places out of the way.
2x4 bit of wood a bit over 1 foot long
Brakes - there are plenty of blogs on brakes - check them! I removed the road wheel, loosened the disc securing screw with a T50, removed the calliper, pads and then the calliper holder - this was done without removing the handbrake cable or brake fluid hose. I removed the pads so I could easily remove the calliper past the lip worn in the disc. I tied the calliper out of the way with the string. I then removed the disc securing screw and removed the disc. this was stuck on so I gave it a whack with a wooden mallet and off it came.
Hub bearing - I needed to get better access as I was working from the side of the car, so I released the upper control arm from the hub carrier. This can be identified bolt going through a bush ion the hub carrier, control arm and holding bracket for the brake hose and cables. I used a trolley jack to hold the suspension in place and left it there throughout the hub removal and fitting process. Next I undid the top bolt on the anti-roll bar and let the suspension down using the jack.
Removing the star bolts was hard as they are hidden away, and I sheared the lesser 1/4" T55 socket - but with a new 1/2" T55, a short wrench extension and the steel tube on the handle, they eventually loosened .... relief....: a torch is handy to get a look at the bolts.
Refitting was a reverse of removal, but aligning the control arm with the hub carrier was hard - the jack came in handy, a spare pair of hands and a 2X4 bit of wood knocked in between the ground and the new hub to raise it. I'm sure there are better ways of doing this....
The job took about 3 hours for both sides and saved £100s.
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