Chris_B

As Title says, I'm planning on a timing belt & tensioner renewal on a 1998 1.25L Petrol Zetec engine, I have a Haynes manual for reference but unsure weather this is left handed.

Hi guys, 

 

Just changed the front wishbones on a relatives Mk4 Fiesta, took 2.5Hrs from wheels off to wheels back on.

 

The pattern parts used were First Line at £28 each,

 

New Shank bolt and Nyloc nuts were installed on the rear 'Rose' type bush,

 

But only used new Nyloc nut on the front O/S Pivot bush bolts but I cleaned up the front bolts on the wire wheel.

 

New Pinch bolts and Nyloc nuts were used on the hub carrier ball joints.

 

Getting the old wishbones out was easy, took 30mins to do both sides as i had an air impact wrench.

 

Upon fitting the O/S wishbone gave me a little trouble so i moved to the N/S, The N/S slotted in perfectly, I inserted the rear Rose bush bolt first and tightened gingerly, then i swung round the pivot bush round to its mounting  and inserted just the long bolt (Leaving the ball joint protector cup on) and this slotted in 1st time, Then inserted the ball joint pin.

 

I tightened the rear bush bolts first, then with the trolley jack, i applied upward force to the underside of the wishbones ball joint to push it into the hub further, then i inserted the pinch bolts and tightened this.

 

At this point, the rear wishbone bolts are done up (Not fully tight, just snug) and the pinch bolts tightened

 

With the front Pivot bush bolts loose I lowered the car (with road wheels fitted and lowered the wheels onto a single brick per side) and then I tightened the front Pivot bolts. I did this with the car's weight on so that i didn't stress and put the pivot bush into a bind causing premature failure. If i tightened the front pivot bolts without any load on the wishbone then when the car's weight is loaded onto the front wheels again then the pivot bush would twist and fail.

 

I'm a little concerned with some minor things however, The two front Pivot bolts I re-used, these are stretch bolts as I understand as they have a shank on them, but i used a new Nyloc nut on one side, but re-used and wire wheeled the nut and applied Loctite on the other side. But reffering to the Haynes manual, it just instructs to replace the Nyloc nuts.

 

I Tightened all bolts up with an impact wrench, i didn't set my impact wrench to kill, but i checked the tightness with atorque wrench after and it clicks immediately at 80Nm which suggest to me that they are in the region of 90Nm. I do the road wheel bolts up with the impact wrench and i have an idea of what torque it produces and in this case it seems a little bit over.

 

Any suggestions to the work I carried out is much appreciated.

 

Thank you for reading, Chris

Hi guys, 

 

Just changed the front wishbones on a relatives Mk4 Fiesta, took 2.5Hrs from wheels off to wheels back on.

 

The pattern parts used were First Line at £28 each,

 

New Shank bolt and Nyloc nuts were installed on the rear 'Rose' type bush,

 

But only used new Nyloc nut on the front O/S Pivot bush bolts but I cleaned up the front bolts on the wire wheel.

 

New Pinch bolts and Nyloc nuts were used on the hub carrier ball joints.

 

Getting the old wishbones out was easy, took 30mins to do both sides as i had an air impact wrench.

 

Upon fitting the O/S wishbone gave me a little trouble so i moved to the N/S, The N/S slotted in perfectly, I inserted the rear Rose bush bolt first and tightened gingerly, then i swung round the pivot bush round to its mounting  and inserted just the long bolt (Leaving the ball joint protector cup on) and this slotted in 1st time, Then inserted the ball joint pin.

 

I tightened the rear bush bolts first, then with the trolley jack, i applied upward force to the underside of the wishbones ball joint to push it into the hub further, then i inserted the pinch bolts and tightened this.

 

At this point, the rear wishbone bolts are done up (Not fully tight, just snug) and the pinch bolts tightened

 

With the front Pivot bush bolts loose I lowered the car (with road wheels fitted and lowered the wheels onto a single brick per side) and then I tightened the front Pivot bolts. I did this with the car's weight on so that i didn't stress and put the pivot bush into a bind causing premature failure. If i tightened the front pivot bolts without any load on the wishbone then when the car's weight is loaded onto the front wheels again then the pivot bush would twist and fail.

 

I'm a little concerned with some minor things however, The two front Pivot bolts I re-used, these are stretch bolts as I understand as they have a shank on them, but i used a new Nyloc nut on one side, but re-used and wire wheeled the nut and applied Loctite on the other side. But reffering to the Haynes manual, it just instructs to replace the Nyloc nuts.

 

I Tightened all bolts up with an impact wrench, i didn't set my impact wrench to kill, but i checked the tightness with a torque wrench after and it clicks immediately at 80Nm which suggest to me that they are in the region of 90Nm. I do the road wheel bolts up with the impact wrench and i have an idea of what torque it produces and in this case it seems a little bit over.

 

Any suggestions to the work I carried out is much appreciated.

 

Thank you for reading, Chris

Hi all, new to the forum,

Planning on changing the timing belt on 1998 1.25L Petrol Zetec engine.

Gathering tools and info at the moment and the info i have at the moment is as follows:

Bought Draper 61262 Camshaft/ Crankshaft locking tools, (Flat bar & TDC Crankshaft pin)
currently looking for flywheel locking tool for this engine,
currently looking for camshaft sprocket counter torque holding tool
considering on buying a Haynes manual for torque specs etc

As far as i know, the crankshaft sprocket is floating as well as the camshaft pulleys, So therefore i will need a torque wrench and an angular torque gauge for the crankshaft bolt, as well as for the camshaft pulleys.

I think i will need a flywheel locking tool for when i torque up the crankshaft bolt (without TDC locating pin inserted). I think i will also need a camshaft sprocket counter torque holding tool, (am i thinking its okay to leave the camshaft locking bar in place whilst using the camshaft holding tool?)

I have air tools to remove the crankshaft bolt as I've heard that it can be tough to get off.

And once i have fitted new belt, tightened all respective pulley bolts, align the tensioner to correct tension, then i rotate engine 2 revolutions then re-insert the timing tools to check.

Any comments or tips much appreciated.