Well my tensioner is knackered so phoned ford as didnt want a cheap rubbish 1 off ebay. Last spring lasted about 4k before rattling once more. Unbelievably,ford dealer wanted £200!!!!!!lol they said the price has just went up due to parts/manufacturers etc.
Came off the phone to them,then phoned jaguar in perth. Alan you're a star! £66.04 & VAT!!!
Exact same part as ford.even has the ford logo stamped on it. How can Ford treat their customers this way for gods sake?? Unreal
actually,i did my water thermostat at same time,but as it happens it didnt need doing as it opened/closed ok(but changed it anyway).\But the Oil stat DID need changing.It was partially open all the time.
could be your DMF knackered.when you're putting foot half way on clutch,it presses against the dmf & puts just enough pressure on it to hold it firmly(and then noise disappears)..hope Im wrong though. do you not feel it through clutch pedal(vibration when clutch engages/disengages).
could get the same type o noise with failing crank pulley as well though. its all to do with the torque/load going thru the aux system etc. cant you jack it up & have a listen underneath. you'll either hear it comin from 1 end or the other
I had a couple of cars that i thought the dmf went on,& it turned out to be the exhaust knocking underneath. worth a check.when its idling theres more movement so if exhausts near something,it'll rattle sometimes.
just read thru your post again.its hard to tell,but wonder if your clutch pressure plates ok. if it was your dmf I'd expect it to happen whether its cold or not,but metal behaves strangely at diff temps.
when its rattling,when you put your foot on clutch can you feel anything?(when it gets to biting point etc)
yes it does sound like synchro issue,but the 5 speed is supposed to be a better design of transmission. your synchro's are what help select a gear(it uses friction to enable the gears to engage). if it IS synchro issue,you'd be better putting it into get repaired,but make sure that the specialist preloads them properly or you'll get the same issue all over again. I bought 2 used gearboxes that both had same synchro problem. its always 1st/2nd gear syncs that go 1st cos theyre most used gears etc.
Now if your car has been driven with a slightly dragging clutch,which i DO think is possible due to your clutch pedal issue(master cylinder),then it degrades the said synchros much faster as the clutch cant stop input shaft spinning completely,& gears are hashed instead of synchronising.Hows your reverse gear? sometimes a hard 1st / reverse gear symptom can be a sign of a DMF going,but not always. The only way to tell is by removing gearbox opening it,& stripping it down.(very time consuming & specialist job).
All depends how much time and money you wanna spend. cant remember if your car has the linkage /cables etc. Have you tried adjusting the cable at gearbox end? you might have the box that needs the special tool thing though. worth a try though. there must be a guide somewhere online for doing it. Mines is just a case of putting into 4th gear at box(with the tower),getting someone to hold gearstick agains the stop in 4th position,then unsnap the clip on selector cable,then snap it back into place.and voila
Kudos to ya for trying then. Its not a complex system really though. Can only be either a problem at pedal,at release-bearing/slave,or pressure plate. Hope its not your clutch tho as quite expensive and labour intensive,unless you have access to a ramp.
ive just read over your post agin. i have a feeling you have 2 probs there. 1.your clutch pedal and 2. bad transmission prob. just noticed its a 2001 mondeo yeah? whats the mileage? if the cars been driven like that for a while it would take its toll on the synchros especially 1st and 2nd. are they the worst gears to select ?
I do plan to keep it for a few years yes. I also do like to get my hands dirty and acquire more knowledge regarding the mechanics one job at a time. Jobs i have done in the past on other cars include - oil sump change, New Rear shocker springs, exhaust system, Hand brake / rear drum / front disk brakes pads. The engine and transmission etc i havent got any working knowledge of though. I have a mechanic friend that will endeavour to help fix this problem and a couple of other niggles aswell.
I may just replace the slave cylinder for now depending on finances. A friend mentioned that there is a hose that connects the master cylinder to the slave cylinder, at least i think that's right (although im unsure of the exact steps). He plans to change this hose for a new one that also has a 'compensator' in the middle of it. We shall bleed the system this week perhaps and see what happens from there.
I plan to carry out all work myself though (with the aid of said friend) but i like to to be better prepared in my own mind going into the weekend.
Mate,this is a recipe for disaster if you dont mind me saying. forget about hoses etc. you need to check your master cylinder(behind pedal-any signs of fluid?),& bleed the hydraulics it 1st.If you dont know how the system works how are you going to know whats wrong? Dont rely on mates.I learned that the expensive way years ago.(and when it ALL goes wrong,you cant blame him cause he's a mate,& is only trying to help you). Take the car to someone that knows about clutches & has changed a lot o em. You'll save doe in the long run
Better still, save yourself £119.99, £140, or £210 - fit a solid, stainless steel EGR blanking plate (about a fiver)
Car pulls better with a little less turbo lag/ less flat spots, EGR housing and inlet manifold stays clean,(no carbon/ muck) and it does not matter if the EGR valve is faulty/ fails - car stays running
Only potential drawback is EML comes on on a Euro4 compliant engine, but that can be reset periodically with a code reader
utter rubbish. much better pull & less lag when the EGR is working well.
here we go again. had cars blanked in the past & the fuel consumptions worse after it. was at jaguar today ordering my EGR & another guy had a faulty egr last week & fitted a new one.while it was faulty he got 41mpg. new EGR fitted,he gets 52mpg.
honestly some folk on here are just asking for trouble. put it this way,when someone takes your lead/advice & damages their car,are you gonna pay for their court costs? the guy did the right thing & bought the part for his car. mate you need to stop filling folks heads with egr blanking/smf converting stuff.its gonna come back to bite ya
& how does it save a fortune? my egr is duff & im running at just over 41mpg as well. it was at average of 54.2 two days ago,before it went ti*s-up..
BTW I went back to First Diesel to pay bill and collect my key, and I asked how much to blank off the EGR. They replied they did that already otherwise I'd only be back again with the same problem in the future! On the one hand a bit cheeky blanking it off without asking, but on the other top service, and exactly what I wanted!
what year is your mondeo? pre 2004?
glad you got it fixed,but I wouldnt be too happy if a garage blanked mine off without asking. can you see the blanking plate? Im amazed theyd do that without permission tho
i still think youve got a burst/split hose. My MAP(NOT maf sensor) sensor was just a half mm loose at one end cos some idiot never screwed it back properly lol,& I had huge HP loss. screwed it down tightly & voila,back to pulling like a train(thats also where my smoke came about and the low circ egr fault/0405 came from.